Pub Date : 2022-12-07DOI: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0053
P. Behera, Sanjukta Aravind, Balaji Seetharaman
Purpose Bales of cotton run through the gins and textile mill instruments, stick to them and make it cumbersome for the ginning mill workers. This is so because more time and money have to be invested in cleaning these instruments. The stickiness of cotton causes health hazards to the workers, decreases the yarn quality and economic loss to the textile industry. The effect of cotton stickiness on textile ginning, various methods for cotton stickiness detection and the steps for reduction are discussed. Design/methodology/approach The different methods that are available for detecting and measuring cotton stickiness are described. The sugars that cause stickiness are either of plant origin (physiological sugars) or from the feeding insects (entomological origin). The methods for stickiness detection and reduction are discussed under physical, chemical and biological categories. Findings This review suggests possible ways to mitigate cotton stickiness. Originality/value One of the major issues of the textile industry is honeydew-contaminated cotton stickiness. However, there are few papers on detection methods for analyzing honeydew cotton stickiness along with the approaches to reduce stickiness. This paper summarizes different methods along with a study for detection as well as reduction of cotton stickiness.
{"title":"Honeydew contaminated cotton: a sticky problem needs a solution","authors":"P. Behera, Sanjukta Aravind, Balaji Seetharaman","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0053","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0053","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Bales of cotton run through the gins and textile mill instruments, stick to them and make it cumbersome for the ginning mill workers. This is so because more time and money have to be invested in cleaning these instruments. The stickiness of cotton causes health hazards to the workers, decreases the yarn quality and economic loss to the textile industry. The effect of cotton stickiness on textile ginning, various methods for cotton stickiness detection and the steps for reduction are discussed.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The different methods that are available for detecting and measuring cotton stickiness are described. The sugars that cause stickiness are either of plant origin (physiological sugars) or from the feeding insects (entomological origin). The methods for stickiness detection and reduction are discussed under physical, chemical and biological categories.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000This review suggests possible ways to mitigate cotton stickiness.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000One of the major issues of the textile industry is honeydew-contaminated cotton stickiness. However, there are few papers on detection methods for analyzing honeydew cotton stickiness along with the approaches to reduce stickiness. This paper summarizes different methods along with a study for detection as well as reduction of cotton stickiness.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-12-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49011155","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-24DOI: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0045
J. Perret
Purpose The purpose of the study is to fill a gap in the literature on mathematical production planning (joint balancing and sequencing) in the fashion industry. It considers in particular situations of mass customization, made-to-measure or small lot sizes. Design/methodology/approach The paper develops a mathematical model based on product options and attributes instead of fixed variants. It proposes an easy-to-use genetic algorithm to solve the resulting optimization problem. Functionality and performance of the algorithm are illustrated via a computational study. Findings An easy-to-implement, yet efficient algorithm to solve the multi-objective implementation of a problem structure that becomes increasingly relevant in the fashion industry is proposed. Implementation of the algorithm revealed that the algorithm is ideally suited to generate significant savings and that these savings are impervious to problem and thus company size. Practical implications The solutions from the algorithm (Pareto-efficient frontier) offer decision-makers more flexibility in selecting those solutions they deem most fitting for their situation. The computational study illustrates the significant monetary savings possible by implementing the proposed algorithm to practical situations. Originality/value In contrast to existing papers, for the first time, to the best of the author’s knowledge, the focus of the joint balancing and sequencing approach has been applied in the fashion instead of the automotive industry. The applicability of the approach to specific fields of the fashion industry is discussed. An option and attributes-based model, rarely used in general assembly line sequencing per se, is used for more flexibility in representing a diverse set of model types.
{"title":"A simultaneous balancing and sequencing algorithm to plan assembly lines in the fashion industry","authors":"J. Perret","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0045","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0045","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of the study is to fill a gap in the literature on mathematical production planning (joint balancing and sequencing) in the fashion industry. It considers in particular situations of mass customization, made-to-measure or small lot sizes.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The paper develops a mathematical model based on product options and attributes instead of fixed variants. It proposes an easy-to-use genetic algorithm to solve the resulting optimization problem. Functionality and performance of the algorithm are illustrated via a computational study.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000An easy-to-implement, yet efficient algorithm to solve the multi-objective implementation of a problem structure that becomes increasingly relevant in the fashion industry is proposed. Implementation of the algorithm revealed that the algorithm is ideally suited to generate significant savings and that these savings are impervious to problem and thus company size.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The solutions from the algorithm (Pareto-efficient frontier) offer decision-makers more flexibility in selecting those solutions they deem most fitting for their situation. The computational study illustrates the significant monetary savings possible by implementing the proposed algorithm to practical situations.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000In contrast to existing papers, for the first time, to the best of the author’s knowledge, the focus of the joint balancing and sequencing approach has been applied in the fashion instead of the automotive industry. The applicability of the approach to specific fields of the fashion industry is discussed. An option and attributes-based model, rarely used in general assembly line sequencing per se, is used for more flexibility in representing a diverse set of model types.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-11-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41344445","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-23DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0082
Peter Davis Sumo, Xiaofen Ji, Liling Cai
Purpose Studies on textile upcycling in Africa are rare, particularly in Liberia, where extensive upcycling designs are appreciated throughout the country. This study aims to contribute to the upcycling literature from the perspective of Liberia’s fashion upcyclers by assessing their coping strategies and understanding the challenges confronting fashion upcycling in Monrovia’s four largest markets. Design/methodology/approach A fuzzy analytical hierarchy process and data envelopment analysis (DEA) models were used to assess labor input, delivery and flexibility, technological and innovation capability, financial capability, pricing of finished products, customer service and quality outputs of upcycled fashions. The fuzzy inference system model assessed upcyclers’ loaning eligibility. Findings The results highlight that Liberia’s fashion upcycling is expanding with varying innovative designs. The quality of upcycled fashions was deemed most important in the proposed AHP model. However, many upcycling businesses lack sufficient capital to make long-term investments. With the necessary investment, the innovation of these upcyclers could be a new line of fashion brands with great potential. In addition, using a fair judgment in assessing the little loaning funds available is paramount to enhancing their growth. Research limitations/implications Only 34 decision-making units were assessed. Future research could expand this scope using other models with more practical loaning strategies. Originality/value This study presents a wealth of managerial and policy implications. The proposed hybrid model is adequate for developing managerial decisions for fashion upcyclers. The proposed framework can manage ambiguity, inaccuracy and the complexity of making decisions based on numerous criteria, making it applicable in unearthing robust strategies for enhancing the fashion upcycling sectors and other industries in developing countries. In addition, the proposed fuzzy Mamdani system could also be extended to other sectors, such as agriculture, for a more transparent allocation of resources.
{"title":"Efficiency evaluation and loan assessment of fashion upcyclers in Liberia using fuzzy, DEA and FIS models","authors":"Peter Davis Sumo, Xiaofen Ji, Liling Cai","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0082","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0082","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Studies on textile upcycling in Africa are rare, particularly in Liberia, where extensive upcycling designs are appreciated throughout the country. This study aims to contribute to the upcycling literature from the perspective of Liberia’s fashion upcyclers by assessing their coping strategies and understanding the challenges confronting fashion upcycling in Monrovia’s four largest markets.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A fuzzy analytical hierarchy process and data envelopment analysis (DEA) models were used to assess labor input, delivery and flexibility, technological and innovation capability, financial capability, pricing of finished products, customer service and quality outputs of upcycled fashions. The fuzzy inference system model assessed upcyclers’ loaning eligibility.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results highlight that Liberia’s fashion upcycling is expanding with varying innovative designs. The quality of upcycled fashions was deemed most important in the proposed AHP model. However, many upcycling businesses lack sufficient capital to make long-term investments. With the necessary investment, the innovation of these upcyclers could be a new line of fashion brands with great potential. In addition, using a fair judgment in assessing the little loaning funds available is paramount to enhancing their growth.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000Only 34 decision-making units were assessed. Future research could expand this scope using other models with more practical loaning strategies.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study presents a wealth of managerial and policy implications. The proposed hybrid model is adequate for developing managerial decisions for fashion upcyclers. The proposed framework can manage ambiguity, inaccuracy and the complexity of making decisions based on numerous criteria, making it applicable in unearthing robust strategies for enhancing the fashion upcycling sectors and other industries in developing countries. In addition, the proposed fuzzy Mamdani system could also be extended to other sectors, such as agriculture, for a more transparent allocation of resources.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-11-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43647278","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-14DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0079
April Denny, B. Moore, S. Newcomer, J. Nessler
Purpose The purpose of this study was to determine whether there are differences in skin temperature under graphene-infused fleece and traditional polyester fleece materials in the interior of a wetsuit. Design/methodology/approach A total of 48 participants surfed for a minimum of 40 min in a custom wetsuit with a torso lined with graphene-infused fleece on one half and traditional polyester fleece on the other. Eight iButton thermistors were used to record skin temperatures bilaterally at the upper back, chest, abdomen and lower back every minute for the entire surf session. After surfing, participants responded to questions associated with their perception of warmth and comfort and their knowledge of fleece materials. Findings Skin temperatures did not differ between the two types of fleece at the upper back, chest and abdomen locations. Skin temperatures in the lower back were significantly warmer under the traditional polyester fleece compared to graphene-infused fleece. Participant responses associated with warmth were consistent with skin temperature measurements. Practical implications The results of this study indicate that a graphene-infused nylon fleece interior does not clearly influence skin temperature in surfers when compared to a traditional polyester fleece interior. While skin temperatures were significantly lower under the graphene-infused nylon fleece at the low back, the other three anatomical locations did not exhibit significant differences. Originality/value Thermoregulation is an important consideration for the safety and performance of surfers in the ocean. Evidence suggests that the inner lining of a wetsuit may impact thermoregulation while surfing; however, no prior studies have compared interior materials.
{"title":"Graphene-infused nylon fleece versus standard polyester fleece as a wetsuit liner: comparison of skin temperatures during a recreational surf session","authors":"April Denny, B. Moore, S. Newcomer, J. Nessler","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0079","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this study was to determine whether there are differences in skin temperature under graphene-infused fleece and traditional polyester fleece materials in the interior of a wetsuit.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A total of 48 participants surfed for a minimum of 40 min in a custom wetsuit with a torso lined with graphene-infused fleece on one half and traditional polyester fleece on the other. Eight iButton thermistors were used to record skin temperatures bilaterally at the upper back, chest, abdomen and lower back every minute for the entire surf session. After surfing, participants responded to questions associated with their perception of warmth and comfort and their knowledge of fleece materials.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Skin temperatures did not differ between the two types of fleece at the upper back, chest and abdomen locations. Skin temperatures in the lower back were significantly warmer under the traditional polyester fleece compared to graphene-infused fleece. Participant responses associated with warmth were consistent with skin temperature measurements.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The results of this study indicate that a graphene-infused nylon fleece interior does not clearly influence skin temperature in surfers when compared to a traditional polyester fleece interior. While skin temperatures were significantly lower under the graphene-infused nylon fleece at the low back, the other three anatomical locations did not exhibit significant differences.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Thermoregulation is an important consideration for the safety and performance of surfers in the ocean. Evidence suggests that the inner lining of a wetsuit may impact thermoregulation while surfing; however, no prior studies have compared interior materials.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-11-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42453558","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-09DOI: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0035
Ali A. Ali, M. Alshukur, A. Ashmawy, A. Mahmoud, A. Saleh, H. Nassar, B. Yao
Purpose This study aims to show the dyeing behaviour of polyester fabrics using four novel heterocyclic disperse dyes. Design/methodology/approach The four dyes were synthesized based on 5, 5'-(1, 4-phenylene) bis (1, 3, 4-thiadiazol-2-amine) as a diazonium compound. The UV/Vis absorption spectroscopic data of these disperse dyes while dyeing polyester fabrics were investigated. Following this, the dyeing properties of these dyes on polyester fabrics were investigated under acid condition. Findings The results showed that increasing the dyeing temperature from 80°C to 100°C led to an increase in dye uptake for all dyes, but further increases of the temperature to 130°C led to higher dye uptake for dye 3 as the dye exhaustion increased by about 50% from 55.9% to 91.4%. Originality/value This study is important as it introduces new dyes for the dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres with colours that range from yellowish orange to bluish yellow and scarlet red and all with excellent brightness, levelness and depth of shade.
{"title":"Dyeing of polyester fabrics using novel diazo disperse dyes derived from 1, 4-bis (2-amino-1, 3, 4-thiadiazolyl) benzene","authors":"Ali A. Ali, M. Alshukur, A. Ashmawy, A. Mahmoud, A. Saleh, H. Nassar, B. Yao","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0035","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0035","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to show the dyeing behaviour of polyester fabrics using four novel heterocyclic disperse dyes.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The four dyes were synthesized based on 5, 5'-(1, 4-phenylene) bis (1, 3, 4-thiadiazol-2-amine) as a diazonium compound. The UV/Vis absorption spectroscopic data of these disperse dyes while dyeing polyester fabrics were investigated. Following this, the dyeing properties of these dyes on polyester fabrics were investigated under acid condition.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results showed that increasing the dyeing temperature from 80°C to 100°C led to an increase in dye uptake for all dyes, but further increases of the temperature to 130°C led to higher dye uptake for dye 3 as the dye exhaustion increased by about 50% from 55.9% to 91.4%.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study is important as it introduces new dyes for the dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres with colours that range from yellowish orange to bluish yellow and scarlet red and all with excellent brightness, levelness and depth of shade.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-11-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45639274","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-08DOI: 10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0024
Manoj Kumar Imrith, S. Rosunee, R. Unmar
Purpose The thermophysiological comfort of fabrics is prerequisite as customers covet adequate moisture, heat management-supported and UV protective clothing that measure up to their levels of activities and environmental conditions. Hitherto, scant tasks have been reported with the purpose of engineering both comfort and UV protection simultaneously. From that vantage point, the objective of this work is to develop a model for optimum UPF, air permeability, water-vapour resistance, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and areal density of knitted fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Weft knitted fabrics of various compositions were investigated. UPF was tested using the Labsphere UV transmittance analyser. The FX 3300 (Textest instruments) air permeability tester was used to test air permeability. Thermal comfort and water-vapour resistance were evaluated using the Alambeta and Permetest instruments, respectively. Based on image processing, the porosity was measured. Fabrics thickness and areal density were measured according to standard methods. Furthermore, parametric and non-parametric statistical test methods were applied to the data for analysis. Findings Linear regression was substantiated by Kolmogorov-Smirnov test. Then multiple linear regression of porosity and thickness together on UPF and comfort parameters were visually depicted by virtue of 3D linear plots. Residual analysis with quantile-quantile and probability plots, advocated the tests using the Shapiro-Wilk test. The result was validated by comparison with experimental data tested. The samples gave satisfactory relative errors and were supported by the z-test method. All tests indicated failure to reject the null hypothesis. Originality/value The predictive models were embedded into an interactive computer program. Fabric thickness and porosity are the inputs needed to run the program. It will predict the optimum UPF, areal density and thermophysiological comfort parameters. In a nutshell, knitters may use the program to determine optimum structural parameters for diverse permutations of UPF and thermophysiological comfort parameters; scilicet high UV protection together with low thermal insulation combined with low water-vapour resistance and high air permeability.
{"title":"Engineering UPF and comfort parameters of knitted fabrics and validation using statistical techniques","authors":"Manoj Kumar Imrith, S. Rosunee, R. Unmar","doi":"10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0024","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0024","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The thermophysiological comfort of fabrics is prerequisite as customers covet adequate moisture, heat management-supported and UV protective clothing that measure up to their levels of activities and environmental conditions. Hitherto, scant tasks have been reported with the purpose of engineering both comfort and UV protection simultaneously. From that vantage point, the objective of this work is to develop a model for optimum UPF, air permeability, water-vapour resistance, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and areal density of knitted fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Weft knitted fabrics of various compositions were investigated. UPF was tested using the Labsphere UV transmittance analyser. The FX 3300 (Textest instruments) air permeability tester was used to test air permeability. Thermal comfort and water-vapour resistance were evaluated using the Alambeta and Permetest instruments, respectively. Based on image processing, the porosity was measured. Fabrics thickness and areal density were measured according to standard methods. Furthermore, parametric and non-parametric statistical test methods were applied to the data for analysis.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Linear regression was substantiated by Kolmogorov-Smirnov test. Then multiple linear regression of porosity and thickness together on UPF and comfort parameters were visually depicted by virtue of 3D linear plots. Residual analysis with quantile-quantile and probability plots, advocated the tests using the Shapiro-Wilk test. The result was validated by comparison with experimental data tested. The samples gave satisfactory relative errors and were supported by the z-test method. All tests indicated failure to reject the null hypothesis.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The predictive models were embedded into an interactive computer program. Fabric thickness and porosity are the inputs needed to run the program. It will predict the optimum UPF, areal density and thermophysiological comfort parameters. In a nutshell, knitters may use the program to determine optimum structural parameters for diverse permutations of UPF and thermophysiological comfort parameters; scilicet high UV protection together with low thermal insulation combined with low water-vapour resistance and high air permeability.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-11-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41326357","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-02DOI: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0054
Ashis K. Mitra
Purpose The present study aims to demonstrate the application of newly developed combinative distance-based assessment (CODAS) approach for grading and selection of Tossa jute fibres, which possesses some unique features uncommon to other variants of multi-criteria decision-making (MCDM) method. Design/methodology/approach The CODAS method was used in this study to rank/grade ten candidate lots of Tossa fibres on the basis of six apposite jute fibre properties, namely, fibre defect, root content, fineness, strength, colour and density. These six fibre properties were considered as the six decision criteria, here, and they were assigned weights as determined previously by an earlier researcher using analytic hierarchy process. The grading of jute fibres was done based on a comprehensive single index known as the assessment scores (Hi), in descending order of magnitude. Findings Among the 10 Tossa jute lots, T2 was ranked 1 (top grade) because of the highest assessment score of 6.887, followed by T1 with Rank 2 (assessment score 1.830). Because of the least assessment score of −2.795, the candidate lot T4 was considered as the worst, and hence ranked 10. The overall ranking pattern given by the CODAS method was similar to the TOPSIS approach done by Ghosh and Das (2013). This study was supported by various sensitivity analyses to judge the efficacy of the present approach. No occurrence of rank reversal during the sensitivity analyses obviously corroborates the robustness and stability of the CODAS method. Practical implications Jute pricing is fixed solely by the quality for which grading of fibre is prerequisite. The traditional “Hand and Eye” method or Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) system for jute grading is basically subjective assessment and need domain expertise. MCDM is reported as the most viable solution which gives due importance to the fibre parameters while grading the fibres based on a single index. The present study demonstrates the maiden application of CODAS to address the fibre grading problems for jute industries. This approach can also be extended to solve other decision problems of textile industry, in general. Originality/value CODAS is a recently developed exponent of MCDM. Uniqueness of the present study lies in the fact that this is the first ever application of CODAS in the domain of textile industry, in general, and jute industry, in particular. CODAS approach is very simple involving a few simple mathematical equations yet a potent tool of decision-making. This method possesses some features uncommon in other variants of MCDM. Moreover, the efficacy of CODAS method is investigated through various sensitivity analyses, which has been ignored in the earlier approaches.
{"title":"Combinative distance-based assessment (CODAS) approach of multi-criteria decision-making for grading of Tossa jute fibres","authors":"Ashis K. Mitra","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0054","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0054","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The present study aims to demonstrate the application of newly developed combinative distance-based assessment (CODAS) approach for grading and selection of Tossa jute fibres, which possesses some unique features uncommon to other variants of multi-criteria decision-making (MCDM) method.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The CODAS method was used in this study to rank/grade ten candidate lots of Tossa fibres on the basis of six apposite jute fibre properties, namely, fibre defect, root content, fineness, strength, colour and density. These six fibre properties were considered as the six decision criteria, here, and they were assigned weights as determined previously by an earlier researcher using analytic hierarchy process. The grading of jute fibres was done based on a comprehensive single index known as the assessment scores (Hi), in descending order of magnitude.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Among the 10 Tossa jute lots, T2 was ranked 1 (top grade) because of the highest assessment score of 6.887, followed by T1 with Rank 2 (assessment score 1.830). Because of the least assessment score of −2.795, the candidate lot T4 was considered as the worst, and hence ranked 10. The overall ranking pattern given by the CODAS method was similar to the TOPSIS approach done by Ghosh and Das (2013). This study was supported by various sensitivity analyses to judge the efficacy of the present approach. No occurrence of rank reversal during the sensitivity analyses obviously corroborates the robustness and stability of the CODAS method.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000Jute pricing is fixed solely by the quality for which grading of fibre is prerequisite. The traditional “Hand and Eye” method or Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) system for jute grading is basically subjective assessment and need domain expertise. MCDM is reported as the most viable solution which gives due importance to the fibre parameters while grading the fibres based on a single index. The present study demonstrates the maiden application of CODAS to address the fibre grading problems for jute industries. This approach can also be extended to solve other decision problems of textile industry, in general.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000CODAS is a recently developed exponent of MCDM. Uniqueness of the present study lies in the fact that this is the first ever application of CODAS in the domain of textile industry, in general, and jute industry, in particular. CODAS approach is very simple involving a few simple mathematical equations yet a potent tool of decision-making. This method possesses some features uncommon in other variants of MCDM. Moreover, the efficacy of CODAS method is investigated through various sensitivity analyses, which has been ignored in the earlier approaches.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-11-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48746722","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-10-24DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2021-0097
Lami Amanuel Erana
Purpose The purpose of this research is to develop an environmentally friendly antimicrobial dyeing of cotton fabric from the root of Euclea racemosa. Textile phytochemical finishing is in high demand worldwide because of its low toxicity, low pollution, ease of availability, renewability, pharmacological effects and non-carcinogenic properties, as well as its multifunctionality, rapid process stages and potential health benefit. Design/methodology/approach The cotton fabric was dyed with aqueous extracts of Euclea racemosa root dyes. Dyes were extracted for 20 min at pH 7.43 at room and boiling temperatures with material-to-liquor ratios (MLRs) of 1:5, 1:10, 1:15 and 1:20, altering one variable at a time, and the cotton fabric was colored using a post-mordanting procedure at 50°C with an MLR of 1:20. Using a properly cleaned Petri plate, the colored samples were tested in vitro for antibacterial activity. A spectrophotometer was used to assess color strength and shade depth, as well as wash fastness and annual rubbing fastness tests for both wet and dry. Findings L* = 36.29, a* = 58.56, b* = 32.46 and K/S = 0.51 were the CIELAB values for dye extracted at boiling temperature. L* = 47.14, a* = 42.23, b* = 49.61 and K/S = 0.38 were the CIELAB values for dye extracted at room temperature. The wash and rubbing fastness of the dyed samples were outstanding and the dyed cotton fabrics were found antibacterial against Gram-negative bacteria Escherichia coli. Originality/value Dyes derived from the E. racemosa root could be used to develop a new antibacterial cotton fabric dye.
{"title":"Antimicrobial dyeing of cotton from Euclea racemosa root","authors":"Lami Amanuel Erana","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2021-0097","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2021-0097","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this research is to develop an environmentally friendly antimicrobial dyeing of cotton fabric from the root of Euclea racemosa. Textile phytochemical finishing is in high demand worldwide because of its low toxicity, low pollution, ease of availability, renewability, pharmacological effects and non-carcinogenic properties, as well as its multifunctionality, rapid process stages and potential health benefit.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The cotton fabric was dyed with aqueous extracts of Euclea racemosa root dyes. Dyes were extracted for 20 min at pH 7.43 at room and boiling temperatures with material-to-liquor ratios (MLRs) of 1:5, 1:10, 1:15 and 1:20, altering one variable at a time, and the cotton fabric was colored using a post-mordanting procedure at 50°C with an MLR of 1:20. Using a properly cleaned Petri plate, the colored samples were tested in vitro for antibacterial activity. A spectrophotometer was used to assess color strength and shade depth, as well as wash fastness and annual rubbing fastness tests for both wet and dry.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000L* = 36.29, a* = 58.56, b* = 32.46 and K/S = 0.51 were the CIELAB values for dye extracted at boiling temperature. L* = 47.14, a* = 42.23, b* = 49.61 and K/S = 0.38 were the CIELAB values for dye extracted at room temperature. The wash and rubbing fastness of the dyed samples were outstanding and the dyed cotton fabrics were found antibacterial against Gram-negative bacteria Escherichia coli.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Dyes derived from the E. racemosa root could be used to develop a new antibacterial cotton fabric dye.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-10-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45156029","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-10-17DOI: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0044
Subhasis Das, Anindya Ghosh
Purpose In recent years, rough set theory has evolved as one of the most promising classification techniques. One of the cardinal uses of rough set theory is its application for rule generation. The purpose of this paper is to propose a real-time fabric inspection technique. This work deals with the multi-class classification of fabric defects using rough set theory. Design/methodology/approach This technique focuses on the classification of fabric defects using the effective decision rules envisaged by rough set theory. In the proposed work, the six features of 50 images have been used for multiclass classification of fabric defects. Findings In this work, 40 images were used for generation of decision rules and 10 unseen images were used for validation out of which nine images are accurately predicted by the proposed technique. Originality/value The proposed method accurately identified 9 out of 10 testing defects. The obtained decision rules provide an insight about the classification method which ensures that the prediction accuracy can be improved further by framing more robust decision rules with the help of a large training data set. Thus, with the support of modern computational systems this method is potent in getting recognition from the textile industry as a real-time classification technique.
{"title":"A rough set approach for classification of fabric defects","authors":"Subhasis Das, Anindya Ghosh","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0044","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0044","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000In recent years, rough set theory has evolved as one of the most promising classification techniques. One of the cardinal uses of rough set theory is its application for rule generation. The purpose of this paper is to propose a real-time fabric inspection technique. This work deals with the multi-class classification of fabric defects using rough set theory.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This technique focuses on the classification of fabric defects using the effective decision rules envisaged by rough set theory. In the proposed work, the six features of 50 images have been used for multiclass classification of fabric defects.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000In this work, 40 images were used for generation of decision rules and 10 unseen images were used for validation out of which nine images are accurately predicted by the proposed technique.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The proposed method accurately identified 9 out of 10 testing defects. The obtained decision rules provide an insight about the classification method which ensures that the prediction accuracy can be improved further by framing more robust decision rules with the help of a large training data set. Thus, with the support of modern computational systems this method is potent in getting recognition from the textile industry as a real-time classification technique.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-10-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42184547","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-10-10DOI: 10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0016
Manoj Kumar Imrith, S. Rosunee, R. Unmar
Purpose Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is highly cherished for summerwear, it is sine qua non to understand the structural parameters that effectively strike a good balance between UV protection and thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Relatively heavy fabrics protect from UVR, but comfort is compromised because of waning porosity, increase in thickness and thermal insulation. The purpose of this paper is to engineer knits that will bestow maximum UV protection while preserving the thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Design/methodology/approach In total, 27 cotton single jersey fabrics with different areal densities and yarn counts were selected. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated based on the work of Imrith (2022). To précis, the authors constructed a UV box to measure the UPF of fabrics, denoted as UPFB. UPFB data were correlated with AATCC 183-2004 and yielded high correlation, R2 0.977. It was concluded that UPF 50 corresponds to UPFB 94.3. Thermal comfort properties were measured on the Alambeta and water-vapour resistance on the Permetest. Linear programming (LP) was used to optimize UPFB and comfort. Linear optimization focused on maximizing UPFB while keeping the thermophysiological comfort and areal density as constraints. Findings The resulting linear geometrical and sensitivity analyses generated multiple technically feasible solutions of fabrics thickness and porosity that gave valid UPFB, thermal absorptivity and water-vapour and thermal resistance. Subsequently, an interactive optimization software was developed to predict the stitch length, tightness factor and yarn count for optimum UPFB from a given areal density. The predicted values were then used to knit seven 100% cotton single jersey fabrics and were tested for UV protection. All seven fabrics gave UPFB above the threshold, that is, higher than 94.3. The mathematical model demonstrated good correlations with the optimized parameters and experimental values. Originality/value The optimization software predicted the optimum UPFB reasonably well, starting from the fabric structural and constructional parameters. In addition, the models were developed as interactive user interfaces, which can be used by knitted fabric developers to engineer cotton knits for maximizing UV protection without compromising thermophysiological comfort. It has been demonstrated that LP is an efficient tool for the optimization and prediction of targeted knitted fabrics parameters.
{"title":"Structural modelling of 100% cotton single jersey fabrics for optimum UV protection","authors":"Manoj Kumar Imrith, S. Rosunee, R. Unmar","doi":"10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0016","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is highly cherished for summerwear, it is sine qua non to understand the structural parameters that effectively strike a good balance between UV protection and thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Relatively heavy fabrics protect from UVR, but comfort is compromised because of waning porosity, increase in thickness and thermal insulation. The purpose of this paper is to engineer knits that will bestow maximum UV protection while preserving the thermophysiological comfort of the wearer.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000In total, 27 cotton single jersey fabrics with different areal densities and yarn counts were selected. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated based on the work of Imrith (2022). To précis, the authors constructed a UV box to measure the UPF of fabrics, denoted as UPFB. UPFB data were correlated with AATCC 183-2004 and yielded high correlation, R2 0.977. It was concluded that UPF 50 corresponds to UPFB 94.3. Thermal comfort properties were measured on the Alambeta and water-vapour resistance on the Permetest. Linear programming (LP) was used to optimize UPFB and comfort. Linear optimization focused on maximizing UPFB while keeping the thermophysiological comfort and areal density as constraints.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The resulting linear geometrical and sensitivity analyses generated multiple technically feasible solutions of fabrics thickness and porosity that gave valid UPFB, thermal absorptivity and water-vapour and thermal resistance. Subsequently, an interactive optimization software was developed to predict the stitch length, tightness factor and yarn count for optimum UPFB from a given areal density. The predicted values were then used to knit seven 100% cotton single jersey fabrics and were tested for UV protection. All seven fabrics gave UPFB above the threshold, that is, higher than 94.3. The mathematical model demonstrated good correlations with the optimized parameters and experimental values.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The optimization software predicted the optimum UPFB reasonably well, starting from the fabric structural and constructional parameters. In addition, the models were developed as interactive user interfaces, which can be used by knitted fabric developers to engineer cotton knits for maximizing UV protection without compromising thermophysiological comfort. It has been demonstrated that LP is an efficient tool for the optimization and prediction of targeted knitted fabrics parameters.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-10-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44450406","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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