International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

This review offers an in-depth exploration of the bioactivities, extraction techniques, formulation approaches and practical uses of naturally derived antioxidants in anti-ageing skincare. A critical analysis of the literature was performed. Extracts from leaves, aerial parts, seeds, peels, fruits and barks exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and anti-tyrosinase activities. Natural-based antioxidants exhibit a wide range of bioactivities as neutralizing free radicals through mechanisms such as metal chelation and activation of cellular antioxidant pathways (e.g. Nrf2/ARE) and anti-inflammatory effects by modulating cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6 and promoting wound healing by stimulating collagen synthesis and bioactive compound production. Extracts from Mucuna species, Magnolia officinalis and Arbutus unedo, for instance, demonstrate anti-ageing efficacy by inhibiting enzymes such as collagenase, elastase and MMPs. Certain fruit and seed extracts provide photoprotection with high SPF values, while others-such as mushroom extracts and essential oils-display potent antimicrobial activity. Their bioactivity is often enhanced through fermentation processes, innovative delivery systems like liposomes, niosomes and polymeric micelles, which improve stability, bioavailability and topical effectiveness. Extraction methods for natural antioxidants-including aqueous, hydroalcoholic, ultrasound-assisted (UAE), fermentation-assisted and alternative solvent (NaDES) techniques-are crucial for recovering and stabilizing bioactive compounds. Emerging green technologies such as supercritical CO₂ extraction (SC-CO₂), subcritical water extraction (SWE), supramolecular solvents (SUPRAS) and cloud point extraction (CPE) offer sustainable and selective recovery of bioactives with reduced environmental impact. These bioactives address oxidative stress, UV damage and dermal ageing, offering multifunctional applications in cosmeceuticals, pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals. However, challenges such as photostability, inconsistent bioavailability and regulatory hurdles persist. Future research focusing on synergistic formulations, clinical validation and microbiome-friendly antioxidants will drive their advancement in next-generation sustainable skincare.

Objective: This study aims to use electrokinetic analysis to investigate the deposition behaviour and conditioning efficacy of cationic surfactants on human hair, focusing on how surfactant structure, concentration and hair damage influence performance. It also aims to understand the mechanisms governing surfactant adsorption and their impact on hair manageability and health.

Methods: This research employed streaming potential measurements-including pH-dependent, time-dependent and concentration-dependent zeta (ζ)-potential studies-alongside wet combing analyses and ATR-FTIR spectroscopy to evaluate the adsorption affinity and conditioning effects of four cationic surfactants: behentrimonium chloride (BTMC), behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC) and stearylalkonium chloride (STAC). A simplified model surface using silicon oxide (Si | SiO₂) wafers was also utilized to isolate the influence of hair's natural variability and fibrous structure.

Results: Longer-chain surfactants like BTMC showed superior deposition and conditioning due to stronger van der Waals interactions, while bulky groups in STAC hindered deposition. BTMC outperformed BTMS, likely due to the chloride counterion's higher mobility. BTMC and BTMS were superior against CTAC and STAC due to their longer carbon chain length. Wet combing analyses revealed that BTMC significantly reduced combing forces, improving manageability, whereas STAC fared the worst due to its low adsorption. However, ATR-FTIR analysis indicated no reversal of oxidative damage, suggesting conditioners improve manageability without repairing structural damage.

Conclusion: The study highlights the importance of surfactant molecular structure-such as carbon chain length and counterion type-in deposition efficiency and conditioning performance, providing valuable insights for developing more effective hair care formulations. By leveraging electrokinetic analyses in the form of streaming potential experiments, we were able to quantitatively assess adsorption behaviour, ζ-potential changes and the dynamic interactions between surfactants and hair. These findings enhance the understanding of cationic surfactant-hair interactions, offering practical implications for optimizing conditioners to improve user experience and hair health.

Background: Chronic UVA exposure leads to oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation and DNA photodamage, resulting in clinical manifestations of photoaging. In addition to UV filtering, multifunctional sunscreens enriched with antioxidants and humectants may support skin barrier repair and inflammation mitigation.

Aim: To evaluate efficacy against UVA-induced photoaging by assessing (i) post-UVA reparative effects in a 3D skin model and (ii) the clinical effect of once-daily use over 28 days in Chinese women.

Methods: A 3D full-thickness human skin model was exposed to UVA (35 J/cm²) as a single-challenge stressor and then treated with the sunscreen emulsion to assess residual CPD levels measured post-irradiation, epidermal thickness, fibroblast density and collagen remodelling. In parallel, a 28-day clinical study in 63 Chinese women assessed hydration, TEWL, elasticity, redness and dermatologist-graded signs of aging following once-daily facial application.

Results: In vitro, when applied after UVA exposure, the formulation reduced residual CPD levels measured post-irradiation (-68.1%), restored epidermal thickness (+109.7%) and fibroblast density (+131.1%), and upregulated collagen types I, IV, VII and XVII. Clinically, the emulsion improved hydration (+33.7%), reduced TEWL (-15.6%), increased elasticity (+14.0%) and attenuated facial redness (-73.7%). Dermatologist grading confirmed significant improvements in wrinkles, firmness and tone evenness.

Conclusions: This dual-model evaluation demonstrates that the multifunctional sunscreen emulsion not only provides broad-spectrum photoprotection but also supports structural repair and barrier function in UVA-compromised skin. These findings support its potential as an integrated solution for photoprotection and anti-photoaging care in Asian populations.

While androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is primarily driven by excessive 5-α reductase (5-αR) activity, further mechanisms also contribute to the development of AGA and other hair loss disorders. Here, we explored the properties of the proprietary lipidosterolic extracts of the plant Serenoa repens (LSESr), also known as Saw Palmetto, focusing on USPlus® DERM Bioactive Fatty Acids (USPlus® DERM). USPlus® DERM contains concentrated levels of bioactive free fatty acids (FFAs) that are integral lipids found in the hair shaft and modulate pathways relevant to hair follicle (HF) function. Therefore, USPlus® DERM promises to have both 5-αR-dependent and also -independent hair growth-promoting effects. Here, we initially confirmed the 5-αR inhibitor activity of USPlus® DERM in primary human hair follicle dermal papilla cells. USPlus® DERM exhibited a more potent 5-αR inhibition than a standard, commercially available saw palmetto extract and a standardized LSESr meeting the US Pharmacopoeia monograph, with IC₅₀ values of 0.39, 29.1 and 9.1 μg/mL respectively. To explore potential 5-αR-independent responses, USPlus® DERM was administered at two different concentrations, 0.4 and 10 μg/mL, to androgen-independent, 'clinically healthy' full-length HFs ex vivo obtained from the occipital scalp of male donors, in the absence of testosterone. Interestingly, USPlus® DERM at 0.4 μg/mL significantly reduced the number of melanin clumps, regarded as signs of organ culture mediated stress conditions. Despite inter-donor variations, USPlus® DERM prolonged anagen ex vivo, particularly at the low concentration, evidenced by a significant reduction in the hair cycle score and the tendency to boost hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation (Ki-67⁺cells). USPlus® DERM did not affect dermal papilla inductivity, as measured by versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity. While the percentage of K15⁺ epithelial HF stem cells (eHFSC) remained unaffected, 0.4 μg/mL USPlus® DERM tendentially enhanced K15 expression and reduced the number of Ki-67⁺K15⁺ cells, indicating reinforcement of the eHFSCs niche. These preliminary findings suggest that USPlus® DERM has the potential to promote hair growth and to enhance HFSC stemness in the 'clinically predictive' HF organ culture model, independently from 5-αR inhibition. Thus, USPlus® DERM deserves to be further investigated as an anti-hair loss strategy, for not only AGA management but also other hair loss disorders.

Objective: Oxidative stress and its induced protein alterations are instrumental in the early onset and progression of ageing. To protect the skin proteome, we evaluated the extract of a bacterium isolated from snowflakes (Arthrobacter agilis). This Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE) has been found to be rich in bacterioruberins, C-50 unsaturated carotenoids with potent antioxidative properties.

Methods: The Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE), having protective effect against oxidative, saline, and heat stresses, was evaluated in tubo. Protection against protein carbonylation was assessed in human primary keratinocytes and skin explants subjected to various stresses. The impact of an AAE-containing cream on protein carbonylation was analysed on the face of 23 smokers after 28 days.

Results: In tubo, AAE protects alkaline phosphatase against oxidative and heat stresses, increasing the temperature at which BSA is denatured. It also partially prevented elastin aggregation induced by a salt stress. In human primary keratinocytes exposed to UV, particulate matter (PM), or blue light, AAE reduced protein carbonylation, a marker of oxidative stress in the proteome. When formulated in creams, topical applications prevent protein carbonylation in the epidermis and dermis of skin explants co-exposed to UV and PM. Furthermore, after 28 days of application, protein carbonylation was reduced in the upper skin layers of smokers.

Conclusions: AAE protects the proteome against oxidative stress via a dual mode of action: antioxidant and chaperone-like activities (as demonstrated by protection against heat and salt). AAE is a promising age-management compound that safeguards the fragile skin ecosystem in an ecobiological approach, protecting the effectors of healthy skin functioning and reinforcing natural defences when overwhelmed.

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a paradigm shift as consumers increasingly seek sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. This shift has led to a resurgence of interest in natural products, perceived as healthier and environmentally responsible. This review critically explores the integration of plant-based ingredients into cosmetic formulations, outlining their bioactivities, safety considerations, and industry implications. By systematically analysing reviewed evidence and market data, the review identifies current applications, emerging opportunities, and research gaps in skincare, haircare, perfumery, oral care, and lip care sectors. In different cosmeceutical care, natural products like Aloe vera, Matricaria recutita, Camellia sinensis, Ziziphus spina-christi, Lemna minor, Annona muricata and various other plant extracts contribute to overall oral hygiene and lip health. Due to the escalating demand for sustainable beauty materials, this review finds major outcome of plant-based ingredients in shaping the future of cosmetic innovations worldwide.

Objective: Research on female facial attractiveness has focused on the effects of face shape and skin condition. Few studies have investigated the impact of hair on assessments of female attractiveness. Research using images of computer-generated (rendered) hair has demonstrated that subtle variations in hair thickness, density and style affect perceptions of female age, health and attractiveness.

Method: The current study consisted of two experiments in which non-expert female panellists viewed distinct expressions of specific hair features and judged them for age, health and attractiveness. In Experiment 1, women from three countries (Germany, Spain and USA; n = 500 each) judged high-shine and low-shine versions of natural Caucasian hair wigs on a female target-photographed from right back (3/4 view)-for age, health and attractiveness. In Experiment 2, professional stylists manipulated shine, alignment and volume of natural Caucasian hair wigs, creating two versions-one high and one low in each feature-for blonde hair and brown hair. A woman with light skin pigmentation wore the wigs and was photographed in three head orientations under controlled lighting conditions. Omnibus pairwise combinations of hair conditions were created and judged by n = 2000 US women for age, health and attractiveness.

Results: Experiment 1 showed that, across countries, high-shine hair was rated more youthful, healthier and attractive than low-shine hair. Experiment 2 indicated that straight-aligned hair was perceived as most youthful, healthy and attractive, regardless of hair colour and head orientation. High shine also was preferred, although its impact was weaker than that of hair alignment.

Conclusion: Straight-aligned hair, together with shine, affects female appearance and this influence is noticeable even with small (mobile phone-sized) images.

Objective: We investigated skin hydration and anti-ageing efficacies of Ectoine, a natural bacterial osmolyte, utilising human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (Hs68) cells under non- or UVB (30 mJ/cm²) exposure.

Methods: We incorporated various experimental techniques, including MTT assay (cell viability), small interfering RNA (siRNA) transfection, and immunoblotting analysis, to assess the molecular mechanisms of skin hydration and anti-ageing efficacies of Ectoine.

Results: The findings exhibited that Ectoine improved cell viability in the presence or absence of UVB exposure in HaCaT cells. Ectoine upregulated Src and HAS-2 expression in the presence or absence of UVB irradiation in HaCaT cells. Src knockdown reduced Ectoine-increased HAS-2 expression, implying that Ectoine provoked Src-mediated HAS-2 expression in the presence of or without UVB irradiation in HaCaT cells. Ectoine enhanced phosphorylated-ERK expression in a time- and dose-dependent manner in HaCaT cells. In addition, Ectoine increased phosphorylated-ERK expression in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. The ERK inhibitor (PD98059) remarkably decreased Ectoine-provoked HAS-2 expression, suggesting that Ectoine triggered ERK-mediated HAS-2 expression in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, Ectoine amplified JNK and AQP-3 levels in the presence or lack of UVB exposure in HaCaT cells. The JNK inhibitor (SP600125) significantly reduced Ectoine-triggered AQP-3 expression, suggesting that Ectoine provoked JNK-mediated AQP-3 expression in HaCaT cells. Ectoine increased collagen-I expression in the presence or lack of UVB irradiation in HaCaT cells. Notably, Ectoine enhanced collagen-I expression and inhibited MMP-1 expression in a dose-dependent manner in fibroblast (Hs68) cells.

Conclusion: We demonstrated that Ectoine exerts skin hydration effects without or with UVB exposure in human skin keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and anti-ageing in fibroblast (Hs68) cells. Therefore, Ectoine could serve as a potential natural compound in cosmetic preparations for skin hydration and anti-ageing.

Background: The stratum corneum is essential for maintaining the skin barrier and preventing transepidermal water loss. Damage to this layer increases skin sensitivity, potentially leading to inflammation and related complications.

Aims: This study aimed to establish reproducible skin damage models and to develop a non-invasive classification method for assessing the severity of skin barrier damage.

Materials and methods: Two controlled models of injury, tape stripping (TS) and friction-induced injury, were used to simulate barrier impairment. Raman imaging was employed to analyze biomarkers, including stratum corneum thickness, lipid content, and keratin levels. These parameters were combined with the K-nearest neighbour (KNN) algorithm to categorize skin damage severity.

Results: The integrated KNN-based model successfully classified skin damage severity ranging from normal to severe. It also enabled the prediction of severity in unknown samples, providing a robust diagnostic framework.

Discussion: This non-invasive model demonstrates strong potential for diagnostics and monitoring in dermatology.

Conclusion: KNN-based classification combined with Raman imaging offers a reliable method for evaluating skin barrier damage severity.

Objective: Improvement of application, performance, colour predictability and stability of plant-based hair colourants derived from Lawsonia inermis L. by investigating the release mechanism of lawsone during extraction and optimizing processing conditions to prevent its premature formation. A two-component system was developed, consisting of naturally occurring lawsone precursors (hennosides) in one formulation and a catalytic agent (β-glucosidase) in another.

Methods: Henna raw material was extracted using maceration, Soxhlet, and industrial-scale methods with various solvents. Extracts were analysed for yield and content of lawsone, hennosides, polyphenols, metals and reducing sugars. HPLC quantified lawsone and hennosides; reducing sugars and polyphenols were measured using dinitrosalicylic acid and Folin-Ciocalteu assays, respectively. Yak hair was dyed with different formulations and evaluated for colour outcome and wash fastness using the CIELab colour system.

Results: Formulations containing pre-released lawsone were unstable and ineffective after 4 weeks. In contrast, gel formulations containing hennosides without β-glucosidase remained stable for over 8 weeks and produced consistent colour when combined with the enzyme before application. Ethanolic extraction effectively yielded hennoside-rich extracts without lawsone formation. Aqueous extraction at boiling point also produced hennoside-rich extracts. Soxhlet extraction resulted in β-glucosidase activity remaining in the starting material. The two-component gel formulation demonstrated comparable wash fastness and colour intensity to the conventional paste, with improved ease and speed of application and rinsing.

Conclusion: Optimizing henna extract processing and formulation design enabled the development of a more user-friendly, effective and stable plant-based hair dye, supporting broader consumer adoption.