Pub Date : 2020-12-07DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1860328
Christine Knight, J. Shipman
Abstract In this paper we use duoethnography (collaborative autoethnography) to explore food in our migration experiences between Australia and Scotland. In doing so we highlight how autoethnography is underutilized in food scholarship. Previous research on food and migration highlights how migrants maintain and adapt homeland foodways. By contrast, we show how young migrants from high-income countries embed themselves in new food settings: through local food shopping, new recipes, cooking practices, and eating out. We demonstrate the importance to migrants’ food experiences of family relationships, ideas of home, processes of home-making, and changing individual identities. We argue that scholars should attend further to food in voluntary migrations amongst English-speaking nations in the contemporary globalized era. Further, we conclude that duoethnography amongst trusted friends who are also scholars offers a particularly valuable and appropriate method to probe emotional, sensory, and embodied aspects of food experience.
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Pub Date : 2020-10-01DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1826714
Ariana Gunderson
Abstract In August, 2020 in San Francisco, everyone, and every restaurant, was just trying to survive the COVID-19 pandemic. Then, three clear plastic domes popped up in front of Hashiri, a Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant on Mint Plaza; Hashiri’s manager explained to reporters that these domes ensconcing wealthy diners were chosen to keep unhoused neighbors out of sight and out of the way. Around the corner, unhoused San Franciscans slept in tents on the sidewalk. Tents and domes alike create private space in public on public land, but the city’s emergency policies in response to the COVID-19 pandemic legitimized only the rights of businesses and wealthy customers to privatize Mint Plaza for commerce and enjoyment. In this study of Hashiri’s domes on Mint Plaza, I recount a story of the San Francisco government re-entrenching the rights of wealthy restaurant-goers to enjoy, inhabit, and make profit on public space, while neglecting unhoused residents on the same block.
{"title":"The illegitimate tent: Private use of public space at a San Francisco restaurant","authors":"Ariana Gunderson","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1826714","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826714","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In August, 2020 in San Francisco, everyone, and every restaurant, was just trying to survive the COVID-19 pandemic. Then, three clear plastic domes popped up in front of Hashiri, a Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant on Mint Plaza; Hashiri’s manager explained to reporters that these domes ensconcing wealthy diners were chosen to keep unhoused neighbors out of sight and out of the way. Around the corner, unhoused San Franciscans slept in tents on the sidewalk. Tents and domes alike create private space in public on public land, but the city’s emergency policies in response to the COVID-19 pandemic legitimized only the rights of businesses and wealthy customers to privatize Mint Plaza for commerce and enjoyment. In this study of Hashiri’s domes on Mint Plaza, I recount a story of the San Francisco government re-entrenching the rights of wealthy restaurant-goers to enjoy, inhabit, and make profit on public space, while neglecting unhoused residents on the same block.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826714","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44818147","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-10-01DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1826717
T. Matejowsky
Abstract Over the past two decades, the Philippines’ leading restaurant brand, Jollibee, has made significant inroads into America’s quick-service dining scene. While previous scholarship has charted the chain’s phenomenal rise domestically, few accounts detail the company’s growing international standing much less discuss its ongoing expansion into major American cities beginning in the late 1990s. In this article, I examine Jollibee’s continuing spread outside of the Philippines, chronicling its efforts to establish a viable U.S. market presence whether by launching eponymous outlets at the local level or purchasing partial or majority interest in quick-service restaurant brands already operating stateside. The direct influx of foreign capital from these overseas operators to secure full or majority ownership of some of America’s most enduring and emergent quick-service eateries plays an equally transformative if more inconspicuous role than opening their own U.S. outlets in what I term “next-stage fast food globalization.” Fieldwork at two Jollibee locations—one in the Philippines and the other in the United States—provides comparative dimension and granularity to this food studies analysis. Relevant concepts from contemporary media studies (flows and contra-flows) and international marketing (diaspora marketing) help situate research findings within a broader theoretical framework.
{"title":"What’s all the buzz about? Jollibee, diaspora marketing, and next-stage fast food globalization","authors":"T. Matejowsky","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1826717","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826717","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Over the past two decades, the Philippines’ leading restaurant brand, Jollibee, has made significant inroads into America’s quick-service dining scene. While previous scholarship has charted the chain’s phenomenal rise domestically, few accounts detail the company’s growing international standing much less discuss its ongoing expansion into major American cities beginning in the late 1990s. In this article, I examine Jollibee’s continuing spread outside of the Philippines, chronicling its efforts to establish a viable U.S. market presence whether by launching eponymous outlets at the local level or purchasing partial or majority interest in quick-service restaurant brands already operating stateside. The direct influx of foreign capital from these overseas operators to secure full or majority ownership of some of America’s most enduring and emergent quick-service eateries plays an equally transformative if more inconspicuous role than opening their own U.S. outlets in what I term “next-stage fast food globalization.” Fieldwork at two Jollibee locations—one in the Philippines and the other in the United States—provides comparative dimension and granularity to this food studies analysis. Relevant concepts from contemporary media studies (flows and contra-flows) and international marketing (diaspora marketing) help situate research findings within a broader theoretical framework.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826717","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47191250","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-10-01DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1826710
N. Cooke
Abstract In 1981 friends and female entrepreneurs Virginia Limansky and Ann Wilder launched a boutique spice business in Baltimore. The company’s name was a fusion of their first names, Virginia and Ann, and the business initially developed out of their home kitchens. Vanns created popular spice blends of high quality and flourished despite being located in the shadow of nearby spice giant McCormick. It began by offering six spice blends; today the company boasts over 350 spices, herbs and seasoning blends. By focusing on Vanns’ first years, this study first explores what prompted one of its female co-founders to create its foundational spice blends and then withdraw from the enterprise precisely as the business took flight. Next it looks to what circumstances contributed to the business’ early success, and with only one exception, to ways these women entrepreneurs found to transform potential obstacles to Vanns’ success into business opportunities. Finally, this story of Vanns, incorporating detail available through recent access to Val Limansky’s private papers and personal interviews, reintroduces Val Limansky to the story of the business she co-founded, which continues to operate in Maryland today. It also adds particularity to existing accounts of Baltimore’s social and food landscape in the 80s, and of the gourmetization of foodways in America during the 80s and 90s.
{"title":"Vanns spices: Blending food, women’s friendship and business in 1980s Baltimore","authors":"N. Cooke","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1826710","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826710","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In 1981 friends and female entrepreneurs Virginia Limansky and Ann Wilder launched a boutique spice business in Baltimore. The company’s name was a fusion of their first names, Virginia and Ann, and the business initially developed out of their home kitchens. Vanns created popular spice blends of high quality and flourished despite being located in the shadow of nearby spice giant McCormick. It began by offering six spice blends; today the company boasts over 350 spices, herbs and seasoning blends. By focusing on Vanns’ first years, this study first explores what prompted one of its female co-founders to create its foundational spice blends and then withdraw from the enterprise precisely as the business took flight. Next it looks to what circumstances contributed to the business’ early success, and with only one exception, to ways these women entrepreneurs found to transform potential obstacles to Vanns’ success into business opportunities. Finally, this story of Vanns, incorporating detail available through recent access to Val Limansky’s private papers and personal interviews, reintroduces Val Limansky to the story of the business she co-founded, which continues to operate in Maryland today. It also adds particularity to existing accounts of Baltimore’s social and food landscape in the 80s, and of the gourmetization of foodways in America during the 80s and 90s.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826710","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44040002","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-10-01DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1826711
Carole Counihan
We are excited to publish the following “Reflection” on “Food and the Pandemic” in response to our Call for Papers. “Reflections” are short, peppy essays about topics of contemporary interest; they...
{"title":"Special section: “Reflections on food and the pandemic”","authors":"Carole Counihan","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1826711","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826711","url":null,"abstract":"We are excited to publish the following “Reflection” on “Food and the Pandemic” in response to our Call for Papers. “Reflections” are short, peppy essays about topics of contemporary interest; they...","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138503946","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-10-01DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1826734
J. S. Mckenzie, D. Watts
Abstract The healthfulness of the populations’ diets has long been a concern in Scotland. However, despite policies aimed at improving the healthfulness of people’s diet, it remains poor. The failure of these policies to bring about desired changes is partly because the relationship between dietary advice, understandings of it and the healthfulness of food practices is complex. The Scottish Government funded a phenomenological study of thirty-one adults to understand the populations’ food practices and, drawing on interviews and food diaries, this paper reports emergent findings that illustrate how some participants construct and maintain food practices they perceive to be healthful and appear to show consistency with dietary guidelines whilst others struggle. Research data were thematically analyzed and interviews revealed participants’ reported food rules that appeared to show consistencies with nutritional guidelines. Interviews and food diaries also revealed that participants broke their food rules which resulted in less healthful eating patterns. The results suggest that those participants who routinize rules for breaking food rules achieved eating patterns that they perceived to be healthier than those who did not.
{"title":"Food ideals, food rules and the subjective construction of a healthy diet","authors":"J. S. Mckenzie, D. Watts","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1826734","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826734","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The healthfulness of the populations’ diets has long been a concern in Scotland. However, despite policies aimed at improving the healthfulness of people’s diet, it remains poor. The failure of these policies to bring about desired changes is partly because the relationship between dietary advice, understandings of it and the healthfulness of food practices is complex. The Scottish Government funded a phenomenological study of thirty-one adults to understand the populations’ food practices and, drawing on interviews and food diaries, this paper reports emergent findings that illustrate how some participants construct and maintain food practices they perceive to be healthful and appear to show consistency with dietary guidelines whilst others struggle. Research data were thematically analyzed and interviews revealed participants’ reported food rules that appeared to show consistencies with nutritional guidelines. Interviews and food diaries also revealed that participants broke their food rules which resulted in less healthful eating patterns. The results suggest that those participants who routinize rules for breaking food rules achieved eating patterns that they perceived to be healthier than those who did not.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826734","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43210752","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-10-01DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1826709
Tyler S Bunzey
Abstract This essay will interrogate how hip-hop—a form whose sound is not only connected to but defined by ideas of place—uses food and place as discursive objects to construct notions Southern urban particularity. Reading soul food as both a national cuisine symbolizing Black resilience in the face of institutional racial violence and a local cuisine that can symbolize the particularity of place, I argue that Southern hip-hop melds sound, taste, and place to construct Southern urban identity. I argue that this tension is maintained on a discursive plane in which each representational object—music, place, or food—articulates locally specific identity while resonating within a broader diasporic identifications. Looking specifically at Goodie Mob’s Soul Food (Atlanta), Bun B’s Instagram series “#TrillMealz” (Houston), and Lil’ Wayne’s Tha Carter II (New Orleans) this essay explores how place, food, and hip-hop function as representational objects of identity that are dependent on one another to articulate the place-specific urban identities of Southern cities.
摘要本文将探讨嘻哈音乐——一种声音不仅与地方观念有关，而且由地方观念定义的形式——如何利用食物和地方作为话语对象来构建南方城市特殊性的概念。我认为，南方嘻哈融合了声音、味道和地方，构建了南方城市身份。我认为，这种张力是在一个话语层面上保持的，在这个层面上，每一个代表性的对象——音乐、地方或食物——都表达了当地特定的身份，同时在更广泛的散居身份中产生共鸣。具体来看Goodie Mob的《灵魂食物》（亚特兰大）、Bun B的Instagram系列《#TrillMealz》（休斯顿）和Lil’Wayne的《Tha Carter II》（新奥尔良），本文探讨了地方、食物和嘻哈是如何作为身份的代表对象发挥作用的，它们相互依赖，以表达南方城市特定于地方的城市身份。
{"title":"Sounding soul (food): The discursive interconnection of sound, food, and place in Southern hip-hop","authors":"Tyler S Bunzey","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1826709","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826709","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This essay will interrogate how hip-hop—a form whose sound is not only connected to but defined by ideas of place—uses food and place as discursive objects to construct notions Southern urban particularity. Reading soul food as both a national cuisine symbolizing Black resilience in the face of institutional racial violence and a local cuisine that can symbolize the particularity of place, I argue that Southern hip-hop melds sound, taste, and place to construct Southern urban identity. I argue that this tension is maintained on a discursive plane in which each representational object—music, place, or food—articulates locally specific identity while resonating within a broader diasporic identifications. Looking specifically at Goodie Mob’s Soul Food (Atlanta), Bun B’s Instagram series “#TrillMealz” (Houston), and Lil’ Wayne’s Tha Carter II (New Orleans) this essay explores how place, food, and hip-hop function as representational objects of identity that are dependent on one another to articulate the place-specific urban identities of Southern cities.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1826709","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45506961","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1790147
Bürge Abiral, Nurcan Atalan-Helicke
Abstract We share in this reflection a selection of our own daily experiences and observations from Turkey and the U.S. of how Covid-19 has affected people’s relationship to shopping for food. We aim to show the multiple shifts that occurred in the mechanisms of trust that used to define how food is procured. We illustrate how disruptions in conventional and alternative food supply chains in both countries have had different effects on consumers. Our experiences, when juxtaposed, suggest that even in the case of abundance of food supply, shorter food supply chains prove to be more resilient against disruptions during the pandemic.
{"title":"Trusting food supply chains during the pandemic: reflections from Turkey and the U.S.","authors":"Bürge Abiral, Nurcan Atalan-Helicke","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1790147","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1790147","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract We share in this reflection a selection of our own daily experiences and observations from Turkey and the U.S. of how Covid-19 has affected people’s relationship to shopping for food. We aim to show the multiple shifts that occurred in the mechanisms of trust that used to define how food is procured. We illustrate how disruptions in conventional and alternative food supply chains in both countries have had different effects on consumers. Our experiences, when juxtaposed, suggest that even in the case of abundance of food supply, shorter food supply chains prove to be more resilient against disruptions during the pandemic.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1790147","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45533718","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1790142
M. J. Montefrio
Abstract Interest in home gardening has burgeoned since governments around the world imposed lockdowns to suppress the spread of SARS-CoV-2. This essay reflects on the growth of home gardens in the locked-down Philippines by analyzing discourses in two home gardening interest groups in Facebook. A particularly salient discourse revolves around the notion of being a “productive” home gardener in a time of pandemic. While the “productive” home gardener discourse appears to be benign and even ideal, overemphasizing it disregards the nuances of class dynamics in home gardening. It also risks idealizing the role of the individual gardener as the solution to the crisis, thereby downplaying the importance of addressing broader structural issues in crisis management and food provisioning. In this essay, the author argues that home gardeners should move beyond the productivity discourse and instead focus on growing communities that are committed to inclusivity, while also acknowledging and supporting other initiatives that target structural issues.
{"title":"Interrogating the “productive” home gardener in a time of pandemic lockdown in the Philippines","authors":"M. J. Montefrio","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1790142","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1790142","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Interest in home gardening has burgeoned since governments around the world imposed lockdowns to suppress the spread of SARS-CoV-2. This essay reflects on the growth of home gardens in the locked-down Philippines by analyzing discourses in two home gardening interest groups in Facebook. A particularly salient discourse revolves around the notion of being a “productive” home gardener in a time of pandemic. While the “productive” home gardener discourse appears to be benign and even ideal, overemphasizing it disregards the nuances of class dynamics in home gardening. It also risks idealizing the role of the individual gardener as the solution to the crisis, thereby downplaying the importance of addressing broader structural issues in crisis management and food provisioning. In this essay, the author argues that home gardeners should move beyond the productivity discourse and instead focus on growing communities that are committed to inclusivity, while also acknowledging and supporting other initiatives that target structural issues.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1790142","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45192995","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810
Emily J. Arendt
Abstract This paper explores the history of jumbles, a type of cookies, through the duration of American history from the colonial period through today. The evolution of jumbles illustrates the ways that recipes have been continually adapted and put to a variety of political and social uses. In particular, this essay seeks to further debates in food studies over the nature of authenticity by exploring the constant recreation of a single recipe (the jumble) alongside the cultural factors that shaped a particular iteration of the cookie at a given moment in time (including but not limited to the American Revolution, the partisan political battles in the early 1800 s, post-Civil War anxieties over heritage and identity, or periods of rapid social change brought about by industrialization in the late 19th and early 20th century). Contextualizing recipes in a particular historical moment suggests that there is no true “historical authenticity” when it comes to cookery. Modern cooks who engage in historical cookery are instead creating dishes that are authentic to their own moment in time, not some essentialized version of the dish rooted in a mythic past. Nor, as the study of jumbles suggests, is this a new process. Exploring the relationship between social, economic, and political trends at key moments in the history of the jumble demonstrates that Americans have long engaged in the process of recreating nostalgic dishes in search of historical authenticity that says more about the taste preferences, political agendas, and social geographies of those cooks than those to whom they pay homage.
{"title":"All jumbled up: authenticity in American culinary history","authors":"Emily J. Arendt","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper explores the history of jumbles, a type of cookies, through the duration of American history from the colonial period through today. The evolution of jumbles illustrates the ways that recipes have been continually adapted and put to a variety of political and social uses. In particular, this essay seeks to further debates in food studies over the nature of authenticity by exploring the constant recreation of a single recipe (the jumble) alongside the cultural factors that shaped a particular iteration of the cookie at a given moment in time (including but not limited to the American Revolution, the partisan political battles in the early 1800 s, post-Civil War anxieties over heritage and identity, or periods of rapid social change brought about by industrialization in the late 19th and early 20th century). Contextualizing recipes in a particular historical moment suggests that there is no true “historical authenticity” when it comes to cookery. Modern cooks who engage in historical cookery are instead creating dishes that are authentic to their own moment in time, not some essentialized version of the dish rooted in a mythic past. Nor, as the study of jumbles suggests, is this a new process. Exploring the relationship between social, economic, and political trends at key moments in the history of the jumble demonstrates that Americans have long engaged in the process of recreating nostalgic dishes in search of historical authenticity that says more about the taste preferences, political agendas, and social geographies of those cooks than those to whom they pay homage.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49570312","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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