International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

Objective

Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging.

Methods

Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components.

Results

Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones.

Conclusion

The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.

Objective

Recent work examined the influence of topically applied just-add-water creams containing Lactobacillus plantarum probiotic cultures on to reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). The ability to blend various quiescent probiotic powders in topical systems allows for the examination of these powders on RHEs employing various individual quiescent probiotics using human gene microarrays.

Methods

Four topical Just-Add-Water powders (STRATABIOSYS™ Technologies) were prepared containing the following: (1) Lactobacillus plantarum Lp90 [200 M CFU/g]; (2) Saccharomyces cerevisiae [200 M CFU/g]; (3) Streptococcus thermophilus [200 M CFU/g]; and (4) Lactococcus Lactis LLa61 [200 M CFU/g]. A powder without probiotics was used as a placebo control. The creams were prepared by taking 3% of each powder and dissolving it into sterile water. A 15 μL sample of each cream was applied to a RHE tissue that presented approximately 90 K CFU/g of each microorganism on the tissue. The RHE was treated for 24 h with the creams whereupon the residual cream was rinsed off, and the tissues were analysed using Agilent human gene microarrays containing 19 217 individual genes from which a smaller subset of 244 genes pertinent to skin were culled.

Results

The following probiotic specific gene responses were found: (1) Lactobacillus plantarum upregulated 4.9% of the skin-relevant gene set; (2) Saccharomyces cerevisiae upregulated 7.8% of the skin relevant gene set; Streptococcus thermophilus upregulated 6.1% of the skin relevant gene set; Lactococcus lactis upregulated 7.0% of the skin relevant gene set.

Conclusion

A method to examine topical probiotics on RHE has been described that involves converting the powders to preservative-free creams.

Objective

Research documents effects of skin features on assessments of age, health and attractiveness of female faces. Ethnic variation also has been reported for the impact of age-related changes in skin features on face assessments. Here, we investigate women's self-ratings across age cohorts and ethnic groups and discrepancies with (non-expert) assessor ratings of facial appearance together with age-dependent changes in skin features.

Methods

Faces of women 20–65 years from five ethnic groups (each n = 36) were imaged. Participants provided self-ratings of age, health and attractiveness, and were judged on these attributes by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Age-dependent changes in ratings and skin features within and between ethnic groups were assessed by comparing information from 10-year cohorts. We also tested whether menopausal status could be predicted by self-ratings, assessor ratings and image-based skin features.

Results

Women of all ethnic groups judged themselves younger and higher in attractiveness and health compared to third-party assessors, with the largest discrepancies for age in French women and for attractiveness and health in South African women. In Indian and South African women, specular gloss and skin tone evenness were lower compared to other participants, and sagging was higher in Indian, Japanese and South African women compared to Chinese and French women. Women's menopausal status could be predicted from assessor ratings and image-based skin features but not from self-ratings.

Conclusion

There are differences between women's self-ratings and assessor ratings of facial appearance. These discrepancies vary with female age and ethnicity. Age and ethnicity effects also are evident in age-dependent changes in skin features within and across ethnic groups, which together with assessor (but not self-) ratings of facial appearance predict menopausal status.

Objective

The aim of this study is to develop and optimize a method for evaluating the persistence of residual fragrance after body washing, addressing a significant requirement in the development of personal care products. The main objective is to establish a reliable, sensitive and reproducible analytical technique to assess fragrance longevity on skin post-use of body wash products.

Methods

Headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) coupled with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) is used to analyse residual fragrances. We investigate the extraction efficiencies of various SPME fibres and compare different methods for sampling skin-emitted fragrances, including tape stripping and sealed glass funnels. A controlled body-washing procedure is implemented to standardize the cleansing process.

Results

Our findings indicate that the relative standard deviation for measuring five distinct fragrances is within the range of 3%–14%, highlighting the precision of the method. A notable variance exists in the extraction efficiency of fragrances using different types of SPME fibres, with some exhibiting over a threefold difference. Furthermore, the glass funnel method for fragrance collection demonstrates an 11.7 times greater sensitivity to galaxolide than that of the tape-stripping method. Residual fragrances with base notes as the main components can be detected on the skin up to 24 h after body washing.

Conclusion

The optimized method for residual fragrance evaluation developed in this study offers a robust tool for analysing fragrance components persisting on the skin for up to 24 h post-wash. This advancement facilitates a deeper understanding of fragrance longevity in personal care products, enabling comparative analyses between different products.

Objective

Today, there is only limited knowledge of the spatial organization of hair chemistry. Infrared microspectroscopy is a well-established tool to provide such information and has significantly contributed to this field. In this study, we present new results combining multiple infrared microspectroscopy methods at different length scales to create a better chemical histology of human hair, including the hair follicle, hair shaft, hair medulla and hair cuticle.

Methods

We used hyperspectral IR imaging & spectroscopy (HIRIS) and synchrotron-radiation FTIR microspectroscopy (SR-μFTIR) to measure transversal hair sections and SR-μFTIR to obtain high-resolution maps of longitudinal sections from the hair shaft and from the hair follicle. We used optical photothermal IR microspectroscopy (OPTIR) to analyse the cuticle surface of intact hairs.

Results

By mapping longitudinal sections of the human hair follicle with confocal SR-μFTIR, we report the first demonstration of glycogen presence in the outer root sheath of the hair follicle by spectroscopy, and its quantification at the micron scale. Spectral maps, combined with machine learning-based analysis, enabled us to differentiate the various layers of the hair follicle and provided insights into the chemical changes that occur during hair formation in the follicle.

Using HIRIS and SR-μFTIR to analyse the hair medulla in transversal sections of human hairs, we report here, for the first time by vibrational spectroscopy methods, the detection of unsaturated lipids at very low concentrations in the medulla.

By analysing longitudinal sections of the hair shaft with SR-μFTIR, we found that calcium carboxylates are present in large regions of the hair cuticle, and not just in small focal areas as previously thought. We then use OPTIR to analyse the hair cuticle of intact hairs at submicron resolution without sectioning and report the distribution of calcium carboxylates at the surface of intact hair for the first time.

Conclusion

These new findings illustrate the potential of infrared microspectroscopy for imaging the chemical composition of human hair and may have implications for biomedical research or cosmetology.

Objective

The emergence of new human and environmental-related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water-in-oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations.

Methods

Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle-based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)-based water-in-oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured.

Results

We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO-based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (N = 100 subjects).

Conclusions

XA is differentiated as a photostable, water-soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry.

Objective

The objective of this work was to understand how triglyceride plant oils can deliver strength and softness benefits to hair by their penetration. These plant oils are complex mixtures of TAGs, so the initial studies performed were with pure TAGs and then these data compared to plant oils and their measured TAG compositions.

Methods

LC–MS was used to identify the di and triglycerides in coconut oil, Camellia oleifera oil and safflower seed oil. Penetration of these plant oils and pure individual triglycerides was measured by a differential extraction method. Cross-sections of oils treated with ¹³C-labelled triolein were studied by NanoSIMS to visualize location of triglyceride inside hair. Fatigue strength was measured using constant stress to generate a survival distribution. Models of the lipid-rich cell membrane complex (CMC) were created with the equimolar ratio of 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (MEAS), palmitic acid (C16:0) and oleic acid (C18:1).

Results

Penetration of the individual pure TAGs was confirmed for all chain lengths and degree of unsaturation tested with higher penetration for shorter chain lengths and unsaturated fatty acids. Detailed compositional analysis of selected plant oils showed a wide variety of TAGs and penetration was also demonstrated for these oils. NanoSIMS and modelling confirmed these TAGs are penetrating the lipid-rich CMC of hair and are interacting with the fatty acids that make up the CMC. All plant oils delivered a fatigue strength improvement by penetration into the CMC and it is proposed that these oils prevent formation and/or propagation of flaws in the CMC network that leads to breakage.

Conclusions

Many plant oils with a wide range of triglyceride compositions can penetrate into hair and NanoSIMS data confirmed these oils partition into the lipid-rich cell membrane complex. Penetration studies of individual TAGs shown to be present in these oils confirmed TAGs of varying chain length can penetrate and there is a correlation between increased penetration efficacy and shorter chain lengths and presence of unsaturation in the fatty acid chains. All the oils studied delivered single fibre fatigue strength benefits.