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Sustainability in fashion: Past creativity as an inspiration for the future 时尚的可持续性:将过去的创意作为未来的灵感
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2202028j
Sonja Jocić
Even before the emergence of the fashion sustainability movement, some European and Japanese fashion designers were active in inventing new creative principles. Key examples of such designers are: Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. They have created a completely new, different and personal style in fashion, as a consequence of exceptional aesthetic creativity. With their ingenious creativity and by pushing the boundaries in fashion design and artistic creation, they managed to create a basis for the development of modern sustainable fashion. Among the creative-experimental solutions available to a fashion designer as a strategy for sustainable fashion design, the creation of clothes without fabric waste ("zero-waste") stands out. The inspiration for such a creative-experimental design solution can be found in methods and techniques of traditional Japanese paper folding skills - origami, as well as in traditional Japanese costume - kimono. The introduction of this concept into fashion provides an opportunity not only to reshape the relation between body and clothing, but also has the potential to create clothing design based on sustainability and a new universality in the twenty-first century. Nevertheless, following the approach of famous designers, it can be seen that for success in sustainable fashion design is necessary to master the fundamentals of traditional and sometimes forgotten craftmanship, which could surely lead to further progress by upgrading one's own ideas.
甚至在时尚可持续发展运动出现之前,一些欧洲和日本的时装设计师就在积极地发明新的创意原则。这类设计师的典型代表有:Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto和Issey Miyake。他们创造了一种全新的、不同的、个人的时尚风格,这是他们独特的审美创造力的结果。他们凭借自己独到的创意,不断突破服装设计和艺术创作的界限,为现代可持续时尚的发展奠定了基础。作为可持续时装设计的策略,在时装设计师可用的创造性实验解决方案中,创造没有织物浪费的服装(“零浪费”)脱颖而出。这种创造性的实验性设计方案的灵感可以从日本传统的折纸技巧(折纸)和日本传统服装(和服)的方法和技术中找到。将这一概念引入时尚,不仅为重塑身体与服装之间的关系提供了机会,而且有可能在21世纪创造基于可持续性和新普遍性的服装设计。然而,跟随著名设计师的做法,我们可以看到,要想在可持续的服装设计中取得成功,必须掌握传统的、有时被遗忘的工艺的基础,这肯定会通过提升自己的思想而进一步进步。
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引用次数: 0
Visual merchandising and new ways of communication 视觉营销和新的沟通方式
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2103037n
J. Nikolić
In the newly created unusual circumstances, what follows is a transformation of three principles of a visual merchandising from real to virtual experience of visual, tactile (emotional) perception of the customer, balanced offer and freedom of choices. Finding and adopting new methods of visual merchandising and models of communication aim to, globally, give fashion brands efficient and fast access to each individual and can enter into a virtual dialogic form with them, providing virtual vision, tactility and emotion so that the potential buyer would be an active participant and make a certain choice.
在新创造的不同寻常的环境中,接下来是视觉营销的三个原则的转变,从视觉体验到虚拟体验,顾客的触觉(情感)感知,平衡的报价和自由的选择。寻找和采用新的视觉营销方法和传播模式,目的是在全球范围内,让时尚品牌能够高效、快速地接触到每一个人,并与他们进入虚拟的对话形式,提供虚拟的视觉、触觉和情感,让潜在买家积极参与,做出一定的选择。
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引用次数: 0
Surveying consumer acceptance of textile products with fragrance finish: A detailed review 消费者对纺织产品香味整理的接受度调查:详细回顾
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104037k
Astuti Khan, G. Kumar
Fragrance finishing of textiles is an area with untapped potential which has been growing at an enormous rate. The use of scents to change moods, evoke emotions and stimulate certain senses has been there for ages. Building up from that, textiles have started being infused with scents and used in domestic and industrial application. The purpose of this research is to cover all aspects of fragrance finishing. The literature review covers extensive topics like the basic concept of aromatherapy, needs of fragrance finishing, application methods and our current market scenario. The latter part of this study deals with a survey that sheds light on the research gap identified as lack of market awareness and acceptance. Chi-square was the statistical tool used for relating factors like gender, age group and income group to buying behaviour of people when it comes to fragrance finished textile products.
纺织品的香味整理是一个潜力尚未开发的领域,目前正以惊人的速度增长。利用气味来改变情绪、唤起情感和刺激某些感官已经有很长时间了。在此基础上,纺织品开始注入香味,并用于家庭和工业应用。本研究的目的是涵盖香精整理的各个方面。文献综述涵盖了广泛的主题,如芳香疗法的基本概念,香味整理的需求,应用方法和我们目前的市场情况。本研究的后一部分涉及一项调查,该调查揭示了研究差距确定为缺乏市场意识和接受。卡方是一种统计工具,用于将性别、年龄组和收入群体等因素与人们购买香氛成品纺织品的行为联系起来。
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引用次数: 0
Performance properties of terry fabrics for hotel towels 酒店毛巾用毛圈织物的性能
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104054a
Svitlana Arabuli, Arsenii Arabuli, O. Kyzymchuk
The state and standards of provision of hotels in Ukraine with terry towels are presented in this paper. The range of hotel terry towels is analyzed. The main factors that affected the modern assortment of textile materials for hotel terry towels are considered. The main focus is on the classic range of terry fabrics with double piles for hotel towels. The analysis of physical, mechanical and optical properties of terry fabrics for hotel towels is given. Indicators that characterize the interaction of fabric with drip-liquid moisture have been experimentally determined. The paper presents the results of the investigation of terry fabrics` performance after 1, 5 and 10 washing cycles. The terry fabric with 500 g per sq.m density and with a twisted loop 3.5 mm high provides the best performance and is recommended for use in hotel towel manufacturing.
介绍了乌克兰酒店提供毛巾的现状和标准。分析了酒店毛巾的范围。分析了影响酒店毛巾现代纺织材料选择的主要因素。主要的焦点是经典系列的双层毛巾毛巾。对酒店毛巾用毛圈织物的物理、机械和光学性能进行了分析。表征织物与滴液水分相互作用的指标已通过实验确定。本文介绍了毛圈织物经过1、5、10次洗涤后的性能研究结果。每平方500克的毛巾布。M密度和3.5毫米高的扭环提供最佳性能,建议用于酒店毛巾制造。
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引用次数: 0
Textile fabric's and dyes 纺织织物和染料
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2103047y
Touseef Younas, Noor Tayyaba, Afsheen Ayub, Sajid Ali
Textiles sectors serve up the outfit needs of every day and this industry plays a major role in the economy of the country. All the textile fabrics are either natural or synthetic fibers or a blend of both. Different types of dyes are used for different kinds of fabrics depending on the nature and type of the fabric to be dyed, to impart color, modify the fabric to make them more attractive and astonishing. In short, the introduction of synthetic dyes resulted in the demise of a massive natural dye industry. So, it's necessary to classify the different types of dyes with the increase in the number of types and varying dyeing properties so that this would be a best way to understand the different types of dyes, their applicability, fastness and other properties. In this article, a source for the beginners is provided to understand different kind of the textile fabrics and their importance as well as their drawbacks, dyes and their various types, their interaction with the corresponding fabric, their color strength and color fastness properties.
纺织业满足了人们每天的服装需求,这个行业在国家经济中起着重要作用。所有的纺织织物要么是天然纤维,要么是合成纤维,要么是两者的混纺。根据被染色织物的性质和类型,不同种类的织物使用不同类型的染料,以赋予颜色,修饰织物,使其更具吸引力和惊人。简而言之,合成染料的引入导致了大规模天然染料工业的消亡。因此,随着染料种类的增加和染色性能的变化,有必要对不同类型的染料进行分类,这样才能更好地了解不同类型的染料及其适用性、牢度等性能。在本文中,为初学者提供了一个了解不同种类的纺织织物及其重要性和缺点的资料,染料和它们的各种类型,它们与相应织物的相互作用,它们的色强度和色牢度性能。
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引用次数: 1
Fashion in a time of pandemic 流行时代的时尚
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2103018r
S. Risteski, Vineta Srebrenkoska
The fashion industry has taken a hard hit due to the COVID-19 crisis. From the material to the spiritual. The Pandemic has transformed consumers' relationship with clothes. In this paper, research was conducted on how the Pandemic affected fashion, whether the changes in fashion that occurred as a result of the Pandemic will remain permanent or not. Research on pandemics that have previously affected the world and how they have affected fashion, compared to the Pandemic with COVID-19 was also done.
受新冠疫情影响,时装业受到了沉重打击。从物质到精神。流感大流行改变了消费者与服装的关系。在这篇论文中,研究是关于大流行是如何影响时尚的,以及由于大流行而发生的时尚变化是否会永久存在。还研究了以前影响世界的大流行以及与COVID-19大流行相比它们如何影响时尚。
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引用次数: 0
Extraction and characterization of natural fibres form Elettaria Cardamomum 小豆蔻天然纤维的提取与表征
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2102030s
M. Sumithra, G. Murugan
Natural fibres are one of the good alternative sources for replacing synthetic fibres and reinforcing polymer matrices because of their eco-friendly nature. The present study was undertaken to investigate the fibres extract from Elettaria Cardamomum plant. The extracted Elettaria Cardamomum fibre was treated with NaOH for softening. Natural cellulose fibres extracted from Elettaria Cardamomum stems (ECS) have been characterized for their chemical composition and physical properties.The chemical composition of Elettaria Cardamomumstems (ECS) fi bres is, cellulose 60.44%, lignin 25.25%, wax 0.53%, ash 5.45%. Regarding physical properties of the fibres, single fibre strength was evaluated and the result was compared with cotton fibre and linen fibre.
天然纤维具有生态友好的特点,是替代合成纤维和增强聚合物基体的良好来源之一。本研究对小豆蔻植物的纤维提取物进行了研究。提取的小豆蔻纤维用氢氧化钠进行软化处理。研究了从小豆蔻茎中提取的天然纤维素纤维的化学组成和物理性质。小豆蔻(Elettaria cardamomumstem, ECS)纤维的化学成分为:纤维素60.44%,木质素25.25%,蜡0.53%,灰分5.45%。对纤维的物理性能进行了评价,并与棉纤维和亚麻纤维进行了对比。
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引用次数: 1
Blindstitch machines for men suit manufacturing: Part 1 男西服制造用盲针机。第1部分
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2102034n
Ineta Nemeša
Garment industry has developed different kind of machinery which replaces traditional manual blindstitchig techniques to ensure much higher work productivity. Many companies produce universal and specialized blindstitch machines for men suit manufacturing. To create invisible stitches of class 100 and 300, blind stitch machine uses a curved needle. The machines perform 1:1, 1:2 and 1:3.stitch pattern. The advanced machines secure the end of the seam creating invisible thread knot or forming several spot/tack stitches. The machines use to have automatic thread cutter, presser foot lifter and needle positioner. The machines for different quality materials are available. For specific applications machines are equipped with different auxiliary devices. Blind hemming of trousers and lined and unlined jackets are performed with stitches 103, 105, 313.
服装工业已经开发出各种不同的机器来取代传统的手工盲缝技术,以确保更高的工作效率。许多公司生产通用和专业盲针机制造的男士西装。为了创造100级和300级的隐形针,盲针机使用弯曲的针。机器执行1:1,1:2和1:3。针模式。先进的机器确保接缝的末端,形成看不见的线结或形成几个点/钉针。本机设有自动剪线机、压脚升降机和定位针机。不同材质的机器都有。对于特定的应用,机器配备不同的辅助装置。裤子、夹克衫和无夹克衫的盲缝是用针103、105、313来缝制的。
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引用次数: 2
A cut marker for aircraft seat cover 飞机座套的切割标记
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2102040j
Sonja Jordeva, Hristina Anusheva, Sashka Golomeova-Longurova, Silvana Zhezhova, Vangja Dimitrijeva-Kuzmanoska, Kiro Mojsov, Marija Kertakova
A cut marker shows how pattern pieces should be cut from one or several layers of fabric and it has a direct impact on fabric consumption. In the confection industry besides clothes, items are made for other purposes. In this paper, an analysis of the making a cut marker for aircraft seat cover is made as well as a description of the materials needed. Aircraft seat cover is made from multilayer (laminated) materials and natural leather. Process of making the cut marker of headrest cover, the backrest cover and the legrest cover is especially considered in this paper. The cost of the material for the production of the aircraft seat cover is calculated with the help of the cut marker. The manufactured aircraft seat cover should be of top quality, which is an imperative today due to the serious competition in the market.
裁剪标记显示如何从一层或几层织物上裁剪样板,它对织物的消耗有直接影响。在糖果行业,除了服装,还有其他用途。本文对飞机座套切割标志的制作进行了分析,并对所需材料进行了说明。飞机座套由多层(层压)材料和天然皮革制成。本文特别考虑了头枕罩、靠背罩和腿罩切割标记的制作过程。飞机座套生产的材料成本是借助切割标记进行计算的。制造的飞机座套应该是高质量的,这是一个必要的今天,由于激烈的市场竞争。
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引用次数: 0
Using Beneish M-Score and Altman Z-Score models to detect financial fraud and company failure 使用Beneish M-Score和Altman Z-Score模型检测财务欺诈和公司破产
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104020k
Snežana Knežević, M. Špiler, M. Milašinović, Aleksandra Mitrović, Stefan Milojević, Jovana Travica
Bankruptcy is a risk that any company can face, regardless of its size. The importance of predicting a company's bankruptcy for years before its development is enormous, and it is important for financial sustainability. Financial reporting is an important platform for making financial decisions of investors and creditors. In recent years, the frequency of false financial reporting by firms has increased and there are concerns about investors' confidence in capital market. Academics and industry experts adopt a variety of risk management techniques to detect fraudulent financial reporting. A case study was applied in this paper. Based on publicly available financial data (disclosed financial statements) of a domestic textile company for the period 2017-2020, whose shares are listed on the stock exchange, a survey was conducted based on the application of Altman's Z-Score model and Beneish M-Score model. Financial distress is an important criterion to monitor when assessing the likelihood of fraud reporting. When a company is operating poorly, there is a greater motivation to engage in fraudulent financial reporting. The findings show that the results differ according to the applied method in terms of identifying the possibility of bankruptcy and the possibility of fraud in the financial statements of the observed company. The results of the study can be important to investors, auditors, regulators, bankers, tax and other government bodies.
破产是任何公司都可能面临的风险,无论其规模大小。在公司发展前几年预测其破产的重要性是巨大的,这对财务可持续性也很重要。财务报告是投资者和债权人进行财务决策的重要平台。近年来,企业虚假财务报告的频率有所增加,投资者对资本市场的信心令人担忧。学者和行业专家采用各种风险管理技术来检测虚假财务报告。本文采用实例进行了研究。基于国内某上市纺织企业2017-2020年公开财务数据(已披露财务报表),应用Altman的Z-Score模型和Beneish的M-Score模型进行调查。在评估舞弊报告的可能性时,财务困境是一个重要的监测标准。当一家公司经营不善时,就更有动机进行虚假财务报告。研究发现,在识别被观察公司的财务报表中存在破产可能性和欺诈可能性方面,采用不同的方法得出的结果是不同的。这项研究的结果对投资者、审计人员、监管机构、银行家、税务和其他政府机构可能很重要。
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引用次数: 2
期刊
Tekstilna industrija
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