Pub Date : 2022-05-09DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221100176
Kristian Hogans, Jewon Lyu
Black consumers have been long overlooked as a major consumer base in the United States, despite their increasing buying power. Few scholars have investigated the factors that influence the purchase behaviors of Black millennial consumers (BMC). Persistent discrimination in retail spaces creates psychological effects leaving BMCs in potentially harmful environments that may alter their consciousness. The racialized environment is central in the conceptualization of Black Critical Theory and W.E.B Du Bois’ double consciousness. Through these lenses, we investigate BMCs’ shopping experiences, in-store perceptions, and purchase intentions in retail spaces. Semi-structured interviews with 10 consumers who self-identified as Black and millennial were conducted. Situations of double consciousness are revealed and explored in the context of shopping in retail spaces. Our study findings are expected to make important contributions by centering relevant and authentic voices of BMCs. Future areas of research are suggested to produce more equitable, safe, and welcoming retail environments.
{"title":"Double Consciousness of Black Millennial Consumers: Their Experiences in the Retail Space","authors":"Kristian Hogans, Jewon Lyu","doi":"10.1177/0887302x221100176","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x221100176","url":null,"abstract":"Black consumers have been long overlooked as a major consumer base in the United States, despite their increasing buying power. Few scholars have investigated the factors that influence the purchase behaviors of Black millennial consumers (BMC). Persistent discrimination in retail spaces creates psychological effects leaving BMCs in potentially harmful environments that may alter their consciousness. The racialized environment is central in the conceptualization of Black Critical Theory and W.E.B Du Bois’ double consciousness. Through these lenses, we investigate BMCs’ shopping experiences, in-store perceptions, and purchase intentions in retail spaces. Semi-structured interviews with 10 consumers who self-identified as Black and millennial were conducted. Situations of double consciousness are revealed and explored in the context of shopping in retail spaces. Our study findings are expected to make important contributions by centering relevant and authentic voices of BMCs. Future areas of research are suggested to produce more equitable, safe, and welcoming retail environments.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"26 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82124491","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-05-04DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221099824
Jaleesa Reed, S. Covington, Katalin Medvedev
In this paper we encourage fashion educators to consider applying social justice pedagogy to fashion education. We begin by situating the current state of fashion education within the context of neoliberalism. Social justice pedagogy is defined and introduced as an alternative approach to fashion education. Participatory action research (PAR), which aims to address the needs of disadvantaged groups, is also provided as a solution to increase social justice awareness in students, departments, and institutions. Possible starting points are provided for instructors interested in integrating social justice into their courses. While social justice pedagogy and PAR are not foolproof methods for achieving equity-related goals in the classroom, they provide a starting point for instructors interested in promoting social change through their teaching.
{"title":"Creating Room for Social Justice Pedagogy in Fashion Education","authors":"Jaleesa Reed, S. Covington, Katalin Medvedev","doi":"10.1177/0887302X221099824","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X221099824","url":null,"abstract":"In this paper we encourage fashion educators to consider applying social justice pedagogy to fashion education. We begin by situating the current state of fashion education within the context of neoliberalism. Social justice pedagogy is defined and introduced as an alternative approach to fashion education. Participatory action research (PAR), which aims to address the needs of disadvantaged groups, is also provided as a solution to increase social justice awareness in students, departments, and institutions. Possible starting points are provided for instructors interested in integrating social justice into their courses. While social justice pedagogy and PAR are not foolproof methods for achieving equity-related goals in the classroom, they provide a starting point for instructors interested in promoting social change through their teaching.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"33 1","pages":"6 - 9"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90958984","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-04-26DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221095072
Zafar Waziha Sarker, Haesun Park-Poaps
The stakeholder influences on workplace compliance among Bangladeshi apparel factories across different compliance statuses were investigated. Six prominent stakeholders of the issue were identifie...
{"title":"Stakeholder Pressures and Workplace Compliance in Bangladeshi Apparel Factories","authors":"Zafar Waziha Sarker, Haesun Park-Poaps","doi":"10.1177/0887302x221095072","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x221095072","url":null,"abstract":"The stakeholder influences on workplace compliance among Bangladeshi apparel factories across different compliance statuses were investigated. Six prominent stakeholders of the issue were identifie...","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"71 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-04-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138532854","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-03-29DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221089580
Farimah Bayat, N. Hodges
Hijab is mandatory for every woman in Iran. However, while some women adhere to the strict guidelines and cover their hair and body when in public, others wear hijab only to the extent that they avoid breaking the law, a practice known as bad-hijabi. Recent studies have explored Iranian women's willingness to protest hijab through their social media activities. However, few studies have examined bad-hijabi as another form of resistance. The purpose of this study was to explore the topic of bad-hijabi from the perspective of women who have worn badhijabi. In-depth interviews were conducted with twenty Iranian women and a thematic interpretation of the data revealed that they use badhijabi to compensate for the inability to freely express the self through appearance, as well as to dissociate from messages communicated by hijab. Further research is needed on how bad-hijabi impacts the complex meanings communicated by women's appearance in Iran.
{"title":"Just Say “No” to Compulsory Hijab: Exploring the Motivations and Meanings of Bad-Hijabi in Iran","authors":"Farimah Bayat, N. Hodges","doi":"10.1177/0887302x221089580","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x221089580","url":null,"abstract":"Hijab is mandatory for every woman in Iran. However, while some women adhere to the strict guidelines and cover their hair and body when in public, others wear hijab only to the extent that they avoid breaking the law, a practice known as bad-hijabi. Recent studies have explored Iranian women's willingness to protest hijab through their social media activities. However, few studies have examined bad-hijabi as another form of resistance. The purpose of this study was to explore the topic of bad-hijabi from the perspective of women who have worn badhijabi. In-depth interviews were conducted with twenty Iranian women and a thematic interpretation of the data revealed that they use badhijabi to compensate for the inability to freely express the self through appearance, as well as to dissociate from messages communicated by hijab. Further research is needed on how bad-hijabi impacts the complex meanings communicated by women's appearance in Iran.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"67 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83849333","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-03-02DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221084375
I. Jestratijević, J. Hillery
This study's purpose is to support the practice of transformative learning by reporting on a class project which examined unsustainable clothing consumption behaviors using action research and the holistic principles of the Burns Sustainability Pedagogy. The study has three objectives: to engage students in action research in which students were asked to measure the clothing volumes bought, used, and discarded during one school semester; to reflect on their unsustainable clothing consumption practices through facilitated peer discussion; and to use educational intervention as a pedagogical tool to expand students' awareness of unsustainable clothing consumption behaviors to cultivate learners capable of effecting holistic sustainable change. The “clothing mountain” was assessed among 755 students, who purchased 10,931 garments for a total of $754,239. The findings provide a baseline for improving the textile and apparel scholarship on sustainability teaching and learning, particularly in the areas of responsible clothing purchases, wear, and disposal.
{"title":"Measuring the “Clothing Mountain”: Action Research and Sustainability Pedagogy to Reframe (Un)Sustainable Clothing Consumption in the Classroom","authors":"I. Jestratijević, J. Hillery","doi":"10.1177/0887302X221084375","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X221084375","url":null,"abstract":"This study's purpose is to support the practice of transformative learning by reporting on a class project which examined unsustainable clothing consumption behaviors using action research and the holistic principles of the Burns Sustainability Pedagogy. The study has three objectives: to engage students in action research in which students were asked to measure the clothing volumes bought, used, and discarded during one school semester; to reflect on their unsustainable clothing consumption practices through facilitated peer discussion; and to use educational intervention as a pedagogical tool to expand students' awareness of unsustainable clothing consumption behaviors to cultivate learners capable of effecting holistic sustainable change. The “clothing mountain” was assessed among 755 students, who purchased 10,931 garments for a total of $754,239. The findings provide a baseline for improving the textile and apparel scholarship on sustainability teaching and learning, particularly in the areas of responsible clothing purchases, wear, and disposal.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"20 1","pages":"10 - 25"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78777083","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-03-02DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221084057
Dina Smith-Glaviana, Brian E. Martinez
Student perceptions of a simulated store planning project set in a brick and mortar retail research lab were examined using the Concrete, Active, Primary-Abstract, Passive, Secondary Learning Potency Scales for Real and Simulated Situations by Bergsteiner and Avery (2014) as a framework. Quantitative seven-point Likert-type survey data (N = 30) and qualitative student reflection paper data (N = 27) were simultaneously collected and analyzed using SPSS and NVivo Qualitative Coding software. Students perceived the project’s environment and most of the activities performed within it as realistic or having a real-world connection, except for the large number of individuals involved in store planning, which led to an implication for designing simulated projects: To be concrete, simulated learning activities must have three specific tangible elements: a realistic environment (mock retail store), realistic activities (folding, hanging, and displaying merchandise), and realistic outcomes/consequences related to activities performed (increased or decreased foot traffic among visitors).
{"title":"Students’ Perceptions of a Simulated Store Planning Project Set in a Brick and Mortar Retail Research Lab","authors":"Dina Smith-Glaviana, Brian E. Martinez","doi":"10.1177/0887302X221084057","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X221084057","url":null,"abstract":"Student perceptions of a simulated store planning project set in a brick and mortar retail research lab were examined using the Concrete, Active, Primary-Abstract, Passive, Secondary Learning Potency Scales for Real and Simulated Situations by Bergsteiner and Avery (2014) as a framework. Quantitative seven-point Likert-type survey data (N = 30) and qualitative student reflection paper data (N = 27) were simultaneously collected and analyzed using SPSS and NVivo Qualitative Coding software. Students perceived the project’s environment and most of the activities performed within it as realistic or having a real-world connection, except for the large number of individuals involved in store planning, which led to an implication for designing simulated projects: To be concrete, simulated learning activities must have three specific tangible elements: a realistic environment (mock retail store), realistic activities (folding, hanging, and displaying merchandise), and realistic outcomes/consequences related to activities performed (increased or decreased foot traffic among visitors).","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"23 1","pages":"26 - 42"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72483415","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-24DOI: 10.1177/0887302x211073908
W. Tawfiq, Jennifer Paff Ogle
In Saudi Arabia, women have been required by law to wear the veil in public for decades. However, in 2018, Saudi women gained the legal right to choose their own public dress. We explored how Saudi women have experienced the newly sanctioned freedoms in public dress. We drew from theory exploring freedom in dress, agency and constraint in dress, and the “doing” of religion. We conducted interviews with 15 Saudi women; data were analyzed using constant comparison. Analyzes revealed three key themes: (a) freedom in dress and empowering women, (b) constraints in freedom of public dress, and (c) concerns and ambivalence prompted by new freedoms in public dress. As participants constructed a viable self, they sought to find a “middle ground,” navigating competing desires for individuality and authenticity as well as a respect for cultural norms of modesty and decency and a reverence for Saudi culture and the Islamic religion.
{"title":"Constructing Identity against a Backdrop of Cultural Change: Experiences of Freedom and Constraint in Public Dress among Saudi Women","authors":"W. Tawfiq, Jennifer Paff Ogle","doi":"10.1177/0887302x211073908","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x211073908","url":null,"abstract":"In Saudi Arabia, women have been required by law to wear the veil in public for decades. However, in 2018, Saudi women gained the legal right to choose their own public dress. We explored how Saudi women have experienced the newly sanctioned freedoms in public dress. We drew from theory exploring freedom in dress, agency and constraint in dress, and the “doing” of religion. We conducted interviews with 15 Saudi women; data were analyzed using constant comparison. Analyzes revealed three key themes: (a) freedom in dress and empowering women, (b) constraints in freedom of public dress, and (c) concerns and ambivalence prompted by new freedoms in public dress. As participants constructed a viable self, they sought to find a “middle ground,” navigating competing desires for individuality and authenticity as well as a respect for cultural norms of modesty and decency and a reverence for Saudi culture and the Islamic religion.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"19 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-01-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79195726","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-24DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221075765
Sara Jablon-Roberts, Arienne McCracken
This paper focuses on the findings related to the second part of a continuing study of student impressions of the industry guest speaker experience in college fashion courses: student perceptions of virtual guest speakers. Data from 130 participants who were enrolled in the researchers’ textile and apparel classes at two United States universities were analyzed. Findings suggested that although there are disadvantages to the use of virtual industry guest visits, many students find them useful and enlightening. While respondents overall preferred in-person visits, student concern with technological issues seems to have lessened during the forced move to online coursework during the COVID-19 pandemic, and they have come to realize that the online medium, especially through the “chat” functionality found in videoconferencing platforms, can be an effective way to ask questions. Suggestions are made for instructors considering the use of the virtual medium for industry speaker visits.
{"title":"Virtual Guest Speakers in Textile and Apparel Courses: Student Experiences and Expectations","authors":"Sara Jablon-Roberts, Arienne McCracken","doi":"10.1177/0887302X221075765","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X221075765","url":null,"abstract":"This paper focuses on the findings related to the second part of a continuing study of student impressions of the industry guest speaker experience in college fashion courses: student perceptions of virtual guest speakers. Data from 130 participants who were enrolled in the researchers’ textile and apparel classes at two United States universities were analyzed. Findings suggested that although there are disadvantages to the use of virtual industry guest visits, many students find them useful and enlightening. While respondents overall preferred in-person visits, student concern with technological issues seems to have lessened during the forced move to online coursework during the COVID-19 pandemic, and they have come to realize that the online medium, especially through the “chat” functionality found in videoconferencing platforms, can be an effective way to ask questions. Suggestions are made for instructors considering the use of the virtual medium for industry speaker visits.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"19 1","pages":"43 - 56"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2022-01-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84434827","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-12-23DOI: 10.1177/0887302x211061020
Juliana Guglielmi, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
{"title":"BDSM, Dress, and Consumption: Women's Meaning Construction Through Embodiment, Bodies in Motion, and Sensations","authors":"Juliana Guglielmi, Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1177/0887302x211061020","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x211061020","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"39 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-12-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82098248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2021-12-17DOI: 10.1177/0887302x211059103
A. D. Adomaitis, Diana Saiki, Kim K. P. Johnson, Rafi Sahanoor, Arsha Attique
{"title":"Relationships Between Dress and Gender Identity: LGBTQIA +","authors":"A. D. Adomaitis, Diana Saiki, Kim K. P. Johnson, Rafi Sahanoor, Arsha Attique","doi":"10.1177/0887302x211059103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x211059103","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"120 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2021-12-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80764230","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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