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Frugality, style longevity and garment repair – environmental attitudes and consumption behaviour amongst young Canadian fashion consumers 节俭,风格长寿和服装修理-环境态度和消费行为在年轻的加拿大时尚消费者
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-05-05 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2072958
R. McQueen, L. McNeill, Anika Kozlowski, Ayesha Jain
ABSTRACT As awareness grows of the detrimental environmental impacts of the fashion industry, an increasing number of consumers are indicating a willingness to consume more sustainably. Part of sustainable clothing consumption includes extending clothing life through repair of worn or damaged garments. Younger consumers are an important demographic who consume and dispose of the majority of fashion garments. This study examined the influence of environmental awareness, frugality, style longevity and quality consciousness on garment repair by young consumers. A survey was conducted using established scales. Hypotheses were tested using a structural equation model. Environmental awareness, frugality and quality consciousness directly influenced garment repair. However, style longevity did not directly influence repair. Style longevity may indirectly influence repair through quality consciousness, as consumers seeking long-lasting quality clothing are more likely to engage in repair. This study contributes to the emerging literature that seeks to understand the consumers’ behaviours that prolong clothing life.
随着人们对时尚产业对环境有害影响的意识日益增强,越来越多的消费者表示愿意进行更可持续的消费。可持续服装消费的一部分包括通过修复磨损或损坏的服装来延长服装的使用寿命。年轻消费者是消费和处理大多数时尚服装的重要人群。本研究考察了年轻消费者的环保意识、节俭意识、款式寿命意识和质量意识对服装修补的影响。使用既定的量表进行了一项调查。采用结构方程模型对假设进行检验。环保意识、节俭意识和质量意识直接影响着服装修补。然而,样式寿命并不直接影响修复。款式的寿命可能通过质量意识间接影响修复,因为追求耐用的高质量服装的消费者更有可能参与修复。这项研究有助于新兴的文献,旨在了解消费者的行为,延长服装的寿命。
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引用次数: 5
Microfoundations of dynamic capabilities: experiences of apparel product developers 动态能力的微观基础:服装产品开发者的经验
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-05-05 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2071467
Meegan Feori-Payne, E. McKinney
ABSTRACT The purpose of this paper was to explore apparel product developers’ experiences with microfoundations of dynamic capabilities while at work. A phenomenological qualitative approach was pursued to complete in-depth interviews and analyze the data. Apparel product developers were interviewed because literature supports that product development constitutes a dynamic capability. The findings of this study propose a conceptual framework that explains the experiences of apparel product developers with the microfoundations dynamic capabilities. The conceptual framework illustrates inhibitors, facilitators, and occurrences of the microfoundations for apparel product developers and can facilitate strategic and innovative decisions for firms and inform academic programmes. This study offers new insight into the microfoundations of dynamic capabilities from the perspectives and experiences of apparel product developers. It also proposes that non-managerial personnel can initiate and complete the microfoundations of dynamic capabilities: Sensing, seizing, and reconfiguring.
摘要本文旨在探讨服装产品开发人员在工作中运用动态能力微观基础的经验。采用现象学定性方法完成深度访谈并分析数据。对服装产品开发人员进行了访谈,因为文献支持产品开发构成动态能力。本研究的结果提出了一个概念框架来解释服装产品开发人员的微观基础动态能力的经验。概念框架说明了服装产品开发人员的阻碍因素、促进因素和微观基础的发生,可以促进公司的战略和创新决策,并为学术课程提供信息。本研究从服装产品开发业者的角度与经验,提供对动态能力微观基础的新见解。非管理人员也可以发起和完成动态能力的微观基础:感知、把握和重新配置。
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引用次数: 0
Digital fashion innovations for the real world and metaverse 现实世界和虚拟世界的数字时尚创新
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2071139
A. Sayem
The aim of digitalising the fashion industry was to streamline the design, production and business of physical products for the real world and to achieve sustainability with the help of different digital tools. However, with the recent emergence of the metaverse, the parallel world in virtual reality, a new horizon of digital fashion has been opened. In general, the innovations in digital fashion can be clustered into the following four themes – (1) Digital design and e-prototyping, (2) Digital business and promotion, (3) Digital human and metaverse, and (4) Digital apparel and smart e-technology (Figure 1). This special issue presents eight research articles and two reviews covering the first two themes of digital fashion innovations – (1) Digital design and e-prototyping and (2) Digital business and promotion. Computer-aided design (CAD) is among the first few digital elements entered into the fashion industry and education. There are many CAD systems for two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) design development that are being used in the industry today (Sayem, Kennon, & Clarke, 2010). Traditionally, the face-to-face teaching approach has been most effective for teaching these CAD software packages in academic set-ups. However, the COVID-19 pandemic forced us to move to a virtual mode of teaching across the world for the most of 2020 and 2021. Likewise, the tutors of fashion CAD had to adopt the new normal quickly and deliver the practical teaching elements of CAD over the online platforms, such as Zoom, MS Teams and Google Meet, etc. Lee (2021) looked into the effectiveness of online fashion CAD teaching in South Korea during the pandemic. They compared the grades and results of two groups of fashion CAD students: one group was taught 2D CAD systems offline in 2019, and the other group was taught the same systems online in 2020. Their finding is promising, and it shows that higher scores and grades were achieved by the online-taught students than the offline-taught cohorts. Although we do not have readily available similar studies from other countries to compare the finding, Lee’s (2021) study will give some confidence to the employers and educators about the knowledge and skills gained by students taught remotely during the pandemic. Pattern cutting is the first technical step in the apparel manufacturing process that starts materialising a design into a real wearable product in a set of technical drawings. In a mass production scenario, the pattern pieces of multiple sizes of same style of a garment are arranged into a rectangular area, known as a marker, matching the dimension of the cutting table and fabric width. The pattern cutting process, including marker making, is one of the most labour-intensive and least efficient processes in terms of waste generation within the fashion design and development cycle and is responsible for an average of fifteen percent fabric wastage (Ramkalaon and Sayem 2020). ElShishtawy, Sinha, and Benne
时尚产业数字化的目的是简化现实世界中实体产品的设计、生产和业务,并借助不同的数字工具实现可持续发展。然而,随着最近虚拟现实中的平行世界——虚拟世界的出现,数字时尚的新视野已经打开。一般来说,数字时尚的创新可以分为以下四个主题:(1)数字设计和电子原型,(2)数字商业和推广,(3)数字人类和虚拟世界,以及(4)数字服装和智能电子技术(图1)。本期特刊提供了八篇研究文章和两篇综述,涵盖了数字时尚创新的前两个主题(1)数字设计和电子原型和(2)数字商业和推广。计算机辅助设计(CAD)是最早进入时尚产业和教育的几个数字元素之一。目前有许多用于二维(2D)和三维(3D)设计开发的CAD系统正在行业中使用(Sayem, Kennon, & Clarke, 2010)。传统上,面对面的教学方法对于在学术设置中教授这些CAD软件包是最有效的。然而,2019冠状病毒病大流行迫使我们在2020年和2021年的大部分时间里在全球范围内采用虚拟教学模式。同样,时装CAD的导师们也必须迅速适应新常态,通过Zoom、MS Teams、Google Meet等在线平台,传递CAD的实践教学元素。Lee(2021)研究了疫情期间韩国在线时尚CAD教学的有效性。他们比较了两组时装CAD学生的成绩和结果:一组在2019年离线学习2D CAD系统,另一组在2020年在线学习相同的系统。他们的发现很有希望,它表明在线教学的学生比离线教学的学生取得了更高的分数和成绩。虽然我们没有其他国家的类似研究来比较这一发现,但Lee(2021)的研究将使雇主和教育工作者对大流行期间远程教学的学生获得的知识和技能有一定的信心。图案裁剪是服装制造过程中的第一个技术步骤,它开始将设计变成一套技术图纸中真正可穿戴的产品。在批量生产场景中,同一款服装的多个尺寸的图案片被排列成一个矩形区域,称为标记,与裁剪台的尺寸和织物宽度相匹配。就服装设计和开发周期中产生的废物而言,包括标记制作在内的图案切割过程是劳动强度最高、效率最低的过程之一,平均造成15%的织物浪费(Ramkalaon和Sayem 2020)。ElShishtawy, Sinha和Bennell(2021)回顾了关于切割问题和零浪费设计思维的计算方法所做的工作。他们强调了Ramkalaon和Sayem(2020)以及Weng和Kuo(2011)对CAD技术在零浪费标记生成中的应用,并强调了切割和包装(C&P)运运学和零浪费时装设计(ZWFD)领域之间合作的重要性。ElShishtawy等人(2021)的这篇综述文章首次报道了C&P和ZWFD的研究,在时尚和计算机学科的学者和研究人员中引发了新的研究思路。cyborg(半机械人)是cybernetic(控制论)和organism(有机体)的合成词,由Clynes和Kline(1960年)首次提出,指通过整合任何人工成分或技术而增强能力的有机体。后来,Haraway(1985)在她的“半机械人宣言”中将依赖技术的人类描述为半机械人的现有版本。Särmäkari和Vänskä(2021)在本期特刊中发表的文章将未来的时装设计师定义为半机械人,并提出了“半机械人设计师4.0”的概念,该概念指的是物理和数字工匠,通过对两个案例研究的分析-一个是涉及机器学习的生成服装设计,另一个是人工智能(AI)辅助时装草图。它们很好地呼应了区块链技术的脚步,尤其是不可替代代币(nft),将纯数字服装的设计和开发作为可交易资产,并为教育工作者和行业领导者提供了极好的思考食物,以找出未来时装设计师的结构。三维(3D)打印技术是一种将数字实体有效地转换为物理实体的直接方法。
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引用次数: 23
Effect of action learning on digital storytelling education for fashion students 行动学习对时装专业学生数字化叙事教育的影响
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-04-13 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2059577
Sejin Kim
ABSTRACT Digital moving images and storytelling method are increasingly used for fashion presentation in the digital media environment. However, there has been a lack of the education for fashion students. This study aims at considering action learning as an effective learning method for fashion students who specially are unfamiliar with digital film making. A three-unit teaching plan based on an action learning curriculum for digital fashion film production education was designed and its teaching method applied to practicum classes. The result reflected that the education had a potential to improve the expression ability of fashion design. The application of the action learning method for non-practical fashion students is shown to achieve the following: (1) A high learning effect for a limited time in acquiring the new programme required in the practicum class. (2) Efficiency in developing rich research and ideas from various perspectives, (3) Strengthening responsibility. (4) Improving problem-solving ability.
在数字媒体环境下,数字动态图像和叙事方法越来越多地用于时尚展示。然而,一直缺乏对时尚专业学生的教育。本研究旨在考虑行动学习作为一种有效的学习方法,特别是对数字电影制作不熟悉的时装专业学生。设计了基于行动学习课程的数字时尚电影制作教育三单元教学方案,并将其教学方法应用于实习课。结果表明,该教育具有提高服装设计表达能力的潜力。将行动学习方法应用于非实践性时装学生,可以达到以下效果:(1)在有限的时间内获得实习课程所需的新课程的高学习效果。(2)从不同角度开展丰富的研究和思想;(3)强化责任。(4)提高解决问题的能力。
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引用次数: 0
Body image of male college athletes: the role of uniforms and socio-cultural ideals on the perceptions of body image 大学男运动员的身体形象:制服和社会文化理想对身体形象认知的作用
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-03-29 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2056641
Kristian Hogans, Yoo‐Kyoung Seock
ABSTRACT This study explored male athletes’ body image perceptions and how sociocultural influences and athletic uniforms may contribute to their perception. An open-ended survey was used to gather information from 75 current and former football athletes. Study results showed that athletes perceive inconsistencies between their own bodies and the ‘ideal’ male body, that sociocultural images and comments from others strongly influence athletes’ perceptions of their bodies, and that football athletic uniforms also affect athletes’ body images. This study contributes to an under-investigated area of research concerning male athletes and body image. The researchers discussed the body image issues male athletes face and offered suggestions for more inclusive athletic uniform marketing and athletic programs.
摘要本研究探讨了男性运动员的身体形象感知,以及社会文化影响和运动服如何影响他们的身体形象感知。一项开放式调查收集了75名现任和前任足球运动员的信息。研究结果表明,运动员认为自己的身体与“理想”男性身体之间存在不一致之处,社会文化形象和他人的评论强烈影响运动员对自己身体的看法,足球运动服也影响运动员的身体形象。本研究为男性运动员和身体形象的研究领域做出了贡献。研究人员讨论了男性运动员面临的身体形象问题,并为更具包容性的运动制服营销和运动项目提供了建议。
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引用次数: 3
Codesigning a ballistic body armour with an industry partner and local police officers: focused on improving ergonomic fit and comfort 与行业合作伙伴和当地警察共同设计弹道防弹衣:专注于提高人体工程学的合身性和舒适性
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-03-13 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2049898
B. Conroy, Juyeon Park
ABSTRACT We aimed to identify fit and comfort issues associated with the case company’s body armour and suggest recommendations to mitigate the issues, guided by the integrated three-stage process model for codesign. Thirteen collaborators participated in the codesign practice, including eight company employees (ICs) and five local police officers (ECs). This study adopted one-on-one interviews, focus groups, 3D body scanning and occupational task assessment. In Stage 1, we identified the problems with the existing body armour and areas of improvement based on the inputs from the ICs and ECs. The design solutions for the defined needs were sought in Stage 2. In Stage 3, the final outcomes were validated and approved by the collaborators. The results from this study provided the case company practical guidance to improve the body armour design, and further offer a new means of involving diverse stakeholders’ voices and perspectives in the product design and development process.
摘要:我们旨在识别与案例公司防弹衣相关的合身和舒适问题,并在协同设计的集成三阶段过程模型的指导下提出缓解问题的建议。13名合作者参与了共同设计实践,包括8名公司员工(ic)和5名当地警察(ECs)。本研究采用一对一访谈、焦点小组、三维身体扫描、职业任务评估等方法。在第一阶段,我们根据集成系统和集成系统的意见,确定了现有防弹衣的问题和需要改进的地方。在第2阶段为已定义的需求寻求设计解决方案。在第三阶段,最终结果由合作者验证和批准。本研究的结果为案例公司改进防弹衣设计提供了实践指导,并进一步为在产品设计开发过程中吸收不同利益相关者的声音和观点提供了一种新的手段。
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引用次数: 2
Influence of motivational orientations on consumers’ adoption of virtual fitting rooms (VFRs): moderating effects of fashion leadership and technology visibility 动机导向对消费者虚拟试衣间采用的影响:时尚领导和技术能见度的调节作用
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-03-06 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2048423
Hanna Lee, Yingjiao Xu
ABSTRACT Virtual fitting rooms (VFRs) provide consumers with a fitting experience comparable to in-store fitting. However, despite the great potential of VFRs, their adoption is still in the preliminary stage. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between consumers’ motivational orientations, perceptions, and their adoption intentions toward VFRs. Additionally, the moderating effects of fashion leadership and technology visibility were examined. Data were collected from 324 Korean consumers and analysed using structural equation modelling as well as multi-group comparisons. The results reveal that respective motivational orientations exerted significant influence on consumers’ perceived functional and experiential values toward VFRs, which, in turn, had a positive influence on their adoption intention. Results also suggest that fashion leadership and technology visibility moderated the importance of rendering functional and experiential features of VFRs in increasing consumer adoption of VFRs.
虚拟试衣间(Virtual试衣间,简称VFRs)为消费者提供了与实体店试衣间相当的试衣间体验。然而,尽管虚拟录像机潜力巨大,但其采用仍处于初步阶段。摘要本研究旨在探讨消费者的动机取向、认知与虚拟家居的采用意向之间的关系。此外,我们还考察了时尚领导和技术知名度的调节作用。从324名韩国消费者中收集数据,并使用结构方程模型和多组比较进行分析。结果表明,动机取向对虚拟家庭用品的功能价值和体验价值产生显著影响,进而对虚拟家庭用品的采用意愿产生正向影响。结果还表明,时尚领导和技术可见性调节了vr的功能和体验特征在提高消费者对vr的采用方面的重要性。
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引用次数: 3
The decision to sew: making face masks during the COVID-19 pandemic 缝制的决定:在COVID-19大流行期间制作口罩
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-03-02 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2043944
G. Hustvedt, Yu-cheng Liang
ABSTRACT The COVID-19 pandemic provides an opportunity to understand the motivations of individuals who sew face masks. This study uses an expanded Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) model with data (n =  144) from a nationwide (United States) survey in late 2020. Data were analyzed with exploratory and confirmatory factor analysis, structural equation modelling, and multi-group comparison. Results indicated intention to sew face masks was predicted by subjective norm, perceived behaviour control, health consciousness, and fashion innovativeness. Making intention positively influenced individuals’ actual mask sewing behaviour. The relationship between making intention and actual behaviour is moderated by employment status and age.
2019冠状病毒病大流行为了解缝制口罩的个人动机提供了机会。本研究使用了扩展的计划行为理论(TPB)模型,其数据(n = 144)来自2020年底的一项全国性(美国)调查。数据分析采用探索性和验证性因子分析、结构方程模型和多组比较。结果表明,主观规范、感知行为控制、健康意识和时尚创新是缝制口罩意愿的预测因素。制作意图正向影响个体的实际面具缝制行为。制定意图与实际行为之间的关系受就业状况和年龄的调节。
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引用次数: 2
Exploring T-shirt slogans by content and thematic analysis 通过内容和主题分析来探索t恤标语
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-01-29 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2032383
Xiao Tong, Jin Su
ABSTRACT Despite the popularity of t-shirts and slogans' usage on t-shirts, there is virtually no empirical research on t-shirt slogans. This study aims to answer three research questions namely: (1) What are the popular t-shirt slogans? (2) Who are the companies' selling t-shirts with slogans? (3) What are the characteristics of the slogans that are liked by young consumers? Content and thematic analysis were used to analyze the responses. We believe the findings of this research can serve as a foundation for future research on t-shirt slogans and contribute to the existing body of knowledge on slogans.
尽管t恤和标语在t恤上的使用很受欢迎,但关于t恤标语的实证研究几乎没有。本研究旨在回答三个研究问题,即:(1)流行的t恤口号是什么?(2)销售印有标语的t恤的公司是谁?(3)受年轻消费者喜爱的广告语有哪些特点?采用内容分析法和主题分析法对调查结果进行分析。我们相信本研究的发现可以作为未来研究t恤标语的基础,并有助于现有的标语知识体系。
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引用次数: 3
Attitudes towards wearing masks among young adults 年轻人对戴口罩的态度
Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2022-01-29 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2021.2025270
Diana Saiki, A. D. Adomaitis, J. Kandiah
ABSTRACT The purpose of this study was to investigate attitudes about mask characteristics among young adults. Research questions included the following: (1) How do attitudes about: Do practical characteristics of masks influence mask-wearing? and (2) Does mask style and extrinsic characteristics influence mask-wearing? A mixed-methods approach was used. In December 2020, a survey was distributed online to fashion classes in the Midwest(rural) and Northeast (urban). The questionnaire contained a demographics section, open-ended questions about participants’ attitudes about masks, questions on mask-wearing behaviour, and a list of garment characteristics. The open-ended questions were analyzed for themes. The Likert scale questions were analyzed using a Factor Analysis and Analysis of Variance. Participants regarded practical characteristics of masks over style, particularly among the urban group. Style considerations were considered, particularly colour. Brand was not considered important. This research has implications in designing and merchandising masks.
摘要本研究的目的是调查年轻人对面具特征的态度。研究问题包括:(1)口罩的实用特性对佩戴口罩有何影响?(2)口罩样式和外在特征是否影响口罩佩戴?采用混合方法。2020年12月,一份调查在中西部(农村)和东北部(城市)的时尚课堂上进行了在线分发。问卷包含一个人口统计部分,关于参与者对口罩的态度的开放式问题,关于戴口罩行为的问题,以及一份服装特征清单。对开放性问题进行主题分析。李克特量表问题采用因子分析和方差分析进行分析。参与者更看重面具的实用性,而不是风格,尤其是在城市人群中。风格方面的考虑,特别是颜色。品牌被认为不重要。这项研究对口罩的设计和销售具有启示意义。
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引用次数: 2
期刊
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
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