Pub Date : 2021-02-19DOI: 10.1177/0887302X21994207
Li Zhao, K. Kim
The COVID-19 pandemic has created lots of uncertainties that force clothing and textile (C&T) companies to question their current practices and make urgent changes to navigate their future. Given that this period represents an unprecedented market situation with almost no prior research on how an industry can recover from such a crisis and reshape its value chain, this study aims to present new possibilities with C&T value chain by evaluating specific industry responses. The global value chain framework and resource-based theory of the firm were used as the theoretical framework in this study. Based on case study analysis and extensive literature review, this study develops a conceptual model illustrating the connections among various value chain segments in C&T that have been affected due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The findings provide actionable considerations for C&T practitioners when implementing appropriate strategies during times of crisis, such as the COVID-19 outbreak.
{"title":"Responding to the COVID-19 Pandemic: Practices and Strategies of the Global Clothing and Textile Value Chain","authors":"Li Zhao, K. Kim","doi":"10.1177/0887302X21994207","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X21994207","url":null,"abstract":"The COVID-19 pandemic has created lots of uncertainties that force clothing and textile (C&T) companies to question their current practices and make urgent changes to navigate their future. Given that this period represents an unprecedented market situation with almost no prior research on how an industry can recover from such a crisis and reshape its value chain, this study aims to present new possibilities with C&T value chain by evaluating specific industry responses. The global value chain framework and resource-based theory of the firm were used as the theoretical framework in this study. Based on case study analysis and extensive literature review, this study develops a conceptual model illustrating the connections among various value chain segments in C&T that have been affected due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The findings provide actionable considerations for C&T practitioners when implementing appropriate strategies during times of crisis, such as the COVID-19 outbreak.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"26 1","pages":"157 - 172"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-02-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88696812","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-02-19DOI: 10.1177/0887302X21993500
Jiazhen He, Ling Sun, Yehu Lu
This study focused on changes in protective performance of steam protective clothing after exposure to conditions such as thermal radiation and frictional abrasion. Totally eight radiation conditions varying on exposure duration and times, four types of abrasion scenarios with different friction cycles and three different combined treatments were designed. Results demonstrated that any increase in radiant exposure duration or exposure times would lead to an initial increase and then a following decrease in the steam protective performance. However, the steam protective performance seemed relatively immune to the friction cycles. When thermal radiation and frictional abrasion acted together, interactions between them existed and their specific interaction highly depended on the distribution of heat exposure duration and friction cycles. Findings of this study provided insight into factors influencing steam protective performance, and could be an aid in developing high performance materials or guidelines for use and maintenance of protective clothing.
{"title":"Effects of Radiant Heat and Frictional Abrasion on Thermal Protective Performance of Clothing Against High Pressurized Steam","authors":"Jiazhen He, Ling Sun, Yehu Lu","doi":"10.1177/0887302X21993500","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X21993500","url":null,"abstract":"This study focused on changes in protective performance of steam protective clothing after exposure to conditions such as thermal radiation and frictional abrasion. Totally eight radiation conditions varying on exposure duration and times, four types of abrasion scenarios with different friction cycles and three different combined treatments were designed. Results demonstrated that any increase in radiant exposure duration or exposure times would lead to an initial increase and then a following decrease in the steam protective performance. However, the steam protective performance seemed relatively immune to the friction cycles. When thermal radiation and frictional abrasion acted together, interactions between them existed and their specific interaction highly depended on the distribution of heat exposure duration and friction cycles. Findings of this study provided insight into factors influencing steam protective performance, and could be an aid in developing high performance materials or guidelines for use and maintenance of protective clothing.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"26 1","pages":"125 - 138"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-02-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82247949","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-02-16DOI: 10.1177/0887302X21994287
H. Park, Seeun Kim
The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of the “virtual try-on” technology (AR) and the “3D virtual store” (VR) incorporated in an apparel retail website on purchase intentions. This study highlights the mediating role of cognitive elaboration in the process through which these technologies influence purchase intentions, and examines the way consumers’ shopping goals (searching vs. browsing) interact with the website technology and influence their responses. The two experiments demonstrated that, for browsers, the website with VR was more effective in increasing purchase intentions than were the website with AR or a regular website with no technology, while for searchers, both the website with AR and the website with VR were more effective than was a regular website. In addition, cognitive elaboration mediated the interaction between a technology and a shopping goal on purchase intentions for browsers, while such a mediating effect was not found in searchers.
{"title":"Do Augmented and Virtual Reality Technologies Increase Consumers’ Purchase Intentions? The Role of Cognitive Elaboration and Shopping Goals","authors":"H. Park, Seeun Kim","doi":"10.1177/0887302X21994287","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X21994287","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of the “virtual try-on” technology (AR) and the “3D virtual store” (VR) incorporated in an apparel retail website on purchase intentions. This study highlights the mediating role of cognitive elaboration in the process through which these technologies influence purchase intentions, and examines the way consumers’ shopping goals (searching vs. browsing) interact with the website technology and influence their responses. The two experiments demonstrated that, for browsers, the website with VR was more effective in increasing purchase intentions than were the website with AR or a regular website with no technology, while for searchers, both the website with AR and the website with VR were more effective than was a regular website. In addition, cognitive elaboration mediated the interaction between a technology and a shopping goal on purchase intentions for browsers, while such a mediating effect was not found in searchers.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"354 1","pages":"91 - 106"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84883328","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-08DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20986127
C. Ki, Jung E. Ha‐Brookshire
Scholars in the fashion discipline have become more attentive to investigating how the fashion business can become more circular. In the past, many of the studies focused on identifying the supporting and/or hindering factors when creating a circular fashion (CF). Despite the insights these studies provide, their contributions are relatively limited in that many of them are exploratory in nature and skewed toward understanding CF from the stance of fashion companies who are situated at the supply side of the fashion economy. In contrast, little attention has been given to how consumers, on the demand side, perceive a CF. We employed a mixed-method approach using 332 respondents’ narrative data and empirically identified whether consumers attribute moral responsibility to fashion companies as well as to themselves for creating a CF and, if so, whether there are any nuanced differences in their perceptions of consumer versus corporate moral responsibilities for a CF.
{"title":"Consumer Versus Corporate Moral Responsibilities for Creating a Circular Fashion: Virtue or Accountability?","authors":"C. Ki, Jung E. Ha‐Brookshire","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20986127","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20986127","url":null,"abstract":"Scholars in the fashion discipline have become more attentive to investigating how the fashion business can become more circular. In the past, many of the studies focused on identifying the supporting and/or hindering factors when creating a circular fashion (CF). Despite the insights these studies provide, their contributions are relatively limited in that many of them are exploratory in nature and skewed toward understanding CF from the stance of fashion companies who are situated at the supply side of the fashion economy. In contrast, little attention has been given to how consumers, on the demand side, perceive a CF. We employed a mixed-method approach using 332 respondents’ narrative data and empirically identified whether consumers attribute moral responsibility to fashion companies as well as to themselves for creating a CF and, if so, whether there are any nuanced differences in their perceptions of consumer versus corporate moral responsibilities for a CF.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"58 1","pages":"271 - 290"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83990785","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-01DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20913115
Kim H. Y. Hahn
This article is about the designer’s journey in design research where the designer has developed a body of work. The development of each project’s design process, method, technique, and practice-led research are addressed. The purpose of this article was to contribute to the design discipline by sharing an example of how a design researcher develops a body of work. This article first describes the designer’s design value and design process which has guided the designer’s creative work and practice. The 10 different creative works are presented in chronological order as the designer’s design development progressed. The designer’s design framework is presented along with the future direction of the designer’s design work.
{"title":"In Pursuit of Design Vision Through Design Practice","authors":"Kim H. Y. Hahn","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20913115","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20913115","url":null,"abstract":"This article is about the designer’s journey in design research where the designer has developed a body of work. The development of each project’s design process, method, technique, and practice-led research are addressed. The purpose of this article was to contribute to the design discipline by sharing an example of how a design researcher develops a body of work. This article first describes the designer’s design value and design process which has guided the designer’s creative work and practice. The 10 different creative works are presented in chronological order as the designer’s design development progressed. The designer’s design framework is presented along with the future direction of the designer’s design work.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"49 1","pages":"55 - 70"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90378570","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-01DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20937061
Chanjuan Chen, Kendra Lapolla
The aim of this design research is to explore modular shapes and interlocking systems for apparel design using research through practice approach. As a transformable design approach, modular design features small standardized units that can be independently combined in various configurations to create different forms and provide multiple functions. However, there has been little hands-on integration of methods for developing more fitted garment designs and incorporating visually appealing surfaces, such as prints, within a modular system. By adopting Bye’s description of a research through practice approach, the researchers for this study aimed to explore modular textile systems that would result in more fitted garments and aesthetically appealing surfaces. Through documenting and analyzing a range of data from the design process and outcome of four experimental designs, this study resulted in the development of advanced research through a Focused Knowledge Design Practice framework.
{"title":"The Exploration of the Modular System in Textile and Apparel Design","authors":"Chanjuan Chen, Kendra Lapolla","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20937061","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20937061","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this design research is to explore modular shapes and interlocking systems for apparel design using research through practice approach. As a transformable design approach, modular design features small standardized units that can be independently combined in various configurations to create different forms and provide multiple functions. However, there has been little hands-on integration of methods for developing more fitted garment designs and incorporating visually appealing surfaces, such as prints, within a modular system. By adopting Bye’s description of a research through practice approach, the researchers for this study aimed to explore modular textile systems that would result in more fitted garments and aesthetically appealing surfaces. Through documenting and analyzing a range of data from the design process and outcome of four experimental designs, this study resulted in the development of advanced research through a Focused Knowledge Design Practice framework.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"53 1","pages":"39 - 54"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82946898","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-01DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20903809
J. Parsons, K. Morris
Apparel and textile (AT) design scholarship can be classified in diverse ways. As a professional organization, International Textile and Apparel Association is in a unique position to lead in identifying what constitutes contributions to research in the field. Defining, presenting, and evaluating design production as scholarship is critical, especially as the broader design disciplines become more rigorous and academic institutions become more focused on evaluation metrics. Our purpose was to examine AT design scholarship through the lens of three critical components of research: shared knowledge, dissemination, and evaluation. These three components of research should be points of reference for AT design scholarship in moving forward to establish a unified vision of research that focuses on designed objects as valuable forms of scholarship. Additional work is necessary to identify core values that represent AT design knowledge, disseminate in formats that facilitate contributions to research, and measure the impact of design scholarship.
{"title":"Apparel and Textile Design Scholarship: Shared Knowledge, Dissemination, and Evaluation","authors":"J. Parsons, K. Morris","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20903809","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20903809","url":null,"abstract":"Apparel and textile (AT) design scholarship can be classified in diverse ways. As a professional organization, International Textile and Apparel Association is in a unique position to lead in identifying what constitutes contributions to research in the field. Defining, presenting, and evaluating design production as scholarship is critical, especially as the broader design disciplines become more rigorous and academic institutions become more focused on evaluation metrics. Our purpose was to examine AT design scholarship through the lens of three critical components of research: shared knowledge, dissemination, and evaluation. These three components of research should be points of reference for AT design scholarship in moving forward to establish a unified vision of research that focuses on designed objects as valuable forms of scholarship. Additional work is necessary to identify core values that represent AT design knowledge, disseminate in formats that facilitate contributions to research, and measure the impact of design scholarship.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"31 1","pages":"7 - 23"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87029113","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-01DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19888018
D. Green, Jenny Leigh Du Puis, Lynda May Xepoleas, Chris Hesselbein, Katherine Greder, Victoria Pietsch, R. Getman, Jessica Guadalupe Estrada
Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthetics converge. In this article, we use the term “fashion exhibition” to refer to the organized display of extant dress-related items within museums or other public spaces. Curation, as a form of creative design research, produces numerous outcomes including museum exhibitions, digital archives, and associated publications; however, our field has not yet established a method to peer review fashion exhibitions. In this article, we build upon the work of previous scholars to propose criteria for evaluating fashion exhibitions. In doing so, we aim to elevate the scholarly status of fashion exhibitions, particularly those mounted by modestly funded institutions, and use the recent fashion exhibition, “Women Empowered: Fashions from the Frontline,” as an example to illustrate our argument.
{"title":"Fashion Exhibitions as Scholarship: Evaluation Criteria for Peer Review","authors":"D. Green, Jenny Leigh Du Puis, Lynda May Xepoleas, Chris Hesselbein, Katherine Greder, Victoria Pietsch, R. Getman, Jessica Guadalupe Estrada","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19888018","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19888018","url":null,"abstract":"Curated exhibitions are places where research practice, creative design, storytelling, and aesthetics converge. In this article, we use the term “fashion exhibition” to refer to the organized display of extant dress-related items within museums or other public spaces. Curation, as a form of creative design research, produces numerous outcomes including museum exhibitions, digital archives, and associated publications; however, our field has not yet established a method to peer review fashion exhibitions. In this article, we build upon the work of previous scholars to propose criteria for evaluating fashion exhibitions. In doing so, we aim to elevate the scholarly status of fashion exhibitions, particularly those mounted by modestly funded institutions, and use the recent fashion exhibition, “Women Empowered: Fashions from the Frontline,” as an example to illustrate our argument.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"1 1","pages":"71 - 86"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1177/0887302X19888018","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72537401","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-01DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19881211
B. Orzada, M. J. Kallal
This systematic review examined use of Lamb and Kallal’s (1992) Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model and integrated Apparel Design (AD) Framework within scholarly journal publications. The 126 peer-reviewed articles citing Lamb and Kallal published in English between 1992 and 2017 were the focus of this article. We identify the breadth of citations across the 25-year time span, examine application of the FEA Model and/or the AD Framework, and identify and confirm use of the FEA Model as a theoretical framework. Authors used the consumer needs focus to assess FEA criteria for products targeted to various consumer groups and product types. Findings indicate that the FEA Model has been applied under a variety of conditions to understand consumer needs, inform the design process, confirm the utility of the model, and demonstrate the strength and flexibility of the FEA Model. Future research directions are suggested.
{"title":"FEA Consumer Needs Model: 25 Years Later","authors":"B. Orzada, M. J. Kallal","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19881211","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19881211","url":null,"abstract":"This systematic review examined use of Lamb and Kallal’s (1992) Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model and integrated Apparel Design (AD) Framework within scholarly journal publications. The 126 peer-reviewed articles citing Lamb and Kallal published in English between 1992 and 2017 were the focus of this article. We identify the breadth of citations across the 25-year time span, examine application of the FEA Model and/or the AD Framework, and identify and confirm use of the FEA Model as a theoretical framework. Authors used the consumer needs focus to assess FEA criteria for products targeted to various consumer groups and product types. Findings indicate that the FEA Model has been applied under a variety of conditions to understand consumer needs, inform the design process, confirm the utility of the model, and demonstrate the strength and flexibility of the FEA Model. Future research directions are suggested.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"403 1","pages":"24 - 38"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84857725","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-01-01DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20943305
Sherry J. Haar, Elizabeth K Bye
The past 20 years have seen growth in exposure and academic outlets for design scholarship through new journals, special topics sessions and conferences, and PhD programs. Yet, there is a lack of strong published examples of design scholarship in textiles and apparel as designer scholars and administrators still struggle to understand how to conduct, document, and evaluate design scholarship. This issue, long overdue, looks at the current state of design research in our textile and apparel discipline and provides examples that begin to fill the gap in our shared understanding of a way forward.
{"title":"Editors’ Notes: Advancing Design Scholarship in Textiles and Apparel","authors":"Sherry J. Haar, Elizabeth K Bye","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20943305","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20943305","url":null,"abstract":"The past 20 years have seen growth in exposure and academic outlets for design scholarship through new journals, special topics sessions and conferences, and PhD programs. Yet, there is a lack of strong published examples of design scholarship in textiles and apparel as designer scholars and administrators still struggle to understand how to conduct, document, and evaluate design scholarship. This issue, long overdue, looks at the current state of design research in our textile and apparel discipline and provides examples that begin to fill the gap in our shared understanding of a way forward.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"32 1","pages":"3 - 6"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90256102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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