Pub Date : 2023-03-27DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0091
Vita Sarasi, I. Primiana, Budi Harsanto, Yayan Satyakti
Purpose As a leading sector that has entered the international market, the Indonesian Textile and Apparel (T&A) industry has begun to focus on sustainability issues; however, this study is still limited. This paper aims to conduct a systematic review and explore future research opportunities in developing sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) in the T&A industry in Indonesia, particularly in the small- and medium-sized enterprise (SME) sector. Design/methodology/approach A systematic literature review (SLR) through five academic databases, including Science Direct, IEEE Explore, Scopus, Google Scholar and Web of Science, was conducted and followed by a content analysis of the selected papers. Findings Directions for future research include designing a standardized and sustainable measurement of SSCM performance; analyzing SSCM practices in T&A SMEs through the concept of sustainable entrepreneurs; and exploring the application of a circular economy in the T&A industry, known as circular fashion, which is preferred by the community, affordable and environmentally friendly. Research limitations/implications This research only used secondary data. In-depth interviews with relevant experts should also be conducted to get a more comprehensive picture of this issue. Originality/value To the best of the author’s knowledge, this is the first SLR analyzing the implementation of SSCM in the T&A industry in Indonesia.
作为已进入国际市场的领先行业，印尼纺织服装(T&A)行业已开始关注可持续性问题;然而，这项研究仍然是有限的。本文旨在进行系统的审查，并探讨未来的研究机会，在发展可持续供应链管理(SSCM)在印尼的T&A行业，特别是在中小企业(SME)部门。设计/方法/方法通过Science Direct、IEEE Explore、Scopus、b谷歌Scholar和Web of Science等5个学术数据库进行系统文献综述(SLR)，并对入选论文进行内容分析。未来的研究方向包括设计标准化和可持续的SSCM绩效测量;通过可持续企业家的概念分析T&A中小企业的SSCM实践;探索循环经济在T&A行业的应用，被称为循环时尚，这是社会的首选，价格合理，环保。研究局限性/启示本研究仅使用了二手数据。还应深入采访有关专家，以更全面地了解这一问题。原创性/价值据笔者所知，这是第一本分析印尼T&A行业实施SSCM的单反。
{"title":"Sustainable supply chain of Indonesia’s textile & apparel industry: opportunities and challenges","authors":"Vita Sarasi, I. Primiana, Budi Harsanto, Yayan Satyakti","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0091","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0091","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose As a leading sector that has entered the international market, the Indonesian Textile and Apparel (T&A) industry has begun to focus on sustainability issues; however, this study is still limited. This paper aims to conduct a systematic review and explore future research opportunities in developing sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) in the T&A industry in Indonesia, particularly in the small- and medium-sized enterprise (SME) sector. Design/methodology/approach A systematic literature review (SLR) through five academic databases, including Science Direct, IEEE Explore, Scopus, Google Scholar and Web of Science, was conducted and followed by a content analysis of the selected papers. Findings Directions for future research include designing a standardized and sustainable measurement of SSCM performance; analyzing SSCM practices in T&A SMEs through the concept of sustainable entrepreneurs; and exploring the application of a circular economy in the T&A industry, known as circular fashion, which is preferred by the community, affordable and environmentally friendly. Research limitations/implications This research only used secondary data. In-depth interviews with relevant experts should also be conducted to get a more comprehensive picture of this issue. Originality/value To the best of the author’s knowledge, this is the first SLR analyzing the implementation of SSCM in the T&A industry in Indonesia.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-03-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42360391","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-22DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0083
Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, M. Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, I. Jurinskaya, Marzhan Kalmakhanova
Purpose This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. Design/methodology/approach The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed. Findings It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric. Originality/value It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.
{"title":"Influence of tuck stitches on the physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics","authors":"Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, M. Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, I. Jurinskaya, Marzhan Kalmakhanova","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0083","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0083","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-03-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43394742","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-07DOI: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0058
Nazmiye Tufan Tolmaç, Ö. E. İşmal
Purpose This study aims to produce textile-like surfaces using fused deposition modelling (FDM) 3D printers and create a garment collection. Design/methodology/approach Experiments were conducted using different types of materials in FDM 3D printers until the sufficient flexibility was achieved to create textile-like structures. During the research, properties of polylactic acid (PLA), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) were observed. Geometrical patterns were printed and each of them gave a different result depending on the pattern. Based on the information obtained from the experiments, a garment collection with four total looks was designed inspired by Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”. Findings Among the materials used, TPU, a flexible filament, yielded the best results. Because of the rigid properties of PLA and ABS, chain-like structures were printed to create relatively flexible surfaces, but the results were still not successful enough to create a clothing material. Therefore, TPU was preferred for the garment material selection. Originality/value In this study, combinations of 3D printed flexible structures and different types of fabrics were used to create a garment collection. It was concluded that, with the right material selection, 3D printing can be used as an alternative method to create a new aesthetic language in fashion design.
{"title":"A new era: 3D printing as an aesthetic language and creative tool in fashion and textile design","authors":"Nazmiye Tufan Tolmaç, Ö. E. İşmal","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0058","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0058","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to produce textile-like surfaces using fused deposition modelling (FDM) 3D printers and create a garment collection.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Experiments were conducted using different types of materials in FDM 3D printers until the sufficient flexibility was achieved to create textile-like structures. During the research, properties of polylactic acid (PLA), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) were observed. Geometrical patterns were printed and each of them gave a different result depending on the pattern. Based on the information obtained from the experiments, a garment collection with four total looks was designed inspired by Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Among the materials used, TPU, a flexible filament, yielded the best results. Because of the rigid properties of PLA and ABS, chain-like structures were printed to create relatively flexible surfaces, but the results were still not successful enough to create a clothing material. Therefore, TPU was preferred for the garment material selection.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000In this study, combinations of 3D printed flexible structures and different types of fabrics were used to create a garment collection. It was concluded that, with the right material selection, 3D printing can be used as an alternative method to create a new aesthetic language in fashion design.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-03-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49034870","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-01DOI: 10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0115
K. Seddik, Lamiaa Khamal El-Gabry, Marwa A Ali
Purpose This study aims to use hexanediol, pentaerythritol and keratin as crosslinking agents on the acrylic fabric used as garments. Design/methodology/approach Plain 1/1 acrylic fabric was produced with 14 and 11 weft yarn/cm using yarn count 28/2 Ne, then it was modified with different agents, and the effect of crosslinking on some of the inherent properties was determined. The color strength as well as washing fastness was evaluated. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy determined the changes that acted in the structure of the treated acrylic fabrics. Several physical and functional utility characteristics were studied such as stiffness, crease recovery, tensile strength and elongation, pilling, air permeability, absorbency and static electricity. Findings Polyacrylonitrile is one of the man-made materials used in the textile field; despite novel characteristics, it has some negative properties, especially in absorbency and pilling, which are improved after treatment. Originality/value The results presented that the different conditions that were used with cross-linkers enhanced the acrylic fabrics properties. Where analysis of variance test at P-value 0.05 and radar chart area offered that the treated acrylic fabric with 5% (w/v) keratin accomplished the highest preferable properties for end use.
{"title":"Improving some functional utility properties of garment using cross-linked acrylic fabrics","authors":"K. Seddik, Lamiaa Khamal El-Gabry, Marwa A Ali","doi":"10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0115","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0115","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to use hexanediol, pentaerythritol and keratin as crosslinking agents on the acrylic fabric used as garments.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Plain 1/1 acrylic fabric was produced with 14 and 11 weft yarn/cm using yarn count 28/2 Ne, then it was modified with different agents, and the effect of crosslinking on some of the inherent properties was determined. The color strength as well as washing fastness was evaluated. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy determined the changes that acted in the structure of the treated acrylic fabrics. Several physical and functional utility characteristics were studied such as stiffness, crease recovery, tensile strength and elongation, pilling, air permeability, absorbency and static electricity.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Polyacrylonitrile is one of the man-made materials used in the textile field; despite novel characteristics, it has some negative properties, especially in absorbency and pilling, which are improved after treatment.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The results presented that the different conditions that were used with cross-linkers enhanced the acrylic fabrics properties. Where analysis of variance test at P-value 0.05 and radar chart area offered that the treated acrylic fabric with 5% (w/v) keratin accomplished the highest preferable properties for end use.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43190518","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-02-08DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0095
M. Riabchykov, L. Nazarchuk, O. Tkachuk, V. Stytsyuk
Purpose This paper aims to prove the expediency and effectiveness of magnetic textiles use obtained by adding nanopowder synthesized on the basis of oxides of divalent and trivalent iron oxides, taking into account bacteriostatic, magnetotherapeutic and compressive properties. Design/methodology/approach The research includes methods of synthesis of nanoelements of bivalent and trivalent iron, methods of the theory of elasticity for determining the pressure between compression clothing and a limb, methods of creating an annular magnetic field with determination of its voltage, methods of determining the growth dynamics of mold bacteria and methods of approximation of experimental data. Findings On the base of the determination of the forces arising from the interaction of magnetic nanotextiles with a magnetic field, the expediency of using these materials in the creation of compression clothing has been proven. An additional medical value of magnetic textiles is the bacteriostatic effect. The content of magnetic nanoelements in the textile composition of 0.2% almost completely suppresses mold infections Research limitations/implications Cotton samples with the addition of nanocomponents based on ferric and ferric oxides were studied. Practical implications Magnetotextile materials can be used in magnetotherapy, compression clothing, in textile products that provide bacteriostatic properties. Originality/value The use of magnetic textile materials is a perspective direction for the creation of medical textile products with complex properties.
{"title":"Creation of smart compression garment using magnetic nanotextiles","authors":"M. Riabchykov, L. Nazarchuk, O. Tkachuk, V. Stytsyuk","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0095","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0095","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This paper aims to prove the expediency and effectiveness of magnetic textiles use obtained by adding nanopowder synthesized on the basis of oxides of divalent and trivalent iron oxides, taking into account bacteriostatic, magnetotherapeutic and compressive properties.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The research includes methods of synthesis of nanoelements of bivalent and trivalent iron, methods of the theory of elasticity for determining the pressure between compression clothing and a limb, methods of creating an annular magnetic field with determination of its voltage, methods of determining the growth dynamics of mold bacteria and methods of approximation of experimental data.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000On the base of the determination of the forces arising from the interaction of magnetic nanotextiles with a magnetic field, the expediency of using these materials in the creation of compression clothing has been proven. An additional medical value of magnetic textiles is the bacteriostatic effect. The content of magnetic nanoelements in the textile composition of 0.2% almost completely suppresses mold infections\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000Cotton samples with the addition of nanocomponents based on ferric and ferric oxides were studied.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000Magnetotextile materials can be used in magnetotherapy, compression clothing, in textile products that provide bacteriostatic properties.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The use of magnetic textile materials is a perspective direction for the creation of medical textile products with complex properties.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-02-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43336697","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-02-01DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0102
José Leão, Leydiana de Sousa Pereira, Maria Luiza Xavier De Holanda Cavalcanti
Purpose Textile manufacturers worldwide are reformulating their networks, often outsourcing them to maintain a competitive advantage and increase market share. From this perspective, the purpose of this study is support the partnership selection process to develop a sustainable chain that effectively meets customer needs. Brazil has the largest textile and apparel chain in the West and is distinguished by its completeness, from fiber production, spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and sewing to fashion shows. However, a firm’s relationship, especially in the production stage, is based on informal contracts, which result in a negative operational impact. Design/methodology/approach A methodological framework was developed based on a stable matching process to determine the optimal supplier network structure. This study presents a model application for the denim apparel chain in northeast Brazil. Findings In these environments, providing choices and recommending suppliers can be beneficial for effectively attending to demand requests, reducing production costs and improving quality through collaboration with sense relationships in a network. Thus, this study presents a better match from the negotiators’ perspective. Originality/value The findings of this research are of primary interest for guiding collaborative network composition in the textile and apparel chain. In particular, apparel domain companies can improve their effectiveness in decision-making by measuring the characteristics and potential of all companies involved in networks.
{"title":"Using an optimization model to support small sewing companies: a case study in a Brazilian textile cluster","authors":"José Leão, Leydiana de Sousa Pereira, Maria Luiza Xavier De Holanda Cavalcanti","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0102","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Textile manufacturers worldwide are reformulating their networks, often outsourcing them to maintain a competitive advantage and increase market share. From this perspective, the purpose of this study is support the partnership selection process to develop a sustainable chain that effectively meets customer needs. Brazil has the largest textile and apparel chain in the West and is distinguished by its completeness, from fiber production, spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and sewing to fashion shows. However, a firm’s relationship, especially in the production stage, is based on informal contracts, which result in a negative operational impact.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A methodological framework was developed based on a stable matching process to determine the optimal supplier network structure. This study presents a model application for the denim apparel chain in northeast Brazil.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000In these environments, providing choices and recommending suppliers can be beneficial for effectively attending to demand requests, reducing production costs and improving quality through collaboration with sense relationships in a network. Thus, this study presents a better match from the negotiators’ perspective.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The findings of this research are of primary interest for guiding collaborative network composition in the textile and apparel chain. In particular, apparel domain companies can improve their effectiveness in decision-making by measuring the characteristics and potential of all companies involved in networks.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44077235","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-25DOI: 10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0063
Sudev Dutta, P. Bansal
Purpose The purpose of this review paper is to outline the parachute materials and its behavior. To enhance parachute life, it is highly desirable to consider the commercial angle for any parachute manufacturing industry and its components under varying operational conditions. Hence, the knowledge of various textile materials and operational conditions which contributes the parachute strength and durability will be helpful for industries/researchers. Design/methodology/approach This section is not applicable for a review paper. Findings Parachute is a material used in numerous real-time applications such as man-drop, cargo delivery, aircraft recovery and aircraft decelerator which drastically reduces human efforts and time. However, each application requires a unique design and fabric selection to achieve the area of drag needed and the terminal velocity of the parachute material while in flight. For designing a man-drop parachute, the most critical parameters are weight and strength which must be considered during manufacturing. The army person uses the man-drop parachute, which must be as light as possible. Originality/value This paper is an original review work and will be helpful for parachute manufacturers/researchers to enhance the life of parachutes with improved functionality.
{"title":"Behavior of parachute under varying in-flight condition – a review","authors":"Sudev Dutta, P. Bansal","doi":"10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0063","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0063","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this review paper is to outline the parachute materials and its behavior. To enhance parachute life, it is highly desirable to consider the commercial angle for any parachute manufacturing industry and its components under varying operational conditions. Hence, the knowledge of various textile materials and operational conditions which contributes the parachute strength and durability will be helpful for industries/researchers.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This section is not applicable for a review paper.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Parachute is a material used in numerous real-time applications such as man-drop, cargo delivery, aircraft recovery and aircraft decelerator which drastically reduces human efforts and time. However, each application requires a unique design and fabric selection to achieve the area of drag needed and the terminal velocity of the parachute material while in flight. For designing a man-drop parachute, the most critical parameters are weight and strength which must be considered during manufacturing. The army person uses the man-drop parachute, which must be as light as possible.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This paper is an original review work and will be helpful for parachute manufacturers/researchers to enhance the life of parachutes with improved functionality.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46483742","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-24DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0098
R. Seidu, Shou-xiang Jiang, Benjamin Tawiah, R. Acquaye, E. K. Howard
Purpose The purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in 2019 has subsequently caused many problems, such as unemployment, business closures, economic instability and high volatility in the global capital markets amongst others within the wider manufacturing industry including textile production. Design/methodology/approach Relevant secondary data are obtained from the Scopus database and Statista. Based on the data analysis of 21 seed articles, three research themes are identified: challenges in the textile industry, new material innovations or solutions and the textile industry performance. Findings The results reveal that the COVID-19 pandemic has affected the textile industry, disrupted the supply chains of this industry, affected profit margins, stopped employment and impacted the retail of products to customers. Aside from the negative repercussions, there are also good sides to the pandemic which, for instance, range from advanced material innovations to textiles with anti-microbial, self-cleaning and anti-bacterial properties that would limit the transfer of the virus. Practical implications Findings reinforced the need for effective strategies and investments in the research and development departments of the various firms in the textile industry to innovate operations and novel materials for the next global pandemic. Originality/value Many companies have adopted novel strategies and practices that are helping them to survive the pandemic. This study, therefore, recommends further investigation into material innovations and reimagining strategies by companies and the supply chain within the textile industry so that it is protected against future crises.
{"title":"Review of effects of COVID-19 pandemic on the textile industry: challenges, material innovation and performance","authors":"R. Seidu, Shou-xiang Jiang, Benjamin Tawiah, R. Acquaye, E. K. Howard","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0098","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0098","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in 2019 has subsequently caused many problems, such as unemployment, business closures, economic instability and high volatility in the global capital markets amongst others within the wider manufacturing industry including textile production.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Relevant secondary data are obtained from the Scopus database and Statista. Based on the data analysis of 21 seed articles, three research themes are identified: challenges in the textile industry, new material innovations or solutions and the textile industry performance.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results reveal that the COVID-19 pandemic has affected the textile industry, disrupted the supply chains of this industry, affected profit margins, stopped employment and impacted the retail of products to customers. Aside from the negative repercussions, there are also good sides to the pandemic which, for instance, range from advanced material innovations to textiles with anti-microbial, self-cleaning and anti-bacterial properties that would limit the transfer of the virus.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000Findings reinforced the need for effective strategies and investments in the research and development departments of the various firms in the textile industry to innovate operations and novel materials for the next global pandemic.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Many companies have adopted novel strategies and practices that are helping them to survive the pandemic. This study, therefore, recommends further investigation into material innovations and reimagining strategies by companies and the supply chain within the textile industry so that it is protected against future crises.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43782437","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-19DOI: 10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0068
Haymanot Enawgaw
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to give compiled information on previously applied cotton fabric surface modifications. The paper covered most of the modifications done on cotton fabric to improve its properties or to add some functional properties. The paper presented mostly studied research works that brought a significant surface improvement on cotton fabric. Design/methodology/approach Different previous works on surface modifications of cotton fabrics such as pilling, wrinkle and microbial resistance, hydrophobicity, cationization, flame retardancy and UV-protection characteristics were studied and their methods of modification including the main findings are well reported in this paper. Findings Several modification treatments on surface modification of cotton fabrics indicated an improvement in the desired properties in which the modification is needed. For instance, the pilling tendency, wrinkling, microbial degradation and UV degradation drawbacks of cotton fabric can be overcome through different modification techniques. Originality/value To the best of the author’s knowledge, there are no compressive documents that covered all the portions presented in this review. The author tried to cover the surface modifications done to improve the main properties of cotton fabric.
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Pub Date : 2023-01-19DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0086
Abolfazl Zare
Purpose This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin finish. The reactivity on the surface of PET yarns was analyzed through Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry–attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) and dyeing with methylene blue as a reactive dye. Also, investigations were conducted on the effects of sericin, citrc acid (CA) (as a crosslinking agent), and sodium hypophosphite (as a catalyst) concentrations on some properties of false-twist textured PET yarns. Design/methodology/approach A false-twist texturing machine (Scragg-Shirley minibulk, England) was used with the draw ratio of 1.05, heating temperature of 120°C, texturing speed of 100 m min−1 and applied twist of 3,000 TPM. The aqueous extraction of sericin was carried out by the boiling of the raw silk in distilled water with L:R: 40:1 for 120 min. The aqueous solution was filtered with a filter paper to remove the impurities and insoluble fibroin. Finally, the sericin solution was freeze-dried to obtain the sericin powder. The sericin solution was applied on the drawn textured PET yarns using the “pad-dry-cure” method. Findings Sericin fixation onto the PET yarns was confirmed by FTIR-ATR. The results showed that there were no significant changes in the tensile strength, linear density, crimp contraction and crimp modulus, elongation at break and shrinkage. In contrast, a substantial increase was observed in moisture regain, vertical wicking, dye uptake and ultraviolet protection. There was also a reduction just in the electrical resistivity, in the presence of sericin. Originality/value Although sericin has been known to have numerous beneficial properties, its application in textile industry as a spin finish has not been reported yet.
目的从家蚕蚕茧中提取丝胶，并将丝胶粉应用于拉伸变形的聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯（PET）纱线上进行纺丝整理。通过傅立叶变换红外光谱-衰减全反射光谱（FTIR-ATR）和亚甲蓝作为活性染料染色，分析了PET纱线表面的反应性。此外，还研究了丝胶、柠檬酸（CA）（作为交联剂）和次磷酸钠（作为催化剂）浓度对假捻变形PET纱线某些性能的影响。设计/方法/方法使用假捻变形机（Scragg-Shirley minibulk，England），拉伸比为1.05，加热温度为120°C，变形速度为100 m min−1，施加3000 TPM的扭转。采用生丝在蒸馏水中以L∶R∶40∶1煮沸120分钟的方法，对丝胶进行了水提取 用滤纸过滤水溶液以去除杂质和不溶性丝素蛋白。最后，将丝胶溶液冷冻干燥，得到丝胶粉。采用“垫干固化”法将丝胶溶液应用于拉伸变形PET纱线上。FTIR-ATR证实了丝胶在PET纱线上的固定。结果表明，拉伸强度、线密度、卷曲收缩和卷曲模量、断裂伸长率和收缩率没有显著变化。相反，在回潮率、垂直芯吸、染料吸收和紫外线防护方面观察到显著增加。在丝胶存在的情况下，电阻率也有所降低。独创性/价值尽管丝胶具有许多有益的特性，但其在纺织工业中作为纺丝整理剂的应用尚未报道。
{"title":"Sericin eco-friendly biomaterial as a spin finish in drawn textured PET yarn production","authors":"Abolfazl Zare","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0086","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin finish. The reactivity on the surface of PET yarns was analyzed through Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry–attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) and dyeing with methylene blue as a reactive dye. Also, investigations were conducted on the effects of sericin, citrc acid (CA) (as a crosslinking agent), and sodium hypophosphite (as a catalyst) concentrations on some properties of false-twist textured PET yarns.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A false-twist texturing machine (Scragg-Shirley minibulk, England) was used with the draw ratio of 1.05, heating temperature of 120°C, texturing speed of 100 m min−1 and applied twist of 3,000 TPM. The aqueous extraction of sericin was carried out by the boiling of the raw silk in distilled water with L:R: 40:1 for 120 min. The aqueous solution was filtered with a filter paper to remove the impurities and insoluble fibroin. Finally, the sericin solution was freeze-dried to obtain the sericin powder. The sericin solution was applied on the drawn textured PET yarns using the “pad-dry-cure” method.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Sericin fixation onto the PET yarns was confirmed by FTIR-ATR. The results showed that there were no significant changes in the tensile strength, linear density, crimp contraction and crimp modulus, elongation at break and shrinkage. In contrast, a substantial increase was observed in moisture regain, vertical wicking, dye uptake and ultraviolet protection. There was also a reduction just in the electrical resistivity, in the presence of sericin.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Although sericin has been known to have numerous beneficial properties, its application in textile industry as a spin finish has not been reported yet.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-01-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41833691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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