Pub Date : 2022-03-08DOI: 10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0124
M. Rubel, S. R. Islam, Abeer Alassod, A. Farooq, Xiaolin Shen, T. Ahmed, M. Rashid, Afshan Zareen
Purpose The main purpose of this study was to prepare the cotton fibers and cellulose powder by a layer of nano-crystalline-titanium dioxide (TiO2) using the sol-gel sono-synthesis method to clean the wastewater containing reactive dye. Moreover, TiO2 nano-materials are remarkable due to their photoactive properties and valuable applications in wastewater treatment. Design/methodology/approach In this research, TiO2 was synthesized and deposited effectively on cotton fibers and cellulose powder using ultrasound-assisted coating. Further, tetra butyl titanate was used as a precursor to the synthesis of TiO2 nanoparticles. Reactive dye (red 195) was used in this study. X-ray Diffraction, scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy were performed to prove the aptitude for the formation of crystal TiO2 on the cotton fibers and cellulose powder along with TiO2 nanoparticles as well as to analyze the chemical structure. Decoloration of the wastewater was investigated through ultraviolet (UV-Visible) light at 30 min. Findings The experimental results revealed that the decolorization was completed at 2.0 min with the cellulose nano TiO2 treatment whereas cotton nano TiO2 treated solution contained reactive dyestuffs even after the treatment of 2 min. This was the fastest method up to now than all reported methods for sustainable decolorization of wastewater by absorption. Furthermore, this study explored that the cellulose TiO2 nano-composite was more effective than the cotton TiO2 nano-composite of decoloration wastewater for the eco-friendly remedy. Research limitations/implications Cotton fibers and cellulose powder with nano-TiO2, and only reactive dye (red 195) were tested. Practical implications With reactive dye-containing wastewater, it seems to be easier to get rid of the dye than to retain it, especially from dyeing of yarn, fabric, apparel, and as well as other sectors where dyestuffs are used. Social implications This research would help to reduce pollution in the environment as well as save energy and cost. Originality/value Decoloration of wastewater treatment is an essential new track with nano-crystalline TiO2 to fast and efficient cleaning of reactive dyes containing wastewater used as a raw material.
{"title":"Comparison between cotton fiber and cellulose powder for wastewater treatment efficiency with nano-crystalline TiO2 by sono-synthesis","authors":"M. Rubel, S. R. Islam, Abeer Alassod, A. Farooq, Xiaolin Shen, T. Ahmed, M. Rashid, Afshan Zareen","doi":"10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0124","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0124","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The main purpose of this study was to prepare the cotton fibers and cellulose powder by a layer of nano-crystalline-titanium dioxide (TiO2) using the sol-gel sono-synthesis method to clean the wastewater containing reactive dye. Moreover, TiO2 nano-materials are remarkable due to their photoactive properties and valuable applications in wastewater treatment.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000In this research, TiO2 was synthesized and deposited effectively on cotton fibers and cellulose powder using ultrasound-assisted coating. Further, tetra butyl titanate was used as a precursor to the synthesis of TiO2 nanoparticles. Reactive dye (red 195) was used in this study. X-ray Diffraction, scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy were performed to prove the aptitude for the formation of crystal TiO2 on the cotton fibers and cellulose powder along with TiO2 nanoparticles as well as to analyze the chemical structure. Decoloration of the wastewater was investigated through ultraviolet (UV-Visible) light at 30 min.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The experimental results revealed that the decolorization was completed at 2.0 min with the cellulose nano TiO2 treatment whereas cotton nano TiO2 treated solution contained reactive dyestuffs even after the treatment of 2 min. This was the fastest method up to now than all reported methods for sustainable decolorization of wastewater by absorption. Furthermore, this study explored that the cellulose TiO2 nano-composite was more effective than the cotton TiO2 nano-composite of decoloration wastewater for the eco-friendly remedy.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000Cotton fibers and cellulose powder with nano-TiO2, and only reactive dye (red 195) were tested.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000With reactive dye-containing wastewater, it seems to be easier to get rid of the dye than to retain it, especially from dyeing of yarn, fabric, apparel, and as well as other sectors where dyestuffs are used.\u0000\u0000\u0000Social implications\u0000This research would help to reduce pollution in the environment as well as save energy and cost.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Decoloration of wastewater treatment is an essential new track with nano-crystalline TiO2 to fast and efficient cleaning of reactive dyes containing wastewater used as a raw material.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"7 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-03-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"62251686","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-03-07DOI: 10.1108/rjta-05-2021-0074
Geetha Margret Soundri, K. S., S. Kumar B.
Purpose The essential properties of active sports fabrics are moisture management, quick-drying, body heat management and thermal regulations. Fibre type, blending nature, yarn and fabric structure and the finishing treatment are the key parameters that influenced the performance of the clothing meant for sportswear. This study aims to investigate the effect of fibre blending and structural tightness factors on bi-layer sport fabric's dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties. Design/methodology/approach In this study, 12 different bi-layer inter-lock fabrics were produced. Polyester filament (120 Denier) yarn was fed to form the backside of the fabric, and the face side was varied with cotton, modal, wool and soya spun yarns of 30sNe. Three different types of structural tightness factors were considered, such as low, medium and high were taken for sample development. The assessment towards dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties was carried out on all the samples. Findings The polyester-modal blend with a high tightness factor has shown maximum overall moisture management capability (OMMC) values of 0.73 and air permeability of 205.3 cm3/cm2/s. The same sample has shown comparatively higher thermal conductivity of 61.72 × 10–3 W m-1 °C-1(Under compression state) and 58.45 × 10–3 W m-1 °C-1 (under recovery state). In the case of surface roughness is concerned, polyester-modal blends have shown the lowest surface roughness, surface roughness amplitude and surface friction co-efficient. Among the selected fibre combinations, the overall comfort level of polyester-modal bi-layer knitted structure with a higher tightness factor is appreciable. Polyester-modal is more suitable for active sportswear among the four fiber blend combinations. Research limitations/implications The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of fibre blends, structural tightness factor and other process specifications for the development of bi-layer fabric for active sportswear applications. The dynamic functional testing methods (Moisture management and Thermal properties) were carried out to simulate the actual wearing environment of the sports clothing. This study will create a new scope of research opportunities in the field of bi-layer sports textiles. Originality/value This study was conducted to explore the influence of fibre blend and structural tightness factor on the comfort level of sportswear and to find the suitable fibre blend for active sportswear clothing.
目的活性运动织物的基本性能是吸湿性、快干性、热管理性和热调节性。纤维类型、混纺性质、纱线和织物结构及整理处理是影响运动服装性能的关键参数。本研究旨在探讨纤维混纺和结构紧密性因素对双层运动织物尺寸、湿度管理和热性能的影响。设计/方法/方法在这项研究中，生产了12种不同的双层互锁织物。织物背面为涤纶长丝(120旦)纱，正面为30sNe棉、莫代尔、羊毛、黄豆纱。考虑了低、中、高三种不同类型的结构紧密度因素，进行了样品开发。对所有样品进行了尺寸、湿度管理和热性能评估。结果:具有高密性系数的聚酯模态共混物的最大总体湿度管理能力(OMMC)值为0.73，透气性为205.3 cm3/cm2/s。同一样品在压缩状态下的导热系数为61.72 × 10-3 W m-1°C-1，在恢复状态下的导热系数为58.45 × 10-3 W m-1°C-1。在表面粗糙度方面，聚酯模态共混物具有最低的表面粗糙度、表面粗糙度振幅和表面摩擦系数。在所选择的纤维组合中，紧度系数较高的聚酯模态双层针织结构整体舒适性较好。在四种纤维混纺组合中，涤纶-莫代尔更适合运动运动服。本研究的结果将有助于更好地了解纤维混纺、结构紧密系数和其他工艺规范，以开发用于运动服装应用的双层织物。采用动态功能测试方法(湿度管理和热性能)模拟运动服装的实际穿着环境。本研究将在双层运动纺织品领域创造新的研究机会。原创性/价值本研究旨在探讨纤维混纺及结构紧度因子对运动服装舒适度的影响，寻找适合运动服装的纤维混纺。
{"title":"Dimensional, moisture, and thermal properties of bi-layered knitted fabric for sportswear application","authors":"Geetha Margret Soundri, K. S., S. Kumar B.","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2021-0074","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2021-0074","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The essential properties of active sports fabrics are moisture management, quick-drying, body heat management and thermal regulations. Fibre type, blending nature, yarn and fabric structure and the finishing treatment are the key parameters that influenced the performance of the clothing meant for sportswear. This study aims to investigate the effect of fibre blending and structural tightness factors on bi-layer sport fabric's dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000In this study, 12 different bi-layer inter-lock fabrics were produced. Polyester filament (120 Denier) yarn was fed to form the backside of the fabric, and the face side was varied with cotton, modal, wool and soya spun yarns of 30sNe. Three different types of structural tightness factors were considered, such as low, medium and high were taken for sample development. The assessment towards dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties was carried out on all the samples.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The polyester-modal blend with a high tightness factor has shown maximum overall moisture management capability (OMMC) values of 0.73 and air permeability of 205.3 cm3/cm2/s. The same sample has shown comparatively higher thermal conductivity of 61.72 × 10–3 W m-1 °C-1(Under compression state) and 58.45 × 10–3 W m-1 °C-1 (under recovery state). In the case of surface roughness is concerned, polyester-modal blends have shown the lowest surface roughness, surface roughness amplitude and surface friction co-efficient. Among the selected fibre combinations, the overall comfort level of polyester-modal bi-layer knitted structure with a higher tightness factor is appreciable. Polyester-modal is more suitable for active sportswear among the four fiber blend combinations.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of fibre blends, structural tightness factor and other process specifications for the development of bi-layer fabric for active sportswear applications. The dynamic functional testing methods (Moisture management and Thermal properties) were carried out to simulate the actual wearing environment of the sports clothing. This study will create a new scope of research opportunities in the field of bi-layer sports textiles.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study was conducted to explore the influence of fibre blend and structural tightness factor on the comfort level of sportswear and to find the suitable fibre blend for active sportswear clothing.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-03-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45303800","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-25DOI: 10.1108/rjta-11-2021-0141
Md. Sobuj, Mohammad Asharaful Alam, Akhiri Zannat
Purpose The purpose of this study was to find the key face mask features using Kano model in combination with a hierarchical cluster analysis based on customer satisfaction (CS) and preference. Design/methodology/approach This study used 171 responses collected from a self-administrated online survey with convenience sampling where respondents were asked about 16 different features of face masks. Findings The study revealed that, among 6 Kano categories, 15 features were categorized as “one dimensional” and only the high price fell under the “reverse” category but all features were not equally weighted by customers. The result also showed viral protection and comfortability were the most desired features by customers regardless of its price and the “color matching” feature can act both as “one dimension” and as “attractive” feature. Research limitations/implications This study will help face mask producers to drive their resources towards those features which customers value more by showing how to prioritize features even if they fall under the same category. Originality/value This study used customer satisfaction and dissatisfaction index along with an unsupervised machine learning tool to improve features classification based on Kano model. The findings of this study can be used to formulate future research studies.
{"title":"Evaluation of face masks quality features using Kano model and unsupervised machine learning technique","authors":"Md. Sobuj, Mohammad Asharaful Alam, Akhiri Zannat","doi":"10.1108/rjta-11-2021-0141","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-11-2021-0141","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this study was to find the key face mask features using Kano model in combination with a hierarchical cluster analysis based on customer satisfaction (CS) and preference.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This study used 171 responses collected from a self-administrated online survey with convenience sampling where respondents were asked about 16 different features of face masks.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The study revealed that, among 6 Kano categories, 15 features were categorized as “one dimensional” and only the high price fell under the “reverse” category but all features were not equally weighted by customers. The result also showed viral protection and comfortability were the most desired features by customers regardless of its price and the “color matching” feature can act both as “one dimension” and as “attractive” feature.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000This study will help face mask producers to drive their resources towards those features which customers value more by showing how to prioritize features even if they fall under the same category.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study used customer satisfaction and dissatisfaction index along with an unsupervised machine learning tool to improve features classification based on Kano model. The findings of this study can be used to formulate future research studies.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47367331","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-22DOI: 10.1108/rjta-07-2021-0094
Deepasri Prabhakar, Sudhakar Rajagopal
Purpose The concept of developing clothing sizes has taken importance in recent years due to increasing expectations of consumers for branded clothing and its value in terms of fit and durability. The kids’ ready-to-wear brands are expected to pose the least fit issues, thereby covering a wider population of a particular size. This necessitates the standardization of measurements. The lack of standardized approaches has caused fit issues like mismatching of sizes and alterations, in a heterogenous consumer market, like India. The performance of branded apparel depends on the quality of the measurements considered in developing sizes and the approach for standardization. There is a lacuna in the measurements used by the kids’ apparel domestic brands. This study aims to propose an anthropometric approach for deriving quality measurements that can be used effectively in developing kids’ sizes to fit a wider population of kids, thereby reducing the need for alterations. Design/methodology/approach The measurement data was gathered through the quantitative method. An anthropometric survey was conducted by measuring school kids. A total of 544 kids (girls and boys) of age group 6–8 years were measured to obtain prime anthropometric measurements required for ready-to-wear apparel production. WHO manual and ISO 8559, 1998 meant for anthropometry survey for garment industry was referred for accurate measuring following the landmarks for measuring. Findings The findings revealed differences in the anthropometric measurements based on gender and age. The anthropometric measurements showed variations within the same body mass index (BMI) range. S, M and L sizes were identified within an age group. The apparel manufacturers and designers need to focus on the discrepancies occurring in the body measurements of an age group to address and control fit issues in kids ready to wear apparel. Practical implications The anthropometric approach can be significantly used to control undesired fit and comfort issues in kids’ ready-to-wear apparel. Originality/value This study helped to understand the importance of scientific measuring practices to arrive at standardized measurements to develop sizes in ready-to-wear apparel manufacturing.
{"title":"Conceptualization of body measurements for 6-8 years kids ready-to-wear apparel based on anthropometric study in Bangalore, India","authors":"Deepasri Prabhakar, Sudhakar Rajagopal","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2021-0094","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2021-0094","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The concept of developing clothing sizes has taken importance in recent years due to increasing expectations of consumers for branded clothing and its value in terms of fit and durability. The kids’ ready-to-wear brands are expected to pose the least fit issues, thereby covering a wider population of a particular size. This necessitates the standardization of measurements. The lack of standardized approaches has caused fit issues like mismatching of sizes and alterations, in a heterogenous consumer market, like India. The performance of branded apparel depends on the quality of the measurements considered in developing sizes and the approach for standardization. There is a lacuna in the measurements used by the kids’ apparel domestic brands. This study aims to propose an anthropometric approach for deriving quality measurements that can be used effectively in developing kids’ sizes to fit a wider population of kids, thereby reducing the need for alterations.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The measurement data was gathered through the quantitative method. An anthropometric survey was conducted by measuring school kids. A total of 544 kids (girls and boys) of age group 6–8 years were measured to obtain prime anthropometric measurements required for ready-to-wear apparel production. WHO manual and ISO 8559, 1998 meant for anthropometry survey for garment industry was referred for accurate measuring following the landmarks for measuring.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The findings revealed differences in the anthropometric measurements based on gender and age. The anthropometric measurements showed variations within the same body mass index (BMI) range. S, M and L sizes were identified within an age group. The apparel manufacturers and designers need to focus on the discrepancies occurring in the body measurements of an age group to address and control fit issues in kids ready to wear apparel.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The anthropometric approach can be significantly used to control undesired fit and comfort issues in kids’ ready-to-wear apparel.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study helped to understand the importance of scientific measuring practices to arrive at standardized measurements to develop sizes in ready-to-wear apparel manufacturing.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47902818","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-22DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0107
K. A. Beyene
Purpose Modeling helps to determine how structural parameters of fabric affect the surface of a fabric and also identify the way they influence fabric properties. Moreover, it helps to estimate and evaluate without the complexity and time-consuming experimental procedures. The purpose of this study is to develop and select the best regression model equations for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach In this study, a linear and quadratic regression model was developed for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics, and the capability in accuracy and reliability of the two-model equation was determined by the root mean square error (RMSE). The Design-Expert AE11 software was used for developing the two model equations and analysis of variance “ANOVA.” The count and density were used for developing linear model equation one “SMD1” as well as for quadratic model equation two “SMD2.” Findings From results and findings, the effects of count and density and their interactions on the roughness of plain-woven fabric were found statistically significant for both linear and quadratic models at a confidence interval of 95%. The count has a positive correlation with surface roughness, while density has a negative correlation. The correlations revealed that models were strongly correlated at a confidence interval of 95% with adjusted R² of 0.8483 and R² of 0.9079, respectively. The RMSE values of the quadratic model equation and linear model equation were 0.1596 and 0.0747, respectively. Originality/value Thus, the quadratic model equation has better capability accuracy and reliability in predictions and evaluations of surface roughness than a linear model. These models can be used to select a suitable fabric for various end applications, and it was also used for tests and predicts surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics. The regression model helps to reduce the gap between the subjective and objective surface roughness measurement methods.
{"title":"Comparative study of linear and quadratic model equations for prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of a plain-woven fabric","authors":"K. A. Beyene","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0107","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0107","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Modeling helps to determine how structural parameters of fabric affect the surface of a fabric and also identify the way they influence fabric properties. Moreover, it helps to estimate and evaluate without the complexity and time-consuming experimental procedures. The purpose of this study is to develop and select the best regression model equations for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000In this study, a linear and quadratic regression model was developed for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics, and the capability in accuracy and reliability of the two-model equation was determined by the root mean square error (RMSE). The Design-Expert AE11 software was used for developing the two model equations and analysis of variance “ANOVA.” The count and density were used for developing linear model equation one “SMD1” as well as for quadratic model equation two “SMD2.”\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000From results and findings, the effects of count and density and their interactions on the roughness of plain-woven fabric were found statistically significant for both linear and quadratic models at a confidence interval of 95%. The count has a positive correlation with surface roughness, while density has a negative correlation. The correlations revealed that models were strongly correlated at a confidence interval of 95% with adjusted R² of 0.8483 and R² of 0.9079, respectively. The RMSE values of the quadratic model equation and linear model equation were 0.1596 and 0.0747, respectively.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Thus, the quadratic model equation has better capability accuracy and reliability in predictions and evaluations of surface roughness than a linear model. These models can be used to select a suitable fabric for various end applications, and it was also used for tests and predicts surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics. The regression model helps to reduce the gap between the subjective and objective surface roughness measurement methods.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44844723","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-18DOI: 10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0120
Muhammad Umar Nazir, M. U. Javaid, K. Shaker, Yasir Nawab, T. Hussain, M. Umair
Purpose This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials. Design/methodology/approach Six bilayer woven fabrics were produced on Dobby loom with 3/1 twill weave using micro-polyester yarn. Three different picking sequences, i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI), were used in both face and back layers. The effect of picking sequence on air permeability (AP), volume porosity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) of the samples were analyzed. Findings The results showed that 3PI–3PI picking sequence gives the highest OMMC, AP and thermal resistance in bilayer woven fabrics and the least results exhibited by SPI–SPI picking sequence. Research limitations/implications This research uses a bilayer woven system that develops channels and trapes the air causing higher thermal resistance; therefore, applicable for winter sports clothing rather than for summer wear. Developed bilayer woven fabrics can be used in winter sportswear to improve the comfort of the wearer and reduce fatigue during activity. Originality/value Authors have developed bilayer fabrics by changing the picking sequences, i.e. SPI, DPI and 3PI of weft yarns in both layers and compared their thermo-physiological comfort properties.
{"title":"Effect of picking sequence on thermo-physiological comfort of bilayer woven fabrics","authors":"Muhammad Umar Nazir, M. U. Javaid, K. Shaker, Yasir Nawab, T. Hussain, M. Umair","doi":"10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0120","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0120","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Six bilayer woven fabrics were produced on Dobby loom with 3/1 twill weave using micro-polyester yarn. Three different picking sequences, i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI), were used in both face and back layers. The effect of picking sequence on air permeability (AP), volume porosity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) of the samples were analyzed.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results showed that 3PI–3PI picking sequence gives the highest OMMC, AP and thermal resistance in bilayer woven fabrics and the least results exhibited by SPI–SPI picking sequence.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000This research uses a bilayer woven system that develops channels and trapes the air causing higher thermal resistance; therefore, applicable for winter sports clothing rather than for summer wear. Developed bilayer woven fabrics can be used in winter sportswear to improve the comfort of the wearer and reduce fatigue during activity.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Authors have developed bilayer fabrics by changing the picking sequences, i.e. SPI, DPI and 3PI of weft yarns in both layers and compared their thermo-physiological comfort properties.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41345219","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-17DOI: 10.1108/rjta-11-2021-0130
Aakanksha Singh, J. Chakraborty
Purpose This study aims at evaluating the properties of cotton fabric after nanofinishing using zinc oxide and silicon dioxide nanoparticles along with dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU). Design/methodology/approach DMDHEU recipes was optimized by Box-Behnken Design before using it with nanoparticles. These nanoparticles were synthesized by sol gel technique and applied to the fabric by pad-dry-cure method. The treated samples were evaluated for functional properties such as self-cleaning, antibacterial and ultraviolet (UV) protection properties. Findings Due to the use of DMDHEU, crease recovery property was obtained. The results showed good antibacterial property against S-aureus (gram positive) bacteria and E-coli (gram negative). UV protection property of combined nano-finished samples showed good results, as they showed very low transmission of UV-irradiation when exposed to UV-rays compared to single nanoparticle finished samples. Self-cleaning property of finished cotton was found to be good even after five washing cycles. Originality/value In this study, nanofinishing of cotton fabric with zinc oxide and silicon dioxide nanoparticles along with DMDHEU was studied to achieve promising functional properties with long durability of nanofinishing not studied earlier.
{"title":"Multifunctional finishing of cotton using zinc oxide and silicon dioxide nanoparticles along with DMDHEU","authors":"Aakanksha Singh, J. Chakraborty","doi":"10.1108/rjta-11-2021-0130","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-11-2021-0130","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims at evaluating the properties of cotton fabric after nanofinishing using zinc oxide and silicon dioxide nanoparticles along with dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU).\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000DMDHEU recipes was optimized by Box-Behnken Design before using it with nanoparticles. These nanoparticles were synthesized by sol gel technique and applied to the fabric by pad-dry-cure method. The treated samples were evaluated for functional properties such as self-cleaning, antibacterial and ultraviolet (UV) protection properties.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Due to the use of DMDHEU, crease recovery property was obtained. The results showed good antibacterial property against S-aureus (gram positive) bacteria and E-coli (gram negative). UV protection property of combined nano-finished samples showed good results, as they showed very low transmission of UV-irradiation when exposed to UV-rays compared to single nanoparticle finished samples. Self-cleaning property of finished cotton was found to be good even after five washing cycles.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000In this study, nanofinishing of cotton fabric with zinc oxide and silicon dioxide nanoparticles along with DMDHEU was studied to achieve promising functional properties with long durability of nanofinishing not studied earlier.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48321691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-17DOI: 10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0123
M. Umair, M. U. Javaid, Yasir Nawab, M. Jabbar, S. Riaz, H. Abid, K. Shaker
Purpose This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester. Findings The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials. Research limitations/implications Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved. Originality/value The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.
{"title":"Thermal properties of woven fabric as a function of its structural parameters: experimentation and modeling","authors":"M. Umair, M. U. Javaid, Yasir Nawab, M. Jabbar, S. Riaz, H. Abid, K. Shaker","doi":"10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0123","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-10-2021-0123","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46164661","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-09DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0099
G. Perera, A. Ranaweera
Purpose Localism refers to a concept that encourages local production, consumption and promotion of goods. It is a movement to encourage consumers and businesses to purchase from locally owned, independent businesses that has grown rapidly in the past decade. However, localism remains understudied by researchers. This study aims to provide a more comprehensive understanding of the localism movement by capturing the dynamism of fashion localism in the context of the Sri Lankan fashion retail sector. Design/methodology/approach Adopting a qualitative exploratory approach, the authors conducted a series of in-depth interviews with 12 fashion practitioners. Findings Based on the findings, the authors propose a conceptual model of fashion localism consisting of eight themes: fashion localism design approach, locally sourced staples, land ethic, employee development, community development, consumer, regulations and limitations and future opportunities. Originality/value This research sheds some light on localism literature by capturing the dynamism of fashion localism. In particular, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, this research is the first study in marketing to propose a conceptual model of fashion localism. This research further points out certain managerial implications by illustrating a few practical approaches to the concept of localism within the Sri Lankan fashion retail sector.
{"title":"Fashion localism: evaluation and extensions of utility in Sri Lankan fashion brands","authors":"G. Perera, A. Ranaweera","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0099","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0099","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Localism refers to a concept that encourages local production, consumption and promotion of goods. It is a movement to encourage consumers and businesses to purchase from locally owned, independent businesses that has grown rapidly in the past decade. However, localism remains understudied by researchers. This study aims to provide a more comprehensive understanding of the localism movement by capturing the dynamism of fashion localism in the context of the Sri Lankan fashion retail sector.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Adopting a qualitative exploratory approach, the authors conducted a series of in-depth interviews with 12 fashion practitioners.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000Based on the findings, the authors propose a conceptual model of fashion localism consisting of eight themes: fashion localism design approach, locally sourced staples, land ethic, employee development, community development, consumer, regulations and limitations and future opportunities.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This research sheds some light on localism literature by capturing the dynamism of fashion localism. In particular, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, this research is the first study in marketing to propose a conceptual model of fashion localism. This research further points out certain managerial implications by illustrating a few practical approaches to the concept of localism within the Sri Lankan fashion retail sector.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-02-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47918645","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-26DOI: 10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0102
Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Bizuayehu Mamo
Purpose The purpose of this study is to explore fit problems, satisfaction and preferences of Ethiopian male consumers of ready-made garments (shirt, polo shirt, sweater and khaki and jeans trousers) and highlight the need for a domestic standard garment size chart. Design/methodology/approach Using a structured questionnaire, 405 usable responses were collected from consumers in four cities (Bahir Dar, Kombolcha, Dessie and Addis Ababa) based on convenience sampling. Moreover, the pattern-making methods of 12 domestic garment manufacturing companies were investigated. One-way analysis of variance and multivariate analysis of variance were used to examine differences in fit satisfaction with age, body size and shape. Multiple regression was used to test hypotheses. Findings The participants were mostly neither satisfied nor dissatisfied with the fit of the garments irrespective of their age, body size and shape. While age was found to be insignificant, apparel sizes worn and body shape were found to be significant predictors of fit type in most garments. It was also found that most of the domestic garment manufacturing companies use the knock-off method for pattern making, which results in a bad fit as the basic garment for the knock-off is constructed based on other countries’ standards. Originality/value This study investigates the fit problems and preferences of ready-made garments in the context of consumers in a developing country. Moreover, it has a contribution in considering men’s body shape in the analysis of fit preferences. The results have implications for developing domestic standard garment size charts to improve fit satisfaction.
{"title":"Analysis of garment fit satisfaction and fit preferences of Ethiopian male consumers","authors":"Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Bizuayehu Mamo","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2021-0102","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The purpose of this study is to explore fit problems, satisfaction and preferences of Ethiopian male consumers of ready-made garments (shirt, polo shirt, sweater and khaki and jeans trousers) and highlight the need for a domestic standard garment size chart.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Using a structured questionnaire, 405 usable responses were collected from consumers in four cities (Bahir Dar, Kombolcha, Dessie and Addis Ababa) based on convenience sampling. Moreover, the pattern-making methods of 12 domestic garment manufacturing companies were investigated. One-way analysis of variance and multivariate analysis of variance were used to examine differences in fit satisfaction with age, body size and shape. Multiple regression was used to test hypotheses.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The participants were mostly neither satisfied nor dissatisfied with the fit of the garments irrespective of their age, body size and shape. While age was found to be insignificant, apparel sizes worn and body shape were found to be significant predictors of fit type in most garments. It was also found that most of the domestic garment manufacturing companies use the knock-off method for pattern making, which results in a bad fit as the basic garment for the knock-off is constructed based on other countries’ standards.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000This study investigates the fit problems and preferences of ready-made garments in the context of consumers in a developing country. Moreover, it has a contribution in considering men’s body shape in the analysis of fit preferences. The results have implications for developing domestic standard garment size charts to improve fit satisfaction.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2022-01-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43932138","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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