Rizos Evangelos Bikiaris, Magdalena Paczkowska-Walendowska, Ioanna Koumentakou, Argyri Niti, Judyta Cielecka-Piontek, George Z. Kyzas
Centella asiatica extract (CAE) and Marigold extract (ME) have been renowned for centuries in traditional medicine, particularly in Asia, for their wound-healing, anti-inflammatory and skin-regenerative properties. This study presents the formulation and comprehensive evaluation of serums enhanced with these extracts, aiming to harness their bioactive properties for skin health. Serums were selected over creams due to their lightweight, water-based nature, which ensures faster absorption and enhanced skin penetration of active ingredients. The serums, developed in varying concentrations (0.2%, 0.5% and 1.0%), were assessed for physicochemical properties, stability, bioactivity and skin barrier enhancement. Stability tests confirmed the serums' robustness, maintaining consistent pH (5.0–6.5), viscosity and organoleptic properties over 60 days. The MTT assay revealed that both extracts were non-cytotoxic, maintaining cell viability above 100%, with formulations containing CAE, demonstrating a concentration-dependent proliferative effect, reaching nearly 120%. Antibacterial evaluation using the agar well diffusion assay showed that both extracts exhibited considerable activity, with CAE achieving greater inhibition zones, particularly against S. aureus. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase activities confirmed the strong bioactive potential of both extracts in combating oxidative stress, reducing inflammation, and regulating pigmentation. Skin barrier and permeability studies demonstrated the serums' ability to improve barrier integrity and facilitate active compound delivery. These findings demonstrate the potential of Centella asiatica and Marigold extracts for multifunctional skincare formulations, combining regeneration, hydration, antioxidant and antibacterial benefits.
{"title":"Bioactivity and physicochemical characterization of Centella asiatica and Marigold extract serums: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and skin barrier function insights","authors":"Rizos Evangelos Bikiaris, Magdalena Paczkowska-Walendowska, Ioanna Koumentakou, Argyri Niti, Judyta Cielecka-Piontek, George Z. Kyzas","doi":"10.1111/ics.70006","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70006","url":null,"abstract":"<p><i>Centella asiatica</i> extract (CAE) and Marigold extract (ME) have been renowned for centuries in traditional medicine, particularly in Asia, for their wound-healing, anti-inflammatory and skin-regenerative properties. This study presents the formulation and comprehensive evaluation of serums enhanced with these extracts, aiming to harness their bioactive properties for skin health. Serums were selected over creams due to their lightweight, water-based nature, which ensures faster absorption and enhanced skin penetration of active ingredients. The serums, developed in varying concentrations (0.2%, 0.5% and 1.0%), were assessed for physicochemical properties, stability, bioactivity and skin barrier enhancement. Stability tests confirmed the serums' robustness, maintaining consistent pH (5.0–6.5), viscosity and organoleptic properties over 60 days. The MTT assay revealed that both extracts were non-cytotoxic, maintaining cell viability above 100%, with formulations containing CAE, demonstrating a concentration-dependent proliferative effect, reaching nearly 120%. Antibacterial evaluation using the agar well diffusion assay showed that both extracts exhibited considerable activity, with CAE achieving greater inhibition zones, particularly against <i>S. aureus</i>. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase activities confirmed the strong bioactive potential of both extracts in combating oxidative stress, reducing inflammation, and regulating pigmentation. Skin barrier and permeability studies demonstrated the serums' ability to improve barrier integrity and facilitate active compound delivery. These findings demonstrate the potential of <i>Centella asiatica</i> and Marigold extracts for multifunctional skincare formulations, combining regeneration, hydration, antioxidant and antibacterial benefits.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1070-1084"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70006","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600331","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Khaled E. Abuelella, Saadalla Nady Gaid, Mahmoud Alaaeldin Khattab, Kareem O. Rashwan, Nermin M. Sheta
Sunscreens reduce the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by reflecting, absorbing or scattering photons. UVR comprises ultraviolet-B (UVB), which plays a major role in sunburn and the development of skin cancers, and ultraviolet-A (UVA), which contributes to photoaging and skin damage. The application of sunscreen is among the most effective approaches to mitigating UV-induced damage. As a topical photoprotective agent, it can be classified as either inorganic (physical blockers) or organic (chemical absorbers). Physical sunscreens are particularly beneficial for people who are hypersensitive to UVA and visible light, such as those who have photosensitising diseases. Chemical sunscreens that selectively absorb UVB and/or UVA, include cinnamates, benzophenones, benzimidazoles and dibenzalacetone (DBA). DBA is a synthetic compound with potent UV-absorbing properties, making it an important component in sunscreen formulations for effective skin protection. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of DBA, focusing on its physicochemical properties, conventional synthesis methods and structural characterization using UV–Visible absorption spectroscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC–MS) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. Furthermore, its potential applications in sunscreen formulations and other biological activities are critically investigated.
{"title":"Photoprotective efficacy of dibenzalacetone in sunscreen formulations: Physicochemical properties, synthesis, characterization, potential applications in sunscreen and biological activities","authors":"Khaled E. Abuelella, Saadalla Nady Gaid, Mahmoud Alaaeldin Khattab, Kareem O. Rashwan, Nermin M. Sheta","doi":"10.1111/ics.70002","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70002","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Sunscreens reduce the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by reflecting, absorbing or scattering photons. UVR comprises ultraviolet-B (UVB), which plays a major role in sunburn and the development of skin cancers, and ultraviolet-A (UVA), which contributes to photoaging and skin damage. The application of sunscreen is among the most effective approaches to mitigating UV-induced damage. As a topical photoprotective agent, it can be classified as either inorganic (physical blockers) or organic (chemical absorbers). Physical sunscreens are particularly beneficial for people who are hypersensitive to UVA and visible light, such as those who have photosensitising diseases. Chemical sunscreens that selectively absorb UVB and/or UVA, include cinnamates, benzophenones, benzimidazoles and dibenzalacetone (DBA). DBA is a synthetic compound with potent UV-absorbing properties, making it an important component in sunscreen formulations for effective skin protection. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of DBA, focusing on its physicochemical properties, conventional synthesis methods and structural characterization using UV–Visible absorption spectroscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC–MS) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. Furthermore, its potential applications in sunscreen formulations and other biological activities are critically investigated.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1125-1135"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70002","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600333","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Determination of the sunburn protection provided by a sunscreen product is required globally for sales of these products. Over the past 80 years, many aspects of determining the protection ‘factor’ have evolved and been modified, with varying levels of impact on the sunburn protection factor (SPF) value. In order to compare new non-invasive and in vitro methods against traditional SPF test protocols, a large, multi-center clinical trial was conducted to establish the level of equivalence of these new methods with the current codified testing standard ISO24444 ([1]: Cosmetics – sun protection methods – in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF), 2019). This report reports the variability found in the in vivo determination of SPF values.
Methods
Thirty-two products of varying levels of sunburn and UVA protection, in a variety of formulation vehicles and ultraviolet (UV) filter combinations and concentrations, were coded and sent to pre-qualified in vivo SPF testing laboratories. The products were divided into eight product groups (four products per product group). For each product group, samples were sent to four laboratories (across product groups, a total of 12 laboratories participated). Precision and trueness estimates were calculated separately for each product group. ‘Expected’ SPF values were not provided to the test laboratories. However, laboratories were informed as to whether the ‘true’ SPF was less than or greater than 25.
Results
Interlaboratory variability for samples was proportional to the SPF of the products, with high SPF products having higher variability. Intra-laboratory variability (repeatability) was much lower than the interlaboratory variability.
Conclusions
This study highlights the fact that the interlaboratory variability of SPF results is considerable and is likely greater than expected by the public and regulatory bodies.
{"title":"The variability of in vivo sunscreen sun protection factor values","authors":"Curtis Cole, Bertrand Colson, Steffen Uhlig","doi":"10.1111/ics.70000","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70000","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Determination of the sunburn protection provided by a sunscreen product is required globally for sales of these products. Over the past 80 years, many aspects of determining the protection ‘factor’ have evolved and been modified, with varying levels of impact on the sunburn protection factor (SPF) value. In order to compare new non-invasive and in vitro methods against traditional SPF test protocols, a large, multi-center clinical trial was conducted to establish the level of equivalence of these new methods with the current codified testing standard ISO24444 ([1]: Cosmetics – sun protection methods – in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF), 2019). This report reports the variability found in the in vivo determination of SPF values.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thirty-two products of varying levels of sunburn and UVA protection, in a variety of formulation vehicles and ultraviolet (UV) filter combinations and concentrations, were coded and sent to pre-qualified in vivo SPF testing laboratories. The products were divided into eight product groups (four products per product group). For each product group, samples were sent to four laboratories (across product groups, a total of 12 laboratories participated). Precision and trueness estimates were calculated separately for each product group. ‘Expected’ SPF values were not provided to the test laboratories. However, laboratories were informed as to whether the ‘true’ SPF was less than or greater than 25.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Interlaboratory variability for samples was proportional to the SPF of the products, with high SPF products having higher variability. Intra-laboratory variability (repeatability) was much lower than the interlaboratory variability.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study highlights the fact that the interlaboratory variability of SPF results is considerable and is likely greater than expected by the public and regulatory bodies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"25-36"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70000","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600334","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT) is an organic nanoparticulate UV filter for use in sunscreens. Thanks to its chemical structure and particulate properties, the effectiveness of TBPT is associated with both absorption and scattering processes. In our study, we evaluated how much of the UV protection of TBPT is linked to scattering, including forward and backward scattering.
Methods
We employed a two steps approach. At first, we reproduced an earlier experimental design based on transmittance measurements of an aqueous dispersion of TBPT in cuvettes using a UV/vis-spectrometer with and without integrating sphere. Since the dispersion of TBPT is intended to be used in a finished sunscreen product, in a second phase, the supplied TBPT dispersion was added to a formulation, which was applied on a substrate plate to mimic the real use scenario. In this experimental setup, the scattering contribution was evaluated using transmittance measurements with an integrating sphere, both with closed and with open backward window.
Results
The two approaches produced the same results for the experiments conducted in cuvettes and on plates. The percentage of scattering contribution is dependent on the wavelength, which is connected to the absorbance profile of TBPT. In the UVB range the efficacy of TBPT is primarily provided by absorption with little scattering. In the UVAI range (340–400 nm), where TBPT is not absorbing the protection is completely attributed to scattering. Also, the use concentration of TBPT was shown to impact the percentage of scattering. A decrease of the scattering effect is observed when the concentration of TBPT exceeds 3% (w). This can be attributed to the fact that in concentrated systems absorption becomes the main effect as the likelihood of scattered light hitting and being absorbed by another TBPT molecule increases due to the closer proximity of the molecules.
Conclusion
This method can be used in the future to assess the scattering contribution of other particulate organic or inorganic UV filters or cosmetics particulate ingredients added in cosmetic formulations.
{"title":"Scattering as part of the protection afforded by nanoparticulate filters – An example with tris-biphenyl triazine","authors":"Myriam Sohn, Axelle Staudt, Katja Quass, Bernd Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.70001","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70001","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT) is an organic nanoparticulate UV filter for use in sunscreens. Thanks to its chemical structure and particulate properties, the effectiveness of TBPT is associated with both absorption and scattering processes. In our study, we evaluated how much of the UV protection of TBPT is linked to scattering, including forward and backward scattering.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We employed a two steps approach. At first, we reproduced an earlier experimental design based on transmittance measurements of an aqueous dispersion of TBPT in cuvettes using a UV/vis-spectrometer with and without integrating sphere. Since the dispersion of TBPT is intended to be used in a finished sunscreen product, in a second phase, the supplied TBPT dispersion was added to a formulation, which was applied on a substrate plate to mimic the real use scenario. In this experimental setup, the scattering contribution was evaluated using transmittance measurements with an integrating sphere, both with closed and with open backward window.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The two approaches produced the same results for the experiments conducted in cuvettes and on plates. The percentage of scattering contribution is dependent on the wavelength, which is connected to the absorbance profile of TBPT. In the UVB range the efficacy of TBPT is primarily provided by absorption with little scattering. In the UVAI range (340–400 nm), where TBPT is not absorbing the protection is completely attributed to scattering. Also, the use concentration of TBPT was shown to impact the percentage of scattering. A decrease of the scattering effect is observed when the concentration of TBPT exceeds 3% (w). This can be attributed to the fact that in concentrated systems absorption becomes the main effect as the likelihood of scattered light hitting and being absorbed by another TBPT molecule increases due to the closer proximity of the molecules.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This method can be used in the future to assess the scattering contribution of other particulate organic or inorganic UV filters or cosmetics particulate ingredients added in cosmetic formulations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1043-1055"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144608292","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Dezeure Julie, Pereira-Doel Pablo, Font Xavier, Morizet David
Objective
Environmental life cycle assessment of hair care products shows that the highest environmental impact is associated with the use phase, rather than conception, production, packaging, distribution or disposal of the products themselves. To measure the water consumed in the use phase, an innovative and cost-effective methodology was developed and tested to measure the water consumed to rinse off hair care products (rinsability).
Methods
Over 4 months, we tested the rinsability of 10 shampoos and 10 hair conditioners applied to 148 females, split between six hair characteristics: length, volume, dryness, thickness, curliness and damage. The volunteers were received in a hair salon on 20 different occasions for about 30 min each time. A team of hairdressers was specifically trained to detect two indicators of when a product is rinsed: a visual disappearance of the product and a clean touch. The volunteers were asked to have their hair washed at home 48 h before their arrival, using a standardized shampoo to control for sebum apparition.
Results
According to this test, on average, 7.1 L of water are needed to rinse a shampoo and 6.3 L to rinse a hair conditioner. However, there are significant differences depending on hair types: long and abundant hair requires more water to rinse shampoos and conditioners, whereas hair thickness, curliness, dryness and damage do not significantly affect the water required.
Conclusion
We suggest that data on product rinsability are essential when considering the water footprint for shampoos and hair conditioners. This method could be adopted for industry-wide experimentation to assess the water footprint of products and set reduction targets.
{"title":"Understanding the water consumption associated with the use of hair care products: The impact of six hair characteristics on rinsing shampoos and conditioners","authors":"Dezeure Julie, Pereira-Doel Pablo, Font Xavier, Morizet David","doi":"10.1111/ics.13082","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13082","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Environmental life cycle assessment of hair care products shows that the highest environmental impact is associated with the use phase, rather than conception, production, packaging, distribution or disposal of the products themselves. To measure the water consumed in the use phase, an innovative and cost-effective methodology was developed and tested to measure the water consumed to rinse off hair care products (rinsability).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Over 4 months, we tested the rinsability of 10 shampoos and 10 hair conditioners applied to 148 females, split between six hair characteristics: length, volume, dryness, thickness, curliness and damage. The volunteers were received in a hair salon on 20 different occasions for about 30 min each time. A team of hairdressers was specifically trained to detect two indicators of when a product is rinsed: a visual disappearance of the product and a clean touch. The volunteers were asked to have their hair washed at home 48 h before their arrival, using a standardized shampoo to control for sebum apparition.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>According to this test, on average, 7.1 L of water are needed to rinse a shampoo and 6.3 L to rinse a hair conditioner. However, there are significant differences depending on hair types: long and abundant hair requires more water to rinse shampoos and conditioners, whereas hair thickness, curliness, dryness and damage do not significantly affect the water required.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We suggest that data on product rinsability are essential when considering the water footprint for shampoos and hair conditioners. This method could be adopted for industry-wide experimentation to assess the water footprint of products and set reduction targets.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1026-1042"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13082","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144560102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pascal Hilaire, Carine Ballihaut, Celine Cornillon, Mark Donovan, Cosima Dufour-Schroif, Delphine Kerob, Jean-Jacques Schoonjans, Anna Veriato
Objective
La Roche Posay Thermal Spring Water (LRP TSW), which contains specific minerals and possesses a unique microbial composition, has proven anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, pre- and post-biotic properties and an ability to improve skin barrier function. Our objective was to confirm the effectiveness of a biomass isolated from LRP TSW on inflammatory and vascular parameters in sensitive skin.
Methods
A fully characterized strain of Sphingomonas xenophaga was isolated from LRP TSW. An industrial fermentation process was developed to obtain a reproducible biomass (the ‘ferment extract’) in order to evaluate its effect on skin parameters in vitro and in vivo. Inhibition of pre-kallikrein activity, which converts pro-bradykinin into inflammatory vasoactive bradykinin, by the ferment extract was determined in vitro. In vivo, the effect of a 4-week, twice-daily application of a 2% ferment extract cream formulation on vascular disorders was investigated in a randomized study including 86 Caucasian female subjects presenting permanent redness and vascular disorder on the face in comparison to the cream vehicle.
Results
The ferment extract inhibited in a dose-dependent manner pre-kallikrein activity in vitro, inducing 46% and 97% inhibition at concentrations of 0.4% and 0.5%, respectively. In vivo after 28 days of twice-daily applications of the ferment extract and vehicle, both treatments induced a significant decrease in vascular disorder as evaluated by clinical scoring (Dermascore® device with cross-polarized light). The mean decrease in vascular disorder score from baseline was significantly greater (p < 0.05) in the ferment extract group (−0.36) when compared to vehicle (−0.18). In addition, 60% of subjects in the group treated with the formulated ferment extract had a decreased score compared to 33% for the group treated with the vehicle.
Conclusion
Inhibition of the production of inflammatory vasoactive bradykinin by the ferment extract observed in vitro is in line with the anti-inflammatory effects of the formulated extract as shown in subjects with facial vascular disorder. The results in this study suggest that this ferment extract is a potentially new active ingredient that could be used either alone or in combination with other soothing agents to target skin inflammatory pathways and to improve skin vascular disorder.
{"title":"Evaluation of the effect of an extract of Sphingomonas xenophaga present in a Thermal Spring Water in the management of sensitive skin associated with cutaneous vascular disorder","authors":"Pascal Hilaire, Carine Ballihaut, Celine Cornillon, Mark Donovan, Cosima Dufour-Schroif, Delphine Kerob, Jean-Jacques Schoonjans, Anna Veriato","doi":"10.1111/ics.13087","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13087","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>La Roche Posay Thermal Spring Water (LRP TSW), which contains specific minerals and possesses a unique microbial composition, has proven anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, pre- and post-biotic properties and an ability to improve skin barrier function. Our objective was to confirm the effectiveness of a biomass isolated from LRP TSW on inflammatory and vascular parameters in sensitive skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A fully characterized strain of <i>Sphingomonas xenophaga</i> was isolated from LRP TSW. An industrial fermentation process was developed to obtain a reproducible biomass (the ‘ferment extract’) in order to evaluate its effect on skin parameters in vitro and in vivo. Inhibition of pre-kallikrein activity, which converts pro-bradykinin into inflammatory vasoactive bradykinin, by the ferment extract was determined in vitro. In vivo, the effect of a 4-week, twice-daily application of a 2% ferment extract cream formulation on vascular disorders was investigated in a randomized study including 86 Caucasian female subjects presenting permanent redness and vascular disorder on the face in comparison to the cream vehicle.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The ferment extract inhibited in a dose-dependent manner pre-kallikrein activity in vitro, inducing 46% and 97% inhibition at concentrations of 0.4% and 0.5%, respectively. In vivo after 28 days of twice-daily applications of the ferment extract and vehicle, both treatments induced a significant decrease in vascular disorder as evaluated by clinical scoring (Dermascore® device with cross-polarized light). The mean decrease in vascular disorder score from baseline was significantly greater (<i>p</i> < 0.05) in the ferment extract group (−0.36) when compared to vehicle (−0.18). In addition, 60% of subjects in the group treated with the formulated ferment extract had a decreased score compared to 33% for the group treated with the vehicle.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Inhibition of the production of inflammatory vasoactive bradykinin by the ferment extract observed in vitro is in line with the anti-inflammatory effects of the formulated extract as shown in subjects with facial vascular disorder. The results in this study suggest that this ferment extract is a potentially new active ingredient that could be used either alone or in combination with other soothing agents to target skin inflammatory pathways and to improve skin vascular disorder.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1017-1025"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13087","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144368848","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Emma Fraillon, Fabien P. Chevalier, Bérengère Fromy
Skin acts as a crucial barrier, protecting the body from external threats through a complex interplay of physical, chemical and immunological mechanisms. The transient receptor potential vanilloid 3 (TRPV3) channel, highly expressed in epidermal keratinocytes, emerges as a key regulator of skin homeostasis, influencing both epidermal differentiation and inflammation. This review explores the multifaceted role of TRPV3, highlighting its involvement in keratinocyte terminal differentiation and its association with inflammatory skin conditions. We discuss the current understanding of TRPV3's function in epidermal differentiation, focusing on the transforming factor-α/epidermal growth factor receptor (TGF-α/EGFR) pathway and provide new avenues of exploration for potential downstream signalling cascades. We also examine how TRPV3 hyperactivity contributes to skin inflammation drawing upon evidence from genetic studies in mice and humans with inflammatory skin conditions. Finally, we address how TRPV3 inhibition through antagonist molecules or biological negative regulation could represent potential therapeutic strategies for TRPV3-mediated inflammation. Focusing on TRPV3-driven signalling networks, this review outlines its dual role in skin homeostasis and disease, and sets the stage for future investigations into its molecular and therapeutic implications.
{"title":"TRPV3 calcium channel at the crossroads of epidermal differentiation and inflammation","authors":"Emma Fraillon, Fabien P. Chevalier, Bérengère Fromy","doi":"10.1111/ics.13090","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13090","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Skin acts as a crucial barrier, protecting the body from external threats through a complex interplay of physical, chemical and immunological mechanisms. The transient receptor potential vanilloid 3 (TRPV3) channel, highly expressed in epidermal keratinocytes, emerges as a key regulator of skin homeostasis, influencing both epidermal differentiation and inflammation. This review explores the multifaceted role of TRPV3, highlighting its involvement in keratinocyte terminal differentiation and its association with inflammatory skin conditions. We discuss the current understanding of TRPV3's function in epidermal differentiation, focusing on the transforming factor-α/epidermal growth factor receptor (TGF-α/EGFR) pathway and provide new avenues of exploration for potential downstream signalling cascades. We also examine how TRPV3 hyperactivity contributes to skin inflammation drawing upon evidence from genetic studies in mice and humans with inflammatory skin conditions. Finally, we address how TRPV3 inhibition through antagonist molecules or biological negative regulation could represent potential therapeutic strategies for TRPV3-mediated inflammation. Focusing on TRPV3-driven signalling networks, this review outlines its dual role in skin homeostasis and disease, and sets the stage for future investigations into its molecular and therapeutic implications.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1115-1124"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13090","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144325636","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Santhosha Shetty, Richa Mehta, Ratnadeep Paul Choudhury
Objective
The increasing prevalence of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in a wide range of cosmetic formulations has created a crucial need for robust and reliable analytical methods to ensure product quality, optimize formulations and meet regulatory standards. Sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone, two highly sought-after humectants renowned for their remarkable water-binding properties, present significant analytical challenges during quantification. Sodium hyaluronate, a complex polymeric structure, lacks a UV-absorbing chromophore and gluconolactone needs an indirect technique (derivatization/conversion to gluconic acid) to be quantified, which makes these analyses quite challenging in cosmetic products.
Method
This study directly addresses this critical gap in cosmetic analysis by developing and validating a novel method for the simultaneous determination of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in cosmetic compositions. This method employs size exclusion liquid chromatography (SEC), a powerful separation technique ideal for analysing polymers and macromolecules, coupled with sensitive UV detection. Using a BioSep SEC S2000 column and an isocratic mobile phase of 0.05 M potassium dihydrogen phosphate (pH 7.0), we achieved efficient separation and detection at 205 nm, enabling the quantification of both compounds despite the absence of strong chromophores.
Results
Rigorous method validation confirmed the reliability and robustness of this approach. The method demonstrated excellent linearity (r2 > 0.999) over a wide concentration range of 25–1000 μg/mL for both sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone, ensuring accurate quantification across diverse formulation concentrations. Additionally, high precision (RSD ≤1.22%), specificity against common cosmetic excipients and satisfactory recovery rates (80%–120%) further validate the method's suitability for routine quality control analysis in the cosmetic industry.
Conclusion
This sensitive, accurate and robust SEC-UV method provides a valuable new tool for cosmetic manufacturers to ensure the quality, efficacy and consumer safety of products containing these key ingredients.
{"title":"Simultaneous determination of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in cosmetic products","authors":"Santhosha Shetty, Richa Mehta, Ratnadeep Paul Choudhury","doi":"10.1111/ics.13091","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13091","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The increasing prevalence of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in a wide range of cosmetic formulations has created a crucial need for robust and reliable analytical methods to ensure product quality, optimize formulations and meet regulatory standards. Sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone, two highly sought-after humectants renowned for their remarkable water-binding properties, present significant analytical challenges during quantification. Sodium hyaluronate, a complex polymeric structure, lacks a UV-absorbing chromophore and gluconolactone needs an indirect technique (derivatization/conversion to gluconic acid) to be quantified, which makes these analyses quite challenging in cosmetic products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Method</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study directly addresses this critical gap in cosmetic analysis by developing and validating a novel method for the simultaneous determination of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in cosmetic compositions. This method employs size exclusion liquid chromatography (SEC), a powerful separation technique ideal for analysing polymers and macromolecules, coupled with sensitive UV detection. Using a BioSep SEC S2000 column and an isocratic mobile phase of 0.05 M potassium dihydrogen phosphate (pH 7.0), we achieved efficient separation and detection at 205 nm, enabling the quantification of both compounds despite the absence of strong chromophores.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Rigorous method validation confirmed the reliability and robustness of this approach. The method demonstrated excellent linearity (<i>r</i><sup>2</sup> > 0.999) over a wide concentration range of 25–1000 μg/mL for both sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone, ensuring accurate quantification across diverse formulation concentrations. Additionally, high precision (RSD ≤1.22%), specificity against common cosmetic excipients and satisfactory recovery rates (80%–120%) further validate the method's suitability for routine quality control analysis in the cosmetic industry.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This sensitive, accurate and robust SEC-UV method provides a valuable new tool for cosmetic manufacturers to ensure the quality, efficacy and consumer safety of products containing these key ingredients.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"996-1004"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144309915","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Chae Rin Kim, Jung Woo, Kyu Lim Kim, Minah Choi, Hee Jung Shin, Junoh Kim, Kyung Min Lim, Chang-Seok Lee
Objective
Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) is a prominent herbal treatment among Asian countries and its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects have already been generally elucidated. Excessive melanin synthesis is one of the major troubles in the cosmetics industry, thus such research has been extensively described. Here, we investigated the anti-melanogenic effects and molecular mechanisms of two types of alfalfa extracts: alfalfa ethanol precipitate (AEP) and alfalfa ethanol supernatant (AES).
Methods
The chemical composition of AEP and AES was analysed using HPAEC-PAD and LC–MS/MS. B16F10 cells and MNT-1 cells were used to demonstrate the inhibitory effect of two alfalfa seed extracts on melanin synthesis. The gene expression and protein levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), DCT and microphthalmia-associated factor (MITF) were confirmed using semi-quantitative RT-PCR, western blot and immunocytochemistry. Furthermore, the underlying mechanisms of these factors were elucidated in B16F10. The inhibitory effect on melanogenesis was validated using 3D artificial skin (MelanoDerm).
Results
Both AEP and AES reduced melanin content in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and subsequently decreased mRNA and protein levels of the melanogenesis-related targets, tyrosinase, TRP1 and MITF, as shown by semi-quantitative RT-PCR and immunocytochemistry. In addition, AEP and AES reduced protein levels of the MITF upstream regulators such as extracellular signal-mitogen-activated protein kinases (ERK), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and β-catenin. Similar inhibition of melanin production and decreased expression of tyrosinase protein and MITF mRNA and protein were also confirmed in MNT-1 human melanoma cells. Using artificial human skin tissue (MelanoDerm), a significant reduction in melanin content was observed.
Conclusion
Alfalfa seed extracts exert an inhibitory effect on the melanin production process by modulating the activity of ERK, CREB and β-catenin, thereby suppressing MITF and reducing the levels of tyrosinase, TRP1 and DCT. Collectively, these findings suggest that alfalfa extracts may be a promising avenue for further research and development in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
{"title":"Anti-melanogenic effects of Medicago sativa seed extracts on melanocytes","authors":"Chae Rin Kim, Jung Woo, Kyu Lim Kim, Minah Choi, Hee Jung Shin, Junoh Kim, Kyung Min Lim, Chang-Seok Lee","doi":"10.1111/ics.13092","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13092","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Alfalfa (<i>Medicago sativa</i>) is a prominent herbal treatment among Asian countries and its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects have already been generally elucidated. Excessive melanin synthesis is one of the major troubles in the cosmetics industry, thus such research has been extensively described. Here, we investigated the anti-melanogenic effects and molecular mechanisms of two types of alfalfa extracts: alfalfa ethanol precipitate (AEP) and alfalfa ethanol supernatant (AES).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The chemical composition of AEP and AES was analysed using HPAEC-PAD and LC–MS/MS. B16F10 cells and MNT-1 cells were used to demonstrate the inhibitory effect of two alfalfa seed extracts on melanin synthesis. The gene expression and protein levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), DCT and microphthalmia-associated factor (MITF) were confirmed using semi-quantitative RT-PCR, western blot and immunocytochemistry. Furthermore, the underlying mechanisms of these factors were elucidated in B16F10. The inhibitory effect on melanogenesis was validated using 3D artificial skin (MelanoDerm).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Both AEP and AES reduced melanin content in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and subsequently decreased mRNA and protein levels of the melanogenesis-related targets, tyrosinase, TRP1 and MITF, as shown by semi-quantitative RT-PCR and immunocytochemistry. In addition, AEP and AES reduced protein levels of the MITF upstream regulators such as extracellular signal-mitogen-activated protein kinases (ERK), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and β-catenin. Similar inhibition of melanin production and decreased expression of tyrosinase protein and MITF mRNA and protein were also confirmed in MNT-1 human melanoma cells. Using artificial human skin tissue (MelanoDerm), a significant reduction in melanin content was observed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Alfalfa seed extracts exert an inhibitory effect on the melanin production process by modulating the activity of ERK, CREB and β-catenin, thereby suppressing MITF and reducing the levels of tyrosinase, TRP1 and DCT. Collectively, these findings suggest that alfalfa extracts may be a promising avenue for further research and development in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1005-1016"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13092","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144309833","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
An evaporation study was conducted on the skin of several volunteers to examine whether skin properties influence fragrance molecules’ evaporation rates. The aim was to identify the observed variations and explore the responsible fragrance molecular and skin factors. To study the evaporation phenomenon, fragrance molecules evaporation was semi-quantified from each volunteer's skin. This approach allowed a comparison of evaporation across individuals and provided insights into how the fragrance molecules interacted differently depending on skin types. Skin properties were subsequently measured to explain the observed differences in evaporation between individuals. Statistical analysis was performed to understand how both skin type and the intrinsic properties of fragrance molecules contribute to the observed variations in evaporation rates. This study offers promising results, advancing our understanding of the evaporation behaviour of fragrance molecules and its relationship with the physicochemical properties of the skin and the intrinsic characteristics of the fragrances.
{"title":"Exploring the impact of fragrance molecular and skin properties on the evaporation profile of fragrances","authors":"Elise Hadjiefstathiou, Géraldine Savary, Catherine Malhiac, Daria Terescenco, Céline Picard","doi":"10.1111/ics.13085","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13085","url":null,"abstract":"<p>An evaporation study was conducted on the skin of several volunteers to examine whether skin properties influence fragrance molecules’ evaporation rates. The aim was to identify the observed variations and explore the responsible fragrance molecular and skin factors. To study the evaporation phenomenon, fragrance molecules evaporation was semi-quantified from each volunteer's skin. This approach allowed a comparison of evaporation across individuals and provided insights into how the fragrance molecules interacted differently depending on skin types. Skin properties were subsequently measured to explain the observed differences in evaporation between individuals. Statistical analysis was performed to understand how both skin type and the intrinsic properties of fragrance molecules contribute to the observed variations in evaporation rates. This study offers promising results, advancing our understanding of the evaporation behaviour of fragrance molecules and its relationship with the physicochemical properties of the skin and the intrinsic characteristics of the fragrances.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"981-995"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13085","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144309914","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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