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A Missing Site of Black Beauty History: The Black Beauty Supply Store 黑人美容史上被遗忘的地方:黑人美容用品店
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2023-02-27 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X231160428
Jaleesa Reed, Katalin Medvedev
With(in) retail spaces, Black Americans operate in a space with historical ties to inequality, dehumanization, and exclusion. This qualitative study situates the Black beauty supply store within these political and culturally relevant histories. Millennial perceptions of beauty, relationship to their hair, and the history of Black beauty supply stores are briefly covered in the literature review. Black feminist thought and Black feminist geographies informed the data analysis of interview transcripts from 20 millennial Black women. The findings reveal that millennial Black women shop at the Black beauty supply store due to convenience and the variety in product assortment. Yet, the in-store surveillance and assumptions of criminality affect their psyche, resulting in disengagement from the store. Participants realized that fully satisfying beauty retail experiences do not exist for Black women. Despite this, millennial Black women continue to return to the store where they embrace and cultivate Black stylistic and beauty innovations.
在零售空间中,美国黑人在一个与不平等、非人化和排斥有着历史联系的空间中经营。这一定性研究将黑人美容用品店置于这些政治和文化相关的历史中。千禧一代对美的看法,与头发的关系,以及黑人美容用品商店的历史在文献综述中简要介绍。黑人女权主义思想和黑人女权主义地理学对20名千禧一代黑人女性的访谈记录进行了数据分析。研究结果显示,千禧一代的黑人女性在黑人美容用品店购物,因为方便,而且产品种类繁多。然而,店内的监控和对犯罪行为的假设影响了他们的心理,导致他们脱离了商店。参与者意识到,完全满意的美妆零售体验并不存在于黑人女性身上。尽管如此,千禧一代的黑人女性继续回到商店,在那里她们接受并培养黑人的风格和美容创新。
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引用次数: 0
Wearing Is Caring: An Investigation of the Adoption of Black Lives Matter Apparel and Accessories by Non-Blacks 穿着就是关怀:非黑人对黑人生命问题服装和配饰的采用调查
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-12-26 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221147828
Olivia Johnson, Delisia Matthews, S. Patwary, Mariam D. Diallo
Social movements that involve a variety of individuals from various backgrounds, such as Black Lives Matter, have made social justice (SJ) a prominent factor when purchasing. Although clothing is an influential communication tool and identity construction mechanism, very little research has explored the relationship between dress and SJ activism. Using Identity theory, this study proposed a model of non-Blacks’ adoption of BLM apparel/accessories which included repurchase intention and need for uniqueness as a moderating factor. The model was verified using structural equation modeling for the data obtained from a sample of 405 non-Black participants who purchased BLM apparel/accessories in the past 12 months. The results show a positive relationship exists between SJ commitment and SJ social identity salience and identity salience positively influences SJ behavior. The study also validated that SJ behavior positively influences repurchase intention. The findings improve our understanding of the motivations of non-Black BLM supporters.
诸如“黑人的命也是命”(Black Lives Matter)等不同背景的个人参与的社会运动,使社会正义(SJ)成为购买时的一个突出因素。虽然服装是一种有影响力的沟通工具和身份建构机制,但很少有研究探讨服装与SJ行动主义之间的关系。本研究运用认同理论,提出了非黑人购买BLM服装/配饰的模型,其中回购意愿和独特性需求作为调节因素。通过结构方程模型对405名在过去12个月内购买BLM服装/配饰的非黑人参与者的数据进行验证。研究结果表明,大学生社交承诺与大学生社会身份显著性之间存在显著的正相关关系,身份显著性对大学生社交行为有显著的正向影响。本研究也验证了SJ行为对回购意愿的正向影响。这些发现提高了我们对非黑人BLM支持者动机的理解。
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引用次数: 0
Striving Towards Authenticity in the Self Through Dress and Appearance: Stories of Latina Adolescent Immigrants 通过服装和外表努力实现自我的真实性:拉丁裔青少年移民的故事
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-11-21 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221140339
M. Casto, Jennifer Paff Ogle, M. DeMirjyn, Amanda R. Morales, Sarah Silvas-Bernstein
We sought to explore how Latina adolescent immigrants experience immigration across adolescence as they seek to know and express their authentic selves through dress and appearance. Our work was informed by theories of acculturation, identity, and authenticity. Participants included 12 immigrant women who identified as Latina and who immigrated before age 16. Open-ended interviews focused on participants’ memories of their immigration experiences during adolescence. Data were analyzed using constant comparison processes. Findings revealed that, for participants, the typical challenges of adolescence were complicated by immigration that included constructing an authentic identity at the intersection of two cultures. Immigration produced a disjointed dance towards authenticity with many uneven steps, sharp turns, and the occasional reversal. Dress was a key means for the expression of the authentic self; a self that communicated to the culture of settlement who they were and how their culture of origin was part of their authentic self.
我们试图探索拉丁裔青少年移民如何在整个青春期经历移民,因为他们试图通过着装和外表了解和表达他们真实的自我。我们的工作以文化适应、身份认同和真实性理论为基础。参与者包括12名被认定为拉丁裔的移民妇女,她们在16岁之前移民。开放式访谈主要关注参与者对青少年时期移民经历的记忆。数据分析采用恒定的比较过程。研究结果显示,对于参与者来说,移民使青春期的典型挑战变得复杂,其中包括在两种文化的交叉点构建真实的身份。移民产生了一种支离破碎的舞蹈,伴随着许多不平衡的步伐、急转弯和偶尔的逆转。服装是表达真实自我的关键手段;这个自我向定居文化传达了他们是谁以及他们的起源文化如何成为他们真实自我的一部分。
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引用次数: 0
SoTL Special Issue Editor's Note SoTL特刊编者按
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-11-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221138215
Sara B. Marcketti, V. A. Paulins, J. Banning
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引用次数: 0
Openly-Trans YouTubers and Gender-Affirming Undergarments: Production, Distribution, and Consumption via DIY Tutorials on YouTube 公开的跨性别YouTube用户和性别确认内衣:通过YouTube上的DIY教程制作,发行和消费
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-11-13 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221138976
Kyra G. Streck, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
Queer and trans individuals have fashioned their bodies in various ways throughout time; however, their undergarment needs are not always available in the marketplace. We asked: how have trans people produced and distributed DIY gender-affirming undergarments worn on the lower portion of the body via DIY YouTube video tutorials amid the lack of commercial objects available to fashion their sense of self? To answer our question, we analyzed 24 YouTube videos on DIY gender-affirming undergarments created by openly-trans YouTubers using a grounded theory, constant-comparative approach. Although the fashion industry, and society at large, often neglects trans individuals’ needs—many trans people have exhibited resilience and resistance, in this instance by making and disseminating their own gender-affirming undergarments and related knowledge. Arguably, these trans YouTubers engaged in acts of personal and community liberation by sharing product ideas and product knowledge to assist themselves and others in obtaining accessible gender-affirming care.
随着时间的推移,酷儿和变性人以各种方式塑造自己的身体;然而,她们的内衣需求在市场上并不总是能买到。我们的问题是:在缺乏可以塑造自我意识的商业物品的情况下,跨性别者是如何通过DIY YouTube视频教程制作和分发穿在下半身的DIY性别确认内衣的?为了回答我们的问题,我们分析了24个YouTube视频,这些视频是由公开跨性别的YouTube用户制作的DIY性别确认内衣,使用的是基于理论的、持续比较的方法。尽管时尚行业和整个社会经常忽视跨性别者的需求,但许多跨性别者表现出了韧性和抵抗力,在这种情况下,他们制作并传播了自己的性别确认内衣和相关知识。可以说,这些跨性别youtube用户通过分享产品创意和产品知识,帮助自己和他人获得无障碍的性别肯定护理,参与了个人和社区解放的行动。
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引用次数: 1
Radical Structural Change in North American Dress and Textile Museums and Collections: Critically Analyzing Social Justice, Oppression, and Empowerment 北美服装和纺织品博物馆和藏品的根本结构变化:批判性地分析社会正义、压迫和赋权
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-10-13 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221132009
Ginger Stanciel, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Joshua D. Simon, Kyra G. Streck, D. Green, Dyese L. Matthews, J. Gordon
The purpose of our research was to examine how dress and textile collections or museums have explicitly and implicitly conveyed solidarity with social-justice efforts. This includes how institutions have made antidiscrimination part of their guiding principles, as well as how these ideologies may have materialized in exhibitions. Using content analysis, we analyzed mission statements, diversity statements, and exhibition titles and descriptions of 134 North American dress and textile museums or collections. We identified five themes in the mission statements: preserving knowledge, education, spectrum of social-justice related language, oppressive language, and other commitments. We found that about half of the museums or collections had diversity statements and most created solidarity statements against racism on social media. A little less than half of the institutions explicitly incorporated social justice within exhibition titles and descriptions. Positive steps were made among these institutions to combat discrimination, but there is work still to be done.
我们研究的目的是研究服装和纺织品收藏或博物馆如何明确和含蓄地表达与社会正义努力的团结。这包括机构如何将反歧视作为其指导原则的一部分,以及这些意识形态如何在展览中具体化。使用内容分析,我们分析了134家北美服装和纺织品博物馆或藏品的使命声明、多样性声明、展览标题和描述。我们在使命宣言中确定了五个主题:保护知识、教育、与社会正义相关的语言、压迫性语言和其他承诺。我们发现,大约一半的博物馆或藏品有多样性声明,大多数都在社交媒体上发表了反对种族主义的团结声明。不到一半的机构明确将社会正义纳入展览标题和描述中。这些机构为打击歧视采取了积极步骤,但仍有工作要做。
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引用次数: 0
The Student Learning Experience: A Case Study in Object-Based Learning 学生学习经验:基于对象学习的个案研究
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-10-05 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221131035
Kathryn Reiley, M. DeLong
Artifacts are a primary source of information for fashion history students participating in object-based learning through careful observation, analysis and interpretation. Object-based learning is an advantage that allows students to connect the course material with the physical artifact in-person. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, classes at a Midwestern university moved midterm to an online format. Artifacts previously viewed in person were posted digitally, thus this was the first semester that artifact analysis included both in-person and online. Students evaluated their learning experience in artifact analysis in-person and online with the goal to understand their perspective on advantages and disadvantages. In-person, students could examine details such as textile weave and hand or machine stitching. Online, multiple views of a garment on a mannequin were available to better understand the shape and silhouette of the garment. In the future, we will incorporate both venues, taking advantage of the best student learning experiences from each.
通过仔细观察、分析和解释,文物是时尚史学生参与基于对象的学习的主要信息来源。基于对象的学习是一个优势,它允许学生将课程材料与实际的人工制品联系起来。由于新冠肺炎大流行,中西部一所大学的期中考试改为在线授课。以前亲自查看的工件被数字化发布,因此这是工件分析包括亲自和在线的第一个学期。学生们评估了他们在人工制品分析中的学习经验,目的是了解他们对优点和缺点的看法。学生们可以亲自检查纺织品编织和手工或机器缝制等细节。在网上,一件衣服在人体模型上的多个视图可以更好地理解衣服的形状和轮廓。在未来,我们将结合这两个场所,利用最好的学生学习经验。
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引用次数: 0
A Case Study of Developing a Paralympic Shooting Jacket for Disabled Athletes 残疾人运动员射击服研制的案例研究
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-05-22 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221102920
Kayna Hobbs-Murphy, K. Morris, Juyeon Park
Disabled athletes participate in sports at elite levels; however, industry product and academic research regarding adaptive sportswear is lacking. Limited availability of sportswear can be a barrier to participation in athletics for disabled people, particularly athletes with mobility differences. This study therefore aimed to enhance the sportswear design process in a single-case study of a Paralympic shooting athlete who participated in the 2020 Paralympic games. Qualitative and anthropometric data were collected via a high-communication, five-step design process. The researchers explored 3D apparel design technologies in tandem with physical prototyping methods to understand benefits and challenges of said tools in adaptive sportswear development. Key findings of this work include understanding of disabled athletes’ needs, design considerations for adaptive sportswear development, and found benefits and challenges of technology use. The knowledge acquired in this case study offers valuable contributions for researchers and manufacturers that can advance sportswear design for all disabled athletes.
残疾人运动员参加高水平体育运动;然而,关于适应性运动服的产业界、产业界和学术界的研究还很缺乏。运动服的有限供应可能成为残疾人,特别是行动不便的运动员参加体育运动的障碍。因此,本研究旨在通过对参加2020年残奥会的残奥会射击运动员的单例研究来提高运动服的设计过程。定性和人体测量数据是通过一个高度沟通的五步设计过程收集的。研究人员探索了3D服装设计技术与物理原型方法的结合,以了解上述工具在适应性运动服开发中的好处和挑战。这项工作的主要发现包括了解残疾运动员的需求,适应性运动服开发的设计考虑,以及发现技术使用的好处和挑战。在本案例研究中获得的知识为研究人员和制造商提供了宝贵的贡献,可以为所有残疾运动员推进运动服设计。
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引用次数: 0
Double Consciousness of Black Millennial Consumers: Their Experiences in the Retail Space 千禧一代黑人消费者的双重意识:他们在零售空间中的体验
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x221100176
Kristian Hogans, Jewon Lyu
Black consumers have been long overlooked as a major consumer base in the United States, despite their increasing buying power. Few scholars have investigated the factors that influence the purchase behaviors of Black millennial consumers (BMC). Persistent discrimination in retail spaces creates psychological effects leaving BMCs in potentially harmful environments that may alter their consciousness. The racialized environment is central in the conceptualization of Black Critical Theory and W.E.B Du Bois’ double consciousness. Through these lenses, we investigate BMCs’ shopping experiences, in-store perceptions, and purchase intentions in retail spaces. Semi-structured interviews with 10 consumers who self-identified as Black and millennial were conducted. Situations of double consciousness are revealed and explored in the context of shopping in retail spaces. Our study findings are expected to make important contributions by centering relevant and authentic voices of BMCs. Future areas of research are suggested to produce more equitable, safe, and welcoming retail environments.
长期以来,黑人消费者一直被忽视为美国的主要消费群体,尽管他们的购买力不断增强。很少有学者研究影响千禧一代黑人消费者购买行为的因素。零售场所持续存在的歧视会产生心理影响,使bmc处于潜在的有害环境中,可能会改变他们的意识。种族化的环境是黑色批判理论概念化和杜波依斯双重意识的核心。通过这些视角,我们调查了bmc的购物体验、店内感知和零售空间的购买意向。对10名自称为黑人和千禧一代的消费者进行了半结构化访谈。在零售空间的购物语境中,揭示和探索双重意识的情境。我们的研究结果将会对bmc的相关和真实的声音做出重要贡献。建议未来的研究领域是创造更公平、安全和欢迎的零售环境。
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引用次数: 0
Creating Room for Social Justice Pedagogy in Fashion Education 为时尚教育中的社会正义教学法创造空间
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q2 Business, Management and Accounting Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221099824
Jaleesa Reed, S. Covington, Katalin Medvedev
In this paper we encourage fashion educators to consider applying social justice pedagogy to fashion education. We begin by situating the current state of fashion education within the context of neoliberalism. Social justice pedagogy is defined and introduced as an alternative approach to fashion education. Participatory action research (PAR), which aims to address the needs of disadvantaged groups, is also provided as a solution to increase social justice awareness in students, departments, and institutions. Possible starting points are provided for instructors interested in integrating social justice into their courses. While social justice pedagogy and PAR are not foolproof methods for achieving equity-related goals in the classroom, they provide a starting point for instructors interested in promoting social change through their teaching.
在本文中,我们鼓励时尚教育者考虑将社会正义教学法应用于时尚教育。我们首先将时尚教育的现状置于新自由主义的背景下。社会正义教学法被定义为时尚教育的另一种方法。参与性行动研究(PAR)旨在解决弱势群体的需求,也是提高学生、院系和机构的社会正义意识的一种解决方案。为有意将社会正义纳入其课程的教员提供了可能的起点。虽然社会正义教学法和PAR并不是在课堂上实现公平相关目标的万无一失的方法,但它们为有兴趣通过教学促进社会变革的教师提供了一个起点。
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引用次数: 1
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Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
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