Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.105
Dana Landress
{"title":"Review: Violent Appetites: Hunger in the Early Northeast, by Carla Cevasco","authors":"Dana Landress","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.105","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.105","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"193 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73759676","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.28
Jillian R. Cavanaugh
This article focuses on absence and exclusion within heritage food making in northern Italy. These absences and exclusions are structured by race and gender inequalities and not incidental to heritage food making but built into it. I argue for an understanding of heritage foods as what Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing (2015) has called “capitalist ruins,” or that which is left behind when capitalist structures and forms recede from particular landscapes and sites, leaving people to piece together livelihoods in the aftermath. To do this, I draw from my long-term ethnographic and linguistic anthropological research with heritage food makers in northern Italy, who primarily create various types of meat-based products, like salamis and sausages. The local concept of “nostrano” (our local) generates a type of authenticity that is also a chronotope, or a fusion of notions of time and space, which is key to how exclusions and absences are structured. Thinking of heritage food as a capitalist ruin, that is, as a product of capitalism and the inequalities it perpetuates, shows that although heritage food may be an answer for some—to save our way of doing things, our history, our livelihoods—it may also, perhaps always and simultaneously, be perilous and exclusionary for others.
{"title":"Authenticity and Its Perils","authors":"Jillian R. Cavanaugh","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.28","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.28","url":null,"abstract":"This article focuses on absence and exclusion within heritage food making in northern Italy. These absences and exclusions are structured by race and gender inequalities and not incidental to heritage food making but built into it. I argue for an understanding of heritage foods as what Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing (2015) has called “capitalist ruins,” or that which is left behind when capitalist structures and forms recede from particular landscapes and sites, leaving people to piece together livelihoods in the aftermath. To do this, I draw from my long-term ethnographic and linguistic anthropological research with heritage food makers in northern Italy, who primarily create various types of meat-based products, like salamis and sausages. The local concept of “nostrano” (our local) generates a type of authenticity that is also a chronotope, or a fusion of notions of time and space, which is key to how exclusions and absences are structured. Thinking of heritage food as a capitalist ruin, that is, as a product of capitalism and the inequalities it perpetuates, shows that although heritage food may be an answer for some—to save our way of doing things, our history, our livelihoods—it may also, perhaps always and simultaneously, be perilous and exclusionary for others.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153901","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.iv
J. Farrer
{"title":"An Academic Diptych","authors":"J. Farrer","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.iv","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.iv","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67154584","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.51
C. Grasseni
The politics of scale is the main issue within and around debates on whether geographical indications are the best strategy to support local economies. Two PDO cheeses are made in Val Taleggio. While Taleggio PDO has outscaled the valley and its interests, Strachìtunt PDO was reinvented to be at scale for the valley’s producers. I explain the two-step transition in the producers’ communicative strategy, from a language of heritage cheese and its “prestige” to a multispecies language that stresses the importance of a “working landscape” as a value in itself, focusing in particular on the producers’ post-COVID-19 manifesto as “keepers of molds.” Guardianship emerges from it as a new form of authenticity that does not run in the strictures of terroir-discourse. The article thus spells out which role authenticity plays in the politics of scale and how it contributes to the small-scale producers’ dilemma of how to craft a future for themselves and their communities. I contextualize this vis-a-vis secondary sources that also stress the conceptual and political creativity of cheese-makers’ strategies to revitalize regional (dairy) economies. Food producers are experimenting with new ways of mobilizing heritage to claim guardianship of their trade, craft, and territory. A transnational producer discourse emerges through a redesign of food heritage, front-staging the ecological meaning of craft.
{"title":"Crafting Futures through Cheese-Making in Val Taleggio (Northern Italy)","authors":"C. Grasseni","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.51","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.51","url":null,"abstract":"The politics of scale is the main issue within and around debates on whether geographical indications are the best strategy to support local economies. Two PDO cheeses are made in Val Taleggio. While Taleggio PDO has outscaled the valley and its interests, Strachìtunt PDO was reinvented to be at scale for the valley’s producers. I explain the two-step transition in the producers’ communicative strategy, from a language of heritage cheese and its “prestige” to a multispecies language that stresses the importance of a “working landscape” as a value in itself, focusing in particular on the producers’ post-COVID-19 manifesto as “keepers of molds.” Guardianship emerges from it as a new form of authenticity that does not run in the strictures of terroir-discourse. The article thus spells out which role authenticity plays in the politics of scale and how it contributes to the small-scale producers’ dilemma of how to craft a future for themselves and their communities. I contextualize this vis-a-vis secondary sources that also stress the conceptual and political creativity of cheese-makers’ strategies to revitalize regional (dairy) economies. Food producers are experimenting with new ways of mobilizing heritage to claim guardianship of their trade, craft, and territory. A transnational producer discourse emerges through a redesign of food heritage, front-staging the ecological meaning of craft.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67154286","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.65
Victor Valle
{"title":"Toward a Poetics of Chile…in Another Mexico","authors":"Victor Valle","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.65","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.65","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67154367","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.65
Indira Arumugam
{"title":"Cooking Up a Distinctly Singaporean Tamil Cuisine","authors":"Indira Arumugam","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.65","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.65","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"35 2 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78024078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.108
Sadie Menicanin
{"title":"Review: Feasting and Fasting in Opera: From Renaissance Banquets to the Callas Diet, by Pierpaolo Polzonetti","authors":"Sadie Menicanin","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.108","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.108","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"100 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77161099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.28
Thiago Braga
This paper sheds light on the operative dynamics of Chinese Contemporary Tea Art, eschewing a formalist reading that equates it with the gongfu ceremony, taking as a jumping-off point instead the Chinese terms that are usually translated into Tea Art: chayi and chadao. I analyze Tea Art through analytics that are raised by its own practitioners, namely the interrelated yet irreducible logics of yi and dao. First, I analyze the yi logic of chayi, demonstrating how the aesthetic register of Tea Art evokes broader, historically rooted ideas about the role of aesthetics as a vector for the moral transformation of society. Second, I turn to the dao logic of chadao, where I illustrate the ways in which Tea Art practice incorporates popular discourses on the interconnectedness of humans and their environment through interpretations of the dao and its adjacent concepts, transforming it into a modality of self-work that reconfigures one’s relationship to self, other, and nature. Third, I place the rise of Tea Art in a sociocultural context to demonstrate that it is neither the revival of an ancient Chinese tradition nor a purely invented tradition but rather a highly complex contemporary phenomenon built at a critical juncture of the Chinese modernization project where urbanites have increasingly pondered issues of spiritual and psychological well-being.
{"title":"Tea Art","authors":"Thiago Braga","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.28","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.2.28","url":null,"abstract":"This paper sheds light on the operative dynamics of Chinese Contemporary Tea Art, eschewing a formalist reading that equates it with the gongfu ceremony, taking as a jumping-off point instead the Chinese terms that are usually translated into Tea Art: chayi and chadao. I analyze Tea Art through analytics that are raised by its own practitioners, namely the interrelated yet irreducible logics of yi and dao. First, I analyze the yi logic of chayi, demonstrating how the aesthetic register of Tea Art evokes broader, historically rooted ideas about the role of aesthetics as a vector for the moral transformation of society. Second, I turn to the dao logic of chadao, where I illustrate the ways in which Tea Art practice incorporates popular discourses on the interconnectedness of humans and their environment through interpretations of the dao and its adjacent concepts, transforming it into a modality of self-work that reconfigures one’s relationship to self, other, and nature. Third, I place the rise of Tea Art in a sociocultural context to demonstrate that it is neither the revival of an ancient Chinese tradition nor a purely invented tradition but rather a highly complex contemporary phenomenon built at a critical juncture of the Chinese modernization project where urbanites have increasingly pondered issues of spiritual and psychological well-being.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"7 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78883089","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.116
A. Alkon
{"title":"Review: Tainted Tap: Flint’s Journey from Crisis to Recovery, by Katrinell M. Davis","authors":"A. Alkon","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.116","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.116","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153503","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Theorizing Authenticity","authors":"L. Crossland-Marr, E. Krause","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2023.23.1.5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67154736","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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