International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献_第6页

Bacterial porphyrins in healthy skin: Microbiota components impact melanogenesis and age-related processes leading to Porphyr'ageing 健康皮肤中的细菌卟啉：微生物群成分影响黑色素生成和与年龄相关的过程，导致卟啉老化。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70014

Marie Meunier, Morgane De Tollenaere, Cyrille Jarrin, Emilie Chapuis, Marine Bracq, Laura Lapierre, Catherine Zanchetta, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera, Romain Reynaud

Objective

Porphyrins are ubiquitous metabolites and are constitutive of the bacterial metabolome of healthy skin. Their consideration has until now been limited to their pro-inflammatory activity in acne vulgaris. The present work suggests a new role for these molecules in the onset of skin ageing.

Methods

A mixture of coproporphyrin III and protoporphyrin IX, representative of skin microbiota metabolites, was defined and applied in different skin models. Finally, an in vivo study was conducted to determine the association between porphyrin's abundance and ageing signs.

Results

Bacterial porphyrins penetrated stratum corneum and reached living epidermal cells. The porphyrin mixture increased IL-8, ROS and melanin contents. Porphyrin-induced melanin synthesis appeared to be regulated by translocator protein TSPO/PBR. In fibroblasts, bacterial metabolites down-regulated a set of transcripts involved in extracellular matrix architecture and associated with ageing, which was confirmed by a decrease of type I pro-collagen. Finally, the clinical study established positive and significant correlations between porphyrin abundance and the severity of ageing signs, including invisible spots, brown spots and wrinkles length.

Conclusion

In summary, porphyrins could play unexpected roles in skin's premature ageing process, a phenomenon we propose to call Porphyr'ageing, that promotes hyperpigmentation, inflammation, oxidative stress and fibroblast cell ageing, leading to dermal matrix weakening.

目的：卟啉是普遍存在的代谢产物，是健康皮肤细菌代谢组的组成部分。到目前为止，他们的考虑仅限于他们对寻常痤疮的促炎活性。目前的研究表明，这些分子在皮肤老化过程中起着新的作用。方法：定义具有代表性的皮肤微生物代谢物coproporphyrin III和protoporphyrin IX的混合物，并应用于不同的皮肤模型。最后，进行了一项体内研究，以确定卟啉的丰度与衰老迹象之间的关系。结果：细菌卟啉能穿透角质层到达活表皮细胞。卟啉混合物增加了IL-8、ROS和黑色素含量。卟啉诱导的黑色素合成似乎受转运蛋白TSPO/PBR的调控。在成纤维细胞中，细菌代谢物下调了一组与细胞外基质结构相关并与衰老相关的转录物，这被I型前胶原蛋白的减少所证实。最后，临床研究建立了卟啉丰度与衰老迹象的严重程度，包括隐形斑、褐斑和皱纹长度之间的正相关和显著相关。结论：综上所述，卟啉在皮肤的过早衰老过程中发挥了意想不到的作用，我们将这种现象称为卟啉老化，它促进色素沉着、炎症、氧化应激和成纤维细胞老化，导致真皮基质减弱。

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引用次数: 0

Development of a lip colour chart across four ethnicities 开发四个种族的唇色图表。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70004

Zoé Charton, Héloïse Vergnaud, Laurence Caisey, David Blumenthal, Michael Ma, Anthony Shi, Virginie Couturaud, Tony Xu, Eléonore Loescher

In the human face, the lips play a key role in social interactions and are a major element of makeup strategies. However, the amount of data available on lips, particularly relating to colour, is limited in comparison to that on skin. To gain a better understanding of lip colour, this study aimed to assess its diversity across four ethnicities (Asian Chinese, African American, Hispanic American and Caucasian American and French). The final objective was to develop a lip colour chart to guide cosmetic product development. A total of 514 women aged from 19 to 68 years were recruited in the USA, France and China. Their natural lower lip colour was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace® (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France). The data showed a large variety in lip colour between and within each ethnicity. Important overlaps were found between ethnic groups, particularly and surprisingly between Hispanic and Asian women. This allowed for the development of a lip colour chart composed of 53 lip tones, based upon lightness and hue, as a global reference guide for lip colour assessment. Hispanic women showed the largest diversity, represented in 32 of the chart tones. The present study revealed a large lip colour diversity across four ethnic groups. The inter-group overlaps demonstrate that lip colour is not solely defined by individual ethnic belonging. The 53 lip tones described here could be used as target shades to create more inclusive nude lipsticks in the near future.

在人类的脸上，嘴唇在社交互动中起着关键作用，也是化妆策略的主要元素。然而，与皮肤的数据相比，关于嘴唇的数据，尤其是与颜色有关的数据，是有限的。为了更好地理解唇色，本研究旨在评估四个种族（亚裔华人、非裔美国人、西班牙裔美国人、白种人美国人和法国人）唇色的多样性。最终目标是制定一个唇色图表，以指导化妆品的开发。在美国、法国和中国共招募了514名年龄从19岁到68岁的女性。使用全脸高光谱成像系统SpectraFace®（Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France）测量他们的自然下唇颜色。数据显示，每个种族之间和种族内部的唇色差异很大。在不同种族之间发现了重要的重叠，尤其是在西班牙裔和亚裔女性之间。这使得基于明度和色调的53种唇色组成的唇色图表得以发展，作为唇色评估的全球参考指南。西班牙裔女性表现出最大的多样性，在32种图表音调中都有体现。目前的研究表明，四个种族的唇色差异很大。族群间的重叠表明，唇色并不仅仅是由个人的种族归属所决定的。在不久的将来，这里描述的53种唇色可以用作目标色调，以创造更具包容性的裸色唇膏。

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引用次数: 0

New alternatives in photoprotection: Preparation and evaluation of lamellar silicate derivatives and their use as sunscreens 光防护的新替代品：层状硅酸盐衍生物的制备和评价及其作为防晒霜的应用。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70008

Daniel Mabundu Kibwila, Alice Simon, Letícia Coli Louvisse de Abreu, Carlos Rangel Rodrigues, Valeria Pereira de Sousa, Marcelo de Pádula, Lucio Mendes Cabral

Objective

The objective of this work is to investigate different sunscreens and Viscogel group organoclays for the preparation of new intercalated sunscreens to improve the effectiveness and safety in photoprotection using new approach methodology (NAMs).

Methods

For this study, we examined Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), Bemotrizinol (BEMT) and Viscogel S4®, S7®, and B8® using a set of Saccharomyces cerevisiae mutant strains that are sensitive to UVA, UVB and Solar Simulated Light (SSL) to evaluate their photoprotective and mutagenic potential. Additionally, we developed delaminated nanocomposites by chemical intercalation reactions followed by ultrasonic treatment to enhance clay exfoliation. These nanocomposites were then characterized using X-ray Powder Diffraction (XRPD), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA) and Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS).

Results

As a function of photoprotective action and safety, the combination of Viscogel S4® and OMC filter was chosen for nanocomposite development. Our results evidenced the intercalation of the OMC in the organoclay (S4 + OMC-NC). Survival and mutagenesis tests indicated a positive effect of the formulation, as it increased cell survival to SSL, even without reducing mutagenesis, while its respective physical mixture was unable to provide antimutagenic protection.

Conclusion

S4 + OMC-NC showed promising results for photoprotection, offering cellular protection combined with antimutagenic effects upon SSL exposure. This formulation enables prospects for the preparation of new, effective and safe photoprotective formulations.

目的：利用新方法（NAMs）研究不同防晒剂和粘胶基有机粘土制备新型插层防晒剂，以提高其光防护的有效性和安全性。方法：利用一组对UVA、UVB和太阳模拟光（SSL）敏感的酵母突变菌株，对二乙胺羟基苯甲酰己基苯甲酸酯（DHHB）、甲氧基肉桂酸辛基（OMC）、Bemotrizinol （BEMT）和粘胶S4®、S7®和B8®进行检测，评价其光保护和诱变潜力。此外，我们通过化学插层反应和超声波处理来开发分层纳米复合材料，以增强粘土的剥落。然后用x射线粉末衍射（XRPD）、差示扫描量热法（DSC）、热重分析（TGA）和动态光散射（DLS）对这些纳米复合材料进行了表征。结果：由于具有光防护作用和安全性，选择了粘胶S4®和OMC过滤器的组合进行纳米复合材料的开发。我们的结果证明了OMC在有机黏土中的插层作用（S4 + OMC- nc）。存活和诱变试验表明，该配方具有积极作用，因为即使不减少诱变，它也能增加细胞对SSL的存活，而其各自的物理混合物无法提供抗诱变保护。结论：S4 + OMC-NC具有良好的光保护效果，在SSL照射下具有细胞保护和抗诱变作用。该配方为制备新的、有效的、安全的光防护配方提供了前景。

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引用次数: 0

Key locations of oxidative damage in human hair keratins after heat and ultraviolet light exposure 高温和紫外线照射后人体头发角蛋白氧化损伤的关键部位。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13081

Jeffrey E. Plowman, Anita J. Grosvenor, Santanu Deb-Choudhury, Fraser Bell, Julie Roberts, Stefan Clerens

Objective

This study investigated the locations of amino acid modifications within two major human hair keratins (Type I K31 and Type II K85) with probable implications for protein and hair structural component integrity. The particular focus was on cysteine modifications that disrupt intra-protein and inter-protein disulphide bonds.

Methods

Human hair was exposed to accelerated, sequential heat or UV treatments, simulating effects resulting from the use of heated styling tools and environmental exposure over a time frame approximating one year. The proteins were extracted and detected using LC–MS/MS and identified by matching to protein databases. The sites of disulphide-disrupting amino acid residue modifications were mapped to known structural domains of the keratins.

Results

Disulphide bond-disrupting cysteine modifications (formation of cysteic acid and dehydroalanine) arose in K31 and K85 after treatments with UV and with heat. These modifications were mapped to both the relatively amorphous (head) regions of the keratins, which bind with keratin-associated proteins, and the more structured coil regions, which bind to other keratins.

Conclusion

These data provide confirmation that heat- and UV-induced disulphide bond disruption resulted in post-translational modifications that are crucial for secondary structural interactions, the loss of which has the potential to affect the loss of structural integrity observed in human hair after the use of repeated styling processes or prolonged weathering from sunlight exposure.

目的：本研究研究了两种主要的人类头发角蛋白（I型K31和II型K85）中氨基酸修饰的位置，这可能对蛋白质和头发结构成分的完整性有影响。特别关注的是半胱氨酸修饰，破坏蛋白质内和蛋白质间的二硫键。方法：将人的头发暴露在加速的、连续的加热或紫外线处理中，模拟使用加热造型工具和环境暴露在大约一年的时间内所产生的效果。采用LC-MS/MS提取和检测蛋白质，并与蛋白质数据库进行比对鉴定。二硫化物破坏氨基酸残基修饰的位点被映射到角蛋白的已知结构域。结果：K31和K85在紫外线和高温处理后出现了破坏二硫键的半胱氨酸修饰（半胱酸和脱氢丙氨酸的形成）。这些修饰被映射到角蛋白的相对无定形（头部）区域，它与角蛋白相关蛋白结合，以及更结构化的线圈区域，它与其他角蛋白结合。结论：这些数据证实，热和紫外线诱导的二硫化物键破坏导致翻译后修饰，这对二级结构相互作用至关重要，二级结构相互作用的丧失有可能影响在使用重复定型过程或长时间暴露于阳光下后观察到的人类头发结构完整性的丧失。

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引用次数: 0

Correction to International Journal of Cosmetic Science: Volume 47, Issue 4 修正国际化妆品科学杂志：第47卷，第4期

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-08 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70022

The image caption on the cover of Volume 47, Issue 4 was incorrect.

It should have been:

Keratin liposomes for the recovery of photo-damaged hair

We apologize for this error.

第47卷第4期封面上的图片说明不正确。它应该是：修复光损伤头发的角蛋白脂质体我们为这个错误道歉。

引用次数: 0

Bioretinoids from microalgae: Boosting retinol performance and tolerability 来自微藻的类生物维生素a：提高视黄醇性能和耐受性。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70027

Silvia Sánchez-Díez, Alexandre Lapeyre, Noemí García-Delgado, Jordi Ayats

Objective

Skin ageing, hyperpigmentation, and texture are common dermatological concerns. Retinoids, including retinol, are widely used for their efficacy in treating these conditions. However, their side effects, such as irritation, often limit their use. Bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinoid alternative, has gained attention for its gentler profile, but its efficacy remains a subject of comparison with traditional retinoids. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a novel microalgae-derived bioretinoid (MBR) in comparison to retinol and bakuchiol in promoting skin regeneration, reducing ageing signs, and addressing hyperpigmentation.

Methods

The effects of MBR were evaluated in vitro for cell proliferation, melanin production, and extracellular matrix modulation. Clinically, MBR was applied to assess improvements in skin texture, firmness, elasticity, and pigmentation compared with reference treatments.

Results

In vitro, MBR significantly outperformed both retinol and bakuchiol in cell proliferation, melanin reduction, and ECM modulation. In vivo, MBR improved skin texture, firmness, and pigmentation, showing results comparable to retinol. MBR also synergistically enhanced retinol's effects, improving hydration and reducing irritation.

Conclusion

MBR is a promising alternative to traditional retinoids, offering enhanced efficacy in skin regeneration and pigmentation control with a more favourable safety profile, especially when combined with retinol.

目的：皮肤老化，色素沉着和纹理是常见的皮肤病学问题。类维生素a，包括视黄醇，因其治疗这些疾病的功效而被广泛使用。然而，它们的副作用，如刺激，往往限制了它们的使用。Bakuchiol是一种植物衍生的类维甲酸替代品，因其温和的特性而受到关注，但其功效仍然是与传统类维甲酸进行比较的主题。本研究的目的是评估一种新型微藻衍生的生物类维甲酸（MBR）在促进皮肤再生、减少衰老迹象和解决色素沉着方面的功效，与视黄醇和bakuchiol进行比较。方法：体外观察MBR对细胞增殖、黑色素生成和细胞外基质调节的影响。在临床上，与参考治疗相比，MBR应用于评估皮肤质地、紧致度、弹性和色素沉着的改善。结果：在体外，MBR在细胞增殖、黑色素减少和ECM调节方面明显优于视黄醇和bakuchiol。在体内，MBR改善了皮肤质地、紧致度和色素沉着，其结果与视黄醇相当。MBR还协同增强视黄醇的作用，改善水合作用，减少刺激。结论：MBR是一种很有前景的替代传统类维生素a的方法，在皮肤再生和色素沉着控制方面具有更强的功效，并且更有利的安全性，特别是与视黄醇联合使用时。

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引用次数: 0

Recovery effects of various skin lipid components and their structural derivatives on skin barrier damage 各种皮肤脂质成分及其结构衍生物对皮肤屏障损伤的恢复作用。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70023

Sang Gwon Seo, Tae Geun Kwon, Ji Won Ha, Jooyoung Oh, Moon Joo Kim, Sohyun In

Objective

Skin lipids, such as ceramides (CERs), play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier. Although the benefits of CERs are well known, few studies have investigated the effects of other skin lipid components on the skin barrier. Therefore, this study compared the efficacy of several skin lipid components and their structural derivatives, including CERs, on the skin barrier.

Methods

The water-holding capacity and occlusion factor were determined to evaluate the moisture barrier and sealing effects, respectively, of creams containing various skin lipid components. A human study using sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) to induce skin damage was also conducted to explore skin barrier recovery. Epidermal thickness and density were measured using an ultrasonic instrument.

Results

The cream containing behenic acid (BA) had the best water-holding capacity, and the creams with CER and BA significantly increased the occlusion factor. The BA-containing cream had a cubic structural pattern in the small-angle X-ray scattering analysis, which may explain the high occlusion factor. In SDS-damaged skin, transepidermal water loss recovered significantly faster in skin areas treated with cream containing BA and CER compared with non-treated skin.

Conclusion

This study compares the skin barrier recovery effects of skin lipid components, demonstrating that BA elicits a high skin barrier recovery effect similar to that of CER, which has known efficacy. BA also had an excellent sealing effect through lipid packaging, whereas CER had a combined sealing effect and increased the epidermal thickness and density. These results provide foundational evidence for formulating products that help restore the skin barrier by supplying lipids to the skin surface.

目的：神经酰胺（CERs）等皮肤脂质在维持皮肤屏障中起重要作用。虽然cer的益处是众所周知的，但很少有研究调查其他皮肤脂质成分对皮肤屏障的影响。因此，本研究比较了几种皮肤脂质成分及其结构衍生物（包括cer）对皮肤屏障的作用。方法：测定不同脂质成分面霜的保水性和封闭系数，分别评价其保湿效果和封闭效果。使用十二烷基硫酸钠（SDS）诱导皮肤损伤的人体研究也进行了探讨皮肤屏障恢复。用超声仪测定表皮厚度和密度。结果：含褪黑酸（BA）的乳膏保水能力最好，含CER和BA的乳膏明显增加了闭塞因子。在小角度x射线散射分析中，含ba乳膏呈立方结构，这可能是高遮挡因子的原因。在sds损伤的皮肤中，与未处理的皮肤相比，使用含有BA和CER的乳膏处理的皮肤区域经皮失水恢复明显更快。结论：本研究比较了皮肤脂质成分的皮肤屏障恢复效果，表明BA具有与CER相似的高皮肤屏障恢复效果，具有已知的功效。BA通过脂质包装也具有良好的密封效果，而CER具有复合密封效果，增加了表皮厚度和密度。这些结果为配方产品提供了基础证据，这些产品通过向皮肤表面提供脂质来帮助恢复皮肤屏障。

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引用次数: 0

Influence of anionic surfactants on coacervation with cationic guar gum for hair care applications 阴离子表面活性剂对护发用阳离子瓜尔胶凝聚的影响。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70025

Gael Alexander López-Sucilla, Sergio Alberto Bernal-Chávez

Objective

To assess the impact of anionic surfactants on the formation of coacervates with cationic guar gum and their subsequent effects on hair care.

Methods

Coacervates were prepared using ionic precipitation techniques involving four anionic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SNL), sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (SLSA), sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) and cationic guar gum. Viscosity, spreadability and stickiness sensory analysis were conducted with a panel of volunteers. The coacervates were freeze-dried, and their physicochemical properties were analysed using Raman and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and thermogravimetric analysis.

Results

Coacervate formation and stability were dependent on the CGG-to-surfactant ratio, with 0.5% CGG/0.5% surfactant producing the most stable, uniform structures. Spectroscopic analyses confirmed stronger electrostatic and hydrogen bonding interactions at higher CGG concentrations, facilitating greater polymer-surfactant integration. Thermal analysis showed that balanced CGG/surfactant ratios enhanced coacervate stability, while excess surfactant led to lower thermal resistance and weaker deposition. SEM images revealed superior adhesion and homogeneous coverage on damaged hair fibres at 0.5% CGG/0.5% surfactant, suggesting better conditioning effects compared to lower polymer content.

Conclusion

The findings emphasize that coacervate stability, deposition efficiency and adhesion to hair fibres are optimized when CGG and surfactants are present in balanced ratios. The 0.5% CGG/0.5% surfactant formulation consistently exhibited superior stability, coverage and interaction with damaged hair, reinforcing its potential as an effective conditioning and protective system. These insights provide a foundation for improving coacervate-based hair care formulations, ensuring enhanced performance and long-term benefits.

目的：探讨阴离子表面活性剂对瓜尔胶与阳离子瓜尔胶凝聚形成的影响及其对护发的影响。方法：采用离子沉淀法，采用四种阴离子表面活性剂：月桂基硫酸钠（SLS）、月桂基肌酸钠（SNL）、月桂基硫乙酸钠（SLSA）、椰油基异硫酸钠（SCI）和阳离子瓜尔胶制备凝聚体。对一组志愿者进行了粘度、铺展性和粘性感官分析。用拉曼光谱、傅里叶变换红外光谱、扫描电镜和热重分析等方法分析了凝聚体的理化性质。结果：聚簇的形成和稳定性取决于CGG与表面活性剂的比例，0.5% CGG/0.5%表面活性剂的聚簇结构最稳定、均匀。光谱分析证实，在较高的CGG浓度下，静电和氢键相互作用更强，促进了聚合物与表面活性剂的结合。热分析表明，平衡的CGG/表面活性剂比例增强了凝聚稳定性，而过量的表面活性剂导致热阻降低，沉积减弱。SEM图像显示，在0.5% CGG/0.5%表面活性剂的情况下，损伤的头发纤维具有较好的粘附性和均匀覆盖，表明与低聚合物含量相比，调节效果更好。结论：CGG和表面活性剂以平衡比例存在时，凝聚稳定性、沉积效率和对毛纤维的粘附性均得到优化。0.5% CGG/0.5%表面活性剂配方始终表现出优异的稳定性，覆盖范围和与受损头发的相互作用，增强了其作为有效调理和保护系统的潜力。这些见解为改进基于凝聚体的护发配方提供了基础，确保提高性能和长期效益。

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引用次数: 0

Strengthening benefits of panthenol for hair: Mechanistic evidence from advanced spectroscopic techniques 泛醇对头发的强化益处：来自先进光谱技术的机理证据。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70024

Jennifer M. Marsh, Scott Cron, Tian Chen, Allison Talley, Shane Whitaker, Haibo Jiang, Kai Xue

Objective

Small molecules, like panthenol have been shown to penetrate hair. However, their interactions with the protein structures of hair have not been well studied. In this study, the penetration of panthenol into protein structures of hair was confirmed, and NMR methods were utilized to understand the protein–panthenol interaction. This interaction is likely the source of the tensile strength benefits measured with panthenol for hair.

Methods

Cross-sections of hair treated with deuterium-labelled panthenol were studied using NanoSIMS to visualize the location of panthenol within hair. Solid-state NMR (both ¹H–¹³C and ¹H–²H) was employed to measure panthenol interactions inside hair using deuterium-labelled panthenol. Stress/strain curves—where stress is defined as average force per unit area—were measured for hair treated with and without panthenol to generate tensile strength data.

Results

Penetration of panthenol into hair was demonstrated, with images indicating specific penetration into cortical protein regions. NMR results from various experiments provided evidence of direct interaction between the N–H of panthenol and protein aromatic side chains. A ‘shared’ proton was identified between panthenol and hair proteins, indicating spatial proximity and interaction. Break stress and elastic modulus of hair treated with panthenol were higher than those of control hair, suggesting that bonds—likely hydrogen bonds—were formed between panthenol and hair.

Conclusion

Panthenol can deliver tensile strength benefits to hair. This benefit is proposed to result from hydrogen bonds formed between panthenol and hair proteins.

目的：像泛醇这样的小分子已经被证明可以穿透头发。然而，它们与头发蛋白质结构的相互作用还没有得到很好的研究。在本研究中，证实了泛醇对头发蛋白质结构的渗透，并利用NMR方法了解了蛋白质-泛醇的相互作用。这种相互作用很可能是泛醇对头发抗拉强度有益的来源。方法：利用NanoSIMS对经氘标记的泛醇处理过的头发的横截面进行研究，以显示泛醇在头发中的位置。采用固体核磁共振（1H-13C和1H-2H）测量头发内氘标记的泛醇相互作用。应力/应变曲线——其中应力被定义为单位面积的平均力——测量了用和不用泛醇处理的头发，以产生抗拉强度数据。结果：证实了泛醇对头发的渗透，图像显示了对皮层蛋白质区域的特异性渗透。各种实验的核磁共振结果提供了泛醇的N-H与蛋白质芳香侧链之间直接相互作用的证据。在泛醇和毛发蛋白之间发现了一个“共享”质子，表明空间接近和相互作用。用泛醇处理过的头发的断裂应力和弹性模量比对照组的头发要高，这表明泛醇和头发之间形成了键——很可能是氢键。结论：泛醇可以提高头发的抗拉强度。这种益处被认为是由于泛醇和头发蛋白之间形成的氢键。

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引用次数: 0

Sunscreen sensory attribute prediction via textural, rheological and tribological tests 通过纹理、流变学和摩擦学测试预测防晒霜的感官属性。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70021

Günel Nabiyeva, Baran Teoman, Andrei Potanin, Gennady Y. Gor

This study aims to find the quick ways to predict sensorial attributes of sunscreens using instrumental measurements. We specifically focus on the attributes most relevant to consumer ‘liking’ and the easiest measurements to implement in industrial labs for product development. Of the latter, we consider three types of measurements: emulative ‘textural’ tests typically performed with a texture analyser as well as rheological and tribological measurements. Textural tests are generally preferred but may be paralleled by rheological measurements provided they are implementable on simple viscometers used in industry (albeit with additional data processing). We found that both textural and simple rheological/viscometrical tests work well for predicting sensorial attributes about flow before (thickness) and during (spreadability) application of the products. Tribology provides useful additional information for the latter but is primarily useful for after-feel or residue attributes (absorption and skin stickiness). These findings show that simple lab tests relying on these techniques can predict human sensory attributes, thus efficiently guide product developers while reducing the need for costly and time-consuming panel studies.

本研究旨在通过仪器测量，找到快速预测防晒霜感官属性的方法。我们特别关注与消费者“喜欢”最相关的属性，以及最容易在工业实验室实施的产品开发测量。对于后者，我们考虑了三种类型的测量：模拟“纹理”测试，通常使用纹理分析仪进行，以及流变学和摩擦学测量。纹理测试通常是首选，但也可以与流变测量并行，前提是它们可以在工业中使用的简单粘度计上实现（尽管需要额外的数据处理）。我们发现，质地和简单的流变/粘度测试都可以很好地预测产品应用前（厚度）和应用期间（涂抹性）的流动感官属性。摩擦学为后者提供了有用的附加信息，但主要用于后感或残留属性（吸收和皮肤粘性）。这些发现表明，依靠这些技术的简单实验室测试可以预测人类的感官属性，从而有效地指导产品开发人员，同时减少对昂贵和耗时的面板研究的需要。

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