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Antioxidative and chaperone-like activities of a bacterioruberin-rich extract: An innovative approach to protect the skin proteome. 富含细菌红蛋白提取物的抗氧化和伴侣样活性:一种保护皮肤蛋白质组的创新方法。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-21 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70032
Julie C Tisserand, François-Xavier Pellay, Nicolas Lecland, Arnaud Fontbonne, Félix Giraud, Eric Perrier, Sandra Trompezinski, Isabelle Benoit

Objective: Oxidative stress and its induced protein alterations are instrumental in the early onset and progression of ageing. To protect the skin proteome, we evaluated the extract of a bacterium isolated from snowflakes (Arthrobacter agilis). This Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE) has been found to be rich in bacterioruberins, C-50 unsaturated carotenoids with potent antioxidative properties.

Methods: The Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE), having protective effect against oxidative, saline, and heat stresses, was evaluated in tubo. Protection against protein carbonylation was assessed in human primary keratinocytes and skin explants subjected to various stresses. The impact of an AAE-containing cream on protein carbonylation was analysed on the face of 23 smokers after 28 days.

Results: In tubo, AAE protects alkaline phosphatase against oxidative and heat stresses, increasing the temperature at which BSA is denatured. It also partially prevented elastin aggregation induced by a salt stress. In human primary keratinocytes exposed to UV, particulate matter (PM), or blue light, AAE reduced protein carbonylation, a marker of oxidative stress in the proteome. When formulated in creams, topical applications prevent protein carbonylation in the epidermis and dermis of skin explants co-exposed to UV and PM. Furthermore, after 28 days of application, protein carbonylation was reduced in the upper skin layers of smokers.

Conclusions: AAE protects the proteome against oxidative stress via a dual mode of action: antioxidant and chaperone-like activities (as demonstrated by protection against heat and salt). AAE is a promising age-management compound that safeguards the fragile skin ecosystem in an ecobiological approach, protecting the effectors of healthy skin functioning and reinforcing natural defences when overwhelmed.

目的:氧化应激及其诱导的蛋白质改变在衰老的早期发生和进展中起重要作用。为了保护皮肤蛋白质组,我们评估了从雪花中分离的一种细菌的提取物(关节杆菌)。这种灵巧节杆菌提取物(AAE)已被发现富含细菌蛋白,C-50不饱和类胡萝卜素,具有有效的抗氧化特性。方法:对关节杆菌提取物(AAE)在氧化应激、生理盐水应激和热应激中的保护作用进行体外评价。在不同的应激条件下,评估了人原代角质形成细胞和皮肤外植体对蛋白质羰基化的保护作用。研究人员分析了含有aae的面霜对23名吸烟者面部蛋白质羰基化的影响。结果:AAE可以保护碱性磷酸酶免受氧化和热应激,提高牛血清白蛋白变性的温度。它还部分阻止了盐胁迫引起的弹性蛋白聚集。在暴露于紫外线、颗粒物(PM)或蓝光下的人原代角质形成细胞中,AAE降低了蛋白质组中氧化应激的标志物——蛋白质羰基化。当在面霜中配制时,局部应用可防止皮肤外植体共同暴露于紫外线和PM的表皮和真皮层中的蛋白质羰化。此外,施用28天后,吸烟者上层皮肤的蛋白质羰基化减少。结论:AAE通过双重作用模式保护蛋白质组免受氧化应激:抗氧化和伴侣样活性(如对热和盐的保护)。AAE是一种很有前途的年龄管理化合物,以生态生物学的方式保护脆弱的皮肤生态系统,保护健康皮肤功能的效应,并在不堪重负时加强自然防御。
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引用次数: 0
Plant-based ingredients in cosmetic science: Current applications, limitations, and prospects. 化妆品科学中的植物成分:目前的应用、限制和前景。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-20 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70034
Anwesha Bandyopadhyay, Susai Arul Selvan, Poonam K Patial, Tarun Pal

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a paradigm shift as consumers increasingly seek sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. This shift has led to a resurgence of interest in natural products, perceived as healthier and environmentally responsible. This review critically explores the integration of plant-based ingredients into cosmetic formulations, outlining their bioactivities, safety considerations, and industry implications. By systematically analysing reviewed evidence and market data, the review identifies current applications, emerging opportunities, and research gaps in skincare, haircare, perfumery, oral care, and lip care sectors. In different cosmeceutical care, natural products like Aloe vera, Matricaria recutita, Camellia sinensis, Ziziphus spina-christi, Lemna minor, Annona muricata and various other plant extracts contribute to overall oral hygiene and lip health. Due to the escalating demand for sustainable beauty materials, this review finds major outcome of plant-based ingredients in shaping the future of cosmetic innovations worldwide.

随着消费者越来越多地寻求可持续和环保的替代品,化妆品行业正在经历范式转变。这种转变导致人们对天然产品的兴趣重新抬头,人们认为天然产品更健康、更环保。这篇综述批判性地探讨了植物性成分与化妆品配方的整合,概述了它们的生物活性、安全性考虑和工业影响。通过系统分析已审查的证据和市场数据,该审查确定了护肤、护发、香水、口腔护理和唇部护理部门的当前应用、新出现的机会和研究差距。在不同的药妆护理中,天然产品如芦荟、苦参、山茶花、酸枣、小柠檬、番荔枝和各种其他植物提取物有助于整体口腔卫生和嘴唇健康。由于对可持续美容材料的需求不断增加,本综述发现植物性成分在塑造全球化妆品创新未来方面的主要成果。
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引用次数: 0
Perceptions of female age, health and attractiveness vary with systematic hair manipulations. 人们对女性年龄、健康状况和吸引力的看法随着系统化的头发处理而变化。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-20 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70028
Susanne Will, Mandy Beckmann, Kristina Kunstmann, Julia Kerschbaumer, Yu Lum Loh, Samuel Stofel, Paul J Matts, Todd K Shackelford, Bernhard Fink

Objective: Research on female facial attractiveness has focused on the effects of face shape and skin condition. Few studies have investigated the impact of hair on assessments of female attractiveness. Research using images of computer-generated (rendered) hair has demonstrated that subtle variations in hair thickness, density and style affect perceptions of female age, health and attractiveness.

Method: The current study consisted of two experiments in which non-expert female panellists viewed distinct expressions of specific hair features and judged them for age, health and attractiveness. In Experiment 1, women from three countries (Germany, Spain and USA; n = 500 each) judged high-shine and low-shine versions of natural Caucasian hair wigs on a female target-photographed from right back (3/4 view)-for age, health and attractiveness. In Experiment 2, professional stylists manipulated shine, alignment and volume of natural Caucasian hair wigs, creating two versions-one high and one low in each feature-for blonde hair and brown hair. A woman with light skin pigmentation wore the wigs and was photographed in three head orientations under controlled lighting conditions. Omnibus pairwise combinations of hair conditions were created and judged by n = 2000 US women for age, health and attractiveness.

Results: Experiment 1 showed that, across countries, high-shine hair was rated more youthful, healthier and attractive than low-shine hair. Experiment 2 indicated that straight-aligned hair was perceived as most youthful, healthy and attractive, regardless of hair colour and head orientation. High shine also was preferred, although its impact was weaker than that of hair alignment.

Conclusion: Straight-aligned hair, together with shine, affects female appearance and this influence is noticeable even with small (mobile phone-sized) images.

目的:对女性面部吸引力的研究主要集中在脸型和皮肤状况的影响上。很少有研究调查头发对评估女性吸引力的影响。利用计算机生成(渲染)的头发图像进行的研究表明,头发厚度、密度和发型的细微变化会影响人们对女性年龄、健康和吸引力的看法。方法:目前的研究包括两个实验,其中非专业女性小组成员观察特定头发特征的不同表达,并根据年龄、健康和吸引力来判断他们。在实验1中,来自三个国家(德国、西班牙和美国,每个国家各有500名女性)的女性根据年龄、健康状况和吸引力来判断一个女性目标戴的高亮度和低亮度的天然白种人假发——照片从右背(3/4视图)拍摄。在实验二中,专业的发型师对天然白种人假发的光泽、排列和体积进行了调整,为金发和棕色头发制作了两个版本——每个特征高一个低。一名肤色较浅的女性戴着假发,在受控的照明条件下以三个头部方向拍照。研究人员对2000名美国女性的头发状况进行了综合两两组合,并根据年龄、健康状况和吸引力进行了评判。结果:实验1显示,在各个国家,高光泽头发被认为比低光泽头发更年轻、更健康、更有吸引力。实验2表明,直发被认为是最年轻、健康和有吸引力的,无论头发颜色和头部朝向如何。高光泽也是首选,尽管它的影响比头发排列弱。结论:直发和光泽会影响女性的形象,即使是小(手机大小)的照片,这种影响也很明显。
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引用次数: 0
The skin hydration and anti-ageing benefits of Ectoine, achieved through enhanced Src-ERK-mediated HAS-2 and JNK-driven AQP-3 expression in human keratinocytes, along with the inhibition of MMP-1-induced collagen-I degradation in human fibroblasts, both with and without UVB irradiation. 通过增强src - erk介导的ha -2和jnk驱动的AQP-3在人角质形成细胞中的表达,以及抑制mmp -1诱导的人成纤维细胞中胶原-i降解,在UVB照射和不照射下,Ectoine的皮肤水合和抗衰老作用得以实现。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-20 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70036
Po-Yuan Wu, Jhih-Hsuan Hseu, Ying-Ru Chen, Sudhir Pandey, Siang-Jyun Chen, Hsin-Ling Yang, You-Cheng Hseu

Objective: We investigated skin hydration and anti-ageing efficacies of Ectoine, a natural bacterial osmolyte, utilising human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (Hs68) cells under non- or UVB (30 mJ/cm2) exposure.

Methods: We incorporated various experimental techniques, including MTT assay (cell viability), small interfering RNA (siRNA) transfection, and immunoblotting analysis, to assess the molecular mechanisms of skin hydration and anti-ageing efficacies of Ectoine.

Results: The findings exhibited that Ectoine improved cell viability in the presence or absence of UVB exposure in HaCaT cells. Ectoine upregulated Src and HAS-2 expression in the presence or absence of UVB irradiation in HaCaT cells. Src knockdown reduced Ectoine-increased HAS-2 expression, implying that Ectoine provoked Src-mediated HAS-2 expression in the presence of or without UVB irradiation in HaCaT cells. Ectoine enhanced phosphorylated-ERK expression in a time- and dose-dependent manner in HaCaT cells. In addition, Ectoine increased phosphorylated-ERK expression in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. The ERK inhibitor (PD98059) remarkably decreased Ectoine-provoked HAS-2 expression, suggesting that Ectoine triggered ERK-mediated HAS-2 expression in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, Ectoine amplified JNK and AQP-3 levels in the presence or lack of UVB exposure in HaCaT cells. The JNK inhibitor (SP600125) significantly reduced Ectoine-triggered AQP-3 expression, suggesting that Ectoine provoked JNK-mediated AQP-3 expression in HaCaT cells. Ectoine increased collagen-I expression in the presence or lack of UVB irradiation in HaCaT cells. Notably, Ectoine enhanced collagen-I expression and inhibited MMP-1 expression in a dose-dependent manner in fibroblast (Hs68) cells.

Conclusion: We demonstrated that Ectoine exerts skin hydration effects without or with UVB exposure in human skin keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and anti-ageing in fibroblast (Hs68) cells. Therefore, Ectoine could serve as a potential natural compound in cosmetic preparations for skin hydration and anti-ageing.

目的:我们利用人角化细胞(HaCaT)和成纤维细胞(Hs68)在非或UVB (30 mJ/cm2)暴露下研究了Ectoine(一种天然细菌渗透剂)的皮肤水合和抗衰老功效。方法:采用细胞活力测定、小干扰RNA (siRNA)转染、免疫印迹分析等多种实验技术,探讨依图碱对皮肤水化和抗衰老作用的分子机制。结果:研究结果表明,无论UVB暴露与否,Ectoine都能提高HaCaT细胞的活力。无论UVB照射与否,Ectoine均可上调HaCaT细胞中Src和HAS-2的表达。Src敲低降低了Ectoine,增加了HaCaT细胞中Src介导的has2表达,这意味着在UVB照射或不照射的情况下,Ectoine激发了Src介导的has2表达。依托因在HaCaT细胞中以时间和剂量依赖的方式增强磷酸化erk的表达。此外,Ectoine增加了uvb照射HaCaT细胞中磷酸化erk的表达。ERK抑制剂(PD98059)显著降低Ectoine诱导的ha -2表达,提示Ectoine在HaCaT细胞中触发ERK介导的ha -2表达。此外,Ectoine在存在或缺乏UVB暴露的HaCaT细胞中扩增JNK和AQP-3水平。JNK抑制剂(SP600125)显著降低了Ectoine触发的AQP-3表达,提示Ectoine在HaCaT细胞中激发了JNK介导的AQP-3表达。在有或没有UVB照射的HaCaT细胞中,Ectoine增加了胶原- i的表达。值得注意的是,在成纤维细胞(Hs68)中,Ectoine以剂量依赖性的方式增强了胶原- i的表达并抑制了MMP-1的表达。结论:我们证明了在没有或有UVB暴露的情况下,Ectoine对人皮肤角质形成细胞(HaCaT)具有皮肤水合作用,对成纤维细胞(Hs68)具有抗衰老作用。因此,依托因可以作为一种潜在的天然化合物用于皮肤保湿和抗衰老的化妆品制剂。
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引用次数: 0
K-Nearest Neighbour-based classification of skin barrier damage using Raman imaging: A non-invasive assessment method for skin damage severity. 基于k近邻的皮肤屏障损伤拉曼成像分类:一种非侵入性皮肤损伤严重程度评估方法。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-20 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70033
Feng Zhong, Qiaochu Du, Wenrou Su, Feifei Wang

Background: The stratum corneum is essential for maintaining the skin barrier and preventing transepidermal water loss. Damage to this layer increases skin sensitivity, potentially leading to inflammation and related complications.

Aims: This study aimed to establish reproducible skin damage models and to develop a non-invasive classification method for assessing the severity of skin barrier damage.

Materials and methods: Two controlled models of injury, tape stripping (TS) and friction-induced injury, were used to simulate barrier impairment. Raman imaging was employed to analyze biomarkers, including stratum corneum thickness, lipid content, and keratin levels. These parameters were combined with the K-nearest neighbour (KNN) algorithm to categorize skin damage severity.

Results: The integrated KNN-based model successfully classified skin damage severity ranging from normal to severe. It also enabled the prediction of severity in unknown samples, providing a robust diagnostic framework.

Discussion: This non-invasive model demonstrates strong potential for diagnostics and monitoring in dermatology.

Conclusion: KNN-based classification combined with Raman imaging offers a reliable method for evaluating skin barrier damage severity.

背景:角质层对维持皮肤屏障和防止经皮水分流失至关重要。这一层的损伤会增加皮肤的敏感性,可能导致炎症和相关并发症。目的:本研究旨在建立可重复的皮肤损伤模型,并建立一种评估皮肤屏障损伤严重程度的无创分类方法。材料与方法:采用胶带剥离(TS)和摩擦损伤两种对照模型模拟屏障损伤。采用拉曼成像分析生物标志物,包括角质层厚度、脂质含量和角蛋白水平。这些参数与k近邻(KNN)算法相结合,对皮肤损伤严重程度进行分类。结果:基于knn的综合模型成功地将皮肤损伤的严重程度从正常到严重进行了分类。它还可以预测未知样本的严重程度,提供一个强大的诊断框架。讨论:这种非侵入性模型显示了在皮肤科诊断和监测方面的强大潜力。结论:基于knn的分类结合拉曼成像是评估皮肤屏障损伤严重程度的可靠方法。
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引用次数: 0
Reinventing henna: Enzyme-catalysed colour release from stabilized Lawsonia inermis L. extracts. 重新发明指甲花:酶催化的颜色释放从稳定的月桂草L.提取物。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-20 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70029
Nele Dallmann, Volkmar Vill, Fabian Straske

Objective: Improvement of application, performance, colour predictability and stability of plant-based hair colourants derived from Lawsonia inermis L. by investigating the release mechanism of lawsone during extraction and optimizing processing conditions to prevent its premature formation. A two-component system was developed, consisting of naturally occurring lawsone precursors (hennosides) in one formulation and a catalytic agent (β-glucosidase) in another.

Methods: Henna raw material was extracted using maceration, Soxhlet, and industrial-scale methods with various solvents. Extracts were analysed for yield and content of lawsone, hennosides, polyphenols, metals and reducing sugars. HPLC quantified lawsone and hennosides; reducing sugars and polyphenols were measured using dinitrosalicylic acid and Folin-Ciocalteu assays, respectively. Yak hair was dyed with different formulations and evaluated for colour outcome and wash fastness using the CIELab colour system.

Results: Formulations containing pre-released lawsone were unstable and ineffective after 4 weeks. In contrast, gel formulations containing hennosides without β-glucosidase remained stable for over 8 weeks and produced consistent colour when combined with the enzyme before application. Ethanolic extraction effectively yielded hennoside-rich extracts without lawsone formation. Aqueous extraction at boiling point also produced hennoside-rich extracts. Soxhlet extraction resulted in β-glucosidase activity remaining in the starting material. The two-component gel formulation demonstrated comparable wash fastness and colour intensity to the conventional paste, with improved ease and speed of application and rinsing.

Conclusion: Optimizing henna extract processing and formulation design enabled the development of a more user-friendly, effective and stable plant-based hair dye, supporting broader consumer adoption.

目的:通过研究月桂素在提取过程中的释放机制,优化工艺条件,防止月桂素过早形成,提高月桂素植物性染发剂的应用、性能、颜色可预测性和稳定性。开发了一种双组分体系,由天然存在的lawsone前体(hennosides)在一种配方中组成,催化剂(β-葡萄糖苷酶)在另一种配方中组成。方法:采用浸渍法、索氏法和工业规模法提取指甲花原料。分析提取液中劳索酮、hennosides、多酚、金属和还原糖的收率和含量。高效液相色谱法定量测定罗汉素和hennosides;还原糖和多酚分别用二硝基水杨酸法和福林- ciocalteu法测定。用不同的配方对牦牛毛进行染色,并使用CIELab染色系统对其着色效果和洗涤牢度进行评价。结果:含有预释律酮的制剂在4周后不稳定且无效。相比之下,不含β-葡萄糖苷酶的凝胶配方在应用前与酶结合后保持稳定超过8周,并产生一致的颜色。乙醇提取有效地得到了富含hennoside的提取物,没有形成lawsone。沸点水溶液萃取也可得到富含hennoside的萃取物。索氏提取法使β-葡萄糖苷酶活性保持在起始物质中。双组分凝胶配方证明了可比的洗涤牢度和颜色强度,以传统的浆糊,提高了易用性和速度的应用和冲洗。结论:通过对指甲花提取物工艺和配方设计的优化,可以开发出一种更友好、更有效、更稳定的植物性染发剂,支持更广泛的消费者采用。
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引用次数: 0
The synergistic anti-inflammatory effect of pterostilbene and honokiol on LPS-stimulated PMA-differentiated THP-1 macrophages. 紫檀芪和厚朴酚对lps刺激的pma分化的THP-1巨噬细胞的协同抗炎作用。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-13 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70030
Cuicui Zhu, Chenye Shen, Jing Wang, Minjia Yuan, Lei Di, Qi Li

Objective: The cosmetics industry increasingly prioritizes the development of formulations that are both safe and effective. This study aimed to investigate the synergistic anti-inflammatory effects of pterostilbene (Pt) and honokiol (Ho) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated THP-1 macrophages and to evaluate their systemic safety using the Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) framework.

Methods: Human THP-1 monocytes were differentiated with PMA and stimulated with LPS to model inflammatory conditions. Pt and Ho were tested individually and in combination for their ability to suppress macrophage proliferation and proinflammatory cytokine production (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6). Synergistic effects were assessed through combination index and isobolographic analyses. NF-κB pathway modulation was evaluated via Western blot, and molecular docking was performed to explore compound-target interactions. Maximum systemically safe concentrations were calculated using TTC values integrated with default dermal absorption percentages and product-specific exposure parameters.

Results: Pt and Ho significantly inhibited LPS-induced macrophage proliferation and cytokine production, both individually and in combination. Combination index and isobologram analyses confirmed synergistic suppression of cytokines at low, non-cytotoxic concentrations. Both compounds attenuated NF-κB activation; however, no statistical synergy was observed at the signalling level, indicating coordinated but distinct mechanisms. Molecular docking revealed direct binding of Pt to NF-κB, while Ho exhibited no appreciable binding, further supporting mechanistic divergence. TTC-based calculations established systemically safe concentration limits for Pt and Ho across various cosmetic product categories.

Conclusion: Pt and Ho exert synergistic anti-inflammatory effects in macrophages and can be safely used within systemically acceptable concentration limits in cosmetic formulations. These findings support their development as a multifunctional combination targeting inflammation-related skin conditions, while underscoring the need for further investigation into dermal safety, optimized dosing strategies and broader mechanistic pathways.

目的:化妆品行业越来越重视开发既安全又有效的配方。本研究旨在探讨紫檀芪(Pt)和厚朴酚(Ho)对脂多糖(LPS)刺激的THP-1巨噬细胞的协同抗炎作用,并利用毒性关注阈值(TTC)框架评估它们的全身安全性。方法:用PMA分化人THP-1单核细胞,LPS刺激其形成炎症模型。分别和联合检测Pt和Ho抑制巨噬细胞增殖和促炎细胞因子(TNF-α、IL-1β、IL-6)产生的能力。通过组合指数和等容积分析评估协同效应。通过Western blot评估NF-κB通路的调节,并进行分子对接以探索化合物与靶点的相互作用。使用TTC值结合默认皮肤吸收百分比和产品特定暴露参数计算最大系统安全浓度。结果:Pt和Ho可单独或联合抑制lps诱导的巨噬细胞增殖和细胞因子的产生。联合指数和等线图分析证实了低浓度、无细胞毒性时细胞因子的协同抑制作用。两种化合物均能减弱NF-κB的活化;然而,在信号水平上没有观察到统计上的协同作用,表明协调但不同的机制。分子对接显示Pt与NF-κB直接结合,而Ho未表现出明显的结合,进一步支持机制分歧。基于ttc的计算在各种化妆品类别中建立了Pt和Ho的系统安全浓度限值。结论:Pt和Ho在巨噬细胞中具有协同抗炎作用,在系统可接受的浓度范围内可安全用于化妆品配方中。这些发现支持其作为针对炎症相关皮肤疾病的多功能组合的发展,同时强调需要进一步研究皮肤安全性,优化剂量策略和更广泛的机制途径。
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引用次数: 0
Removal of synthetic hair dye using formamidine sulfinic acid and other sulfinate precursors. 用甲脒亚磺酸和其他亚硫酸盐前体去除合成染发剂。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-13 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70013
Jamie A Hawkes, David M Lewis, John Mama, Jacob Murray

Objective: Following hair coloration with home or salon-applied hair dyes, sometimes it is desirable to have the option of removing this new colour and returning the hair to its natural appearance. This can either be immediately after coloration if the client does not like the colour, or it may be that a client wishes to 'reset' their hair and almost start again. There are oxidative and reductive methodologies to remove hair dye: (i) The oxidative method utilizes persulfate-based products, which are very difficult to control; however, professional hairdressers understand the limitations of what is possible without causing excessive oxidative damage to the hair fibre. (ii) The reductive method to remove dyes utilize sulfinate-based reducing agents commonly used in the textile industry. Commercial products based on these reducing agents have been, and are still being, used to 'decolour' dyed hair, albeit with significant drawbacks. The objective of this study was to introduce formamidine sulfinic acid and demonstrate its effective removal of hair dye in a safe and effective manner without the drawbacks of alternative reducing agents.

Methods: This paper describes and critically assesses the use, performance and drawbacks of ascorbic acid, sodium hydrosulfite, sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate (aka sodium oxymethylene sulfoxylate) and formamidine sulfinic acid as colour removal agents against different types and classes of hair dyes on human hair, and compares the various outcomes.

Results: The formamidine sulfinic acid system presented herein is an extremely effective reducing agent for use in removing colour from dyed hair. It works extremely well on all types and systems of colourants including permanent oxidative colourants (from different manufacturers) which represent the majority of products used in the hair coloration market.

Conclusion: The colour removal effectiveness of sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate (sodium oxymethylene sulfoxylate) is good, but it has three drawbacks: (i) it produces formaldehyde, (ii) the colour can return and (iii) can result in unpredictable shades on subsequent oxidative colouring. The formamidine sulfinic acid system presented herein is extremely effective and gives excellent colour removal results across different colourant systems with the added benefit that it does not have the drawbacks that the other systems have.

目的:在用家庭或美容院使用的染发剂染发后,有时需要选择去除这种新颜色,使头发恢复自然状态。如果客户不喜欢染发颜色,可以在染发后立即进行,也可以是客户想要“重置”头发,几乎要重新开始。有氧化法和还原法来去除染发剂:(i)氧化法使用过硫酸盐基产品,很难控制;然而,专业的发型师明白,在不对头发纤维造成过度氧化损伤的情况下,什么是可能的。(ii)去除染料的还原法使用纺织工业中常用的亚硫酸盐基还原剂。基于这些还原剂的商业产品已经并且仍然被用于“脱色”染过的头发,尽管有明显的缺点。本研究的目的是介绍甲脒亚磺酸,并证明其安全有效地去除染发剂,而没有替代还原剂的缺点。方法:本文描述并批判性地评估了抗坏血酸、氢亚硫酸钠、羟甲磺酸钠(又名亚氧甲基亚磺酸钠)和甲脒亚磺酸作为人类头发上不同类型和类别的染发剂的脱色剂的使用、性能和缺点,并比较了各种结果。结果:甲脒亚磺酸系是一种非常有效的染发脱色还原剂。它对所有类型和系统的着色剂都非常有效,包括永久性氧化着色剂(来自不同制造商),这代表了染发市场中使用的大多数产品。结论:羟甲基亚磺酸钠(甲氧亚砜酸钠)的去色效果良好,但有三个缺点:(1)产生甲醛,(2)颜色可以恢复,(3)在随后的氧化着色中可能导致不可预测的深浅。本文提出的甲脒亚磺酸体系是非常有效的,并且在不同的着色剂体系中具有出色的脱色效果,其额外的好处是它没有其他体系所具有的缺点。
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引用次数: 0
Streaming potential analysis of hair variation: Ethnicities and environmental exposures. 头发变异的流电位分析:种族和环境暴露。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-10-13 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70018
Huijun Phoebe Tham, Kah Yuen Yip, Thomas L Dawson

Objective: This study examined the ethnic and longitudinal (proximal 'root' vs. distal 'tip') variations in hair properties across Caucasian, Chinese and Indian populations, focusing on electrokinetic behaviour, structural features and particle deposition. The aim was to use electrokinetic analysis to determine how ethnicity and weathering affect hair health and influence hair-product interactions.

Methods: Streaming potential measurements were conducted on chemically untreated ponytail samples from Caucasian, Chinese and Indian donors to determine zeta (ζ)-potentials. Particle deposition was studied using amine-grafted polymethyl-methacrylate (PMMA) particles, while cross-sectional properties were quantified using optical microscopy. Root and tip segments were analysed separately to evaluate weathering effects.

Results: Cross-sectional analysis revealed huge strand-to-strand variability within individuals. Chinese hair exhibited larger cross-sectional areas and perimeters compared to Indian and Caucasian hair, with minimal differences between the root and tip regions. For both root and tip, ζ-potential magnitudes ranked Caucasian > Indian > Chinese with no significant root tip variations despite tips enduring over 2 years of additional weathering. Similar root and tip ζ-potentials resulted in similar particle deposition for the same sample. Generally, particle deposition rates correlated with surface coverage, but ζ-potential values did not greatly influence deposition rate, with highly negatively charged Caucasian hair samples having slower deposition rates than the other ethnicities. However, a more negative ζ-potential resulted in higher surface coverage within each ethnic group. Despite Caucasian hair's more negative ζ-potential, it had the lowest average particle surface coverage (θCaucasian = 3-10%, θIndian = 6-16%, θChinese = 5-20%), suggesting other factors such as hydrophilicity influence deposition. Ethnicity influenced pH-ζ profiles, with Caucasian hair exhibiting the steepest overall gradients and the highest isoelectric point (IEP), suggesting relatively less oxidative damage. A pH-ζ classification framework is proposed to aid in analysing surface functionalities.

Conclusion: Hair properties are shaped by genetic, environmental and cultural factors. While surface charge guides particle deposition, our findings reveal distinct ethnicity-dependent behaviours, necessitating further research into other surface properties. Smaller sample sizes reduced variability, enabling hypotheses on classifications and surface functional groups, which may serve as a foundation for future studies.

目的:本研究考察了高加索人、中国人和印度人头发特性的种族和纵向(近端“根”vs远端“尖”)差异,重点关注电动力学行为、结构特征和颗粒沉积。目的是使用电动分析来确定种族和风化如何影响头发健康和影响护发产品的相互作用。方法:对来自高加索人、中国人和印度人的化学处理马尾样品进行流电位测定,以确定zeta (ζ)电位。用胺接枝聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)颗粒研究了颗粒沉积,并用光学显微镜定量了其横截面性能。根段和尖段分别进行分析,评价风化作用。结果:横断面分析揭示了个体内部巨大的链间变异。与印度人和高加索人的头发相比,中国人的头发表现出更大的横截面积和周长,根部和尖端区域之间的差异很小。对于根部和叶尖而言,ζ-潜在震级为高加索地区bb0印度地区bb1中国地区,尽管叶尖经受了2年多的额外风化,但根尖没有明显的变化。相似的根和尖ζ电位导致相同样品的颗粒沉积相似。一般来说,颗粒沉积速率与表面覆盖率相关,但ζ电位值对沉积速率没有很大影响,高负电荷的高加索头发样品的沉积速率比其他种族的头发样品慢。然而,更负的ζ-电位导致每个族群的地表覆盖率更高。尽管高加索人头发的ζ电位更负,但其平均颗粒表面覆盖率最低(θ高加索人= 3-10%,θ印度人= 6-16%,θ中国人= 5-20%),这表明亲水性等其他因素影响了沉积。种族影响pH-ζ分布,高加索人的头发表现出最陡峭的总体梯度和最高的等电点(IEP),表明相对较少的氧化损伤。提出了一个pH-ζ分类框架,以帮助分析表面功能。结论:头发的性质受遗传、环境和文化因素的影响。虽然表面电荷引导颗粒沉积,但我们的研究结果揭示了明显的种族依赖行为,需要进一步研究其他表面性质。较小的样本量减少了变异,使分类和表面官能团的假设成为可能,这可能作为未来研究的基础。
{"title":"Streaming potential analysis of hair variation: Ethnicities and environmental exposures.","authors":"Huijun Phoebe Tham, Kah Yuen Yip, Thomas L Dawson","doi":"10.1111/ics.70018","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70018","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study examined the ethnic and longitudinal (proximal 'root' vs. distal 'tip') variations in hair properties across Caucasian, Chinese and Indian populations, focusing on electrokinetic behaviour, structural features and particle deposition. The aim was to use electrokinetic analysis to determine how ethnicity and weathering affect hair health and influence hair-product interactions.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Streaming potential measurements were conducted on chemically untreated ponytail samples from Caucasian, Chinese and Indian donors to determine zeta (ζ)-potentials. Particle deposition was studied using amine-grafted polymethyl-methacrylate (PMMA) particles, while cross-sectional properties were quantified using optical microscopy. Root and tip segments were analysed separately to evaluate weathering effects.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Cross-sectional analysis revealed huge strand-to-strand variability within individuals. Chinese hair exhibited larger cross-sectional areas and perimeters compared to Indian and Caucasian hair, with minimal differences between the root and tip regions. For both root and tip, ζ-potential magnitudes ranked Caucasian > Indian > Chinese with no significant root tip variations despite tips enduring over 2 years of additional weathering. Similar root and tip ζ-potentials resulted in similar particle deposition for the same sample. Generally, particle deposition rates correlated with surface coverage, but ζ-potential values did not greatly influence deposition rate, with highly negatively charged Caucasian hair samples having slower deposition rates than the other ethnicities. However, a more negative ζ-potential resulted in higher surface coverage within each ethnic group. Despite Caucasian hair's more negative ζ-potential, it had the lowest average particle surface coverage (θ<sub>Caucasian</sub> = 3-10%, θ<sub>Indian</sub> = 6-16%, θ<sub>Chinese</sub> = 5-20%), suggesting other factors such as hydrophilicity influence deposition. Ethnicity influenced pH-ζ profiles, with Caucasian hair exhibiting the steepest overall gradients and the highest isoelectric point (IEP), suggesting relatively less oxidative damage. A pH-ζ classification framework is proposed to aid in analysing surface functionalities.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Hair properties are shaped by genetic, environmental and cultural factors. While surface charge guides particle deposition, our findings reveal distinct ethnicity-dependent behaviours, necessitating further research into other surface properties. Smaller sample sizes reduced variability, enabling hypotheses on classifications and surface functional groups, which may serve as a foundation for future studies.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-10-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145280133","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Cyclic combing of untreated and bleached human hair: Analysis of the time-dependent breakage of hair through recording the formation of fibre fragments. 循环梳理未经处理和漂白的人类头发:通过记录纤维碎片的形成分析头发的时间依赖性断裂。
IF 2.5 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70016
Thomas Davies, Gabriele Wortmann, Franz J Wortmann

Objectives: Machine-based cyclic combing of hair tresses under dry conditions is a proven method for evaluating hair strength and the impact of treatments. Recent advancements in image analysis allow for a detailed review of hair fragment lengths and quantities produced after specific combing cycles. Our aim is to provide an in-depth analysis of the kinetics of hair fragment formation.

Methods: We analysed the combing performance of untreated and bleached European straight hair, assessing two conditioning treatments. Hair tresses underwent 5000 combing cycles, with the increasing number of fragments recorded. Results were fitted using a three-parameter Voigt-Kelvin model.

Results: The fragment counts were log-normally distributed in all cases. The model uses ln(N0) to indicate early fragment release, showing higher numbers for bleached hair compared to untreated hair, which significantly drop with conditioner treatments. The ln(N) parameter estimates the maximum expected fragments. The Failure Cycle Index (FCI) remains largely unchanged across materials according to its 95% confidence limits.

Conclusions: The selected function's characteristics and the invariance of FCI indicate that friction primarily controls fragment formation in straight hair during combing. This suggest that there is no direct link between combing performance and tensile fatigue failure for this hair type. In contrast, textured hair will likely show more complex combing performance. Our analysis shows that the total number of fragments after many combing cycles can predict early failures and assess conditioning agents, thereby supporting product claims about 'hair strength'.

目的:在干燥条件下,基于机器的头发循环梳理是评估头发强度和治疗影响的一种行之有效的方法。在图像分析方面的最新进展允许对特定梳理周期后产生的头发碎片长度和数量进行详细审查。我们的目的是提供头发碎片形成动力学的深入分析。方法:我们分析了未经处理和漂白的欧洲直发的梳理性能,评估了两种调理方法。头发经历了5000次梳理循环,记录的碎片越来越多。结果采用三参数voight - kelvin模型进行拟合。结果:所有病例的碎片计数均服从对数正态分布。该模型使用ln(N0)来表示早期片段释放,与未处理的头发相比,漂白头发的片段释放量更高,而护发素处理后的片段释放量显著下降。ln(N∞)参数估计最大期望片段。失效周期指数(FCI)根据其95%的置信限基本保持不变。结论:所选功能的特点和FCI的不变性表明,摩擦主要控制梳理过程中直发碎片的形成。这表明,这种头发类型的梳头性能和拉伸疲劳失效之间没有直接联系。相比之下,有质感的头发可能会表现出更复杂的梳理效果。我们的分析表明,经过多次梳理循环后的碎片总数可以预测早期故障并评估调理剂,从而支持产品关于“头发强度”的声明。
{"title":"Cyclic combing of untreated and bleached human hair: Analysis of the time-dependent breakage of hair through recording the formation of fibre fragments.","authors":"Thomas Davies, Gabriele Wortmann, Franz J Wortmann","doi":"10.1111/ics.70016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70016","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objectives: </strong>Machine-based cyclic combing of hair tresses under dry conditions is a proven method for evaluating hair strength and the impact of treatments. Recent advancements in image analysis allow for a detailed review of hair fragment lengths and quantities produced after specific combing cycles. Our aim is to provide an in-depth analysis of the kinetics of hair fragment formation.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>We analysed the combing performance of untreated and bleached European straight hair, assessing two conditioning treatments. Hair tresses underwent 5000 combing cycles, with the increasing number of fragments recorded. Results were fitted using a three-parameter Voigt-Kelvin model.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The fragment counts were log-normally distributed in all cases. The model uses ln(N<sub>0</sub>) to indicate early fragment release, showing higher numbers for bleached hair compared to untreated hair, which significantly drop with conditioner treatments. The ln(N<sub>∞</sub>) parameter estimates the maximum expected fragments. The Failure Cycle Index (FCI) remains largely unchanged across materials according to its 95% confidence limits.</p><p><strong>Conclusions: </strong>The selected function's characteristics and the invariance of FCI indicate that friction primarily controls fragment formation in straight hair during combing. This suggest that there is no direct link between combing performance and tensile fatigue failure for this hair type. In contrast, textured hair will likely show more complex combing performance. Our analysis shows that the total number of fragments after many combing cycles can predict early failures and assess conditioning agents, thereby supporting product claims about 'hair strength'.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145033345","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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