International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

Objective: This research assesses a novel cosmetic ingredient blending Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower extract and dipeptide-4 (LA-DP4, hereafter 'the blend'), for its potential to mitigate oxidative and glycation damage, boost autophagy and regulate circadian rhythms.

Methods: Using fibroblast, full-thickness skin models and ex vivo human skin, we measured markers like phosphorylated H2AX (γ-H2AX), reactive oxygen species (ROS), ATP, superoxide dismutase (SOD) and advanced glycation end products (AGEs), alongside effects on autophagic markers, melatonin production and extracellular matrix components.

Results: The blend significantly reduced γ-H2AX and ROS levels in UVA-stimulated fibroblasts, enhanced ATP and SOD levels, decreased AGEs in ex vivo tissues and improved tissue morphology in full-thickness models. Notably, it increased melatonin production and autophagic markers LC3a and LC3b, indicating a comprehensive role in skin health.

Conclusion: The blend addresses skin ageing by offering multifaceted benefits: antioxidant, anti-glycation, autophagy enhancement and melatonin production, marking a pioneering contribution to cosmetic ingredients that significantly boost melatonin production. Our findings advance the understanding of in vitro and ex vivo efficacy testing methods for these properties, aiding cosmeceutical development.

Objective: The systemic absorption of active ingredients in commercial sunscreens has raised safety concerns. This has created a need for advanced delivery systems that can enhance efficacy while minimising skin penetration. A promising solution is the encapsulation of sunscreen agents within microcapsules. The objective of this study is to demonstrate a simple and controllable method based on microfluidics for the preparation of sunscreen microcapsules with high ultraviolet absorption, good thermal stability, enhanced monodispersity and improved UV absorption performance.

Methods: A microfluidics-assisted method was employed to encapsulate a typical chemical UV filter, octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), within biodegradable poly(lactic acid) (PLA) microcapsules using a commercial Corning Advanced-Flow microreactor. The effects of residence time on the morphology, size, encapsulation efficiency (EE) and loading capacity (LC) of the microcapsules were examined through comprehensive characterisation. Sun protection factor (SPF), UV stability and skin penetration of the microcapsules were also assessed, with release kinetics investigated by different models.

Results: The microfluidics-prepared microcapsules exhibited a uniform spherical morphology with adjustable sizes (10-38 μm), high encapsulation efficiency (>95%) and loading capacity (>22%). Compared to microcapsules prepared by the homogenisation method, the microfluidics-prepared ones displayed improved monodispersity and UV absorption performance. These improvements arise from microfluidics' precise control over droplet formation and narrow residence time distribution. Moreover, formulations containing OMC-loaded microcapsules achieved a 113% increase in SPF and significantly enhanced UV stability, along with a 50% reduction in skin permeation of OMC.

Conclusions: This study highlights the significant potential of microfluidics encapsulation for producing uniform sunscreen microcapsules with enhanced efficacy, stability and safety. By minimising systemic absorption while improving UV protection, this approach meets growing regulatory and consumer demands for safer, high-performance sunscreen formulations. These findings offer valuable insights for advancing next-generation cosmetic products.

Objectives: Innovation is considered a determining factor in the highly competitive environment of the cosmetic industry to introduce products while creating new needs. The goal of the study consisted of developing a highly natural and minimalist emulsion with sensorially pleasant skin application highlighted by an innovative ingredient based on a Ca²⁺ double cone vector system. The desired product characteristics include a creamy, white texture that is not too greasy or excessively whitening, with rapid skin penetration to facilitate its use for skin treatment.

Methods: To determine the ideal composition of the emulsion, a design of experiment (DoE) based strategy was applied in two steps: a screening step followed by optimisation. The screening step aimed to identify the key potential ingredients and process parameters that have a significant impact on the rheological and textural properties of the emulsion. The optimisation step provided the final emulsion formula with the desired physicochemical parameters and sensory characteristics.

Results: After rheological and sensory analysis, the screening of different ingredients revealed that the combination of 0.8% xanthan gum as the thickening agent (TA), glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-3 stearate and hydrogenated lecithin as surfactant S1, and 1% of a mixture of C15-19 alkane (plant-based and renewable) - coco-caprylate/caprate as the sensory agent (SA1) provided the best sensorial qualities for the emulsion. The study demonstrated that the deflocculating rod met one of optimisation's target criteria through its process effect.

Conclusion: Based on DoE, the final formulation resulted in a visually white formulation that was neither too greasy nor excessively whitening and highly penetrative of the skin, offering a comfortable face or body cream application for adults and children.

This review offers an in-depth exploration of the bioactivities, extraction techniques, formulation approaches and practical uses of naturally derived antioxidants in anti-ageing skincare. A critical analysis of the literature was performed. Extracts from leaves, aerial parts, seeds, peels, fruits and barks exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and anti-tyrosinase activities. Natural-based antioxidants exhibit a wide range of bioactivities as neutralizing free radicals through mechanisms such as metal chelation and activation of cellular antioxidant pathways (e.g. Nrf2/ARE) and anti-inflammatory effects by modulating cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6 and promoting wound healing by stimulating collagen synthesis and bioactive compound production. Extracts from Mucuna species, Magnolia officinalis and Arbutus unedo, for instance, demonstrate anti-ageing efficacy by inhibiting enzymes such as collagenase, elastase and MMPs. Certain fruit and seed extracts provide photoprotection with high SPF values, while others-such as mushroom extracts and essential oils-display potent antimicrobial activity. Their bioactivity is often enhanced through fermentation processes, innovative delivery systems like liposomes, niosomes and polymeric micelles, which improve stability, bioavailability and topical effectiveness. Extraction methods for natural antioxidants-including aqueous, hydroalcoholic, ultrasound-assisted (UAE), fermentation-assisted and alternative solvent (NaDES) techniques-are crucial for recovering and stabilizing bioactive compounds. Emerging green technologies such as supercritical CO₂ extraction (SC-CO₂), subcritical water extraction (SWE), supramolecular solvents (SUPRAS) and cloud point extraction (CPE) offer sustainable and selective recovery of bioactives with reduced environmental impact. These bioactives address oxidative stress, UV damage and dermal ageing, offering multifunctional applications in cosmeceuticals, pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals. However, challenges such as photostability, inconsistent bioavailability and regulatory hurdles persist. Future research focusing on synergistic formulations, clinical validation and microbiome-friendly antioxidants will drive their advancement in next-generation sustainable skincare.

Objective: This study aims to use electrokinetic analysis to investigate the deposition behaviour and conditioning efficacy of cationic surfactants on human hair, focusing on how surfactant structure, concentration and hair damage influence performance. It also aims to understand the mechanisms governing surfactant adsorption and their impact on hair manageability and health.

Methods: This research employed streaming potential measurements-including pH-dependent, time-dependent and concentration-dependent zeta (ζ)-potential studies-alongside wet combing analyses and ATR-FTIR spectroscopy to evaluate the adsorption affinity and conditioning effects of four cationic surfactants: behentrimonium chloride (BTMC), behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC) and stearylalkonium chloride (STAC). A simplified model surface using silicon oxide (Si | SiO₂) wafers was also utilized to isolate the influence of hair's natural variability and fibrous structure.

Results: Longer-chain surfactants like BTMC showed superior deposition and conditioning due to stronger van der Waals interactions, while bulky groups in STAC hindered deposition. BTMC outperformed BTMS, likely due to the chloride counterion's higher mobility. BTMC and BTMS were superior against CTAC and STAC due to their longer carbon chain length. Wet combing analyses revealed that BTMC significantly reduced combing forces, improving manageability, whereas STAC fared the worst due to its low adsorption. However, ATR-FTIR analysis indicated no reversal of oxidative damage, suggesting conditioners improve manageability without repairing structural damage.

Conclusion: The study highlights the importance of surfactant molecular structure-such as carbon chain length and counterion type-in deposition efficiency and conditioning performance, providing valuable insights for developing more effective hair care formulations. By leveraging electrokinetic analyses in the form of streaming potential experiments, we were able to quantitatively assess adsorption behaviour, ζ-potential changes and the dynamic interactions between surfactants and hair. These findings enhance the understanding of cationic surfactant-hair interactions, offering practical implications for optimizing conditioners to improve user experience and hair health.

Background: Chronic UVA exposure leads to oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation and DNA photodamage, resulting in clinical manifestations of photoaging. In addition to UV filtering, multifunctional sunscreens enriched with antioxidants and humectants may support skin barrier repair and inflammation mitigation.

Aim: To evaluate efficacy against UVA-induced photoaging by assessing (i) post-UVA reparative effects in a 3D skin model and (ii) the clinical effect of once-daily use over 28 days in Chinese women.

Methods: A 3D full-thickness human skin model was exposed to UVA (35 J/cm²) as a single-challenge stressor and then treated with the sunscreen emulsion to assess residual CPD levels measured post-irradiation, epidermal thickness, fibroblast density and collagen remodelling. In parallel, a 28-day clinical study in 63 Chinese women assessed hydration, TEWL, elasticity, redness and dermatologist-graded signs of aging following once-daily facial application.

Results: In vitro, when applied after UVA exposure, the formulation reduced residual CPD levels measured post-irradiation (-68.1%), restored epidermal thickness (+109.7%) and fibroblast density (+131.1%), and upregulated collagen types I, IV, VII and XVII. Clinically, the emulsion improved hydration (+33.7%), reduced TEWL (-15.6%), increased elasticity (+14.0%) and attenuated facial redness (-73.7%). Dermatologist grading confirmed significant improvements in wrinkles, firmness and tone evenness.

Conclusions: This dual-model evaluation demonstrates that the multifunctional sunscreen emulsion not only provides broad-spectrum photoprotection but also supports structural repair and barrier function in UVA-compromised skin. These findings support its potential as an integrated solution for photoprotection and anti-photoaging care in Asian populations.

While androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is primarily driven by excessive 5-α reductase (5-αR) activity, further mechanisms also contribute to the development of AGA and other hair loss disorders. Here, we explored the properties of the proprietary lipidosterolic extracts of the plant Serenoa repens (LSESr), also known as Saw Palmetto, focusing on USPlus® DERM Bioactive Fatty Acids (USPlus® DERM). USPlus® DERM contains concentrated levels of bioactive free fatty acids (FFAs) that are integral lipids found in the hair shaft and modulate pathways relevant to hair follicle (HF) function. Therefore, USPlus® DERM promises to have both 5-αR-dependent and also -independent hair growth-promoting effects. Here, we initially confirmed the 5-αR inhibitor activity of USPlus® DERM in primary human hair follicle dermal papilla cells. USPlus® DERM exhibited a more potent 5-αR inhibition than a standard, commercially available saw palmetto extract and a standardized LSESr meeting the US Pharmacopoeia monograph, with IC₅₀ values of 0.39, 29.1 and 9.1 μg/mL respectively. To explore potential 5-αR-independent responses, USPlus® DERM was administered at two different concentrations, 0.4 and 10 μg/mL, to androgen-independent, 'clinically healthy' full-length HFs ex vivo obtained from the occipital scalp of male donors, in the absence of testosterone. Interestingly, USPlus® DERM at 0.4 μg/mL significantly reduced the number of melanin clumps, regarded as signs of organ culture mediated stress conditions. Despite inter-donor variations, USPlus® DERM prolonged anagen ex vivo, particularly at the low concentration, evidenced by a significant reduction in the hair cycle score and the tendency to boost hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation (Ki-67⁺cells). USPlus® DERM did not affect dermal papilla inductivity, as measured by versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity. While the percentage of K15⁺ epithelial HF stem cells (eHFSC) remained unaffected, 0.4 μg/mL USPlus® DERM tendentially enhanced K15 expression and reduced the number of Ki-67⁺K15⁺ cells, indicating reinforcement of the eHFSCs niche. These preliminary findings suggest that USPlus® DERM has the potential to promote hair growth and to enhance HFSC stemness in the 'clinically predictive' HF organ culture model, independently from 5-αR inhibition. Thus, USPlus® DERM deserves to be further investigated as an anti-hair loss strategy, for not only AGA management but also other hair loss disorders.

Objective: Oxidative stress and its induced protein alterations are instrumental in the early onset and progression of ageing. To protect the skin proteome, we evaluated the extract of a bacterium isolated from snowflakes (Arthrobacter agilis). This Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE) has been found to be rich in bacterioruberins, C-50 unsaturated carotenoids with potent antioxidative properties.

Methods: The Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE), having protective effect against oxidative, saline, and heat stresses, was evaluated in tubo. Protection against protein carbonylation was assessed in human primary keratinocytes and skin explants subjected to various stresses. The impact of an AAE-containing cream on protein carbonylation was analysed on the face of 23 smokers after 28 days.

Results: In tubo, AAE protects alkaline phosphatase against oxidative and heat stresses, increasing the temperature at which BSA is denatured. It also partially prevented elastin aggregation induced by a salt stress. In human primary keratinocytes exposed to UV, particulate matter (PM), or blue light, AAE reduced protein carbonylation, a marker of oxidative stress in the proteome. When formulated in creams, topical applications prevent protein carbonylation in the epidermis and dermis of skin explants co-exposed to UV and PM. Furthermore, after 28 days of application, protein carbonylation was reduced in the upper skin layers of smokers.

Conclusions: AAE protects the proteome against oxidative stress via a dual mode of action: antioxidant and chaperone-like activities (as demonstrated by protection against heat and salt). AAE is a promising age-management compound that safeguards the fragile skin ecosystem in an ecobiological approach, protecting the effectors of healthy skin functioning and reinforcing natural defences when overwhelmed.

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a paradigm shift as consumers increasingly seek sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. This shift has led to a resurgence of interest in natural products, perceived as healthier and environmentally responsible. This review critically explores the integration of plant-based ingredients into cosmetic formulations, outlining their bioactivities, safety considerations, and industry implications. By systematically analysing reviewed evidence and market data, the review identifies current applications, emerging opportunities, and research gaps in skincare, haircare, perfumery, oral care, and lip care sectors. In different cosmeceutical care, natural products like Aloe vera, Matricaria recutita, Camellia sinensis, Ziziphus spina-christi, Lemna minor, Annona muricata and various other plant extracts contribute to overall oral hygiene and lip health. Due to the escalating demand for sustainable beauty materials, this review finds major outcome of plant-based ingredients in shaping the future of cosmetic innovations worldwide.

Objective: Research on female facial attractiveness has focused on the effects of face shape and skin condition. Few studies have investigated the impact of hair on assessments of female attractiveness. Research using images of computer-generated (rendered) hair has demonstrated that subtle variations in hair thickness, density and style affect perceptions of female age, health and attractiveness.

Method: The current study consisted of two experiments in which non-expert female panellists viewed distinct expressions of specific hair features and judged them for age, health and attractiveness. In Experiment 1, women from three countries (Germany, Spain and USA; n = 500 each) judged high-shine and low-shine versions of natural Caucasian hair wigs on a female target-photographed from right back (3/4 view)-for age, health and attractiveness. In Experiment 2, professional stylists manipulated shine, alignment and volume of natural Caucasian hair wigs, creating two versions-one high and one low in each feature-for blonde hair and brown hair. A woman with light skin pigmentation wore the wigs and was photographed in three head orientations under controlled lighting conditions. Omnibus pairwise combinations of hair conditions were created and judged by n = 2000 US women for age, health and attractiveness.

Results: Experiment 1 showed that, across countries, high-shine hair was rated more youthful, healthier and attractive than low-shine hair. Experiment 2 indicated that straight-aligned hair was perceived as most youthful, healthy and attractive, regardless of hair colour and head orientation. High shine also was preferred, although its impact was weaker than that of hair alignment.

Conclusion: Straight-aligned hair, together with shine, affects female appearance and this influence is noticeable even with small (mobile phone-sized) images.