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Safety Orange 安全橙色
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2021-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412921994603
A. Fisher
Safety Orange first emerged as a legal color standard in the US in the 1950s in technical manuals and federal regulations; today, it is most visible in the contexts of terror, pandemic, and environmental alarm systems; traffic control; work safety; and mass incarceration. The color is a marker of the extreme poles of state oversight and abandonment, of capitalist excess and dereliction. Its unprecedented saturation encodes the tracking of those bodies, neighborhoods, and infrastructures coded as worthy of care – and those deemed dangerous and expendable. This article uses the color orange as an interpretive key for theorizing the uneven distribution of safety and care in 21st-century US public life and to ponder what orange tells us about the relationship between phenomena often viewed as unrelated: information networks, climate data science, pandemic crisis, neoliberal policy, racist violence, and socially engaged art.
上世纪50年代,安全橙色首次在美国的技术手册和联邦法规中成为法定颜色标准;今天,它在恐怖、流行病和环境警报系统的背景下最为明显;交通管制;工作安全;以及大规模监禁。这种颜色是国家监管和放任、资本主义过度和放任的两极的标志。它前所未有的饱和编码了对那些值得关注的尸体、社区和基础设施的跟踪,以及那些被认为是危险的和可牺牲的。本文使用橙色作为解释21世纪美国公共生活中安全和护理的不均匀分布的理论关键,并思考橙色告诉我们通常被视为不相关的现象之间的关系:信息网络,气候数据科学,流行病危机,新自由主义政策,种族主义暴力和社会参与艺术。
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引用次数: 1
The crystal reveals the whole: medieval dreamscapes and cinematic space as virtual media 水晶揭示了整体:中世纪的梦境和电影空间作为虚拟媒体
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2021-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412921994617
A. Griffiths
This article examines the rich visual culture of the medieval period in order to better understand dreaming as a kind of visual thought experiment, one in which ideas associated with cinema, such as embodied viewing, narrative sequencing, projection, and sensory engagement, are palpable in a range of visual and literary works. The author explores the theoretical connections between the oneiric qualities of cinema and the visual culture of medieval dreams, dealing in turn with the following themes: (i) media and mediation; (ii) projection and premonition; (iii) virtual spatiality; and (iv) automata and other animated objects. The wide swath of medieval literary dream texts, with their mobile perspectives, sensory plentitude, and gnostic mission, resonate with the cinematic in the structuring of the gaze. Investigating the codes of medieval culture provides us with an unusually rich episteme for thinking about how the dreamscapes of the Middle Ages evoke media dispositifs. Opening up these thought lines across distinct eras can help us extrapolate similarities around ways of imagining objects, spaces, sensations of embodied viewing or immersion, reminding us that our contemporary cinematic and digital landscapes are not divorced from earlier ways of seeing and believing. Whether stoking religious fear and veneration or providing sensual pleasure as in Le Roman de la Rose, the dreamworlds of the Middle Ages have bequeathed us a number of an extraordinarily rich creative works that are the imaginative building blocks of media worlds-in-the-making, as speculative in many ways as current discourses around new media.
本文考察了中世纪丰富的视觉文化,以便更好地将做梦理解为一种视觉思维实验,在这种实验中,与电影相关的思想,如具象观看、叙事顺序、投影和感官参与,在一系列视觉和文学作品中都是显而易见的。作者探讨了电影的经验主义品质与中世纪梦的视觉文化之间的理论联系,进而探讨了以下主题:(i)媒介与中介;(ii)投射和预感;(iii)虚拟空间性;以及(iv)自动机和其他动画对象。大量中世纪文学梦境文本,以其流动的视角、丰富的感官和灵知使命,在凝视的结构上与电影产生了共鸣。研究中世纪文化的密码为我们思考中世纪的梦境如何唤起媒体处置提供了一个异常丰富的认识论。在不同的时代打开这些思想线可以帮助我们推断出想象物体、空间、具体观看或沉浸感的方式的相似性,提醒我们,我们当代的电影和数字景观并没有脱离早期的观看和相信方式。无论是煽动宗教恐惧和崇敬,还是像《玫瑰》中那样提供感官愉悦,中世纪的梦幻世界都给我们留下了许多极其丰富的创意作品,这些作品是正在形成的媒体世界的富有想象力的组成部分,在许多方面与当前围绕新媒体的话语一样具有推测性。
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引用次数: 0
Julia Adeney Thomas and Geoff Eley (eds), Visualizing Fascism: The Twentieth-Century Rise of the Global Right, reviewed by Mark Antliff 朱莉娅·阿登尼·托马斯和杰夫·埃利主编,《可视化法西斯主义:二十世纪全球右翼的崛起》,由马克·安特利夫审阅
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2021-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412921996294
Mark Antliff
As the introductory essay to Visualizing Fascism makes clear, the primary goal of this anthology is to alert scholars in the field of history to the role of aesthetics and visual culture in fascist movements, while simultaneously defining fascism as a global phenomenon. Edited by two eminent historians – one a scholar of 20th-century Japan, the other of Nazi Germany – the volume has much to offer due to the geographical scope of its case studies. In her opening essay, Julia Adeney Thomas argues that ‘the visual also helps liberate [historians] from mired national debates by revealing how easily aesthetic styles and modes of public communication slip across borders’ (p. 5). This specialized focus on historians as the anthology’s target audience is reinforced by its list of contributors: eight of the anthology’s eleven authors are historians, supplemented by essays by one art historian, one architectural historian, and one author from the composite field of German and Media Arts.
正如《可视化法西斯主义》的导论文章所表明的那样,这本选集的主要目标是提醒历史领域的学者注意美学和视觉文化在法西斯运动中的作用,同时将法西斯主义定义为一种全球现象。本书由两位杰出的历史学家编辑——一位是研究20世纪日本的学者,另一位是研究纳粹德国的学者——由于其案例研究的地理范围,这本书有很多东西可以提供。朱莉娅·阿登尼·托马斯(Julia Adeney Thomas)在她的开篇文章中认为,“通过揭示审美风格和公共传播模式是多么容易跨越国界,视觉也有助于将[历史学家]从陷入困境的国家辩论中解放出来”(第5页)。作为选集的目标受众,这种对历史学家的专门关注得到了作者名单的加强:选集的11位作者中有8位是历史学家,另外还有一位艺术历史学家、一位建筑历史学家和一位来自德国和媒体艺术综合领域的作者。
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引用次数: 0
Where Blackness dies: the aesthetics of a massacre and the violence of remembering 黑人在哪里死亡:大屠杀的美学和记忆的暴力
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2021-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412921999456
Xiomara Verenice Cervantes-Gómez
This article focuses on the presence of ‘Blackness’ in Latin America, and the role/location of ‘Blackness’ in the necropolitics of Mexico, in particular, as a visual mode of aestheticizing violence in the aftermath of the 2010 Tamaulipas massacre of 72 undocumented migrants. As an act of remembering the victims, Mexican journalists, writers, and activists created a digital altar: 72 Migrantes. Focusing on photography and narrative as visual frames of Blackness, this article analyzes the representation of Black bodies in the digital altar to conceptualize Blackness as: a constitutive part of violent landscapes; a symptom and supplement of that violence; and, conversely, the location itself from which to critique that violence. At stake is a call for Blackness to be read within hemispheric Latin Americanist visual studies as a locus for understanding antisociality and critical race theory by closely studying the role of the human, social death, and the aesthetics of remembrance. Over 10 years after the massacre, the arguments raised in this article both implicitly and explicitly underscore the need to conceptualize contemporary Blackness and death in the wake of the growing anti-racism activism, Black Lives Matter, and the disproportionate number of people of color who have died as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic.
这篇文章关注的是“黑人”在拉丁美洲的存在,以及“黑人”的角色/位置在墨西哥的墓地政治中,特别是作为2010年塔毛利帕斯大屠杀72名无证移民后暴力审美化的视觉模式。为了纪念受害者,墨西哥记者、作家和活动家创建了一个数字祭坛:72名移民。本文以摄影和叙事作为黑人的视觉框架,分析了黑人身体在数字祭坛中的表现,将黑人概念化为:暴力景观的组成部分;这种暴力的症状和补充;反过来,批评暴力的地点本身。这关系到呼吁在半球拉丁美洲视觉研究中解读黑人,通过密切研究人类、社会死亡和记忆美学的作用,将其视为理解反社会性和批判性种族理论的场所。大屠杀发生10多年后,这篇文章中提出的论点含蓄而明确地强调,随着反种族主义运动“黑人的命很重要”(Black Lives Matter)的不断增长,以及新冠肺炎大流行导致的有色人种死亡人数不成比例,有必要将当代黑人和死亡概念化。
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引用次数: 0
Screenic fashion: horizontality, minimal materiality and manual operation 屏幕时尚:横向、最小的实质性和手动操作
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412920966012
M. Baronian
Focusing on a one-minute ‘fashion film’ by the Dutch fashion designer Alexander van Slobbe for the retrospective exhibition on his work in Utrecht’s Centraal Museum in 2010, this article investigates the interconnectedness of film and fashion through their mutual concern with the processes of crafting and dressing. A close reading of Van Slobbe’s film highlights a current return to a minimal design aesthetic in both fashion and film that shows fashion as a process or as a ‘manual’ operation. This film goes beyond the portrait of a fashion designer, becoming a meditation on the material practice of designing, crafting and viewing. That practice involves an intimacy with materiality constituting the fashion garment as a material, crafted and dynamic sartorial object that requires an axial positionality stemming from horizontal closeness. Ultimately, this article presents horizontality as being part of the experience of both moving images and fashion as a material object. The aim is thus to reflect on what is termed ubiquitous ‘screenic fashion’ (as a peculiar affinity between fashion and screen) by considering an alignment of horizontality and materiality as related to a current and vivid concern in the field of fashion and clothes-making.
2010年,荷兰时装设计师亚历山大·范·斯洛布(Alexander van Slobbe)在乌得勒支中央博物馆(Utrecht’s Central Museum)举办的作品回顾展上拍摄了一部一分钟的“时尚电影”,本文通过电影与时尚在工艺和穿着过程中的相互关注,探讨了电影与时尚的相互联系。仔细阅读Van Slobbe的电影,可以发现当前时尚和电影都回归了最低限度的设计美学,将时尚视为一种过程或“手动”操作。这部电影超越了时装设计师的肖像,成为对设计、制作和观看的物质实践的思考。这种做法涉及到与物质性的亲密关系,这种亲密关系构成了时尚服装作为一种材料、精心制作和动态的服装对象,需要源自水平亲密的轴向位置。最终,本文将横向性作为运动图像体验的一部分,并将时尚作为实物。因此,其目的是通过考虑与时尚和服装制造领域当前的生动关注相关的水平性和实质性的一致性,来反思所谓无处不在的“屏幕时尚”(作为时尚和屏幕之间的一种特殊亲和力)。
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引用次数: 0
After fashion film: social video and brand content in the influencer economy 继时尚电影之后:网红经济中的社交视频和品牌内容
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412920964907
Nick Rees-Roberts
Luxury and designer fashion brands today produce as much digital content and branded entertainment as they do design and product. Online video is a key part of that production. In this article, the author questions whether the use of the generic term ‘fashion film’ is still relevant to discussions of the moving image in the digital age. He does this by examining a range of promotional uses of the moving image by the fashion industry – by brands such as Gucci, Burberry and Louis Vuitton – on the social media platforms Instagram, YouTube and Snapchat, which blend design with media. This article seeks to engage critically with the branded dominance of ‘fashion film’ as a commercial phenomenon in contemporary visual culture by positioning it as a shape-shifting form of ‘content’ through the dissemination of moving images on social media, on mobile image-sharing platforms, in which the visual dynamic of the feed (of marketing and data) is now, in part, superseding the aesthetic framework of cinema (of narrative and drama). Rather than situating it primarily as part of film history, here the author situates the contemporary fashion-moving image at the intersection of digital interactivity, fashion branding and celebrity influence.
如今,奢侈和设计师时尚品牌生产的数字内容和品牌娱乐与设计和产品一样多。在线视频是制作的关键部分。在这篇文章中,作者质疑通用术语“时尚电影”的使用是否仍然与数字时代的运动图像讨论有关。他通过研究时尚界——古驰、巴宝莉和路易威登等品牌——在社交媒体平台Instagram、YouTube和Snapchat上对运动图像的一系列宣传用途来做到这一点,这些平台将设计与媒体融合在一起。本文试图通过在社交媒体和移动图像共享平台上传播运动图像,将“时尚电影”定位为一种变形的“内容”形式,从而批判性地探讨“时尚电影“作为当代视觉文化中一种商业现象的品牌主导地位,在社交媒体上,取代了电影(叙事和戏剧)的美学框架。作者没有将其主要作为电影史的一部分,而是将当代时尚运动图像置于数字互动、时尚品牌和名人影响力的交叉点。
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引用次数: 12
Excavating fashion film: a media archaeological perspective 挖掘时尚电影:媒介考古视角
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412920964915
Marketa Uhlirova
In the emerging ‘video-first world’ of the last decade, global fashion brands have made the moving image an integral component of their digital marketing strategies. As a result, both the industry and popular perceptions of fashion film have been increasingly colonized by the notions of branding and promotion. Recent scholarship on fashion film too has put the fashion brand at the centre of analysis. This article argues against any such premature fixing of fashion film’s identity. Instead, it proposes shifting the existing perspective by reframing fashion film as not only a product of the fashion industry and associated media but also one of the cinema industry and culture. Drawing on media archaeological models of ‘excavation’ and ‘parallax historiography’, the article examines contemporary digital fashion film in parallel with fashion film of the early 20th century – a juxtaposition that helps to recapture the phenomenon’s remarkable diversity and open possibility in both periods.
在过去十年新兴的“视频第一世界”中,全球时尚品牌已将运动图像作为其数字营销战略的组成部分。因此,无论是行业还是大众对时尚电影的看法,都越来越被品牌和推广的概念所殖民化。最近关于时尚电影的研究也将时尚品牌置于分析的中心。这篇文章反对任何这种过早地固定时尚电影的身份。相反,它建议改变现有的视角,将时尚电影重新定义为不仅是时尚行业和相关媒体的产物,也是电影行业和文化的产物。本文借鉴了“挖掘”和“视差史学”的媒体考古模型,将当代数字时尚电影与20世纪初的时尚电影进行了平行研究——这种并置有助于重新捕捉这两个时期这种现象的显著多样性和开放的可能性。
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引用次数: 3
Review: Dan Karlholm and Keith Moxey (eds) Time in the History of Art: Temporality, Chronology and Anachrony 书评:丹·卡尔霍姆和基思·莫西主编,《艺术史中的时间:时间性、年代学和时代错误》
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412920936578
Ian Verstegen
Art historians have long reflected on space – how does an image fit into a book or altarpiece from which it’s been detached? But time has also not been neglected. Heinrich Wölfflin (1941), for example, argued it was incorrect to imagine Renaissance sculptures reflecting a single moment in time. Indeed, the reconstruction of space and time would be standard dual aims of historicist art history. Nevertheless, a ‘temporal turn’ has been advocated within art history in order to bring time and its theoretical conflicts (anachronism, heterochronism) to the fore. The edited book under review reflects this trend, which is closely related to the ‘materialist’ turn of affective, networked reality as a model for understanding art historiographic scholarship in the contemporary moment.
艺术历史学家长期以来一直在思考空间——一幅图像如何融入一本书或祭坛画中?但时间也没有被忽视。例如,Heinrich Wölfflin(1941)认为,想象文艺复兴时期的雕塑反映一个时刻是不正确的。事实上,空间和时间的重建将是历史主义艺术史的标准双重目标。然而,艺术史上一直提倡“时间转向”,以突出时间及其理论冲突(时代错误、异时代)。正在编辑的这本书反映了这一趋势,这与情感的“唯物主义”转向密切相关,网络现实是理解当代艺术史学术的典范。
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引用次数: 0
Review: Gilles Deleuze, Letters and Other Texts, David Lapoujade (ed.), trans. Ames Hodges 书评:吉尔·德勒兹,《书信与其他文本》,大卫·拉普杰德主编,译。艾姆斯霍奇斯
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412920965128
Jae Emerling
This book is an odd collection of Deleuze ephemera: letters, some ink drawings, reviews, interviews, and a few writings from early (1940s–1950s) in his academic career. These materials are epiphenomena: archival remnants that present us with a certain ambivalence. On one hand, these remnants will entertain Deleuze scholars, whose scholia will value Deleuze’s exam and course preparation materials on David Hume as well as the 15 letters to Félix Guattari collected here wherein we discover the first mention of a work of art as an ‘abstract machine’ (p. 43). On the other hand, Deleuze lived and worked so that there would be no need for an archive. Deleuze was no archivist. We know this not only because he destroyed his correspondence with Alain Badiou in late 1994, but also because Deleuze’s work tells us as much time and again. In the letters presented here we read: ‘Don’t think that I am a compulsive letter writer or that I have a sense of dialogue, I hate it’ (p. 72). Even the editor David Lapoujade writes that ‘there are no letters from these correspondents because Deleuze did not keep any mail’: ‘he differed in this way from other authors who considered their letters to be extensions of their work’ (p. 7). The ephemera presented here must be complemented with the more significant posthumous volumes of Deleuze’s work that we have in English, namely Desert Islands and Other Texts 1953–1974 (2004) and Two Regimes of Madness: Texts and Interviews 1975–1995 (2006). But this only helps if these texts intensify our relation to the work published by Deleuze, to the sheer inexhaustibility of the concepts presented there: multiplicity as a substantive repetition as opposed to reproduction, duration and immanence.
这本书是德勒兹星历的奇怪集合:信件、一些水墨画、评论、采访,以及他学术生涯早期(1940年代至1950年代)的一些作品。这些材料是一种副现象:档案残余物给我们带来了某种矛盾心理。一方面,这些残余将使德勒兹学者感到高兴,他们的学术界将重视德勒兹关于大卫·休谟的考试和课程准备材料,以及这里收集的15封给费利克斯·瓜塔里的信,我们在信中发现了艺术作品作为“抽象机器”的首次提及(第43页)。另一方面,德勒兹的生活和工作是为了不需要档案。德勒兹不是档案管理员。我们之所以知道这一点,不仅是因为他在1994年末销毁了与阿兰·巴迪乌的通信,还因为德勒兹的作品一次又一次地告诉我们这么多。在这里呈现的信件中,我们写道:“不要认为我是一个强迫性的写信人,也不要认为我有对话感,我讨厌它”(第72页)。就连编辑David Lapoujade也写道,“没有这些记者的来信,因为德勒兹没有保存任何邮件”:“他在这方面与其他认为他们的信件是他们作品的延伸的作者不同”(第7页)。这里所呈现的星历必须与德勒兹死后更重要的英文作品相补充,即《荒岛与其他文本1953–1974》(2004)和《疯狂的两个团:文本与访谈1975–1995》(2006)。但只有当这些文本强化了我们与德勒兹出版的作品的关系,与那里提出的概念的绝对不可穷尽性的关系时,这才有帮助:多样性是一种实质性的重复,而不是复制、持续时间和内在性。
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引用次数: 0
Introduction: touch, click and motion: archaeologies of fashion film after digital culture 简介:触摸、点击和运动:数字文化之后的时尚电影考古
IF 1.4 4区 社会学 0 ART Pub Date : 2020-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/1470412920966015
C. Evans, J. Parikka
This article functions as the introduction to the Themed Issue on Archaeologies of Fashion Film. The text introduces fashion film as a genre and as an historically dynamic form of audiovisual expression that we approach through fashion history, media archaeology and new film history. While introducing key concepts and approaches, the authors propose a form of ‘parallax historiography’, a term emerging from Thomas Elsaesser’s work, that links different time periods from early cinema to recent digital platforms, even ‘post-cinema’. The introduction makes references to the contributions in this issue that address historical conditions of emergence, marginal voices in the historical record and unexcavated archival materials; and the issue shows how they all contain feedback loops or recursive traits that resonate in contemporary practice where infrastructures of platforms and data frame the moving image.
本文是对《时尚电影考古》专题的介绍。本文介绍了时尚电影作为一种类型,作为一种历史动态的视听表达形式,我们通过时尚史、媒体考古学和新电影史来探讨它。在介绍关键概念和方法的同时,作者提出了一种“视差史学”的形式,这是托马斯·埃尔萨瑟作品中出现的一个术语,它将早期电影到最近的数字平台,甚至“后电影”的不同时期联系起来。引言部分提到了本期的贡献,涉及出现的历史条件、历史记录中的边缘声音和未发掘的档案材料;该问题表明,它们都包含反馈回路或递归特性,这些特性在当代实践中引起共鸣,在当代实践,平台和数据的基础设施构成了运动图像的框架。
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引用次数: 4
期刊
Journal of Visual Culture
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