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Different aspects of fashion 时尚的不同方面
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2204048e
J. Efremov, Marija Kertakova, Kuzmanovska Dimitrijeva
Fashion and clothing are not nearly identical phenomena. But clothing represents the most significant area, through which fashion actually appears. Considering that, the suit represents the external self-shaping of man, so that suit is an expression of that's how that person would like it to look. More specifically, the suit in a way, is an expression of human self-knowledge and his understanding of himself. Therefore, this includes the space in which that fashion is quite pronounced. The clothes themselves are simple, short-lived and fleeting, in fact as fashion itself is. The main characteristic of fashion is that, it can suddenly impose and accept a certain new rule or norm, i.e. to impose and accept something that in the past was only an exception or a certain character thread. This is what fashion does, to be able later in time, to leave that exception or that unique characteristic thread that it had, because over time that uniqueness has become something that is ordinary and everyday, or has become something that everyone can afford. The first major explanation of fashion, relates fashion to a modern society with a system of open layers, where the elite tends to stand out and rise above the rest of the people, thereby launching exclusive ways and behavior patterns. In order to symbolically equate with them, members of the the lower layers accept that style as a rule of their own behavior.
时尚和服装并不是完全相同的现象。但服装代表了最重要的领域,时尚实际上是通过它出现的。考虑到这一点,西装代表了人的外在自我塑造,所以西装表达了这个人想要的样子。更具体地说,这套衣服在某种程度上表达了人类的自我认识和对自己的理解。因此,这包括了这种时尚非常明显的空间。衣服本身简单、短暂、转瞬即逝,事实上就像时尚本身一样。时尚的主要特点是,它可以突然强加和接受某种新的规则或规范,即强加和接受过去只是一个例外或某种性格线索的东西。这就是时尚所做的,能够在以后的时间里,留下那个例外或独特的特征线,因为随着时间的推移,这种独特性已经成为普通和日常的东西,或者已经成为每个人都能负担得起的东西。对时尚的第一个主要解释是,将时尚与现代社会联系起来,现代社会有一个开放的阶层体系,精英倾向于脱颖而出,超越其他人,从而推出独特的方式和行为模式。为了象征性地与他们等同,下层的成员接受这种风格作为他们自己的行为准则。
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引用次数: 1
Methodology for determining the quantity of textile waste from the cutting process 测定裁剪过程中纺织废料数量的方法学
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2201029m
S. Maksimov, Sonja Jordeva, Silvana Zhezhova, Kiro Mojsov, A. Janevski
The generation of textile waste primarily depends on the volume of clothing production. This waste contributes significantly to the environmental problems because the research shows that in North Macedonia the textile waste management comes down to its disposal in landfills. The analysis of the quantities of textile waste is a necessary precondition for any further initiative for its efficient management, but such a detailed analysis does not exist yet. The aim of this paper is to design a new methodology for determining the amount of textile waste generated from the cutting process. The examination of the practical use of methodology was done in 3 different companies. The results showed that using this methodology, it quickly and easily calculates the amount of waste generated from the cutting process.
纺织废料的产生主要取决于服装生产的数量。这种废物对环境问题的影响很大,因为研究表明,在北马其顿,纺织废物的管理归结为在垃圾填埋场的处置。分析纺织废料的数量是进一步有效管理纺织废料的必要前提,但目前还没有这样详细的分析。本文的目的是设计一种新的方法来确定裁剪过程中产生的纺织废料的数量。在3家不同的公司中对方法的实际应用进行了检验。结果表明,使用该方法可以快速、方便地计算出切削过程中产生的废料量。
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引用次数: 0
Overcoming the difficulties caused by the COVID-19 pandemic by using adapted marketing logistics in the "Zara" company “Zara”公司利用适应性营销物流克服新冠疫情带来的困难
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2204063j
Marin Jovanovic
The COVID-19 pandemic has changed the way people live on the planet. The global economy suffered the biggest blow. The fashion industry has been forced to implement significant changes in their value chains. The subject of the research carried out in this work is to look at the specifics of marketing logistics activities that companies operating in the fashion industry were forced to implement in order to adapt to the business conditions that arose as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. The aim of the work is to point out the most important specifics of marketing logistics in the fashion industry in the conditions of the COVID-19 pandemic, using the example of the Zara company, which effectively and quickly implemented numerous adjustments, which enabled it to reduce the negative impact of the crisis event.
新冠肺炎大流行改变了人们在地球上的生活方式。全球经济遭受的打击最大。时尚产业被迫在其价值链中实施重大变革。在这项工作中进行的研究的主题是研究在时尚行业经营的公司被迫实施的营销物流活动的细节,以适应因COVID-19大流行而产生的商业条件。这项工作的目的是指出在COVID-19大流行的情况下,时尚行业营销物流最重要的细节,以Zara公司为例,该公司有效、快速地实施了许多调整,使其能够减少危机事件的负面影响。
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引用次数: 0
Modern art and stage costume: The case of Dragilev's Ballets Russes 现代艺术与舞台服装:以德拉吉列夫的俄罗斯芭蕾舞团为例
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2202040f
Dragana Frfulanović, Aleksandra Jevtović, Milena Savić
Sergei Dragilev recognized the vitality of modern art that brought freshness to the culture, so all innovative artists of the time were invited to join his campaign and goal. And he reflected on the fact that ballet breaks the shackles of the traditional concept in the performance of dance, music, costume design, and scenography and imposes an element of challenge by introducing current contemporary tendencies in art and culture. All the famous names of the art of that time brought the latest achievements of modern art into the world of dance: Pablo Picasso, Natalia Goncharova, Henri Matisse, and Giorgio de Chirico. And with them, the design of scenography and costume design took the form of cubism, fauvism, futurism, surrealism, and other avant-garde movements, while refreshing the themes, which overall influenced ballet to become part of popular culture.
谢尔盖·德拉吉列夫认识到现代艺术的活力给文化带来了新鲜感,所以当时所有创新的艺术家都被邀请加入他的运动和目标。他认为,芭蕾在舞蹈、音乐、服装设计、舞台设计等表演上,打破了传统观念的束缚,引入了艺术文化的当代趋势,并赋予了挑战的元素。当时所有的艺术名人都把现代艺术的最新成就带入了舞蹈世界:巴勃罗·毕加索、纳塔莉亚·贡恰洛娃、亨利·马蒂斯和乔治·德·基里科。随着他们的出现,舞台设计和服装设计采取了立体主义、野兽派、未来主义、超现实主义等前卫运动的形式,同时刷新了主题,整体上影响了芭蕾舞成为流行文化的一部分。
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引用次数: 0
Sustainability in fashion: The role of a fashion designer in shaping a future that is ecologically acceptable and socially responsible 时尚的可持续性:时尚设计师在塑造生态可接受和对社会负责的未来中的作用
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2201012j
Sonja Jocić
In this paper the relationship between the current global crisis of environmental protection, the modern vision of sustainability in fashion and the creative process of realization of clothing items in the fashion industry is investigated from the aspect of fashion design. The fashion industry is expected to change the way garments are produced and designed, the way it communicates with consumers, and the way garments are handled at the end of a product's lifespan. In addition to all the usual aspects of creativity, a fashion designer nowadays and especially in the future is expected, to have an additional sort of creativity that should contribute to sustainable development by seeking and developing new creative-experimental design solutions. Different strategies are available to a designer for achieving this goal. In the process of creating a product that has aesthetic and functional values on the market and at the same time the least possible environmental impact on the planet a designer is a key factor of the fashion industry.
本文从服装设计的角度出发,研究了当前全球环境保护危机、时尚可持续发展的现代愿景与时尚产业中服装项目的创意实现过程之间的关系。时尚行业有望改变服装的生产和设计方式,与消费者沟通的方式,以及在产品寿命结束时处理服装的方式。除了所有通常的创造力之外,现在的时装设计师,尤其是未来的时装设计师,被期望具有额外的创造力,通过寻求和开发新的创造性实验设计解决方案,为可持续发展做出贡献。设计师可以使用不同的策略来实现这一目标。在创造一个在市场上具有美学和功能价值的产品的过程中,同时对地球的环境影响最小,设计师是时尚产业的关键因素。
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引用次数: 0
Information systems in small and medium-sized enterprises of the textile and clothing industry 纺织服装行业中小企业信息系统
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2203016d
D. Dimitrijević, Ž. Adamović
Market uncertainty and financial instability in the era of global competition force companies to work faster and increase productivity and business efficiency with continuous cost reduction and qualitative efficiency, which serves as a basis for strengthening the competitiveness and sustainable development of all, including SMEs -small and medium-sized enterprises of the textile and clothing industry. Various innovative contents and adequate technological solutions, as well as reengineering of business/production processes, with massive and adequate implementation of technical-technological innovations based on information and communication technologies -ICT and flexible automation, i.e. on the direct and efficient implementation sector defined information systems, also represent possible elements of functional competitiveness and sustainable development. Otherwise, changes in the environment and ways of doing business of companies require a better understanding and integration of data, as well as their more efficient exploitation in the functioning and development of the company, which imposes the need for permanent generation, adaptation and development of quality and efficient information systems. As a result of such requirements, the responses of industrial production through the implementation of technical-technological innovations are inevitable, whereby quality and efficient ICT infrastructure, coherence of innovative technologies and flexible production, as well as compatibility and complementarity of production and business information systems, are necessary elements and indicators of efficiency and quality. The implementation, efficient exploitation, as well as the development of various business and production information systems, obviously has its benefits, presented through more efficient, better quality and faster operations, but also disadvantages, because it is obviously conditioned by the stochastic laws of the global market, the variable human factor or the lack of high-quality, highly educated professionals staff, requirements for high initial investments, but also the specifics of the textile/clothing industry and SMEs, as well as the incompatibility of the implemented production and business systems.
在全球竞争时代,市场的不确定性和金融的不稳定性迫使企业加快工作速度,通过不断降低成本和提高质量效率来提高生产率和经营效率,这是增强竞争力和可持续发展的基础,包括纺织服装行业的中小企业。各种创新内容和适当的技术解决方案,以及业务/生产流程的再造,以及基于信息和通信技术(ict)和灵活自动化(即直接和有效地实施部门定义的信息系统)大规模和充分地实施技术创新,也可能是功能竞争力和可持续发展的要素。否则,环境和公司经营方式的变化需要更好地理解和整合数据,以及在公司的运作和发展中更有效地利用数据,这就要求永久性地生成、适应和开发高质量和高效的信息系统。由于这些要求,工业生产通过实施技术-技术革新的反应是不可避免的,因此高质量和高效率的信通技术基础设施、创新技术的一致性和灵活的生产、以及生产和商业信息系统的兼容性和互补性是效率和质量的必要因素和指标。实施、高效开发以及开发各种商业和生产信息系统,显然有其好处,通过更高效、更好的质量和更快的操作来呈现,但也有缺点,因为它显然受到全球市场随机规律、可变的人为因素或缺乏高素质、高学历的专业人员、高初始投资要求、还有纺织/服装行业和中小企业的具体情况,以及所实施的生产经营制度的不兼容性。
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引用次数: 0
Grey level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM) for textile print analysis 灰度共生矩阵(GLCM)用于纺织品印花分析
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2204034t
Emilija Toshikj, Bojan Prangoski
Print mottle is a print defect. This print defect has great attention in print quality assessment. Print mottle is determined by the grey level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM). An important parameter in the GLCM processing is the direction angle of pixels in the digitalized print image. This research aimed to investigate the influence of the direction angle, which is an important input parameter in GLCM processing, on the output parameters, such as entropy, energy, contrast, correlation, and homogeneity. Hence, prints were generated in four different colors (cyan, magenta, yellow and black) on white polyester elastase fabric by sublimation printing. The non-uniformity of the print for each color was processed at different direction angles, such as 0° (horizontal), 90° (vertical), 45° (right-diagonal), and 135° (left-diagonal). Values for GLCM parameters obtained at different direction angles were slightly different regardless of print color. The choice of direction angle influenced the values of GLCM parameters. The average of all four directional angle values obtained for each GLCM parameter was taken. The GLCM processing method can be used for prints of different colors, patterns, and different quality levels to evaluate their print uniformity.
印花斑驳是一种印花缺陷。这种印刷缺陷在印刷品质量评价中备受关注。印刷品斑纹是由灰度共生矩阵(GLCM)来确定的。GLCM处理中的一个重要参数是数字打印图像中像素的方向角。本研究旨在研究方向角作为GLCM处理的重要输入参数对输出参数熵、能量、对比度、相关性和均匀性的影响。因此,通过升华印花,在白色聚酯弹性织物上产生了四种不同颜色(青色、品红、黄色和黑色)的印花。每种颜色的非均匀性在不同的方向角度进行处理,如0°(水平)、90°(垂直)、45°(右对角线)和135°(左对角线)。在不同的方向角度下得到的GLCM参数值略有不同,而与打印颜色无关。方向角的选择影响GLCM参数的取值。取每个GLCM参数得到的所有四个方向角值的平均值。GLCM处理方法可用于不同颜色、图案和不同质量水平的印刷品,以评估其印刷品的均匀性。
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引用次数: 0
Intelligent textiles and sports clothing 智能纺织品和运动服装
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2203044s
K. Savic, O. Stojanović, Marija Savić-Pojužina, J. Simeunović
Special purpose fibers were found only in the middle of the last century and since then the possibility of their application has been studied. These fibers are used in the production of clothing that requires specific protective functions such as: protection against fi re and heat, ballistic protection, protection against various types of radiation, protection against nuclear, biological and chemical effects, sportswear etc...The new generation of textiles, intelligent textiles, no longer serves only as protection, but it can receive and recognize stimuli from the environment and respond to them.
特殊用途纤维直到上个世纪中叶才被发现,从那时起,人们一直在研究其应用的可能性。这些纤维用于生产需要特定防护功能的服装,例如:防火和隔热、防弹道、防各种辐射、防核、生物和化学效应、运动服等……新一代的纺织品——智能纺织品,不再仅仅起到保护的作用,它可以接收和识别来自环境的刺激并做出反应。
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引用次数: 0
Chain type hand stitch imitation machines for men suit manufacturing 男套装制造用链式手针仿造机
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2203052n
Ineta Nemeša
Machines of chainstitches 104 create imitation of hand stitches 209 from one material side. Every hand stitch is formed from two threads, therefore the seams are more accented and very short length pick stitches are larger than created seams from real hand stitches 209. The length of the hand stitches is determined by the distance between a sewing needle and a hook needle of the machine. To create different length hand stitches a gauge set of the machine has to be changed. Because of different appearance of the stitches on top and bottom fabric surfaces the machines are used for top stitching of seams which are seen on a ready garment from one side only. In men suit manufacturing there are: top stitching of a jacket's lining, top stitching on pockets, fronts, etc. of jackets, vests, trousers. There are also available chainstitch 104 machines which create different variations of the hand stitches: double row hand stitches, parallel hand stitches, angular hand stitches. Comparing with the machines of real hand stitches 209, the machines of chainstitches 104 are much lower priced and have much higher productivity .
链针104的机器从材料的一侧模仿手针209。每一条手工线都是由两条线组成,因此接缝更加突出,非常短的挑针比真正的手工线缝大。手针的长度是由缝纫机的缝纫针和钩针之间的距离决定的。为了创造不同长度的手针,必须改变机器的一套量规。由于上下面料表面的缝线外观不同,因此机器用于只从一侧看到成衣上的接缝的顶部缝线。在男士西装制造中,有:夹克衬里的上钉,夹克、背心、裤子的口袋、前襟等的上钉。也有可用的链针104机器,创造不同的手针:双排手针,平行手针,角手针。与真手针209相比,链针104的价格要低得多,生产率也高得多。
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引用次数: 0
Hand stitch sewing machines for men suit manufacturing 男套装制造用手缝缝纫机
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2201037n
Ineta Nemeša
Hand stitches seams along edges of lapels, collars and pocket flaps on a men jacket help to fix canvas interlining under face fabric, keep the edges flat and prevent them from rolling or curling. Traditionally hand stitches seams also indicate high quality of the suit. Real hand stitch machines imitate had stitch 209. Depending on the length of the top and bottom stitch parts the machines can create pick stitches, saddle stitches and other stitch patterns. One group of the machines create stitches by help of a hooked needle, other machines use a double pointed needle. The machines work with limited length threads, most often with 90 cm and 120 cm long ones. The hand stitch seams can to be sewn with special waxed silk threads or regular threads. To increase work productivity and quality the machines use manual or auto thread trimming devices, reverse stitch function, half stitch option, seam beginning and end securing, programmable stitch type, sewing speed, stitch length, thread trimming time.
男士夹克翻领、衣领和口袋边的手缝线缝有助于将帆布衬布固定在面料下面,保持边缘平整,防止它们滚动或卷曲。传统上手缝线缝也表明西装的高质量。真正的手缝机模仿有针209。根据顶部和底部缝合部分的长度,机器可以创建挑针,鞍针和其他缝合模式。一组机器通过钩针来缝纫,其他机器使用双尖针。这些机器使用有限长度的线,最常见的是90厘米和120厘米长的线。手缝缝可以用特殊的打蜡丝线或普通线缝制。为了提高工作效率和质量,机器使用手动或自动修线装置,反迹功能,半迹选项,接缝开始和结束固定,可编程线迹类型,缝纫速度,线迹长度,修线时间。
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引用次数: 0
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Tekstilna industrija
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