Journal of cosmetic science最新文献

Skin aging/photoaging is associated with altered the structure of collagen and elastin fibers, and increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) and elastase. Nicotinamide and its derivatives, 2,6-dihydroxynicotinamide, 2,4,5,6-tetrahydroxynicotinamide, and 3-hydroxypicolinamide (collectively niacin derivatives) stimulate fibrillar collagen and heat shock proteins in dermal fibroblasts. The goal of this research was to extend the understanding of the anti-skin aging mechanism of these niacin derivatives through the stimulation of elastin (at the protein and promoter levels), fibrillin (1 and 2) in nonirradiated or ultraviolet (UVA) radiated dermal fibroblasts, and through the direct inhibition of MMP (1, 3, and 9) and elastase activities. UVA radiation stimulated elastin and inhibited fibrillin-1 and fibrillin-2 in dermal fibroblasts. The niacin derivatives significantly stimulated the expression of elastin (transcriptionally), fibrillin-1 and fibrillin-2 in nonirradiated and UVA radiated fibroblasts, and directly inhibited MMP or elastase activity. Overall, the niacin derivatives, more so nicotinamide and 2,6-dihydroxynicotinamide, have anti-skin aging potential through the stimulation of elastin and fibrillin, and the direct inhibition of the extracellular matrix proteolytic enzymes.

A 12-day cumulative irritancy patch test is available for predicting skin irritation potential. This study is important to determine the ideal patch type to be used in the irritancy patch test. This study was conducted to determine the cumulative skin irritation potential of five different patch types using predictive patch test techniques. Five types of patches were tested in a 12 day repeated insult test. The patch types were Hill Top Chamber occlusive, Finn Chamber occlusive, Band-Aid semiocclusive, Webril^® semiocclusive, and Webril^® occlusive. The test materials applied to the patches were cream, lotion, 2% bath cream, and controls of 1% sodium lauryl sulfate (1% SLS), respectively. A dermatologist performed the grading. The test results revealed that with cream, the cumulative scores of Hill Top Chamber occlusive, Finn Chamber occlusive, Band-Aid semiocclusive, Webril^® semiocclusive, and Webril^® occlusive were 22, 27, 16, 9, and 21, respectively; with lotion, the cumulative scores were 192, 200, 192, 200, and 70, respectively; with 2% bath cream, the cumulative scores were 523, 306, 523, 306, and 506, respectively; with 1% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution, the cumulative scores were 792, 801, 753, 526, and 841, respectively. Comparison of the five different patch types revealed that Webril^® semiocclusive had the lowest cumulative irritation scores and incidence of adverse reactions. Comparison of the three test materials revealed that cream was the mildest material with the lowest cumulative irritation scores.

This paper describes experimental evaluations of an optical scanning device for skin surface recovery using multiple light source photometric stereo method. The portable optical device based on the principle of six-light photometric stereo was developed and subjected to evaluation and advancement through clinical trials for the purpose of monitoring skin conditions. As the device can provide objective topographic data for the description of the skin surface condition, the evaluation processes are mainly applied on skin in vitro and in vivo and compared with a commercial product, PRIMOS, which has been so far considered as a standard device used for skin surface measurement. The results of the experiment show that the topography measured by the device is significantly closer to that of the ground truth. Meanwhile, the new optical scanning device demonstrates better performance in measuring skin surface in vivo, superior to that of the PRIMOS.

Asian scalp hair fibers were made thin by treatment with papain or sliced along the longitudinal axis or randomly cut by mechanical means. Optical microscopic observations of the resulting specimens indicated that (i) the medulla (M) consisted of two types of the M-surrounding cells which were linearly linked one another to form a tubular structure running through the fiber and (ii) the drum-shaped vesicles containing small proteinous granules were neatly or sparsely stored within the tube. On the other hand, H⁺ and OH^- ions were able to move spontaneously from one end to another through the M tube. Large molecules such as an anthocyanin dye (from purple sweet potato) were also capable of flowing through the M tube, especially rapidly when DC voltage was applied between the two ends of the hair fiber. The possible function of the M is briefly discussed in conjunction with the tubular structure and the material flow property.

There are currently two methods to evaluate comedogenecity. One is the inexpensive human model developed by Mills and Kligman and modified by others. The second is the more costly human clinical trial, which is the gold standard for comedogenesis and to which the human model is compared. The qualification of each method to support the comedogenecity claim is evaluated and contrasted.

As soon as they are exposed to the environment, cosmetics become contaminated with microorganisms, and this contamination accumulates with increased use. In this study, we employed pyrosequencing to investigate the diversity of bacteria found on lipstick. Bacterial DNA was extracted from 20 lipstick samples and mixed in equal ratios for pyrosequencing analysis. As a result, 105 bacterial genera were detected, four of which (Leifsonia, Methylobacterium, Streptococcus, and Haemophilus) were predominant in 92% of the 19,863 total sequence reads. Potentially pathogenic genera such as Staphylococcus, Pseudomonas, Escherichia, Salmonella, Corynebacterium, Mycobacterium, and Neisseria accounted for 27.6% of the 105 genera. The most commonly identified oral bacteria belonged to the Streptococcus genus, although other oral genera such as Actinomyces, Fusobacterium, Porphyromonas, and Lactobacillus were also detected.

Artocarpus altilis heartwood extract contains the bioactive compound artocarpin which exhibits melanogenesis inhibitory activity. However, the extract has poor solubility which affects the skin permeability of the compound. A chitosan hydrogel patch incorporating A. altilis heartwood extract was formulated to enhance the delivery of an amount of artocarpin sufficient for depigmenting the skin. The extract was prepared as an o/w microemulsion before blending with an aqueous solution of chitosan. The hydrogel patch was formulated by blending in a 1:1 ratio by weight of 4% w/w chitosan solution and 0.04% w/w extract microemulsion which provides optimal values of the mechanical properties of the patch. The release of artocarpin from the formulated patch (artocarpin content, 0.07 mg/cm²) exhibited two phases; the rapid rate (0-15 min) averaged 0.73 µg/min/mm², and the slow rate (15-240 min) averaged 0.02 µg/min/mm². The formulated patches significantly improved the hyperpigmented area of the subjects after 3 weeks of application. No adverse events were observed. The results indicate that the formulated chitosan hydrogel patch delivers an effective amount of incorporated artocarpin depigmenting action.

Sorghum [Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench] is a major cereal crop. Despite the wide cultivation of sorghum, its stalks are used as hay and silage. The plant has numerous bioactive compounds including cosmeceutical ingredients. Thus, we investigated the antimelanogenic and SSE that is prepared from the stalk of Sorghum bicolor L. (SSE) after ethanol (EtOH) extraction. Based on the antioxidant capacity, antityrosinase activity, and suppression of the protein expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, -2, and -3 in human neonatal foreskin HDF-N cells, a 50% EtOH extraction of SSEs showed antimelanogenic and antiwrinkle potential. To enrich the cosmeceutical potential of SSE, a fermentation process was applied to SSE with the use of the fungus Aspergillus oryzae NK ( f SSE). On additional fermentation, the cosmeceutical potential of SSE increased with further enhancement of antityrosinase activity and suppression of MMP-1, -2, and -3 protein expression. SSE contains p-coumaric acid, and its level was enriched by the fermentation process. Collectively, SSE and its fermented product can serve as good ingredients in new cosmeceutical compounds.