Pub Date : 2022-10-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124730
Mayara Sanay da Silva Oliveira, Ramiro Andreas Fernandez Unsain, Priscila de Morais Sato, M. D. Ulian, F. Scagliusi, M. Cardoso
Abstract This article describes and discusses the sociocultural process of learning and teaching women’s domestic culinary skills. Drawing on descriptive qualitative research, we conducted an in-depth analysis of semi-structured interviews with 16 cisgender women who cooked at home at least once a day and lived in Cruzeiro do Sul, Acre state, Brazilian Western Amazon. Our results suggest that women develop their domestic cooking skills at different moments. In childhood, the women interviewed were taught by their maternal figures and learned the required culinary skills to prepare “Rainforest Foods,” traditional foods in their original places. In adulthood, female employers taught them the culinary skills needed to prepare “City food,” meals made with ingredients, tools, and cooking methods available in the urban area. Notably, the women interviewed also reported being taught by their husbands to cook foods that met their tastes and eating patterns. In contrast, women teach their sons and daughters culinary skills to develop their food autonomy and promote the egalitarian division of domestic culinary work. These findings are essential to understand the sociocultural process of learning and teaching domestic culinary skills among communities or membership groups who lived in forest or rural areas and migrated to urban centers.
{"title":"“Because I saw my mother cooking”: the sociocultural process of learning and teaching domestic culinary skills of the Western Brazilian Amazonian women","authors":"Mayara Sanay da Silva Oliveira, Ramiro Andreas Fernandez Unsain, Priscila de Morais Sato, M. D. Ulian, F. Scagliusi, M. Cardoso","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2124730","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2124730","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article describes and discusses the sociocultural process of learning and teaching women’s domestic culinary skills. Drawing on descriptive qualitative research, we conducted an in-depth analysis of semi-structured interviews with 16 cisgender women who cooked at home at least once a day and lived in Cruzeiro do Sul, Acre state, Brazilian Western Amazon. Our results suggest that women develop their domestic cooking skills at different moments. In childhood, the women interviewed were taught by their maternal figures and learned the required culinary skills to prepare “Rainforest Foods,” traditional foods in their original places. In adulthood, female employers taught them the culinary skills needed to prepare “City food,” meals made with ingredients, tools, and cooking methods available in the urban area. Notably, the women interviewed also reported being taught by their husbands to cook foods that met their tastes and eating patterns. In contrast, women teach their sons and daughters culinary skills to develop their food autonomy and promote the egalitarian division of domestic culinary work. These findings are essential to understand the sociocultural process of learning and teaching domestic culinary skills among communities or membership groups who lived in forest or rural areas and migrated to urban centers.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"310 - 330"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43217049","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-21DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124725
L. O’Hagan, Göran Eriksson
Abstract This paper offers the first case study of the marketing of cod liver oil in Sweden (1920–1930), following the discovery of vitamins A and D. Drawing upon a large dataset of cod liver oil advertisements from the Swedish Newspaper Archive, it uses multimodal critical discourse analysis to investigate how language and other semiotic resources (e.g. image, typography, color) work together to convey the benefits of cod liver oil intake. It identifies three overarching themes—scientific rationality, scientific motherhood, and nature—noting how advertisements were aimed squarely at mothers and struck a balance between vitamins as scientifically formulated products and mythical, natural substances to convince them that cod liver oil was necessary for their children. Exploring how cod liver oil was marketed from a historical perspective shows how nutritional research gained prominence and became of increasing importance for marketing, as well as how food, through science, became incorporated into a consumerist lifestyle. It also provides a way to deconstruct contemporary marketing practices, thereby enabling consumers to rethink products framed as indispensable for their health.
{"title":"Modern science, moral mothers, and mythical nature: a multimodal analysis of cod liver oil marketing in Sweden, 1920–1930","authors":"L. O’Hagan, Göran Eriksson","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2124725","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2124725","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper offers the first case study of the marketing of cod liver oil in Sweden (1920–1930), following the discovery of vitamins A and D. Drawing upon a large dataset of cod liver oil advertisements from the Swedish Newspaper Archive, it uses multimodal critical discourse analysis to investigate how language and other semiotic resources (e.g. image, typography, color) work together to convey the benefits of cod liver oil intake. It identifies three overarching themes—scientific rationality, scientific motherhood, and nature—noting how advertisements were aimed squarely at mothers and struck a balance between vitamins as scientifically formulated products and mythical, natural substances to convince them that cod liver oil was necessary for their children. Exploring how cod liver oil was marketed from a historical perspective shows how nutritional research gained prominence and became of increasing importance for marketing, as well as how food, through science, became incorporated into a consumerist lifestyle. It also provides a way to deconstruct contemporary marketing practices, thereby enabling consumers to rethink products framed as indispensable for their health.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"231 - 260"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46243457","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-19DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124726
Matilda Marshall
Abstract The aim of this paper is to explore how household food storage practices over time relate to environmental conditions and issues and how this has affected the practices and food culture. Through a bricolage of personal accounts, advertisements, magazine articles and kitchen guidelines, I use Sweden as the empirical example. Departing from the introduction of domestic refrigeration until today, I give particular attention to how different societal actors have framed refrigerated food storage as both solution and problem in relation to issues today linked to environmental sustainability, for example local climate conditions, energy consumption, depletion of the ozone layer and food waste. The paper also shows how people refigure the materiality of past storage to fit into modern-day life. The results, I argue, illustrate how food storage, as a culinary infrastructure, influence daily food practices and thereby understandings of sustainable food. The refrigerator and freezer have had a big impact on food culture. Hence, to encourage more sustainable food practices societal actors need to address and problematize culinary infrastructures and the ideas and values these convey regarding food and sustainability. The paper contributes with a cultural historical approach to how food related practices and infrastructures over time interlinks with different ideas of sustainability.
{"title":"The refrigerator as a problem and solution: Food storage practices as part of sustainable food culture","authors":"Matilda Marshall","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2124726","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2124726","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The aim of this paper is to explore how household food storage practices over time relate to environmental conditions and issues and how this has affected the practices and food culture. Through a bricolage of personal accounts, advertisements, magazine articles and kitchen guidelines, I use Sweden as the empirical example. Departing from the introduction of domestic refrigeration until today, I give particular attention to how different societal actors have framed refrigerated food storage as both solution and problem in relation to issues today linked to environmental sustainability, for example local climate conditions, energy consumption, depletion of the ozone layer and food waste. The paper also shows how people refigure the materiality of past storage to fit into modern-day life. The results, I argue, illustrate how food storage, as a culinary infrastructure, influence daily food practices and thereby understandings of sustainable food. The refrigerator and freezer have had a big impact on food culture. Hence, to encourage more sustainable food practices societal actors need to address and problematize culinary infrastructures and the ideas and values these convey regarding food and sustainability. The paper contributes with a cultural historical approach to how food related practices and infrastructures over time interlinks with different ideas of sustainability.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"261 - 286"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49090915","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-18DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124729
J. Leer, Lene Granzau Juel-Jacobsen
Abstract In recent decades, food festivals have gained popularity across the world. Previous research demonstrates a great diversity in visitors’ motivation and experiences at food festivals. It includes mostly quantitative as well as a few qualitative studies, but we are still lacking in-depth knowledge about visitors’ food festival experiences. This knowledge is important for the practical organization of future food festivals, but also for food studies scholars to help them understand the exact nature and value of a food festival experience. This paper explores the diversity of food festival visitors’ experiences via semi-structured qualitative interviews with participants, supplemented by digital photos taken by them at the Danish food festival Madens Folkemøde 2019. The findings suggest a great diversity in visitors’ experiences, categorized in the article as intellectual, sensory, and social experiences and these three categories are proposed as an analytical framework for future studies.
{"title":"Food festival experiences from visitors’ perspectives: intellectual, sensory, and social dimensions","authors":"J. Leer, Lene Granzau Juel-Jacobsen","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2124729","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2124729","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In recent decades, food festivals have gained popularity across the world. Previous research demonstrates a great diversity in visitors’ motivation and experiences at food festivals. It includes mostly quantitative as well as a few qualitative studies, but we are still lacking in-depth knowledge about visitors’ food festival experiences. This knowledge is important for the practical organization of future food festivals, but also for food studies scholars to help them understand the exact nature and value of a food festival experience. This paper explores the diversity of food festival visitors’ experiences via semi-structured qualitative interviews with participants, supplemented by digital photos taken by them at the Danish food festival Madens Folkemøde 2019. The findings suggest a great diversity in visitors’ experiences, categorized in the article as intellectual, sensory, and social experiences and these three categories are proposed as an analytical framework for future studies.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"287 - 309"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46460102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-07-03DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089828
A. Salonen
Abstract This article analyzes the role of the refrigerator in how food becomes waste in socio-material and ethico-cultural practices. The modern food refrigeration technologies and practices have extended food’s useability time. They have transformed ordinary life by allowing households to store ample amounts of fresh food. However, this study suggests that fridges merit more attention not only in terms of reducing food waste, but in efforts to understand how food waste comes into being. This article draws from an analysis of qualitative interviews with ordinary people in Canada and Finland to show that refrigerators are important agents in the moral narrative of food waste: They provide a concrete space where food becomes waste, a justification for food becoming waste, and a material reference point through which people can talk about wider cultural patterns, moral norms, and ordinary ethical dilemmas tied to food waste. Technical devices such as refrigerators do not alone create or solve the problem of food waste, but they are relevant to the ethics of wasting food. Focusing on the fridge helps to show how human and non-human material worlds are entangled and how an overflowing fridge can structure, illustrate, facilitate, and contribute to human ethical conduct related to food waste in a significant way.
{"title":"Ordinary overflow: Food waste and the ethics of the refrigerator","authors":"A. Salonen","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2089828","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2089828","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article analyzes the role of the refrigerator in how food becomes waste in socio-material and ethico-cultural practices. The modern food refrigeration technologies and practices have extended food’s useability time. They have transformed ordinary life by allowing households to store ample amounts of fresh food. However, this study suggests that fridges merit more attention not only in terms of reducing food waste, but in efforts to understand how food waste comes into being. This article draws from an analysis of qualitative interviews with ordinary people in Canada and Finland to show that refrigerators are important agents in the moral narrative of food waste: They provide a concrete space where food becomes waste, a justification for food becoming waste, and a material reference point through which people can talk about wider cultural patterns, moral norms, and ordinary ethical dilemmas tied to food waste. Technical devices such as refrigerators do not alone create or solve the problem of food waste, but they are relevant to the ethics of wasting food. Focusing on the fridge helps to show how human and non-human material worlds are entangled and how an overflowing fridge can structure, illustrate, facilitate, and contribute to human ethical conduct related to food waste in a significant way.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"145 - 164"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45288249","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-07-03DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2094108
R. Cleves
{"title":"Emily Contois, Diners Dudes & Diet: How Gender and Power Collide in Food Media and Culture (University of North Carolina Press, 2020)","authors":"R. Cleves","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2094108","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2094108","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"228 - 229"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42380016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-06-27DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089826
Jose Luis Fajardo‐Escoffié
Abstract Peru is the center of origin and diversity of more than 3,000 varieties of native potatoes although only a few varieties are typically consumed beyond the Andean region. Drawing on 14 months of ethnographic research, I explore the role of standards of size, quality, and colors as well as documents like invoices in formalizing and mobilizing the potatoes in the market. I argue that these standards and documents together with economic sociability serve as an important strategy to add value to native potatoes from their production in Ayacucho to their distribution in Lima. By keeping the ethnographic eye on the construction and negotiation of those standards, I show the fragility, the risks, the opportunities, and the power relationships that emerge along the native potato chain.
{"title":"Size, color, and freshness: Standards and heritage of native potatoes in Peru","authors":"Jose Luis Fajardo‐Escoffié","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2089826","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2089826","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Peru is the center of origin and diversity of more than 3,000 varieties of native potatoes although only a few varieties are typically consumed beyond the Andean region. Drawing on 14 months of ethnographic research, I explore the role of standards of size, quality, and colors as well as documents like invoices in formalizing and mobilizing the potatoes in the market. I argue that these standards and documents together with economic sociability serve as an important strategy to add value to native potatoes from their production in Ayacucho to their distribution in Lima. By keeping the ethnographic eye on the construction and negotiation of those standards, I show the fragility, the risks, the opportunities, and the power relationships that emerge along the native potato chain.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"165 - 184"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-06-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44120792","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-06-24DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089825
A. Bombak, E. Robinson, Katherine Hughes, N. Riediger, L. Thomson
Abstract Public health and media discourses frequently blame mothers for the size of their children, including parents coping with multiple structural disadvantages. Rural Midwestern American, low-income, self-identified higher-weight women (n = 25) participated in face-to-face, audio-recorded, semi-structured interviews about their beliefs regarding how body size is transmitted across generations. We analyzed interviews using causation coding. Participants facing socioeconomic and geographic barriers to salutogenic lifestyles de-emphasized genetic and epigenetic factors in body size. Instead, participants focused on parents’ role modeling, provision of “obesogenic” foods, and failure to enact protective behaviors like providing non-“obesogenic” foods and limiting children’s screen time. Findings demonstrate that the moralization of childhood “obesity” is pervasive, and these damaging discourses have been taken up among those facing socioeconomic disadvantage.
{"title":"“Mommy-see, mommy-do”: perceptions of intergenerational “obesity” transmission among lower-income, higher-weight, rural midwestern American women","authors":"A. Bombak, E. Robinson, Katherine Hughes, N. Riediger, L. Thomson","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2089825","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2089825","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Public health and media discourses frequently blame mothers for the size of their children, including parents coping with multiple structural disadvantages. Rural Midwestern American, low-income, self-identified higher-weight women (n = 25) participated in face-to-face, audio-recorded, semi-structured interviews about their beliefs regarding how body size is transmitted across generations. We analyzed interviews using causation coding. Participants facing socioeconomic and geographic barriers to salutogenic lifestyles de-emphasized genetic and epigenetic factors in body size. Instead, participants focused on parents’ role modeling, provision of “obesogenic” foods, and failure to enact protective behaviors like providing non-“obesogenic” foods and limiting children’s screen time. Findings demonstrate that the moralization of childhood “obesity” is pervasive, and these damaging discourses have been taken up among those facing socioeconomic disadvantage.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"185 - 207"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-06-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45063393","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-06-24DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089827
Vanesa Miseres
Abstract This essay analyzes women’s connections with cooking through the work of three female writers from Argentina. I uncover key moments in the history of the country in which culinary practices represent a channel for larger reflections on gender struggles and women’s rights. I distinguish three representative cases within the complex and rich relationship between women, cooking, and feminism in Argentine literature: the incursion of nineteenth-century writers in recipe books; the feminists of the 1980s and their use of the culinary language as a political and erotic expression; and cooking and food as an exploration of new social and sexual orders in contemporary literature. Within each period, I focus on a particular writer and literary work: Juana Manuela Gorriti’s Cocina ecléctica (1890), Tununa Mercado’s short story “Antieros” (1988), and Gabriela Cabezón Cámara’s Las aventuras de la China Iron (2017). These Argentine authors provide their knowledge on the diverse cultural roots and habits in South American cooking and give predominance to senses and desire over rational prescriptions on women’s bodies, among other narrative strategies. Thus, analyzed as a corpus, these authors give us a broader idea of feminist practices through cooking and, ultimately, expand multiple meanings of feminism itself from a local perspective.
{"title":"Cooking and feminism through Argentine literature","authors":"Vanesa Miseres","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2089827","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2089827","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This essay analyzes women’s connections with cooking through the work of three female writers from Argentina. I uncover key moments in the history of the country in which culinary practices represent a channel for larger reflections on gender struggles and women’s rights. I distinguish three representative cases within the complex and rich relationship between women, cooking, and feminism in Argentine literature: the incursion of nineteenth-century writers in recipe books; the feminists of the 1980s and their use of the culinary language as a political and erotic expression; and cooking and food as an exploration of new social and sexual orders in contemporary literature. Within each period, I focus on a particular writer and literary work: Juana Manuela Gorriti’s Cocina ecléctica (1890), Tununa Mercado’s short story “Antieros” (1988), and Gabriela Cabezón Cámara’s Las aventuras de la China Iron (2017). These Argentine authors provide their knowledge on the diverse cultural roots and habits in South American cooking and give predominance to senses and desire over rational prescriptions on women’s bodies, among other narrative strategies. Thus, analyzed as a corpus, these authors give us a broader idea of feminist practices through cooking and, ultimately, expand multiple meanings of feminism itself from a local perspective.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"208 - 227"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-06-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42021234","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-02-08DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2030938
Will McKeithen
Abstract Based on a case study of Washington State prison food policy and practice, this article traces the use of nutritionism as an enabling epistemology of mass incarceration in the neoliberal era in the United States. To develop this argument, the author develops the concept of carceral nutrition, or ideologies of food and eating that reduce complex relations of nourishment to biopolitical calculations of nutrition in the interests of discipline, punishment, control, and confinement. Under the pressures of neoliberal austerity, narrowly defined nutritionism ensures cheap sustenance and biopolitical control while maintaining a veneer of scientific legitimacy and liberal beneficence. This article also considers recent efforts to improve prison food through state-based reform and enhanced nutritional standards. These reforms, however, reinforce reductionary nutritionism and cede epistemic authority over “good” food to the carceral state. Drawing on the political theory of prison abolitionism, the author calls for non-reformist approaches to food justice that foster non-carceral relations of food and eating and support collective liberation and human flourishing.
{"title":"Carceral nutrition: Prison food and the biopolitics of dietary knowledge in the neoliberal prison","authors":"Will McKeithen","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2022.2030938","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2022.2030938","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Based on a case study of Washington State prison food policy and practice, this article traces the use of nutritionism as an enabling epistemology of mass incarceration in the neoliberal era in the United States. To develop this argument, the author develops the concept of carceral nutrition, or ideologies of food and eating that reduce complex relations of nourishment to biopolitical calculations of nutrition in the interests of discipline, punishment, control, and confinement. Under the pressures of neoliberal austerity, narrowly defined nutritionism ensures cheap sustenance and biopolitical control while maintaining a veneer of scientific legitimacy and liberal beneficence. This article also considers recent efforts to improve prison food through state-based reform and enhanced nutritional standards. These reforms, however, reinforce reductionary nutritionism and cede epistemic authority over “good” food to the carceral state. Drawing on the political theory of prison abolitionism, the author calls for non-reformist approaches to food justice that foster non-carceral relations of food and eating and support collective liberation and human flourishing.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":"30 1","pages":"58 - 81"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-02-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49062208","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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