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A NEW TEST METHOD TO MEASURE THE COMPRESSIBILITY OF SPACER FABRICS 一种测量间隔织物压缩性的新方法
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.30
M. Kilic, G. Kilic, M. Demir, G. Çelik, Izzet Onal Bugduz, C. Bulut
Spacer fabric is a three-dimensional structure that obtained by the connection of two parallel fabric surfaces with the connection threads. Spacer fabrics are widely used for their several functional advantages that they provide unlike conventional fabrics. Compressibility is one of the important functional parameters for these fabric structures. The compressibility values of the spacer fabrics are measured based on the ISO 3386-1 standard. However, this standard is used for structures that have non-axial shear during compression such as foam, sponge and so on. It is thought that this standard is not suitable for spacer fabric structures due to the shear deformation which occurs during the measurement of compressibility. For this purpose, as in accordance with spacer fabrics end-use area, a new test system been proposed to measure of compressibility that prevents shear during the test. Thus, it is aimed to prevent the shear deformation and the deviant results obtained during the test. Within the scope of the study, the compressibility properties of spacer fabric structures, which have undergone different thicknesses and different finishing processes, were measured according to both ISO 3386-1 and the new proposed test method. When the results were compared, it was observed that the results obtained in the new proposed test setup were higher and the difference between the measured results according to both test methods was statistically significant for α = 0.05.
间隔织物是由两个平行织物表面用连接螺纹连接而成的三维结构。间隔织物因其与传统织物不同的几种功能优势而被广泛使用。可压缩性是这些织物结构的重要功能参数之一。间隔织物的可压缩性值是根据ISO 3386-1标准测量的。但本标准适用于泡沫、海绵等在压缩过程中发生非轴向剪切的结构。由于在压缩性测量过程中会发生剪切变形,因此认为本标准不适用于间隔织物结构。为此,根据垫片织物的最终使用领域,提出了一种新的测试系统来测量在测试过程中防止剪切的可压缩性。因此,旨在防止剪切变形和试验过程中得到的偏差结果。在研究范围内,根据ISO 3386-1和新提出的测试方法,测量了经过不同厚度和不同整理工艺的间隔织物结构的压缩性能。结果比较发现,采用新方法测得的结果更高,两种方法测得的结果差异有统计学意义(α = 0.05)。
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引用次数: 0
AN INVESTIGATION ON SURFACE RESISTIVITY OF POLYPROPYLENEFABRICS MODIFIEDWITHIONICLIQUIDS 离子液体改性聚丙烯织物表面电阻率的研究
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.15
Y. Seki, Aylin Altınışık Tağaç
In this study, polypropylene fabric was modified with two types of ionic liquids such as 1- ethyl-2,3-dimethylimidazolium ethyl sulfate (EIL) (2, 6, 10 %w/v in ethanol) and methyl-trin-butylammonium methyl sulfate (10, 15, 20 %w/v in ethanol)at different concentrations. Before modification, the fabrics were pre- treated with chromic acid to activate the surface. The effect of the modifications was investigated by thermogravimetric analysis, surface resistivity measurements and scanning electron microscopy. The pre- treatment changed surface resistivity from 1010 to 1013 ohm/sq. The modifications with the ionic liquids decreased surface resistivity of the PP fabrics short and long-term periods in the range of 106 - 108 ohm/sq. Increasing the concentration of the ionic liquids can be considered as an efficient way to reduce the surface resistivity of PP. Thermal stability of the PP altered after modification. It was observed that a coating layer formed on surface of the fabric and in the gaps of the yarns of P P with modification. This environmentally- friendly method can be used as an alternative way for improving conductivity of PP fabrics generally characterized by their high surface resistivity.
以1-乙基-2,3-二甲基咪唑硫酸乙酯(EIL) (2,6,10 %w/v在乙醇中)和甲基三丁基硫酸甲铵(10,15,20 %w/v在乙醇中)两种不同浓度的离子液体对聚丙烯织物进行改性。改性前,用铬酸对织物进行预处理,使其表面活化。通过热重分析、表面电阻率测量和扫描电镜研究了改性的效果。预处理使表面电阻率从1010欧姆/平方提高到1013欧姆/平方。离子液体的改性使PP织物的表面电阻率在106 ~ 108欧姆/平方范围内短期和长期降低。提高离子液体的浓度是降低PP表面电阻率的有效途径,改性后的PP热稳定性发生改变。结果表明,经改性的聚丙烯织物表面和纱线间隙形成了一层涂层。这种环保的方法可以作为提高表面电阻率高的PP织物电导率的一种替代方法。
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引用次数: 0
PRELIMINARY CHARACTERIZATION OF A CONTEMPORARYTEXTILE ART PIECE 一件当代纺织艺术品的初步特征
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.46
E. Mitran, I. Sandulache, L. Secăreanu, O. Iordache, E. Perdum, Maria Memecică
The present article aims to make a preliminary analyze regarding the fibrous composition of an "opreg"(part of a female folk costume composed of a richly decorated piece of fabric and long fringes applied on the lower edge) from the modern-contemporary period, using two micro-destructive methods: Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and optical microscopy. In order to have a better understanding and a precise result, different fibres from the opreg were analyzed- brightly colored cotton yarn (green, pink, lilac) together with synthetic silver and gold composite yarns (lurex). Hand-made textiles have a very important meaning for our history, therefore it is imperious to know what kind of fibres were used in order to be able to create an adequate environment to preserve them. Further analyzes will be carried out in order to have a more detailed image about opreg characteristics and how it was obtained.
本文运用扫描电子显微镜(SEM)和光学显微镜两种微破坏方法,对现当代一件“opreg”(由一块装饰丰富的织物和下缘应用的长流苏组成的女性民间服装的一部分)的纤维成分进行初步分析。为了更好地理解和得到精确的结果,我们分析了来自opregg的不同纤维——色彩鲜艳的棉纱(绿色、粉色、淡紫色)以及合成银和金复合纱线(lurex)。手工制作的纺织品对我们的历史有着非常重要的意义,因此,为了能够创造一个适当的环境来保存它们,了解使用了哪种纤维是非常重要的。将进行进一步的分析,以获得关于opreg特征的更详细的图像以及如何获得它。
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引用次数: 0
SKILL NEEDS AND GAPS IN QUALIFICATIONS FRAMEWORKS IN THE ROMANIAN CLOTHING INDUSTRY 罗马尼亚服装行业资格框架中的技能需求和差距
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.34
Alexandra Cardoso, S. Olaru, P. C. Ghituleasa, Mihaela Dascalu, Sabina Socol
Starting from the current analysis of the garments industry's critical points, namely the skills deficiency with competencies in this field and its related occupations, the mapping qualification needs and WBL good practices for the Romanian clothing sector was performed. The activities implemented in Romania were desk-based research of existing education and training programs and field-based research through surveys and focus groups, in close cooperation with Romanian T&C companies and VET representatives. The results were attained based on a cooperation structure between partners (T&C associations, Technological Centres, VET providers) and relevant stakeholders (T&C companies, VET providers and qualification experts). Through the analysis of the questionnaires filled by the companies and VET providers, the most important technical competences for the clothing technician were identified. The new profile qualification will be more cross-cutting, more attractive and also with a high employment potential in the various kind of companies. This new profile meets the identified needs, the information provided is harmonized with the level of European competences for which school curricula or other national training programmes are not delivered any longer.
从目前对服装工业的关键问题,即在这一领域及其相关职业的能力方面的技能不足的分析开始,对罗马尼亚服装部门的资格需求和世界劳工组织的良好做法进行了绘图。在罗马尼亚实施的活动是对现有教育和培训方案进行桌面研究,并通过调查和焦点小组进行实地研究,与罗马尼亚T&C公司和VET代表密切合作。这些成果是基于合作伙伴(T&C协会、技术中心、VET提供商)和相关利益相关者(T&C公司、VET提供商和资格认证专家)之间的合作结构而获得的。通过对公司和职业技术培训机构填写的问卷分析,确定服装技师最重要的技术能力。新的档案资格将更具交叉性,更具吸引力,并且在各种公司中具有很高的就业潜力。这一新的概况满足了已查明的需要,所提供的资料与不再提供学校课程或其他国家培训方案的欧洲能力水平相协调。
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引用次数: 0
A MODIFIEDTWIST-SPINNING TECHNOLOGY:THREE-ROVINGYARN SPINNING 一种改进的捻纱工艺:三粗纱纺纱
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.18
M. Demir, M. Kilic
Ring spinning is one of the oldest and most widely used spinning technology. Recently, many alternative spinning technologies have been introduced. Some of these technologies work on completely different working principle while some of them were developed from conventional system with some modifications. Siro- spun technology which two strands are fed into drafting zone simultaneously is one of the systems that developed from conventional ring spinning. This study focuses on development of three-roving yarn production system that was inspired from siro-spun technology. Roving funnel and delivery cylinder used in siro-spun technology were redesigned for three-roving yarn production and attached on conventional system. Three-roving yarns produced in ring spinning machine were compared with three plied yarns in terms of physical, mechanical and structural properties. For better assessment of this new system, different raw material types were used in yarn production. Results showed that three-roving yarns have better hairiness values and similar mechanical properties for all raw material types. However, unevenness still needs to be improved by further developments on this new system.
环锭纺纱是最古老、应用最广泛的纺纱技术之一。近年来,出现了许多可供选择的纺纱技术。这些技术有的采用了完全不同的工作原理,有的则是在传统系统的基础上进行了一些修改而发展起来的。在传统环锭纺纱的基础上发展起来的两股同时送入牵伸区的西纺技术。本研究的重点是开发三粗纱生产系统,该系统是受西纺技术的启发而开发的。对赛络纺纱工艺中使用的粗纱漏斗和送纱筒进行了重新设计,使其适用于三粗纱生产,并附加在常规系统上。对环锭纺纱机生产的三粗纱与三股捻纱的物理、力学和结构性能进行了比较。为了更好地评估这个新系统,在纱线生产中使用了不同的原料类型。结果表明:三种粗纱在不同原料类型下具有较好的毛羽值和相近的力学性能。然而,这种不平衡仍然需要通过对这一新系统的进一步发展来改善。
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引用次数: 1
PVA-GELATIN HYDROGELS CONTAINING ROSEMARY ESSENTIAL OIL FOR WOUND DRESSINGS 含有迷迭香精油的pva -明胶水凝胶,用于伤口敷料
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.56
D. Radulescu, Diana-Elena Radulescu, G. Constantinescu, L. Chirilă, A. Popescu
Wound healing represents one of the most important processes evaluated in the biomedical field. In this regard, healing is defined as a dynamic and complex process in which the tissue integrity and the normal functions of the damaged tissue are restored. The purpose of this research was to achieve the main characteristics of an ideal wound dressing to prevent maceration, provide a moist environment, remove the exudate that is accumulated from the wound and to maintain a proper permeability to the wound bed. Different hydrogels were designed and developed through the esterification reaction of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) with gelatin (GELL). The hydrogels were prepared in various weight ratios of PVA:GELL (4:1 and 1:4), by adding rosemary essential oil as an active compound. The incorporation of Rosemarinus officinalis L (rosemary) essential oil in PVA/GELL hydrogels represents a potential method for the improvement of the wound healing process. Further, the developed hydrogels were applied by immersion on cotton gauze. The synthetized specimens were evaluated from morphological and rheological point of view, by performing Optical Microscopy, fluid uptake ability and porosity measurements.
伤口愈合是生物医学领域最重要的过程之一。在这方面,愈合被定义为一个动态和复杂的过程,在这个过程中,组织完整性和受损组织的正常功能得到恢复。本研究的目的是实现理想伤口敷料的主要特性,以防止浸渍,提供潮湿的环境,去除伤口积聚的渗出液,并保持伤口床的适当渗透性。通过聚乙烯醇(PVA)与明胶(GELL)的酯化反应,设计并制备了不同类型的水凝胶。以PVA:GELL的重量比(4:1和1:4)为原料,加入迷迭香精油作为活性化合物制备水凝胶。在PVA/GELL水凝胶中掺入迷迭香精油代表了一种改善伤口愈合过程的潜在方法。将制备好的水凝胶浸渍在棉纱上。通过光学显微镜、流体吸收能力和孔隙度测量,从形态学和流变学角度对合成的样品进行了评估。
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引用次数: 1
THEELECTROMAGNETICSHIELDINGBEHAVIOROFLAYERED KNITTED FABRIC STRUCTURES 层状针织物结构的电磁屏蔽性能
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.08
Özlem Kayacan, Neza Bakir, Barkın Traş
The increase in daily usage of electrical and electronic tools simplify the lives of human beings, on the other hand, they also create an enormous electromagnetic pollution. In industrial applications, electromagnetic shielding materials are used to prevent these electromagnetic signals. The studies on human health against the electromagnetic pollution was determined that the widely usage of these electronic devices increases the risk of cancer. Especially in low frequency fields, the most consistent evidence is obtained in childhood leukemia [1]. In order to reduce the damage of these electromagnetic waves, researches have been still made on the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness. Electrically conductive technical textiles are also investigated for this aim. Different textile structures such as knitted, woven, composite or coated textiles etc and also different conductive yarns are produced to prevent these harmful waves [2-5].In this study, it is aimed to investigate the electromagnetic shielding performances of conductive knitted fabrics. In order to search the efficiency of these fabrics, single jersey and interlock knitted structures are produced. By using these fabrics, two different types of double-layered fabric structures are formed and the shielding effectiveness of these structures are investigated experimentally [6}.
电子电器日常使用的增加使人们的生活变得简单,但在另一方面,它们也造成了巨大的电磁污染。在工业应用中,电磁屏蔽材料用于防止这些电磁信号。电磁污染对人体健康的影响研究表明,电子设备的广泛使用增加了患癌症的风险。尤其是低频场,在儿童白血病中获得了最一致的证据[1]。为了降低这些电磁波的伤害,人们还在进行电磁屏蔽效能的研究。导电产业用纺织品也为此目的进行了研究。生产不同的纺织结构,如针织、梭织、复合或涂层纺织品等,以及不同的导电纱线来防止这些有害波[2-5]。本研究旨在研究导电针织物的电磁屏蔽性能。为了探索这些织物的效率,生产了单针织物和互锁针织物。利用这些织物,形成了两种不同类型的双层织物结构,并对这些结构的屏蔽效果进行了实验研究[6]。
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引用次数: 0
GRAPHENE/GRAPHENE OXIDE BASED COATINGS FOR ADVANCED TEXTILE APPLICATIONS 先进纺织用石墨烯/氧化石墨烯基涂料
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.31
Nida Naeem, M. Abbas, M. Malik
Today, graphene oxide has been significantly used in many technological sectors, medical sectors as well in textiles due to its abundant applications and dominant characteristics. Graphene oxide is basically a mono layered material synthesized by the oxidation of graphite by the addition of multiple functional groups containing oxygen such as alcohols, carboxylic acids and epoxides and presenting a 2-diamentional honeycomb structure. On the textile surfaces the grapheme oxide can be applied through Pad dry-cure, Dip dry-cure and Spray coating methods. However, the most appropriate method is dipping of the fabric into the graphene suspension and the process is followed by drying and curing techniques. Initially, the fabric swatches have been cut out in a suitable size according to the padder or adjustments on the machine can also be done. 100% pure cotton, polyester, cotton polyester blend, silk, aramids and acrylics have been used as a substrate for the application of graphene to imparts different functional properties. The oxygen content is reduced resulting the increase in the interlayer spacing’s well as functionalization. The oxygen containing groups have beenremoved with the repossession of the conjugated structure. The reduced graphene oxide has the higher strength as well as high electrical and thermal conductivity which effect the final performance of a materials.
如今,氧化石墨烯由于其广泛的应用和优势特性,在许多技术领域、医疗领域以及纺织领域都得到了广泛的应用。氧化石墨烯基本上是石墨通过加成含氧的多个官能团(如醇、羧酸、环氧化物等)氧化合成的单层材料,呈二维蜂窝结构。氧化石墨烯可通过垫干固化、浸渍干固化和喷涂三种方法涂在纺织品表面。然而,最合适的方法是将织物浸入石墨烯悬浮液中,然后进行干燥和固化技术。最初,布料样板已经根据垫片裁剪出合适的尺寸,或者也可以在机器上进行调整。100%纯棉、涤纶、棉涤混纺、丝绸、芳纶和丙烯酸被用作石墨烯应用的基材,以赋予不同的功能性能。氧含量的降低导致层间距的增加以及功能化。含氧基团被移除了,共轭结构被重新占有。还原后的氧化石墨烯具有更高的强度以及高的导电性和导热性,从而影响材料的最终性能。
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引用次数: 0
INVESTIGATION OFTHE USAGE OF OZONEIN DENIMFINISHINGPROCESSES 臭氧在精加工过程中的应用研究
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.20
Ö. Al, E. Sam, M. Sarıışık, G. Kartal
Nowadays, too much water, energy, chemical substances are consumed for the conventional textilefinishing processes and more chemicals are exposed to the environmental load. In our world of diminishingresources, the most ideal way of using the available resources has been inevitable in the name of all living thingson earth. In order to alleviate the environmental burden and increase the green production understanding, thetextile finishing sector continues to work as in other sectors. The chemicals used in the studies are minimized tobe preferred environmentally friendly substances. Enzymes used in textile finishing, ultrasound technology anduse of ozone as oxidizing agents can be seen as the successful results of these studies [1-4].In this study, processes that can reduce the environmental load in denim finishing processes were investigated with ozone gas used in many fields in recent years. Denim fabrics were treated with ozone and compared withother conventional denim finishing methods. In this study, which is performed in order to improve the bleachingprocess with ozone, it is envisaged to reduce the chemicals and water used in conventional denim finishing. Theoperations were carried out on a total of 20 pants, which were sizing and desized pants. In addition, preliminarytrials were carried out at acidic, basic and neutral pHs to examine the effect of pH change on the ozonebleaching process. I n accordance with the results of previous studies, it was decided to make the best humidityrate of 60%. Ozone concentration was chosen as 100 g/m3 and 200 g/m3. In addition to these, ozone applicationtime was determined as 20 minutes. Weight loss, tear strength and color measurement analysis of the fabrics were performed before and after the ozone processes.
目前,传统的纺织后整理工艺消耗了大量的水、能源和化学物质,更多的化学物质暴露在环境负荷中。在我们这个资源日益减少的世界里,以地球上所有生物的名义,使用现有资源的最理想方式是不可避免的。为了减轻环境负担和提高对绿色生产的认识,纺织整理部门继续像其他部门一样工作。研究中使用的化学物质被最小化,以首选环境友好物质。在纺织品整理中使用的酶,超声波技术和臭氧作为氧化剂的使用可以被视为这些研究的成功成果[1-4]。本研究针对近年来臭氧气体在牛仔布整理过程中的应用,探讨了减少环境负荷的工艺。对牛仔织物进行了臭氧处理,并与其他常规牛仔织物整理方法进行了比较。在这项研究中,为了改进臭氧漂白过程,设想减少传统牛仔布整理中使用的化学品和水。总共对20条裤子进行了手术,这些裤子是上浆和退码的。此外,还在酸性、碱性和中性pH下进行了初步试验,考察了pH变化对臭氧漂白过程的影响。根据前人的研究结果,确定最佳湿度为60%。臭氧浓度分别为100 g/m3和200 g/m3。此外,臭氧应用时间确定为20分钟。对臭氧处理前后织物的失重、撕裂强度和颜色进行了测定分析。
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引用次数: 0
EFFECTS OF ARTIFICIAL AGEING ON TEXTILES' PROPERTIES 人工老化对纺织品性能的影响
Pub Date : 2019-11-05 DOI: 10.35530/tt.2019.28
E. Mitran, I. Sandulache, L. Secăreanu, O. Iordache, E. Perdum, Maria Memecică
In the present paper work it was evaluated the degradation degree of textile material after different types of exposure using micro-destructive methods such as: Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), stereomicroscope and Datacolor spectrophotometer. Thus, samples of cotton fabrics were exposed in three different methods: first – outdoors, to natural conditions, second – at a temperature of 60⁰C in an oven and third– buried in commercial plant soil in closed recipients. After 72 hours and 216 hour, specimens of thesamples were taken and evaluated. Thereby, microscopic analyzes revealed that the cotton materialsare more degraded after burial. The results obtained were correlated with chromatic parameters(DL*, DC*, DE*) and white degree (Berger and CIE). All the samples have color differences incomparison with the unexposed samples; they also present more saturated color and are darker.Cultural heritage represents our history, thus it is important to know how the environment works ontextile materials and this way we can manage better the conservation requirements. Future studies willalso be carried out on linen and woolfabrics.
本文采用扫描电镜、体视显微镜和Datacolor分光光度计等微破坏方法,对不同暴露方式下纺织材料的降解程度进行了评价。因此,棉织物样品以三种不同的方法暴露:第一种是在室外自然条件下,第二种是在60⁰C的烤箱中,第三种是在封闭的接受者中埋在商业植物土壤中。72h和216 h后分别取标本进行评价。因此,微观分析表明,棉花材料在掩埋后降解程度更高。所得结果与色度参数(DL*, DC*, DE*)和白度(Berger和CIE)相关。所有样品与未曝光样品相比都有色差;它们也呈现出更饱和的颜色,颜色更深。文化遗产代表了我们的历史,因此了解环境对纺织材料的影响是很重要的,这样我们就可以更好地管理保护要求。未来的研究也将在亚麻和羊毛织物上进行。
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引用次数: 0
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