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“Humans bring food to their mouths, animals bring their mouths to food”—The morality politics of school-lunch sporks in 1970s Japan “人把食物送到嘴里,动物把食物送到嘴里”——20世纪70年代日本学校午餐叉的道德政治
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2023.2162199
Nathan Hopson
Abstract We are not only what we eat, but how. This article examines the 1970s’ morality politics of spork usage that accompanied the rollout of rice in school lunches. I argue that these discourses about the material culture and etiquette of eating reflect the economic and political context of 1970s Japan and (re)emergent tensions about national identity and the role of children’s diet and table manners in determining Japan’s future. Japan’s national school lunch program is a critical site of “making Japan.” Schoolchildren and teachers generally eat identical meals in their classrooms, serving and cleaning up after each other. Revived in 1946 by the Occupation, the program was nearly universal in public elementary and middle schools by the 1960s. Meals were mostly bread, milk, and soup, stew, etc. The spork was the standard utensil. Cheap, multipurpose, and hygienic, it was a rational mass-catering solution. In the mid-1970s, simultaneous to the introduction of rice to the menu, the spork became the villain in a morality play about children’s eating habits and the nation’s fate. Culturalist pundits warned that sporks hindered development of the special dexterity, cleverness, and sensitivity that made Japan superior among the nations of the world.
摘要我们不仅是吃什么,而且是怎么吃的。这篇文章探讨了20世纪70年代伴随着学校午餐中大米的推出而出现的斯波克用法的道德政治。我认为,这些关于物质文化和饮食礼仪的论述反映了20世纪70年代日本的经济和政治背景,以及(重新)出现的关于民族认同以及儿童饮食和餐桌礼仪在决定日本未来中的作用的紧张关系。日本的国家学校午餐计划是“创造日本”的关键所在。学生和老师通常在教室里吃同样的饭,互相服务和打扫卫生。1946年被占领军复兴,到20世纪60年代,该项目几乎在公立小学和中学普及。食物主要是面包、牛奶、汤、炖菜等。斯波克是标准器具。它便宜、多用途、卫生,是一种合理的大众餐饮解决方案。20世纪70年代中期,在菜单上引入大米的同时,斯波克成为了一部关于儿童饮食习惯和国家命运的道德剧中的反派。文化主义专家警告说,斯波克斯阻碍了日本在世界各国中的特殊灵活性、聪明性和敏感性的发展。
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引用次数: 0
"I don't remember any of us … having diabetes or cancer": How historical oppression undermines indigenous foodways, health, and wellness. "我不记得我们中有人......得过糖尿病或癌症":历史压迫如何破坏土著人的饮食习惯、健康和保健。
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2023-01-01 Epub Date: 2023-02-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2023.2172795
Catherine E McKinley, Valarie Blue Bird Jernigan

Past and present structures of settler colonial historical oppression aimed to erase and replace Indigenous peoples have profoundly disrupted U.S. Indigenous foodways. The purpose of this article is to use the Indigenous Framework of Historical Oppression, Resilience, and Transcendence (FHORT) to understand U.S. Indigenous peoples' experiences and perceptions of how (a) foodways have changed within the context of settler colonial historical oppression and (b) these changes have affected wellness and cultures of Indigenous peoples. Critical ethnographic analysis focused on data from 31 interviews with participants from a rural Southeast reservation and a Northwest urban context. Results revealed participants' descriptions of changing foodways situated in a system of historical oppression, with themes including (a) historical oppression and changing values and foodway practices; (b) settler colonial governmental programs interrupting foodways through commodities and rations; and (c) changing foodway practices: from homegrown and homemade to fast food and premade. Participants described the aftermath of settler colonial governmental policies and programs undermined foodways, connectedness, cultural knowledge, family and interpersonal relationships, ceremonies, and outdoor activities-all of which promote health and wellness. To redress historical oppression, including settler colonial governmental policies, decolonized decision-making, foodways, and Indigenous food sovereignty are recommended as approaches to inform policy and programming that affirms Indigenous values and worldviews.

定居者殖民历史压迫的过去和现在的结构旨在抹杀和取代土著人民,深刻地破坏了美国土著人的饮食方式。本文旨在利用土著历史压迫、复原力和超越性框架(FHORT)来了解美国土著居民的经历和对以下方面的看法:(a)在定居者殖民历史压迫的背景下,饮食方式发生了怎样的变化;(b)这些变化对土著居民的健康和文化产生了怎样的影响。批判性人种学分析侧重于对来自东南部农村保留地和西北部城市环境的参与者进行的 31 次访谈的数据。结果显示,参与者描述了历史压迫制度下不断变化的饮食方式,主题包括:(a)历史压迫和不断变化的价值观和饮食方式;(b)殖民定居者政府计划通过商品和配给中断了饮食方式;以及(c)不断变化的饮食方式:从自家种植和自制到快餐和预制。与会者描述了殖民者殖民政府政策和计划的后果,这些政策和计划破坏了饮食方式、联系、文化知识、家庭和人际关系、仪式和户外活动--所有这些都能促进健康和保健。为了纠正历史上的压迫,包括殖民定居者的政府政策,建议采用非殖民化决策、食物方式和土著食物主权等方法,为肯定土著价值观和世界观的政策和计划提供信息。
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引用次数: 0
“Because I saw my mother cooking”: the sociocultural process of learning and teaching domestic culinary skills of the Western Brazilian Amazonian women “因为我看到我的母亲做饭”:巴西西部亚马逊妇女学习和教授家庭烹饪技能的社会文化过程
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-10-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124730
Mayara Sanay da Silva Oliveira, Ramiro Andreas Fernandez Unsain, Priscila de Morais Sato, M. D. Ulian, F. Scagliusi, M. Cardoso
Abstract This article describes and discusses the sociocultural process of learning and teaching women’s domestic culinary skills. Drawing on descriptive qualitative research, we conducted an in-depth analysis of semi-structured interviews with 16 cisgender women who cooked at home at least once a day and lived in Cruzeiro do Sul, Acre state, Brazilian Western Amazon. Our results suggest that women develop their domestic cooking skills at different moments. In childhood, the women interviewed were taught by their maternal figures and learned the required culinary skills to prepare “Rainforest Foods,” traditional foods in their original places. In adulthood, female employers taught them the culinary skills needed to prepare “City food,” meals made with ingredients, tools, and cooking methods available in the urban area. Notably, the women interviewed also reported being taught by their husbands to cook foods that met their tastes and eating patterns. In contrast, women teach their sons and daughters culinary skills to develop their food autonomy and promote the egalitarian division of domestic culinary work. These findings are essential to understand the sociocultural process of learning and teaching domestic culinary skills among communities or membership groups who lived in forest or rural areas and migrated to urban centers.
摘要本文描述并探讨了女性家庭烹饪技能学习与传授的社会文化过程。利用描述性定性研究,我们对16名居住在巴西西亚马逊阿克州南克鲁塞罗的顺性女性进行了半结构化访谈,深入分析了这些女性每天至少在家做饭一次。我们的研究结果表明,女性在不同时期学习家庭烹饪技能。在童年时期,接受采访的妇女接受母亲形象的教导,学习制作“热带雨林食品”所需的烹饪技巧,这是在原籍地制作的传统食品。成年后,女性雇主教她们准备“城市食物”所需的烹饪技巧,即用城市地区可用的食材、工具和烹饪方法制作的饭菜。值得注意的是,接受采访的女性还报告说,她们的丈夫教她们烹饪符合自己口味和饮食习惯的食物。与此相反,妇女教子女烹饪技巧,以培养他们的食物自主权,并促进家庭烹饪工作的平等分工。这些发现对于了解居住在森林或农村地区并迁移到城市中心的社区或成员群体学习和教授家庭烹饪技能的社会文化过程至关重要。
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引用次数: 2
Modern science, moral mothers, and mythical nature: a multimodal analysis of cod liver oil marketing in Sweden, 1920–1930 现代科学、道德母亲和神话性质:1920–1930年瑞典鱼肝油营销的多模式分析
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-21 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124725
L. O’Hagan, Göran Eriksson
Abstract This paper offers the first case study of the marketing of cod liver oil in Sweden (1920–1930), following the discovery of vitamins A and D. Drawing upon a large dataset of cod liver oil advertisements from the Swedish Newspaper Archive, it uses multimodal critical discourse analysis to investigate how language and other semiotic resources (e.g. image, typography, color) work together to convey the benefits of cod liver oil intake. It identifies three overarching themes—scientific rationality, scientific motherhood, and nature—noting how advertisements were aimed squarely at mothers and struck a balance between vitamins as scientifically formulated products and mythical, natural substances to convince them that cod liver oil was necessary for their children. Exploring how cod liver oil was marketed from a historical perspective shows how nutritional research gained prominence and became of increasing importance for marketing, as well as how food, through science, became incorporated into a consumerist lifestyle. It also provides a way to deconstruct contemporary marketing practices, thereby enabling consumers to rethink products framed as indispensable for their health.
摘要本文提供了继发现维生素A和D后,瑞典(1920–1930)鱼肝油营销的第一个案例研究。根据瑞典报纸档案馆的鱼肝油广告的大型数据集,它使用多模态批判性话语分析来研究语言和其他符号资源(如图像、排版、颜色)如何协同工作来传达鱼肝油摄入的好处。它确定了三个首要主题——科学理性、科学母性和自然——注意到广告是如何直接针对母亲的,并在维生素作为科学配方的产品和神秘的天然物质之间取得平衡,以说服他们鱼肝油对孩子是必要的。从历史的角度探索鱼肝油是如何营销的,表明营养研究是如何获得重视并对营销变得越来越重要的,以及食品是如何通过科学融入消费主义生活方式的。它还提供了一种解构当代营销实践的方法,从而使消费者能够重新思考对他们的健康不可或缺的产品。
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引用次数: 8
The refrigerator as a problem and solution: Food storage practices as part of sustainable food culture 冰箱是一个问题和解决方案:作为可持续食品文化一部分的食品储存实践
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-19 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124726
Matilda Marshall
Abstract The aim of this paper is to explore how household food storage practices over time relate to environmental conditions and issues and how this has affected the practices and food culture. Through a bricolage of personal accounts, advertisements, magazine articles and kitchen guidelines, I use Sweden as the empirical example. Departing from the introduction of domestic refrigeration until today, I give particular attention to how different societal actors have framed refrigerated food storage as both solution and problem in relation to issues today linked to environmental sustainability, for example local climate conditions, energy consumption, depletion of the ozone layer and food waste. The paper also shows how people refigure the materiality of past storage to fit into modern-day life. The results, I argue, illustrate how food storage, as a culinary infrastructure, influence daily food practices and thereby understandings of sustainable food. The refrigerator and freezer have had a big impact on food culture. Hence, to encourage more sustainable food practices societal actors need to address and problematize culinary infrastructures and the ideas and values these convey regarding food and sustainability. The paper contributes with a cultural historical approach to how food related practices and infrastructures over time interlinks with different ideas of sustainability.
摘要本文的目的是探讨随着时间的推移,家庭食品储存实践与环境条件和问题之间的关系,以及这对实践和食品文化的影响。通过个人账户、广告、杂志文章和厨房指南的拼凑,我以瑞典为例。从引入家用制冷到今天,我特别关注不同的社会行动者如何将冷藏食品储存视为与当今环境可持续性相关的问题的解决方案和问题,例如当地气候条件、能源消耗、臭氧层消耗和食物浪费。该论文还展示了人们如何重新配置过去存储的物质性,以适应现代生活。我认为,研究结果表明,食品储存作为一种烹饪基础设施,如何影响日常饮食实践,从而影响对可持续食品的理解。冰箱和冷冻柜对饮食文化产生了重大影响。因此,为了鼓励更可持续的食品实践,社会行动者需要解决烹饪基础设施以及这些基础设施传达的关于食品和可持续性的理念和价值观,并将其问题化。本文从文化历史的角度探讨了随着时间的推移,与粮食相关的做法和基础设施如何与不同的可持续性理念相互联系。
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引用次数: 1
Food festival experiences from visitors’ perspectives: intellectual, sensory, and social dimensions 从游客的角度体验美食节:智力、感官和社会维度
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-18 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2124729
J. Leer, Lene Granzau Juel-Jacobsen
Abstract In recent decades, food festivals have gained popularity across the world. Previous research demonstrates a great diversity in visitors’ motivation and experiences at food festivals. It includes mostly quantitative as well as a few qualitative studies, but we are still lacking in-depth knowledge about visitors’ food festival experiences. This knowledge is important for the practical organization of future food festivals, but also for food studies scholars to help them understand the exact nature and value of a food festival experience. This paper explores the diversity of food festival visitors’ experiences via semi-structured qualitative interviews with participants, supplemented by digital photos taken by them at the Danish food festival Madens Folkemøde 2019. The findings suggest a great diversity in visitors’ experiences, categorized in the article as intellectual, sensory, and social experiences and these three categories are proposed as an analytical framework for future studies.
摘要近几十年来,美食节在世界各地越来越受欢迎。先前的研究表明,游客在美食节上的动机和体验存在很大的多样性。它主要包括定量研究和一些定性研究,但我们仍然缺乏对游客美食节体验的深入了解。这些知识对未来美食节的实际组织很重要,但对美食研究学者来说也很重要,帮助他们了解美食节体验的确切性质和价值。本文通过对参与者的半结构化定性采访,以及他们在2019年丹麦美食节Madens Folkemøde上拍摄的数字照片,探讨了美食节游客体验的多样性。研究结果表明,游客的体验有很大的多样性,文章将其分为智力、感官和社会体验,这三类是未来研究的分析框架。
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引用次数: 0
Ordinary overflow: Food waste and the ethics of the refrigerator 普通溢出:食物浪费与冰箱伦理
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089828
A. Salonen
Abstract This article analyzes the role of the refrigerator in how food becomes waste in socio-material and ethico-cultural practices. The modern food refrigeration technologies and practices have extended food’s useability time. They have transformed ordinary life by allowing households to store ample amounts of fresh food. However, this study suggests that fridges merit more attention not only in terms of reducing food waste, but in efforts to understand how food waste comes into being. This article draws from an analysis of qualitative interviews with ordinary people in Canada and Finland to show that refrigerators are important agents in the moral narrative of food waste: They provide a concrete space where food becomes waste, a justification for food becoming waste, and a material reference point through which people can talk about wider cultural patterns, moral norms, and ordinary ethical dilemmas tied to food waste. Technical devices such as refrigerators do not alone create or solve the problem of food waste, but they are relevant to the ethics of wasting food. Focusing on the fridge helps to show how human and non-human material worlds are entangled and how an overflowing fridge can structure, illustrate, facilitate, and contribute to human ethical conduct related to food waste in a significant way.
摘要本文分析了冰箱在社会物质和民族文化实践中食物如何成为浪费的作用。现代食品冷藏技术和实践延长了食品的使用时间。它们通过让家庭储存充足的新鲜食物,改变了日常生活。然而,这项研究表明,冰箱不仅在减少食物浪费方面值得更多关注,而且在努力了解食物浪费是如何产生的方面也值得关注。本文通过对加拿大和芬兰普通民众的定性访谈进行分析,表明冰箱在食物浪费的道德叙事中扮演着重要的角色:冰箱为食物浪费提供了一个具体的空间,为食物浪费提供了一个理由,也是一个物质参考点,通过它,人们可以谈论更广泛的文化模式、道德规范和与食物浪费有关的普通伦理困境。像冰箱这样的技术设备本身并不能造成或解决食物浪费的问题,但它们与浪费食物的伦理有关。关注冰箱有助于展示人类和非人类的物质世界是如何纠缠在一起的,以及一个满溢的冰箱如何以一种重要的方式构建、说明、促进和促进与食物浪费相关的人类道德行为。
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引用次数: 3
Emily Contois, Diners Dudes & Diet: How Gender and Power Collide in Food Media and Culture (University of North Carolina Press, 2020) 艾米丽·康托伊斯,食客和饮食:性别和权力如何在食品媒体和文化中碰撞(北卡罗来纳大学出版社,2020年)
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2094108
R. Cleves
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引用次数: 0
Size, color, and freshness: Standards and heritage of native potatoes in Peru 大小,颜色和新鲜度:秘鲁本土土豆的标准和传统
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-06-27 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089826
Jose Luis Fajardo‐Escoffié
Abstract Peru is the center of origin and diversity of more than 3,000 varieties of native potatoes although only a few varieties are typically consumed beyond the Andean region. Drawing on 14 months of ethnographic research, I explore the role of standards of size, quality, and colors as well as documents like invoices in formalizing and mobilizing the potatoes in the market. I argue that these standards and documents together with economic sociability serve as an important strategy to add value to native potatoes from their production in Ayacucho to their distribution in Lima. By keeping the ethnographic eye on the construction and negotiation of those standards, I show the fragility, the risks, the opportunities, and the power relationships that emerge along the native potato chain.
秘鲁是3000多种本地马铃薯的原产地和多样性中心,尽管只有少数品种在安第斯地区以外的地区被典型消费。在14个月的人种学研究中,我探索了大小、质量和颜色标准以及发票等文件在马铃薯市场正规化和动员中的作用。我认为,这些标准和文件与经济社交性一起,是一项重要的战略,可以为从阿亚库乔生产到利马分销的本地马铃薯增加价值。通过对这些标准的构建和谈判保持民族志的关注,我展示了脆弱性,风险,机会,以及沿着本土土豆链出现的权力关系。
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引用次数: 2
“Mommy-see, mommy-do”: perceptions of intergenerational “obesity” transmission among lower-income, higher-weight, rural midwestern American women “妈妈看,妈妈做”:对美国中西部低收入、高体重农村妇女代际“肥胖”传播的看法
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-06-24 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2022.2089825
A. Bombak, E. Robinson, Katherine Hughes, N. Riediger, L. Thomson
Abstract Public health and media discourses frequently blame mothers for the size of their children, including parents coping with multiple structural disadvantages. Rural Midwestern American, low-income, self-identified higher-weight women (n = 25) participated in face-to-face, audio-recorded, semi-structured interviews about their beliefs regarding how body size is transmitted across generations. We analyzed interviews using causation coding. Participants facing socioeconomic and geographic barriers to salutogenic lifestyles de-emphasized genetic and epigenetic factors in body size. Instead, participants focused on parents’ role modeling, provision of “obesogenic” foods, and failure to enact protective behaviors like providing non-“obesogenic” foods and limiting children’s screen time. Findings demonstrate that the moralization of childhood “obesity” is pervasive, and these damaging discourses have been taken up among those facing socioeconomic disadvantage.
摘要公共卫生和媒体话语经常将孩子的体型归咎于母亲,包括应对多重结构性劣势的父母。美国中西部农村、低收入、自认为体重较高的女性(n = 25)参加了面对面的、录音的、半结构化的采访,了解他们对体型如何代代相传的看法。我们使用因果关系编码分析访谈。面对社会经济和地理障碍的参与者不重视体型中的遗传和表观遗传因素。相反,参与者关注的是父母的角色塑造,提供“致肥胖”食物,以及未能制定保护行为,如提供非“致肥胖的”食物和限制儿童的屏幕时间。研究结果表明,对儿童“肥胖”的道德化是普遍存在的,这些破坏性的话语已经被那些面临社会经济劣势的人所接受。
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引用次数: 0
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Food and Foodways
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