Pub Date : 2023-05-09DOI: 10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0138
A. Ghalachyan, E. Karpova, Anastasia Frattali
Purpose This study aims to propose and demonstrate a practical application of a new three-part holistic sensory evaluation (HSE) method for textiles and apparel based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. HSE method development was carefully documented, described and successfully applied to evaluate sensory characteristics and consumer perceptions and acceptance of bacterial cellulose (BC), a novel sustainable material for apparel. Design/methodology/approach In Part One of the HSE method, research participants described the material in their own words based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. In Part Two, they rated the intensities and their linking for 25 predetermined attributes describing BC. Part Three measured participants’ overall liking of BC and its perceived suitability for apparel and accessories. Findings Application of the HSE method resulted in an in-depth understanding of BC material. Areas for material improvements and positive characteristics were identified, providing direction for further development. Consumers found BC suitable for accessories and outer-layer garments but not for apparel. Originality/value Sensory evaluation of textiles and apparel has traditionally focused on the senses of touch and sight. The new HSE method allows evaluating the full range of sensory characteristics of materials/products and holistically assessing consumer perceptions. The method is especially useful for novel materials and wearable technology. BC has gained increased interests as a novel sustainable material, yet consumer studies have been lacking. This study reports a comprehensive evaluation of BC material from consumer perspective.
{"title":"Developing a holistic sensory evaluation three-part method for textiles and apparel: a practical application for novel materials and products","authors":"A. Ghalachyan, E. Karpova, Anastasia Frattali","doi":"10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0138","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to propose and demonstrate a practical application of a new three-part holistic sensory evaluation (HSE) method for textiles and apparel based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. HSE method development was carefully documented, described and successfully applied to evaluate sensory characteristics and consumer perceptions and acceptance of bacterial cellulose (BC), a novel sustainable material for apparel.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000In Part One of the HSE method, research participants described the material in their own words based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. In Part Two, they rated the intensities and their linking for 25 predetermined attributes describing BC. Part Three measured participants’ overall liking of BC and its perceived suitability for apparel and accessories.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Application of the HSE method resulted in an in-depth understanding of BC material. Areas for material improvements and positive characteristics were identified, providing direction for further development. Consumers found BC suitable for accessories and outer-layer garments but not for apparel.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Sensory evaluation of textiles and apparel has traditionally focused on the senses of touch and sight. The new HSE method allows evaluating the full range of sensory characteristics of materials/products and holistically assessing consumer perceptions. The method is especially useful for novel materials and wearable technology. BC has gained increased interests as a novel sustainable material, yet consumer studies have been lacking. This study reports a comprehensive evaluation of BC material from consumer perspective.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44182417","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-05-05DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0085
Bijoy Kumar Dey, U. Paul
Purpose This study aims to extend the discussion on firm profitability to include handloom enterprises in India. Design/methodology/approach This study uses a random sample of 427 handloom microentrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. The seemingly unrelated regression model is used to determine the profitability drivers in India’s handloom enterprises. Findings The empirical results revealed that human, financial and social capital, along with their control variables such as information and communication technology, firm size and sales distribution, are the main drivers of profitability of Indian handloom enterprises. Originality/value To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is the first to offer an in-depth insight into what makes profitability in the handloom enterprises in India, the world’s second-largest reservoir of the handloom industry.
{"title":"What drives the profitability of Indian handloom enterprises? An insight based on the seemingly unrelated regression model","authors":"Bijoy Kumar Dey, U. Paul","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0085","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0085","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to extend the discussion on firm profitability to include handloom enterprises in India.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This study uses a random sample of 427 handloom microentrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. The seemingly unrelated regression model is used to determine the profitability drivers in India’s handloom enterprises.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The empirical results revealed that human, financial and social capital, along with their control variables such as information and communication technology, firm size and sales distribution, are the main drivers of profitability of Indian handloom enterprises.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is the first to offer an in-depth insight into what makes profitability in the handloom enterprises in India, the world’s second-largest reservoir of the handloom industry.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-05-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41426754","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-05-05DOI: 10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0105
Bijoy Kumar Dey, U. Paul, Gurudas Das
Purpose Although handloom is a significant source of livelihood for millions of people in India, it performs poorly compared to other sectors of the economy, which may be the root of technical inefficiency. Until now, to measure technical efficiency, no studies have been carried out; therefore, the purpose of this study is to estimate the technical efficiency in the handloom micro-enterprises in India. Design/methodology/approach This study includes 427 handloom micro-entrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. Using bootstrap truncated regression, the data envelopment analysis (DEA) was used to calculate the technical efficiency and identify the factors responsible for inefficiency. Findings The findings of this study reveal that handloom enterprises are 75% pure technically efficient, suggesting room for input reduction. The bootstrap truncated regression results show that education, prior experience, modern technology, ICT, bank loan, training, gender and location significantly influence the technical efficiency of handloom enterprises. Research limitations/implications Despite recent advances in the DEA method, this study used a traditional form of DEA. This study used only one output and a limited set of inputs. Better results could have been obtained by expanding the number of inputs and output. Finally, the data for this study has been obtained from a very narrow geographic area. The production practices of the handloom enterprises in other parts of the region and other states might vary considerably. Practical implications Technical efficiency measurement has management implications for businesses because it allows entrepreneurs to determine how much less input is required to produce the same output. A meticulous analysis can pinpoint the causes of inefficiency. Originality/value This paper aims to make two significant contributions to the extant literature. First, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, no published document has analyzed the technical efficiency of handloom micro-enterprises anywhere in the world. The authors fill this void by systematically analyzing the technical efficiency of the handloom industry in Assam.
{"title":"Are handloom micro-enterprises in India efficient? Estimation based on DEA and bootstrap truncated regression approach","authors":"Bijoy Kumar Dey, U. Paul, Gurudas Das","doi":"10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0105","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0105","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Although handloom is a significant source of livelihood for millions of people in India, it performs poorly compared to other sectors of the economy, which may be the root of technical inefficiency. Until now, to measure technical efficiency, no studies have been carried out; therefore, the purpose of this study is to estimate the technical efficiency in the handloom micro-enterprises in India.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This study includes 427 handloom micro-entrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. Using bootstrap truncated regression, the data envelopment analysis (DEA) was used to calculate the technical efficiency and identify the factors responsible for inefficiency.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The findings of this study reveal that handloom enterprises are 75% pure technically efficient, suggesting room for input reduction. The bootstrap truncated regression results show that education, prior experience, modern technology, ICT, bank loan, training, gender and location significantly influence the technical efficiency of handloom enterprises.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000Despite recent advances in the DEA method, this study used a traditional form of DEA. This study used only one output and a limited set of inputs. Better results could have been obtained by expanding the number of inputs and output. Finally, the data for this study has been obtained from a very narrow geographic area. The production practices of the handloom enterprises in other parts of the region and other states might vary considerably.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000Technical efficiency measurement has management implications for businesses because it allows entrepreneurs to determine how much less input is required to produce the same output. A meticulous analysis can pinpoint the causes of inefficiency.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This paper aims to make two significant contributions to the extant literature. First, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, no published document has analyzed the technical efficiency of handloom micro-enterprises anywhere in the world. The authors fill this void by systematically analyzing the technical efficiency of the handloom industry in Assam.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-05-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"62249459","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Purpose This study aims to address the aspects of product and process innovation strategies and their determining factors to understand their characteristics in clothing manufacturing and contribution for a successful and competitive clothing industry. Design/methodology/approach This general review is based on literature data of previous studies on innovation that transcend and cover the aspects of innovation applicable in the clothing industry. Although the scope of discussion is theoretically broad, it focusses on the context of innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing and the determinant factors indicating the acquisition and implementation of product and process-related innovation activities, simultaneously exploring and linking their implications for adopting, managing and integrating enterprise activities to the values of desired innovation novel models. Findings Based on theoretical background and pragmatic generalizations, product and process innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing firms tend to incline more towards computer-integrated technologies and concepts meant to promote product development, process optimization and organizational integration. Industry, technological and R&D factors tend to significantly determine innovation capability of a clothing firm. Originality/value This review generates integrated conceptual frameworks for product and process innovation strategies applicable in clothing firms and their determinant factors as prelude to empirical validation.
{"title":"A conceptual appraisal towards the contextualization of product and process innovation in clothing manufacturing","authors":"Duncan Kariuki Ndwiga, Lucy Ciera, Geoffrey Ngugi Mokabi","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0080","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0080","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to address the aspects of product and process innovation strategies and their determining factors to understand their characteristics in clothing manufacturing and contribution for a successful and competitive clothing industry. Design/methodology/approach This general review is based on literature data of previous studies on innovation that transcend and cover the aspects of innovation applicable in the clothing industry. Although the scope of discussion is theoretically broad, it focusses on the context of innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing and the determinant factors indicating the acquisition and implementation of product and process-related innovation activities, simultaneously exploring and linking their implications for adopting, managing and integrating enterprise activities to the values of desired innovation novel models. Findings Based on theoretical background and pragmatic generalizations, product and process innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing firms tend to incline more towards computer-integrated technologies and concepts meant to promote product development, process optimization and organizational integration. Industry, technological and R&D factors tend to significantly determine innovation capability of a clothing firm. Originality/value This review generates integrated conceptual frameworks for product and process innovation strategies applicable in clothing firms and their determinant factors as prelude to empirical validation.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-04-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46236804","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-04-18DOI: 10.1108/rjta-12-2022-0155
Sanjeet Singh, M. Amini, Mohammed Jamshed, H. Sharma, Waseem Khan
Purpose The purpose of the study is to examine the obstacle in doing business and determinants of credit adoption by the textile enterprises in India. Design/methodology/approach The study is based on World Bank’s Enterprises Survey, there are 571 enterprises involved in textile business. The enterprises survey has response on wide range of business obstacles which are categorized under three broad categories, namely, access to resource, business regulations and market externalities. Chi-square test and analysis of variance (ANOVA) have been used to examine the significant difference among firm’s profile and perceived business obstacles across the firm size. Furthermore, binary logistic regression model has been applied to explore the determinants of credit adoption by textile enterprises. Findings A statistically significant difference has been found in size of firms and legal status nature of establishment, gender of top manager, main product market and credit adoption from financial institutions. Majority of small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) are sole proprietorship firm while large enterprises are limited partnership firms. Similarly, large enterprises have relatively more female as a top manager and international market for their product. ANOVA reveals equal degree of obstacles in doing textile business across the firm size. The logistic regression coefficient and marginal effects reveal that firm size, main market,gender of owner, number of establishment in the firms positive and significantly affects the credit adoption by 3 textile enterprises. Practical implications The study has some policy implications for various stakeholders such as textile business managers and promoters, government, investors and bankers for entrepreneurship development in textile sector. The study suggests that the government should incentivize small- and medium-sized businesses to increase their exports. The results show that despite government efforts to finance SMEs, fewer SMEs are receiving both short- and long-term credit. To help SMEs in the textile industry overcome financial difficulties and expand their main product market to both domestic and international levels, a soft loan should be provided based on the characteristics of textile enterprises. Originality/value The present study suggests the evidence-based understanding of textile business environment. The value and uniqueness of this study is to explore an ease of business textile sector using comprehensive enterprises survey data of World Bank.
{"title":"Understanding the perceived business obstacles and determinants of credit adoption by textile firms: evidences from World Bank’s enterprises survey","authors":"Sanjeet Singh, M. Amini, Mohammed Jamshed, H. Sharma, Waseem Khan","doi":"10.1108/rjta-12-2022-0155","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-12-2022-0155","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of the study is to examine the obstacle in doing business and determinants of credit adoption by the textile enterprises in India.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The study is based on World Bank’s Enterprises Survey, there are 571 enterprises involved in textile business. The enterprises survey has response on wide range of business obstacles which are categorized under three broad categories, namely, access to resource, business regulations and market externalities. Chi-square test and analysis of variance (ANOVA) have been used to examine the significant difference among firm’s profile and perceived business obstacles across the firm size. Furthermore, binary logistic regression model has been applied to explore the determinants of credit adoption by textile enterprises.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000A statistically significant difference has been found in size of firms and legal status nature of establishment, gender of top manager, main product market and credit adoption from financial institutions. Majority of small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) are sole proprietorship firm while large enterprises are limited partnership firms. Similarly, large enterprises have relatively more female as a top manager and international market for their product. ANOVA reveals equal degree of obstacles in doing textile business across the firm size. The logistic regression coefficient and marginal effects reveal that firm size, main market,gender of owner, number of establishment in the firms positive and significantly affects the credit adoption by 3 textile enterprises.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The study has some policy implications for various stakeholders such as textile business managers and promoters, government, investors and bankers for entrepreneurship development in textile sector. The study suggests that the government should incentivize small- and medium-sized businesses to increase their exports. The results show that despite government efforts to finance SMEs, fewer SMEs are receiving both short- and long-term credit. To help SMEs in the textile industry overcome financial difficulties and expand their main product market to both domestic and international levels, a soft loan should be provided based on the characteristics of textile enterprises.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The present study suggests the evidence-based understanding of textile business environment. The value and uniqueness of this study is to explore an ease of business textile sector using comprehensive enterprises survey data of World Bank.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-04-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48957503","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-04-17DOI: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0050
Vanishree Beloor, T. S. Nanjundeswaraswamy
Purpose The purpose of this study is to determine the enablers of the quality of work life (QWL) of employees working in the Garment industries. Design/methodology/approach The study was carried out in a fivefold step. In the first step, the enablers of QWL were identified through an exhaustive literature survey, in the second step identified vital few components through Pareto analysis. Then the third step was followed by exploratory factor analysis (EFA) to further, to identify the precise components and validate the same using confirmatory factor analysis in fourth step. The final step included interpretive structural modeling and Cross-Impact Matrix Multiplication Applied to Classification analysis to model the validated components and determine the interrelationships and linkages. Findings Predominant QWL enablers of employees working in the garment industries are training and development, satisfaction in job, compensation and rewards, relation and co-operation, grievance handling, work environment, job nature, job security and facilities. Research limitations/implications In this study, the interpretive structural model is designed based on the opinion of the experts who are working in the garment industry considering the responses from employees in garment sectors. The framework can be extended further to the other sectors. Practical implications In future, the researchers in QWL may develop a model to quantify the level of employees’ QWL who are working in different sectors. Enablers of QWL are essential, and based on this further statistical analysis can be carried out. This study will provide limelight to the researchers in choosing the valid and reliable set of enablers for the empirical studies. Organizations can get benefit by implementing the outcome of this research for the enhancement of the QWL of employees. Originality/value The study was carried out in 133 garment industries where 851 workers constituted the final valid responses that were considered for analysis. The outcomes from the study help administrators, policy and decision-takers in taking decisions to enhance QWL.
{"title":"Enablers of quality of work life of employees in garment industry: an integrated hybrid approach of Pareto, SEM and ISM","authors":"Vanishree Beloor, T. S. Nanjundeswaraswamy","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0050","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this study is to determine the enablers of the quality of work life (QWL) of employees working in the Garment industries.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The study was carried out in a fivefold step. In the first step, the enablers of QWL were identified through an exhaustive literature survey, in the second step identified vital few components through Pareto analysis. Then the third step was followed by exploratory factor analysis (EFA) to further, to identify the precise components and validate the same using confirmatory factor analysis in fourth step. The final step included interpretive structural modeling and Cross-Impact Matrix Multiplication Applied to Classification analysis to model the validated components and determine the interrelationships and linkages.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Predominant QWL enablers of employees working in the garment industries are training and development, satisfaction in job, compensation and rewards, relation and co-operation, grievance handling, work environment, job nature, job security and facilities.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000In this study, the interpretive structural model is designed based on the opinion of the experts who are working in the garment industry considering the responses from employees in garment sectors. The framework can be extended further to the other sectors.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000In future, the researchers in QWL may develop a model to quantify the level of employees’ QWL who are working in different sectors. Enablers of QWL are essential, and based on this further statistical analysis can be carried out. This study will provide limelight to the researchers in choosing the valid and reliable set of enablers for the empirical studies. Organizations can get benefit by implementing the outcome of this research for the enhancement of the QWL of employees.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The study was carried out in 133 garment industries where 851 workers constituted the final valid responses that were considered for analysis. The outcomes from the study help administrators, policy and decision-takers in taking decisions to enhance QWL.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-04-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45434167","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-04-13DOI: 10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0136
Meenakshi Ahirwar, B. Behera
Purpose Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle. Findings The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics. Originality/value Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.
{"title":"Appraisal of hand value of denim fabrics","authors":"Meenakshi Ahirwar, B. Behera","doi":"10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0136","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0136","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-04-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47150586","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-04-11DOI: 10.1108/rjta-12-2022-0154
Bekinew Kitaw Dejene, Tsige Mamo Geletaw
Purpose The textile industry is evolving toward nanotechnology, which provides materials with self-cleaning properties. This paper aims to provide a thorough explanation of the green synthesis and mechanism of ZnO nanoparticles, with prospective applications of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in self-cleaning textiles. Design/methodology/approach This review introduces a green mechanism for the synthesis of ZnO NPs using plant extracts, their self-cleaning properties and the mechanisms of physical, chemical and biological self-cleaning actions for textile applications. Findings ZnO NPs are among the several nanoparticles that are beneficial for self-cleaning textiles because of their exceptional physical and chemical properties, although review publications addressing the use of ZnO NPs in textiles for self-cleaning are uncommon. These results indicate that the plant-synthesized ZnO NPs display excellent biological, physical and chemical self-cleaning properties, the mechanism of which involves photocatalysis, surface roughness and interactions between ZnO NPs and bacterial surfaces. Originality/value Nanoformulations of plant-synthesized ZnO have been reviewed to achieve promising self-cleaning textile properties and have not been reviewed earlier.
{"title":"A review of plant-mediated synthesis of zinc oxide nanoparticles for self-cleaning textiles","authors":"Bekinew Kitaw Dejene, Tsige Mamo Geletaw","doi":"10.1108/rjta-12-2022-0154","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-12-2022-0154","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The textile industry is evolving toward nanotechnology, which provides materials with self-cleaning properties. This paper aims to provide a thorough explanation of the green synthesis and mechanism of ZnO nanoparticles, with prospective applications of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in self-cleaning textiles.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This review introduces a green mechanism for the synthesis of ZnO NPs using plant extracts, their self-cleaning properties and the mechanisms of physical, chemical and biological self-cleaning actions for textile applications.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000ZnO NPs are among the several nanoparticles that are beneficial for self-cleaning textiles because of their exceptional physical and chemical properties, although review publications addressing the use of ZnO NPs in textiles for self-cleaning are uncommon. These results indicate that the plant-synthesized ZnO NPs display excellent biological, physical and chemical self-cleaning properties, the mechanism of which involves photocatalysis, surface roughness and interactions between ZnO NPs and bacterial surfaces.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Nanoformulations of plant-synthesized ZnO have been reviewed to achieve promising self-cleaning textile properties and have not been reviewed earlier.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-04-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45855635","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-04-04DOI: 10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0139
M. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj, Vinaytosh Mishra
Purpose This study aims to explore the essence of the omnichannel in the handloom industry’s development and to identify, analyse and estimate the barriers obstructing the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. Design/methodology/approach A descriptive literature review and expert opinion are used to identify the barriers obstructing the successful realisation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. Moreover, interpretive structural modeling and the matrix of cross-impact multiplications applied to classification are used to analyse and estimate the impact of these barriers. Findings This research suggests the implementation of the omnichannel is subjected to several barriers, specifically lack of government support and policies, uncertainty in business contract partners, poor reverse logistics system, etc. Originality/value This research explores the contribution of the handloom industry to the socioeconomic development of the rural and semi-urban Indian population. It also explores the need for government support for the survival and growth of the handloom industry. It also explains how omnichannel can support this industry for its survival and its overall development. Furthermore, factors inhibiting the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry are identified and evaluated based on their over impact.
{"title":"Modeling of barrier in the adoption of omnichannel marketing: a case of Indian handloom industry","authors":"M. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj, Vinaytosh Mishra","doi":"10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0139","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0139","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to explore the essence of the omnichannel in the handloom industry’s development and to identify, analyse and estimate the barriers obstructing the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A descriptive literature review and expert opinion are used to identify the barriers obstructing the successful realisation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. Moreover, interpretive structural modeling and the matrix of cross-impact multiplications applied to classification are used to analyse and estimate the impact of these barriers.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000This research suggests the implementation of the omnichannel is subjected to several barriers, specifically lack of government support and policies, uncertainty in business contract partners, poor reverse logistics system, etc.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This research explores the contribution of the handloom industry to the socioeconomic development of the rural and semi-urban Indian population. It also explores the need for government support for the survival and growth of the handloom industry. It also explains how omnichannel can support this industry for its survival and its overall development. Furthermore, factors inhibiting the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry are identified and evaluated based on their over impact.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44365317","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-28DOI: 10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0131
Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan, Anita Rachel D., S. C.B., S. Senthil Kumar, S. Kumar B., Devaki E.
Purpose Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing. Design/methodology/approach To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths. Findings The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties. Research limitations/implications In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear. Originality/value This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.
{"title":"Studies on thermal and moisture properties of novel Eri silk knitted structures","authors":"Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan, Anita Rachel D., S. C.B., S. Senthil Kumar, S. Kumar B., Devaki E.","doi":"10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0131","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-11-2022-0131","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-03-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47587448","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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