Pub Date : 2023-01-12DOI: 10.1108/rjta-10-2022-0122
Udeni Kumarapeli, V. Ratnayake, Sanath Siroshana Jayawardana
Purpose Technological innovation is one of the strongest driving forces in the survival and growth of any organization, including textile and apparel industries. However, technological innovation inherits a wide array of risks due to the uncertainty involved in it. In-depth research reveals the existence of a significant relationship between innovation failures and the approach used to innovate, that is, the organization’s innovator type. However, quantitative evidence supporting this concern is still lacking. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to bridge the existing gap in the literature on effective management of technological innovation risk factors and the innovator type of textile and apparel industries. Design/methodology/approach The risk factors related to technological innovations are identified under different innovator types. Analytic network process (ANP) has been used to evaluate the contribution of risk factors according to the innovator type of the organization. Data was gathered through the literature review and structured and semi structured interviews with textile and apparel industry experts. The contribution of risk factors was determined through priorities, derived according to the ANP using Super Decision software. Findings Contribution of risk factors takes different values according to innovator type. This provides comprehensive knowledge on developing a risk management strategy according to the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, this provides insight into the fact that a generalized risk management strategy will not be effective and sensible for all innovator types. Originality/value The findings provide a thorough understanding of developing a customized risk management strategy by determining the “most to least” criticality of risks based on the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, findings can be used to adopt the most appropriate innovator type based on the organization’s key competencies. Moreover, this guides the organization in making the best use of internal resources during risk management. Furthermore, this provides insight into the risk factors that must be addressed prior to embarking on new innovative approaches.
{"title":"Development of a risk model for different innovator types in textile and apparel industries","authors":"Udeni Kumarapeli, V. Ratnayake, Sanath Siroshana Jayawardana","doi":"10.1108/rjta-10-2022-0122","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-10-2022-0122","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Technological innovation is one of the strongest driving forces in the survival and growth of any organization, including textile and apparel industries. However, technological innovation inherits a wide array of risks due to the uncertainty involved in it. In-depth research reveals the existence of a significant relationship between innovation failures and the approach used to innovate, that is, the organization’s innovator type. However, quantitative evidence supporting this concern is still lacking. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to bridge the existing gap in the literature on effective management of technological innovation risk factors and the innovator type of textile and apparel industries.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The risk factors related to technological innovations are identified under different innovator types. Analytic network process (ANP) has been used to evaluate the contribution of risk factors according to the innovator type of the organization. Data was gathered through the literature review and structured and semi structured interviews with textile and apparel industry experts. The contribution of risk factors was determined through priorities, derived according to the ANP using Super Decision software.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Contribution of risk factors takes different values according to innovator type. This provides comprehensive knowledge on developing a risk management strategy according to the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, this provides insight into the fact that a generalized risk management strategy will not be effective and sensible for all innovator types.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The findings provide a thorough understanding of developing a customized risk management strategy by determining the “most to least” criticality of risks based on the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, findings can be used to adopt the most appropriate innovator type based on the organization’s key competencies. Moreover, this guides the organization in making the best use of internal resources during risk management. Furthermore, this provides insight into the risk factors that must be addressed prior to embarking on new innovative approaches.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45143045","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-12DOI: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0048
M. K. Paras, Rudrajeet Pal, Daniel Ekwall
Purpose The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process. Design/methodology/approach An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software. Findings This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process. Research limitations/implications The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage. Originality/value This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.
{"title":"An exploratory study of Swedish and Romanian organisations to investigate upcycling practice in the clothing industry","authors":"M. K. Paras, Rudrajeet Pal, Daniel Ekwall","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0048","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0048","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46831313","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-05DOI: 10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0071
H. Phan, H. Bui, N. Vu
Purpose Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics. Design/methodology/approach Fabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume. Findings This research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods. Practical implications Our globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature. Originality/value This research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.
{"title":"Fabrication of fabric-like bacterial cellulose/activated carbon membrane for filtering layer applications of face masks by using textile padding method","authors":"H. Phan, H. Bui, N. Vu","doi":"10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0071","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0071","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Fabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000This research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000Our globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47960243","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-05DOI: 10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0113
Miriam Keegan, Sheng-Guo Lu
Purpose Given the heated academic and policy debate regarding the fate of garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed economy in the 21st century, this study aims to explore the production and export strategies of apparel “Made in Ireland.” Design/methodology/approach A logistic regression analysis of 4,000 apparel items at the stock keeping unit (SKU) level sold in the market from January 2018 to December 2021 was conducted to evaluate the production and export strategy of apparel “Made in Ireland” versus foreign-made imported items sold in Ireland. Findings The statistical results showed that Ireland’s apparel manufacturing sector survived the market competition by leveraging non-price competing factors, such as distinct product assortment, cultural heritage, history and traditional craftsmanship. Originality/value The findings challenged the conclusions of the classic trade and economic development theories regarding the trajectory of the garment manufacturing sector and called for a rethink about the strategies for expanding garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed country in today’s global economy.
{"title":"Can garment production survive in a developed economy in the 21st century? A study of “Made in Ireland”","authors":"Miriam Keegan, Sheng-Guo Lu","doi":"10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0113","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0113","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Given the heated academic and policy debate regarding the fate of garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed economy in the 21st century, this study aims to explore the production and export strategies of apparel “Made in Ireland.”\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A logistic regression analysis of 4,000 apparel items at the stock keeping unit (SKU) level sold in the market from January 2018 to December 2021 was conducted to evaluate the production and export strategy of apparel “Made in Ireland” versus foreign-made imported items sold in Ireland.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The statistical results showed that Ireland’s apparel manufacturing sector survived the market competition by leveraging non-price competing factors, such as distinct product assortment, cultural heritage, history and traditional craftsmanship.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The findings challenged the conclusions of the classic trade and economic development theories regarding the trajectory of the garment manufacturing sector and called for a rethink about the strategies for expanding garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed country in today’s global economy.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46555286","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-03DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0093
Nilam C. Patel, D. Desai, P. N. Patel
Purpose This paper aims to develop a novel protocol for the synthesis of disperse dyes derived by a triple cascade reaction with lawsone in presence of Zn acetate as a catalyst. The developed novel scaffolds have efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. Design/methodology/approach This report demonstrates an effectual triple cascade protocol for the synthesis of novel disperse dyes derived from various polynuclear carbaldehyde, urea and lawsone. The Zn acetate was found to be an effective catalyst for this reaction. Their dyeing performance has been studied on nylon and polyester fabrics. The wash fastness, sublimation fastness, color assessment, determination of percentage exhaustion and fixation properties were applied to both the dyed fabrics. Findings The obtained results indicate that the Zn acetate is an efficient catalyst for the developed triple cascade protocol. The prepared novel disperse dye greatly impacted their dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. They have shown brilliant shades, higher affinity, adsorption capacity, superior tinctorial strength than the lawsone. The percentage exhaustion value, fixation value, color strength (K/s) value, washing and sublimation fastness properties have been found very well in all dyed nylon samples compared to polyester samples. These results discloses that these disperses dyes are very useful to the growing importance of nylon and polyester fibers. Research limitations/implications The present protocol synthesizes the racemic mixture of the prepared molecules. Practical implications Developed protocol can be used for various other triple cascade processes. Also these molecules can be used for dyeing of other fabrics. Social implications With the help of commercialization of prepared molecules, it may provide the better alternative of the current disperse dyes. This may affect the various segments of society. Originality/value This report represents a novel protocol for the synthesis of modified novel disperse dyes with an efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.
{"title":"Study of lawsone and its modified disperse dyes derived by triple cascade reaction: dyeing performance on nylon and polyester fabrics","authors":"Nilam C. Patel, D. Desai, P. N. Patel","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0093","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0093","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This paper aims to develop a novel protocol for the synthesis of disperse dyes derived by a triple cascade reaction with lawsone in presence of Zn acetate as a catalyst. The developed novel scaffolds have efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This report demonstrates an effectual triple cascade protocol for the synthesis of novel disperse dyes derived from various polynuclear carbaldehyde, urea and lawsone. The Zn acetate was found to be an effective catalyst for this reaction. Their dyeing performance has been studied on nylon and polyester fabrics. The wash fastness, sublimation fastness, color assessment, determination of percentage exhaustion and fixation properties were applied to both the dyed fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The obtained results indicate that the Zn acetate is an efficient catalyst for the developed triple cascade protocol. The prepared novel disperse dye greatly impacted their dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. They have shown brilliant shades, higher affinity, adsorption capacity, superior tinctorial strength than the lawsone. The percentage exhaustion value, fixation value, color strength (K/s) value, washing and sublimation fastness properties have been found very well in all dyed nylon samples compared to polyester samples. These results discloses that these disperses dyes are very useful to the growing importance of nylon and polyester fibers.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000The present protocol synthesizes the racemic mixture of the prepared molecules.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000Developed protocol can be used for various other triple cascade processes. Also these molecules can be used for dyeing of other fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Social implications\u0000With the help of commercialization of prepared molecules, it may provide the better alternative of the current disperse dyes. This may affect the various segments of society.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This report represents a novel protocol for the synthesis of modified novel disperse dyes with an efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45504515","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-02DOI: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0041
Ana Aline Mendes Paim, Morgana Carneiro de Andrade, Fernanda Steffens
Purpose Given the COVID-19 Pandemic outbreak and the role of medical textiles for protection, this study aims to identify the leading research foci on using textile materials for personal protection in pandemic situations. Design/methodology/approach A systematic review and systemic analysis of the literature on the subject were performed using the process knowledge development – constructivist (ProKnow-C) methodology. Findings A bibliographic portfolio with 16 relevant studies was obtained. This portfolio represents the main focus of this research field, including the main filtration mechanisms, ways of disinfecting N95 respirators and proposed methods to evaluate the filtration efficiency of different materials with potential for mask development. Originality/value To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time the ProKnow-C methodology was used in the textile field. Thus, future studies can benefit from using the Proknow-C for selecting and analyzing relevant textile studies following a systematic approach.
{"title":"The use of textile materials for respiratory protection in times of pandemics: a systematic review and analysis","authors":"Ana Aline Mendes Paim, Morgana Carneiro de Andrade, Fernanda Steffens","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0041","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0041","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Given the COVID-19 Pandemic outbreak and the role of medical textiles for protection, this study aims to identify the leading research foci on using textile materials for personal protection in pandemic situations.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A systematic review and systemic analysis of the literature on the subject were performed using the process knowledge development – constructivist (ProKnow-C) methodology.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000A bibliographic portfolio with 16 relevant studies was obtained. This portfolio represents the main focus of this research field, including the main filtration mechanisms, ways of disinfecting N95 respirators and proposed methods to evaluate the filtration efficiency of different materials with potential for mask development.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time the ProKnow-C methodology was used in the textile field. Thus, future studies can benefit from using the Proknow-C for selecting and analyzing relevant textile studies following a systematic approach.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44558660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-12-30DOI: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0049
Ahmed Ramadan Abd El-Hamied EL-Tantawi
Purpose This study aims to show that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the twill angle line and its direction (twill S or Z). The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill angle in reverse, with the warp tension when changed from cotton to lycra filling yarns. Design/methodology/approach The experimental analytical method. Findings The most significant goals presented from this investigation are cost savings, time of production and metaphorically; new demands on denim fabric patterns presented. Originality/value Moving away from just chasing cheap, more innovative and progressive for manufacturing and end users search for denim, this paper served to shift the market share map for denim manufacturers, which is looks on nearly the most common problem facing the denim industry; skewness.
{"title":"Statistical insights on the effect of twill angle on denim fabrics Skewness","authors":"Ahmed Ramadan Abd El-Hamied EL-Tantawi","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0049","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0049","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to show that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the twill angle line and its direction (twill S or Z). The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill angle in reverse, with the warp tension when changed from cotton to lycra filling yarns.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The experimental analytical method.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The most significant goals presented from this investigation are cost savings, time of production and metaphorically; new demands on denim fabric patterns presented.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Moving away from just chasing cheap, more innovative and progressive for manufacturing and end users search for denim, this paper served to shift the market share map for denim manufacturers, which is looks on nearly the most common problem facing the denim industry; skewness.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-12-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43364188","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-12-21DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0101
Tina Martina, Wiah Wardiningsih, Ajeng Rianti, Ryan Rudy, Samuel Pradana
Purpose The purpose of this study was to characterize the fiber from Curcuma longa (turmeric) stems. The fiber’s properties were used to assess its potential for textile yarn production. Design/methodology/approach The natural fiber used in this investigation was extracted from agricultural waste through a cold water-retting process. Findings The Curcuma longa fiber had a crystallinity of 50%. Cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin were detected in the fibers’ Fourier transform infrared spectra. A Curcuma longa fiber bundle contains several constituent fibers. The fibers exhibited an irregular cross-section, with a variable oval shape for the lumen. The fibers of Curcuma longa averaged 30.22 cm in length. The fineness of the fibers was 6.58 Tex. In this study, Curcuma longa fibers had an 11.30% moisture regain. The tensile strength of the fibers was 19.18 g/Tex. Curcuma longa fibers showed a break elongation of 9.79%. The fiber coefficient of friction was 0.3. Originality/value Curcuma longa has characteristics that make it appropriate for industrial uses like spinning. Thus, it is possible to use Curcuma longa fiber as a raw material for textiles.
{"title":"An investigation into the potential of water retted fiber from agricultural waste of Curcuma longa plant for textile application","authors":"Tina Martina, Wiah Wardiningsih, Ajeng Rianti, Ryan Rudy, Samuel Pradana","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0101","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0101","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this study was to characterize the fiber from Curcuma longa (turmeric) stems. The fiber’s properties were used to assess its potential for textile yarn production.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The natural fiber used in this investigation was extracted from agricultural waste through a cold water-retting process.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The Curcuma longa fiber had a crystallinity of 50%. Cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin were detected in the fibers’ Fourier transform infrared spectra. A Curcuma longa fiber bundle contains several constituent fibers. The fibers exhibited an irregular cross-section, with a variable oval shape for the lumen. The fibers of Curcuma longa averaged 30.22 cm in length. The fineness of the fibers was 6.58 Tex. In this study, Curcuma longa fibers had an 11.30% moisture regain. The tensile strength of the fibers was 19.18 g/Tex. Curcuma longa fibers showed a break elongation of 9.79%. The fiber coefficient of friction was 0.3.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Curcuma longa has characteristics that make it appropriate for industrial uses like spinning. Thus, it is possible to use Curcuma longa fiber as a raw material for textiles.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-12-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49212241","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-12-14DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0092
Priyabrata Mondal, P. Jana
Purpose Automation and the new buzzword, “Industry 4.0”, have dominated the media headlines in recent months. In this scenario, apparel manufacturers should not only install automatic machines but also standardise them based on specific industry requirements, and precise measures are required for daily target demands. Design/methodology/approach This study demonstrates the application of Predetermined Motion and Time System (PMTS) tools in various automatic and semiautomatic machines to obtain higher productivity and the highest utilisation percentage of operator and automats between the 1:1 and 1:2 man vs machine configuration models. In this study, timeSSD® was used to calculate the micro motions of humans. In addition, a video annotation and modelling software Tracker was used to calculate high-speed machine movements with loading frames of 30 FPS. Findings After the implementation of PMTS tools, it was found that for a 1:1 man vs machine configuration, the operator utilisation is 75% per shift and the operator idle time is 50% per cycle time, and the operator is sitting idle for 2 h per 8 h of shift. So, there is scope to improve the utilisation and idle time of operator. Research limitations/implications With the PMTS software, an industrial engineer professional with knowledge of the micromotion economy can only calculate micromotion. Originality/value Exploring the first time in the world to establish standard allowed minute (SAM) of a partly automated single-unit sewing machine with partial human intervention and a semiautomatic machine. Theoretical underpinnings indicate that manufacturers use the experience to determine the SAM of any operation over time, necessitating this work to calculate standard minutes automatically.
{"title":"Application of predetermined motion and time system in sewing automat to enhance the productivity and operator utilisation","authors":"Priyabrata Mondal, P. Jana","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0092","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0092","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Automation and the new buzzword, “Industry 4.0”, have dominated the media headlines in recent months. In this scenario, apparel manufacturers should not only install automatic machines but also standardise them based on specific industry requirements, and precise measures are required for daily target demands.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This study demonstrates the application of Predetermined Motion and Time System (PMTS) tools in various automatic and semiautomatic machines to obtain higher productivity and the highest utilisation percentage of operator and automats between the 1:1 and 1:2 man vs machine configuration models. In this study, timeSSD® was used to calculate the micro motions of humans. In addition, a video annotation and modelling software Tracker was used to calculate high-speed machine movements with loading frames of 30 FPS.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000After the implementation of PMTS tools, it was found that for a 1:1 man vs machine configuration, the operator utilisation is 75% per shift and the operator idle time is 50% per cycle time, and the operator is sitting idle for 2 h per 8 h of shift. So, there is scope to improve the utilisation and idle time of operator.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000With the PMTS software, an industrial engineer professional with knowledge of the micromotion economy can only calculate micromotion.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Exploring the first time in the world to establish standard allowed minute (SAM) of a partly automated single-unit sewing machine with partial human intervention and a semiautomatic machine. Theoretical underpinnings indicate that manufacturers use the experience to determine the SAM of any operation over time, necessitating this work to calculate standard minutes automatically.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-12-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42935779","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-12-13DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0089
C. Pham, H. Phan, Thao Thanh Hoang, Tien Thi Thuy Dao, H. Bui
Purpose The health and environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes have led to a revival of natural dyes that are non-toxic, environmentally benign and coupled with various functions. The study aims to investigate and develop the potentiality of a popular herb called Chromolaena odorata (C. odorata) as a sustainable and stable dyestuff in textiles. Design/methodology/approach Natural colorant extracted from C. odorata leaves is used to dye the worsted fabric, which is one of the premier end-use of wool in fashion, via the padding method associated with pre-, simultaneous and post-mordanting with chitosan, tannic acid and copper sulfate pentahydrate. The effects of extraction, dyeing and mordanting processes on fabric’s color strength K/S and color difference ΔECMC are investigated via International Commission on Illumination’s L*a*b* color space, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. Findings The results obtained indicate extraction with ethanol 90% with a solid/liquid ratio of 1:5 within 1 h, and coloration with a liquor ratio of 1:5 (pH 5) within 2 h under padding pressure of 0.3 MPa are the most effective for coloring worsted fabric. Practical implications The C. odorata’s application as a highly effective dyestuff possessing good colorimetric effectiveness has expanded this herb's economic potential, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to wool in global supply chain. Originality/value C. odorata dyestuff has prevailed over other natural colorants because of its impressive color fastness against washing, rubbing, perspiration and especially color stability for pH change.
{"title":"A study on the coloration effectiveness of Chromolaena odorata on the worsted wool fabric","authors":"C. Pham, H. Phan, Thao Thanh Hoang, Tien Thi Thuy Dao, H. Bui","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0089","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0089","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The health and environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes have led to a revival of natural dyes that are non-toxic, environmentally benign and coupled with various functions. The study aims to investigate and develop the potentiality of a popular herb called Chromolaena odorata (C. odorata) as a sustainable and stable dyestuff in textiles.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Natural colorant extracted from C. odorata leaves is used to dye the worsted fabric, which is one of the premier end-use of wool in fashion, via the padding method associated with pre-, simultaneous and post-mordanting with chitosan, tannic acid and copper sulfate pentahydrate. The effects of extraction, dyeing and mordanting processes on fabric’s color strength K/S and color difference ΔECMC are investigated via International Commission on Illumination’s L*a*b* color space, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results obtained indicate extraction with ethanol 90% with a solid/liquid ratio of 1:5 within 1 h, and coloration with a liquor ratio of 1:5 (pH 5) within 2 h under padding pressure of 0.3 MPa are the most effective for coloring worsted fabric.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The C. odorata’s application as a highly effective dyestuff possessing good colorimetric effectiveness has expanded this herb's economic potential, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to wool in global supply chain.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000C. odorata dyestuff has prevailed over other natural colorants because of its impressive color fastness against washing, rubbing, perspiration and especially color stability for pH change.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-12-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43940458","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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