Mikael Alm’s book is a deep dive into the notions that characterised attitudes towards clothing in the late eighteenth century, a time when the established cor-relations between everyday dress and social order based on differentiation and regulations were challenged. Previous research on the period has shown a grow-ing tension between a traditional, highly regulated worldview, where social po-sition determined the individual’s sartorial choices, and an emerging modern consumer culture where wealth, wider access to fashion items, and the desire for personal expression through dress became increasingly prominent. People of the time acknowledged the inefficiency of sumptuary legislation and called for new, more drastic measures to maintain visible hierarchies. In 1773, the Swedish Royal Patriotic Society announced a prize competition in which answers were sought as to what advantages and possible disadvantages the introduction of a national dress would entail for Sweden. The responses, essays by approximately 65 writers, constitute the main source for Alm’s study. The essays illustrate widespread perceptions of how social order and sartorial practices were connected, and provide insight into a variety of individual imaginary worlds with personally coloured solutions to the clothing problem. The study is organised around the themes identified in the sources, resulting in three rich empirical chapters where the essay writers’ voices about social order, disorder in the sartorial world, and the importance of and means for maintaining visible differences in dress between groups in society are discussed in relation to each other and to current historical research. Although the source material is uniform, the content, which spans wide, sprawling fields, and presents contradictory, inconsistent arguments, requires deep insights into many aspects of the
迈克尔·阿尔姆(Mikael Alm)的书深入探讨了18世纪晚期人们对服装的态度，当时，基于差异化和法规的日常着装与社会秩序之间的既定关系受到了挑战。先前对这一时期的研究表明，传统的、高度规范的世界观(社会地位决定了个人的服装选择)与新兴的现代消费文化(财富、更广泛的时尚商品渠道以及通过服装表达个人的愿望日益突出)之间的紧张关系日益加剧。当时的人们认识到有关奢侈的立法效率低下，并呼吁采取新的、更严厉的措施来维持可见的等级制度。1773年，瑞典皇家爱国协会(Swedish Royal Patriotic Society)宣布了一项有奖竞赛，征集关于引入民族服装会给瑞典带来哪些好处和可能的坏处的答案。这些回应，大约65位作家的文章，构成了Alm研究的主要来源。这些文章阐述了社会秩序和服装实践是如何联系在一起的普遍看法，并提供了对各种个人想象世界的洞察力，并为服装问题提供了个人色彩的解决方案。该研究围绕来源中确定的主题进行组织，形成三个丰富的实证章节，其中论文作者关于社会秩序的声音，服装世界中的混乱，以及保持社会群体之间明显差异的重要性和手段，讨论了彼此之间的关系和当前的历史研究。虽然来源材料是统一的，但内容跨越广泛，杂乱无章的领域，并提出矛盾，不一致的论点，需要对许多方面有深刻的见解
{"title":"Mikael Alm, Sartorial Practices and Social Order in Eighteenth-Century Sweden: Fashioning Difference (New York & London: Routledge, 2022). 176 pp.","authors":"Pernilla Rasmussen","doi":"10.7557/4.6599","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.6599","url":null,"abstract":"Mikael Alm’s book is a deep dive into the notions that characterised attitudes towards clothing in the late eighteenth century, a time when the established cor-relations between everyday dress and social order based on differentiation and regulations were challenged. Previous research on the period has shown a grow-ing tension between a traditional, highly regulated worldview, where social po-sition determined the individual’s sartorial choices, and an emerging modern consumer culture where wealth, wider access to fashion items, and the desire for personal expression through dress became increasingly prominent. People of the time acknowledged the inefficiency of sumptuary legislation and called for new, more drastic measures to maintain visible hierarchies. In 1773, the Swedish Royal Patriotic Society announced a prize competition in which answers were sought as to what advantages and possible disadvantages the introduction of a national dress would entail for Sweden. The responses, essays by approximately 65 writers, constitute the main source for Alm’s study. The essays illustrate widespread perceptions of how social order and sartorial practices were connected, and provide insight into a variety of individual imaginary worlds with personally coloured solutions to the clothing problem. The study is organised around the themes identified in the sources, resulting in three rich empirical chapters where the essay writers’ voices about social order, disorder in the sartorial world, and the importance of and means for maintaining visible differences in dress between groups in society are discussed in relation to each other and to current historical research. Although the source material is uniform, the content, which spans wide, sprawling fields, and presents contradictory, inconsistent arguments, requires deep insights into many aspects of the","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"27 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-12-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83227799","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Anita Wiklund Norli & Anne Svånaug Blengsdalen (red.),Greven og hans undersåtter. Makt og avmakt gjennom 150 år (Novus forlag: Oslo, 2021). 313 s.","authors":"Harald Gustafsson","doi":"10.7557/4.6601","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.6601","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"106 31 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-12-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72653647","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Tobias Osvald, Stadens gränsplatser: Kungliga Poliskammaren och vardagens omstridda rum i Stockholm, 1776–1835 (Uppsala: Acta Universitatis Upsaliensis, 2022). 336 s.","authors":"Maja Bondestam","doi":"10.7557/4.6593","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.6593","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"87 5 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-12-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81228054","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Summary and reflections on the ”Linnaeus debate” in Sweden 2020/2021","authors":"Annika Windahl Pontén","doi":"10.7557/4.5909","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.5909","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"93 12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87657857","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Charlotte Bellamy, Les professionnels de bouche français dans la Suède gustavienne, 1750–1820 (Florence: European University Institute, 2020). 571 pp.","authors":"C. Wolff","doi":"10.7557/4.5891","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.5891","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90206897","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Francisca Hoyer’s thesis is a welcome addition to our understanding of early global processes on a micro level. Basing her investigation on twenty-seven archives and a vast secondary literature, she successfully analyses the familial relations of a category of world travelers who are not unknown to previous historiography but have frequently been overlooked. These are the hundreds of thousands of Germans who signed up with the leading East Indies trading companies, the Dutch VOC and the English EIC, in the early modern era. Many of them came to an early death in the plantations of Sumatra, the malaria-infested quarters of Batavia, or the cramped company ships which took more than half-a-year to reach their Asian destinations. Those who survived maintained connections to their Central European backgrounds and forged new connections in their new environment. Unmarried sailors, soldiers, artisans, and other company employees would find wives and mistresses, mostly but not exclusively Asian and Eurasian women, and consequently sire children whose status was largely contingent on skin colour. They might also go to great length to maintain contacts with their distant kin in Brandenburg, Saxony or Mecklenburg, though the exchange of letters demanded years of patient waiting. Conversely, the families back in Germany were often anxious for news about relatives who had become Ostindienfahrer, not least when there were issues of inheritance at stake. It is in this context that Hoyer analyses the nexus of family and empire, a history that is both social and global. Several German historians
{"title":"Francisca Hoyer, Relations of Absence: Germans in the East Indies and Their Families c. 1750–1820 (Uppsala: Acta Historica Upsaliensia, 2020). 370 pp.","authors":"Hans Hägerdal","doi":"10.7557/4.5877","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.5877","url":null,"abstract":"Francisca Hoyer’s thesis is a welcome addition to our understanding of early global processes on a micro level. Basing her investigation on twenty-seven archives and a vast secondary literature, she successfully analyses the familial relations of a category of world travelers who are not unknown to previous historiography but have frequently been overlooked. These are the hundreds of thousands of Germans who signed up with the leading East Indies trading companies, the Dutch VOC and the English EIC, in the early modern era. Many of them came to an early death in the plantations of Sumatra, the malaria-infested quarters of Batavia, or the cramped company ships which took more than half-a-year to reach their Asian destinations. Those who survived maintained connections to their Central European backgrounds and forged new connections in their new environment. Unmarried sailors, soldiers, artisans, and other company employees would find wives and mistresses, mostly but not exclusively Asian and Eurasian women, and consequently sire children whose status was largely contingent on skin colour. They might also go to great length to maintain contacts with their distant kin in Brandenburg, Saxony or Mecklenburg, though the exchange of letters demanded years of patient waiting. Conversely, the families back in Germany were often anxious for news about relatives who had become Ostindienfahrer, not least when there were issues of inheritance at stake. It is in this context that Hoyer analyses the nexus of family and empire, a history that is both social and global. Several German historians","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"29 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78493215","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Per Pippin Aspaas & László Kontler, Maximilian Hell (1720–92) and the Ends of Jesuit Science in Enlightenment Europe (Leiden: Brill, 2019). 477 pp.","authors":"G. Ellingsen","doi":"10.7557/4.5897","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.5897","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"24 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84773803","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
För var och en som i sin forskning har kommit in på det svenska hovet är Fabian Persson inte bara bekant, utan djupt avhållen. Med sin avhandling Servants of Fortune: The Swedish Court between 1598 and 1721 (1999) var han länge en tämligen ensam representant för en modernare svensk hovforskning, och en lika oundgänglig som tacksam referens för ett brett spektrum av humanistiska forskare ifråga om hovet i det tidigmoderna Sverige. Lika frustrerande har det för mången 1700-talsforskare varit att Persson gjorde halt vid den karolinska tidens slut. Jag hör till dem som ivrigt har väntat på fortsättningen – på att Persson skulle ta steget in i det fortsatta 1700-talet, med frihetstidens och den gustavianska periodens hov. Nu har han gjort det. Och mer därtill. Persson är tillbaka med besked, och utsträcker sin analys från den frihetstid där han först gjorde halt, hela vägen fram till 1930-talet. Framställningen drivs av en förståelse av det svenska hovet som ryms i titeln: «survival» och «revival» avser monarkin, och hovet blir den arena där denna överlevnad och denna förnyelse utspelas. För Persson blir hovet skärningspunkten i en svensk modell där kungamakt och en adlig maktelit ingick i en symbios. Denna symbios upprätthöll i förlängningen monarkin i ett Europa av politiska stormar och monarkiers hårda fall. Detta är en lika stor som tankeväckande historia, som jag finner inspirerande då den – i Perssons framställning, men också i en förlängd analys i läsarens, alltså mina, egna reflektioner – förmår ge en förklarande kontext till enskilda händelser och större förlopp.
{"title":"Fabian Persson, Survival and Revival in Sweden’s Court and Monarchy, 1718‒1930 (London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2020). 349 pp.","authors":"Mikael Alm","doi":"10.7557/4.5868","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.7557/4.5868","url":null,"abstract":"För var och en som i sin forskning har kommit in på det svenska hovet är Fabian Persson inte bara bekant, utan djupt avhållen. Med sin avhandling Servants of Fortune: The Swedish Court between 1598 and 1721 (1999) var han länge en tämligen ensam representant för en modernare svensk hovforskning, och en lika oundgänglig som tacksam referens för ett brett spektrum av humanistiska forskare ifråga om hovet i det tidigmoderna Sverige. Lika frustrerande har det för mången 1700-talsforskare varit att Persson gjorde halt vid den karolinska tidens slut. Jag hör till dem som ivrigt har väntat på fortsättningen – på att Persson skulle ta steget in i det fortsatta 1700-talet, med frihetstidens och den gustavianska periodens hov. Nu har han gjort det. Och mer därtill. Persson är tillbaka med besked, och utsträcker sin analys från den frihetstid där han först gjorde halt, hela vägen fram till 1930-talet. Framställningen drivs av en förståelse av det svenska hovet som ryms i titeln: «survival» och «revival» avser monarkin, och hovet blir den arena där denna överlevnad och denna förnyelse utspelas. För Persson blir hovet skärningspunkten i en svensk modell där kungamakt och en adlig maktelit ingick i en symbios. Denna symbios upprätthöll i förlängningen monarkin i ett Europa av politiska stormar och monarkiers hårda fall. Detta är en lika stor som tankeväckande historia, som jag finner inspirerande då den – i Perssons framställning, men också i en förlängd analys i läsarens, alltså mina, egna reflektioner – förmår ge en förklarande kontext till enskilda händelser och större förlopp.","PeriodicalId":37573,"journal":{"name":"Sjuttonhundratal","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76042662","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
京公网安备 11010802042870号
京ICP备2023020795号-1
扫码关注我们
求助内容：
应助结果提醒方式：