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Modification of dehydrated bacterial cellulose with glycerol and succinic acid by using padding method for textile applications 用甘油和琥珀酸对脱水细菌纤维素进行改性,并将其应用于纺织业
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-01-05 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-10-2023-0111
Hung Ngoc Phan, S. Okubayashi
PurposeDehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC modification method using glycerol and succinic acid with catalyst and heat, applied via an industrially scalable padding method to tackle BC’s stiffness drawbacks and enhance BC properties.Design/methodology/approachFabric-like BC is generated via mechanical dehydration and then finished by using padding method with glycerol, succinic acid, catalyst and heat. Comprehensive material characterizations, including international testing standards for stiffness, bending properties (cantilever method), tensile properties, moisture vapor transmission rate, moisture content and regain, washing, thermal gravimetric analysis, derivative thermogravimetry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and colorimetric measurement, are used.FindingsThe combination of BC/glycerol/succinic acid dramatically enhanced porous structure, elongation (27.40 ± 6.39%), flexibility (flexural rigidity of 21.46 ± 4.01 µN m; bending modulus of 97.45 ± 18.20 MPa) and moisture management (moisture vapor transmission rate of 961.07 ± 86.16 g/m2/24 h; moisture content of 27.43 ± 2.50%; and moisture regain of 37.94 ± 4.73%). This softening process modified the thermal stability of BC. Besides, this study alleviated the drawbacks for washing (five cycles) of BC and glycerol caused by the ineffective affinity between glycerol and cellulose by adding succinic acid with catalyst and heat.Originality/valueThe study yields an effective padding process for BC softening and a unique modified BC to contribute added value to textile and leather industries as a sustainable alternative to existing materials and a premise for future research on BC functionalization by using doable technologies in mass production as padding.
目的脱水细菌纤维素(BC)固有的刚性限制了其在纺织品、皮革、医疗保健和其他领域的应用。本研究旨在利用甘油和琥珀酸以及催化剂和热量,通过一种可工业化扩展的填充方法,产生一种新颖的细菌纤维素改性方法,以解决细菌纤维素刚度不足的问题,并增强细菌纤维素的性能。设计/方法/途径通过机械脱水生成织物状细菌纤维素,然后利用甘油、琥珀酸、催化剂和热量通过填充方法完成改性。采用了全面的材料表征方法,包括刚度、弯曲性能(悬臂法)、拉伸性能、湿气透过率、含水率和回潮率、洗涤、热重分析、导数热重分析、傅立叶变换红外光谱和比色测量等国际测试标准。研究结果萃取物/甘油/丁二酸的组合极大地增强了多孔结构、伸长率(27.40 ± 6.39%)、柔韧性(弯曲刚度为 21.46 ± 4.01 µN m;弯曲模量为 97.45 ± 18.20 MPa)和湿度管理(水蒸气透过率为 961.07 ± 86.16 g/m2/24 h;含水量为 27.43 ± 2.50%;回潮率为 37.94 ± 4.73%)。这一软化过程改变了 BC 的热稳定性。此外,这项研究还通过在催化剂中添加琥珀酸并加热,缓解了甘油和纤维素之间的亲和力不强所导致的 BC 和甘油洗涤(五个循环)的缺点。
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引用次数: 0
Key terms and topics of muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for older adults using text mining and semantic network analyses 利用文本挖掘和语义网络分析研究老年人肌肉支持和姿势矫正可穿戴机器人的关键术语和主题
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-01-02 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2023-0087
Wujun Tang, Jiwon Chung, Sumin Koo
Purpose This study aims to conduct text mining and semantic network analysis of muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for the elderly to understand key terms related to the topic and to identify considerations for developing these types of clothing. Design/methodology/approach The authors searched and identified the key terms wearable robot, muscle-supportive, posture correction and elderly using the text-mining software Textom to extract terms as well as the network analysis software UCINET 6 to process and visualize the relationships among the terms. The authors compared and analyzed the term frequency (TF), the TF-inverse document frequency and the degree centrality of the terms, and the authors visualized and summarized the terms using NetDraw. Findings The key terms and their relationships in 3–4 groups were identified: wearable robot, muscle-supportive, posture correction and elderly. The authors identified the aspects of designing muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for the elderly. Originality/value This study contributes to the field of muscle-supportive clothing and wearable robotics by deriving insights into what people are discussing and interested in, and by offering recommendations when developing these types of clothing for the elderly.
目的 本研究旨在对老年人肌肉支撑型和姿势矫正型可穿戴机器人进行文本挖掘和语义网络分析,以了解与该主题相关的关键术语,并确定开发此类服装的注意事项。 设计/方法/步骤 作者使用文本挖掘软件 Textom 提取术语,并使用网络分析软件 UCINET 6 处理和可视化术语之间的关系,从而搜索并确定了可穿戴机器人、肌肉支撑、姿势矫正和老年人等关键术语。作者对术语频率(TF)、TF-反文档频率和术语的度中心性进行了比较和分析,并使用 NetDraw 对术语进行了可视化和总结。 研究结果 确定了 3-4 组关键术语及其关系:可穿戴机器人、肌肉支持、姿势矫正和老年人。作者确定了为老年人设计肌肉支持型和姿势矫正型可穿戴机器人的各个方面。 独创性/价值 本研究通过深入了解人们正在讨论和感兴趣的问题,并在为老年人开发这类服装时提出建议,为肌肉支撑服装和可穿戴机器人领域做出了贡献。
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引用次数: 0
Physical, thermal and mechanical properties of horse tail and mane hairs 马尾和鬃毛的物理、热和机械特性
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-12-26 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2023-0080
Sümeyye Üstüntağ, N. Paşayev
Purpose This study aims to comparatively reveal the physical, thermal and mechanical properties of horse tail and mane hairs, which have the potential to be used in many areas. Design/methodology/approach Physical properties of horsehairs such as diameter, density, moisture and water absorption were measured. Fourier transform infrared, field emission scanning electron microscopy and amino acid analyzes were applied to the hairs. Thermal stability of horsehair was investigated by thermogravimetric analysis and differential scanning calorimetry analysis. In addition, breaking strength and elongation values of mane and tail hairs were measured. Findings As a result of morphological analysis of horsehair, it was observed that there are usually gaps in the internal structure of horsehair, but the size and continuity of these gaps vary. It has been determined that there is a significant difference between the tenacity values of tail and mane hairs as well as geometric characteristics. In addition, amino acid analysis has shown that the amino acid contents of horse tail and mane hairs are similar and not much different from sheep’s wool. Originality/value Horsehair has been used for various purposes such as clothing, accessories, brushes, upholstery and reinforcement material. To use horsehair in accordance with its application area and performance characteristics, it is necessary to know its physical, thermal and mechanical properties. It is considerable to reveal the similar and different aspects of tail and mane hairs to determine whether they are alternatives to each other. Therefore, revealing the characteristics of tail and mane hairs comparatively constitutes the originality of this study.
目的 本研究旨在比较揭示马尾和鬃毛的物理、热和机械特性,马尾和鬃毛具有在许多领域使用的潜力。 设计/方法/步骤 测量马鬃的物理特性,如直径、密度、水分和吸水性。对马鬃进行了傅立叶变换红外光谱、场发射扫描电子显微镜和氨基酸分析。通过热重分析和差示扫描量热分析研究了马鬃的热稳定性。此外,还测量了鬃毛和尾毛的断裂强度和伸长值。 研究结果 马鬃的形态分析结果表明,马鬃的内部结构通常存在间隙,但这些间隙的大小和连续性各不相同。经测定,尾毛和鬃毛的韧性值以及几何特征之间存在显著差异。此外,氨基酸分析表明,马尾毛和鬃毛的氨基酸含量相似,与绵羊毛差别不大。 原创性/价值 马鬃被用于服装、饰品、刷子、室内装潢和加固材料等多种用途。要根据马鬃的应用领域和性能特点使用马鬃,就必须了解其物理、热和机械特性。揭示尾毛和鬃毛的相似和不同之处,以确定它们是否可以相互替代,是非常重要的。因此,比较揭示尾毛和鬃毛的特性是本研究的独创之处。
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引用次数: 0
Enzymatic easing of adhesion in honeydew-contaminated cotton for textile applications 酶法缓解受蜜露污染的棉花的粘附性,用于纺织业
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-12-20 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-06-2023-0064
P. Behera, K. N, Priyodip Paul, Sanjukta Aravind, Balaji S.
PurposeThe textile sector struggles with cotton stickiness from honeydew contamination. It hurts agriculture and marketability. This study aims to examine how bacterial enzymes could reduce honeydew-contaminated cotton adherence in textile businesses sustainably.Design/methodology/approachEnzyme was extracted from bacteria isolated from the fermented bamboo shoots “Lung siej”. The enzyme was tested for α-glucosidase using p-nitrophenyl-α-D-glucopyranoside as a substrate. Design of experiments determined enzyme activity temperature and reaction time. Laboratory-prepared artificial honeydew was added to ginning mill cotton to show honeydew contamination. After enzyme treatment, sticky cotton was tested for microscopic examination, ultraviolet (UV), Benedict’s, Elsner colorimetric, high volume instrument (HVI) and viscosity tests.FindingsThe bacterial isolate is characterized as Lysinibacillus sp. as confirmed by 16S rRNA gene sequencing. The enzyme extracted was identified as α-glucosidase. The ideal temperature and reaction time for enzymatic activity were 32 °C and 35 min, respectively, using central composite design. The microscopic examination, UV test, Benedict’s test, Elsner colorimetric test, HVI test and viscosity test showed that bacterial enzyme treatment reduced cotton fiber adherence.Originality/valueAlthough few patents have examined the effect of yeast enzymes, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, a bacterial enzyme is investigated for the first time to reduce the adhesion of honeydew-contaminated cotton.
目的 纺织部门一直在努力解决蜜露污染造成的棉花粘连问题。它损害了农业和市场竞争力。本研究旨在探讨细菌酵素如何可持续地减少纺织企业中受蜜露污染的棉花的粘附性。设计/方法/步骤从发酵竹笋 "Lung siej "中分离的细菌中提取酵素。以对硝基苯-α-D-吡喃葡萄糖苷为底物,对α-葡萄糖苷酶进行测试。实验设计确定了酶活性温度和反应时间。在轧花厂棉花中加入实验室制备的人工蜜露,以显示蜜露污染。酶处理后,对粘性棉花进行显微镜检查、紫外线(UV)、本尼迪克特(Benedict's)、埃尔斯纳比色法、高容量仪器(HVI)和粘度测试。提取的酶被鉴定为 α-葡萄糖苷酶。采用中心复合设计法,酶活性的理想温度和反应时间分别为 32 ℃ 和 35 分钟。显微镜检查、紫外线测试、本尼迪克特测试、埃尔斯纳比色测试、HVI 测试和粘度测试表明,细菌酶处理降低了棉纤维的粘附性。原创性/价值虽然很少有专利研究了酵母酶的效果,但据作者所知,这是首次研究细菌酶降低受蜜露污染棉花的粘附性。
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引用次数: 0
Dyeing of some Egyptian cotton varieties using agricultural wastes (peanut outer skin) 利用农业废弃物(花生外皮)对埃及的一些棉花品种进行染色
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-12-11 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0079
Shereen O. Bahlool, Zeinab M. Kenawy
PurposePeanut skins are an agro-waste product with no commercial value. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate peanut skin as a natural dyestuff and to determine if this natural dye could be used in the dyeing of some Egyptian cotton cultivars.Design/methodology/approachThe methodology consists of several steps; dye extraction procedure from peanut skin through aqueous extraction, then dyeing optimized using simultaneous mordanting using alum. Finally, dyed cotton has been subjected to different textile laboratory tests, for example, color measurements and mechanical properties. Color-fastness was determined on Egyptian cotton fabric. The peanut skin as a source of natural dye and the dyed cotton sample were characterized by fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis.FindingsIt was found that the natural dye extracted from peanut skin has an affinity for cotton samples and showed high dyeability with a unique color shade, good color strength and very good fastness.Originality/valueThe novelty of this paper is the extraction of color from the peanut's outer skin which is discarded as waste such as agro-waste of the agricultural process which can be used as a natural dye in the textile industry and applied to dyeing some Egyptian cotton fibers from different genotypes.
目的花生皮是一种农业废弃物,没有商业价值。本文的目的是评价花生皮作为一种天然染料,并确定这种天然染料是否可以用于某些埃及棉花品种的染色。设计/方法/方法该方法包括几个步骤;以花生皮为原料,采用水提法提取染料,再采用明矾同步媒染法优化染色工艺。最后,染色棉要经过不同的纺织实验室测试,例如颜色测量和机械性能。测定了埃及棉织物的色牢度。用傅里叶变换红外光谱(FTIR)分析了花生皮作为天然染料的来源和染色后的棉花样品。发现花生皮天然染料对棉花样品有亲和性,可染性高,色度独特,色强好,牢度好。本文的新颖之处在于从花生的外皮中提取颜色,将其作为一种天然染料用于纺织工业,并应用于不同基因型的埃及棉纤维的染色。
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引用次数: 0
Identification of bioactive compounds from onion (Allium burdickii) bulb using Raman, and FTIR spectroscopy 利用拉曼光谱和傅立叶变换红外光谱鉴定洋葱(Allium burdickii)鳞茎中的生物活性化合物
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-12-11 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0070
Karen Desta Agulei, J. Githaiga, Benson Dulo, Eric Oyondi Nganyi
PurposeThis study aims to identify the bioactive compounds in the Onion (Allium burdickii [A.B]) bulb using Raman and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) spectroscopy. It assessed the extraction conditions of bioactive compounds from A.B. while evaluating the best extraction conditions.Design/methodology/approachThe research opted for an experimental qualitative approach. It examined the extraction conditions of A.B., namely, temperature (°C), time (min) and mass-to-liquor ratio (M:R) using ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometry. Identification of bioactive compounds present in the dye was performed using Raman spectroscopy and the validation of the results was done by FTIR spectroscopy.FindingsThe study determined the best extraction conditions (time, temperature, M:R) for A.B bulb. The study confirmed the presence of bioactive compounds.Research limitations/implicationsThe limitation was quantification of bioactive compounds in A.B bulb.Practical implicationsThe findings prove that the A.B. bulb can provide a sustainable source of bioactive compounds (functionalized compounds). The study provides suitable extraction conditions for A.B. and further elaborates on the techniques for identifying bioactive compounds in A.B. bulb extracts.Social implicationsThe study provides A.B. as a source of bioactive compounds and a clean dye for textile coloration.Originality/valueTo the best of the authors’ knowledge, there is no documented study on the qualitative analysis of bioactive compounds in A.B using Raman and FTIR. Therefore, the study fulfils the identified need to ascertain alternative procedures for the analysis of bioactive compounds.
目的利用拉曼光谱和傅里叶变换红外光谱(FTIR)对洋葱鳞茎中的生物活性成分进行鉴定。对黄芪中生物活性成分的提取条件进行了评价,并对最佳提取条件进行了评价。设计/方法/方法这项研究选择了实验定性方法。采用紫外可见分光光度法考察了黄曲霉的提取条件,即温度(℃)、时间(min)和质液比(M:R)。利用拉曼光谱对染料中存在的生物活性化合物进行了鉴定,并用FTIR光谱对结果进行了验证。结果确定了黄芪黄茎的最佳提取条件(时间、温度、M:R)。这项研究证实了生物活性化合物的存在。研究的局限性/意义研究的局限性是对黄芪球茎中生物活性成分的定量分析。实际意义:研究结果证明,黄芪球茎可以提供生物活性化合物(功能化化合物)的可持续来源。本研究为黄芪的提取提供了适宜的条件,并进一步阐述了黄芪球茎提取物中生物活性成分的鉴定技术。社会意义该研究提供了A.B.作为生物活性化合物的来源和用于纺织品着色的清洁染料。原创性/价值据作者所知,目前尚无文献记载的利用拉曼光谱和傅里叶红外光谱对黄芪中生物活性成分进行定性分析的研究。因此,该研究满足了确定生物活性化合物分析的替代方法的确定需要。
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引用次数: 0
Characterization of cotton woven compression bandages with different structures 不同结构的棉织压缩绷带的特性
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-12-01 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0077
K. Seddik, M. A. Ali
PurposeNowadays, textiles play a striking role in various medical applications. Compression bandages are the most essential medical fabrics that help treat venous flow and edema. This study aims to investigate the characteristics of different woven compressive bandage structures produced using compact cotton and cotton/lycra.Design/methodology/approachFour samples were weaved by matt-plain2/2, twill2/2, stripe-stain4 and mock-leno structures. Several properties were tested that related to structural performance. Tensile strength, elastic and sub-bandage pressure are considered the main functional properties. Three different analysis tools were performed: chart-diagram, one-factor ANOVA and radar chart area.FindingsThe woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.Originality/valueThe woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.
如今,纺织品在各种医疗应用中发挥着引人注目的作用。压缩绷带是最基本的医疗织物,有助于治疗静脉流动和水肿。本研究的目的是研究用致密棉和棉/莱卡生产的不同编织压缩绷带结构的特性。设计/方法/方法4个样品由matt-plain2/2、twill2/2、stripe-stain4和mock-leno结构编织。测试了几种与结构性能相关的性能。拉伸强度、弹性和次绷带压力被认为是主要的功能性能。采用三种不同的分析工具:图表、单因素方差分析和雷达图面积。发现编织结构严重影响编织压缩绷带样品的性能及其分类。原创性/价值编织结构严重影响编织压缩绷带样品的性能及其分类。
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引用次数: 0
Apparel professionals’ perception of sustainability-related technology: a structural equation modeling approach 服装专业人员对可持续发展相关技术的看法:结构方程模型法
IF 1.5 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-11-24 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0040
Md Arif Iqbal, Jin Su
Purpose This study aims to examine the effects of the characteristics of apparel professionals on their attitude toward sustainability-related technology in the context of a developing country, Bangladesh. Design/methodology/approach A quantitative approach was used to investigate the apparel professionals’ perception of sustainability-related technology. A survey was conducted, and 204 valid responses were used in data analysis. The structural equation modeling technique was used to analyze the data. Findings The findings demonstrate that apparel professionals’ personal innovativeness positively impacts their knowledge of apparel technology. Knowledge of apparel technology and environmental issues in apparel manufacturing both significantly and positively impact their level of awareness of sustainability-related technology in apparel manufacturing. The findings also suggest that managers’ level of awareness of sustainability-related technology has a significant positive impact on their attitude toward sustainability-related technology. Originality/value Fishbein’s attitude theory was applied to examine how the various characteristics of apparel professionals (i.e. personal innovativeness in technology, knowledge of apparel technology, knowledge of environmental issues of apparel manufacturing) affect their awareness of and attitude toward sustainability-related technology. This study expands our understanding of the causal flow among cognitive variables of apparel professionals, including their innovativeness, knowledge, awareness and attitudes. The findings of the study can be helpful to the apparel industry to improve apparel professionals’ adoption of sustainable technology.
目的 本研究旨在探讨在发展中国家孟加拉国,服装专业人员的特点对其对可持续发展相关技术的态度的影响。 设计/方法/途径 采用定量方法调查服装专业人士对可持续发展相关技术的看法。我们进行了一项调查,在数据分析中使用了 204 份有效答卷。数据分析采用了结构方程模型技术。 研究结果 研究结果表明,服装专业人员的个人创新能力对其服装技术知识有积极影响。服装技术知识和服装生产中的环境问题都对他们对服装生产中与可持续发展相关的技术的认识水平有显著的积极影响。研究结果还表明,管理人员对可持续发展相关技术的认知水平对他们对可持续发展相关技术的态度有显著的积极影响。 原创性/价值 应用菲什宾的态度理论研究了服装专业人士的各种特征(即个人技术创新能力、对服装技术的了解、对服装生产环境问题的了解)如何影响他们对可持续发展相关技术的认识和态度。本研究拓展了我们对服装专业人士认知变量之间因果关系的理解,包括他们的创新能力、知识、意识和态度。研究结果有助于服装行业提高服装专业人员对可持续技术的采用率。
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引用次数: 0
Effect of technological parameters on the process of copper deposition on chemically and chemical-galvanically nickel-plated fibers 工艺参数对化学镀镍和化学电镀镍纤维镀铜工艺的影响
Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-10-30 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-03-2023-0037
Aizhan Doshibekova, Indira Jurinskaya, Salikh Tashpulatov, Raushan Zhilisbayeva, Lazzat Sarttarova, Rustam Akbarov, Marzhan Kalmakhanova
Purpose This paper aims to study the possibility of electroplating copper coatings on chemically and chemical-galvanically nickel-plated acrylic fibers, to be further processed into yarn, fabrics, knitwear and nonwoven materials. Design/methodology/approach Electrically conductive fibers with different copper contents have been obtained, and the effect of electrolyte pH, its composition, current strength at the first and second cathodes, as well as the metallization time on the electrophysical, physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers, has been studied. Findings The studies have shown that with an increase in the copper content, the electrical conductivity, the uniformity of the coating and the uniformity of the electrophysical properties (for chemical-galvanically nickel-plated fiber) increase. In the case of copper plating of chemically nickel-plated fiber, the coefficient of variation in electrical resistance increases with increasing plating time, even though the copper content increases, and the coefficient of variation in copper content and electrical resistance decreases. The physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers differ slightly from the original (subjected to copper plating) and industrial Nitron fibers. With copper plating, the strength of the fiber practically does not decrease, and the elongation decreases somewhat, compared with the mass-produced Nitron fiber. Originality/value The physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers are quite high, which makes it possible to be successfully further processed into yarn, fabrics, knitwear and nonwoven materials.
目的研究在化学镀镍和化学电镀镍的腈纶纤维上电镀镀铜,并进一步加工成纱线、织物、针织品和非织造材料的可能性。制备了含铜量不同的导电纤维,研究了电解液pH、组成、第一、第二阴极电流强度以及金属化时间对含铜纤维电物理、物理和机械性能的影响。研究表明,随着铜含量的增加,涂层的导电性、均匀性和电物理性能(对于化学电镀镍纤维)的均匀性都有所提高。在化学镀镍纤维镀铜的情况下,即使铜含量增加,电阻的变化系数也随着镀时间的增加而增加,而铜含量和电阻的变化系数减小。含铜纤维的物理和机械性能与原始(镀铜)和工业氮纤维略有不同。镀铜后,与量产的氮气纤维相比,纤维的强度几乎没有下降,伸长率有所下降。含铜纤维具有很高的物理力学性能,使其有可能成功地进一步加工成纱线、织物、针织品和非织造材料。
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引用次数: 0
Sustainable traditional natural dyeing practice in Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana 加纳Daboya和Ntonso社区的可持续传统自然染色实践
Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-10-24 DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0071
Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Benjamin Eghan, Emmanuel Abankwah Ofori, George Kwame Fobiri, Alex Osei Afriyie, Richard Acquaye
Purpose The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana. The study further highlights the rich cultural heritage of traditional dyeing from these two communities. Craftsmen in West Africa especially Ghana, have sustained the traditional dyeing methods to produce textile products for consumers. Design/methodology/approach In this study, two sample fabrics were purchased from craftsmen at Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. These fabrics were analysed at the laboratory under standard test methods for their physical, UV, colour appearance and colour fastness properties. Findings Results showed that all the sample fabrics have good UV shielding performance (ratings above 50+). Daboya sample fabrics (dyed with indigo dyes) produced more colour stains than the sample fabrics from Ntonso (dyed with black “kuntunkuni” dyes). The K/S sum value or colour yield reduced after washing but that alternatively increased the calculated ultraviolet protection factor. Practical implications Findings from this study exposed the unique UV performance of dyed traditional fabrics (using natural dyes) from Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. This inspires and enforces the need for craftsmen to improve their production cycle to produce these fabrics in different sizes which provides the necessary UV shielding abilities for consumers in the wake of climate changes. Originality/value This study demonstrated that the natural dyeing process at the two communities produced relatively good UV and colour fastness properties of the sample fabrics. These eco-friendly dyeing practices have survived over time to maintain and promote the concept of sustainability within the textile and fashion industry in Ghana.
本研究的目的是研究选用加纳Daboya和Ntonso社区的天然染料染色的织物的物理、紫外线(UV)、颜色外观和色牢度性能。这项研究进一步突出了这两个社区丰富的传统染色文化遗产。西非,特别是加纳的工匠,一直保持着传统的染色方法,为消费者生产纺织品。设计/方法/方法在本研究中,从加纳Ntonso和Daboya社区的工匠那里购买了两种样品织物。这些织物在实验室按照标准测试方法对其物理、紫外线、颜色外观和色牢度性能进行了分析。结果表明,所有样品织物都具有良好的紫外线屏蔽性能(评分在50+以上)。Daboya样品织物(用靛蓝染料染色)比Ntonso样品织物(用黑色“kuntunkuni”染料染色)产生更多的色斑。洗涤后的K/S和值或显色率降低,但增加了计算的紫外线防护系数。本研究的发现揭示了来自加纳Ntonso和Daboya社区的染色传统织物(使用天然染料)的独特紫外线性能。这激发并加强了工匠改善生产周期的需求,以生产不同尺寸的这些织物,在气候变化之后为消费者提供必要的紫外线屏蔽能力。本研究表明,在两个群落的自然染色工艺下,样品织物的抗紫外线和色牢度性能相对较好。随着时间的推移,这些环保的染色方法在加纳的纺织和时尚行业中保持和促进了可持续发展的概念。
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Research journal of textile and apparel
全部 Acc. Chem. Res. ACS Applied Bio Materials ACS Appl. Electron. Mater. ACS Appl. Energy Mater. ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces ACS Appl. Nano Mater. ACS Appl. Polym. Mater. ACS BIOMATER-SCI ENG ACS Catal. ACS Cent. Sci. ACS Chem. Biol. ACS Chemical Health & Safety ACS Chem. Neurosci. ACS Comb. Sci. ACS Earth Space Chem. ACS Energy Lett. ACS Infect. Dis. ACS Macro Lett. ACS Mater. Lett. ACS Med. Chem. Lett. ACS Nano ACS Omega ACS Photonics ACS Sens. ACS Sustainable Chem. Eng. ACS Synth. Biol. Anal. Chem. BIOCHEMISTRY-US Bioconjugate Chem. BIOMACROMOLECULES Chem. Res. Toxicol. Chem. Rev. Chem. Mater. CRYST GROWTH DES ENERG FUEL Environ. Sci. Technol. Environ. Sci. Technol. Lett. Eur. J. Inorg. Chem. IND ENG CHEM RES Inorg. Chem. J. Agric. Food. Chem. J. Chem. Eng. Data J. Chem. Educ. J. Chem. Inf. Model. J. Chem. Theory Comput. J. Med. Chem. J. Nat. Prod. J PROTEOME RES J. Am. Chem. Soc. LANGMUIR MACROMOLECULES Mol. Pharmaceutics Nano Lett. Org. Lett. ORG PROCESS RES DEV ORGANOMETALLICS J. Org. Chem. J. Phys. Chem. J. Phys. Chem. A J. Phys. Chem. B J. Phys. Chem. C J. Phys. Chem. Lett. Analyst Anal. Methods Biomater. Sci. Catal. Sci. Technol. Chem. Commun. Chem. Soc. Rev. CHEM EDUC RES PRACT CRYSTENGCOMM Dalton Trans. Energy Environ. Sci. ENVIRON SCI-NANO ENVIRON SCI-PROC IMP ENVIRON SCI-WAT RES Faraday Discuss. Food Funct. Green Chem. Inorg. Chem. Front. Integr. Biol. J. Anal. At. Spectrom. J. Mater. Chem. A J. Mater. Chem. B J. Mater. Chem. C Lab Chip Mater. Chem. Front. Mater. Horiz. MEDCHEMCOMM Metallomics Mol. Biosyst. Mol. Syst. Des. Eng. Nanoscale Nanoscale Horiz. Nat. Prod. Rep. New J. Chem. Org. Biomol. Chem. Org. Chem. Front. PHOTOCH PHOTOBIO SCI PCCP Polym. Chem.
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