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Textiles Literacy: Implementing Inquiry-Based Learning in a Basic Textiles Class 纺织素养:在纺织基础课中实施探究式学习
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-12-28 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X221100434
A. Shephard
Learning about textiles provides students with an essential foundation of knowledge for a career in fashion. More research is needed to help students with comprehension and application of knowledge, or textiles literacy. The purpose of this study is to examine the impact of inquiry-based learning, a versatile student-driven pedagogy, in a basic textiles course. The inquiry-based project titled “Textiles Literacy” was developed to promote understanding and application of knowledge over memorization. Through group-led inquiry, students learned about textiles by applying creativity, critical thinking, literacy, communication, and teamwork skills. At the conclusion of the project, students responded to five open-ended questions about their project experience. Analysis resulted in five primary themes: impact on understanding textiles, role of textiles in fashion, attitude, skills and knowledge, and likelihood to seek further knowledge. Overall, the inquiry-based learning “Textiles Literacy” project had a positive impact on student appreciation, and attitude toward learning about textiles.
学习纺织品为学生在时尚行业的职业生涯提供了重要的知识基础。需要更多的研究来帮助学生理解和应用知识,或纺织品素养。本研究的目的是研究探究性学习,一种以学生为导向的多功能教学法,在纺织基础课程中的影响。这个以探究为基础的项目名为“纺织品素养”,旨在促进知识的理解和应用,而不是死记硬背。通过小组探究,学生们通过运用创意、批判性思维、读写能力、沟通能力和团队合作能力来了解纺织品。在项目结束时,学生们回答了五个关于他们项目经历的开放式问题。分析产生了五个主要主题:对理解纺织品的影响,纺织品在时尚中的作用,态度,技能和知识,以及寻求进一步知识的可能性。总体而言,探究性学习“纺织品素养”项目对学生对纺织品的欣赏和学习态度有积极的影响。
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引用次数: 0
Embedding 3D Printed Filaments with Knitted Textiles: Investigation of Bonding Parameters 用针织纺织品嵌入3D打印细丝:粘合参数的研究
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-12-23 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20982927
Gozde Goncu-Berk, B. Karacan, Ilke Balkis
The advancements in additive manufacturing technology and new materials paved the way for 3D printed textile-like structures. However, achieving the comfort and fit of traditional textiles and joining of the 3D printed segments have been challenging. Embedding 3D printed polymers with textiles using fused deposition modeling offers possibilities for innovative hybrid structures and end-products without compromising on the flexibility and unique qualities of the traditional textiles. This study investigates 3D printing of flexible thermoplastic polyurethane, thermoplastic elastomer and rigid polylactic acid filaments on polyester and polyamide knitted textiles, and on laminated neoprene textiles. Perpendicular and shear tensile strength are tested before and after washing the samples manufactured by direct deposition of different filaments onto different textiles in multiple 3D forms. Results show that TPU filament is compatible with all textile surfaces and neoprene shows the best adhesion with all filament types before and after washing.
增材制造技术和新材料的进步为3D打印类纺织品结构铺平了道路。然而,实现传统纺织品的舒适性和贴合性以及3D打印部分的加入一直具有挑战性。使用熔融沉积建模将3D打印聚合物嵌入纺织品中,为创新的混合结构和最终产品提供了可能性,而不会影响传统纺织品的灵活性和独特品质。本研究研究了柔性热塑性聚氨酯、热塑性弹性体和刚性聚乳酸长丝在聚酯和聚酰胺针织纺织品以及层压氯丁橡胶纺织品上的3D打印。通过将不同的长丝直接沉积在不同的纺织品上,以多种3D形式制造样品,在洗涤前后测试垂直和剪切拉伸强度。结果表明,TPU长丝与所有织物表面都具有良好的相容性,其中氯丁橡胶在洗涤前后与所有长丝的附着力最好。
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引用次数: 10
Swagger Like Us: Black Millennials’ Perceptions, Knowledge, and Influence of 1980s and 1990s Urban Fashion Brands 《像我们一样昂首阔步:黑人千禧一代对上世纪八九十年代都市时尚品牌的认知、知识和影响
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-12-03 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20976634
Courtney Johnson, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Eulanda A. Sanders
In New York City in the late 1970s, the Black community created hip-hop, a significant cultural phenomenon, which has since spread around the world. Our research is centered on the revolutionary hip-hop fashion movement in Black history as it relates to Black millennials’ experiences of fashioning their bodies. We examine the perception of Black millennials who are attending or have attended historically Black colleges and universities (HBCU) and their knowledge and perceptions of prominent Black-owned, urban fashion brands that emerged in the 1980s and 1990s. Additionally, we seek to understand how or if these brands influence Black millennial consumers and their stylistic choices today. We used a qualitative approach and conducted 14 in-depth, semistructured interviews. Based on analysis of the data, we identified four themes: awareness of urban styles; ambiguous perceptions; 1980s and 1990s urban style influence; and awareness of cultural appropriation. We offer implications to the apparel industry.
在20世纪70年代末的纽约市,黑人社区创造了嘻哈音乐,这是一种重要的文化现象,后来传播到世界各地。我们的研究集中在黑人历史上革命性的嘻哈时尚运动,因为它与千禧一代黑人塑造自己身体的经历有关。我们研究了正在或曾经就读于传统黑人学院和大学(HBCU)的千禧一代黑人的看法,以及他们对20世纪80年代和90年代出现的著名黑人拥有的城市时尚品牌的认识和看法。此外,我们试图了解这些品牌如何或是否影响了千禧一代的黑人消费者及其今天的风格选择。我们采用了定性方法,进行了14次深入的半结构化访谈。基于对数据的分析,我们确定了四个主题:城市风格意识;模糊的看法;八九十年代城市风格的影响;以及对文化挪用的意识。我们为服装行业提供启示。
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引用次数: 1
Aesthetic Identity Development Among Trans Adolescents and Young Adults 跨性别青少年与青年的审美认同发展
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-12-02 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20975382
Jenifer K. McGuire, Andrew Reilly
Dress is used by transgender and nonbinary (TNB) individuals as a way to develop and maintain identity, whether to reinforce a binary gender code or disrupt social expectations. However, safety issues of living in a society where TNB persons are discriminated against, harassed, and assaulted, and where binary gender violations are met with resistance, creates tension between expression of authentic gender identity and navigation of social systems. A framework for creating an aesthetic identity based on dress and identity development scholarship was created and used to analyze responses from interviews with 90 TNB individuals located in the United States, Canada, and Ireland. Findings revealed the dialectic tension between performativity and safety. The framework explores aesthetic identity through concepts including sensory, cognitive, and emotional aspects of clothing; scaffolding and feedback; role making and role taking; and exploration and commitment. Limitations and future research are discussed.
着装被跨性别和非二元性别(TNB)个体用作发展和维持身份的一种方式,无论是加强二元性别代码还是破坏社会期望。然而,在TNB人受到歧视、骚扰和攻击,二元性别侵犯受到抵制的社会中生活的安全问题,在真实性别认同的表达与社会制度的导航之间产生了紧张关系。我们创建了一个基于着装和身份发展奖学金的美学身份创建框架,并用于分析来自美国、加拿大和爱尔兰的90名TNB个人的采访反应。研究结果揭示了表演性与安全性之间的辩证张力。该框架通过服装的感官、认知和情感方面的概念来探索审美认同;搭建和反馈;角色塑造与角色担当;探索和承诺。讨论了局限性和未来的研究方向。
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引用次数: 1
Smart Wireless Charging Heating Insoles: Improving Body Thermal Comfort of Young Males in an Extremely Cold Environment 智能无线充电加热鞋垫:提高年轻男性在极冷环境下的身体热舒适性
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-11-24 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20973960
Zihao Chen, Jialin Li, Wenfang Song, Yehu Lu, Bifei Cao
Currently, no study was retrieved for scientifically design heating insoles and evaluating their actual effectiveness in improving body thermal comfort of occupational workers in extremely cold environments. To fill this gap, novel smart wireless charging heating insoles (SWHI) were developed, consisting of electrically heating pads targeted at the toe and heel regions. Seven young males were asked to perform twice repeated cycles of 50-min treadmill walking at 4.0 km/h and 20-min standing to simulate the occupational moderate intensity work in HEAT (i.e., safety boots with SWHI) and CON (i.e., boots with SWHI by removing heating system) inside a climatic chamber (−10 °C and 60% RH). Results demonstrated that HEAT could significantly elevate toe and heel temperatures (p < .05), remarkably improve feet- and whole-body thermal and comfort sensations (p < .05). The novel SWHI was highly suggested as an effective method for improving body thermal comfort of occupational workers in extremely cold environments.
目前还没有科学设计加热鞋垫并评估其在极寒环境下提高职业工人身体热舒适性的实际效果的研究。为了填补这一空白,新型智能无线充电加热鞋垫(SWHI)被开发出来,由针对脚趾和脚跟区域的电热垫组成。7名年轻男性被要求以4.0 km/h的速度在跑步机上行走50分钟和站立20分钟进行两次重复循环,以模拟在气候室(- 10°C和60% RH)中使用HEAT(即带有SWHI的安全靴)和CON(即不带加热系统的带有SWHI的靴子)进行的职业性中等强度工作。结果表明,HEAT可以显著提高脚趾和脚跟温度(p < 0.05),显著改善足部和全身的热感和舒适感(p < 0.05)。这种新型的SWHI被认为是改善极寒环境下职业工人身体热舒适性的有效方法。
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引用次数: 4
Clothing Taskscape as an Approach Toward Assessment of User Needs 服装任务场景作为一种评估用户需求的方法
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-11-06 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20968818
Sandra Tullio-Pow, M. Strickfaden
This study highlights use of the clothing taskscape (CT) to assess user needs, characterize design problems, and develop design criteria by considering relationships across people, their clothing, environments, activities, and tasks. Two case studies—a liquor store uniform and outdoor winter sporting clothing for seated clients—are used to illustrate how the CT may be operationalized. Data collection included observation and interviews to identify problems and determine design attributes needed in our respective clothing categories. Data were thematically analyzed. Findings in the uniform case study included problems related to uniform styling, fit, fabric, branding, and visual identity. Findings in the winter sporting clothing case study included procurement, garment styling, fit, branding, visual identity, storage of personal effects, storage of large-sized garments, and laundering practices. Use of the CT has the potential to guide designers toward more holistic assessment of the use scenario to assess user needs and develop design criteria.
本研究强调了服装任务场景(CT)的使用,通过考虑人、他们的服装、环境、活动和任务之间的关系来评估用户需求、描述设计问题并制定设计标准。两个案例研究——酒类商店的制服和为坐着的客户提供的户外冬季运动服——用来说明CT如何操作。数据收集包括观察和访谈,以发现问题并确定我们各自服装类别所需的设计属性。对数据进行主题分析。制服案例研究的发现包括与制服样式、合身度、面料、品牌和视觉识别相关的问题。冬季运动服装案例研究的发现包括采购、服装造型、合身度、品牌、视觉识别、个人物品的存放、大码服装的存放和洗涤行为。CT的使用有可能引导设计师对使用场景进行更全面的评估,以评估用户需求并制定设计标准。
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引用次数: 0
Green With Fear: Fear Appeals and Temporal Framing in Eco-Friendly Clothing Advertising 恐惧中的绿色:环保服装广告中的恐惧诉求与时间框架
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-11-06 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20968821
Bin Shen, Yana Kim
This study examines how fear appeals (moderate vs. high) and temporal frames (proximal vs. distal) interactively influenced consumers' attitude and purchase intention in the framework of eco-friendly clothing advertising in China. For that purpose, empirical analyses were performed by collecting data from 640 consumers across Mainland China. Results revealed that consumers who perceived eco-friendly clothing as highly relevant to themselves expressed more favorable attitude toward the advertising that employed moderate-level fear appeals than the advertising that employed high-level fear appeals. As for consumers with a low level of perceived personal relevance, they showed the most favorable attitude toward the brand when being exposed to high-level fear appeals with a distal frame, and the least favorable attitude toward the brand when being exposed to moderate-level fear appeals with a distal frame. These research results provide significant theoretical and practical implications for scholars and eco-friendly marketing professionals.
本研究考察了在中国环保服装广告的框架下,恐惧诉求(中等vs高)和时间框架(近端vs远端)是如何交互影响消费者态度和购买意愿的。为此,我们收集了中国大陆640位消费者的数据,进行了实证分析。结果显示,认为环保服装与自己高度相关的消费者对采用中度恐惧诉求的广告比采用高水平恐惧诉求的广告表现出更有利的态度。对于感知个人关联水平较低的消费者而言,他们在面对远端框架的高水平恐惧诉求时对品牌的态度最为有利,而在面对远端框架的中等水平恐惧诉求时,对品牌的态度最为不利。这些研究结果对学者和环保营销专业人士具有重要的理论和实践意义。
{"title":"Green With Fear: Fear Appeals and Temporal Framing in Eco-Friendly Clothing Advertising","authors":"Bin Shen, Yana Kim","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20968821","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20968821","url":null,"abstract":"This study examines how fear appeals (moderate vs. high) and temporal frames (proximal vs. distal) interactively influenced consumers' attitude and purchase intention in the framework of eco-friendly clothing advertising in China. For that purpose, empirical analyses were performed by collecting data from 640 consumers across Mainland China. Results revealed that consumers who perceived eco-friendly clothing as highly relevant to themselves expressed more favorable attitude toward the advertising that employed moderate-level fear appeals than the advertising that employed high-level fear appeals. As for consumers with a low level of perceived personal relevance, they showed the most favorable attitude toward the brand when being exposed to high-level fear appeals with a distal frame, and the least favorable attitude toward the brand when being exposed to moderate-level fear appeals with a distal frame. These research results provide significant theoretical and practical implications for scholars and eco-friendly marketing professionals.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"41 1","pages":"154 - 168"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-11-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75867633","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 5
Effect of Elastane Parameters on the Dimensional and Mechanical Properties of Stretchable Denim Fabrics 弹性纤维参数对可拉伸牛仔织物尺寸及力学性能的影响
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-11-03 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20968812
M. Qadir, Zulfiqar Ali, A. Afzal, Muhammad Irfan, T. Hussain, M. Malik, M. W. Iqbal, A. Shahzad, Adnan Ahmad, Zubair Khaliq
Denim is one of the most popular casual apparel all over the globe due to a variety of available looks, comfort, and convenience. Comfort and performance properties of stretched denim fabrics depend on the elastane content, which can be controlled through the linear density of elastane and draft-ratio in the core of the cotton yarn. Optimization of both of linear density and draft-ratio of elastane for the better performance of denim fabric were focused upon in this study. The results indicated that the elastane content inside the core of yarn affects the dimensional and mechanical properties of denim fabrics. Regression analysis indicated that elastane linear-density and draft-ratio had an almost equal significance on contraction after washing, stretchability, stiffness, skewness, and bow of fabric. However, the elastic properties of fabric were mainly dependent on the elastane draft-ratio. This study will be an endeavor for industry personnel to achieve more durable and dimensionally stable denim fabrics.
牛仔布是全球最受欢迎的休闲服装之一,因为它有各种各样的外观,舒适和方便。弹力牛仔面料的舒适性和性能取决于弹力素的含量,弹力素的含量可以通过棉纱芯部弹力素的线密度和牵伸比来控制。为提高牛仔织物的性能,重点研究了弹性橡胶的线密度和牵伸比的优化。结果表明,纱线芯内弹性烷含量对牛仔织物的尺寸和力学性能有影响。回归分析表明,弹性纤维线密度和牵伸比对织物的洗后收缩率、拉伸性、刚度、偏度和弯曲度的影响几乎相等。然而,织物的弹性性能主要取决于弹性拉伸比。本研究将为业界人士提供更耐用、尺寸更稳定的牛仔布面料。
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引用次数: 1
Negotiations of Women’s Black and Activist Identity Through Dress on the College Campus, 2013–2019 2013-2019年,大学校园中女性黑人和活动家身份的着装谈判
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-10-30 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20968809
Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
Black people, especially Black women, have used dress to reject racism and discrimination and as a means for negotiating their Black and activist identities. Building on past work, we examine how Black women use dress as an embodied practice to negotiate both their Black and activist identities. We focus on a particular space and time: campus life at predominantly White institutions during the Black Lives Matter movement era from 2013 to 2019.To achieve this purpose, we conducted 15 in-depth, semistructured wardrobe interviews with current Black women college students. Overall, we identified three themes relating to Black women college students: experiences on predominantly White campuses, negotiating Black identity through dress, and negotiating activist identity through dress. Examining how Black women negotiate identity through dress recognizes their stories as important through counter-storytelling, allowing Black women to write their own history in their own voices.
黑人,特别是黑人妇女,用着装来反对种族主义和歧视,并作为一种手段来谈判他们的黑人和活动家身份。在过去工作的基础上,我们研究了黑人女性如何将着装作为一种具体化的实践来协商她们的黑人和活动家身份。我们关注的是一个特定的时空:2013年至2019年“黑人的命也是命”运动时期,以白人为主的大学校园生活。为了达到这个目的,我们对在校黑人女大学生进行了15次深入的、半结构化的着装采访。总的来说,我们确定了与黑人女大学生有关的三个主题:在白人占主导地位的校园里的经历,通过着装来协商黑人身份,以及通过着装来协商活动家身份。研究黑人女性如何通过着装来协商身份认同,认识到她们的故事通过反叙事是重要的,允许黑人女性用自己的声音书写自己的历史。
{"title":"Negotiations of Women’s Black and Activist Identity Through Dress on the College Campus, 2013–2019","authors":"Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20968809","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20968809","url":null,"abstract":"Black people, especially Black women, have used dress to reject racism and discrimination and as a means for negotiating their Black and activist identities. Building on past work, we examine how Black women use dress as an embodied practice to negotiate both their Black and activist identities. We focus on a particular space and time: campus life at predominantly White institutions during the Black Lives Matter movement era from 2013 to 2019.To achieve this purpose, we conducted 15 in-depth, semistructured wardrobe interviews with current Black women college students. Overall, we identified three themes relating to Black women college students: experiences on predominantly White campuses, negotiating Black identity through dress, and negotiating activist identity through dress. Examining how Black women negotiate identity through dress recognizes their stories as important through counter-storytelling, allowing Black women to write their own history in their own voices.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"216 1","pages":"91 - 106"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-10-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80396265","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Knitting With and for Others: Repercussions on Motivation 与他人编织和为他人编织:动机的影响
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-10-28 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20969867
Judit Rusiñol-Rodriguez, M. Rodríguez-Bailón, Anna Ramon-Aribau, Marc Torra, P. Miralles
Knitting is an activity that generates well-being and that can be undertaken in a group. It is characterized by the creation of a final piece, which may have different purposes. The aims of this study were to explore the effects of knitting in a natural group, as well as examining the impact that the purpose of the piece created might have on the motivation to knit. A mixed methodology was used with one group of knitters, under two conditions: knitting for oneself and for others. The data was collected through a volitional questionnaire, personal diaries and semi-structured interviews. The participants expressed that knitting gave them a sense of well-being and relaxation. Carrying out this activity in a group also enabled them to have the possibility of learning and teaching. Knitting for others is more meaningful than knitting for oneself because they knitted for people they cared for.
编织是一种产生幸福感的活动,可以在一群人中进行。它的特点是创造一个最终的作品,这可能有不同的目的。本研究的目的是探索在自然群体中编织的影响,以及检查作品创作的目的可能对编织动机的影响。一组编织者在两种条件下采用混合方法:为自己和为他人编织。数据是通过自愿问卷、个人日记和半结构化访谈收集的。参与者表示,编织给他们一种幸福感和放松感。在小组中开展这项活动也使他们有了学习和教学的可能性。为别人编织比为自己编织更有意义,因为他们为他们关心的人编织。
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引用次数: 4
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Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
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