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Fascist foodways: Ricettari as propaganda for grain production and sexual reproduction 法西斯的饮食方式:Ricettari作为粮食生产和有性繁殖的宣传
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-04-26 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1901384
Diana Garvin
Abstract Food connects people and land, a link that the Italian Fascist regime exploited through their seizure of local culinary culture for the promotion of national demographic goals. This article traces the connections between the regime’s concurrent drives for food production and sexual reproduction. It will show the propagandistic potential of recipes, and also the limits of top-down dietary change under dictatorship. Ricettari, propagandistic recipe pamphlets, blended public politics and private practices into a heady cocktail, one that cast autarkic cookery and sexual reproduction as valuable contributions to the Fascist state. These documents establish a clear link between the regime’s demographic policy and the autarkic campaigns in favor of Italian grain production. Cooking, the professed subject of ricettari, conveyed political neutrality—it falsely marked the documents as feminine and innocuous. So too did design: small and light, these stapled leaflets could be easily rolled up and stuck in an apron pocket. Portability thus insured that these documents could cross the threshold from the public rally to the private kitchen. Once there, they could directly address women, and attempt to modify their daily habits in ways that would change the body from the inside out. At stake in the ricettari lies a broader contribution to Food Studies in terms of food and politics: this unique form of ephemera reveals that the Italian Fascist regime took a pronatalist approach to cuisine.
摘要食物连接着人和土地,意大利法西斯政权通过夺取当地烹饪文化来促进国家人口目标,从而利用了这种联系。这篇文章追溯了该政权同时推动粮食生产和有性生殖之间的联系。它将展示食谱的宣传潜力,以及独裁统治下自上而下的饮食变化的局限性。Ricettari是一本宣传食谱小册子,将公共政治和私人实践融入了一种令人兴奋的鸡尾酒中,将自给自足的烹饪和性生殖视为对法西斯国家的宝贵贡献。这些文件在政权的人口政策和支持意大利粮食生产的自给自足运动之间建立了明确的联系。烹饪,这门饭的主题,传达了政治中立——它错误地将文件标记为女性化和无害。设计也是如此:这些装订好的传单小巧轻便,可以很容易地卷起并卡在围裙口袋里。因此,可携带性确保了这些文件可以跨越从公众集会到私人厨房的门槛。一旦到了那里,他们就可以直接称呼女性,并试图改变她们的日常习惯,从内到外改变身体。ricettari餐厅在食品和政治方面对食品研究做出了更广泛的贡献:这种独特的昙花一现表明,意大利法西斯政权对美食采取了一种前生主义的做法。
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引用次数: 2
What’s good to eat? Moral economy of children’s food in Poland’s capital 有什么好吃的?波兰首都儿童食品的道德经济
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-03-25 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1901381
Zofia Boni
Abstract The heightened tensions around what children eat, that occur in many places of the world, signify a changing moral economy of children’s food. Together with food, many emotions and sentiments, as well as judgements and expectations, circulate among people and institutions. Particular food products become valued as good or bad because they are consumed by children. Children, and their mothers, are considered to be proper people because they eat specific food. This article identifies two processes that shaped the moral economy of children’s food in Poland: a shift from an economy of shortage to an economy of abundance during post-socialism, and an emphasis on healthism and healthy food during post-EU-accession. These changes shaped institutional approaches to and discourses on food, as well as people’s food practices, amplifying emotions around and tensions between different hierarchies of food values. And through processes of individualization and responsibilization they placed particular pressure on mothers. Based on ethnographic research conducted in Warsaw in 2012-13, and revisits conducted in 2018-19, the article connects public debates and large-scale politics to family foodways, showing how moral economy of food is enacted through adults and children’ daily practices.
摘要世界上许多地方发生的围绕儿童饮食的紧张局势加剧,意味着儿童食品的道德经济正在发生变化。与食物一起,许多情绪和情感,以及判断和期望,在人们和机构之间传播。特定的食品因为被儿童食用而被视为好的或坏的。孩子和他们的母亲被认为是合适的人,因为他们吃特定的食物。本文确定了塑造波兰儿童食品道德经济的两个过程:后社会主义时期从短缺经济向富裕经济的转变,以及加入欧盟后对健康主义和健康食品的强调。这些变化塑造了对食物的制度方法和话语,以及人们的食物实践,放大了不同食物价值等级之间的情绪和紧张关系。通过个体化和反应化的过程,她们给母亲施加了特别的压力。基于2012-13年在华沙进行的民族志研究,以及2018-19年进行的回顾,这篇文章将公共辩论和大规模政治与家庭饮食方式联系起来,展示了食物的道德经济是如何通过成人和儿童的日常实践来实现的。
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引用次数: 1
Can selling traditional food increase food sovereignty for First Nations in northwestern Ontario (Canada)? 出售传统食品可以增加安大略省西北部原住民的粮食主权吗?
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-03-25 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1901385
Keira A. Loukes, Celeste Ferreira, Janice Cindy Gaudet, M. Robidoux
Abstract The disparity between rates of food insecurity experienced in households across Canada (8.3%) and in Indigenous households specifically (nearly half) is alarming. Many previous studies have demonstrated the physical, spiritual, mental, social and emotional benefits of consuming traditional foods (primarily wild animal food sources and wild edible plants), yet many Indigenous peoples in northern Ontario feel they do not have access to enough of them. Our research engaged in conversation with sixteen participants from four different First Nations communities in northern Ontario to explore the potential application of Greenland’s “Country Food Market” (CFM) as a model to increase accessibility of traditional food while maintaining community sovereignty over the resource. In this model, full-time hunters are financially sustained through selling their harvest at local markets. While participants were curious about the potential an economy around traditional food could have for improving access, this was tempered by cultural ethics, teachings and laws which instruct hunters to share their food and by concerns of resource overexploitation. As our research confirms, conversations and actions must move away from a binary approach to the question—either to sell or not to sell—and move toward a diverse range of economic models that center Indigenous peoples’ sovereignty.
加拿大家庭(8.3%)和土著家庭(近一半)的粮食不安全率之间的差距令人担忧。许多先前的研究已经证明,食用传统食物(主要是野生动物食物来源和野生可食用植物)对身体、精神、心理、社会和情感都有好处,但安大略省北部的许多土著人民觉得他们没有足够的机会获得这些食物。我们的研究与来自安大略省北部四个不同的第一民族社区的16名参与者进行了对话,以探索格陵兰“乡村食品市场”(CFM)作为一种模式的潜在应用,以增加传统食品的可及性,同时保持社区对资源的主权。在这种模式下,全职猎人通过在当地市场出售他们的收获来维持经济。虽然参与者对围绕传统食物发展经济的潜力感到好奇,但由于文化伦理、教导和法律要求猎人分享他们的食物,以及对资源过度开发的担忧,这种想法受到了抑制。正如我们的研究证实的那样,对话和行动必须摆脱对这个问题的二元态度——要么卖,要么不卖——而转向以土著人民主权为中心的多种经济模式。
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引用次数: 4
A broader palate? The new and exotic food experiences of the Australian imperial force 1914–1918 口味更广?1914-1918年澳大利亚帝国军队的新式异国美食体验
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-03-23 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1901387
D. Reynaud, E. Reynaud
Abstract This article explores the new food experiences of the Australian Imperial Force (AIF) during the First World War, drawing evidence from scholarly works, archives and soldier accounts. Having come from a predominantly British food culture in Australia, the AIF encountered new tastes and eating habits in the Middle East and Europe, which they experienced in dual roles as soldiers and tourists. Some soldiers responded warmly while others reacted defensively to these new foodways such as self-catering, exotic ingredients and dishes, regular dining out and new food customs. The lack of long-term impact of these novel experiences on Australian foodways is also noted.
摘要本文从学术著作、档案和士兵的叙述中汲取证据,探讨了第一次世界大战期间澳大利亚帝国军队(AIF)的新食物体验。AIF来自澳大利亚以英国为主的饮食文化,在中东和欧洲遇到了新的口味和饮食习惯,他们以士兵和游客的双重角色体验到了这一点。一些士兵反应热烈,而另一些士兵则对这些新的饮食方式做出了防御反应,如自助、异国食材和菜肴、定期外出就餐和新的饮食习惯。人们还注意到,这些新奇的经历对澳大利亚的饮食方式缺乏长期影响。
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引用次数: 0
Reflection: An update on China’s wild meat consumption since COVID-19 反思:自2019冠状病毒病以来中国野生肉类消费的最新情况
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-03-22 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1901391
Junfan Lin
Abstract Wildlife consumption in China has been widely condemned by academics and the public since COVID-19 was determined to have a zoonotic source by the World Health Organization. This reflection piece provides an up-to-date summary of wild meat consumption in China since COVID-19. It shows that there is an all-round transition underway. COVID-19 stopped wild meat consumption directly or made an impact by functioning as a new background or event. People’s demand has been reduced due to strict law enforcement, fines, and profound propaganda efforts. This has implications for controlling wildlife trade and consumption in some other countries similar to China. This reflection particularly re-interprets the motivations of consumers of wild meat since the outbreak of the disease and considers the reasons why people do not consume wildlife. This might be the first empirical work on China’s wild meat consumption before and after COVID-19, which explores the transformation around this eating habit and makes a few evidence-based predictions. Although there are good signs that we can expect an effective reduction of China’s wild meat consumption in the future, there is the call for a well-established legal system and strict implementation of laws and other strategies, and a widespread consumer education in food habits.
摘要自从世界卫生组织确定新冠肺炎有人畜共患源以来,中国的野生动物消费受到了学术界和公众的广泛谴责。这篇反思文章提供了自新冠肺炎以来中国野生肉类消费的最新总结。这表明正在进行一个全面的过渡。新冠肺炎直接停止了野生肉类消费,或通过作为新的背景或事件发挥作用而产生影响。由于严格的执法、罚款和深入的宣传,人们的需求已经减少。这对控制与中国类似的其他一些国家的野生动物贸易和消费有影响。这一反思尤其重新解释了自疾病爆发以来野生肉类消费者的动机,并考虑了人们不食用野生动物的原因。这可能是第一份关于新冠肺炎前后中国野生肉类消费的实证研究,该研究探索了这种饮食习惯的转变,并做出了一些基于证据的预测。尽管有好的迹象表明,我们可以期待在未来有效减少中国的野生肉类消费,但有人呼吁建立一个完善的法律体系,严格执行法律和其他战略,并广泛开展消费者饮食习惯教育。
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引用次数: 5
Reflection: Snatched Commensality: To eat or not to eat together in times of Covid-19 in France 反思:被抢走的共栖性:在法国新冠肺炎疫情期间,一起吃饭还是不一起吃饭
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-03-22 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1901383
E. Fourat, T. Fournier, Olivier Lepiller
Abstract During the Covid-19 pandemic, the French Government imposed a strict lockdown from March 17th to May 11th 2020. These extraordinary times challenged the social norm of commensality, a practice that is particularly strong and engrained in France. How has lockdown impacted meal-sharing habits? How have the rules and norms of commensality withstood the weakening of social bonds caused by lockdown? Based on a qualitative study of 20 socially diverse households, this essay proposes a typology of adaptive commensal eating patterns: 1) Eating together can provide reassurance by reproducing ordinary routines or by enacting food traditions; 2) Tinkering with lockdown rules leads to creative new forms of commensality, or to an ersatz of commensality; 3) Sharing every meal with the same people can trigger the rejection of commensal practices. These patterns may also represent possible phases in the experience of lockdown, since some individuals shifted from one pattern to another. The final part of the paper discusses the very nature of the social link highlighted through the lens of commensality.
摘要在新冠肺炎大流行期间,法国政府于2020年3月17日至5月11日实施了严格的封锁。这些非同寻常的时代挑战了普遍性的社会规范,这种做法在法国尤为强烈和根深蒂固。封锁对共享用餐习惯有何影响?共同性的规则和规范是如何经受住封锁导致的社会纽带削弱的?基于对20个社会多元化家庭的定性研究,本文提出了一种适应性共生饮食模式的类型:1)一起吃饭可以通过重现日常生活或制定饮食传统来提供保证;2) 篡改封锁规则会导致创造性的新形式的共同性,或者导致共同性的模仿;3) 与同一个人分享每顿饭可能会引发对相互指责做法的拒绝。这些模式也可能代表封锁经历的可能阶段,因为一些人从一种模式转移到另一种模式。论文的最后一部分讨论了通过共同性的视角突出的社会联系的本质。
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引用次数: 7
Eat Your TeaTM: the unexpected and unfinished intercultural history of fermented tea leaf salad (laphet thoke) 吃你的茶:发酵茶叶沙拉的意外和未完成的跨文化历史(laphet thoke)
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2020-12-12 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1862541
Erin L. Hasinoff
Abstract “Who would have thought that out of all the dishes on our menu, Americans would go nuts for a salad mixed with a dark savory paste of fermented tea?” The demand for Burma Superstar’s laphet thoke (fermented tea leaf salad) came initially as a surprise to San Francisco-restaurateur Desmond Tan. By 2018 the restaurant’s fermented tea leaf salad was the fourth most popular restaurant item in the country on Yelp. The dish’s nascent stardom is a dramatic departure from a colonial-era description of its key ingredient, laphet (fermented tea), as a “putrescent mass of smashed up leaves.” Witnessing the success of Burma Superstar’s laphet thoke, and a crescendo of interest in Burmese cuisine following Myanmar’s democratic reforms in 2012, an array of American restaurants has offered various versions of it, and dozens of food writers have been quick to publish recipes for it. In spite of the salad’s new-found cult following, laphet has remained rare for chefs and home cooks. This article focuses on laphet thoke, and argues that its origins, material properties, and culinary innovations have contributed to its popularity among American foodies. And, through the example of Tan’s adaptations of the salad and its key ingredient, this piece reveals the processes by which some exotic foods are modified and materialize as trendy fare.
摘要:“谁能想到,在我们菜单上的所有菜肴中,美国人会疯狂地选择一种混合了黑色美味的发酵茶酱的沙拉?”对缅甸超级明星的laphet thoke(发酵茶叶沙拉)的需求最初令旧金山餐馆老板Desmond Tan感到惊讶。到2018年,这家餐厅的发酵茶叶沙拉在Yelp上成为美国第四大最受欢迎的餐厅菜品。这道菜的新星与殖民时代对其主要原料laphet(发酵茶)的描述大相径庭,后者被描述为“一团腐烂的碎叶子”。目睹了缅甸超级明星(Burma Superstar)的煎饼火的成功,以及2012年缅甸民主改革后人们对缅甸菜的兴趣日益浓厚,一大批美国餐馆推出了各种版本的煎饼火,数十位美食作家很快就发布了煎饼火的食谱。尽管沙拉最近受到追捧,但laphet对厨师和家庭厨师来说仍然很少见。这篇文章的重点是笔记本thoke,并认为它的起源、材料特性和烹饪创新促成了它在美国美食家中的流行。通过谭对沙拉及其关键食材的改造,这件作品揭示了一些外来食物被改造并成为时尚美食的过程。
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引用次数: 1
Reflection: Airbnb's food-related “online experiences”: a recipe for connection and escape 反思:Airbnb与食物相关的“在线体验”:连接和逃离的秘诀
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2020-12-12 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1862547
Irene Cenni, Camilla Vásquez
Abstract During the global COVID pandemic, cooking and baking have reemerged as popular at-home pastimes. In this essay, we focus on digital cooking classes offered by Airbnb. Responding to restrictions on physical mobility, as well as to the sudden demand for leisure activities which could be experienced from one’s home, in early April 2020, Airbnb launched a new service called “Online Experiences” (OEs). While the types of OEs offered on the platform are varied, approximately 30% center around digitally mediated food-preparation. Through our thematic analysis of consumer reviews of OEs, we explore how participants perceive and conceptualize these new digital food-related experiences. Our close analysis of review texts finds that many OE participants discuss these online food activities in terms of digital commensality, highlighting the social connectedness promoted by the act of cooking or baking when performed as a joint action online. In this innovative context, online food-related experiences appear to also stimulate a sense of ‘virtual travel.’
在全球COVID大流行期间,烹饪和烘焙重新成为流行的家庭娱乐方式。在这篇文章中,我们关注的是Airbnb提供的数字烹饪课程。2020年4月初,为了应对对身体流动性的限制,以及对可以在家中体验的休闲活动的突然需求,Airbnb推出了一项名为“在线体验”(OEs)的新服务。虽然平台上提供的OEs类型多种多样,但大约30%的OEs以数字媒介的食品制备为中心。通过对消费者评价的专题分析,我们探索了参与者如何感知和概念化这些新的数字食品相关体验。我们对评论文本的仔细分析发现,许多OE参与者从数字共通性的角度讨论这些在线食品活动,强调了烹饪或烘焙作为在线联合行动所促进的社会联系。在这种创新的背景下,与美食相关的在线体验似乎也激发了一种“虚拟旅行”的感觉。
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引用次数: 12
Italian Food Activism in Urban Sardinia. Place, Taste, and Community 意大利撒丁岛城市的食物行动主义。地点、品味和社区
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2020-12-08 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1860459
Steffan Igor Ayora‐Diaz
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引用次数: 1
Reflection: Making kin with sourdough during a pandemic 反思:在流感大流行期间用酵母制作亲缘
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2020-12-08 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1860336
Laura Siragusa
Abstract Relying on auto-ethnography, I reflect on the role sourdough and bread-making practices have played during the COVID-19 pandemic. I explore the agency of a non-human entity—the sourdough—and the relations that emerge from nurturing it. In particular, I inquire what living relationally means for me—a professional migrant—in a time that is not only challenging, due to the pandemic and consequent lockdown away from my country of origin, but which has also forced me to proactively and creatively respond to being in a precarious employment. Sourdough and bread-making practices have allowed me to create, recreate, and reinforce new and existing relations. I, thus, indicate to what extent such practices activate kin making and knowledge making, whilst counterbalancing the alienation and distress that come from experiencing a pandemic.
摘要依靠汽车摄影,我反思了酸面团和面包制作实践在新冠肺炎大流行期间发挥的作用。我探索了一个非人类实体——酸面团——的能动性,以及培养它所产生的关系。特别是,我想知道,在一个充满挑战的时代,生活在关系上对我——一个职业移民——意味着什么,因为疫情和随之而来的远离原籍国的封锁,但这也迫使我积极而创造性地应对不稳定的就业。Sourdough和面包制作实践让我能够创造、重建和加强新的和现有的关系。I、 因此,表明这种做法在多大程度上激活了亲属关系和知识创造,同时抵消了经历疫情带来的疏离感和痛苦。
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引用次数: 3
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