Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1718281
Natalie Jovanovski
{"title":"The taste of art: Cooking, food, and counterculture in contemporary practices","authors":"Natalie Jovanovski","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1718281","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718281","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718281","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43232724","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1718274
T. Plasil
Abstract We confront the expiration date whenever we shop, eat or discard food. This label has changed our foodways in profound and unforeseen manners, on the one hand increasing food safety while on the other reducing our sensory ability to judge food, thus leading to an increase in food waste. Only by understanding how the quality and expiration date of a product are interrelated and co-constructed by different actors, technologies and practices throughout the food chain, might we gain a better understanding of the phenomenon and be able to find solutions to a growing food waste problem. Based on ethnographic research at different locations, I will open the black box of the date label to unravel its internal complexities. I will show how human and non-human actors are entangled and connected via the expiration date—on the one hand co-constructing the double black box that hides the properties of the product milk and on the other being strongly influenced by their own construction.
{"title":"Black boxing milk: Date labeling, quality, and waste throughout the Norwegian milk chain","authors":"T. Plasil","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1718274","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718274","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract We confront the expiration date whenever we shop, eat or discard food. This label has changed our foodways in profound and unforeseen manners, on the one hand increasing food safety while on the other reducing our sensory ability to judge food, thus leading to an increase in food waste. Only by understanding how the quality and expiration date of a product are interrelated and co-constructed by different actors, technologies and practices throughout the food chain, might we gain a better understanding of the phenomenon and be able to find solutions to a growing food waste problem. Based on ethnographic research at different locations, I will open the black box of the date label to unravel its internal complexities. I will show how human and non-human actors are entangled and connected via the expiration date—on the one hand co-constructing the double black box that hides the properties of the product milk and on the other being strongly influenced by their own construction.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718274","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45936389","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1718280
Kelly J. Hodgins, Kate Parizeau
Abstract Although food waste is gaining attention as an issue of environmental, social, and economic concern, this topic has only been taken up minimally by food scholars, despite its apparent relevance to food systems scholarship. Through a literature scan of nine food systems journals, we identify and characterize all instances of “food waste” and “food loss” mentions. We find that reference to this important topic is growing within food studies but is still a marginal concept. To help advance the discourse on food wastage, we suggest three potential areas of food systems research that could extend the scholarship, particularly drawing from analytical developments in discard studies. We encourage food studies scholars to consider waste as an intrinsic element of the food systems they study and as a fruitful boundary topic for future research.
{"title":"Farm-to-fork… and beyond? A call to incorporate food waste into food systems research","authors":"Kelly J. Hodgins, Kate Parizeau","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1718280","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718280","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Although food waste is gaining attention as an issue of environmental, social, and economic concern, this topic has only been taken up minimally by food scholars, despite its apparent relevance to food systems scholarship. Through a literature scan of nine food systems journals, we identify and characterize all instances of “food waste” and “food loss” mentions. We find that reference to this important topic is growing within food studies but is still a marginal concept. To help advance the discourse on food wastage, we suggest three potential areas of food systems research that could extend the scholarship, particularly drawing from analytical developments in discard studies. We encourage food studies scholars to consider waste as an intrinsic element of the food systems they study and as a fruitful boundary topic for future research.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718280","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46035719","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1718273
Elaine Gerber
Abstract Food insecurity is a significant problem in the U.S., disproportionately impacting people with disabilities. Yet, little scholarship exists about disability and food, particularly on people in institutions, with even less from disabled people’s perspectives. This article presents two ethnographic examples from different types of “community placements.” These first-hand accounts by disabled people explore the shape that food insecurity takes in different institutional group-home settings, and how one balances the competing needs of health and freedom. They demonstrate how notions of power, control, and resistance, and underlying ableist assumptions about “appropriate bodies,” play out on a day-to-day basis. They highlight an acute awareness by the occupants themselves of these power dynamics and thus, how cautious they were to be critical of their care providers. They further document how severely disabled people can, and cannot, exercise control over what, when, where, and with whom they eat—with implications for both nutrition/health and sociality/inclusion.
{"title":"Ableism and its discontents: Food as a form of power, control, and resistance among disabled people living in U.S. Institutions","authors":"Elaine Gerber","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1718273","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718273","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Food insecurity is a significant problem in the U.S., disproportionately impacting people with disabilities. Yet, little scholarship exists about disability and food, particularly on people in institutions, with even less from disabled people’s perspectives. This article presents two ethnographic examples from different types of “community placements.” These first-hand accounts by disabled people explore the shape that food insecurity takes in different institutional group-home settings, and how one balances the competing needs of health and freedom. They demonstrate how notions of power, control, and resistance, and underlying ableist assumptions about “appropriate bodies,” play out on a day-to-day basis. They highlight an acute awareness by the occupants themselves of these power dynamics and thus, how cautious they were to be critical of their care providers. They further document how severely disabled people can, and cannot, exercise control over what, when, where, and with whom they eat—with implications for both nutrition/health and sociality/inclusion.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1718273","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46686414","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-12-08DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2019.1700050
Kathleen E. Magruder
{"title":"Making Taste Public: Ethnographies of Food and the Senses","authors":"Kathleen E. Magruder","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2019.1700050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2019.1700050","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-12-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2019.1700050","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43788296","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-12-06DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2019.1700049
Jennifer R. Shutek
{"title":"Halal Food: A History","authors":"Jennifer R. Shutek","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2019.1700049","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2019.1700049","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-12-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2019.1700049","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47860021","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-10-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2019.1673004
M. Warin, B. Jay, T. Zivkovic
Abstract When it comes to food, eating and technologies, convenience is constructed as contradictory: on the one hand as a practice that saves time and effort, and on the other hand, an easy and often “unhealthy” choice, contributing to obesity rates. Moralizing, classed and gendered discourses around health and obesity mean that convenient options are rarely portrayed as “good choices”. Through ethnographic research on food and families in the suburbs of an Australian city, this paper disrupts negative and polarized constructions of convenience in obesity debates. Building on the work of Mol et al. and Jackson et al. we argue that convenience is shaped by multiple contexts, and in particular, gendered and classed practices of care. In doing so, we suggest that public health interventions that construct convenience foods and technologies as wholly negative miss important cultural contexts in which convenience and care intersect to enhance social relationships.
{"title":"“Ready-made” assumptions: Situating convenience as care in the Australian obesity debate","authors":"M. Warin, B. Jay, T. Zivkovic","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2019.1673004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2019.1673004","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract When it comes to food, eating and technologies, convenience is constructed as contradictory: on the one hand as a practice that saves time and effort, and on the other hand, an easy and often “unhealthy” choice, contributing to obesity rates. Moralizing, classed and gendered discourses around health and obesity mean that convenient options are rarely portrayed as “good choices”. Through ethnographic research on food and families in the suburbs of an Australian city, this paper disrupts negative and polarized constructions of convenience in obesity debates. Building on the work of Mol et al. and Jackson et al. we argue that convenience is shaped by multiple contexts, and in particular, gendered and classed practices of care. In doing so, we suggest that public health interventions that construct convenience foods and technologies as wholly negative miss important cultural contexts in which convenience and care intersect to enhance social relationships.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2019.1673004","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44972134","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-10-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2019.1673013
Liora Gvion, Netta Leedon
Abstract This study looks at the ways in which Israeli female chefs interpret professional cookery and mobilize their position to form feminine restaurant spaces, in which they instill their professional agenda. Israeli female chefs, we argue, maintain that their gender grants them professional flexibility to construct cooking spaces where alternative working norms apply and certain privileges, such as a flexibility to establish cooking spaces that do not otherwise function in the realm of upscale dining. By perceiving their restaurants as an extension of the dwelling, they interpret their head chef position as that of a professional mentor and counselor. Moreover, they exercise their legitimacy via an ongoing dialog with their staff, based on respect, empathy and emotional support, all with the aim of turning them into better cooks. Their professional vision of cookery also translates into designing menus that reflect a homey feeling and enable creating a community of diners.
{"title":"Incorporating the home into the restaurant kitchen: The case of Israeli female chefs","authors":"Liora Gvion, Netta Leedon","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2019.1673013","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2019.1673013","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study looks at the ways in which Israeli female chefs interpret professional cookery and mobilize their position to form feminine restaurant spaces, in which they instill their professional agenda. Israeli female chefs, we argue, maintain that their gender grants them professional flexibility to construct cooking spaces where alternative working norms apply and certain privileges, such as a flexibility to establish cooking spaces that do not otherwise function in the realm of upscale dining. By perceiving their restaurants as an extension of the dwelling, they interpret their head chef position as that of a professional mentor and counselor. Moreover, they exercise their legitimacy via an ongoing dialog with their staff, based on respect, empathy and emotional support, all with the aim of turning them into better cooks. Their professional vision of cookery also translates into designing menus that reflect a homey feeling and enable creating a community of diners.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2019.1673013","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42894335","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-10-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2019.1673016
Melissa Fuster, E. González
Abstract We utilized key informant interviews to examine traditional diet (TD) perceptions among members of the Hispanic Caribbean (HC) community in New York City (Dominicans, Cubans and Puerto Ricans, n = 23). While the cuisines share many similarities, the interviews revealed differences in how the TDs were evaluated. Cubans emphasized the unhealthiness of their TD, while Dominicans and Puerto Ricans emphasized the importance of their TD in daily life. Participants identified unhealthy aspects of their TDs (predominance of carbohydrates and fried foods, and the lack of fresh fruits and vegetables), and discussed motivations for dietary changes (migration, the demands of new labor routines, health concerns, and spouse/family influence). The analysis demonstrates that distinct ideas, symbols, and meanings associated with TDs reflect how these communities relate to their heritage countries, as a result of distinct migration histories and global forces shaping cuisines and societies in the diaspora and the Caribbean.
{"title":"Traditional diets in everyday life: Perspectives from Hispanic Caribbean communities in New York City","authors":"Melissa Fuster, E. González","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2019.1673016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2019.1673016","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract We utilized key informant interviews to examine traditional diet (TD) perceptions among members of the Hispanic Caribbean (HC) community in New York City (Dominicans, Cubans and Puerto Ricans, n = 23). While the cuisines share many similarities, the interviews revealed differences in how the TDs were evaluated. Cubans emphasized the unhealthiness of their TD, while Dominicans and Puerto Ricans emphasized the importance of their TD in daily life. Participants identified unhealthy aspects of their TDs (predominance of carbohydrates and fried foods, and the lack of fresh fruits and vegetables), and discussed motivations for dietary changes (migration, the demands of new labor routines, health concerns, and spouse/family influence). The analysis demonstrates that distinct ideas, symbols, and meanings associated with TDs reflect how these communities relate to their heritage countries, as a result of distinct migration histories and global forces shaping cuisines and societies in the diaspora and the Caribbean.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2019.1673016","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41259075","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-10-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2019.1677396
Clare A. Sammells
Abstract This article considers the emerging Bolivian gastronomic discourse as a project fraught with tensions. On the one hand, the discourse surrounding Bolivian cuisine, as presented in urban restaurants, highlights a new kind of nationalism that promotes regional cooking and innovation. This process has elevated indigenous ingredients, such as quinoa, chuño (freeze-dried potatoes), and llama meat, to the status of delicacies. This gastronomic emergence parallels the recent rise of an indigenous middle-class, as well as the shifting political boundaries between indigenous and non-indigenous in the era of President Evo Morales. Nevertheless, elite urban forms of Bolivian cuisine only partially transcend gender, class, and ethnic divides; they sometimes have the (unintended) effect of highlighting and re-inscribing existing social fault-lines. This article considers how indigenous Bolivian women are used to mark Bolivian cuisine, while they are simultaneously marginalized from it. While indigenous women dominate the “culinary field” of quotidian eating in domestic and marketplace arenas, they are far less evident in the “gastronomic fields” of elite restaurants, cookbooks, and written texts. Despite this exclusion, their presence is often invoked through ethnically-marked clothing such as the pollera and their symbolic production of “local” food.
{"title":"Reimagining Bolivian cuisine: Haute traditional food and its discontents","authors":"Clare A. Sammells","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2019.1677396","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2019.1677396","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article considers the emerging Bolivian gastronomic discourse as a project fraught with tensions. On the one hand, the discourse surrounding Bolivian cuisine, as presented in urban restaurants, highlights a new kind of nationalism that promotes regional cooking and innovation. This process has elevated indigenous ingredients, such as quinoa, chuño (freeze-dried potatoes), and llama meat, to the status of delicacies. This gastronomic emergence parallels the recent rise of an indigenous middle-class, as well as the shifting political boundaries between indigenous and non-indigenous in the era of President Evo Morales. Nevertheless, elite urban forms of Bolivian cuisine only partially transcend gender, class, and ethnic divides; they sometimes have the (unintended) effect of highlighting and re-inscribing existing social fault-lines. This article considers how indigenous Bolivian women are used to mark Bolivian cuisine, while they are simultaneously marginalized from it. While indigenous women dominate the “culinary field” of quotidian eating in domestic and marketplace arenas, they are far less evident in the “gastronomic fields” of elite restaurants, cookbooks, and written texts. Despite this exclusion, their presence is often invoked through ethnically-marked clothing such as the pollera and their symbolic production of “local” food.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2019.1677396","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46001963","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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