Pub Date : 2021-12-02DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.338-360
Md. Mazharul Islam, M. Repon, Md. Shohan Parvez, M. Haque, M. Jalil
Every so often, grading is not 100% accurate due to the conventional system for calculating the grading incre¬ment. The aim of this study was to develop a new calculation system of grading increment provided by different software, e.g. Lectra, Gerber, Optitex, Boke CAD etc., and to develop a new mathematical solution that enhances grading precision. For this experiment, three different spec sheets of different buyers were collected, and then combined and drawn to a solitary sketch for both front and back including all points of measures (POM) for a more easy comparison. The solutions for the presence of diagonal and curve measurements were provided with examples using various tools and techniques of different professional garment CAD software. The benefit of the new approach is not only reduced errors of grading but also guaranteed garment fit without distorting style features. However, the drawbacks of the measurement method are complicated and time-consuming. They revolve around the fact that iterative fitting and adjustments are mandatory to improve the fit before bulk production. The study revealed that this new system slightly increases calculation time, whereas the sample approval time for order execution reduces considerably.
{"title":"Factors Affecting Apparel Pattern Grading Accuracy: Existing Software Solutions Comparison and Development of New Solution","authors":"Md. Mazharul Islam, M. Repon, Md. Shohan Parvez, M. Haque, M. Jalil","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.338-360","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.338-360","url":null,"abstract":"Every so often, grading is not 100% accurate due to the conventional system for calculating the grading incre¬ment. The aim of this study was to develop a new calculation system of grading increment provided by different software, e.g. Lectra, Gerber, Optitex, Boke CAD etc., and to develop a new mathematical solution that enhances grading precision. For this experiment, three different spec sheets of different buyers were collected, and then combined and drawn to a solitary sketch for both front and back including all points of measures (POM) for a more easy comparison. The solutions for the presence of diagonal and curve measurements were provided with examples using various tools and techniques of different professional garment CAD software. The benefit of the new approach is not only reduced errors of grading but also guaranteed garment fit without distorting style features. However, the drawbacks of the measurement method are complicated and time-consuming. They revolve around the fact that iterative fitting and adjustments are mandatory to improve the fit before bulk production. The study revealed that this new system slightly increases calculation time, whereas the sample approval time for order execution reduces considerably.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-12-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45527430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-12-02DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.286-297
Aleksandra Mičić, I. Ristić, S. Djordjević, N. Ristic, D. Djordjevic
The removal of textile reactive dye from an aqueous solution on a new adsorbent prepared from waste cotton knitted fabric was investigated in this study. Waste cotton textile, used for the production of adsorbents, is a by-product of the cutting of stacked parts of cotton knitwear planned for the production of women’s T-shirts. The degree of efficiency of a paper pattern determines the amount of collected waste. The qualitative and quantitative characterization of the new adsorbent showed carbon and oxygen to be dominant in the chemical composition. A longer contact time means a greater amount of dye on the adsorbent, i.e. the dye concentration in the solution decreases with the duration of the adsorption process. The percentage of removed dye decreases with an increase in the initial dye concentration in the solution. However, the actual amount of adsorbed dye increases as the initial dye concentration increases. The results for equilibrium adsorption show that the Langmuir isotherm can be used for the interpretation of reactive dye adsorption on a new adsorbent. The pseudo-first order model can be fully used to describe the kinetics of dye adsorption on an adsorbent, with respect to valid results for statistical indicators. Based on the results, it can be concluded that the new adsorbent obtained from waste textiles has the potential to remove textile reactive dye from aqueous solutions.
{"title":"Adsorbent from Textile Waste for Removal of Textile Reactive Dye from Water – Equilibrium Adsorption and Kinetics","authors":"Aleksandra Mičić, I. Ristić, S. Djordjević, N. Ristic, D. Djordjevic","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.286-297","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.286-297","url":null,"abstract":"The removal of textile reactive dye from an aqueous solution on a new adsorbent prepared from waste cotton knitted fabric was investigated in this study. Waste cotton textile, used for the production of adsorbents, is a by-product of the cutting of stacked parts of cotton knitwear planned for the production of women’s T-shirts. The degree of efficiency of a paper pattern determines the amount of collected waste. The qualitative and quantitative characterization of the new adsorbent showed carbon and oxygen to be dominant in the chemical composition. A longer contact time means a greater amount of dye on the adsorbent, i.e. the dye concentration in the solution decreases with the duration of the adsorption process. The percentage of removed dye decreases with an increase in the initial dye concentration in the solution. However, the actual amount of adsorbed dye increases as the initial dye concentration increases. The results for equilibrium adsorption show that the Langmuir isotherm can be used for the interpretation of reactive dye adsorption on a new adsorbent. The pseudo-first order model can be fully used to describe the kinetics of dye adsorption on an adsorbent, with respect to valid results for statistical indicators. Based on the results, it can be concluded that the new adsorbent obtained from waste textiles has the potential to remove textile reactive dye from aqueous solutions.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-12-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44087148","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.188-196
Desalegn Atalie, Gashaw Ashagre
Knitted fabrics are distinguished by their outstanding comfort for clothing and for their rapid mass production. Though cotton knitted fabrics can provide better comfort, their physical appearance and service life are affected by many factors, and they have a propensity for pilling, abrasion and snagging. The main goal of this research work was to investigate the effect of yarn parameters on the abrasion, pilling and snagging resistance of half-bleached knitted fabrics. Six knitted fabrics were manufactured from 100% cotton carded ring yarn with a linear density of 21, 25, and 30 tex, with two yarn twist levels for each linear density. Except for yarn linear density and twist, the remaining yarn and machine parameters were constant, including fabric manufacturing. The knitted fabrics were treated using a half-bleach treatment before property evaluation. The results showed that knitted fabric made from a finer count of 21 tex with a higher yarn twist of 920 m−1 had the highest mass loss ratio of 2.12–10.76%, and the lowest abrasion resistance of 89–97.88% between 5,000 to 20000 abrasion cycles. The highest abrasion resistance of 96.4–98.9% (mass loss ratio of 1–3.5%) was recorded for a single jersey knitted fabric made from coarser yarn (30 tex) with the lower twist of 826 m−1. The abrasion resistance of knitted fabrics was significantly affected by the thickness of the fabric, while regression analysis proved that fabric thickness and mass loss ratio had very good correlation, with an adjusted R2 value of 93.8%. The snagging resistance of knitted fabrics increased as yarn twist and fineness increased. Pilling propensity increased as yarn linear density increased and twist decreased. Linear regression results revealed that yarn linear density and twist were highly correlated to abrasion resistance (mass loss method) at an adjusted R2 value of 98.6% or 0.986 after 20,000 rubs.
{"title":"Performance Properties of Half-bleached Weft Knitted Fabrics Made of 100% Cotton Ring Yarns with Different Parameters","authors":"Desalegn Atalie, Gashaw Ashagre","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.188-196","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.188-196","url":null,"abstract":"Knitted fabrics are distinguished by their outstanding comfort for clothing and for their rapid mass production. Though cotton knitted fabrics can provide better comfort, their physical appearance and service life are affected by many factors, and they have a propensity for pilling, abrasion and snagging. The main goal of this research work was to investigate the effect of yarn parameters on the abrasion, pilling and snagging resistance of half-bleached knitted fabrics. Six knitted fabrics were manufactured from 100% cotton carded ring yarn with a linear density of 21, 25, and 30 tex, with two yarn twist levels for each linear density. Except for yarn linear density and twist, the remaining yarn and machine parameters were constant, including fabric manufacturing. The knitted fabrics were treated using a half-bleach treatment before property evaluation. The results showed that knitted fabric made from a finer count of 21 tex with a higher yarn twist of 920 m−1 had the highest mass loss ratio of 2.12–10.76%, and the lowest abrasion resistance of 89–97.88% between 5,000 to 20000 abrasion cycles. The highest abrasion resistance of 96.4–98.9% (mass loss ratio of 1–3.5%) was recorded for a single jersey knitted fabric made from coarser yarn (30 tex) with the lower twist of 826 m−1. The abrasion resistance of knitted fabrics was significantly affected by the thickness of the fabric, while regression analysis proved that fabric thickness and mass loss ratio had very good correlation, with an adjusted R2 value of 93.8%. The snagging resistance of knitted fabrics increased as yarn twist and fineness increased. Pilling propensity increased as yarn linear density increased and twist decreased. Linear regression results revealed that yarn linear density and twist were highly correlated to abrasion resistance (mass loss method) at an adjusted R2 value of 98.6% or 0.986 after 20,000 rubs.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45876696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.260-271
Marta Stjepić, S. Bračko
Colours are one of the most important factors in everyday life. The exact number of existing colours is not yet fully known. Nevertheless, people are known for having poor colour memory. The ability to remember colours depends both on the characteristics of an individual and the situation in which the colour needs to be recalled. The field of colour memory (perception and memory of unusual colours) has been very poorly researched. The aim of this study was to analyse long-term colour memory for selected associative colours, comparing it with short-term colour memory. The research approach was based on observation, with observers observing for a period of time a particular colour, image, or a descriptively given reference colour. Colour was treated sepa¬rately from associations in the first part, and related to associations in the second and third parts. The first part contained all the reference colours shown independently of associations, the second part contained grayscale images of brands, and the third part comprised descriptively given colours. The result analysis showed that people remember colours very poorly. Observers generally performed better in testing short-term memory. Moreover, the way the template was presented had a noticeable effect on the long-term colour memory. When the image was given in grey, the results were better. The descriptive rendering of reference colours shown did not contribute to better results. The gender of observers did not significantly affect the results.
{"title":"Colour Memory Analysis for Selected Associative Colours","authors":"Marta Stjepić, S. Bračko","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.260-271","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.260-271","url":null,"abstract":"Colours are one of the most important factors in everyday life. The exact number of existing colours is not yet fully known. Nevertheless, people are known for having poor colour memory. The ability to remember colours depends both on the characteristics of an individual and the situation in which the colour needs to be recalled. The field of colour memory (perception and memory of unusual colours) has been very poorly researched. The aim of this study was to analyse long-term colour memory for selected associative colours, comparing it with short-term colour memory. The research approach was based on observation, with observers observing for a period of time a particular colour, image, or a descriptively given reference colour. Colour was treated sepa¬rately from associations in the first part, and related to associations in the second and third parts. The first part contained all the reference colours shown independently of associations, the second part contained grayscale images of brands, and the third part comprised descriptively given colours. The result analysis showed that people remember colours very poorly. Observers generally performed better in testing short-term memory. Moreover, the way the template was presented had a noticeable effect on the long-term colour memory. When the image was given in grey, the results were better. The descriptive rendering of reference colours shown did not contribute to better results. The gender of observers did not significantly affect the results.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41720681","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.206-220
S. Kumer, G. Radonjič
The textile industry is often criticized for its enormous negative impact on the environment and non-human work¬ing conditions, especially in third-world countries. One of the goals of sustainability measures is the transparency of communications regarding environmental impacts and the policy measures of companies. So-called sustainability reports have become one of the most popular ways to communicate with stakeholders regarding the sustainability efforts of companies. In this paper, we analysed the content of the sustainability reports of textile industry and apparel companies with an emphasis on environmental criteria. We focused on the number of environmental criteria and ana-lysed the measures taken in a given period. The results revealed that, in all cases, more detailed information regarding the carbon and water footprint were reported every year. In general, companies reported the most about measures taken in the production and raw material extraction phases, and the least about the consumption stage. However, mostly positive information about environmental aspects were included in the analysed sustainability reports. Failures regarding sustainable development programmes were rarely mentioned.
{"title":"Analysis of Environmental Criteria in Sustainability Reports of Companies in the Textile and Apparel Sector","authors":"S. Kumer, G. Radonjič","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.206-220","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.206-220","url":null,"abstract":"The textile industry is often criticized for its enormous negative impact on the environment and non-human work¬ing conditions, especially in third-world countries. One of the goals of sustainability measures is the transparency of communications regarding environmental impacts and the policy measures of companies. So-called sustainability reports have become one of the most popular ways to communicate with stakeholders regarding the sustainability efforts of companies. In this paper, we analysed the content of the sustainability reports of textile industry and apparel companies with an emphasis on environmental criteria. We focused on the number of environmental criteria and ana-lysed the measures taken in a given period. The results revealed that, in all cases, more detailed information regarding the carbon and water footprint were reported every year. In general, companies reported the most about measures taken in the production and raw material extraction phases, and the least about the consumption stage. However, mostly positive information about environmental aspects were included in the analysed sustainability reports. Failures regarding sustainable development programmes were rarely mentioned.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46051647","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.230-246
A. M. Rahman, S. Alimuzzaman, R. Khan
In this study, biocomposites were fabricated through a compression moulding technique that used untreated and grafted pineapple leaf fibre separately with polylactic acid (PLA) as a matrix. For grafting, pineapple leaf fibre (PALF) was chemically modified using two different monomers, i.e. 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) and methyl methacrylate (MMA) solutions, in the presence of methanol (MeOH) and photoinitiator (Darocur-1664) under ultraviolet (UV) radiation with the aim of improving thermo-mechanical characteristics. Based on grafting efficiency and mechanical attributes, the intensity of UV radiation and monomer concentration were maxi¬mized. A series of solutions, created by varying the concentrations (10–60%) of monomers in MeOH along with 2% photoinitiator, were prepared. Experimental results revealed that composites made of PALF grafted with 30% HEMA at the 15th pass and 40% MMA at the 20th pass of UV radiation achieved the optimum mechanical properties compared with an untreated PALF/PLA composite. The optimized solutions were further enhanced by adding various concentrations (0.5–1.5%) of urea, with the best mechanical features achieved using a 1% concentration of urea. The chemical bonds formed due to photografting were viewed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Degradation behaviour under heat was determined through thermogravimetric analysis, which found that photografted PALF/PLA showed significantly better thermal stability than the un¬treated composite sample. A water uptake test showed that grafting reduced the water retention capacity of the treated composite significantly. Crystallization characteristics were inspected using a differential scanning calorimeter, which showed that grafted PALF had a substantial effect on the degree of crystallization of PLA. In addition, scanning electron microscopy was used to monitor the interfacial bond, and revealed that interfacial adhesion was enhanced by the incorporation of photografted PALF into the matrix.
{"title":"Performance Evaluation of PLA Based Biocomposites Reinforced with Photografted PALF","authors":"A. M. Rahman, S. Alimuzzaman, R. Khan","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.230-246","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.230-246","url":null,"abstract":"In this study, biocomposites were fabricated through a compression moulding technique that used untreated and grafted pineapple leaf fibre separately with polylactic acid (PLA) as a matrix. For grafting, pineapple leaf fibre (PALF) was chemically modified using two different monomers, i.e. 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) and methyl methacrylate (MMA) solutions, in the presence of methanol (MeOH) and photoinitiator (Darocur-1664) under ultraviolet (UV) radiation with the aim of improving thermo-mechanical characteristics. Based on grafting efficiency and mechanical attributes, the intensity of UV radiation and monomer concentration were maxi¬mized. A series of solutions, created by varying the concentrations (10–60%) of monomers in MeOH along with 2% photoinitiator, were prepared. Experimental results revealed that composites made of PALF grafted with 30% HEMA at the 15th pass and 40% MMA at the 20th pass of UV radiation achieved the optimum mechanical properties compared with an untreated PALF/PLA composite. The optimized solutions were further enhanced by adding various concentrations (0.5–1.5%) of urea, with the best mechanical features achieved using a 1% concentration of urea. The chemical bonds formed due to photografting were viewed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Degradation behaviour under heat was determined through thermogravimetric analysis, which found that photografted PALF/PLA showed significantly better thermal stability than the un¬treated composite sample. A water uptake test showed that grafting reduced the water retention capacity of the treated composite significantly. Crystallization characteristics were inspected using a differential scanning calorimeter, which showed that grafted PALF had a substantial effect on the degree of crystallization of PLA. In addition, scanning electron microscopy was used to monitor the interfacial bond, and revealed that interfacial adhesion was enhanced by the incorporation of photografted PALF into the matrix.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41767860","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.247-259
Mustafijur Rahman, M. Uddin, Md. Moynul Hassan Shibly, Nusrat Hossain, Mohammad Forhad Hossain, M. Rigout
Halochromism or pH sensitivity has tremendous potential for applications in various textile fields, such as protective clothing, wound dressings, etc. Reactive dye is mostly used to colour cotton or other regenerated cellulose fibres due to its better fastness and wide range of hue, from vivid to dull shades. In this research work, an azo-based dichlorotriazine reactive dye was synthesised from H-acid (4-amino-5-hydroxy-2,7-naphthalen¬edisulfonic acid) and 4-nitroaniline, which incorporates a halochromic behaviour. The change of colour of this dye was evaluated both in the the solution stage and coloured fabric stage in various pH solutions. A visible change of colour with the alteration of pH was observed after dyeing textile fabric with the synthesised dye. However, a significant difference was observed in a few cases with regard to the change of colour with the alteration of pH in the solution stage and coloured fabric stage. The dyed fabric also displayed very good to excellent wash fastness properties. Generally, the reactive dye synthesised in this research demonstrated an obvious change of colour with the alteration of the pH level.
{"title":"Synthesis and Characterisation of Azo-Based Dichlorotriazine Reactive Dye with Halochromic Behaviour","authors":"Mustafijur Rahman, M. Uddin, Md. Moynul Hassan Shibly, Nusrat Hossain, Mohammad Forhad Hossain, M. Rigout","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.247-259","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.247-259","url":null,"abstract":"Halochromism or pH sensitivity has tremendous potential for applications in various textile fields, such as protective clothing, wound dressings, etc. Reactive dye is mostly used to colour cotton or other regenerated cellulose fibres due to its better fastness and wide range of hue, from vivid to dull shades. In this research work, an azo-based dichlorotriazine reactive dye was synthesised from H-acid (4-amino-5-hydroxy-2,7-naphthalen¬edisulfonic acid) and 4-nitroaniline, which incorporates a halochromic behaviour. The change of colour of this dye was evaluated both in the the solution stage and coloured fabric stage in various pH solutions. A visible change of colour with the alteration of pH was observed after dyeing textile fabric with the synthesised dye. However, a significant difference was observed in a few cases with regard to the change of colour with the alteration of pH in the solution stage and coloured fabric stage. The dyed fabric also displayed very good to excellent wash fastness properties. Generally, the reactive dye synthesised in this research demonstrated an obvious change of colour with the alteration of the pH level.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47967199","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.221-229
G. Lavrič, I. Karlovits, Deja Muck, Eva Petra Forte Tavčer, U. Kavčič
Digital printing techniques are increasingly present in the field of textile printing. Particularly prominent is the inkjet printing technique using water-based inks, while UV LED inkjet printing also increasingly being in use. UV LED inkjet is primarily not intended for direct clothing printing; however, it can be used especially as a hybrid solution in the soft signage market. It is a great option for the printers that are not engaged only in textile print¬ing, and want a more versatile print portfolio, extending it to non-clothing textile products, e.g. soft signage and non-wearable products. As these types of products often require colour reproduction of logos, accurate colour reproduction, good ink adhesion and sharpness are important just like in other printing technologies. In order to evaluate the impact of UV LED radiation amount on colour differences, ink bleeding and abrasion resistance, six different fabric samples (five woven and one nonwoven) were printed using a UV LED inkjet printer. Based on the results of colour difference, it was established that a reduction of UV radiation (by half the manufacturer’s recommended amount) had no effect on this parameter. However, perceptible colour differences were observed with the use of different M measurement conditions defined by the international standard ISO 13655-2017. Reducing the amount of UV radiation had no effect on the adhesion and durability of the printed ink. Small differences detected in these two parameters were mainly a consequence of the properties of textile materials and not of decreased UV radiation.
{"title":"Influence of Ink Curing in UV LED Inkjet Printing on Colour Differences, Ink Bleeding and Abrasion Resistance of Prints on Textile","authors":"G. Lavrič, I. Karlovits, Deja Muck, Eva Petra Forte Tavčer, U. Kavčič","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.221-229","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.221-229","url":null,"abstract":"Digital printing techniques are increasingly present in the field of textile printing. Particularly prominent is the inkjet printing technique using water-based inks, while UV LED inkjet printing also increasingly being in use. UV LED inkjet is primarily not intended for direct clothing printing; however, it can be used especially as a hybrid solution in the soft signage market. It is a great option for the printers that are not engaged only in textile print¬ing, and want a more versatile print portfolio, extending it to non-clothing textile products, e.g. soft signage and non-wearable products. As these types of products often require colour reproduction of logos, accurate colour reproduction, good ink adhesion and sharpness are important just like in other printing technologies. In order to evaluate the impact of UV LED radiation amount on colour differences, ink bleeding and abrasion resistance, six different fabric samples (five woven and one nonwoven) were printed using a UV LED inkjet printer. Based on the results of colour difference, it was established that a reduction of UV radiation (by half the manufacturer’s recommended amount) had no effect on this parameter. However, perceptible colour differences were observed with the use of different M measurement conditions defined by the international standard ISO 13655-2017. Reducing the amount of UV radiation had no effect on the adhesion and durability of the printed ink. Small differences detected in these two parameters were mainly a consequence of the properties of textile materials and not of decreased UV radiation.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41341412","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-10-26DOI: 10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.197-205
Xinfeng Yan, Sh. A. Madjidov, Habiba Halepoto
This article is devoted to questions regarding the analysis of the implementation of logistics and supply chain management conditions in textile production. Based on delivery optimisation, the authors offer a model of multimodal transportation of textile products produced in Uzbekistan. The importance of optimising the supply chain of the logistics business processes in order to decrease costs is demonstrated in this article. A mathemat¬ical model of optimisation for placement textile enterprises to stimulate the reduction of supply chain costs is recommended. However, this research would be beneficial for the textile and fashion industries. The approach might be further extended to other similar industries.
{"title":"Optimisation in the Logistics and Management of Supply Chains in Production by Textile Enterprises","authors":"Xinfeng Yan, Sh. A. Madjidov, Habiba Halepoto","doi":"10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.197-205","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec2021.64.197-205","url":null,"abstract":"This article is devoted to questions regarding the analysis of the implementation of logistics and supply chain management conditions in textile production. Based on delivery optimisation, the authors offer a model of multimodal transportation of textile products produced in Uzbekistan. The importance of optimising the supply chain of the logistics business processes in order to decrease costs is demonstrated in this article. A mathemat¬ical model of optimisation for placement textile enterprises to stimulate the reduction of supply chain costs is recommended. However, this research would be beneficial for the textile and fashion industries. The approach might be further extended to other similar industries.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43028351","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-03-27DOI: 10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.119-135
Ismail Hossain, Md. Hasib Uddin, A. Hossain, M. Jalil, Z. Uddin
The application of cross-linking resin is an effective method for improving and controlling dimensional sta¬bility, such as the shrinkage of viscose single jersey knits. However, such treatment often leads to a significant deterioration in the bursting strength of treated fabrics. In this regard, resin treatment using a softening agent can be an additional potential solution for retaining the bursting strength of treated fabrics. Resin treatment is one kind of chemical finishing process that inhibits cellulosic textile fibre swelling during wetting, provides fibre resistance to deformation and prevents shrinkage. The key objective of this study was to model the effect of resin-finishing process variables for predicting the shrinkage control and bursting strength of viscose single jersey knitted fabrics. The MATLAB (Version 8.2.0.701) fuzzy expert system was used to model the optimum resin and softener concentrations, as well as the best curing time for the prediction of maximum shrinkage control with a minimum loss in fabric bursting strength. The optimal process variables were found to be a resin concentration of 75 g/l, a softener concentration of 45 g/l and a curing time of 225 seconds. The fuzzy expert model developed in this study was validated using experimental data. It was found that the model has the ability and accuracy to predict fabric shrinkage and bursting strength effectively in the non-linear field.
{"title":"Modelling the Effect of Resin-Finishing Process Variables on the Dimensional Stability and Bursting Strength of Viscose Plain Knitted Fabric Using a Fuzzy Expert System","authors":"Ismail Hossain, Md. Hasib Uddin, A. Hossain, M. Jalil, Z. Uddin","doi":"10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.119-135","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14502/TEKSTILEC2021.64.119-135","url":null,"abstract":"The application of cross-linking resin is an effective method for improving and controlling dimensional sta¬bility, such as the shrinkage of viscose single jersey knits. However, such treatment often leads to a significant deterioration in the bursting strength of treated fabrics. In this regard, resin treatment using a softening agent can be an additional potential solution for retaining the bursting strength of treated fabrics. Resin treatment is one kind of chemical finishing process that inhibits cellulosic textile fibre swelling during wetting, provides fibre resistance to deformation and prevents shrinkage. The key objective of this study was to model the effect of resin-finishing process variables for predicting the shrinkage control and bursting strength of viscose single jersey knitted fabrics. The MATLAB (Version 8.2.0.701) fuzzy expert system was used to model the optimum resin and softener concentrations, as well as the best curing time for the prediction of maximum shrinkage control with a minimum loss in fabric bursting strength. The optimal process variables were found to be a resin concentration of 75 g/l, a softener concentration of 45 g/l and a curing time of 225 seconds. The fuzzy expert model developed in this study was validated using experimental data. It was found that the model has the ability and accuracy to predict fabric shrinkage and bursting strength effectively in the non-linear field.","PeriodicalId":22555,"journal":{"name":"TEKSTILEC","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2021-03-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47846379","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}