Charlene DeHaven, Stephanie Wheeler, Anna Langerveld, C. Bryan Johns
Skin health is impacted by a wide range of intrinsic and extrinsic factors (J Dermatol Sci, 2017, 85, 152), including those that impact circadian rhythm, such as sleep disruption (Textbook of Aging Skin, 2016), UV (Biomed Aging Pathol, 2013, 3, 161) and blue light (Int J Cosmet Sci, 2019, 41, 558). Disruption of the skin's endogenous circadian balance, even by a consistently late bedtime, has deleterious effects on multiple measurements of skin health, including hydration, skin barrier protection, microbiome counts and skin regeneration, among others (Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2022, 15, 1051). Skin repair processes occur at night and help to maintain important aspects of skin health (FEBS Lett, 2021, 595, 2413). Interest is increasing in the development of topical products that help restore proper circadian function. This study demonstrates that a proprietary topical formulation regulates new and established gene and protein biomarkers of circadian entrainment and circadian rhythm, demonstrating the product's potential to maintain appropriate dermal diurnal balance.
{"title":"Regulation of dermal circadian pathways by a novel topical formulation","authors":"Charlene DeHaven, Stephanie Wheeler, Anna Langerveld, C. Bryan Johns","doi":"10.1111/ics.13017","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13017","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Skin health is impacted by a wide range of intrinsic and extrinsic factors (<i>J Dermatol Sci</i>, 2017, 85, 152), including those that impact circadian rhythm, such as sleep disruption (<i>Textbook of Aging Skin</i>, 2016), UV (<i>Biomed Aging Pathol</i>, 2013, 3, 161) and blue light (<i>Int J Cosmet Sci</i>, 2019, 41, 558). Disruption of the skin's endogenous circadian balance, even by a consistently late bedtime, has deleterious effects on multiple measurements of skin health, including hydration, skin barrier protection, microbiome counts and skin regeneration, among others (<i>Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol</i>, 2022, 15, 1051). Skin repair processes occur at night and help to maintain important aspects of skin health (<i>FEBS Lett</i>, 2021, 595, 2413). Interest is increasing in the development of topical products that help restore proper circadian function. This study demonstrates that a proprietary topical formulation regulates new and established gene and protein biomarkers of circadian entrainment and circadian rhythm, demonstrating the product's potential to maintain appropriate dermal diurnal balance.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"123-133"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13017","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142107098","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Wenna Wang, Frederic Flament, Hequn Wang, Chengda Ye, Ruowei Jiang, Jeff Houghton, Wei Liu
Objective
The objective of this study is to assess the correspondence, in live conditions, between clinical gradings of facial aging signs by three dermatologists and those afforded by an automatic AI-based algorithm that analyses smartphones' selfie images of Chinese subjects.
Methods
In total, 125 Chinese subjects of both genders, aged 18–62y, took a selfie using their own smartphones and were immediately viewed by three dermatologists. The latter graded the severity of 15 facial signs in women and 9 in men, using the standardized values afforded by a Skin Aging Atlas referential dedicated to Asian skin. The data issued by both methodologies were then statistically compared.
Results
The absolute gradings of the automatic system were found highly correlated with clinical assessments, with lower values in most cases. In women, large differences in absolute values were found on the gradings for size of isolated spot, cheek fold, spread macules, and texture of mouth contour women. Analysis of the Mean Absolute Errors (M.A.E) revealed that these rarely exceed 0.6 grading units in women and to a lesser extent in men.
Conclusion
The present study confirmed the value of the automatic system towards an extended use towards large human cohorts as a surrogate of clinical evaluations and allowed to detect the points where improvements must be brought to the system.
{"title":"Grading facial aging: Comparing the clinical assessments made by three dermatologists with those obtained by an AI-based scoring system that analyses selfie pictures. A focus on Chinese subjects of both genders","authors":"Wenna Wang, Frederic Flament, Hequn Wang, Chengda Ye, Ruowei Jiang, Jeff Houghton, Wei Liu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13016","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13016","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The objective of this study is to assess the correspondence, in live conditions, between clinical gradings of facial aging signs by three dermatologists and those afforded by an automatic AI-based algorithm that analyses smartphones' selfie images of Chinese subjects.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In total, 125 Chinese subjects of both genders, aged 18–62y, took a selfie using their own smartphones and were immediately viewed by three dermatologists. The latter graded the severity of 15 facial signs in women and 9 in men, using the standardized values afforded by a Skin Aging Atlas referential dedicated to Asian skin. The data issued by both methodologies were then statistically compared.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The absolute gradings of the automatic system were found highly correlated with clinical assessments, with lower values in most cases. In women, large differences in absolute values were found on the gradings for size of isolated spot, cheek fold, spread macules, and texture of mouth contour women. Analysis of the Mean Absolute Errors (M.A.E) revealed that these rarely exceed 0.6 grading units in women and to a lesser extent in men.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The present study confirmed the value of the automatic system towards an extended use towards large human cohorts as a surrogate of clinical evaluations and allowed to detect the points where improvements must be brought to the system.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"113-122"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142107097","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
William P. Janson, Laurie E. Breyfogle, John C. Bierman, Zhi Yan Chew, Matthew C. Ehrman, John E. Oblong
Objective
To evaluate whether p-hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) alone and in combination with niacinamide (Nam) can mitigate UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and inflammation.
Methods
Three independent placebo-controlled double-blinded studies were conducted on female panellists who were pretreated on sites on their backs for 2 weeks with skin care formulations which contained 0.3% or 1% pHCA with 5% Nam, 1% pHCA alone, 1.8% octinoxate, or control formula. Treated sites were then exposed to 1.5 minimal erythemal dose (MED) solar simulated radiation (SSR) and had chromameter and expert grading measures for erythema, barrier integrity via TEWL, and the skin surface IL-1RA/IL-1α inflammatory biomarkers isolated from D-Squame tapes.
Results
Across the three independent studies, pHCA alone or in combination with Nam showed a significant mitigation of UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and levels of the surface inflammatory biomarkers IL-1RA/IL-1α. The cinnamate analogue Octinoxate did not replicate the effects of pHCA.
Conclusion
The study results show that pHCA alone or in combination with Nam can mitigate UV-induced damage to skin. These include mitigation of UV-induced erythema as measured by instrument and expert grade visualization. Additionally, pHCA with Nam protected damage to the barrier and reduced the induction of the SASP-related surface inflammatory biomarker IL-1RA/IL-1α. The inability of Octinoxate to have any protective effect and the detection of low levels of pHCA on skin surface after 24 h of application supports that these effects are based on a biological response to pHCA. These findings add to the body of evidence that pHCA alone or in combination with Nam can enhance the skin's biological response to UV-induced damage. This supports pHCA can potentially impact aging and senescence, thereby maintain skin's functionality and appearance.
{"title":"Mitigation of ultraviolet-induced erythema and inflammation by para-hydroxycinnamic acid in human skin","authors":"William P. Janson, Laurie E. Breyfogle, John C. Bierman, Zhi Yan Chew, Matthew C. Ehrman, John E. Oblong","doi":"10.1111/ics.13002","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13002","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To evaluate whether <i>p</i>-hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) alone and in combination with niacinamide (Nam) can mitigate UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and inflammation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Three independent placebo-controlled double-blinded studies were conducted on female panellists who were pretreated on sites on their backs for 2 weeks with skin care formulations which contained 0.3% or 1% pHCA with 5% Nam, 1% pHCA alone, 1.8% octinoxate, or control formula. Treated sites were then exposed to 1.5 minimal erythemal dose (MED) solar simulated radiation (SSR) and had chromameter and expert grading measures for erythema, barrier integrity via TEWL, and the skin surface IL-1RA/IL-1α inflammatory biomarkers isolated from D-Squame tapes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Across the three independent studies, pHCA alone or in combination with Nam showed a significant mitigation of UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and levels of the surface inflammatory biomarkers IL-1RA/IL-1α. The cinnamate analogue Octinoxate did not replicate the effects of pHCA.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The study results show that pHCA alone or in combination with Nam can mitigate UV-induced damage to skin. These include mitigation of UV-induced erythema as measured by instrument and expert grade visualization. Additionally, pHCA with Nam protected damage to the barrier and reduced the induction of the SASP-related surface inflammatory biomarker IL-1RA/IL-1α. The inability of Octinoxate to have any protective effect and the detection of low levels of pHCA on skin surface after 24 h of application supports that these effects are based on a biological response to pHCA. These findings add to the body of evidence that pHCA alone or in combination with Nam can enhance the skin's biological response to UV-induced damage. This supports pHCA can potentially impact aging and senescence, thereby maintain skin's functionality and appearance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"91-100"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13002","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141975578","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tássyo Leandro da Silva, Jonas Gabriel de Oliveira Pinheiro, Arthur Thomaz Coutinho de Moura, Christovam Gondim Maia Neto, Francisco Lucas Pereira Correia, Marcielle Sayuri Kubo Comin, Rafaela Costa Ferreira da Silva, Samara Vitória Ferreira de Araújo, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes Barreto, Artur de Santana Oliveira, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito Damasceno, Márcio Ferrari
<div> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p><i>Prosopis juliflora</i>, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of <i>P. juliflora</i> fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC–MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13–14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 μg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusion</h3> <p>This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the <i>P. juliflor</i>a production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibili
{"title":"Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products","authors":"Tássyo Leandro da Silva, Jonas Gabriel de Oliveira Pinheiro, Arthur Thomaz Coutinho de Moura, Christovam Gondim Maia Neto, Francisco Lucas Pereira Correia, Marcielle Sayuri Kubo Comin, Rafaela Costa Ferreira da Silva, Samara Vitória Ferreira de Araújo, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes Barreto, Artur de Santana Oliveira, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito Damasceno, Márcio Ferrari","doi":"10.1111/ics.13018","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13018","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p><i>Prosopis juliflora</i>, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of <i>P. juliflora</i> fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC–MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13–14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 μg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the <i>P. juliflor</i>a production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibili","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"101-112"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141975568","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Thomas A. Meyer, Rachel Blinder, Martin Vethamuthu, Valerie George, Adebayo A. Adeniyi, Neha Manhas, Parvesh Singh
Background
Use of permanent hair dyes causes unintended oxidative damage during the short time frame of the dyeing process that leads to perceivable changes in the feel, manageability and appearance of hair. Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality.
Objective
To document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour.
Results
We demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca+2 ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α-tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28-day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28-day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner.
Conclusion
This work establishes MAZ as a next-generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.
背景：使用永久性染发剂会在染发过程的短时间内造成意外的氧化损伤，导致头发的触感、易打理性和外观发生明显变化。此外，染发后，经常暴露在阳光下作为一种主要的环境压力源，会继续刺激更多的氧化损伤，并导致新染发颜色过早褪色或颜色质量发生变化：目的：记录乙酰辛格酮甲醚（MAZ）作为一种新设计的护发成分的效用，以提供额外的保护，防止氧化损伤并保护发色的完整性：结果：我们证明 MAZ 与染发过程所需的高碱性条件具有化学兼容性，而且根据理论计算，相对于 Ca 或 Zn 离子，MAZ 更倾向于结合 Fe 和 Cu 离子。在模型芬顿反应中，MAZ 能在过量 Ca+2 离子存在的情况下有效螯合活性氧化还原金属（Fe 和 Cu 离子），从而抑制羟基自由基的产生；在单独的研究中，MAZ 中和单线态氧的效率比 α-生育酚高 2.5 倍。在涂抹发丝前将 MAZ 混入永久性染发剂中，MAZ 能显著降低梳理力，扫描电镜图像也能显著减少表面损伤的视觉痕迹。在一项为期 28 天的临床研究中，与对照组相比，在使用染发剂前将 MAZ 混入染发剂中既不会影响染发剂的显色效果，也不会影响遮盖白发的能力，而且在染发过程结束后，与头发状况相关的感知属性会立即得到明显改善。在 28 天的维持阶段，特别是在第 14 天和第 28 天之间，与使用对照组洗发水和护发素相比，持续使用含有 MAZ 的洗发水和护发素可显著保持光泽度测量值和发色，在持久性和发色质量方面保持理想和新鲜：这项研究将 MAZ 定义为新一代护发成分，可用于永久性染发剂以减轻氧化损伤，也可用于洗发水和护发素以促进发色的持久性并保持头发的整体健康和日常美观。
{"title":"Acetyl zingerone methyl ether protects hair against oxidative damage incurred during and after treatment with permanent dyes and helps extend longevity of newly developed hair colour","authors":"Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Thomas A. Meyer, Rachel Blinder, Martin Vethamuthu, Valerie George, Adebayo A. Adeniyi, Neha Manhas, Parvesh Singh","doi":"10.1111/ics.13000","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13000","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Use of permanent hair dyes causes unintended oxidative damage during the short time frame of the dyeing process that leads to perceivable changes in the feel, manageability and appearance of hair. Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca<sup>+2</sup> ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α-tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28-day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28-day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This work establishes MAZ as a next-generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"73-90"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141971090","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Huijun Phoebe Tham, Kah Yuen Yip, Srinivasulu Aitipamula, Srinivasa Reddy Mothe, Wenguang Zhao, Ping Sen Choong, Ayca Altay Benetti, Wanjuan Evonne Gan, Fong Yew Leong, Praveen Thoniyot, Thomas L. Dawson Jr
Objective
This research investigates how particle parameters, such as zeta potential, size, functional group, material composition, and hydrophobicity affect their affinity and deposition of particles onto hair.
Methods
Streaming potential was used as the technique for analysis. The streaming potential data obtained was then converted to surface coverage data. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was also done to visualize particle localization on the hair surface.
Results
This study found stronger particle affinity on healthy than on damaged (oxidatively bleached) hair, due to diminished interaction sites from the removal of the hair shaft's external lipid layer. SEM imaging supported these findings and offered insights into particle localization. Hydrophilic silica particles accumulated along the exposed hydrophilic cuticle edges of healthy hair, due to hydrogen bonding with the exposed endocuticle. This localization is hypothesized to be due to the limited hydrophilic binding sites on the hydrophobic healthy hair cuticle surface. In damaged hair, an abundance of hydrophilic sites across the cuticle surface results in more dispersed binding. Hydrogen bonding and electrostatic attraction were shown to be the predominant forces influencing deposition, with hydrophobic interactions playing a less influential role. The affinity studies also proved that electrostatic attractions work over a longer range and are more effective at lower particle conditions compared with hydrogen bonding which only start to play a bigger role at higher particle concentrations. Steric hindrance of bulky side groups acted as a significant repulsive force. Results also revealed that larger particles deposit poorly on both healthy and damaged hair compared with smaller ones. Compared with neutrally charged silica nanoparticles (SN-2), positively charged PMMA particles (PN+16) have a stronger affinity to healthy hair, with highly charged particles (PN+49) depositing most rapidly.
Conclusion
This study provides a fundamental understanding of how particle–surface parameters influence their affinity to hair and how damaging hair affects deposition.
{"title":"Influence of particle parameters on deposition onto healthy and damaged human hair","authors":"Huijun Phoebe Tham, Kah Yuen Yip, Srinivasulu Aitipamula, Srinivasa Reddy Mothe, Wenguang Zhao, Ping Sen Choong, Ayca Altay Benetti, Wanjuan Evonne Gan, Fong Yew Leong, Praveen Thoniyot, Thomas L. Dawson Jr","doi":"10.1111/ics.12994","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12994","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This research investigates how particle parameters, such as zeta potential, size, functional group, material composition, and hydrophobicity affect their affinity and deposition of particles onto hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Streaming potential was used as the technique for analysis. The streaming potential data obtained was then converted to surface coverage data. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was also done to visualize particle localization on the hair surface.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study found stronger particle affinity on healthy than on damaged (oxidatively bleached) hair, due to diminished interaction sites from the removal of the hair shaft's external lipid layer. SEM imaging supported these findings and offered insights into particle localization. Hydrophilic silica particles accumulated along the exposed hydrophilic cuticle edges of healthy hair, due to hydrogen bonding with the exposed endocuticle. This localization is hypothesized to be due to the limited hydrophilic binding sites on the hydrophobic healthy hair cuticle surface. In damaged hair, an abundance of hydrophilic sites across the cuticle surface results in more dispersed binding. Hydrogen bonding and electrostatic attraction were shown to be the predominant forces influencing deposition, with hydrophobic interactions playing a less influential role. The affinity studies also proved that electrostatic attractions work over a longer range and are more effective at lower particle conditions compared with hydrogen bonding which only start to play a bigger role at higher particle concentrations. Steric hindrance of bulky side groups acted as a significant repulsive force. Results also revealed that larger particles deposit poorly on both healthy and damaged hair compared with smaller ones. Compared with neutrally charged silica nanoparticles (SN-2), positively charged PMMA particles (PN+16) have a stronger affinity to healthy hair, with highly charged particles (PN+49) depositing most rapidly.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study provides a fundamental understanding of how particle–surface parameters influence their affinity to hair and how damaging hair affects deposition.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"58-72"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12994","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141971091","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein (HCP) derived from pearl and nacre extracts exerts skin-lightening effects; however, the underlying molecular mechanisms are not fully understood. Herein, we investigated the effect of HCP on melanogenesis and the signalling pathways involved.
Methods
B16F10 cells and PIG cells were treated with HCP to verify its ability to inhibit melanin. Western Blot, immunofluorescence, and flow cytometry methods were performed to investigate the effect of HCP on melanogenesis signalling pathway proteins. The inhibitors were used to further validate the effect of HCP on PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways. To further evaluate the whitening ability of HCP, changes in melanin were detected using 3D melanin skin model and zebrafish model.
Results
HCP was found to significantly inhibit melanin synthesis and decrease the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein-2, in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, we revealed that HCP suppresses melanogenesis via the regulation of the PKA/cAMP response element-binding (CREB) and MEK/extracellular signalling-regulated kinase (ERK) signalling pathways. Using 3D melanin skin models, we demonstrated that HCP can achieve skin-lightening effects by improving apparent chroma, increasing apparent brightness, and inhibiting melanin synthesis. Furthermore, HCP exhibits skin-whitening effects in a zebrafish model.
Conclusion
These results suggest that HCP suppresses the melanogenesis signalling cascade by inhibiting the PKA/CREB, MEK/ERK signalling pathway and downregulating MITF and its downstream signalling pathways, resulting in decreased melanin synthesis. In summary, HCP is a potential anti-pigmentation agent with promising applications in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.
{"title":"Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein inhibits melanogenesis through PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways","authors":"Yaqi Zhang, Sisi Wang, Anquan Yang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13012","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13012","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein (HCP) derived from pearl and nacre extracts exerts skin-lightening effects; however, the underlying molecular mechanisms are not fully understood. Herein, we investigated the effect of HCP on melanogenesis and the signalling pathways involved.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>B16F10 cells and PIG cells were treated with HCP to verify its ability to inhibit melanin. Western Blot, immunofluorescence, and flow cytometry methods were performed to investigate the effect of HCP on melanogenesis signalling pathway proteins. The inhibitors were used to further validate the effect of HCP on PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways. To further evaluate the whitening ability of HCP, changes in melanin were detected using 3D melanin skin model and zebrafish model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>HCP was found to significantly inhibit melanin synthesis and decrease the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein-2, in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, we revealed that HCP suppresses melanogenesis via the regulation of the PKA/cAMP response element-binding (CREB) and MEK/extracellular signalling-regulated kinase (ERK) signalling pathways. Using 3D melanin skin models, we demonstrated that HCP can achieve skin-lightening effects by improving apparent chroma, increasing apparent brightness, and inhibiting melanin synthesis. Furthermore, HCP exhibits skin-whitening effects in a zebrafish model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These results suggest that HCP suppresses the melanogenesis signalling cascade by inhibiting the PKA/CREB, MEK/ERK signalling pathway and downregulating MITF and its downstream signalling pathways, resulting in decreased melanin synthesis. In summary, HCP is a potential anti-pigmentation agent with promising applications in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"31-44"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13012","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141916664","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Bezaleel Mambwe, Kieran T. Mellody, Orsolya Kiss, Clare O'Connor, Mike Bell, Rachel E. B. Watson, Abigail K. Langton
The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal–epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the ‘gold standard’ for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.
{"title":"Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action","authors":"Bezaleel Mambwe, Kieran T. Mellody, Orsolya Kiss, Clare O'Connor, Mike Bell, Rachel E. B. Watson, Abigail K. Langton","doi":"10.1111/ics.13013","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13013","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal–epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-<i>trans</i> retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-<i>trans</i> retinoic acid is considered the ‘gold standard’ for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"45-57"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13013","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141916663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Alexandra D'Arcangelis, Sayantani Goswami Chatterjee, Isabel Diaz, Sabine Guehenneux, Jin Namkoong, Joanna Wu
Objective
Periorbital skin ageing signs are multidimensional, highly visible and a concern for many. We evaluated the potential efficacy of an eye cream to diminish these signs.
Methods
Biological markers associated with ageing, barrier function and homeostasis were analysed in vitro to determine the effects of topically applied eye cream, compared to those of a placebo using human skin tissue models and/or explants. Collagen IV, elastin and bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4) expression was investigated by immunohistochemical labelling, while filaggrin, kallikrein 7 (KLK7) and HB-EGF were evaluated by RT-qPCR. IL-1α and melanin levels in darkly pigmented skin models were also quantified. The protective effect of the cream on glycation was assessed by a non-enzymatic assay. Finally, the benefits of twice-daily applications of the eye cream for 56 days were instrumentally and clinically evaluated on 33 women.
Results
Only the eye cream, not the placebo, stimulated collagen IV and BMP4 protein expression, as well as increased elastin fibre length. It also led to higher HB-EGF, filaggrin and KLK7 mRNA levels. The placebo and the eye cream did not induce changes in IL-1α and melanin levels, but both reduced non-enzymatic glycation. When assessing the in vivo effects of the cream, short-term results indicated skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin profilometry improvement within 15 min. Instrumental evaluations of wrinkles showed a reduction after 7 days, which was clinically perceivable after 28 or 56 days. The eye-opening angle and eyelid sagging also improved after seven and 28 days, respectively. Finally, dark circles became lighter within 7 days (instrumental measurement) or 28 days (clinical assessment).
Conclusion
The instrumental and clinical evaluations revealed that the eye cream reduced all periorbital ageing signs evaluated. Its effects are supported by the in vitro and ex vivo analyses of molecular markers.
{"title":"In vitro, ex vivo, instrumental and clinical evaluation of a topical cream on the signs of periorbital ageing","authors":"Alexandra D'Arcangelis, Sayantani Goswami Chatterjee, Isabel Diaz, Sabine Guehenneux, Jin Namkoong, Joanna Wu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12987","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12987","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Periorbital skin ageing signs are multidimensional, highly visible and a concern for many. We evaluated the potential efficacy of an eye cream to diminish these signs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Biological markers associated with ageing, barrier function and homeostasis were analysed in vitro to determine the effects of topically applied eye cream, compared to those of a placebo using human skin tissue models and/or explants. Collagen IV, elastin and bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4) expression was investigated by immunohistochemical labelling, while filaggrin, kallikrein 7 (KLK7) and HB-EGF were evaluated by RT-qPCR. IL-1α and melanin levels in darkly pigmented skin models were also quantified. The protective effect of the cream on glycation was assessed by a non-enzymatic assay. Finally, the benefits of twice-daily applications of the eye cream for 56 days were instrumentally and clinically evaluated on 33 women.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Only the eye cream, not the placebo, stimulated collagen IV and BMP4 protein expression, as well as increased elastin fibre length. It also led to higher HB-EGF, filaggrin and KLK7 mRNA levels. The placebo and the eye cream did not induce changes in IL-1α and melanin levels, but both reduced non-enzymatic glycation. When assessing the in vivo effects of the cream, short-term results indicated skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin profilometry improvement within 15 min. Instrumental evaluations of wrinkles showed a reduction after 7 days, which was clinically perceivable after 28 or 56 days. The eye-opening angle and eyelid sagging also improved after seven and 28 days, respectively. Finally, dark circles became lighter within 7 days (instrumental measurement) or 28 days (clinical assessment).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The instrumental and clinical evaluations revealed that the eye cream reduced all periorbital ageing signs evaluated. Its effects are supported by the in vitro and ex vivo analyses of molecular markers.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"18-30"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12987","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141906605","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Gai-xiang Wang, Wei-cheng Fei, Lei-lei Zhi, Xue-dong Bai, Bing You
Objective
The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE and Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.
Methods
We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H2O2-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.
Results
Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H2O2-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H2O2-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.
Conclusion
This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.
{"title":"Fermented tea leave extract against oxidative stress and ageing of skin in vitro and in vivo","authors":"Gai-xiang Wang, Wei-cheng Fei, Lei-lei Zhi, Xue-dong Bai, Bing You","doi":"10.1111/ics.12976","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12976","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with <i>Eurotium cristatum</i> PLT-PE and <i>Saccharomyces boulardii</i> PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"1-17"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141906591","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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