Magnolia biondii, a plant containing many magnolian-like compounds in its flowers or buds, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antiallergic effects; however, no study has addressed its effect on alleviating ultraviolet light (UV)-induced skin damage. We thus aimed at studying the effects of M. biondii flower extract (MB) on UVB-induced skin damage and determine the relationship between cell damage and damage-associated molecular patterns (DAMPs).
Methods
Reconstructed epidermal models and foreskin samples were selected to detect cellular reactions after UVB irradiation and MB treatment. MTT, haematoxylin–eosin and immunofluorescence staining were used to examine total viability, sunburned cells and expression and migration of DAMPs at 16 or 48 h. Prostaglandin E2 (PGE-2) and interleukin 8 (IL-8) levels were measured using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays. A clinical UVB-damaged test was carried out on human arms subjected to MB pre- or post-treatment. Human skin probes were used to measure erythema, melanin, ITA° and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while skin photos were captured using the VISIA system.
Results
MB is rich in lignans such as magnolin, pinoresinol dimethyl ether and fargesin, and shows weak UV absorption at 280–320 nm. Coculturing with MB for 16 or 48 h after UVB irradiation improved the tissue viability and structure of Skinovo-Epi, and reduced the expression and migration of high mobility group box protein B1 (HMGB1) as well as the expression of IL-8 and PGE-2. In the excised foreskin treated with MB after UVB irradiation, the generation of 8-hidroxy-2-deoxyguanosine and nuclear transfer of HMGB1 were reduced. When pre-treated with MB for 3 days, UVB-induced skin erythema and ITA° were significantly decreased. When post-treated with MB for 5 days, a decrease in skin erythema, melanin and TEWL values and an increase in skin ITA° were observed.
Conclusions
Treatment with MB attenuated UVB-induced skin damage, such as erythema, pigmentation and skin barrier function, by improving the tissue viability and structure and reducing sunburned cells and skin inflammation. This effect may be related to DNA damage, which causes the migration of HMGB1 from the nucleus to the outside of the cell to induce skin inflammation.
{"title":"Magnolia biondii flower extract attenuates UVB-induced skin damage through high-mobility group box protein B1","authors":"Fang Huang, Qing Liu, Yina Lu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12959","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12959","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p><i>Magnolia biondii</i>, a plant containing many magnolian-like compounds in its flowers or buds, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antiallergic effects; however, no study has addressed its effect on alleviating ultraviolet light (UV)-induced skin damage. We thus aimed at studying the effects of <i>M. biondii</i> flower extract (MB) on UVB-induced skin damage and determine the relationship between cell damage and damage-associated molecular patterns (DAMPs).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Reconstructed epidermal models and foreskin samples were selected to detect cellular reactions after UVB irradiation and MB treatment. MTT, haematoxylin–eosin and immunofluorescence staining were used to examine total viability, sunburned cells and expression and migration of DAMPs at 16 or 48 h. Prostaglandin E2 (PGE-2) and interleukin 8 (IL-8) levels were measured using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays. A clinical UVB-damaged test was carried out on human arms subjected to MB pre- or post-treatment. Human skin probes were used to measure erythema, melanin, ITA° and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while skin photos were captured using the VISIA system.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>MB is rich in lignans such as magnolin, pinoresinol dimethyl ether and fargesin, and shows weak UV absorption at 280–320 nm. Coculturing with MB for 16 or 48 h after UVB irradiation improved the tissue viability and structure of Skinovo-Epi, and reduced the expression and migration of high mobility group box protein B1 (HMGB1) as well as the expression of IL-8 and PGE-2. In the excised foreskin treated with MB after UVB irradiation, the generation of 8-hidroxy-2-deoxyguanosine and nuclear transfer of HMGB1 were reduced. When pre-treated with MB for 3 days, UVB-induced skin erythema and ITA° were significantly decreased. When post-treated with MB for 5 days, a decrease in skin erythema, melanin and TEWL values and an increase in skin ITA° were observed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Treatment with MB attenuated UVB-induced skin damage, such as erythema, pigmentation and skin barrier function, by improving the tissue viability and structure and reducing sunburned cells and skin inflammation. This effect may be related to DNA damage, which causes the migration of HMGB1 from the nucleus to the outside of the cell to induce skin inflammation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"775-785"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140839066","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Active ingredients are often assessed based on physiological measurements, but innovative technologies to measure skin sensations can provide a holistic volunteer assessment of the use of an ingredient. In this paper, the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid (HA) were evaluated alongside clinical biometrics and innovative cognitive measurements to determine how biological benefits correlated with volunteers' feelings and perceptions of hydration. The results demonstrated that cationic HA provides hydrating benefits at the clinical level due to its film-forming properties. Through the use of innovative behavioural measurement tools, we were able to show that these outcomes are perceived by naïve consumers in real-life conditions. In addition, the benefits of cationic HA reported by users were in accordance with the mental representation they had related to the use of HA, thus the product achieved complete sensorial embodiment. We can conclude that the combination of clinical evaluations and home use trials consolidates product assessment when seeking to measure consumer satisfaction with proven biological benefits.
活性成分的评估通常基于生理测量，但测量皮肤感觉的创新技术可以提供志愿者对成分使用的整体评估。本文在评估阳离子透明质酸（HA）的保湿功效时，同时采用了临床生物测量法和创新认知测量法，以确定生物功效与志愿者的保湿感受和认知之间的相关性。结果表明，阳离子透明质酸因其成膜特性在临床层面上具有保湿功效。通过使用创新的行为测量工具，我们能够证明天真的消费者在现实生活中能够感知到这些结果。此外，用户报告的阳离子 HA 的益处与他们使用 HA 时的心理表征一致，因此该产品实现了完全的感官体现。我们可以得出这样的结论：在寻求衡量消费者对已证实的生物功效的满意度时，临床评估和家庭使用试验的结合可以巩固产品评估。
{"title":"Evaluation of the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid: From biological evaluation to consumer home use trial","authors":"Justine Blanc Catala, Catherine Zanchetta, Candice François, Emilie Chapuis, Nathalie Joset, Marie Meunier, Florian Loeser, Shan Godbille, Amandine Scandolera, Romain Reynaud, Fabrice Lefèvre","doi":"10.1111/ics.12965","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12965","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Active ingredients are often assessed based on physiological measurements, but innovative technologies to measure skin sensations can provide a holistic volunteer assessment of the use of an ingredient. In this paper, the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid (HA) were evaluated alongside clinical biometrics and innovative cognitive measurements to determine how biological benefits correlated with volunteers' feelings and perceptions of hydration. The results demonstrated that cationic HA provides hydrating benefits at the clinical level due to its film-forming properties. Through the use of innovative behavioural measurement tools, we were able to show that these outcomes are perceived by naïve consumers in real-life conditions. In addition, the benefits of cationic HA reported by users were in accordance with the mental representation they had related to the use of HA, thus the product achieved complete sensorial embodiment. We can conclude that the combination of clinical evaluations and home use trials consolidates product assessment when seeking to measure consumer satisfaction with proven biological benefits.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"795-805"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12965","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140839159","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hair defined as curly has an elliptical cross sectional area and unique 3D form. While the chemical, morphological and mechanical characteristics of such hair are being explored using a range of analytical techniques, hair assembly (head of hair) characteristics and individual behaviour are difficult to determine via tress-based instrumental and sensory testing. Since the demand for more efficacious and personalized products is expected to gain pace, this project sets the groundwork for developing a taxonomy for exploring and classifying curly hair needs from an individual's perspective. A mixed-method exploratory sequential design was used to gather information from people with curly hair starting with a novel in the field of cosmetics qualitative research method, Subjective Evidence-Based Ethnography (SEBE) (n = 14) and followed by an online survey (n = 212). The SEBE data analysis identified four common hair goals (aesthetic, haptic, practical and emotive) and a group of perceptions related to hair management routines. The survey explored the relationship of these hair goals with hair perceptions, hair esteem, hair characteristics and demographic variables. The findings suggest that hair goals and perceptions are stronger predictors of hair esteem than other characteristics such as hair length or curl type. Hence, a taxonomy for classifying curly hair should facilitate the development of more appropriate products, and product testing methods should incorporate such personal information in addition to objective fibre and hair assembly data. The focus of this study is on curly hair due to the lack of established methods for its objective evaluation and the personal challenges faced by people with curly and textured hair; however, the approach could be adopted to include straighter hair types.
被定义为卷发的头发具有椭圆形的横截面积和独特的三维形态。虽然目前正在使用一系列分析技术探索此类头发的化学、形态和机械特征，但头发的组合（发头）特征和个体行为却很难通过基于发丝的仪器和感官测试来确定。由于对更高效、更个性化产品的需求预计将不断增长，本项目为从个人角度探索卷发需求并对其进行分类奠定了基础。本项目采用混合方法探索性顺序设计，从卷发人群中收集信息，首先采用化妆品领域新颖的定性研究方法--主观证据人种学（SEBE）（n = 14），然后进行在线调查（n = 212）。通过 SEBE 数据分析，确定了四种常见的美发目标（审美、触觉、实用和情感）以及一组与头发管理常规相关的认知。调查探讨了这些美发目标与头发认知、头发自尊、头发特征和人口统计学变量之间的关系。调查结果表明，与头发长度或卷曲类型等其他特征相比，头发目标和看法更能预测头发自尊。因此，卷发分类标准应有助于开发更合适的产品，而产品测试方法除了客观的纤维和头发组合数据外，还应纳入这些个人信息。本研究的重点是卷发，因为缺乏对其进行客观评估的既定方法，而且卷发和纹理发质的人面临着个人挑战；不过，本方法也可用于直发类型。
{"title":"Towards a taxonomy for assessing and classifying the needs of curly hair: A mixed method, ethnographic and quantitative data study","authors":"Gabriela Daniels, Maxi Heitmayer","doi":"10.1111/ics.12952","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12952","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Hair defined as curly has an elliptical cross sectional area and unique 3D form. While the chemical, morphological and mechanical characteristics of such hair are being explored using a range of analytical techniques, hair assembly (head of hair) characteristics and individual behaviour are difficult to determine via tress-based instrumental and sensory testing. Since the demand for more efficacious and personalized products is expected to gain pace, this project sets the groundwork for developing a taxonomy for exploring and classifying curly hair needs from an individual's perspective. A mixed-method exploratory sequential design was used to gather information from people with curly hair starting with a novel in the field of cosmetics qualitative research method, Subjective Evidence-Based Ethnography (SEBE) (<i>n</i> = 14) and followed by an online survey (<i>n</i> = 212). The SEBE data analysis identified four common hair goals (aesthetic, haptic, practical and emotive) and a group of perceptions related to hair management routines. The survey explored the relationship of these hair goals with hair perceptions, hair esteem, hair characteristics and demographic variables. The findings suggest that hair goals and perceptions are stronger predictors of hair esteem than other characteristics such as hair length or curl type. Hence, a taxonomy for classifying curly hair should facilitate the development of more appropriate products, and product testing methods should incorporate such personal information in addition to objective fibre and hair assembly data. The focus of this study is on curly hair due to the lack of established methods for its objective evaluation and the personal challenges faced by people with curly and textured hair; however, the approach could be adopted to include straighter hair types.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"746-760"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-04-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12952","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140564482","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Sleep disorders are widespread and constitute a major public health risk. The present study thus aims to investigate the effect of a facial cosmetic self-massage daily routine on women's sleep and well-being.
Methods
The present pilot study was conducted on 62 middle-aged women declaring daily tiredness and sleep troubles. We examined the effect of a regular facial cosmetic self-massage routine on sleep patterns, daytime sleepiness, and well-being over the course of 2 months.
Results
After 1 and 2 months, our results show improved sleep quality (Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, PSQI – −20.2% after 2 months), reduced daytime sleepiness (Epworth Sleepiness Scale, ESS, −31.2% after 2 months), and increased well-being measures. The number of participants with abnormal sleep (PSQI >5) decreased over the course of the experiment as well, from 71.9% to 49.2% at the end of the 2 months [odds ratio 95% CI for decrease: 0.38 (0.18–0.81)]. Similarly, the number of participants with excessive daytime sleepiness (>10 on the ESS) decreased over the course of the study from 44.3% to 21% after 1 month [95% CI: 0.33 (0.15–0.73)] and to 16.1% after 2 months [95% CI: 0.24 (0.10–0.56)].
Conclusions
These results suggest that a facial cosmetic self-massage routine may improve sleep patterns and is likely to be a useful addition to a standard sleep hygiene routine.
{"title":"Evaluation of a daily facial massage on perceived sleep quality and well-being: A pilot study","authors":"Aurélie Porcheron, Julie Latreille, Fabien Sauvet, Marie-Héloise Bardel","doi":"10.1111/ics.12963","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12963","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Sleep disorders are widespread and constitute a major public health risk. The present study thus aims to investigate the effect of a facial cosmetic self-massage daily routine on women's sleep and well-being.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The present pilot study was conducted on 62 middle-aged women declaring daily tiredness and sleep troubles. We examined the effect of a regular facial cosmetic self-massage routine on sleep patterns, daytime sleepiness, and well-being over the course of 2 months.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>After 1 and 2 months, our results show improved sleep quality (Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, PSQI – −20.2% after 2 months), reduced daytime sleepiness (Epworth Sleepiness Scale, ESS, −31.2% after 2 months), and increased well-being measures. The number of participants with abnormal sleep (PSQI >5) decreased over the course of the experiment as well, from 71.9% to 49.2% at the end of the 2 months [odds ratio 95% CI for decrease: 0.38 (0.18–0.81)]. Similarly, the number of participants with excessive daytime sleepiness (>10 on the ESS) decreased over the course of the study from 44.3% to 21% after 1 month [95% CI: 0.33 (0.15–0.73)] and to 16.1% after 2 months [95% CI: 0.24 (0.10–0.56)].</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These results suggest that a facial cosmetic self-massage routine may improve sleep patterns and is likely to be a useful addition to a standard sleep hygiene routine.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"734-745"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12963","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140335536","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Susan L. Limbu, Talveen S. Purba, Matthew Harries, Rhia Kundu, Ranjit K. Bhogal, Ralf Paus
Objective
Dandruff is characterised by the presence of perivascular leukocytes and mild inflammation; however, the immune microenvironment of dandruff-affected scalp skin and the potential changes to the hair follicle's (HF) physiological immune privilege (HF IP) remain unknown. Here, we characterised the HF immune microenvironment and immune privilege status in dandruff-affected scalp skin.
Methods
We assessed relevant key parameters in healthy versus dandruff-affected human scalp biopsies using quantitative immunohistomorphometry, laser capture microdissection, and RNA sequencing.
Results
The number of epidermal CD4+ and CD8+ T cells was increased in lesional dandruff scalp skin, while the number of MHC class II+/CD1a+ Langerhans cells was decreased in the infundibulum. The number of intrafollicular and perifollicular CD4+ T cells and CD8+ T cells, perifollicular CD68+ macrophages, and tryptase+ mast cells remained unchanged. Interestingly, MHC class Ia and ß2-microglobulin protein expression were significantly increased specifically in the suprabulbar outer root sheath (ORS) compartment of dandruff-associated HFs. RNAseq analysis of laser capture micro-dissected suprabulbar ORS compartment revealed antigen presentation pathway as the top regulated canonical pathway, along with the upregulation of HF-IP genes such as HLA-C, HLA-DP, and TAP1, which are normally down-regulated in healthy HFs. Intrafollicular protein expression of known HF IP guardians (CD200 and α-MSH) and ‘danger signals’ (MICA and CXCL10) remained unaltered at the IP sites of dandruff lesional HFs compared to non-lesional and healthy HFs. Instead, the expression of macrophage migration inhibiting factor (MIF), another HF IP guardian, was reduced.
Conclusion
Together, this work shows that dandruff is associated with epidermal T-cell infiltration and a weakened HF IP in the suprabulbar ORS of HFs in dandruff lesional scalp.
目的：头皮屑的特征是血管周围存在白细胞和轻度炎症；然而，受头皮屑影响的头皮皮肤的免疫微环境以及毛囊（HF）生理免疫特权（HF IP）的潜在变化仍不为人知。在此，我们描述了受头皮屑影响的头皮皮肤的高频免疫微环境和免疫特权状态：方法：我们使用定量免疫组织形态测量法、激光捕获显微切割术和 RNA 测序法评估了健康头皮和受头皮屑影响的头皮活检组织中的相关关键参数：结果：在头皮屑病变的头皮皮肤中，表皮 CD4+ 和 CD8+ T 细胞的数量增加了，而皮下 MHC II+ /CD1a+ 朗格汉斯细胞的数量减少了。毛囊内和毛囊周围的 CD4+ T 细胞和 CD8+ T 细胞、毛囊周围的 CD68+ 巨噬细胞以及胰蛋白酶+ 肥大细胞的数量保持不变。有趣的是，MHC Ia类和ß2-微球蛋白蛋白的表达在头皮屑相关高频皮损的上皮层外根鞘（ORS）区明显增加。对激光捕获显微解剖的小叶上外根鞘区进行的 RNAseq 分析表明，抗原呈递通路是受调控最多的典型通路，HF-IP 基因（如 HLA-C、HLA-DP 和 TAP1）也同时上调，而这些基因在健康 HF 中通常是下调的。与非皮损性高频和健康高频相比，已知的高频 IP 监护因子（CD200 和 α-MSH）和 "危险信号"（MICA 和 CXCL10）在皮屑性皮损高频 IP 位点的小泡内蛋白表达没有变化。相反，巨噬细胞迁移抑制因子（MIF）（另一种高频 IP 监护因子）的表达却有所减少：总之，这项研究表明，头皮屑与表皮 T 细胞浸润有关，头皮屑病变头皮高频的上皮层 ORS 中的高频 IP 功能减弱。
{"title":"Dandruff lesional scalp skin exhibits epidermal T cell infiltration and a weakened hair follicle immune privilege","authors":"Susan L. Limbu, Talveen S. Purba, Matthew Harries, Rhia Kundu, Ranjit K. Bhogal, Ralf Paus","doi":"10.1111/ics.12956","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12956","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Dandruff is characterised by the presence of perivascular leukocytes and mild inflammation; however, the immune microenvironment of dandruff-affected scalp skin and the potential changes to the hair follicle's (HF) physiological immune privilege (HF IP) remain unknown. Here, we characterised the HF immune microenvironment and immune privilege status in dandruff-affected scalp skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We assessed relevant key parameters in healthy versus dandruff-affected human scalp biopsies using quantitative immunohistomorphometry, laser capture microdissection, and RNA sequencing.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The number of epidermal CD4<sup>+</sup> and CD8<sup>+</sup> T cells was increased in lesional dandruff scalp skin, while the number of MHC class II<sup>+</sup>/CD1a<sup>+</sup> Langerhans cells was decreased in the infundibulum. The number of intrafollicular and perifollicular CD4<sup>+</sup> T cells and CD8<sup>+</sup> T cells, perifollicular CD68<sup>+</sup> macrophages, and tryptase<sup>+</sup> mast cells remained unchanged. Interestingly, MHC class Ia and ß2-microglobulin protein expression were significantly increased specifically in the suprabulbar outer root sheath (ORS) compartment of dandruff-associated HFs. RNAseq analysis of laser capture micro-dissected suprabulbar ORS compartment revealed antigen presentation pathway as the top regulated canonical pathway, along with the upregulation of HF-IP genes such as HLA-C, HLA-DP, and TAP1, which are normally down-regulated in healthy HFs. Intrafollicular protein expression of known HF IP guardians (CD200 and α-MSH) and ‘danger signals’ (MICA and CXCL10) remained unaltered at the IP sites of dandruff lesional HFs compared to non-lesional and healthy HFs. Instead, the expression of macrophage migration inhibiting factor (MIF), another HF IP guardian, was reduced.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Together, this work shows that dandruff is associated with epidermal T-cell infiltration and a weakened HF IP in the suprabulbar ORS of HFs in dandruff lesional scalp.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"717-733"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12956","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140131284","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jose Bueno-Mancebo, Raquel Barrena, Adriana Artola, Teresa Gea, Deisi Altmajer-Vaz
Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by Bacillus species with excellent physical-chemical, and biological properties. Among innovative applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations. The antibacterial and anti-acne activities, as well as the anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics. Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products, and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms “cosmetic” and “surfactin” in their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December 2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105 patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions, skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%. Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits and minimizing the impact on the environment.
{"title":"Surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic industry: Benefits and trends","authors":"Jose Bueno-Mancebo, Raquel Barrena, Adriana Artola, Teresa Gea, Deisi Altmajer-Vaz","doi":"10.1111/ics.12957","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12957","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by <i>Bacillus</i> species with excellent physical-chemical, and biological properties. Among innovative applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations. The antibacterial and anti-acne activities, as well as the anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics. Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products, and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms “cosmetic” and “surfactin” in their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December 2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105 patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions, skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%. Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits and minimizing the impact on the environment.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"702-716"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-03-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12957","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140119423","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Chelsea Tan, Ke Peng, TianYong Lim, Jiaxin Liu, Yang Ye, Linda Lim, Pei Gao, John E. Oblong, TzeHau Lam
Objective
Erythema, characterized by the redness of the skin, is a common skin reaction triggered by various endogenous and exogenous factors. This response is often a result of the activation of underlying inflammatory mechanisms within the skin. The objective of this study is to investigate the potential benefits of applying a combination of skincare ingredients, namely allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (AB5D), in the modulation of inflammatory factors associated with erythema. Additionally, the study aims to elucidate the mechanisms by which these ingredients exert their combined actions to alleviate erythema-associated inflammation.
Methods
Human epidermal keratinocytes were exposed to UVB and subsequently treated with AB5D. Transcriptomics profiling was performed to analyse the dose–response effect of AB5D treatment on keratinocytes. The quantitation of inflammatory mediators, including PGE2, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1RA and TNFα, was performed on cultured media. Additionally, the oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) assay was carried out to evaluate the total antioxidant capacity of both individual ingredients and the AB5D combination. To assess the in-vitro antioxidant effects of AB5D against UVB-induced oxidative stress in hTERT keratinocytes, real-time quantitation of mitochondrial superoxide was measured through live-cell imaging.
Results
The application of AB5D to UVB-exposed keratinocytes downregulated gene sets associated with inflammatory responses, highlighting the anti-inflammatory properties of AB5D. Specifically, AB5D effectively reduced the production of PGE2, leading to the downregulation of inflammatory cytokines. Moreover, our findings indicate that AB5D exhibits antioxidative capabilities, functioning as both an antioxidant agent and a regulator of antioxidant enzyme expression to counteract the detrimental effects of cellular oxidative stress.
Conclusion
We demonstrated that AB5D can reduce UVB-induced PGE2, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1RA and TNFα as well as mitochondrial superoxide. These findings suggest that AB5D may alleviate erythema by modulating inflammation via PGE2 and through antioxidation mechanisms.
{"title":"The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes","authors":"Chelsea Tan, Ke Peng, TianYong Lim, Jiaxin Liu, Yang Ye, Linda Lim, Pei Gao, John E. Oblong, TzeHau Lam","doi":"10.1111/ics.12951","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12951","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Erythema, characterized by the redness of the skin, is a common skin reaction triggered by various endogenous and exogenous factors. This response is often a result of the activation of underlying inflammatory mechanisms within the skin. The objective of this study is to investigate the potential benefits of applying a combination of skincare ingredients, namely allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (AB5D), in the modulation of inflammatory factors associated with erythema. Additionally, the study aims to elucidate the mechanisms by which these ingredients exert their combined actions to alleviate erythema-associated inflammation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Human epidermal keratinocytes were exposed to UVB and subsequently treated with AB5D. Transcriptomics profiling was performed to analyse the dose–response effect of AB5D treatment on keratinocytes. The quantitation of inflammatory mediators, including PGE<sub>2</sub>, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1RA and TNFα, was performed on cultured media. Additionally, the oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) assay was carried out to evaluate the total antioxidant capacity of both individual ingredients and the AB5D combination. To assess the in-vitro antioxidant effects of AB5D against UVB-induced oxidative stress in hTERT keratinocytes, real-time quantitation of mitochondrial superoxide was measured through live-cell imaging.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The application of AB5D to UVB-exposed keratinocytes downregulated gene sets associated with inflammatory responses, highlighting the anti-inflammatory properties of AB5D. Specifically, AB5D effectively reduced the production of PGE<sub>2</sub>, leading to the downregulation of inflammatory cytokines. Moreover, our findings indicate that AB5D exhibits antioxidative capabilities, functioning as both an antioxidant agent and a regulator of antioxidant enzyme expression to counteract the detrimental effects of cellular oxidative stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We demonstrated that AB5D can reduce UVB-induced PGE<sub>2</sub>, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1RA and TNFα as well as mitochondrial superoxide. These findings suggest that AB5D may alleviate erythema by modulating inflammation via PGE<sub>2</sub> and through antioxidation mechanisms.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"691-701"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-03-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12951","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140021675","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The structure of elastic fibres changes with ageing. Elastin microfibril interface–located protein 1 (EMILIN-1) is known to contribute to structural changes in elastic fibres. EMILIN-1 is one of the components of elastic fibres and also colocalizes with oxytalan fibres near the epidermis. Therefore, EMILIN-1 may be affected by epidermal–dermal interactions. The purpose of this study is to identify the key factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions during the structural degeneration of elastic fibres.
Methods
Keratinocytes and fibroblasts were co-cultured, and changes in elastic fibre-related proteins were evaluated. Additionally, cytokine arrays were used to identify the factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions.
Results
EMILIN-1 expression in fibroblasts was increased in the presence of keratinocytes, and its expression decreased when keratinocytes were stressed. Amphiregulin (AREG) and interleukin-1α (IL-1α) were identified as the keratinocyte-derived cytokines that influence the production of EMILIN-1, which is secreted by the fibroblasts. EMILIN-1 expression was promoted by AREG and decreased by IL-1α via an increase in cathepsin K (a catabolic enzyme). AREG and IL-1α were associated with changes in EMILIN-1 levels in fibroblasts.
Conclusion
The findings suggest that the suppression of IL-1α expression and promotion of AREG expression in the epidermis could be a new approach that prevents the wrinkles and sagging caused by the structural changes in elastic fibres.
{"title":"Elastin microfibril interface-located protein 1 in fibroblasts is regulated by amphiregulin and interleukin-1α produced by keratinocytes","authors":"Shinya Kondo, Soichiro Shiga, Tetsuhito Sakurai","doi":"10.1111/ics.12947","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12947","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The structure of elastic fibres changes with ageing. Elastin microfibril interface–located protein 1 (EMILIN-1) is known to contribute to structural changes in elastic fibres. EMILIN-1 is one of the components of elastic fibres and also colocalizes with oxytalan fibres near the epidermis. Therefore, EMILIN-1 may be affected by epidermal–dermal interactions. The purpose of this study is to identify the key factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions during the structural degeneration of elastic fibres.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Keratinocytes and fibroblasts were co-cultured, and changes in elastic fibre-related proteins were evaluated. Additionally, cytokine arrays were used to identify the factors involved in epidermal–dermal interactions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>EMILIN-1 expression in fibroblasts was increased in the presence of keratinocytes, and its expression decreased when keratinocytes were stressed. Amphiregulin (AREG) and interleukin-1α (IL-1α) were identified as the keratinocyte-derived cytokines that influence the production of EMILIN-1, which is secreted by the fibroblasts. EMILIN-1 expression was promoted by AREG and decreased by IL-1α via an increase in cathepsin K (a catabolic enzyme). AREG and IL-1α were associated with changes in EMILIN-1 levels in fibroblasts.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The findings suggest that the suppression of IL-1α expression and promotion of AREG expression in the epidermis could be a new approach that prevents the wrinkles and sagging caused by the structural changes in elastic fibres.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"680-690"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-02-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139735137","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Nelly Frossard, Alexandra Coïc, Thibaut Saguet, Alain Coïc, Franck Himbert, Quoc Tuan Do, Jean-Luc Galzi, Carey Suehs, Gerald Guillaumet, Pascal Bonnet, Philippe Bernard
Background
Atopic dermatitis has a marked economic impact and affects the quality of life. A cosmetic compound with an innovative strategy is proposed here as a small chemical neutraligand, GPN279 (previously identified as a theophylline derivative), that binds and potently neutralizes the TARC/CCL17 chemokine, activating the Th2 cell-expressed CCR4 receptor.
Objective
Our objective was to evaluate the safety and activity of topically applied GPN279 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel group trial. Such cosmetic active ingredient targeting dry skin with an atopic tendency would open a parallel strategy to the pharmaceutical approach, in particular for mild to moderate subjects, as an alternative to reduce the evolution towards severe forms of atopy.
Methods
This 4-week trial included adults with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis, according to the SCORAD index. Patients were randomized into two groups treated by topical applications of either an emulsion containing 0.44% GPN279 in placebo on skin lesions or the placebo (4.56% glycerin). Clinical activity was evaluated with the SCORAD as the primary objective. As secondary objectives, POEM, erythema, skin moisturization, its barrier function (TEWL) and safety were evaluated.
Results
Twenty-one patients in each group completed the study. SCORAD was significantly improved in the GPN279 group vs. placebo. GPN279 also significantly improved POEM, induced a rapid and significant decrease of erythema, and improved skin moisture. GPN279 and placebo were well tolerated throughout the study.
Conclusion
A cosmetic cream comprising the CCL17 neutraligand GPN279 improved the skin barrier and physiology criteria in patients with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis.
{"title":"Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled cosmetic trial of a topical first-in-class Neutraligand targeting the chemokine TARC/CCL17 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis","authors":"Nelly Frossard, Alexandra Coïc, Thibaut Saguet, Alain Coïc, Franck Himbert, Quoc Tuan Do, Jean-Luc Galzi, Carey Suehs, Gerald Guillaumet, Pascal Bonnet, Philippe Bernard","doi":"10.1111/ics.12948","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12948","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Atopic dermatitis has a marked economic impact and affects the quality of life. A cosmetic compound with an innovative strategy is proposed here as a small chemical neutraligand, GPN279 (previously identified as a theophylline derivative), that binds and potently neutralizes the TARC/CCL17 chemokine, activating the Th2 cell-expressed CCR4 receptor.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our objective was to evaluate the safety and activity of topically applied GPN279 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel group trial. Such cosmetic active ingredient targeting dry skin with an atopic tendency would open a parallel strategy to the pharmaceutical approach, in particular for mild to moderate subjects, as an alternative to reduce the evolution towards severe forms of atopy.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This 4-week trial included adults with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis, according to the SCORAD index. Patients were randomized into two groups treated by topical applications of either an emulsion containing 0.44% GPN279 in placebo on skin lesions or the placebo (4.56% glycerin). Clinical activity was evaluated with the SCORAD as the primary objective. As secondary objectives, POEM, erythema, skin moisturization, its barrier function (TEWL) and safety were evaluated.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Twenty-one patients in each group completed the study. SCORAD was significantly improved in the GPN279 group vs. placebo. GPN279 also significantly improved POEM, induced a rapid and significant decrease of erythema, and improved skin moisture. GPN279 and placebo were well tolerated throughout the study.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A cosmetic cream comprising the CCL17 neutraligand GPN279 improved the skin barrier and physiology criteria in patients with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"468-477"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-02-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139702481","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jiaqi Zhang, Yi Zhou, Fangni Zhou, Xiang Li, Ying Lu, Fan Wu, Yuqing Han, Qi Liu, Sisi Chang, Wenjing Zhu, Bing Li, Yao Pan
Background
Skin type has a strong influence on how sensitive skin develops, with oily skin accounting for a larger proportion of sensitive skin. However, there has not been a scientifically sound questionnaire for determining oily sensitive (OS)-type skin in prior studies.
Objectives
In order to identify OS-type skin in the general population, we therefore intend to create an OS-type skin evaluation questionnaire, develop various thresholds through data analysis and classify skin based on two dimensions of sensitivity and oiliness.
Methods
A questionnaire with questions regarding subjects' basic information, skin oiliness and skin sensitivity was given to each individual who participated in the study (n = 1297). To define the thresholds for OS-type skin, receiver-operating characteristic (ROC) curves were generated. The results of the lactic acid stinging test (LAST) and noninvasive instrument information obtained were compared with the thresholds mentioned above to verify the effectiveness of this tool.
Results
According to the ROC curves, questionnaire cut-off values of 11.5, 20.5 and 29.5 can be used to detect mildly, moderately and severely sensitive skin, respectively. In addition, the questionnaire cut-off values of 22.5 and 31.5 can be used to detect moderately and severely oily skin, respectively. According to our study, the four sensitive-skin groups' LAST scores differed significantly from one another, while the skin sebum levels differed significantly between the three oily groups. Additionally, the EI and LAST scores were significantly correlated with skin sensitivity levels, whereas sebum, moisture and EI were positively correlated with skin oiliness levels.
Conclusions
We developed an OS-type skin evaluation questionnaire that has been tested and shown scientifically to be a promising method for evaluating OS-type skin and to completely examine the traits of sensitive and oily skin.
背景：皮肤类型对敏感性皮肤的形成有很大影响，油性皮肤在敏感性皮肤中所占比例较大。然而，在以往的研究中，还没有一份科学合理的问卷来确定油性敏感（OS）型皮肤：因此，为了在普通人群中识别油性敏感型皮肤，我们打算制作一份油性敏感型皮肤评估问卷，通过数据分析制定各种阈值，并根据敏感度和油性度两个维度对皮肤进行分类：方法：向每位参与研究的受试者（n = 1297）发放一份调查问卷，内容包括受试者的基本信息、皮肤油腻程度和皮肤敏感度。为确定 OS 型皮肤的阈值，生成了接收器操作特征曲线（ROC）。将乳酸刺痛试验（LAST）的结果和无创仪器获得的信息与上述阈值进行比较，以验证该工具的有效性：根据 ROC 曲线，11.5、20.5 和 29.5 的问卷临界值可分别用于检测轻度、中度和重度敏感皮肤。此外，22.5 和 31.5 的问卷临界值分别可用于检测中度和重度油性皮肤。根据我们的研究，四个敏感皮肤组的 LAST 分数之间存在显著差异，而三个油性皮肤组的皮脂水平之间存在显著差异。此外，EI 和 LAST 分数与皮肤敏感程度呈显著相关，而皮脂、水分和 EI 则与皮肤油腻程度呈正相关：我们开发的 OS 型皮肤评估问卷已经过测试，科学证明它是一种很有前途的评估 OS 型皮肤的方法，可以全面考察敏感性皮肤和油性皮肤的特征。
{"title":"Development and validation of a prospective questionnaire for assessing oily sensitive skin","authors":"Jiaqi Zhang, Yi Zhou, Fangni Zhou, Xiang Li, Ying Lu, Fan Wu, Yuqing Han, Qi Liu, Sisi Chang, Wenjing Zhu, Bing Li, Yao Pan","doi":"10.1111/ics.12946","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12946","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Skin type has a strong influence on how sensitive skin develops, with oily skin accounting for a larger proportion of sensitive skin. However, there has not been a scientifically sound questionnaire for determining oily sensitive (OS)-type skin in prior studies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In order to identify OS-type skin in the general population, we therefore intend to create an OS-type skin evaluation questionnaire, develop various thresholds through data analysis and classify skin based on two dimensions of sensitivity and oiliness.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A questionnaire with questions regarding subjects' basic information, skin oiliness and skin sensitivity was given to each individual who participated in the study (<i>n</i> = 1297). To define the thresholds for OS-type skin, receiver-operating characteristic (ROC) curves were generated. The results of the lactic acid stinging test (LAST) and noninvasive instrument information obtained were compared with the thresholds mentioned above to verify the effectiveness of this tool.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>According to the ROC curves, questionnaire cut-off values of 11.5, 20.5 and 29.5 can be used to detect mildly, moderately and severely sensitive skin, respectively. In addition, the questionnaire cut-off values of 22.5 and 31.5 can be used to detect moderately and severely oily skin, respectively. According to our study, the four sensitive-skin groups' LAST scores differed significantly from one another, while the skin sebum levels differed significantly between the three oily groups. Additionally, the EI and LAST scores were significantly correlated with skin sensitivity levels, whereas sebum, moisture and EI were positively correlated with skin oiliness levels.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We developed an OS-type skin evaluation questionnaire that has been tested and shown scientifically to be a promising method for evaluating OS-type skin and to completely examine the traits of sensitive and oily skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"657-667"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-02-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139702479","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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