Pub Date : 2023-05-30DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.66.2023016
Katarina Nina Simončič
Since the advent of mass production, where the quantity of clothing reflects the consumption habits of society, fashion has become a reflection of the capitalist atmosphere. The reciprocity of society and fashion begin to occupy and initiate all the intense theoretical discussions that lead to the emergence of new branches of scientific research in the social-humanist field. The two most important scientific field are the history of fashion and fashion theory, whose analyses focus on the role of clothing as part of material culture conditioned by the political, social, economic and religious context. These two branches of science are increasingly becoming the focus of fashion design students in the education system. As a result, the above disciplines are included as separate compulsory subjects in the fashion design programme, developing strong theoretical skills at the expense of practical production and collection making. This approach represents a significant departure from the curricula of previous fashion design programmes, where the conditioning of the profession by political, economic, technological and social impulses was evident. In 2014, the former Centre for Fashion Studies at the Stockholm College highlighted the problem of a strong dichotomy between theoretical and fashion design courses in fashion design programmes and organised a symposium entitled ‘Fashion Issues: Critical Fashion Studies’. Based on his guidelines, the project ‘Critical Fashion: Reflections in Theory and Practice’ was developed as part of the degree programme at Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm, resulting in a highly discursive internet platform with the symbolic name ‘Critical fashion practice’. The aim of the new approaches was to rethink the importance of theoretical approaches in observing fashion production based on reflection of social relations, media images and personal experiences. This paper analyses the contribution of the platform ‘Critical fashion practice’ in the context of theoretical-practical teaching for fashion design students at the Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb.
{"title":"Introducing the Methodology of ‘Critical Fashion Practice’ into Fashion Design Studies in Croatia","authors":"Katarina Nina Simončič","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.66.2023016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.66.2023016","url":null,"abstract":"Since the advent of mass production, where the quantity of clothing reflects the consumption habits of society, fashion has become a reflection of the capitalist atmosphere. The reciprocity of society and fashion begin to occupy and initiate all the intense theoretical discussions that lead to the emergence of new branches of scientific research in the social-humanist field. The two most important scientific field are the history of fashion and fashion theory, whose analyses focus on the role of clothing as part of material culture conditioned by the political, social, economic and religious context. These two branches of science are increasingly becoming the focus of fashion design students in the education system. As a result, the above disciplines are included as separate compulsory subjects in the fashion design programme, developing strong theoretical skills at the expense of practical production and collection making. This approach represents a significant departure from the curricula of previous fashion design programmes, where the conditioning of the profession by political, economic, technological and social impulses was evident. In 2014, the former Centre for Fashion Studies at the Stockholm College highlighted the problem of a strong dichotomy between theoretical and fashion design courses in fashion design programmes and organised a symposium entitled ‘Fashion Issues: Critical Fashion Studies’. Based on his guidelines, the project ‘Critical Fashion: Reflections in Theory and Practice’ was developed as part of the degree programme at Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm, resulting in a highly discursive internet platform with the symbolic name ‘Critical fashion practice’. The aim of the new approaches was to rethink the importance of theoretical approaches in observing fashion production based on reflection of social relations, media images and personal experiences. This paper analyses the contribution of the platform ‘Critical fashion practice’ in the context of theoretical-practical teaching for fashion design students at the Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43280104","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-05-12DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.66.2022108
M. Y. A. El-Aziz, Z. Abdel-megied, K. Seddik
Currently, technical fabrics play a major role in many industries due to their multiple characteristics. The aim of this research was to utilize composite knitted bars to reinforce concrete beams. Six cord-knitted samples with two different polypropylene yarn counts (outer layer) and three different core materials were manufactured and immersed in a local epoxy material (Kemapoxy 150). Composite knitted bars were prepared in this way. Several tests were conducted for fabrics and knitted bar samples. All data were collected and analysed using two different tools: ANOVA test and radar chart area. Finally, three concrete beams with a varying number of cord-knitted bars (one bar, two bars and three bars) were produced. The results indicated that the differences in outer and core yarns for cord-knitted samples have a significant effect on several fabric and bar characteristics. The knitted bars with PP core yarn can be more beneficial for concrete that do does not require high stress, while the knitted bars using glass fibres and polypropylene (50% and 50% PE) as core materials are not appropriate for applications that require more flexibility and extensibility. Reinforced concrete beams were improved significantly with cord-knitted bars, taking into account the number of bars per area, which may cause the minimizing of flexure force through an increase in that number of bars per area.
{"title":"Enhancement Reinforcing Concrete Beams Using Polypropylene Cord-Knitted Bars","authors":"M. Y. A. El-Aziz, Z. Abdel-megied, K. Seddik","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.66.2022108","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.66.2022108","url":null,"abstract":"Currently, technical fabrics play a major role in many industries due to their multiple characteristics. The aim of this research was to utilize composite knitted bars to reinforce concrete beams. Six cord-knitted samples with two different polypropylene yarn counts (outer layer) and three different core materials were manufactured and immersed in a local epoxy material (Kemapoxy 150). Composite knitted bars were prepared in this way. Several tests were conducted for fabrics and knitted bar samples. All data were collected and analysed using two different tools: ANOVA test and radar chart area. Finally, three concrete beams with a varying number of cord-knitted bars (one bar, two bars and three bars) were produced. The results indicated that the differences in outer and core yarns for cord-knitted samples have a significant effect on several fabric and bar characteristics. The knitted bars with PP core yarn can be more beneficial for concrete that do does not require high stress, while the knitted bars using glass fibres and polypropylene (50% and 50% PE) as core materials are not appropriate for applications that require more flexibility and extensibility. Reinforced concrete beams were improved significantly with cord-knitted bars, taking into account the number of bars per area, which may cause the minimizing of flexure force through an increase in that number of bars per area.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-05-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43382371","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-05-10DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.66.2023012
Göksal Erdem, T. Grothe, A. Ehrmann
Combining 3D printing, especially fused deposition modelling (FDM) as a material extrusion technique, with textile fabrics can lead to full-layer composites as well as partly reinforced textiles with different mechanical properties at different positions. While the combination of both techniques enables the production of new kinds of objects different from common fibre-reinforced matrices, the adhesion between both materials is still challenging and the subject of intense research activities. Besides well-known setup and printing parameters, such as the distance between nozzle and fabric or the extrusion temperature, material combinations, in particular, strongly influence the adhesion between 3D printed polymer and textile fabric. In this study, we investigate composites of woven fabrics from cotton (CO), polyester (PES) and a material blend (CO/PES) with newly developed thermoplastic materials for FDM printing, and show that depending on the FDM polymer, the adhesion can differ by a factor of more than four for different blends, comparing highest and lowest adhesion.
{"title":"Adhesion of new thermoplastic materials printed on textile fabrics","authors":"Göksal Erdem, T. Grothe, A. Ehrmann","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.66.2023012","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.66.2023012","url":null,"abstract":"Combining 3D printing, especially fused deposition modelling (FDM) as a material extrusion technique, with textile fabrics can lead to full-layer composites as well as partly reinforced textiles with different mechanical properties at different positions. While the combination of both techniques enables the production of new kinds of objects different from common fibre-reinforced matrices, the adhesion between both materials is still challenging and the subject of intense research activities. Besides well-known setup and printing parameters, such as the distance between nozzle and fabric or the extrusion temperature, material combinations, in particular, strongly influence the adhesion between 3D printed polymer and textile fabric. In this study, we investigate composites of woven fabrics from cotton (CO), polyester (PES) and a material blend (CO/PES) with newly developed thermoplastic materials for FDM printing, and show that depending on the FDM polymer, the adhesion can differ by a factor of more than four for different blends, comparing highest and lowest adhesion.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-05-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48836223","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-04-14DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022059
Ievgeniia Romaniuk, Olga Garanina, Ya. V. Red’ko, Natalia Borshchevska, Serhiy Kamenets Serhiy, Kernesh Viktoriia
Braided textile materials are widely used in many industries and agriculture. Braided tapes are used for domestic purposes, in the food industry, in construction, in medicine, in aircraft manufacturing, in electrical engineering, etc. Every braided product must correspond to a unique group of parameters and properties, depending on the initial manufacturing parameters. The production of braided tapes is still insufficiently explored. In the process of designing and manufacturing products with specified parameters, it is necessary to substantiate the formation of braided products. The manufacture of products with specific parameters and properties, and the creation of rational technological modes for that production represent urgent scientific issues to be addressed. One way to solve this problem is to conduct factorial experiments. This article thus presents the results of a factorial experiment, during which the following input parameters were determined based on preliminary studies: type of raw material, the linear density of raw materials and speed of removal of the product from the formation zone. The following were chosen as output parameters: breaking load, breaking elongation, the linear density of tapes, product width and the number of strands per 10 mm. The limits of factor variation were determined for four types of raw materials. Based on the results of the processing of the obtained experimental data, linear mathematical models were developed. The results of the verification of mathematical models indicated that they adequately describe the process of braiding tapes within the intervals determined by the conditions of the experiment. We thus established a connection between the factors of the braiding process and the properties of braided tapes.
{"title":"Mathematical Modelling of the Parameters of Braided Textile Tapes","authors":"Ievgeniia Romaniuk, Olga Garanina, Ya. V. Red’ko, Natalia Borshchevska, Serhiy Kamenets Serhiy, Kernesh Viktoriia","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022059","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022059","url":null,"abstract":"Braided textile materials are widely used in many industries and agriculture. Braided tapes are used for domestic purposes, in the food industry, in construction, in medicine, in aircraft manufacturing, in electrical engineering, etc. Every braided product must correspond to a unique group of parameters and properties, depending on the initial manufacturing parameters. The production of braided tapes is still insufficiently explored. In the process of designing and manufacturing products with specified parameters, it is necessary to substantiate the formation of braided products. The manufacture of products with specific parameters and properties, and the creation of rational technological modes for that production represent urgent scientific issues to be addressed. One way to solve this problem is to conduct factorial experiments. This article thus presents the results of a factorial experiment, during which the following input parameters were determined based on preliminary studies: type of raw material, the linear density of raw materials and speed of removal of the product from the formation zone. The following were chosen as output parameters: breaking load, breaking elongation, the linear density of tapes, product width and the number of strands per 10 mm. The limits of factor variation were determined for four types of raw materials. Based on the results of the processing of the obtained experimental data, linear mathematical models were developed. The results of the verification of mathematical models indicated that they adequately describe the process of braiding tapes within the intervals determined by the conditions of the experiment. We thus established a connection between the factors of the braiding process and the properties of braided tapes.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-04-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42919046","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-29DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022072
S. Manyim, A. Kiprop, J. Mwasiagi, A. C. Mecha
Coloured textile products are more marketable, and are therefore always in higher demand. This has increased the use of synthetic dyes in the textile industry, thus raising environmental pollution associated with synthetic dyes. Natural dyes have been shown to be suitable alternatives. However, the use of metallic mordants during dyeing means the process is not eco-friendly, hence the need to develop bio-mordants that can be used as alternatives to some toxic metallic mordants. In this study, the effects of bio-mordants on the dyeing properties of Euclea divinorum Hiern (Ebenaceae) dye extract were assessed using different mordanting methods on cotton fabric. Dyeing characteristics were evaluated in terms of colour fastness and colour strength. Antioxidant textile finishing properties of the natural dye on cotton fabric was determined using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH) method. The bio-mordants improved the colour strength for dyed cotton fabric from 0.612 to 0.863 and 0.911 for the cotton fabric mordanted with mango and rosemary, respectively. This study identified an important basis of suitable bio-mordants that can be applicable when dyeing cotton fabric with E. divinorum natural dye. In addition, the good antioxidant activity of 72.5% indicates that E. divinorum dye extract is a promising agent for the future development of bioactive, protective and health textile fabric.
{"title":"Cleaner Production of Bioactive and Coloured Cotton Fabric Using Euclea Divinorum Dye Extract with Bio-Mordants","authors":"S. Manyim, A. Kiprop, J. Mwasiagi, A. C. Mecha","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022072","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022072","url":null,"abstract":"Coloured textile products are more marketable, and are therefore always in higher demand. This has increased the use of synthetic dyes in the textile industry, thus raising environmental pollution associated with synthetic dyes. Natural dyes have been shown to be suitable alternatives. However, the use of metallic mordants during dyeing means the process is not eco-friendly, hence the need to develop bio-mordants that can be used as alternatives to some toxic metallic mordants. In this study, the effects of bio-mordants on the dyeing properties of Euclea divinorum Hiern (Ebenaceae) dye extract were assessed using different mordanting methods on cotton fabric. Dyeing characteristics were evaluated in terms of colour fastness and colour strength. Antioxidant textile finishing properties of the natural dye on cotton fabric was determined using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH) method. The bio-mordants improved the colour strength for dyed cotton fabric from 0.612 to 0.863 and 0.911 for the cotton fabric mordanted with mango and rosemary, respectively. This study identified an important basis of suitable bio-mordants that can be applicable when dyeing cotton fabric with E. divinorum natural dye. In addition, the good antioxidant activity of 72.5% indicates that E. divinorum dye extract is a promising agent for the future development of bioactive, protective and health textile fabric.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46079547","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-02-14DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022085
C. P, S. Ratnapandian
Increasing eco-consciousness among consumers is creating an expanding niche market for textiles coloured using natural dyes. Natural dyes are derived from different parts of plants, animals (insects and invertebrates) and minerals. Although plant sources are common, a growing global population makes them compete with food crops. Hence, there is a need to investigate alternate avenues for procuring natural dyes. This research examined the feasibility of utilizing extractions of sawdust, a waste product of the wood furniture industry, as a natural colorant. Sawdust is an inevitable waste generated during the conversion of wood into consumer products such as furniture (tables, chairs, etc.), doors and windows. Sawdust, generated in significant amounts by timber mills, may be used in chipboard manufacture. However, the furniture industry disposes of sawdust as fuel or sometimes as communal waste. In this study, segregated sawdust of the most common woods was collected from Ethiopian furniture houses in Addis Ababa and Bahir Dar. Dyeing was attempted on cotton and wool fabrics using individual aqueous extractions. Different shades were obtained only on wool by simultaneous mordanting with mordants, such as copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and potassium dichromate, using the exhaust dyeing method. Acceptable fastness to light, perspiration, rubbing and washing, as evaluated according to the relevant ISO standards, was obtained. It may be concluded that sawdust is a viable secondary source of natural dyes for textile coloration in Ethiopia and elsewhere.
{"title":"Evaluation of Sawdust as a Sustainable Dye Source in Ethiopia","authors":"C. P, S. Ratnapandian","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022085","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022085","url":null,"abstract":"Increasing eco-consciousness among consumers is creating an expanding niche market for textiles coloured using natural dyes. Natural dyes are derived from different parts of plants, animals (insects and invertebrates) and minerals. Although plant sources are common, a growing global population makes them compete with food crops. Hence, there is a need to investigate alternate avenues for procuring natural dyes. This research examined the feasibility of utilizing extractions of sawdust, a waste product of the wood furniture industry, as a natural colorant. Sawdust is an inevitable waste generated during the conversion of wood into consumer products such as furniture (tables, chairs, etc.), doors and windows. Sawdust, generated in significant amounts by timber mills, may be used in chipboard manufacture. However, the furniture industry disposes of sawdust as fuel or sometimes as communal waste. In this study, segregated sawdust of the most common woods was collected from Ethiopian furniture houses in Addis Ababa and Bahir Dar. Dyeing was attempted on cotton and wool fabrics using individual aqueous extractions. Different shades were obtained only on wool by simultaneous mordanting with mordants, such as copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and potassium dichromate, using the exhaust dyeing method. Acceptable fastness to light, perspiration, rubbing and washing, as evaluated according to the relevant ISO standards, was obtained. It may be concluded that sawdust is a viable secondary source of natural dyes for textile coloration in Ethiopia and elsewhere.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-02-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48419456","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-02-06DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022024
Kashaf Kazmi, Zafar Javed, Muhammad Salman, F. Iftikhar, Naseer Ahmed, Jawad Naeem, Abdul Jabbar, M. Karahan, M. S. Naeem
The water, air permeability and thermal resistance of fabrics are important attributes that have a significant impact on the thermal comfort properties of sportswear fabrics in different environmental conditions. In this work, terry and fleece fabrics were developed by varying the fibre content and mass per unit area of fabrics. Moreover, the thermo-physical properties of the developed fabrics, including air permeability, water vapor permeability and thermal resistance, were analysed before and after washing. The multi-response optimization of the thermal comfort properties of knitted fabrics was performed using principal component analysis (PCA) and the Taguchi signal-to-noise ratio (PCA-S/N ratio) to achieve optimal properties. It was determined that the selected parameters (fabric type, finishing, fibre content and fabric mass per unit area) had a significant effect on the thermal comfort properties of knitted fabrics. The PCA analysis showed that 100% cotton terry fabric before washing with an aerial weight of 220 g/m2 had higher air and water vapor permeability value, but a lower thermal resistance value.
织物的透水性、透气性和热阻性是影响运动服装面料在不同环境条件下热舒适性能的重要属性。在这项工作中，通过改变织物的纤维含量和单位面积的质量来开发毛圈和羊毛织物。并对织物在洗涤前后的透气性、透气性和热阻等热物理性能进行了分析。采用主成分分析(PCA)和田口信噪比(PCA- s /N)对针织物的热舒适性能进行多响应优化。结果表明，织物类型、整理、纤维含量、单位面积织物质量等参数对针织物的热舒适性能有显著影响。PCA分析表明，水洗前100%纯棉毛圈织物的空气和水蒸气渗透性值较高，空气质量为220 g/m2，热阻值较低。
{"title":"Optimization of Knitted Fabrics for better Thermo-Physiological Comfort by using Taguchi-based Principal Component Analysis","authors":"Kashaf Kazmi, Zafar Javed, Muhammad Salman, F. Iftikhar, Naseer Ahmed, Jawad Naeem, Abdul Jabbar, M. Karahan, M. S. Naeem","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022024","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022024","url":null,"abstract":"The water, air permeability and thermal resistance of fabrics are important attributes that have a significant impact on the thermal comfort properties of sportswear fabrics in different environmental conditions. In this work, terry and fleece fabrics were developed by varying the fibre content and mass per unit area of fabrics. Moreover, the thermo-physical properties of the developed fabrics, including air permeability, water vapor permeability and thermal resistance, were analysed before and after washing. The multi-response optimization of the thermal comfort properties of knitted fabrics was performed using principal component analysis (PCA) and the Taguchi signal-to-noise ratio (PCA-S/N ratio) to achieve optimal properties. It was determined that the selected parameters (fabric type, finishing, fibre content and fabric mass per unit area) had a significant effect on the thermal comfort properties of knitted fabrics. The PCA analysis showed that 100% cotton terry fabric before washing with an aerial weight of 220 g/m2 had higher air and water vapor permeability value, but a lower thermal resistance value.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-02-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41415658","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-24DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022094
P. Das, M. D. Roy, S. Ghosh
A hydrophobic surface with an antibacterial property has numerous uses, including self-cleaning, anti-sticking, anti-contamination, sports apparel, and wound healing/implant materials. The durability of the coating in an aquas media (pH 7.4) is a vital requirement for use in technical textile sectors, particularly in medical applications. In this study, we used silica sol, chitosan and hexadecyltrimethoxysilane (HDTMS) to create exceptionally hydrophobic surfaces with antibacterial properties on cotton fabrics. First, cotton fabric was treated with silica sol, which was produced by the hydrolysis and condensation of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) in an alkaline environment. After that, chitosan was applied on the silica sol-treated fabric to add an antibacterial characteristic. The silica sol-chitosan-treated fabric was then given a hydrolysed HDTMS treatment to give a highly hydrophobic property. The hydrophobicity was assessed by measuring the water contact angle, while the AATCC-147 test protocol was used to assess the antibacterial property. The developed fabric exhibited a strong hydrophobic property. The fabric samples were immersed in an aquas media for 30 days to assess the coating durability by observing changes in hydrophobicity and anti-bacterial activity in terms of the zone of inhibition (ZOI). After 30 days of immersion in the aquas media, it was observed that the contact angle decreased from 151.7° to 129.5°, and the ZOI increased from 1 mm to 5 mm, which indicates an increase in anti-bacterial activity in relation to time of immersion. The wicking characteristics of coated and uncoated fabrics were also measured to determine how coating affects the wicking behaviour of fabric. EDS was performed to observe the coating stability for coated-dipped fabric samples after 30 days. SEM analysis was performed to examine the surface morphology, while FTIR was used to determine the surface functional groups after coating and changes after dipping in the aquas media. The developed hydrophobic cotton fabrics with anti-bacterial properties may help in the fabrication of natural biomaterials and other technical textile products.
{"title":"Study on the Hydrophobicity and Antibacterial Activity of Silica Sol-Chitosan-HDTMS Treated Cotton Fabric Dipped in an Aquas Media","authors":"P. Das, M. D. Roy, S. Ghosh","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022094","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022094","url":null,"abstract":"A hydrophobic surface with an antibacterial property has numerous uses, including self-cleaning, anti-sticking, anti-contamination, sports apparel, and wound healing/implant materials. The durability of the coating in an aquas media (pH 7.4) is a vital requirement for use in technical textile sectors, particularly in medical applications. In this study, we used silica sol, chitosan and hexadecyltrimethoxysilane (HDTMS) to create exceptionally hydrophobic surfaces with antibacterial properties on cotton fabrics. First, cotton fabric was treated with silica sol, which was produced by the hydrolysis and condensation of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) in an alkaline environment. After that, chitosan was applied on the silica sol-treated fabric to add an antibacterial characteristic. The silica sol-chitosan-treated fabric was then given a hydrolysed HDTMS treatment to give a highly hydrophobic property. The hydrophobicity was assessed by measuring the water contact angle, while the AATCC-147 test protocol was used to assess the antibacterial property. The developed fabric exhibited a strong hydrophobic property. The fabric samples were immersed in an aquas media for 30 days to assess the coating durability by observing changes in hydrophobicity and anti-bacterial activity in terms of the zone of inhibition (ZOI). After 30 days of immersion in the aquas media, it was observed that the contact angle decreased from 151.7° to 129.5°, and the ZOI increased from 1 mm to 5 mm, which indicates an increase in anti-bacterial activity in relation to time of immersion. The wicking characteristics of coated and uncoated fabrics were also measured to determine how coating affects the wicking behaviour of fabric. EDS was performed to observe the coating stability for coated-dipped fabric samples after 30 days. SEM analysis was performed to examine the surface morphology, while FTIR was used to determine the surface functional groups after coating and changes after dipping in the aquas media. The developed hydrophobic cotton fabrics with anti-bacterial properties may help in the fabrication of natural biomaterials and other technical textile products.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-01-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41955545","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-05DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022092
C. Arikan, Samet Doğan, Deja Muck
3D printing is a well-known technology for producing 3D objects by depositing successive layers of material. Among its many applications, the fashion industry has taken advantage of this technology to revolutionize its brands. Due to the unique properties of textiles, such as comfort, flexibility, etc., attempts have been made to create textile-like structures. Structures with different geometries were designed and printed using different materials ranging from rigid to flexible. In this study, three different basic geometric structures were designed using the Blender program (a free open-source 3D modelling software). Each geometric structure was designed in two different sizes with smaller and larger basic structural elements. In this case, six different models were created. The aim of this study was to compare the textile-like surfaces of different basic geometric shapes produced with 3D printers. It also aimed to investigate the use of surfaces designed with basic geometric shapes in the textile-like material for fashion industries. In the production phase, the fused deposition modelling (FDM) process was chosen, and ABS and TPU materials were used. Various tests were performed, such as weight tests, and tensile and flexural strength tests on models with different basic geometric shapes and sizes. An examination of the test results showed that the different geometric shapes of the various basic structures and the different materials used have an overall effect on the final properties of the structures. It was concluded that the obtained results can be used as a reference and could be helpful for researchers in the use of 3D printers in the textile-like material and fashion material industries.
{"title":"Geometric Structures in Textile Design Made with 3D Printing","authors":"C. Arikan, Samet Doğan, Deja Muck","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022092","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022092","url":null,"abstract":"3D printing is a well-known technology for producing 3D objects by depositing successive layers of material. Among its many applications, the fashion industry has taken advantage of this technology to revolutionize its brands. Due to the unique properties of textiles, such as comfort, flexibility, etc., attempts have been made to create textile-like structures. Structures with different geometries were designed and printed using different materials ranging from rigid to flexible. In this study, three different basic geometric structures were designed using the Blender program (a free open-source 3D modelling software). Each geometric structure was designed in two different sizes with smaller and larger basic structural elements. In this case, six different models were created. The aim of this study was to compare the textile-like surfaces of different basic geometric shapes produced with 3D printers. It also aimed to investigate the use of surfaces designed with basic geometric shapes in the textile-like material for fashion industries. In the production phase, the fused deposition modelling (FDM) process was chosen, and ABS and TPU materials were used. Various tests were performed, such as weight tests, and tensile and flexural strength tests on models with different basic geometric shapes and sizes. An examination of the test results showed that the different geometric shapes of the various basic structures and the different materials used have an overall effect on the final properties of the structures. It was concluded that the obtained results can be used as a reference and could be helpful for researchers in the use of 3D printers in the textile-like material and fashion material industries.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-01-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47125227","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-04DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022062
M. Pervin, Sanjida Sultana, F. Fahmi, Zinia Yasmin, S. Swati
The wet processing industry experiences various problems, such as the faulty and uneven shade of dyeing, colour patch formation on the surface of dyed fabric, etc. during the dyeing and subsequent processing of textile materials. Stripping is considered a process that helps to reuse faulty dyed fabrics by minimizing dyeing faults. The aim of this paper is to evaluate the effectiveness of stripping agents and the quality of stripped cotton knit fabrics that were coloured using bi-functional (monochlorotriazine/vinyl sulphone) reactive dyes. First, the trichromatic combination of Drimarene Yellow CL2R, Drimarene Red CL5B and Drimarene Blue HFRL dyes was used to dye fabrics in two different shade percentages, namely light shade (0.3% owf) and dark shade (3.0% owf). Consequently, stripping was carried out using varying concentrations of stripping chemicals (hydrose (Na2S2O4) and caustic soda (NaOH)) and process temperatures. Stripped fabrics were assessed after measuring the weight loss percentage, strength loss percentage, whiteness index and stripping efficiency. The results of that assessment showed a relatively better stripping performance with the chemical concentration of 5 g/L hydrose and 5 g/L caustic soda at 100 °C. Under this condition, the value of the whiteness index and stripping efficiency were adequate, with a minimum weight loss percentage and strength loss percentage. The stripping performance for the light shade (0.3% owf) fabric was deemed to be better than that for the dark shade (3.0% owf) fabric.
{"title":"Evaluation of the Stripping Performance of Monochlorotriazine/Vinyl Sulphone Reactive Dyes with a Reductive Stripping Agent","authors":"M. Pervin, Sanjida Sultana, F. Fahmi, Zinia Yasmin, S. Swati","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022062","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.65.2022062","url":null,"abstract":"The wet processing industry experiences various problems, such as the faulty and uneven shade of dyeing, colour patch formation on the surface of dyed fabric, etc. during the dyeing and subsequent processing of textile materials. Stripping is considered a process that helps to reuse faulty dyed fabrics by minimizing dyeing faults. The aim of this paper is to evaluate the effectiveness of stripping agents and the quality of stripped cotton knit fabrics that were coloured using bi-functional (monochlorotriazine/vinyl sulphone) reactive dyes. First, the trichromatic combination of Drimarene Yellow CL2R, Drimarene Red CL5B and Drimarene Blue HFRL dyes was used to dye fabrics in two different shade percentages, namely light shade (0.3% owf) and dark shade (3.0% owf). Consequently, stripping was carried out using varying concentrations of stripping chemicals (hydrose (Na2S2O4) and caustic soda (NaOH)) and process temperatures. Stripped fabrics were assessed after measuring the weight loss percentage, strength loss percentage, whiteness index and stripping efficiency. The results of that assessment showed a relatively better stripping performance with the chemical concentration of 5 g/L hydrose and 5 g/L caustic soda at 100 °C. Under this condition, the value of the whiteness index and stripping efficiency were adequate, with a minimum weight loss percentage and strength loss percentage. The stripping performance for the light shade (0.3% owf) fabric was deemed to be better than that for the dark shade (3.0% owf) fabric.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2023-01-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44227195","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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