Pub Date : 2021-01-14DOI: 10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.32-46
T. Grethe
Biodegradable polymers are currently discussed for applications in different fields and are becoming of increasing interest in textile research. While a plethora of work has been done for PLA in medical textiles, other biodegradable polymers and their textile application fields are studied less often, presumably due to higher costs and fewer market opportunities. However, some are emerging from research to pilot scale, and are already utilized commercially in packaging and other sectors but not, unfortunately, in textiles. The commercialisation of such polymers is fuelled by improved biotechnological production processes, show¬ing that textile applications are increasingly conceivable for the future. Additionally, commonly accepted definitions for biodegradability are probably misleading, if they are used to estimate the environmental burden of waste management or recycling of such materials. In this review, the current state of research in the field of biodegradable polymers for the application in textile materials is presented to identify emerging developments for new textile applications. It was clearly seen that PLA is most dominant in that field, while others facilitate new options in the future. The production costs of raw materials and the current patent situation are also evaluated. A special focus is placed on fibre raw materials, coatings, and additives for clothing and technical textiles. Fibre-reinforced composites are excluded, since polymers applied for the matrix component require very different properties compared to the textile materials. This represents a topic to be discussed separately. As a result, these new biodegradable polymers might serve as interesting coating materials for textiles that seem to sneak on to the textile market, as the patent search for such coating formulations suggests. Moreover, new biodegradable fibrous materials for clothing applications can be suggested, but some material properties must be addressed to render them processable on common textile machines.
{"title":"Biodegradable Synthetic Polymers in Textiles – What Lies Beyond PLA and Medical Applications? A Review.","authors":"T. Grethe","doi":"10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.32-46","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.32-46","url":null,"abstract":"Biodegradable polymers are currently discussed for applications in different fields and are becoming of increasing interest in textile research. While a plethora of work has been done for PLA in medical textiles, other biodegradable polymers and their textile application fields are studied less often, presumably due to higher costs and fewer market opportunities. However, some are emerging from research to pilot scale, and are already utilized commercially in packaging and other sectors but not, unfortunately, in textiles. The commercialisation of such polymers is fuelled by improved biotechnological production processes, show¬ing that textile applications are increasingly conceivable for the future. Additionally, commonly accepted definitions for biodegradability are probably misleading, if they are used to estimate the environmental burden of waste management or recycling of such materials. In this review, the current state of research in the field of biodegradable polymers for the application in textile materials is presented to identify emerging developments for new textile applications. It was clearly seen that PLA is most dominant in that field, while others facilitate new options in the future. The production costs of raw materials and the current patent situation are also evaluated. A special focus is placed on fibre raw materials, coatings, and additives for clothing and technical textiles. Fibre-reinforced composites are excluded, since polymers applied for the matrix component require very different properties compared to the textile materials. This represents a topic to be discussed separately. As a result, these new biodegradable polymers might serve as interesting coating materials for textiles that seem to sneak on to the textile market, as the patent search for such coating formulations suggests. Moreover, new biodegradable fibrous materials for clothing applications can be suggested, but some material properties must be addressed to render them processable on common textile machines.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-01-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48861260","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-14DOI: 10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.25-31
Bosiljak Šaravanja, T. Pušić, K. Malaric, A. H. Šajatović
The protective shield effectiveness (SE) of copper-coated polyamide and polyester interlining fabrics at frequen¬cies of 1.8 GHz, 2.1 GHz and 2.4 GHz are presented in this study. These fabrics were treated through 10 cycles of dry and wet cleaning. After the characterization of shield effectiveness, fabrics were stored in a dark and dry place. On the basis of the SE values at all measured frequencies, it was confirmed that the copper-coated protective polyester fabric had better SE durability under storage conditions than the copper-coated polyamide fabric. Accordingly, the copper-coated polyester interlining fabric is more suitable for integration into functional clothing due to its use cycle.
{"title":"Durability of Shield Effectiveness of Copper-Coated Interlining Fabrics","authors":"Bosiljak Šaravanja, T. Pušić, K. Malaric, A. H. Šajatović","doi":"10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.25-31","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.25-31","url":null,"abstract":"The protective shield effectiveness (SE) of copper-coated polyamide and polyester interlining fabrics at frequen¬cies of 1.8 GHz, 2.1 GHz and 2.4 GHz are presented in this study. These fabrics were treated through 10 cycles of dry and wet cleaning. After the characterization of shield effectiveness, fabrics were stored in a dark and dry place. On the basis of the SE values at all measured frequencies, it was confirmed that the copper-coated protective polyester fabric had better SE durability under storage conditions than the copper-coated polyamide fabric. Accordingly, the copper-coated polyester interlining fabric is more suitable for integration into functional clothing due to its use cycle.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-01-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42468344","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-11-20DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.305-320
O. Kr, J. Chakraborty
Sodium hydrosulphite is used commercially as the reducing agent for vat dyes in the dyeing of cotton. Large amounts of sodium sulphate, sulphur oxyanion and toxic sulphite are produced during the dyeing due to the dissociation of sodium hydrosulphite leading to severe air and water pollution. This research focuses on the use of alkaline iron (II) salt as the reducing agent for vat dyeing on cotton fabrics through a complete replace¬ment of hydrosulphite. The 34 Box-Behnken design was used to achieve optimum parameters and statistically analyse the performance of the new reducing system. The results showed that the alkaline iron (II) salt system was relatively effective in developing a comparable dyebath reduction potential, surface colour strength of cotton and colourfastness, if compared to the hydrosulphite-based reducing system. The dyebath stability in the presence and absence of the dye also showed superior results compared to that of the hydrosulphite system. Hence, it can be said that a complete substitution of sodium hydrosulphite with alkaline iron (II) salt is possible.
{"title":"Eco-Friendly Vat Dyeing of Cotton Using Alkaline Iron (II) Salt as Reducing Agent","authors":"O. Kr, J. Chakraborty","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.305-320","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.305-320","url":null,"abstract":"Sodium hydrosulphite is used commercially as the reducing agent for vat dyes in the dyeing of cotton. Large amounts of sodium sulphate, sulphur oxyanion and toxic sulphite are produced during the dyeing due to the dissociation of sodium hydrosulphite leading to severe air and water pollution. This research focuses on the use of alkaline iron (II) salt as the reducing agent for vat dyeing on cotton fabrics through a complete replace¬ment of hydrosulphite. The 34 Box-Behnken design was used to achieve optimum parameters and statistically analyse the performance of the new reducing system. The results showed that the alkaline iron (II) salt system was relatively effective in developing a comparable dyebath reduction potential, surface colour strength of cotton and colourfastness, if compared to the hydrosulphite-based reducing system. The dyebath stability in the presence and absence of the dye also showed superior results compared to that of the hydrosulphite system. Hence, it can be said that a complete substitution of sodium hydrosulphite with alkaline iron (II) salt is possible.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-11-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45141773","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-11-20DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.294-304
Ekrem Gulsevincler, M. Usal, D. Yılmaz
In this study, the effect of 100% atmospheric relative humidity on yarn properties was investigated using jet-ring nozzles and compared with the yarn properties of yarns produced with air operated jet-ring nozzles under normal conditions. As a humidification system, a pneumatic conditioner, also known as a lubricant, was used in pneumatic systems. This conditioner was connected just before the pneumatic distributor that supplies air to the nozzles. The tube in stage 2 of the conditioner was filled with pure water at room temperature (25 °C ± 2 °C). The air conditioner dose was adjusted to 100% atmospheric relative humidity. The use of humidified air to jet-ring nozzles had a slight positive effect on all yarn properties (yarn hairiness, yarn irregularity, yarn elongation and yarn tenacity). According to the results, it resulted in a 1% to 3% improvement in yarn quality. This study is the first example and an original study in this field, as there is no study using humidified air in existing jet-ring air nozzle studies. It was proven in this study that humidified air results in a slight improvement in yarn properties.
{"title":"The Effect of Humidified Air on Yarn Properties in a Jet-Ring Spinning System","authors":"Ekrem Gulsevincler, M. Usal, D. Yılmaz","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.294-304","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.294-304","url":null,"abstract":"In this study, the effect of 100% atmospheric relative humidity on yarn properties was investigated using jet-ring nozzles and compared with the yarn properties of yarns produced with air operated jet-ring nozzles under normal conditions. As a humidification system, a pneumatic conditioner, also known as a lubricant, was used in pneumatic systems. This conditioner was connected just before the pneumatic distributor that supplies air to the nozzles. The tube in stage 2 of the conditioner was filled with pure water at room temperature (25 °C ± 2 °C). The air conditioner dose was adjusted to 100% atmospheric relative humidity. The use of humidified air to jet-ring nozzles had a slight positive effect on all yarn properties (yarn hairiness, yarn irregularity, yarn elongation and yarn tenacity). According to the results, it resulted in a 1% to 3% improvement in yarn quality. This study is the first example and an original study in this field, as there is no study using humidified air in existing jet-ring air nozzle studies. It was proven in this study that humidified air results in a slight improvement in yarn properties.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-11-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45672576","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-11-20DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.263-275
Yetanawork Teyeme, B. Malengier, T. Tesfaye, S. Vasile, L. Langenhove, Fashion, Buchtenstraat Ghent Belgium Arts
The aim of this study was to evaluate the wear comfort of four commercially available cycling outfits and under¬stand various subjective parameters of garments through consumer perception, which will enable the design and development of an optimized outfit. A questionnaire was developed specifically to address various key aspects such as tactile sensation, garment fit with reference to size, garment assembly, garment aesthetics (style and shape), comfort (before, during and after wearing) and overall satisfaction (relating to design of the garment and style). Three outfits were fabricated from polyester fabric and one from polyamide/elastane (80%/20%) fabric. They were assessed by four male professional cyclists (age 22−25) at various stages of a test protocol of 45 minutes total duration, of which 20 minutes was flat cycling. The four tested garments showed greater dif¬ferences between the sensorial comfort perceptions than thermophysiological comfort. The sensorial comfort sensation was found to be mainly correlated with fabric properties, fit, construction techniques and moisture sensation, whereas the thermophysiological comfort was found to be affected by the fabric characteristics, the test environment conditions and level of activity. Additionally, manual measurements showed great brand-based differences between garments of the same specified size M (medium). Overall, the polyamide/elastane jersey was perceived as a better cycling outfit than the polyester outfit. The results of this study provide guidance for the optimal design and development of professional cyclist outfits.
{"title":"Comfort Evaluation of Cyclists Jerseys Using Wear Trial Test","authors":"Yetanawork Teyeme, B. Malengier, T. Tesfaye, S. Vasile, L. Langenhove, Fashion, Buchtenstraat Ghent Belgium Arts","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.263-275","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.64.263-275","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this study was to evaluate the wear comfort of four commercially available cycling outfits and under¬stand various subjective parameters of garments through consumer perception, which will enable the design and development of an optimized outfit. A questionnaire was developed specifically to address various key aspects such as tactile sensation, garment fit with reference to size, garment assembly, garment aesthetics (style and shape), comfort (before, during and after wearing) and overall satisfaction (relating to design of the garment and style). Three outfits were fabricated from polyester fabric and one from polyamide/elastane (80%/20%) fabric. They were assessed by four male professional cyclists (age 22−25) at various stages of a test protocol of 45 minutes total duration, of which 20 minutes was flat cycling. The four tested garments showed greater dif¬ferences between the sensorial comfort perceptions than thermophysiological comfort. The sensorial comfort sensation was found to be mainly correlated with fabric properties, fit, construction techniques and moisture sensation, whereas the thermophysiological comfort was found to be affected by the fabric characteristics, the test environment conditions and level of activity. Additionally, manual measurements showed great brand-based differences between garments of the same specified size M (medium). Overall, the polyamide/elastane jersey was perceived as a better cycling outfit than the polyester outfit. The results of this study provide guidance for the optimal design and development of professional cyclist outfits.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-11-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46820721","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-09-28DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.233-238
Snezhina Angelova Andonova
One of the major technological processes in the sewing industry is the process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF). This is a process in which the main textile material connects to an additional textile material (interlining) through a polymer binder. This ensures better resistance to the shape of the individual parts of the sewing article. The main factors that influence the process are the temperature of the pressing plates, and the pressure and the duration of the process. The process has not been sufficiently studied and therefore it is important to identify a function that connects the output parameter to the input factors of the TMF process. It is especially important to choose an optimisation criterion. After numerous preliminary studies, some changes in textile materials (TM) after TMF have been observed. For example, the incorrect adjustment of process parameters (e.g. pressure, temperature and duration) changes the colour shade of TM after TMF. This change in the colour shade of the individual parts will impair the quality of the sewing product as a whole. This encourages the selection of the quality criterion. In light of the latter, the purpose of this paper was to derive a mathematical model of the TMF process that describes the influence of input factors on the quality criterion: changing the colour shade of TM after TMF.
{"title":"Influence of Fusing Conditions on the Change of Colour Shade in the Production of Clothing","authors":"Snezhina Angelova Andonova","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.233-238","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.233-238","url":null,"abstract":"One of the major technological processes in the sewing industry is the process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF). This is a process in which the main textile material connects to an additional textile material (interlining) through a polymer binder. This ensures better resistance to the shape of the individual parts of the sewing article. The main factors that influence the process are the temperature of the pressing plates, and the pressure and the duration of the process. The process has not been sufficiently studied and therefore it is important to identify a function that connects the output parameter to the input factors of the TMF process. It is especially important to choose an optimisation criterion. After numerous preliminary studies, some changes in textile materials (TM) after TMF have been observed. For example, the incorrect adjustment of process parameters (e.g. pressure, temperature and duration) changes the colour shade of TM after TMF. This change in the colour shade of the individual parts will impair the quality of the sewing product as a whole. This encourages the selection of the quality criterion. In light of the latter, the purpose of this paper was to derive a mathematical model of the TMF process that describes the influence of input factors on the quality criterion: changing the colour shade of TM after TMF.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47156707","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-09-28DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.216-224
Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović, D. Ujević, Slavenka Petrak
The aim of this research was to identify the differences in body proportions between football players and the untrained population, and their influence on trouser fit. By identifying the differences in body measurements, and comparing the empirical and constructional values of body measurements required for the construction of men’s trousers, an attempt was made to prove the need for a change in the existing cut of trousers. A total of 324 men aged 15 to 26 years participated in the research. The survey involved 162 football players with an average playing experience of 10.7 years and 162 untrained subjects from the general population. A total of 19 variables were analysed relating to the study of the fit of men’s trousers. The SPSS software package was used for statistical data processing. The results showed that the football players were slightly but not significantly, taller, that their chest girth was almost the same as untrained subjects, and that their hip girth was slightly smaller. The greatest and most significant statistical difference was in the mid-thigh girth, which is greater in football players, and the waist girth, which is smaller in football players. Due to the identified value of a statistically significant increase of the mean thigh girth in football players, the modelling of trousers in this area was performed. The performed modelling of men’s trousers met the criterion of garment fit, and opens the possibility of cooperation with industry in terms of improving the making of cuts for the surveyed sport population.
{"title":"Body Proportions of Football Players and the Untrained Population, and the Impact on the fit of the Trousers","authors":"Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović, D. Ujević, Slavenka Petrak","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.216-224","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.216-224","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this research was to identify the differences in body proportions between football players and the untrained population, and their influence on trouser fit. By identifying the differences in body measurements, and comparing the empirical and constructional values of body measurements required for the construction of men’s trousers, an attempt was made to prove the need for a change in the existing cut of trousers. A total of 324 men aged 15 to 26 years participated in the research. The survey involved 162 football players with an average playing experience of 10.7 years and 162 untrained subjects from the general population. A total of 19 variables were analysed relating to the study of the fit of men’s trousers. The SPSS software package was used for statistical data processing. The results showed that the football players were slightly but not significantly, taller, that their chest girth was almost the same as untrained subjects, and that their hip girth was slightly smaller. The greatest and most significant statistical difference was in the mid-thigh girth, which is greater in football players, and the waist girth, which is smaller in football players. Due to the identified value of a statistically significant increase of the mean thigh girth in football players, the modelling of trousers in this area was performed. The performed modelling of men’s trousers met the criterion of garment fit, and opens the possibility of cooperation with industry in terms of improving the making of cuts for the surveyed sport population.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41879808","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-09-28DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.166-184
Md. Mazharul Islam, M. Jalil, Md. Shohan Parvez, M. Haque
Grading is an inseparable part of producing multiple sized patterns in clothing production. From the inception of apparel manufacturing, various methods have been developed for precision pattern grading. Nevertheless, most conventional grading systems have some flaws. The objectives of this study were to analyse traditional grading systems, identify the factors responsible for pattern grading deficiencies and finally, recommend suggestions to minimise grading problems related to the use of CAD software. For the experiments, three different measurement sheets of different buyers were collected and combined into a single specification for better comparison. All garment patterns were then drawn and graded with varying parameters. Later on, measurements of graded patterns were analysed for grading accuracy. This study presents the factors responsible for grading deficiencies and how they can be minimised for higher precision grading for the better fitting of clothing and the prevention of garment sample rejection before bulk production.
{"title":"Assessment of the Factors Affecting Apparel Pattern Grading Accuracy: Problems Identification and Recommendations","authors":"Md. Mazharul Islam, M. Jalil, Md. Shohan Parvez, M. Haque","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.166-184","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.166-184","url":null,"abstract":"Grading is an inseparable part of producing multiple sized patterns in clothing production. From the inception of apparel manufacturing, various methods have been developed for precision pattern grading. Nevertheless, most conventional grading systems have some flaws. The objectives of this study were to analyse traditional grading systems, identify the factors responsible for pattern grading deficiencies and finally, recommend suggestions to minimise grading problems related to the use of CAD software. For the experiments, three different measurement sheets of different buyers were collected and combined into a single specification for better comparison. All garment patterns were then drawn and graded with varying parameters. Later on, measurements of graded patterns were analysed for grading accuracy. This study presents the factors responsible for grading deficiencies and how they can be minimised for higher precision grading for the better fitting of clothing and the prevention of garment sample rejection before bulk production.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45144552","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-09-28DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.195-202
K. Nahar, Shurfun Nahar Arju, J. Ferdush, Marzia Islam, Tarifun Akter
Natural dyestuff has reverted its position in the colouration of textile substrates due to rising concerns of consumers and buyers, particularly about environmental impacts and health issues. Eucalyptus leaves were selected in this study as a source of natural dye along with some of the most generally used mordants to observe the impact of dyeing on jute fabric while trying to keep the dyeing parameters at a minimum level. Dyes were extracted from eucalyptus leaves by boiling in water. Then, the fabric was pre-mordanted using different synthetic mordanting agents, such as alum, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate, which are generally used to substantively enhance the dyestuff on textile fabrics and to improve the fastness properties. Synthetic mordant was used here instead of natural mordant due to the better dyeing compatibility of jute fabric with eucalyptus leaves, since natural mordant has little effect on jute fabric during the process of dyeing. Another aim of this research is to curb the time and energy consumption of the jute dyeing process and so the dyeing is carried out at 75 °C for about 30 minutes. Various types of evaluations were conducted through visual assessment, checking the colour-coordinate values and colour strength values. While colour fastness properties were evaluated by different fastness testing, such as colour fastness to water, washing, rubbing and perspiration. This dyeing process yields a colour range from yellowish to brown with the variation of mordants applied on the fabric. In addition to that, colour co-ordinate and colour strength values ensure better results of dyed fabrics pretreated with ferrous sulphate. Jute fabric dyed with only extracted eucalyptus solution provided satisfactory results in all colour fastness tests, while fabric treated with different mordants showed variations in fastness ratings, and fabric treated with ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate had slightly better fastness ratings.
{"title":"Colorimetric Analysis and Fastness Properties of Jute Fabric Dyed with Eucalyptus Leaves","authors":"K. Nahar, Shurfun Nahar Arju, J. Ferdush, Marzia Islam, Tarifun Akter","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.195-202","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.195-202","url":null,"abstract":"Natural dyestuff has reverted its position in the colouration of textile substrates due to rising concerns of consumers and buyers, particularly about environmental impacts and health issues. Eucalyptus leaves were selected in this study as a source of natural dye along with some of the most generally used mordants to observe the impact of dyeing on jute fabric while trying to keep the dyeing parameters at a minimum level. Dyes were extracted from eucalyptus leaves by boiling in water. Then, the fabric was pre-mordanted using different synthetic mordanting agents, such as alum, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate, which are generally used to substantively enhance the dyestuff on textile fabrics and to improve the fastness properties. Synthetic mordant was used here instead of natural mordant due to the better dyeing compatibility of jute fabric with eucalyptus leaves, since natural mordant has little effect on jute fabric during the process of dyeing. Another aim of this research is to curb the time and energy consumption of the jute dyeing process and so the dyeing is carried out at 75 °C for about 30 minutes. Various types of evaluations were conducted through visual assessment, checking the colour-coordinate values and colour strength values. While colour fastness properties were evaluated by different fastness testing, such as colour fastness to water, washing, rubbing and perspiration. This dyeing process yields a colour range from yellowish to brown with the variation of mordants applied on the fabric. In addition to that, colour co-ordinate and colour strength values ensure better results of dyed fabrics pretreated with ferrous sulphate. Jute fabric dyed with only extracted eucalyptus solution provided satisfactory results in all colour fastness tests, while fabric treated with different mordants showed variations in fastness ratings, and fabric treated with ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate had slightly better fastness ratings.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2020-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49206631","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-09-28DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.185-194
Sukhvir Singh Mody
Sources of inspiration play a vital role during the initial stages of the fashion design process by providing a specific direction to the entire fashion design process. Fashion designers interpret their imagination to improve the creative use of design inspirations during the development of clothing collections. Such exploration for design inspiration is crucial in the fashion design process for absorbing visual ideas and translating them into original creative clothing. The uniqueness of such creatively and systematically designed original clothing will also improve significantly. The current study focuses on the systematic development of a collection of casual women’s wear inspired by the Hawa Mahal (The Palace of Winds) historical monument in Jaipur, Rajasthan. The fabric patterns were developed by extracting motifs from the Hawa Mahal architectural marvel using computer-aided designing solutions and digital printing with hand embroidery. In order to check the market potential of developed garments, a mini-survey was also conducted to analyse the extent of the appropriateness of garment silhouettes, fitting and drape, and overall aesthetic features among targeted consumers.
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