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The concept of wave base: fact and fiction 波基概念:事实与虚构
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-08-27 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00776-3
B. W. Flemming

This study focusses on the processes that control the morphodynamics of the seabed in the shoaling wave domain, widely known as the shoreface. Shoreface morphodynamics is not only controlled by the local wave climate but also by associated wave- and wind-driven currents, the grain-size, and antecedent geomorphology. This paper provides basic information on sedimentological action of monochromatic waves at the seabed in the shoaling zone to the non-specialist without him-/herself having to solve the complex equations before arriving at workable solutions. It is emphasized that the traditional oceanographically defined wave base (0.5L0) is not relevant in a geological/sedimentological context and should be replaced by a grain-size dependent effective wave base (EWB). Furthermore, open ocean swell-dominated shorefaces have to be distinguished from those of marginal seas dominated by local wind-generated waves. For convenience, a collection of tables and diagrams are provided in the electronic supplementary material (ESM) attached to this paper. They highlight the depths of effective wave bases for a range of grain sizes, wave heights and wave periods between 2 and 16 s.

这项研究的重点是控制浅滩波浪域(即广为人知的海岸面)海床形态动力学的过程。岸面形态动力学不仅受当地波浪气候的控制,还受相关的波流和风流、颗粒大小和先行地貌的控制。本文为非专业人员提供了有关单色波在滩涂区海底沉积作用的基本信息,使其无需亲自求解复杂方程,即可得出可行的解决方案。需要强调的是,传统海洋学定义的波基(0.5L0)与地质/沉积背景无关,应由粒度相关的有效波基(EWB)取代。此外,必须将开阔海域以涌浪为主的海岸面与边缘海以当地风力产生的波浪为主的海岸面区分开来。为方便起见,本文所附的电子补充材料(ESM)中提供了一系列表格和图表。这些表格和图表突出显示了一系列粒径、波高和波长在 2 到 16 秒之间的有效波基深度。
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引用次数: 0
Morphotectonic characteristics of the Andaman volcanic arc and its adjoining regions, Andaman Sea 安达曼火山弧及其毗邻地区的形态构造特征,安达曼海
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-08-01 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00775-4
K. K. Aswini, K. A. Kamesh Raju, C. M. Bijesh, V. Yatheesh, N. F. K. Zeba, Pawan Dewangan

The oblique subduction of the Indian Plate beneath the Sunda Plate has resulted in the formation of diverse morphotectonic structures and major changes to the seafloor topography in the Andaman Sea, northeastern Indian Ocean. Inner volcanic arc, sliver fault system, narrow oceanic basins and backarc basins are the principal morphotectonic elements that influenced the tectonic setting and geodynamics of the Andaman backarc region. The volcanoes and fault systems in Myanmar and Sumatra are well studied, but we know relatively less about the morphotectonics of the submarine volcanoes and sliver fault networks in the Andaman Sea, that connect the volcanoes and fault systems in Myanmar and Sumatra. In the present study, we compiled the all-available high resolution bathymetry data which covers an area of approximately 140,000 km2 in the Andaman backarc region and provided a detailed morphotectonic analysis of each of the tectonic elements. The data show 33 submarine volcanoes of varying dimension in the Andaman Sea, that stretches from the dormant Narcondam volcano to the north of Sumatra Island. In addition, the major fault systems such as Great Sumatra Fault, West Andaman Fault and Andaman Nicobar Fault that starts from northern Sumatra and ends with Andaman Backarc Spreading Centre delineated from the high-resolution bathymetry data are analysed. Northward extension of the Great Sumatra Fault furcates into several branches, which produce narrow oceanic basins. The existence of submarine volcanoes situated in the middle of these basins indicate that the Andaman-Nicobar-Sumatra volcanic arc traverses through this narrow basinal area. The occurrence of well-developed cratered volcanoes, frequent earthquake swarms and gas emanations through the flanks of the cratered seamount suggest that the off Nicobar region between 6ºN to 8ºN is the most active part of the volcanic arc during the recent past.

印度板块在巽他板块下方的斜向俯冲导致了印度洋东北部安达曼海多种形态构造的形成和海底地形的重大变化。内火山弧、狭长断层系统、狭长洋盆和弧后盆地是影响安达曼弧后地区构造环境和地球动力学的主要形态构造要素。我们对缅甸和苏门答腊岛的火山和断层系统进行了深入研究,但对连接缅甸和苏门答腊岛火山和断层系统的安达曼海海底火山和弧形断层网的形态构造却知之甚少。在本研究中,我们汇编了所有可用的高分辨率水深测量数据,这些数据覆盖了安达曼弧后地区约 14 万平方公里的区域,并对每个构造要素进行了详细的形态构造分析。数据显示,安达曼海有 33 座大小不一的海底火山,从休眠的纳孔达姆火山一直延伸到苏门答腊岛北部。此外,还分析了从苏门答腊岛北部到安达曼弧后扩张中心的主要断层系统,如大苏门答腊断层、西安达曼断层和安达曼-尼科巴断层。苏门答腊大断层向北延伸,形成若干分支,形成狭窄的海洋盆地。位于这些盆地中间的海底火山的存在表明,安达曼-尼科巴-苏门答腊火山弧横穿了这一狭窄的盆地区域。发育良好的陨石坑火山、频繁的地震群和陨石坑海山侧面的气体喷发表明,北纬 6 度至 8 度之间的尼科巴岛附近地区是火山弧近期最活跃的地区。
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引用次数: 0
Shoreline change and coastal erosion: an analysis of long-term change and adaptation strategies in coastal Ghana 海岸线变化和海岸侵蚀:对加纳沿海长期变化和适应战略的分析
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-07-11 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00774-5
Johnson Ankrah

This study analysed long-term shoreline change, the influence of erosion, and adaptation strategies in coastal Ghana. The change between 1972 and 2021 was analysed using Landsat satellite images and the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS v.5.0), and adaptation strategies were revealed through field observations. The End Point Rate (EPR), Linear Regression Rate (LRR), and Weighted Linear Regression (WLR) were used to estimate the rate of change, whereas the Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) and Shoreline Change Envelope (SCE) were used to calculate the distances of change. The coefficient of shoreline armouring (K) index was used to evaluate the grade of artificial or human interventions on the coast. The erosion rates for the EPR (− 107.6 m/year, or 95.0%) and LRR (− 75.7 m/year, or 99.3%) were higher than the accretion rates of (28.5 m/year, or 5.0%) and (33.6 m/year, or 0.7%), respectively. The NSM recorded maximum erosion (− 14,080 to − 10,840 m) and accretion (1107 to 2135 m) with an average distance of − 4943.1 m. The SCE estimated a maximum (14,080.5 m) and minimum (813.8 m) distances with an average distance change of 5557.9 m. The central coast experienced erosion at average rates of − 119.0 m/yr, − 89.6 m/yr, and − 94.0 m/yr, according to EPR, LRR, and WLR statistics. The eastern coast observed lower erosion rates than the central coast, with rates of − 75.3 m/yr, − 53.2 m/yr, and − 41.9 m/yr for the EPR, LRR, and WLR statistics, respectively. Since 1972, there has been a significant increase in artificial coastal structures on Ghana's central and eastern coasts. The central coast has reached a maximal level of shoreline armouring index, while the eastern coast has reached a minimal level. Although hard protective measures have been implemented on most parts of the coast for adaptation, improved policy initiatives on soft and nature-based protection measures are encouraged based on their favourable ecological impact and economic effectiveness.

本研究分析了加纳沿海地区海岸线的长期变化、侵蚀的影响以及适应策略。利用 Landsat 卫星图像和数字海岸线分析系统 (DSAS v.5.0) 分析了 1972 年至 2021 年期间的变化,并通过实地观测揭示了适应策略。采用终点率(EPR)、线性回归率(LRR)和加权线性回归率(WLR)估算变化率,采用净海岸线移动(NSM)和海岸线变化包络线(SCE)计算变化距离。海岸线铠装系数(K)指数用于评估海岸的人工或人为干预等级。EPR 的侵蚀率(- 107.6 米/年,或 95.0%)和 LRR 的侵蚀率(- 75.7 米/年,或 99.3%)分别高于增生率(28.5 米/年,或 5.0%)和(33.6 米/年,或 0.7%)。根据 EPR、LRR 和 WLR 统计,中部沿海的侵蚀率平均为 -119.0米/年、-89.6 米/年和 -94.0米/年。东部海岸的侵蚀率低于中部海岸,根据 EPR、LRR 和 WLR 统计,侵蚀率分别为-75.3 米/年、-53.2 米/年和-41.9 米/年。自 1972 年以来,加纳中部和东部海岸的人工海岸结构显著增加。中部海岸的海岸线铠装指数已达到最高水平,而东部海岸已达到最低水平。虽然在海岸的大部分地区采取了硬性保护措施以适应变化,但由于软性保护措施和基于自然的保护措施具有有利的生态影响和经济效益,因此鼓励改进这些措施的政策举措。
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引用次数: 0
Seismic stratigraphy of the Bandırma Bay since sea-level lowstand, Sea of Marmara, Türkiye 图尔基耶马尔马拉海 Bandırma 海湾海平面低位以来的地震地层学
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-06-17 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00773-6
Denizhan Vardar, Hande Aykurt Vardar

Near coasts and shelves are strongly affected by the hydrodynamic forces and involves important information about the long term and permanent changes. Understanding the past dynamic transformations of shelves and near coasts can shed the future projections about effects of climate changes. High-resolution seismic and multibeam bathymetry data shed light on sedimentation since the last sea level lowstand in the Bandırma Bay, southern shelf area of the Marmara Sea. Five different seismic units were identified from the bottom upward based on seismic stratigraphic analysis, which are bounded by the reflection surfaces. Differential hydrological and depositional processes in the bay are shown by the definition and mapping of these unique seismic units and surfaces in the shallow sedimentary record: The water level in the basin crossed the threshold between the two basins, and advancing flows began from the north to the western basin. The basin continued to fill with water, and progressive depositions were interrupted with the onlaps of U3–4. The water level rose above the threshold in both basins, resulting in the two lakes becoming a single lake and the creation of marine conditions. The initial deposition in the eastern basin was fluvial, deposited in the form of regressive systems tracts. The overall morphology and stratigraphic settings observed in Bandırma Bay have nearly the same characteristics as those observed in the Sea of Marmara (like northern and western Marmara shelf, Gemlik Bay, Büyükçekmece Bay etc.) oceanography, implying that similar hydrodynamic conditions and erosional and depositional processes are controlled mainly by sea level changes controlled by climate changes related to morphological properties.

近岸和陆架受到水动力的强烈影响,涉及长期和永久变化的重要信息。了解陆架和近岸过去的动态变化,可以预测未来气候变化的影响。高分辨率地震和多波束测深数据揭示了马尔马拉海南部陆架区 Bandırma 海湾自上次海平面下降以来的沉积情况。根据地震地层分析,从底部向上确定了五个不同的地震单元,这些单元以反射面为界。浅层沉积记录中这些独特地震单元和地震面的定义和绘图显示了海湾中不同的水文和沉积过程:盆地的水位越过了两个盆地之间的临界点,水流开始从北部向西部盆地推进。盆地继续充水,U3-4 的叠加中断了渐进沉积。两个盆地的水位都上升到临界点以上,导致两个湖泊变成一个湖泊,并形成海洋条件。东部盆地最初的沉积为河流沉积,沉积形式为回归系地层。在班德尔马湾观察到的整体形态和地层设置与在马尔马拉海(如马尔马拉大陆架北部和西部、盖姆利克湾、比尤克切克梅斯湾等)观察到的海洋学特征几乎相同,这意味着类似的水动力条件以及侵蚀和沉积过程主要受控于与形态特征相关的气候变化所控制的海平面变化。
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引用次数: 0
Shell size variation of pteropod Heliconoides inflatus: inferences on Indian Ocean carbonate chemistry during late Quaternary 翼足目 Heliconoides inflatus 贝壳尺寸变化:第四纪晚期印度洋碳酸盐化学推论
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-05-27 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00772-7
E. Sreevidya, M. B. L. Mascarenhas-Pereira, B. Nagender Nath, A. V. Sijinkumar, Pankaj Kumar

The current study is an effort to understand the relationship between the average shell size and Limacina Dissolution Index (LDX) of pteropod species, Heliconoides inflatus as a metric for shell calcification using several cores, ranging in age from recent to 1.2 Myr. The current study is based on the variability of H. inflatus average shell size, LDX, and fragmentation ratio (FR) and their correlation among different spatial and temporal sediment core records from the Northern Indian Ocean. Results suggest that in the cores collected above the Aragonite lysocline (Aly) and the Aragonite Compensation Depth (ACD) (SPC 05, 06, 09, 11, 12, 13, 14, and NGHP-17), the average shell size values exhibited larger shells during the stadials/glacial periods (Little Ice Age (LIA), Marine Isotope Stages (MIS) 3, 6, 10 − 9 transition etc.) which corresponds to lower LDX values. However, the cores beyond the ACD (SK168, AAS11, and RVS2) show larger shell size values during the warm interstadials (e.g., Bølling–Allerød) with higher FR. The variability in shell size and LDX shows an indication of the carbonate ion saturation in the water column over glacial/interglacial time scales and the impact of changing atmospheric CO2 in the atmosphere. However, the factors adding to the carbonate ion saturation within the water column could be varied physiographically. The calcification proxy complements the dissolution proxies and reveals that the most intense aragonite dissolution occurred during the Holocene and interstadials/interglacials.

目前的研究试图了解翼足目物种Heliconoides inflatus的平均贝壳大小与Limacina溶解指数(LDX)之间的关系,并利用年代从最近到1.2 Myr的多个岩心作为贝壳钙化的度量指标。目前的研究基于北印度洋翼足目 H. inflatus 平均贝壳尺寸、LDX 和碎裂率(FR)的变化及其在不同时空沉积岩芯记录之间的相关性。结果表明,在文石溶解线(Aly)和文石补偿深度(ACD)以上采集的岩芯(SPC 05、06、09、11、12、13、14 和 NGHP-17)中,平均贝壳尺寸值在中冰期/冰川期(小冰期、海洋同位素阶段(MIS)3、6、10-9 过渡期等)表现为较大,这与较低的 LDX 值相对应。然而,ACD 以外的岩心(SK168、AAS11 和 RVS2)在暖间期(如 Bølling-Allerød 期)显示出较大的贝壳尺寸值,且 FR 值较高。贝壳大小和 LDX 的变化表明,在冰期/间冰期时间尺度上,水体中的碳酸根离子饱和度以及大气中二氧化碳变化的影响。不过,增加水体中碳酸根离子饱和度的因素可能因地理环境而异。钙化代用指标与溶解代用指标相辅相成,揭示了在全新世和间冰期/冰期文石溶解最为剧烈。
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引用次数: 0
Is the coastal vulnerability index a suitable index? Review and proposal of alternative indices for coastal vulnerability to sea level rise 沿岸脆弱性指数是合适的指数吗?审查并提出沿海地区易受海平面上升影响的替代指数
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-05-11 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00770-9
Javier Alcántara-Carrió, Luz Marleny García Echavarría, Alfredo Jaramillo-Vélez

The Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) has been widely applied around the world. This study provides a review of the suitability of the variables and mathematical expression of the CVI and proposes a new Integrated Coastal Vulnerability Index (ICVI), comparing both indices for 4 study areas in the southern Caribbean. The ICVI assesses vulnerability to sea level rise by integrating the Environmental Vulnerability Index (EVI) and the Socioeconomic Vulnerability Index (SVI). Regarding the variables that constitute the indices, it is noted that the CVI includes vulnerability and hazard variables and therefore it should be considered a risk index rather than a vulnerability index. The EVI includes geomorphological vulnerability variables, like the CVI, but also ecological ones. Regarding the mathematical expression, the use of the arithmetic mean versus the formula proposed for the CVI is discussed based on the comparison of the results obtained for EVI and SVI in the 4 study areas. In addition, the use of absolute (between 0 and 1) or relative (based on percentiles) limits in these indices, and the use of weights or not, are also discussed. The conclusion is that the use of relative thresholds necessarily forces the identification of very low to very high vulnerability zones for any study, and the use of weights on the variables increases the subjectivity of the assessment, all of which impedes the comparability of the index at a global level. Therefore, the ICVI, with the formula based on the arithmetic mean, with absolute limits between 0 and 1 and without variable weightings, is preferable to the CVI for use at the global level.

海岸脆弱性指数(CVI)已在世界各地广泛应用。本研究对 CVI 的变量和数学表达的适用性进行了审查,并提出了新的综合沿海脆弱性指数 (ICVI),对加勒比海南部 4 个研究地区的这两个指数进行了比较。综合沿海脆弱性指数通过整合环境脆弱性指数(EVI)和社会经济脆弱性指数(SVI)来评估面对海平面上升的脆弱性。关于构成这些指数的变量,需要指出的是,CVI 包括脆弱性和灾害变量,因此应将其视为风险指数而非脆弱性指数。生态脆弱性指数(EVI)与地貌脆弱性指数(CVI)一样,包括地貌脆弱性变量和生态脆弱性变量。在数学表达方面,根据对 4 个研究区域的 EVI 和 SVI 所获结果的比较,讨论了算术平均值与 CVI 拟议公式的使用问题。此外,还讨论了在这些指数中使用绝对限值(介于 0 和 1 之间)还是相对限值(基于百分位数),以及是否使用权重。结论是,在任何研究中,使用相对阈值必然会迫使确定非常低到非常高的脆弱性区,而对变量使用加权则会增加评估的主观性,所有这些都妨碍了指数在全球范围内的可比性。因此,在全球范围内使用基于算术平均值公式的国际脆弱程度指数(ICVI),其绝对限值介于 0 和 1 之间,且不使用变量加权,要优于综合脆弱程度指数(CVI)。
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引用次数: 0
The Plata plume water penetration into the southwestern Atlantic shelf during the Holocene 全新世期间普拉塔羽流海水渗入西南大西洋大陆架的情况
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-04-16 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00767-4
Gabrielle Dias Bonifatto, Samara Cazzoli y Goya, Edilson de Oliveira Faria, Irys Martins Rodrigues Ventura, Mascimiliano de los Santos Maly, Renata Hanae Nagai, Michel Michaelovitch de Mahiques

On the southeastern South American shelf, the discharge of the Río de la Plata and those from the Uruguayan and southern Brazilian lagoons forms a low-salinity water mass named Plata Plume Water (PPW). The northward penetration of this water mass into the SW Atlantic presents a clear seasonal regime, determined more by the intensity of the southerly winds than by river discharge. In this sense, understanding the plume’s variation is a valuable tool for recognizing Holocene wind dynamics in the Southwest Atlantic. This study aims to identify the PPW’s onset and intensity variations on the southeastern South American shelf by analyzing the grain-size characteristics of the Holocene deposits of the southern Brazilian shelf. End-member modeling was used to recognize the sediment population representing the PPW input on the southeastern South American shelf. The results led us to recognize a silty population whose characteristic is coherent with the PPW input. Moreover, this grain size population presents a behavior that agrees with other independent proxies from other sediment cores in the same area, especially after ca. 2,800 cal BP, concurrent with establishing the late Holocene climatic and oceanographic conditions. Finally, we could recognize a ca. 300 years periodicity, similar to other works in the southern hemisphere, indicating that external (solar) forcing played an important role in the observed century-scale climate variability during the Holocene of the Southwest Atlantic.

在南美洲东南部大陆架上,拉普拉塔河以及乌拉圭和巴西南部泻湖的排水量形成了一个低盐度水团,名为 "普拉塔羽流水"(PPW)。该水团向北渗透到西南大西洋的过程具有明显的季节性,更多地由南风的强度而不是河流的排水量决定。从这个意义上说,了解羽流的变化是认识西南大西洋全新世风动力学的重要工具。本研究旨在通过分析巴西南部大陆架全新世沉积物的粒度特征,确定 PPW 在南美洲东南部大陆架的起始时间和强度变化。末端成员建模被用来识别代表南美洲东南部陆架 PPW 输入的沉积物群。结果表明,淤泥群的特征与 PPW 输入一致。此外,该粒度群的表现与同一地区其他沉积岩芯的其他独立代用指标一致,尤其是在约公元前 2800 年之后,与公元前 2000 年之后的情况一致。尤其是在大约公元前 2,800 年之后,这与全新世晚期的气候和海洋条件相吻合。最后,我们可以发现约 300 年的周期性,这与南半球的其他研究结果类似,表明外部(太阳)强迫在西南大西洋全新世期间观测到的世纪尺度气候变异中发挥了重要作用。
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引用次数: 0
Cusps development after cyclone (Vardah) along the east coast of India: data and theories 印度东海岸飓风(瓦尔达)后的岩屑发展:数据与理论
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-04-12 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00766-5
Umakanta Pradhan, Uma Sankar Panda, Pravakar Mishra, Subrat Naik, Mehmuna Begum, M. V. Ramana Murthy

Cusp formation and related processes are well-studied all over the world, but research along the Indian coast is scanty and fragmentary. This paper provides a detailed description of the geomorphology, characteristics, and development of a series of cusps after the cyclone “Vardah” crossed along the east coast of India on 12th December 2016. Observations of instantaneous shoreline, cusp dimension, and related processes such as wind, wave, littoral environmental observation (LEO), sediment texture, and total suspended sediment load in the surf zone were obtained for three discrete observations spanning 20 days, revealing a clear insight into the post cyclonic beach processes and the cusp development. The cusp development shows an accretionary environment (12 m in 20 days) and sediment characteristics show to coincide with cusp evolution as coarser sediment at horns than the bays. After the storms, the mean grain size decreases and the sorting value increases along the coast. The spacing of observed cusps ranged from 15 to 40 m with a dominant spacing of 20–30 m (80%) while cusp depths are mostly 4–6 m (55%) and range from 2 to 8 m. The cusps are formed under the influence of low wave energy, anticipated from numerical modeling study; wave height (Hs) is 0.6 m, wave period (Ts) is 6 s, and wave direction is 90 deg. The present study reveals that cusp formation along this region is a better fit with self-organization theory.

世界各地都对海蚀形成及相关过程进行了深入研究,但印度沿海地区的研究却很少且零散。本文详细描述了 2016 年 12 月 12 日 "瓦尔达 "气旋穿越印度东海岸后一系列岩尖的地貌、特征和发展。对瞬时海岸线、岩尖尺寸以及相关过程(如风、波浪、沿岸环境观测(LEO)、沉积物质地和冲浪区总悬浮沉积物负荷)的观测是通过三次跨度为 20 天的离散观测获得的,揭示了气旋后海滩过程和岩尖发展的清晰视角。滩尖的发展显示出一种增生环境(20 天内增生 12 米),沉积物特征也显示出与滩尖的演变相吻合,滩角的沉积物比海湾更粗。暴风雨过后,沿岸的平均粒度减小,分选值增加。观测到的尖角间距从 15 米到 40 米不等,主要间距为 20-30 米(80%),尖角深度大多为 4-6 米(55%),范围在 2-8 米之间。本研究表明,该区域的尖顶形成更符合自组织理论。
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引用次数: 0
Impacts of anthropogenic structures in long- and short-term shoreline evolution of Santa Marta Bay (Colombian Caribbean) 人为结构对圣玛尔塔湾(哥伦比亚加勒比海)海岸线长期和短期演变的影响
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-04-09 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00768-3
Luana Carla Portz, Diego Villate-Daza, Hernando José Bolívar-Anillo, Ángela Fontán-Bouzas, Javier Alcántara-Carrió, Rogerio Portantiolo Manzolli

Interaction of Anthropic interventions (rigid structures) with coasts is an essential aspect for understanding their geomorphic evolution and incorporating these data into adequate coastal management. This study analyses the short and long-term behavior (1985 to 2019) of shoreline at Santa Marta Bay (Caribbean - Colombia) and their relationship with coastal protection structures. The shoreline variations were analyzed through aerial photographs and satellite images using DSAS tools. The short-term assessment showed initial intense 1985–1991 erosion, with an average retreat speed rate of − 1.6 m·y− 1. It changed gradually since 2003, due to the construction of rigid structures and beach nourishment, decreasing shoreline retreat and even a progradation rate of 0.2 m·y− 1 was observed. The 2009–2019 period, despite recording a positive average value, exhibited a high percentage of erosion profiles. Therefore, in a decadal or long-term analysis (1985–2019), despite engineering works present positive results in the short term, new interventions are required. The coastal erosion is not uniform along the shoreline, because the area is a closed bay with small sediment inputs, the variations in erosion and accretion rates change with human intervention and the installation of new structures. Therefore, quantifying the scale and rate of shoreline changes and correlating them with anthropogenic structures is an essential step in assessing shoreline vulnerability.

人类干预措施(刚性结构)与海岸的相互作用是了解海岸地貌演变并将这些数据纳入适 当海岸管理的一个重要方面。本研究分析了圣玛尔塔湾(哥伦比亚加勒比海)海岸线的短期和长期变化(1985 年至 2019 年)及其与海岸保护结构的关系。利用 DSAS 工具,通过航拍照片和卫星图像分析了海岸线的变化。短期评估显示,1985-1991 年间海岸线受到严重侵蚀,平均后退速度为-1.6 米-年-1。自 2003 年以来,由于修建了坚固的结构和进行了海滩整治,海岸线后退速度逐渐减慢,甚至出现了 0.2 m-y- 1 的后退速度。2009-2019 年期间,尽管平均值为正值,但侵蚀剖面所占比例较高。因此,在十年或长期分析(1985-2019 年)中,尽管工程在短期内取得了积极成果,但仍需采取新的干预措施。由于该地区是一个封闭的海湾,沉积物输入量较小,海岸侵蚀沿线并不均匀,侵 蚀和沉积速率的变化随着人为干预和新结构的安装而变化。因此,量化海岸线变化的规模和速度,并将其与人为结构联系起来,是评估海岸线脆弱性的重要步骤。
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引用次数: 0
Submerged reef features in Apo and Tubbataha Reefs, Philippines, revealed paleo sea-level history during the last deglaciation 菲律宾阿波礁和图巴塔哈礁的水下礁石特征揭示了上一次冰期的古海平面历史
IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q3 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2024-02-27 DOI: 10.1007/s00367-024-00764-7

Abstract

The morphology of coral reefs provides an effective benchmark of past sea levels because of their limited vertical range of formation and good geologic preservation. In this study, we analyze the seafloor morphology around two atolls in the Philippines: Tubbataha Reef, in Palawan, and Apo Reef, in Occidental Mindoro. High-resolution multibeam bathymetry to a depth of 200 m reveals seafloor features including reef ridges and staircase-like terraces and scarps. Depth profiles across the reefs show terraces formed within six and seven depth ranges in Tubbataha Reef and in Apo Reef, respectively. These were further observed through a remotely operated vehicle. The terraces and scarps are interpreted as backstepping reefs that were drowned during an overall rise in sea level from the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM). Terraces are used as indicators of paleo sea level and the separation between terraces as the magnitude of sea-level rises coeval with meltwater pulse events during the last deglaciation. The pattern for both Apo and Tubbataha reefs indicates subsidence, consistent with the absence of Holocene emergent features and their atoll morphologies. Subsidence of up to 17 m since the LGM in Apo Reef is mainly attributed to the downbowing of the crust toward Manila Trench. In Tubbataha Reef, subsidence of up to 14 m is attributed to the continuous cooling of the volcanic crust underlying the atoll. These can be used to fill gaps in the tectonic history of the study sites from the last deglaciation.

摘要 珊瑚礁的形态是过去海平面的有效基准,因为珊瑚礁形成的垂直范围有限,而且地质保存良好。在这项研究中,我们分析了菲律宾两个环礁周围的海底形态:巴拉望的图巴塔哈礁和西民都洛的阿波礁。深度为 200 米的高分辨率多波束测深显示了海底特征,包括礁脊、阶梯状阶地和疤痕。整个珊瑚礁的深度剖面图显示,图巴塔哈珊瑚礁和阿波珊瑚礁分别在六个和七个深度范围内形成了阶地。通过遥控潜水器进一步观察了这些情况。这些阶地和疤痕被解释为在末次冰川极盛时期(LGM)海平面全面上升过程中被淹没的后退礁石。阶地是古海平面的指标,阶地之间的分隔则是海平面上升的幅度,与末次冰期融水脉冲事件同时发生。阿波礁和图巴塔哈礁的模式都表明了海平面下沉,这与全新世新生地貌的缺失及其环礁形态一致。阿波礁自全新世以来下沉达 17 米,主要原因是地壳向马尼拉海沟下沉。在图巴塔哈礁,高达 14 米的下沉是由于环礁下的火山地壳持续冷却造成的。这些数据可用于填补研究地点上一次脱冰期构造历史的空白。
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Geo-Marine Letters
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