Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.104
Jakob A. Klein
{"title":"Review: What a Mushroom Lives For: Matsutake and the Worlds They Make, by Michael J. Hathaway, foreword by Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing","authors":"Jakob A. Klein","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.104","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.104","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88574242","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.103
S. Hamada
{"title":"Review: The Delicacy, a film by Jason Wise","authors":"S. Hamada","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.103","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"604 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77439997","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.17
S. Freedman
Eels, pie, mash, and liquor is the traditional but largely forgotten food of the cockney, London working class. This paper examines the ingredients, rituals, and culture in one of the few remaining shops that serve a historical dish that is a living gustatory link with a hyper-local, early capitalist past and a gastro-nationalist present. The work takes as its starting point a sensory ethnographic investigation that interrogates a partially hidden world of performative, nostalgic memorialization in one of the very few de facto proletarian spaces within a city of neoliberal modernity. The spaces are, I argue, a negotiation with, and a micro-resistance to, the hegemonic culture memorialized within a largely insular, conservative cockney culture infused with a local patriotism. It further examines a food culture coded through ideas of respectability and manners, and via the concept of a “classed” body, the notion of sensation, disgust, and impurity that condense time and memory around the metaphor of the eel as cockney.
{"title":"Resistances from a Stubborn Past","authors":"S. Freedman","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.17","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.17","url":null,"abstract":"Eels, pie, mash, and liquor is the traditional but largely forgotten food of the cockney, London working class. This paper examines the ingredients, rituals, and culture in one of the few remaining shops that serve a historical dish that is a living gustatory link with a hyper-local, early capitalist past and a gastro-nationalist present. The work takes as its starting point a sensory ethnographic investigation that interrogates a partially hidden world of performative, nostalgic memorialization in one of the very few de facto proletarian spaces within a city of neoliberal modernity. The spaces are, I argue, a negotiation with, and a micro-resistance to, the hegemonic culture memorialized within a largely insular, conservative cockney culture infused with a local patriotism. It further examines a food culture coded through ideas of respectability and manners, and via the concept of a “classed” body, the notion of sensation, disgust, and impurity that condense time and memory around the metaphor of the eel as cockney.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"18 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83546137","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.100
P. Charbonneau, J. Pilcher
Although the origins of the popular candy called fudge have been traced to American industrial processed foods of the 1880s, an early version known as panochita de leche was made in eighteenth-century Mexico using only rustic brown sugar and milk. The authors of this article combined the methodologies of physical chemistry and food history to examine the development of this dish using the science of sugar refining as well as manuscript and published cookbook recipes, memoirs, and travel accounts. Given the lack of Old World confectionery antecedents to the key technique of whisking the cooling sugar to induce crystallization, they attribute panochita to vernacular Mexican traditions of sugar refining and candy making.
尽管这种被称为软糖的流行糖果的起源可以追溯到19世纪80年代的美国工业加工食品，但一种被称为panochita de leche的早期版本是在18世纪的墨西哥用质朴的红糖和牛奶制成的。这篇文章的作者结合了物理化学和食物历史的方法，利用糖精制科学、手稿和出版的食谱、回忆录和旅行记录来研究这道菜的发展。由于没有旧世界的糖果技术，比如将冷却的糖搅拌以诱导结晶，他们将panochita归因于墨西哥本土的糖精制和糖果制作传统。
{"title":"From Panocha to Fudge","authors":"P. Charbonneau, J. Pilcher","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.100","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.100","url":null,"abstract":"Although the origins of the popular candy called fudge have been traced to American industrial processed foods of the 1880s, an early version known as panochita de leche was made in eighteenth-century Mexico using only rustic brown sugar and milk. The authors of this article combined the methodologies of physical chemistry and food history to examine the development of this dish using the science of sugar refining as well as manuscript and published cookbook recipes, memoirs, and travel accounts. Given the lack of Old World confectionery antecedents to the key technique of whisking the cooling sugar to induce crystallization, they attribute panochita to vernacular Mexican traditions of sugar refining and candy making.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153449","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.118
Joseph P. Feldman
{"title":"Review: Gastropolitics and the Specter of Race: Stories of Capital, Culture, and Coloniality in Peru, by María Elena García","authors":"Joseph P. Feldman","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.118","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.118","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153715","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.38
Amanda J. Hilton
This article draws on the concept of authenticity as it is often deployed in regards to food, and specifically in regards to foods with Geographical Indication certifications (GIs). Authenticity, as a concept, does boundary work by coding some objects or subjects as authentic, defining them against inauthentic others. Power dynamics inhere in any use of the processes of authentication, which render the authentic as noteworthy (Bendix 1997). Following calls to practice the “arts of noticing” (Tsing 2015) and to question our own ethnographic categories (De Martino 1975), this article takes the case of the olive oil sector in Sicily, Italy, and Sicilian Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) extra virgin olive oil, to think through authenticity and processes of authentication through the lens of two related concepts: quality (qualità) and genuineness (genuinità). I conceptualize qualità as a top-down articulation of authenticity: Sicilian olive and olive oil producers’ articulation of authenticity and excellence in response to a global hierarchy of value (Herzfeld 2004) in which they are situated and to which they respond. Genuinità, on the other hand, I argue is a bottom-up articulation of authenticity and goodness, one concerned less with international recognition and chemical purity and more with social relationships of trust and practices of commensality. I argue that qualità is a powerful measure of authenticity and a livelihood strategy for Sicilian oliviculturalists, but that genuinità is perhaps an even more powerful measure of authenticity in its capacity to create or reinscribe social bonds.
{"title":"Quality and Genuineness in the World of Sicilian Olive Oil","authors":"Amanda J. Hilton","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.38","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.38","url":null,"abstract":"This article draws on the concept of authenticity as it is often deployed in regards to food, and specifically in regards to foods with Geographical Indication certifications (GIs). Authenticity, as a concept, does boundary work by coding some objects or subjects as authentic, defining them against inauthentic others. Power dynamics inhere in any use of the processes of authentication, which render the authentic as noteworthy (Bendix 1997). Following calls to practice the “arts of noticing” (Tsing 2015) and to question our own ethnographic categories (De Martino 1975), this article takes the case of the olive oil sector in Sicily, Italy, and Sicilian Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) extra virgin olive oil, to think through authenticity and processes of authentication through the lens of two related concepts: quality (qualità) and genuineness (genuinità). I conceptualize qualità as a top-down articulation of authenticity: Sicilian olive and olive oil producers’ articulation of authenticity and excellence in response to a global hierarchy of value (Herzfeld 2004) in which they are situated and to which they respond. Genuinità, on the other hand, I argue is a bottom-up articulation of authenticity and goodness, one concerned less with international recognition and chemical purity and more with social relationships of trust and practices of commensality. I argue that qualità is a powerful measure of authenticity and a livelihood strategy for Sicilian oliviculturalists, but that genuinità is perhaps an even more powerful measure of authenticity in its capacity to create or reinscribe social bonds.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67154064","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.13
E. Krause
This article argues for the value of authenticity as an analytic. “Authentic possibilities” plays on a double meaning. In one sense, possibilities may be “authentic” in terms of what is true, real, original, grounded, or not fake. In another sense, authenticity as a concept may offer possibilities for analysts to notice how value is created. This article draws on long-term as well as disrupted ethnographic research in the Made in Italy arena across two sectors—slow figs and fast fashion—to theorize authentic possibilities. Fieldwork disruptions caused by the COVID-19 pandemic opened conceptual space to propose a nonbinary approach to authenticities. In breaking from the authentic–inauthentic binary and taking inspiration from artisanal producers of figs, the article offers authenticities as an analytic to illuminate uncommon lessons. Fig producers straddle discipline and improvisation, sustaining and generating novel and nuanced forms of authenticity. The taste of authenticity may be unpredictable and even at odds with tradition. The article draws inspiration from theorists who signal authenticity’s dynamic qualities whether through the slowness of food (Grasseni 2017), the realness of food (Weiss 2012), the emplacement of value (Cavanaugh and Shankar 2014), the power of reverse engineering terroir (Paxson 2010), and “stifling” aspects of authenticity (Gross 2020). The article is structured around four heterogenous instruments: place, fieldwork, discipline, and vulnerability. Takeaways propose possibilities and limits of authenticity for critical food studies.
{"title":"Authentic Possibilities","authors":"E. Krause","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.13","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.13","url":null,"abstract":"This article argues for the value of authenticity as an analytic. “Authentic possibilities” plays on a double meaning. In one sense, possibilities may be “authentic” in terms of what is true, real, original, grounded, or not fake. In another sense, authenticity as a concept may offer possibilities for analysts to notice how value is created. This article draws on long-term as well as disrupted ethnographic research in the Made in Italy arena across two sectors—slow figs and fast fashion—to theorize authentic possibilities. Fieldwork disruptions caused by the COVID-19 pandemic opened conceptual space to propose a nonbinary approach to authenticities. In breaking from the authentic–inauthentic binary and taking inspiration from artisanal producers of figs, the article offers authenticities as an analytic to illuminate uncommon lessons. Fig producers straddle discipline and improvisation, sustaining and generating novel and nuanced forms of authenticity. The taste of authenticity may be unpredictable and even at odds with tradition. The article draws inspiration from theorists who signal authenticity’s dynamic qualities whether through the slowness of food (Grasseni 2017), the realness of food (Weiss 2012), the emplacement of value (Cavanaugh and Shankar 2014), the power of reverse engineering terroir (Paxson 2010), and “stifling” aspects of authenticity (Gross 2020). The article is structured around four heterogenous instruments: place, fieldwork, discipline, and vulnerability. Takeaways propose possibilities and limits of authenticity for critical food studies.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153846","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.83
Alex Ketchum
This article discusses the history of kitchen computers and robots in the United States in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Kitchen computers are programmable devices located in kitchens that perform logical operations and are often equipped with software to aid in cooking. However, as discussed in this article, marketers and journalists tend to anthropomorphize kitchen computers in descriptions and discuss these kitchen computers as if they are robots. Robots are machines that are programmable by a computer, which can carry out a complex series of actions automatically. Kitchen robots, therefore, are related to kitchen computers yet are not the same thing. In the cultural imaginary, including in movies, television, and advertisements, kitchen robots represent the desire for leisure, luxury, and a reprieve from the burdens of cooking. However, the development of these technologies and their surrounding discourse were more complicated than films and computer magazines made them out to be. Kitchen robots and computers are typically coded as white and female. Their marketing promotes a retrofuturist vision in which outdated gender models are projected onto contemporary—or even emerging—technologies that reinscribe sexist, racist, and heterosexist stereotypes. While the promise of kitchen computers and robots seems progressive, these technologies do not threaten the gendered division of household cooking. Instead, these devices offered women a reprieve from the drudgery of kitchen tasks through a capitalist solution: a product buys a woman’s reprieve rather than upending the nuclear heterosexual family and redefining household roles that create a more equitable division of housework.
{"title":"Kitchen Bytes","authors":"Alex Ketchum","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.83","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.83","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses the history of kitchen computers and robots in the United States in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Kitchen computers are programmable devices located in kitchens that perform logical operations and are often equipped with software to aid in cooking. However, as discussed in this article, marketers and journalists tend to anthropomorphize kitchen computers in descriptions and discuss these kitchen computers as if they are robots. Robots are machines that are programmable by a computer, which can carry out a complex series of actions automatically. Kitchen robots, therefore, are related to kitchen computers yet are not the same thing. In the cultural imaginary, including in movies, television, and advertisements, kitchen robots represent the desire for leisure, luxury, and a reprieve from the burdens of cooking. However, the development of these technologies and their surrounding discourse were more complicated than films and computer magazines made them out to be. Kitchen robots and computers are typically coded as white and female. Their marketing promotes a retrofuturist vision in which outdated gender models are projected onto contemporary—or even emerging—technologies that reinscribe sexist, racist, and heterosexist stereotypes. While the promise of kitchen computers and robots seems progressive, these technologies do not threaten the gendered division of household cooking. Instead, these devices offered women a reprieve from the drudgery of kitchen tasks through a capitalist solution: a product buys a woman’s reprieve rather than upending the nuclear heterosexual family and redefining household roles that create a more equitable division of housework.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67154426","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.37
Sarah-Louise Ruder, E. Bowness, Angela Mcintyre, At Grant, L. Newman
{"title":"Tasting the “Future of Food” on a Bay-Area Cellular Agriculture Tour","authors":"Sarah-Louise Ruder, E. Bowness, Angela Mcintyre, At Grant, L. Newman","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.37","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.37","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"14 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91289333","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.52
A. Koempel
This study uncovers the ways rural Appalachian Kentuckians adopt disordered eating patterns in highly motivated attempts to lose weight. The author engages with affective political ecology to explore what disordered eating is, what might produce it, and what it produces in others. This study utilized a mixed-methods approach. Pre-surveys (June 2020; n = 182) and post-surveys (March 2021; n = 56) included the twenty-six-question Eating Attitudes Test (EAT-26) to assess rates of disordered eating, along with demographic and food procurement questions. Participant observation and thirty-two (August–December 2020; n = 32) in-depth semi-structured interviews provide experiential and self-reported data about disordered eating behaviors. Twenty percent of survey respondents had a high overall score on the EAT-26. All interview participants reported engaging in and/or observing disordered eating behaviors in efforts to lose weight, which produced ripples of embodied experiences. Disordered eating slipped between bodily boundaries, altering the material and felt realities of family, friends, and coworkers of dieters. These data suggest high rates of disordered eating behaviors among participants, due primarily to dieting for weight loss. This counters the stereotype of the fat rural resident as lazy or unmotivated while offering fertile grounds for exploring affective political ecology and the sociality of disordered eating.
{"title":"“She’s Afraid of Gaining Weight and Losing Her Husband”","authors":"A. Koempel","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.52","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.52","url":null,"abstract":"This study uncovers the ways rural Appalachian Kentuckians adopt disordered eating patterns in highly motivated attempts to lose weight. The author engages with affective political ecology to explore what disordered eating is, what might produce it, and what it produces in others. This study utilized a mixed-methods approach. Pre-surveys (June 2020; n = 182) and post-surveys (March 2021; n = 56) included the twenty-six-question Eating Attitudes Test (EAT-26) to assess rates of disordered eating, along with demographic and food procurement questions. Participant observation and thirty-two (August–December 2020; n = 32) in-depth semi-structured interviews provide experiential and self-reported data about disordered eating behaviors. Twenty percent of survey respondents had a high overall score on the EAT-26. All interview participants reported engaging in and/or observing disordered eating behaviors in efforts to lose weight, which produced ripples of embodied experiences. Disordered eating slipped between bodily boundaries, altering the material and felt realities of family, friends, and coworkers of dieters. These data suggest high rates of disordered eating behaviors among participants, due primarily to dieting for weight loss. This counters the stereotype of the fat rural resident as lazy or unmotivated while offering fertile grounds for exploring affective political ecology and the sociality of disordered eating.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87371383","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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