International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Melanosomal localization is required for GIF-2115/2250 to inhibit melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells","authors":"Ayumi Sakurai,&nbsp;Kyoka Kawaguchi,&nbsp;Miyu Watanabe,&nbsp;Sayaka Okajima,&nbsp;Saho Furukawa,&nbsp;Kenichi Koga,&nbsp;Kentaro Oh-Hashi,&nbsp;Yoko Hirata,&nbsp;Kyoji Furuta,&nbsp;Hiroshi Takemori","doi":"10.1111/ics.12949","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12949","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Tyrosinase inhibitors suppress melanogenesis in melanocytes. During a screening for tyrosinase inhibitors, however, we noticed some discrepancies in inhibitory efficacies between melanocytes and in vitro assays. The compound (<i>S</i>)-<i>N</i>-{3-[4-(dimethylamino)phenyl]propyl}-<i>N</i>-methyl-indan-1-amine (GIF-2115) exerts antioxidative stress activity upon accumulation in late endosomes and lysosomes. GIF-2115 was also identified as a potent antimelanogenic reagent in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. GIF-2115 inhibited the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and the lysates of B16F10 cells. However, structure–activity relationship studies indicated that GIF-2238, which lacks the benzene ring in the aminoindan structure of GIF-2115, inhibited tyrosinase activity in vitro but did not inhibit melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. The aim of the present study is to show the importance of the intracellular distribution of tyrosinase inhibitors in exerting their antimelanogenic activity in melanocytes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The intracellular distribution of compounds was monitored by linking with the fluorescent group of 7-nitro-2,1,3-benzoxadiazole (NBD). To mislocalize GIF-2115 to mitochondria, the mitochondria-preferring fluoroprobe ATTO565 was used.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We reconfirmed the localization of GIF-2250 (GIF-2115-NBD) not only to matured but also to early-stage melanosomes. Although GIF-2286 (GIF-2238-NBD) maintained tyrosinase inhibitory activity, it did not show specific intracellular localization. Moreover, when GIF-2115 was linked with ATTO565, the resultant compound GIF-2265 did not inhibit melanogenesis in B16F10 cells, despite its strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These results suggest that melanosomal localization is essential for the antimelanogenic activity of GIF-2115, and GIF-2115 derivatives may be new guides for drugs to endosomes and lysosomes as well as melanosomes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"668-679"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-02-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139702480","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Deep skin homogeneity and light diffusion: An accelerated Monte Carlo model for in vivo skin characterization and consumer perception","authors":"G. Puccetti","doi":"10.1111/ics.12936","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12936","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The appearance of healthy and youthful skin is related to many factors of the skin optical properties as perceived by our visual sense. The optics of light travelling through human tissues has been extensively investigated in the field of biomedical applications, including the experimental characterization and modelling of skin optics and the propagation of light such as lasers through the layers. This work presents an innovative approach to probe deep skin by means of spectrally and spatially resolved light diffusion in the different layers of skin. Dual hyperspectral measurements of the panellist's skin are performed in vivo on subjects to obtain reflectance and light diffusion spectra. Both are simultaneously fitted by a GPU-accelerated Monte Carlo model to obtain skin optical parameters as a function of depth. The results show a clear correlation between deep skin light diffusion at wavelengths above 590 nm and the subject age, which indicates a progressive degradation of skin homogeneity with age. The effect of this orange–red light diffusion background is to alter the colour tone of the skin. A skincare product is used to show that the warmer skin colour tone is clearly perceivable to consumers when evaluating facial images with and without the product. The product effect also correlates well with hyperspectral measurements. Lastly, this innovative approach demonstrates a first step in real-time skin characterization for consumers and opens the door to customized cosmetic solutions for individual needs.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"368-379"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139563568","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Talk to us about your skin: The relationship between spoken language and haptic exploratory procedures","authors":"Naomi Arakawa,&nbsp;Tomoko Watanabe,&nbsp;Kyoko Fukushima,&nbsp;Yuko Matsumoto,&nbsp;Masashi Nakatani","doi":"10.1111/ics.12943","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12943","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To enhance satisfaction, the cosmetics industry needs to clearly understand consumers' descriptions of their key tactile preferences. It is difficult for researchers to understand verbal descriptions from people whose native language is different from their own. Previous research has implied that some sensory words with the same lexical meanings have been observed in different haptic exploratory procedures (HEPs). Therefore, our study aims to investigate and understand the key tactile perceptions of people from five different countries based on their descriptions and their HEPs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In Experiment 1, 1545 participants living in the US, Japan, China, Italy, and Thailand described their major tactile perceptions as efficacy in skincare, and we analysed the frequency of each word used in their answers. In Experiment 2, we confirmed the task to observe HEPs for Chinese, Italian, and Thai participants. A total of 24 participants in China, 33 participants in Italy, and 30 participants in Thailand freely explored their faces with their hands and answered which side more closely matched the major tactile adjectives. Experts classified the observed HEPs into six classifications within two categories and three contact area sizes and investigated the cultural differences.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>More than 2% of the Chinese, Italian, Thai, US, and Japanese participants described 33, 20, 29, 22, and 18 words, respectively, as efficacy in skincare. Verified words that described the major tactile perceptions in each native language had the same meanings as moistness, firmness, softness, smoothness, and so on. We could confirm the HEPs of these major feelings for the participants from each culture. Chinese and Thai participants' HEPs for moistness or softness were observed with a pressing movement. Conversely, Italian participants' HEPs for moistness or softness were observed with a rubbing movement.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study showed that words with the same lexical meanings evoked different HEPs. The results imply that different HEPs can provide different physical stimuli on the skin. Therefore, it is important to survey both objects and HEPs to better understand the tactile experience.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"437-456"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139485321","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Lipidomic analysis of facial skin surface lipids in acne in young women","authors":"Qianqian Su,&nbsp;Xueqing Hu,&nbsp;Manli Yang,&nbsp;Huaming He,&nbsp;Yan Jia","doi":"10.1111/ics.12942","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12942","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Alterations in the secretion and composition of skin surface lipids (SSL) are closely associated with the development of acne. Lipidomics is a useful tool to analyse the SSL of different types of acne. Our previous study found that phosphatidylserine and triacylglycerols dominate SSL changes in male acne and infantile acne, respectively. However, skin surface lipids as well as specific lipids in female acne patients remain to be investigated.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To analyse and compare the SSL profile of acne women and healthy women and to discuss the involvement of differential lipids in acne development.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Systematic lipidomics approach (high-throughput UPLC-QTOF-MS technology in combination with multivariate data analysis methods) was used to analyse the variations of SSL between acne and healthy groups.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Analysis revealed significant differences in lipid content and composition between the two groups. Further analysis showed that levels of 13 individual lipids were significantly different and followed the same trend as the main class and subclasses. The largest individual contributor to the subgroup was triglycerides (TG) and phosphatidylinositol (PI). In addition, female acne patients exhibited reduced ceramide chain length (CCL) and increased levels of unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), The changes of CCL in female acne are identical to male acne.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>There was a significantly higher level of TG and PI in the SSL of female acne patients. A reduction in CCL and an increase in UFAs content might contribute to the reduced skin barrier function in acne patients. The results suggest that female acne may have different pathogenesis than male acne.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"424-436"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139478045","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Correlation between the facial skin microbiome and sensitive skin using the 2bRAD-M technique","authors":"Yi-na Lu,&nbsp;Lu Cheng,&nbsp;Xue-mei Shi","doi":"10.1111/ics.12941","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12941","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to expound on the correlation between facial skin microbiome and sensitive skin (SS) using a novel sequencing technique.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We applied the 2bRAD sequencing for the microbiome, which enables accurate characterization of the low-biomass microbiome at species resolution to profile facial skin microbes in SS and non-SS groups. Further, the bacterial colonies were isolated and cultured from skin surfaces to study the pro-inflammatory effect on human keratinocytes by ELISA.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We accordingly identified 1142 genera and 4436 strains. In the SS group, the proportions of <i>Actinomyces</i> and <i>Microbotryomycetes</i> were significantly increased, whereas that of <i>Acidimicrobiia</i> was decreased. Kruskal–Wallis analysis revealed significant differences in 11 genera and 35 species, among which the proportions of <i>Dermabacter</i>, <i>Chryseobacterium</i>, <i>Rhodotorula</i> and <i>Peptoniphilus A</i> were increased in the SS group. Analysis of the top 10 genera revealed increased proportions of <i>Cutibacterium</i>, <i>Corynebacterium</i> and <i>Staphylococcus</i>. Moreover, the proportion of <i>Dermabacter hominis</i> was significantly increased by 18.9-fold in the SS group, whereas those of many <i>Streptococcus</i> strains were significantly decreased. Focus on the isolated bacterial colonies from skin surfaces, more yellow colonies were found in SS group when cultured in Tryptic Soy Broth medium for 48 h, and more interleukin-8 was detected on keratinocytes after yellow colonies stimulation, such as <i>S.capitis</i>, <i>M.luteus</i>.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study suggests that more SS-associated microorganisms can be identified using the 2bRAD technique even with a small sample size. <i>Dermabacter hominis</i> and <i>Chryseobacterium</i> was firstly reported with a significantly increase in SS, and the <i>S.capitis</i>, as well as <i>M.luteus</i>, but not <i>S.aureus</i>, may be associated with skin inflammation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"414-423"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139477949","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K","authors":"Márcia J. A. Silva,&nbsp;Leonard D. R. Acho,&nbsp;Simone B. Carneiro,&nbsp;Anderson C. Guimarães,&nbsp;Emerson S. Lima","doi":"10.1111/ics.12945","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12945","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of <i>Bertholletia excelsa</i> H.B.K – (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"643-656"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-01-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139477954","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Reconnection of cysteine in reduced hair with alkylene dimaleates via thiol-Michael click chemistry","authors":"Yuwen Wu,&nbsp;Ling Ma,&nbsp;Timson Chen,&nbsp;Kuan Chang,&nbsp;Jing Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.12944","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12944","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Conventional hair permanent waving (PW) and permanent straightening processes typically involve two steps: reduction, for breaking -S-S- bond in cystine into cysteine and oxidation for -S-S- bond reconnection. However, it is known that the hair incurs damage during the oxidation step. In this work, we proposed a novel strategy to reconnect reduced disulfide bonds in hair via the thiol-Michael click reaction, by using a symmetric Michael reagent.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Virgin black Chinese hair was reduced using 8% wt thioglycolic acid and employed as model hair containing a high content of broken disulfide bonds. The reduced hair was treated with 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate. Raman spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used to verify the chemical changes occurred in untreated and treated hair fibre. Single-fibre mechanical properties and thermal properties of the hair were evaluated using tensile testing and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), respectively.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate could reconnect free thiol groups generated by disulfide bond reduction via thiol-Michael click reaction and significantly improve the mechanical strength of hair compared to that of the reduced hair. Secondary conformational resolution analysis of FT-IR results revealed that the content of <i>α</i>-helix structure could be restored after treatment with 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate. The intermolecular forces established by the newly generated C-S bonds compensate the broken disulfide bonds and enhance the fracture strength of the hair compared to that of reduced hair. Michael reagents of similar structure also showed similar performance in restoring the mechanical properties of reduced hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our data suggest that 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate can restore the mechanical properties of reduced hair by reconnecting reduced disulfide bonds and restoring the secondary conformation of hair keratin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"457-467"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139466203","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Investigating the impact of sebum secretion on liquid makeup foundation darkening and its solution","authors":"Qi Zhang,&nbsp;Gang Chen,&nbsp;Yifan Hou,&nbsp;Sijing Wang,&nbsp;Qianru Xia,&nbsp;Jing Yu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12939","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12939","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Darkening has been an issue of concern for foundation products. The secretion of sebum plays a significant role in the process of foundation darkening, but the underlying mechanisms and solutions have been rarely reported. The aim of this study was to explore the relationship between sebum secretion and liquid foundation darkening and to provide possible solutions for reducing sebum-induced darkening in liquid foundation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Artificial sebum in different concentrations was added to a basic liquid foundation to simulate different stages of sebum secretion. The colour of the mixture was then measured by a spectrophotometer on the standard opacity chart. Potential technical solutions for anti-darkening were applied to a basic liquid foundation, and its ability to anti-darkening was further verified in vivo.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>(1) The influences of sebum addition on liquid foundation darkening had a significant positive correlation with the increase in transmissivities (<i>R</i>² = 0.852, <i>p</i> &lt; 0.01). (2) A certain range of sebum addition can reduce the darkening of volatile foundations. (3) The liquid foundations using pigments with high dispersibility in sebum were less influenced by sebum. (4) The replacement of pigments with oil-fixing ability could effectively reduce the darkening of liquid foundations induced by sebum (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.01).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The effect of sebum on the darkening of liquid foundation was accompanied by a greater transmissivity as its pigment concentration decreased. Balanced volatility, the addition of powders with higher sebum dispersibility and the replacement of oil-fixing powders could reduce the darkening of the liquid foundation caused by sebum secretion.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 1","pages":"142-152"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139471543","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Anti-aging and rejuvenating effects and mechanism of Dead Sea water in skin","authors":"Xiaojuan Yan,&nbsp;Xijun Bao,&nbsp;Shujun Cheng,&nbsp;Qian Ba,&nbsp;Junzhuang Chang,&nbsp;Kanghui Zhou,&nbsp;Xiufang Yan","doi":"10.1111/ics.12931","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12931","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>External environmental stressors and internal factors have a significant impact on the skin, causing inflammation, aging, reduced immunity and other adverse responses. Dead Sea Water (DSW) is well known for its dermatological benefits and has been widely used in dermatological therapy and skin care for conditions such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and photoaging. However, the anti-aging and rejuvenating effects of DSW and the related biological pathways involved, which have attracted increasing attention, are not fully understood. The aim of this study is to investigate the anti-aging and rejuvenating effects of DSW and to explore the related potential biological mechanisms of DSW under different environmental conditions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The effects of DSW were investigated using in vitro human dermal cells and reconstructed skin models. Extracellular matrix (ECM) components and the morphological changes at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) in a 3D human skin model were evaluated after DSW treatment. RNA sequencing (RNA-seq) analysis of human dermal fibroblast models after DSW treatment was performed to explore the potential mechanisms of action of DSW under normal and UV stress conditions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The novel findings in this work present the biological functions of DSW, including procollagen-1 and elastin secretion, hemidesmosome increase and the epidermal basal cell regeneration. In addition, GO, KEGG and Reactome analyses reveal the activation of pathways related to ion transmembrane transporter activity, ECM component biosynthesis, senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), DNA repair and autophagy, which are associated with the anti-aging activities of DSW.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our work provides new perspectives for understanding the anti-aging and rejuvenating effects and mechanisms of DSW. The new findings also provide a theoretical basis for the further development of age-related strategies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 2","pages":"307-317"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12931","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139424702","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mild but effective skin cleansing—Evaluation of laureth-23 as a primary surfactant","authors":"Anja Dick,&nbsp;Hermann Josef Stolz,&nbsp;Flora Karla Sonsmann","doi":"10.1111/ics.12940","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12940","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Skin cleansing products are among the main reasons for the development of hand eczema. Therefore, a mild but effective skin cleansing product is of particular interest, especially in the work place, where various contaminations frequently have to be removed from hands.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In this study, the potential of laureth-23 as a primary surfactant was evaluated and compared to other fatty alcohol ethoxylates (FAEO). Also, different laureth-23 surfactant combinations were compared to each other. Therefore, transepidermal water loss, erythema and visual scoring were measured after occlusive patch testing in 24 healthy subjects (aged 18–55). Afterwards, the results were ranked from low to high irritant potential and an irritation score was calculated. Furthermore, the cleaning performance was tested using an automated cleansing device in 10 healthy subjects (aged 18–55).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results confirmed the low irritant potential of laureth-23 and blends thereof. Within the different laureth-23 surfactant combinations, the combination of laureth-23 with a mild amphoteric and a mild anionic surfactant was superior to other laureth-23 surfactant combinations like laureth-23/anionic/anionic regarding skin compatibility as well as cleaning performance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In conclusion, laureth-23 showed very good performance as a primary surfactant. Especially, the combination of laureth-23, cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium laureth sulfosuccinate was mild to the skin while also showing good cleansing performance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"403-413"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12940","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139402774","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}