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Tracing the History of Digital Fashion 追溯数字时尚的历史
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2024-09-14 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x241283504
Adil Boughlala, Anneke Smelik
This article provides the short and non-linear history of digital fashion, arguing that it is entangled with the development of digital environments and virtual worlds. Unlike material clothes, digital fashion end products are created digitally, for digital use. Digital fashion can range from digital skins for gamified environments or virtual influencers to superimposed images, Augmented Reality filters, Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs), and digital twins or phygital fashion. We trace the emergence and development of digital fashion through pivotal themes: from its relation to virtual worlds, the Internet, and e-commerce, to the implementation of avatars and fashion in videogames, to the commercially led digital fashion industry that has emerged in the past few years in what is called Web 3.0, and finally, we look at the recent surge of interest in artificial intelligence and its potential complications for digital fashion.
本文介绍了数字时尚简短而非线性的历史,认为数字时尚与数字环境和虚拟世界的发展息息相关。与物质服装不同,数字时尚的终端产品是以数字方式创建的,供数字使用。数字时尚的范围从游戏化环境或虚拟影响者的数字皮肤,到叠加图像、增强现实滤镜、不可篡改代币(NFT),以及数字双胞胎或phygital 时尚。我们将通过以下关键主题追溯数字时尚的出现和发展:从数字时尚与虚拟世界、互联网和电子商务的关系,到电子游戏中化身和时尚的实现,再到过去几年在所谓的 Web 3.0 中出现的以商业为主导的数字时尚产业,最后,我们将审视近期人工智能兴趣的激增及其对数字时尚的潜在影响。
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引用次数: 0
Evaluating 3D Apparel Simulation Technology's Performance of Creative Pattern-Cutting Techniques with the Assist of ASVT 借助 ASVT 评估三维服装模拟技术在创意图案剪裁技术方面的性能
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2024-08-28 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x241278929
Fatimah Hakeem, Sibei Xia, Casey Stannard
Three-dimensional (3D) simulation technologies have experienced a significant rise in popularity in the fashion industry. Analyzing the efficacy of such technologies aids in pinpointing areas that require enhancement. While previous studies mostly focused on evaluating the fit and appearance of 3D simulation technologies with simple clothing styles, this research aims to assess the effectiveness of 3D fashion simulation software in producing digital designs that include creative pattern-cutting techniques known for their intricate structures and design complexities. Four designs were chosen to exemplify different design characteristics, and 95 people were recruited to assess the effectiveness of two cuttingedge 3D fashion simulation programs. Furthermore, the researchers utilized the apparel spatial visualization tests (ASVT) to examine whether the participants’ spatial visualizing aptitude would impact their assessment outcomes. The findings offer suggestions for enhancing the existing 3D simulation technology and provide instructions for the assessment procedure.
三维(3D)模拟技术在时装业的普及率大幅上升。分析此类技术的功效有助于找出需要改进的地方。以往的研究大多集中在通过简单的服装款式来评估三维模拟技术的合身性和外观,而本研究旨在评估三维时装模拟软件在制作数字设计方面的效果,这些设计包括以结构复杂和设计复杂而著称的创意图案切割技术。研究人员选取了四款设计来体现不同的设计特点,并招募了 95 人对两款先进的三维时装模拟程序的有效性进行评估。此外,研究人员还利用服装空间可视化测试(ASVT)来检验参与者的空间可视化能力是否会影响评估结果。研究结果为改进现有的三维模拟技术提供了建议,并为评估程序提供了指导。
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引用次数: 0
New Filaments from Used Disposable Face Masks as an Alternative 3D Printing Filament in the 3D Printing Industry 利用用过的一次性口罩制成的新型丝材作为 3D 打印行业的替代 3D 打印丝材
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2024-07-21 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x241264484
Changhyun (Lyon) Nam, Hoyong Chung, Jessica L. Ridgway
This study aimed to examine an innovative approach for recycling and repurposing used disposable face masks to create a new 3D printing filament and to compare the mechanical properties of the developed 3D printing filament (DF) with recycled filament (RF) and commercial filament (CF). The development of the new 3D printing filaments involved examining three key pieces of information: (1) optimal melting point ranges, (2) weight, and (3) visual colors for each layer of the face mask. Using an experimental research design, the researchers melted-down disposable face masks to create the filament and analyzed its properties in comparison with RF and CF. No significant differences were identified in terms of strength among CF, RF, and DF types. The findings highlight the potential effectiveness of using disposable face masks as an alternative 3D printing material, contributing to the design and production in the 3D printing industry.
本研究旨在研究一种回收和再利用使用过的一次性口罩的创新方法,以制造一种新的三维打印长丝,并比较所开发的三维打印长丝(DF)与回收长丝(RF)和商用长丝(CF)的机械性能。新型 3D 打印长丝的开发涉及对三个关键信息的研究:(1) 最佳熔点范围;(2) 重量;(3) 面具各层的视觉颜色。研究人员采用实验研究设计,将一次性面罩熔化后制成长丝,并将其特性与 RF 和 CF 进行比较分析。在强度方面,CF、RF 和 DF 类型之间没有发现明显差异。研究结果凸显了使用一次性口罩作为替代 3D 打印材料的潜在有效性,有助于 3D 打印行业的设计和生产。
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引用次数: 0
“It's Not Just About the Outfits”: Fashioning Gender, Race, and Class on #RushTok "这不仅仅是服装的问题":在 #RushTok 上时尚性别、种族和阶级
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2024-04-03 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x241244789
Maureen Lehto Brewster
This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.
这篇手稿分析了 TikTok 上的 "每日一装"(OOTD)内容,以思考在被称为 "RushTok "的数字社交中,时尚服饰风格和社交媒体实践如何(重新)在泛壳女生联谊会中产生性别、种族和阶级规范。我使用了女权主义虚拟民族志来探究 2022 年泛希腊女学生联谊会招募周期内制作的 97 个 OOTD 视频。我在这些数据中追踪了联谊会女孩的概念,以描绘她在 RushTok 社交中的出现和影响。我发现,RushTok OOTDs 对传统时尚媒体的做法进行了重塑,这种社交中的风格-时尚-着装做法强调奢侈品牌、高度女性化但保守的风格以及身体纪律。这些都是由空间和算法逻辑(重新)塑造的,这些逻辑赋予了联谊会女孩(重新)产生白人、富有、女性化理想的特权。泛希腊女学生联谊会的逻辑与 TikTok 算法相互作用,使这种理想化的女学生联谊会更加明显,从而进一步(重新)产生了差异等级。
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引用次数: 0
Soft Biometrics in Retail Service: Understanding Privacy Paradox and Cross-Cultural Differences Regarding 3D Body Scanning Technology 零售服务中的软生物识别技术:了解 3D 人体扫描技术的隐私悖论和跨文化差异
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2023-12-25 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x231220616
Song-yi Youn, Chi‐Cheng Luan
This study aims to explore the privacy paradox and cultural difference associated with integrating soft biometric information through 3D body scanning technologies into personalized shopping services. By incorporating the theory of Concerns for Information Privacy and the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology into the Privacy Calculus Theory, the purpose of this study is to understand fashion consumers’ privacy paradox and investigate cultural differences (U.S. vs. China). A partial least squares structural equation modeling and multigroup analysis was conducted from two data sets collected online (N U.S.= 525, N China = 484). Results show that consumer concerns toward data management (i.e., collection, error, secondary use) and service excellence expectations (i.e., perceived expectance, facilitation condition, hedonic motivation) explain the privacy calculus (i.e., risk and benefit) in consumer decisions. The results indicate that error management is critical to understanding Chinese consumers’ privacy calculus, while secondary use is important for U.S. consumers.
本研究旨在探讨通过三维人体扫描技术将软性生物识别信息整合到个性化购物服务中的隐私悖论和文化差异。通过将 "信息隐私关注理论 "和 "技术接受与使用统一理论 "纳入 "隐私计算理论",本研究旨在了解时尚消费者的隐私悖论,并调查文化差异(美国与中国)。本研究通过在线收集的两组数据(美国=525,中国=484)进行了偏最小二乘法结构方程建模和多组分析。结果显示,消费者对数据管理(即收集、错误、二次使用)和卓越服务期望(即感知期望、便利条件、享乐动机)的关注解释了消费者决策中的隐私计算(即风险和收益)。研究结果表明,错误管理对于理解中国消费者的隐私计算至关重要,而二次使用对于美国消费者则很重要。
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引用次数: 0
Drapability of 3D-Printed Auxetic Structure Textiles for Wearable Products Through the Digital Image Processing Technique 基于数字图像处理技术的可穿戴产品3d打印辅助结构织物的可垂性研究
4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2023-09-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x231202223
Shahbaj Kabir, Yu Li, Mir Salahuddin, Young-A Lee
This study aimed to explore drapability of 3D-printed auxetic structure textiles with different geometries through the digital image processing technique in order to showcase their potential applications in 3D-printed wearable product development. A 13 (textile samples) × 3 (repetition) experimental research design consisting of 10 3D-printed auxetic structure textiles and three traditional lace fabrics were utilized in this study. The findings indicate that 3D-printed multi-angular auxetic structures exhibited the highest level of drapability followed by sinusoidal and triangular auxetic structures; these multi-angular structure textiles with draping coefficient ranging from 26.82% to 31.43% have a great potential to simulate traditional lace-like fabrics. A statistically significant correlation also was found between drapability and weight of 3D-printed auxetic structure textiles. This study demonstrates a true potential of 3D-printed auxetic structure textiles as alternatives of traditional lace textiles and their application in the wearable product development.
本研究旨在通过数字图像处理技术探索不同几何形状的3d打印异形结构纺织品的可垂性,以展示其在3d打印可穿戴产品开发中的潜在应用。本研究采用13(纺织品样品)× 3(重复)实验研究设计,包括10种3d打印辅助结构纺织品和3种传统蕾丝织物。研究结果表明,3d打印的多角度消声结构具有最高的可垂性,其次是正弦和三角形消声结构;悬垂系数在26.82% ~ 31.43%之间的多角度结构纺织品,具有模拟传统蕾丝面料的巨大潜力。3d打印结构织物的垂坠性与重量之间也存在统计学上的显著相关性。本研究展示了3d打印辅助结构纺织品作为传统蕾丝纺织品的替代品及其在可穿戴产品开发中的应用的真正潜力。
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引用次数: 0
Between Fashion and Piety: Hijab Influencers and Religious Communities in the Consumer Socialization of Indonesian Muslims 时尚与虔诚之间:印尼穆斯林消费社会化中的头巾影响者与宗教社群
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2023-07-31 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x231191238
Jiwon Shin, Y. Lew, Myengkyo Seo
Fashionable hijab is a trend in Muslim societies worldwide. In Indonesia, hijab commercialization has been especially prominent. This study used consumer socialization theory to examine the relationship between hijab influencers (HIs), religious factors, attitudes toward fashionable hijab, and commodified hijab-style choices. In particular, we examined involvement with HIs, HIs' influence on hijab consumption, religiosity, and religious community involvement to investigate the mechanisms of consumer socialization. Structural equation modeling revealed that hijab influencers, as consumer socialization agents, reinforced positive attitudes toward fashionable hijab, whereas religious community involvement, as a social structural variable, had a negative effect. Finally, positive attitudes toward fashionable hijab positively influenced the pursuit of commodified hijab-style choices. These findings have practical implications for vendors targeting the Indonesian market by distinguishing commodified hijab styles from conservative hijab styles and identifying the factors influencing consumers.
时髦的头巾是全世界穆斯林社会的一种趋势。在印度尼西亚,头巾商业化尤为突出。本研究使用消费者社会化理论来检验头巾影响者(HIs)、宗教因素、对时尚头巾的态度和商业化头巾风格选择之间的关系。特别地,我们研究了对伊斯兰教的参与、伊斯兰教对头巾消费、宗教信仰和宗教社区参与的影响,以调查消费者社会化的机制。结构方程模型显示,头巾影响者作为消费者社会化代理人,强化了对时尚头巾的积极态度,而宗教社区参与作为社会结构变量,具有负面影响。最后,对时尚头巾的积极态度积极影响了对商业化头巾风格选择的追求。这些发现对以印尼市场为目标的供应商具有实际意义,可以区分商品化的头巾风格和保守的头巾风格,并确定影响消费者的因素。
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引用次数: 0
Investigating the Influence of the Properties of School Uniforms on Children With Sensory Overreactivity 校服的性质对感觉过度反应儿童的影响
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2023-07-12 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x231187777
Wenette Jordaan, Lizette Diedericks, K. van Niekerk, Stefanie Kruger
This study aimed to deepen the understanding of the influence of the properties of school uniforms that may contribute to discomfort and irritation for children with sensory overreactivity. The specific objectives were (a) to identify the difficulties that children with sensory overreactivity experience when wearing a school uniform and (b) explore possible adaptations of the school uniform that can reduce the discomfort and irritation caused by the uniform. In this exploratory, qualitative study, four focus group interviews were conducted with a total sample of 16 participants. Mothers and occupational therapists that live and work with children with sensory overreactivity participated in this study. During thematic analysis, three themes emerged as important to understand the discomfort caused by a school uniform: textiles, design, and construction. This study contributes to the literature on school uniforms and the sensory aspects of clothing. Guidelines for parents are presented and future research possibilities are discussed.
本研究旨在加深对校服特性的影响的理解,这些特性可能会导致感觉过度反应儿童的不适和刺激。研究的具体目的是(a)找出有感官过度反应的儿童在穿校服时遇到的困难,以及(b)探讨如何调整校服,以减少校服带来的不适和刺激。在这个探索性质的研究中,进行了四次焦点小组访谈,共16名参与者。与感觉反应过度的儿童一起生活和工作的母亲和职业治疗师参与了这项研究。在主题分析中,有三个主题对理解校服引起的不适很重要:纺织品、设计和构造。这项研究对校服和服装感官方面的文献有所贡献。提出了给家长的指导方针,并讨论了未来研究的可能性。
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引用次数: 0
Predicting the Thermal Protective Performance of Smart Fabric Systems With a Shape Memory Layer Using Machine Learning Models 使用机器学习模型预测具有形状记忆层的智能织物系统的热防护性能
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2023-06-20 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x231183737
Mengjiao Pan, Lijun Wang, Xinyi Lu, J. Xu, Yehu Lu, Jiazhen He
The utilization of shape memory alloy (SMA) in shape memory fabric (SMF) has revolutionized thermal protective clothing, significantly enhancing its thermal protection. However, the cost- and time-consuming process of SMA shape memory training and performance testing can be optimized for improved efficiency. This study addresses this challenge by developing machine learning models to predict the thermal protection of a smart fabric system (SFS) with a SMF. The training data was sourced from the previous experimental studies, and six features significantly impacting thermal protection were identified. Results demonstrated that gradient boosting regressor (GBR) model exhibited the highest accuracy, with the SMA interval emerging as the most critical feature in determining thermal protection. Moreover, the GBR model predicted that SFS presented the best thermal protection when the dry SMF was woven by SMA of 2 cm interval and aramid 1414 of 20 roots/cm density, located between the moisture barrier and thermal liner vertically.
形状记忆合金(SMA)在形状记忆织物(SMF)中的应用使热防护服发生了革命性的变化,显著提高了其热防护性能。然而,SMA形状记忆训练和性能测试的成本和时间可以优化,以提高效率。本研究通过开发机器学习模型来预测具有SMF的智能织物系统(SFS)的热保护,从而解决了这一挑战。训练数据来源于之前的实验研究,确定了六个显著影响热防护的特征。结果表明,梯度增强回归(GBR)模型具有最高的准确性,SMA区间成为确定热防护的最关键特征。此外,GBR模型预测,当以2 cm间距的SMA和20根/cm密度的芳纶1414织造的干燥SMF垂直位于防潮层和保温衬里之间时,SFS的热防护效果最好。
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引用次数: 0
“Sharp as a Tack:” Acquisition, Influences, and Meaning of African American Church Dress “像钉子一样锋利:”非裔美国人教会服饰的获取、影响和意义
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2023-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X231173312
B. Gatterson, Sara B. Marcketti
In this study, we explored the church dress of African American women to determine the influences that motivated their style of dressing that seems to be disappearing today. Ten participants aged 70 to 100 were interviewed through an oral history approach. Analysis, including open and axial coding, was used to identify emergent themes. When viewed through the lens of Symbolic Interactionism, the participants both molded and created their identities through social interaction with fellow churchgoers. From the influence of their parents and family members in identifying the importance of church and dressing appropriately to working hard through sewing, borrowing, and shopping to creating outfits that represented their beliefs in God, to evaluating the dress of themselves, their peers, and younger women, the participants voiced a variety of reasons for wearing church dress.
在这项研究中,我们探讨了非裔美国妇女的教堂服装,以确定影响她们着装风格的因素,而这种风格如今似乎正在消失。10名年龄在70至100岁之间的参与者通过口述历史的方式接受了采访。分析,包括开放和轴向编码,被用来识别紧急主题。从象征互动主义的角度来看,参与者通过与教堂同伴的社会互动塑造和创造了他们的身份。从父母和家庭成员对教会重要性的影响,到通过缝纫、借用和购物来努力工作,再到创造代表他们对上帝信仰的服装,再到评估自己、同龄人和年轻女性的着装,参与者们表达了穿教会服装的各种原因。
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引用次数: 0
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Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
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