Development of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy (ICRS) methodology over the last 20 years has enabled previously unavailable capability to acquire molecular concentration gradients across the stratum corneum (SC), at the micron level and in a clinical setting. Professor Tony Rawlings has been a driving force in SC research for over 30 years, working with a wide range of teams across the world. Because a detailed knowledge of skin biochemistry was key to interpreting ICRS-acquired molecular concentration gradients, the authors formed a close working relationship with Professor Rawlings during the development of ICRS. This article, therefore, presents a summary of this process and how challenges raised by application of ICRS were tackled, towards the goal of validating the technique for clinical skin measurement.
{"title":"In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy: The window into the skin","authors":"J. M. Crowther, P. J. Matts","doi":"10.1111/ics.12989","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12989","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Development of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy (ICRS) methodology over the last 20 years has enabled previously unavailable capability to acquire molecular concentration gradients across the stratum corneum (SC), at the micron level and in a clinical setting. Professor Tony Rawlings has been a driving force in SC research for over 30 years, working with a wide range of teams across the world. Because a detailed knowledge of skin biochemistry was key to interpreting ICRS-acquired molecular concentration gradients, the authors formed a close working relationship with Professor Rawlings during the development of ICRS. This article, therefore, presents a summary of this process and how challenges raised by application of ICRS were tackled, towards the goal of validating the technique for clinical skin measurement.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"603-609"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901619","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
<p>How many presentations by consultants who applied to your company can you remember? A very outstanding one, which was given more than 20 years ago, I remember exceptionally well. But what was so special or unique about it? Was it the quality of the lecture, its content or the person who gave it? I think it was simply everything together. This consultant was Anthony Vincent Rawlings, better known everywhere as “Tony”, someone whom Albert Kligman described in his last publication entitled “<i>Corneobiology and corneotherapy – a final chapter”</i> in IJCS in 2011 as the “indefatigable Master of the Masters.” I, on the other hand, simply called Tony “Mr. SC” or “the walking library.”</p><p>Fortunately, our company decided to take a chance on working with Tony. As it turned out, this was a wise decision. The business relationship lasted from 2002 to 2022, but our friendship still exists. Below are some of my more or less chronologically summarized memories of our long journey together.</p><p>I often wondered why Tony and I hadn't met earlier and when we met for the first time. It was probably at the IFSCC Conference in Platja d'Aro in 1993, where we both gave podium presentations. But somehow, we didn't really notice each other back then. It would be another 9 years before fate brought us together. The reason why Tony did not attend the Stratum corneum III Congress, which our company organized in Basel in 2001 together with Ronnie Marks and Jean-Luc Lévêque, was that Unilever's R&D department was once again being reorganized and Tony no longer wanted to move back from England to the USA with his young family. That was the moment he decided to start his own company, AVR Consulting, in 2002.</p><p>What a great time this Unilever SC gang, consisting of Tony, Clive Harding, Allan Watkinson and Ian Scott, had from the late 80s to the late 90s of the last century. How much light these extraordinary scientists shed on the SC, how many secrets they uncovered and unanswered questions they approached. It's unbelievable what these guys achieved in our field back then. We all still benefit from this today and build on many of these findings. I was envious of this special era more than once and often wished I could have been part of this group.</p><p>When the co-operation between our company and Tony began in 2002, two persons with similar scientific interests slowly came a little closer together. The time finally seemed ripe for us. For me, it was the beginning of something unique and wonderful. Tony and I were obsessed with understanding more about the key pathways in SC maturation and desquamation and the differences between different skin types, particularly on the face. We soon have developed the “Corneocare” concept as an umbrella for these processes. In the first phase of our collaboration, we focused on the serine proteases in the SC. It was a very fortunate circumstance that my colleagues in the Blood Coagulation Diagnostics Department at the time
{"title":"Memories of a two-decade journey with a SC addict","authors":"Rainer Voegeli","doi":"10.1111/ics.13011","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13011","url":null,"abstract":"<p>How many presentations by consultants who applied to your company can you remember? A very outstanding one, which was given more than 20 years ago, I remember exceptionally well. But what was so special or unique about it? Was it the quality of the lecture, its content or the person who gave it? I think it was simply everything together. This consultant was Anthony Vincent Rawlings, better known everywhere as “Tony”, someone whom Albert Kligman described in his last publication entitled “<i>Corneobiology and corneotherapy – a final chapter”</i> in IJCS in 2011 as the “indefatigable Master of the Masters.” I, on the other hand, simply called Tony “Mr. SC” or “the walking library.”</p><p>Fortunately, our company decided to take a chance on working with Tony. As it turned out, this was a wise decision. The business relationship lasted from 2002 to 2022, but our friendship still exists. Below are some of my more or less chronologically summarized memories of our long journey together.</p><p>I often wondered why Tony and I hadn't met earlier and when we met for the first time. It was probably at the IFSCC Conference in Platja d'Aro in 1993, where we both gave podium presentations. But somehow, we didn't really notice each other back then. It would be another 9 years before fate brought us together. The reason why Tony did not attend the Stratum corneum III Congress, which our company organized in Basel in 2001 together with Ronnie Marks and Jean-Luc Lévêque, was that Unilever's R&D department was once again being reorganized and Tony no longer wanted to move back from England to the USA with his young family. That was the moment he decided to start his own company, AVR Consulting, in 2002.</p><p>What a great time this Unilever SC gang, consisting of Tony, Clive Harding, Allan Watkinson and Ian Scott, had from the late 80s to the late 90s of the last century. How much light these extraordinary scientists shed on the SC, how many secrets they uncovered and unanswered questions they approached. It's unbelievable what these guys achieved in our field back then. We all still benefit from this today and build on many of these findings. I was envious of this special era more than once and often wished I could have been part of this group.</p><p>When the co-operation between our company and Tony began in 2002, two persons with similar scientific interests slowly came a little closer together. The time finally seemed ripe for us. For me, it was the beginning of something unique and wonderful. Tony and I were obsessed with understanding more about the key pathways in SC maturation and desquamation and the differences between different skin types, particularly on the face. We soon have developed the “Corneocare” concept as an umbrella for these processes. In the first phase of our collaboration, we focused on the serine proteases in the SC. It was a very fortunate circumstance that my colleagues in the Blood Coagulation Diagnostics Department at the time ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"484-487"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13011","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901620","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
John Nip, Hilal Ilarslan, Ana Villa, Dawn Mihalov, Manoj Misra, Samantha D. Samaras, Lin Feng, Stella Arcella, John Bajor, Andrew E. Mayes
Objective
Ex vivo skin has been used to study various skin conditions from atopic dermatitis to burn injury. The aim of this research is to identify a more effective barrier improvement strategy and to evaluate topical formulations in replenishing the skin. The skin can create new longer chain fatty acids and ceramides (CERs) from topically applied skin natural fatty acid to help renew the skin's barrier.
Methods
An ex vivo skin model damaged by sequential tape stripping of the stratum corneum (SC) was used to investigate the repair of the SC. Confocal laser scanning microscopy was used to assess the SC layers recovered. Ultrastructural analysis was performed using transmission electron microscopy to visualize the lamellar bodies and intercellular lipid lamellae.
Results
The data in this study provide the first direct ex vivo evidence comparing different marketed formulations containing three CERs with those containing fatty acids. Free fatty acid (FFA)-containing formulations, but not CER-containing formulations, directly applied to the damaged skin, showed an increased number of repaired SC layers and this was reflected at the ultrastructural level by an increased intercellular lipid lamellae length and an increased number of lamellar bodies.
Conclusion
These findings demonstrate that FFA-containing formulations can repair damaged ex vivo skin and point to a repair mechanism in which topically applied palmitic and stearic acids, (which boost lipid levels and elongation) can increase the production and transport of lipids into a repaired SC and thus rebuild an effective skin barrier.
{"title":"Topically applied, fatty acid-containing formulations provide superior barrier benefits in an ex vivo tape-stripped skin model","authors":"John Nip, Hilal Ilarslan, Ana Villa, Dawn Mihalov, Manoj Misra, Samantha D. Samaras, Lin Feng, Stella Arcella, John Bajor, Andrew E. Mayes","doi":"10.1111/ics.12961","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12961","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Ex vivo skin has been used to study various skin conditions from atopic dermatitis to burn injury. The aim of this research is to identify a more effective barrier improvement strategy and to evaluate topical formulations in replenishing the skin. The skin can create new longer chain fatty acids and ceramides (CERs) from topically applied skin natural fatty acid to help renew the skin's barrier.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>An ex vivo skin model damaged by sequential tape stripping of the stratum corneum (SC) was used to investigate the repair of the SC. Confocal laser scanning microscopy was used to assess the SC layers recovered. Ultrastructural analysis was performed using transmission electron microscopy to visualize the lamellar bodies and intercellular lipid lamellae.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The data in this study provide the first direct ex vivo evidence comparing different marketed formulations containing three CERs with those containing fatty acids. Free fatty acid (FFA)-containing formulations, but not CER-containing formulations, directly applied to the damaged skin, showed an increased number of repaired SC layers and this was reflected at the ultrastructural level by an increased intercellular lipid lamellae length and an increased number of lamellar bodies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These findings demonstrate that FFA-containing formulations can repair damaged ex vivo skin and point to a repair mechanism in which topically applied palmitic and stearic acids, (which boost lipid levels and elongation) can increase the production and transport of lipids into a repaired SC and thus rebuild an effective skin barrier.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"506-515"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901627","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long-standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database.
Anthony V. Rawlings 在皮肤科学领域拥有 30 多年的经验。他发表了许多科学论文，其研究成果被广泛引用。他对皮肤生理学的理解做出了重大贡献，包括干旱和水合、屏障功能、脱屑、角质细胞包膜、角质层脂质的物理化学、光损伤和种族差异。他曾在美国和英国多家公司担任管理职务，2002 年成立了 AVR 咨询公司，并与伦敦大学学院的同事保持着长期合作关系。他担任《国际化妆品科学杂志》主编期间，对该杂志的发展起到了关键作用。他努力工作，成功地将 IJCS 纳入 PubMed 数据库。
{"title":"Some thoughts about Anthony V. Rawlings and hydration and barrier function of the skin","authors":"Philip W. Wertz","doi":"10.1111/ics.12953","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12953","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long-standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"488-493"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12953","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901622","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
While there are a wide range of approaches for the assessment of skin hydration, it is not always clear how data from them relate to one another or to the skin itself. With the development of in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (ICRS), it has become possible to measure water concentration as a function of protein/depth within the stratum corneum (SC). This article reports a comparison between electrical skin hydration measures/visual/optical grading and water concentration profiles measured using ICRS, to better understand the relationship between these approaches.
Methods
SC hydration of lower-leg skin with varying degrees of dryness was assessed using visual grading (live and from digital images), Corneometer®, Visioscan and ICRS. In addition, a custom fingerprint sensor was used to image surface capacitance (as a surrogate of SC hydration), and SC barrier function was assessed using evaporimetry (to measure trans-epidermal water loss; TEWL).
Results
Significant correlations were observed between a number of different skin grading/measurement approaches and ICRS data. ICRS hydration profiles also revealed a region near the SC surface with a relatively flat water profile in dry skin subjects.
Conclusions
The advent of quantitative in vivo analytical techniques such as ICRS, which can be used in a clinical setting, has enabled greater insight into more conventional approaches for assessing skin dryness. While traditional skin grading and biophysical methods for measuring skin hydration have varying degrees of correlation with one another, they also provide comparatively unique information about different regions within the SC. This should enable a more informed approach to product development in the future.
{"title":"What defines dry skin? Correlating a range of skin hydration parameters with In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy","authors":"Jonathan M. Crowther, Paul J. Matts","doi":"10.1111/ics.12990","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12990","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>While there are a wide range of approaches for the assessment of skin hydration, it is not always clear how data from them relate to one another or to the skin itself. With the development of in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (ICRS), it has become possible to measure water concentration as a function of protein/depth within the stratum corneum (SC). This article reports a comparison between electrical skin hydration measures/visual/optical grading and water concentration profiles measured using ICRS, to better understand the relationship between these approaches.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>SC hydration of lower-leg skin with varying degrees of dryness was assessed using visual grading (live and from digital images), Corneometer®, Visioscan and ICRS. In addition, a custom fingerprint sensor was used to image surface capacitance (as a surrogate of SC hydration), and SC barrier function was assessed using evaporimetry (to measure trans-epidermal water loss; TEWL).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Significant correlations were observed between a number of different skin grading/measurement approaches and ICRS data. ICRS hydration profiles also revealed a region near the SC surface with a relatively flat water profile in dry skin subjects.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The advent of quantitative in vivo analytical techniques such as ICRS, which can be used in a clinical setting, has enabled greater insight into more conventional approaches for assessing skin dryness. While traditional skin grading and biophysical methods for measuring skin hydration have varying degrees of correlation with one another, they also provide comparatively unique information about different regions within the SC. This should enable a more informed approach to product development in the future.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"610-622"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This paper aims to develop and validate a taxonomy for the assessment of the subjective experience of curly hair manageability. It represents the latter of two iterative stages of a mixed-method design interdisciplinary project.
Methods
The qualitative stage of the study incorporated thematic analysis of 14 interview transcripts generated using a video-ethnographic method (SEBE). A survey-based instrument assessing different elements of the construct of hair manageability designed during the first stage of this project was further developed following consultations with experts with extensive experience in hair research, product development, testing and trichology. The instrument was tested online with 506 female participants self-reporting natural curly hair, types 3A and higher according to the Andre Walker Curl Classification.
Results
The initial construct of four groups of hair goals received positive content validity from the experts. High scale reliability was achieved for the aesthetic, haptic and emotive goals' scales as well as for hair esteem (Cronbach's alpha >0.75). Curl type was the only personal hair attribute that was correlated with hair goals and perceptions. From the demographic and lifestyle data, only age was correlated with goals and willingness to try new products. Common hair practices and product usage were also correlated with hair curl and goals.
Conclusion
The appropriateness of the instrument for measuring the strength of different hair goals and perceptions relevant to hair curvature degree and hair esteem has been validated. The instrument will support the development and testing of products better aligned with the manageability needs of very curly and textured hair. It was also confirmed that hair curvature is the most significant determinant of practices, and age of product attitudes.
{"title":"Taxonomy for the assessment of the subjective experience of curly hair manageability","authors":"Gabriela Daniels, Maxi Heitmayer","doi":"10.1111/ics.13008","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13008","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This paper aims to develop and validate a taxonomy for the assessment of the subjective experience of curly hair manageability. It represents the latter of two iterative stages of a mixed-method design interdisciplinary project.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The qualitative stage of the study incorporated thematic analysis of 14 interview transcripts generated using a video-ethnographic method (SEBE). A survey-based instrument assessing different elements of the construct of hair manageability designed during the first stage of this project was further developed following consultations with experts with extensive experience in hair research, product development, testing and trichology. The instrument was tested online with 506 female participants self-reporting natural curly hair, types 3A and higher according to the Andre Walker Curl Classification.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The initial construct of four groups of hair goals received positive content validity from the experts. High scale reliability was achieved for the aesthetic, haptic and emotive goals' scales as well as for hair esteem (Cronbach's alpha >0.75). Curl type was the only personal hair attribute that was correlated with hair goals and perceptions. From the demographic and lifestyle data, only age was correlated with goals and willingness to try new products. Common hair practices and product usage were also correlated with hair curl and goals.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The appropriateness of the instrument for measuring the strength of different hair goals and perceptions relevant to hair curvature degree and hair esteem has been validated. The instrument will support the development and testing of products better aligned with the manageability needs of very curly and textured hair. It was also confirmed that hair curvature is the most significant determinant of practices, and age of product attitudes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1074-1087"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13008","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758505","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
L. Bergeron, M. Brulas, L. Mouret, A. Seassau, M. Magliano, E. Oger, I. Imbert
Objective
This study focused on the development of a new-to-world ingredient harnessing the natural potential of fresh Jasminum grandiflorum flowers to self-ferment by its phytobiome revealing flower content. Analytical investigations were conducted to highlight specific phytocompounds generated during the natural fermentation of flowers in comparison to a conventional extraction. The synergy with another extraction technology maximized the generation of biocompounds for an interesting efficacy.
Methods
Jasmine extract was elaborated by combining two patented technologies: the phytofermentology™, inspired by plant–microorganisms interaction and designed to develop ingredients obtained by natural fermentation of the vegetal using its own phytobiota; and the PSR™ technology allowing the extraction of bioactive phytocompounds such as small RNAs from plants.
Results
Analytical investigations of Jasmine extract highlighted uniqueness and richness of the phytocompound profiles, such as organics acids and phenolic compounds, markers of fermentation only obtained after phytofermentology in comparison to conventional extraction. Jasmine extract has the particularity to contain jasmintides, flower small peptides belonging to the family of cysteine-rich peptides (CRPs). Antioxidant and global anti-ageing properties were investigated in cell-free assays demonstrating interesting results: about 20% scavenging of free radicals from 0.5% of Jasmine extract and protection from DNA damage of 26% in comparison to a stressed control.
Conclusion
Phytofermentology™ technology combined with PSR™ technology, meant to be respectful of the environment, allowed to development of biofunctionals very close to nature with a unique analytical signature as Jasmine extract, using the potential of fresh flowers phytobiota to self-ferment. The efficacy of the ingredient on global antioxidation and anti-ageing via hyaluronidase/tyrosinase inhibitions was highlighted by cell-free evaluation assays. Further and complementary studies should be conducted to confirm the bioefficacy of this ingredient with in vitro / ex vivo assays.
{"title":"Natural fermentation of fresh Jasmine flowers inspired the development of a biotechnological ingredient with global anti-ageing properties","authors":"L. Bergeron, M. Brulas, L. Mouret, A. Seassau, M. Magliano, E. Oger, I. Imbert","doi":"10.1111/ics.12992","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12992","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study focused on the development of a new-to-world ingredient harnessing the natural potential of fresh <i>Jasminum grandiflorum</i> flowers to self-ferment by its phytobiome revealing flower content. Analytical investigations were conducted to highlight specific phytocompounds generated during the natural fermentation of flowers in comparison to a conventional extraction. The synergy with another extraction technology maximized the generation of biocompounds for an interesting efficacy.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Jasmine extract was elaborated by combining two patented technologies: the phytofermentology™, inspired by plant–microorganisms interaction and designed to develop ingredients obtained by natural fermentation of the vegetal using its own phytobiota; and the PSR™ technology allowing the extraction of bioactive phytocompounds such as small RNAs from plants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Analytical investigations of Jasmine extract highlighted uniqueness and richness of the phytocompound profiles, such as organics acids and phenolic compounds, markers of fermentation only obtained after phytofermentology in comparison to conventional extraction. Jasmine extract has the particularity to contain jasmintides, flower small peptides belonging to the family of cysteine-rich peptides (CRPs). Antioxidant and global anti-ageing properties were investigated in cell-free assays demonstrating interesting results: about 20% scavenging of free radicals from 0.5% of Jasmine extract and protection from DNA damage of 26% in comparison to a stressed control.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Phytofermentology™ technology combined with PSR™ technology, meant to be respectful of the environment, allowed to development of biofunctionals very close to nature with a unique analytical signature as Jasmine extract, using the potential of fresh flowers phytobiota to self-ferment. The efficacy of the ingredient on global antioxidation and anti-ageing via hyaluronidase/tyrosinase inhibitions was highlighted by cell-free evaluation assays. Further and complementary studies should be conducted to confirm the bioefficacy of this ingredient with in vitro / ex vivo assays.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"962-971"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758575","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jin Zhou, Annette Mehling, Qiujing Wang, Xiaoyue Wang, Xinyue Hu, Liya Song
Objective
Exploring the effects of age on microbial community structure and understanding the effects of chronological ageing as well as sun exposure on microbial community diversity.
Method
The microbial characteristics of the facial skin of 98 adult women aged 18–70 years were studied using 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and differences based on age and reported sun exposure were assessed.
Results
The cheek skin's bacterial diversity and richness increased with age. The relative abundance of Cutibacterium decreased with age, while the relative abundance of Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, Paracoccus, Micrococcus, Kocuria, Kytococcus, and Chryseobacterium increased. In addition, an increase in Micrococcus and a decrease in Cutibacterium were observed in volunteers with more than 2 h of daily sun exposure compared to volunteers with <2 h of daily sun exposure. Under low-sunlight conditions, Cutibacterium was more prevalent in the youth group, and Corynebacterium, Anaerococcus, and Kytococcus were more prevalent in the older group.
Conclusion
The diversity and composition of the bacterial community on the cheeks are affected by age and extrinsic factors (sun exposure) may also play a role in this.
{"title":"Age-related changes in the bacterial composition of healthy female facial skin in Beijing area","authors":"Jin Zhou, Annette Mehling, Qiujing Wang, Xiaoyue Wang, Xinyue Hu, Liya Song","doi":"10.1111/ics.12997","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12997","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Exploring the effects of age on microbial community structure and understanding the effects of chronological ageing as well as sun exposure on microbial community diversity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Method</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The microbial characteristics of the facial skin of 98 adult women aged 18–70 years were studied using 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and differences based on age and reported sun exposure were assessed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The cheek skin's bacterial diversity and richness increased with age. The relative abundance of <i>Cutibacterium</i> decreased with age, while the relative abundance of <i>Corynebacterium</i>, <i>Anaerococcus</i>, <i>Paracoccus</i>, <i>Micrococcus</i>, <i>Kocuria</i>, <i>Kytococcus</i>, and <i>Chryseobacterium</i> increased. In addition, an increase in <i>Micrococcus</i> and a decrease in <i>Cutibacterium</i> were observed in volunteers with more than 2 h of daily sun exposure compared to volunteers with <2 h of daily sun exposure. Under low-sunlight conditions, <i>Cutibacterium</i> was more prevalent in the youth group, and <i>Corynebacterium</i>, <i>Anaerococcus</i>, and <i>Kytococcus</i> were more prevalent in the older group.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The diversity and composition of the bacterial community on the cheeks are affected by age and extrinsic factors (sun exposure) may also play a role in this.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"982-994"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758571","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Djigo-Isett Zago, Souad Ben Bari, Anne Tirard, Sébastien Miksa, Pascale Renoux, Emmanuel Questel
A sunscreen product is allowed to be marketed if a protection is provided against ultraviolets (UV) including UVA rays and UVB rays expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF). UVB is radiation that is in the region of the ultraviolet spectrum which extends from about 290 to 320 nm in wavelength and that is primarily responsible for sunburn, ageing of the skin, and the development of skin cancer. Thus, since April 2009, the Bureau Interprofessionnel d'Etudes Analytiques (BIPEA) set up a proficiency testing scheme (PTS) for the determination of SPF in vivo of sunscreen products according to ISO 24444 standard [Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)] to evaluate the analytical performances of laboratories on these analyses. This PTS gathers twenty-six laboratories around the world with one trial a year. For each test, the statistical treatment of the data is performed according to ISO 13528 standard [Statistical methods for use in proficiency testing by interlaboratory comparison]. The assigned and tolerance values are calculated from the participants' data and the performances of the laboratories are evaluated individually and collectively according to ISO 17043 standard [Conformity assessment - General requirements for proficiency testing]. This paper presents the design of the PT program, its development, and an attentive analysis of laboratories results, which highlight the global performances obtained by laboratories on this type of analysis. The evaluation of the results shows, in fact, a relatively constant dispersion of data since the implementation of the PT program (variability between 10% and 50%).
{"title":"Overview of proficiency testing results for the in vivo determination of sun protection factor","authors":"Djigo-Isett Zago, Souad Ben Bari, Anne Tirard, Sébastien Miksa, Pascale Renoux, Emmanuel Questel","doi":"10.1111/ics.13007","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13007","url":null,"abstract":"<p>A sunscreen product is allowed to be marketed if a protection is provided against ultraviolets (UV) including UVA rays and UVB rays expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF). UVB is radiation that is in the region of the ultraviolet spectrum which extends from about 290 to 320 nm in wavelength and that is primarily responsible for sunburn, ageing of the skin, and the development of skin cancer. Thus, since April 2009, the Bureau Interprofessionnel d'Etudes Analytiques (BIPEA) set up a proficiency testing scheme (PTS) for the determination of SPF in vivo of sunscreen products according to ISO 24444 standard [Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - <i>in vivo</i> determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)] to evaluate the analytical performances of laboratories on these analyses. This PTS gathers twenty-six laboratories around the world with one trial a year. For each test, the statistical treatment of the data is performed according to ISO 13528 standard [Statistical methods for use in proficiency testing by interlaboratory comparison]. The assigned and tolerance values are calculated from the participants' data and the performances of the laboratories are evaluated individually and collectively according to ISO 17043 standard [Conformity assessment - General requirements for proficiency testing]. This paper presents the design of the PT program, its development, and an attentive analysis of laboratories results, which highlight the global performances obtained by laboratories on this type of analysis. The evaluation of the results shows, in fact, a relatively constant dispersion of data since the implementation of the PT program (variability between 10% and 50%).</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1097-1104"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758576","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and ‘Check-all-that-apply’) are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.
{"title":"Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review","authors":"Elie Akanny, Christina Kohlmann","doi":"10.1111/ics.13004","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13004","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and ‘Check-all-that-apply’) are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1035-1063"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13004","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758578","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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