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What is enough on a plate? Professionals’ practices of providing an “adequate portion” in the food service sector 盘子里有什么足够?专业人员在食品服务部门提供“充足份额”的做法
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-10-18 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1984610
Benjamin Hennchen
Abstract The current systems of food production and consumption are not sustainable due to a high level of resource inefficiency, environmental pollution and unhealthy eating habits. This paper focuses on the issues of wasting food and overeating, which have received increasing attention in other recent studies on the food service sector. A majority of those studies look at the choices made by customers regarding portion size and the effect those choices have on consumed food and leftovers. Against this background, the current exploratory study addresses the professionals’ perspective on why and how they serve specific food amounts to customers. To answer this question, the study draws on qualitative research and an analytical framework derived from theories of practice. The results show that defining and providing adequacy depends on professionals’ prior knowledge, the gastronomic concept, reflections on health and pricing issues, prevailing kitchen infrastructures, work rhythms, and esthetics in food presentation. An explanatory model is further developed in order to categorize these factors in terms of work processes inside and outside of professional kitchens. These insights of portioning control allow to conclusively reflect on much needed strategies for reducing food waste and preventing excessive caloric intakes.
摘要由于资源效率低下、环境污染和不健康的饮食习惯,目前的食品生产和消费体系是不可持续的。这篇论文的重点是浪费食物和暴饮暴食的问题,这些问题在最近对食品服务部门的其他研究中越来越受到关注。这些研究中的大多数都着眼于顾客对份量的选择,以及这些选择对所吃食物和剩菜的影响。在这种背景下,目前的探索性研究从专业人士的角度探讨了他们为什么以及如何为顾客提供特定数量的食物。为了回答这个问题,本研究采用了定性研究和从实践理论中得出的分析框架。结果表明,定义和提供充分性取决于专业人员的先验知识、美食概念、对健康和定价问题的思考、普遍的厨房基础设施、工作节奏和食物展示的美学。为了根据专业厨房内外的工作流程对这些因素进行分类,进一步开发了一个解释模型。这些对分配控制的见解使我们能够最终反思减少食物浪费和防止热量摄入过多所急需的策略。
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引用次数: 1
Reflection: “It opened our eyes”: ethnographic encounters during the COVID-19 pandemic in Lisbon, Portugal 反思:“它开阔了我们的眼界”:葡萄牙里斯本2019冠状病毒病大流行期间的民族志遭遇
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-10-08 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1984558
Joana Catela
Abstract In 2020 and 2021, anthropologists confronted the obstacles of conducting fieldwork during the global COVID-19 pandemic. For months, we endured quarantine with others and grieved the loss what many consider the basis of our professional identity: participant observation. We were unable to predict how much our methodological toolkit would have to stretch and shrink to keep up with public health restrictions during a pandemic. We repeatedly asked ourselves: what, in fact, is ethnography and how can we do our work now? To address such a methodological predicament, this paper presents an ethnographic investigation conducted in the Lisbon Metropolitan Area during the summer of 2020 to show how several small-scale agricultural businesses managed to feed confined city dwellers during lockdown. Although concerns for these farmers’ dealings are practically absent from planning policies, they operate in the territory, changing the food system from within. This article also presents the pros and cons of investigating during a pandemic and the implications of reflexivity in the construction of ethnographic knowledge, even if our research needs to be done digitally and remotely for the time being.
2020年和2021年,人类学家在全球COVID-19大流行期间面临田野调查的障碍。几个月来,我们和其他人一起忍受隔离,为失去许多人认为我们职业身份的基础——参与观察——而悲伤。我们无法预测,在大流行期间,我们的方法工具需要扩展和缩小多少,才能跟上公共卫生限制的步伐。我们不断地问自己:什么是人种学?我们现在该如何做我们的工作?为了解决这种方法上的困境,本文介绍了2020年夏季在里斯本大都会区进行的一项民族志调查,以展示几家小规模农业企业如何在封锁期间为受限制的城市居民提供食物。尽管规划政策中几乎没有考虑到这些农民的交易,但他们在领土上运作,从内部改变了粮食系统。本文还介绍了在大流行期间进行调查的利弊,以及在人种学知识建设中反身性的影响,即使我们的研究暂时需要数字化和远程完成。
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引用次数: 1
Technologies and dietary change: the pharmaceutical nexus and the marketing of anti-aging functional food in a Chinese society 技术与饮食变化:药物关系与抗衰老功能食品在中国社会的营销
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-10-06 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1984523
Veronica Sau-wa Mak
Abstract At the turn of the 21st century, the demand for anti-aging functional milk among elderly Chinese people has become a major marketing success story in Hong Kong, even though most had never drunk milk prior to retiring and little scientific evidence supports the claims regarding the body-enhancing benefits derived from consuming specially formulated milk. This article examines the marketing and consumption of a technology-driven food—anti-aging formula milk—in Hong Kong, seeking to understand what draws the elderly to this functional food. Combining the theories of the pharmaceutical nexus, marketing semiotics, and emotion studies, the author investigates the pivotal roles of a network of actors—the scientists that endorse health claims, the government that normalizes milk consumption, and the global pharmaceuticals that generate fearful sensations regarding activity restrictions or immobility through marketing their formula milk products. Drawing on data from an analysis of in-depth interviews, health talks, and advertising materials, this article reveals the techniques by which anti-aging foods are promoted as the means for fashioning a physically fit self to maintain family and social networks, which are essential for the elderly to access emotional, social, and financial resources.
在21世纪之交,中国老年人对抗衰老功能牛奶的需求已成为香港一个重要的营销成功故事,尽管大多数人在退休前从未喝过牛奶,而且很少有科学证据支持饮用特制配方牛奶对身体有益的说法。本文考察了一种科技驱动的食品——抗衰老配方奶在香港的营销和消费情况,试图了解是什么吸引了老年人选择这种功能食品。结合制药关系、营销符号学和情感研究的理论,作者调查了一个行动者网络的关键角色——支持健康声明的科学家,规范牛奶消费的政府,以及通过营销配方奶产品而产生活动限制或不动恐惧感觉的全球制药公司。通过对深度访谈、健康谈话和广告材料的分析,本文揭示了抗衰老食品被宣传为塑造身体健康的自我的手段,以维持家庭和社会网络,这对老年人获得情感、社会和经济资源至关重要。
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引用次数: 2
Reflection: Food as pleasure or pressure? The care politics of the pandemic 反思:食物是快乐还是压力?大流行的护理政治
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943612
Meike Brückner, Sandra Čajić, Christine Bauhardt
Abstract Pleasure and pressure are two sides of the same coin when it comes to the unpaid care economy. Food is the lens through which we examine the Janus-faced character of care during the Covid-19 pandemic. Based on qualitative empirical findings, we argue that time is crucial to whether people experience ambivalence, joy or constraints in providing food for the self, the family and the wider community. In Berlin, Germany, the pandemic lockdown and closing of schools and childcare facilities led to an increase of time and energy spent on care work in the household. This care work has remained feminized. Women are at the forefront of organizing daily routines and inventing new strategies to manage time such as increased online shopping, intensified planning of errands, cooking and enjoying meals together, or becoming involved in local food networks. The altered temporal rhythms during the pandemic offer potential for the revaluation of care and for organizing care as a shared responsibility, however it remains questionable how this reorganization will evolve in the long run. For the future, the economic study of food must finally include caring practices in its valuation since they are the backbone of individual and societal well-being and demand considerable time, especially from women.
摘要在无偿护理经济中,快乐和压力是一枚硬币的两面。食物是我们审视新冠肺炎大流行期间1月护理特征的镜头。基于定性实证研究结果,我们认为时间对于人们在为自己、家庭和更广泛的社区提供食物时是否经历矛盾、快乐或约束至关重要。在德国柏林,疫情封锁以及学校和儿童保育设施的关闭导致花费在家庭护理工作上的时间和精力增加。这种护理工作仍然是女性化的。女性站在组织日常生活和发明新的时间管理策略的最前沿,如增加网上购物、加强跑腿计划、一起做饭和享受美食,或参与当地的食品网络。疫情期间时间节奏的改变为重新评估护理和将护理组织为一项共同责任提供了潜力,但从长远来看,这种重组将如何发展仍存在疑问。对于未来,对食品的经济研究最终必须将关爱实践纳入其评估中,因为它们是个人和社会福祉的支柱,需要相当长的时间,尤其是女性。
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引用次数: 2
Old abattoirs and new food politics: Sharing food and eating together at the meat market of Brussels 旧屠宰场与新食品政治:在布鲁塞尔的肉类市场共享食物
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943611
K. Alexander
Abstract In 2012 in a formerly abandoned meat market in Brussels, Belgium, an NGO was founded to produce social inclusion programs and transform an under-used urban space into a community hub. In attempting to fulfill its goal, the founders, staff, and volunteers have used surplus unsold market produce that would otherwise have been discarded in order to fuel several programs, by inviting people to take food or to come and share a meal. This article is an ethnographic study of those efforts that rely on food waste to promote community engagement, and considers them as alternative forms of “scrappy collaboration” and commensality. In probing “scrappy collaboration” as a framework for understanding food sharing in a modern European capital, the article investigates the use of food waste to produce social inclusion as well as to provide a means of both subsistence and resistance.
2012年,在比利时布鲁塞尔一个废弃的肉类市场上,一个非政府组织成立,旨在开展社会包容项目,并将未充分利用的城市空间转变为社区中心。为了实现这一目标,创始人、员工和志愿者利用剩余的未售出的市场产品,通过邀请人们带走食物或来分享一顿饭,为几个项目提供燃料,否则这些产品就会被丢弃。这篇文章是对那些依靠食物浪费来促进社区参与的努力的民族志研究,并认为它们是“零星合作”和共生的另一种形式。在探索“零星合作”作为理解现代欧洲首都食物共享的框架时,文章调查了利用食物垃圾来产生社会包容以及提供生存和抵抗的手段。
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引用次数: 1
Reflection: (Not) feeding the bereaved in the time of coronavirus 反思:(不是)在冠状病毒肆虐的时候喂养死者
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943616
Sabine Parrish
Abstract In this article, I examine the complications to funerary rituals caused by the COVID-19 pandemic. Specifically, I consider the breakdowns of normal systems of community food provisions to bereaved families, while reflecting on both the creativity of populations to create new ritual activities and the lingering effects of being unable to complete expected rituals. Beginning with the death of my father in the early days of the pandemic, I go on to trace the ways in which food provisioning to the bereaved changed alongside developments in understandings of the virus. These changes are contrasted with my previous experiences of food as abundant in funerary situations, in order to draw out the ways in which the COVID-19 pandemic caused a major disruption in how care for bereaved persons is expressed.
摘要在这篇文章中,我研究了新冠肺炎疫情导致的葬礼仪式并发症。具体而言,我考虑了向丧亲家庭提供社区食物的正常系统的崩溃,同时反思了人们创造新的仪式活动的创造力,以及无法完成预期仪式的挥之不去的影响。从我父亲在疫情初期去世开始,我继续追踪向死者提供食物的方式,以及对病毒理解的发展。这些变化与我之前在葬礼上吃得丰富的食物形成了对比,以揭示新冠肺炎疫情对丧亲者护理的表达方式造成重大干扰的方式。
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引用次数: 0
What’s better than a biscuit?: Gourmetization and the transformation of a Southern food staple 什么比饼干更好?:美食化与南方主食的转变
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943614
Deborah A. Harris, Rachel Phillips
Abstract In this article, we applied Wendy Griswold’s concepts of cultural objects and the cultural diamond to examine how a specific food—Southern style biscuits—underwent gourmetization. We provide evidence from observations of seven well-known gourmet biscuit restaurants, as well as a content analysis of their websites, Instagram accounts, and media coverage to understand how some establishments were able to position biscuits as a new gourmet food. We found that food producers combined upscale and exotic ingredients and recipes to create new ways of enjoying biscuits, as well as harnessed the power of social media to create excitement for their products. Simultaneously, the association of biscuits with the home and family recipes provided a form of cultural legitimacy and helped set these restaurants apart from fast food and its unhealthy, placeless reputation. Cultural tastemakers, including food writers and journalists, have aided in the rise of Modern Southern cuisine, which allows traditional Southern foods like biscuits to be viewed as higher in status. Customers, particularly those engaged in food-based tourism and those living in gentrifying areas have also helped encourage gourmetization through their willingness to pay higher prices and to embrace food as spectacle.
摘要在这篇文章中,我们运用温迪·格里斯沃尔德的文化物品和文化钻石的概念来研究一种特定的食物——南方风格的饼干——是如何被美食家化的。我们提供了对七家知名美食饼干餐厅的观察证据,以及对其网站、Instagram账户和媒体报道的内容分析,以了解一些餐厅是如何将饼干定位为一种新的美食的。我们发现,食品生产商将高档和异国情调的食材和食谱结合起来,创造了享受饼干的新方式,并利用社交媒体的力量为他们的产品创造兴奋感。与此同时,饼干与家庭食谱的结合提供了一种文化合法性,并帮助这些餐厅区别于快餐及其不健康、无位置的声誉。包括美食作家和记者在内的文化品味创造者帮助了现代南方美食的兴起,这使得饼干等传统南方食品被视为地位更高。顾客,特别是那些从事美食旅游的人和那些生活在绅士化地区的人,也通过愿意支付更高的价格和将食物视为奇观来鼓励美食家化。
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引用次数: 7
Covid-19, Workday Lunch and the French Labor Code 新冠肺炎、工作日午餐和法国劳工法
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943613
M. Bruegel
Abstract In February 2021, the French government relaxed the Labor Code and authorized workday lunches in the office and on the shop floor to prevent the spread of Covid-19 in dedicated eating places (canteens, lunch rooms, refectories). The general reception of the measure was indifferent. Conservative media, however, welcomed the news as a long overdue step toward more individual liberty and a less rigid labor market. This opinion misconstrues the historical origins of the lunch-time regulation as well as the economic effects and cultural meaning of lunch breaks. First, public health inspired the original regulation in 1894. Second, its upshots have since sustained workday commensality and people’s wellbeing. Third, scientific studies show that lunch breaks increase productivity in the afternoon. Far from being a drag on the general economy or the individual firm, midday commensality on working days benefits both employees and employers. Proper meals on workdays are likely to survive the shock of the Covid-19 pandemic.
2021年2月,法国政府放宽了《劳动法》,批准在办公室和车间提供工作日午餐,以防止新冠病毒在专用餐饮场所(食堂、午餐室、食堂)传播。对这一措施的普遍反应是冷淡的。然而,保守派媒体对这一消息表示欢迎,认为这是朝着更多个人自由和更宽松的劳动力市场迈出的迟来的一步。这种观点误解了午餐时间规定的历史起源,以及午餐休息的经济影响和文化意义。首先,公共卫生启发了1894年最初的法规。其次,其结果是工作日的互惠和人民的福祉。第三,科学研究表明,午休可以提高下午的工作效率。工作日的午间互惠非但不会拖累整体经济或个别公司,反而对雇员和雇主都有利。工作日的适当膳食可能会在Covid-19大流行的冲击中幸存下来。
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引用次数: 2
Feeding the Crisis: Care and Abandonment in America's Food Safety Net 助长危机:美国食品安全网的关注与抛弃
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-07-01 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1942425
Ashanté M. Reese
Over twenty years ago, Janet Poppendieck published Sweet Charity?: Emergency Food and the End of Entitlement. The book, one that is considered by many to be a foundational contribution to the study...
二十多年前,Janet Poppendieck出版了《甜蜜的慈善?:紧急食品和权利的终止。这本书被许多人认为是对这项研究的基础性贡献。。。
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引用次数: 2
Ball jars, bacteria, and labor: CO-producing nature through cooperative enterprise 球罐、细菌和劳动力:通过合作企业共同生产自然
IF 1 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2021-06-30 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943615
O. Morrow
Abstract The production of nature has been employed to theorize shifts in nature-society relations that have accompanied historical transformations in production and social reproduction. While Marxist scholars have employed this framework to theorize the nature-society relations that accompany capitalist production, they have paid less attention to those that accompany non-capitalist production. In the meantime critical food studies has grown abundant with more-than-human and more-than-capitalist encounters with nature. This paper attempts to bring these two streams of thought together, in order to explore what they reveal about encounters and entanglements with microbes and non-human labor in the non-capitalist production of yogurt. Drawing on ethnographic research with a yogurt making cooperative in Somerville, Massachusetts, USA, I explore the contribution of microbial labor to the co-production of nature and post-human ethics in a cooperative food enterprise.
摘要自然的生产被用来理论化自然-社会关系的转变,这些关系伴随着生产和社会再生产的历史转变。虽然马克思主义学者利用这一框架对伴随资本主义生产的自然-社会关系进行了理论化,但他们对伴随非资本主义生产的关系关注较少。与此同时,批判性食品研究已经变得丰富起来,不仅仅是人类,也不仅仅是资本主义与自然的接触。本文试图将这两种思想流结合在一起,以探索它们揭示了在非资本主义酸奶生产中与微生物和非人类劳动的相遇和纠缠。根据对美国马萨诸塞州萨默维尔一家酸奶生产合作社的民族志研究,我探讨了微生物劳动对合作食品企业中自然和后人类伦理的共同生产的贡献。
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引用次数: 3
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Food and Foodways
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