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Fashioning Smoking Space: A Sensory Historical Geography of the Smoking Suit from Olfactory Barrier to Dernier Cri 塑造吸烟空间:从嗅觉屏障到丹尼·克里吸烟服的感官历史地理
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1927795
I. Marković
Sometime before the Great War, somewhere in England, a woman in a green silk kimono locks the door of her room and lights a gold-tipped cigarette. This simple act, and the memory of it traced in the archive, will be explored and used as a route into narrating a sensory history of the smoking suit from its use as a masculine garment designed to obviate putrid tobacco smells to its eventual adoption as a feminine object of high fashion. Drawing on a wide range of primary sources, from newspaper and magazine articles to etiquette books, advice manuals, fashion plates, and trade journals, the paper examines the representations of the smoking suit from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century and the role it was ascribed in the constitution of gendered smoking spaces. By weaving through the textures, smells, flavors and places associated with it, the paper attempts to tease out the sensory, affective and embodied micro-politics of wearing as this plush item of smoking fashion moves from the private space of the home, to the public spaces of the fashion show. The paper concludes by arguing for the importance of taking seriously the multisensory, everyday geographies of fashion, and their capacity to both perpetuate and disrupt wider relationships of power.
第一次世界大战之前的某个时候,在英国的某个地方,一个穿着绿色丝绸和服的女人锁上了房间的门,点上了一支金头香烟。这个简单的行为,以及档案中对它的记忆,将被探索并作为叙述吸烟服的感官历史的途径,从它作为一件男性服装被设计用来消除腐烂的烟草气味,到它最终被采用为高级时尚的女性对象。利用广泛的第一手资料,从报纸和杂志文章到礼仪书籍、建议手册、时尚板块和行业期刊,本文研究了从19世纪中期到20世纪初吸烟服的表现,以及它在性别吸烟空间构成中的作用。通过编织与之相关的纹理、气味、味道和场所,本文试图梳理出穿着的感官、情感和体现的微观政治,因为这个吸烟时尚的毛绒物品从家庭的私人空间转移到时装秀的公共空间。这篇论文最后论证了认真对待时尚的多感官、日常地理的重要性,以及它们维持和破坏更广泛的权力关系的能力。
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引用次数: 0
Feather-Work: A Fashioned Ostrich Plume Embodies Hybrid and Violent Labors of Growing and Making 羽毛制品:鸵鸟羽毛的造型体现了生长和制作的混合和暴力劳动
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1904789
Merle M Patchett
This paper uses a fashioned ostrich plume to conceptualize and re-present ostrich “feather-work” as being co-constituted by human and non-human labor. The plume archives not only the human hands that fashioned it but also the bird-body that grew the feathers, insisting it be conceptualized and researched as a grown-made commodity. From this starting point, I reconstruct its journey along the “feather-road”: from reared and plucked ostrich on a South African ostrich farm to willowed plume in Euro-American sweatshops. By fleshing-out the “hybrid labor” involved in the plume’s growing and making, I demonstrate that feather-work not only exploited indigenous African, indentured migrant, and sweated immigrant human laborers, but how it yoked the reproductive and metabolic labor of ostriches. By doing so the paper illustrates how this luxury feather-fashion accessory is historically implicated in colonial, economic, and ecological violence, locating the troubling journeys of fashion’s “bio-commodities” further back in time.
本文以一件成型的鸵鸟羽毛,将鸵鸟的“羽毛作品”概念化和再现为人类和非人类劳动共同构成的作品。羽毛不仅记录了制作羽毛的人的手,还记录了长羽毛的鸟的身体,坚持把羽毛作为一种成熟的商品进行概念化和研究。从这个起点,我沿着“羽毛之路”重建了它的旅程:从南非鸵鸟养殖场饲养和拔毛的鸵鸟,到欧美血汗工厂修剪过的羽毛。通过充实羽毛生长和制作过程中的“混合劳动”,我证明了羽毛工作不仅剥削了非洲土著、契约移民和出汗的移民劳工,而且还束缚了鸵鸟的繁殖和代谢劳动。通过这样做,论文说明了这种奢侈的羽毛时尚配饰是如何在历史上与殖民、经济和生态暴力联系在一起的,并将时尚“生物商品”的令人不安的旅程追溯到更早的时候。
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引用次数: 0
Geographies of Fashion and Style: Setting the Scene 时尚与风格的地理:背景
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1925138
Merle M Patchett, N. Williams
The papers assembled in this forum examine the Geographies of Fashion and Style through texts, visual images, material objects and processes of growing and making, as lived experiences and performative practices and, crucially, as concepts and practices that travel and mutate over time and place. In this introduction, we chart the Eurocentric cultural episteme of the fashion industry and fashion studies and dismantle it by drawing on, and out, globally-orientated and decentered approaches to the study of fashion and style. Our contribution to debates on fashion and style is to draw out five impulses arising at the intersections of geography and fashion studies and which our collection of papers brings to the fore: Theorizing, Queering, Decolonizing, Ecologizing, and Curating. In doing so, our introduction foregrounds the significance of fashion and style as sites of (micro) political problems and potentials, and is a call and a framework through which to extend and take seriously the diverse processes of fashion and style as sentient to the broader themes and scholarship of concern in the geohumanities.
本次论坛汇集的论文通过文本、视觉图像、实物和生长和制作过程,作为生活经验和表演实践,更重要的是,作为随时间和地点旅行和变异的概念和实践,研究了时尚和风格的地理。在本导言中,我们描绘了时尚产业和时尚研究的欧洲中心文化知识,并通过借鉴和淘汰全球导向和非中心的时尚和风格研究方法来拆除它。我们对时尚和风格辩论的贡献是在地理和时尚研究的交叉点上引出五种冲动,这是我们的论文集合所带来的:理论化、酷儿化、去殖民化、生态化和策展。在这样做的过程中,我们的引言突出了时尚和风格作为(微观)政治问题和潜力的重要性,并且是一种呼吁和框架,通过它来扩展和认真对待时尚和风格的不同过程,以感知更广泛的主题和地理人文学科关注的学术。
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引用次数: 2
Ecotone as Methodology 过渡带作为方法论
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1923404
L. Denning
This article is a critical reflection upon Interim—a project I undertook at Srishti Institute of Art, Design and Technology in Bangalore. Every year, up to 15 international artists are invited to take undergraduate students through a six week immersive programme, designed by the artists, to a specific theme. I led a particular Interim project through November and December 2018. I consider the projects’ focus, methodologies and impacts. I place the concept of an “ecotone” within the context of a transdisciplinary arts practice, with the aim of opening up the term, and the arts practice, to new understandings that can challenge conventional ways of thinking about people, place and sensation.
这篇文章是我在班加罗尔的Srishti艺术、设计和技术学院进行的一个名为interim的项目的批判性反思。每年,多达15名国际艺术家被邀请参加为期六周的沉浸式课程,由艺术家设计一个特定的主题。我在2018年11月和12月领导了一个特别的临时项目。我考虑项目的重点、方法和影响。我将“ecotone”的概念置于跨学科艺术实践的背景下,目的是打开术语和艺术实践的新理解,挑战对人,地点和感觉的传统思维方式。
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引用次数: 0
Gambling on the Monsoon in the Indian Desert 在印度沙漠赌季风
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-05-20 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1883992
Stine Simonsen Puri
In the desert area of Rajasthan, people have been betting money on when and how much it will rain during the monsoon for centuries. Despite state investment in forecasting technologies in India, rain bettors do not believe official weather data can predict the precise timing, volume, or location of rain. They instead observe the sky and share real-time information via social networks. Ethnographic research on weather prediction has focused on farmers’ expertise and information relevant for agriculture. Rain betting highlights other monsoon patterns in northwest India, especially sudden shifts in cloud direction and speed. It also foregrounds a creativity around weather uncertainties that, like weather derivatives trading, is about pursuit of profit through active ongoing engagement with weather risks. Rain betting, I argue, is a form of vernacular speculation in futures in an area where people are increasingly giving up farming for more profitable work.
在拉贾斯坦邦的沙漠地区,几个世纪以来,人们一直在打赌季风期间何时下雨以及下雨多少。尽管印度政府对预报技术进行了投资,但赌雨的人不相信官方的天气数据能准确预测降雨的时间、数量或地点。取而代之的是,他们观察天空,并通过社交网络分享实时信息。关于天气预报的人种学研究侧重于农民的专业知识和与农业有关的信息。降雨打赌强调了印度西北部的其他季风模式,尤其是云的方向和速度的突然变化。它还提出了一种围绕天气不确定性的创新,就像天气衍生品交易一样,是通过积极持续地参与天气风险来追求利润。我认为,在一个越来越多的人放弃农业而从事更有利可图的工作的地区,赌雨是一种当地的期货投机形式。
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引用次数: 0
Documenting Urban Change: Gentrification, Representation, and Living Los Sures 记录城市变化:中产阶级化、代表性和生活保障
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-05-19 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1877561
N. Earhart
The 1984 documentary Los Sures is a portrait of the poverty-stricken Puerto Rican neighborhood of South Williamsburg, Brooklyn. In 2014, the Brooklyn-based documentary nonprofit UnionDocs re-released this little-seen film, along with a host of new multimedia content. The project, titled Living Los Sures, is alternatively a statement on the neighborhood’s radical transformation and an appeal to a sense of community and continuity. This essay engages the politics and esthetics of such an undertaking through the lens of both documentary-film studies and critical geographic perspectives on gentrification. I argue that while Living Los Sures betrays a flawed liberalism consistent with much documentary filmmaking, it nevertheless offers a unique vantage point onto the spatiotemporal imaginary of the contemporary city. I trace the original film and its re-issue against New York City’s recent history and contend that this project illuminates questions of political solidarity and representation in the neoliberal era.
1984年的纪录片《贫民窟》(Los ures)描绘了波多黎各人在布鲁克林南威廉斯堡(South Williamsburg)的贫困社区。2014年,总部位于布鲁克林的非营利纪录片组织UnionDocs重新发行了这部鲜为人知的电影,同时还发行了一系列新的多媒体内容。该项目名为Living Los ures,是对社区激进转型的一种声明,也是对社区意识和连续性的一种呼吁。这篇文章通过纪录片研究和对中产阶级化的批判性地理视角的镜头,参与了这样一个事业的政治和美学。我认为,虽然《洛杉矶生活》背叛了一种与许多纪录片制作一致的有缺陷的自由主义,但它仍然为当代城市的时空想象提供了一个独特的优势。我追溯了原始电影及其重新发行与纽约市最近的历史,并认为这个项目阐明了新自由主义时代的政治团结和代表性问题。
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引用次数: 0
Mapping Bodies, Designing Feminist Icons 绘制身体,设计女权主义图标
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-05-19 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1883455
M. Kelly
Bodies are nuanced, fluid, and political—often combining forms of intersecting and experiential identities. Nevertheless, bodies are frequently missing from maps altogether or, when they are included on maps, they are reduced to points, lines, and polygons. Focusing on iconography, I explore the depiction of bodies in map symbolization through a feminist lens. I apply a feminist semiotic analysis to thirty-eight Maki icons to problematize the ways in which bodies are depicted, abstracted, or erased. I analyze icon symbolization, particularly the presence/absence of bodily forms, the presence/absence of an embodied object, and the icons’ iconicity. My feminist analysis reveals the underlying silences, defaults, and power dynamics within the Maki icon set. I call mapmakers to rethink the depictions of bodies in icons—and the role of “universal” icon sets, more broadly—through a feminist lens. I offer design opportunities as a starting point for such an endeavor.
身体是微妙的、流动的和政治性的——通常结合了交叉和经验身份的形式。然而,地图上经常缺少物体,或者当它们被包含在地图上时,它们被简化为点、线和多边形。我以图像学为中心,通过女性主义的视角来探索地图符号化对身体的描绘。我运用女权主义符号学分析了38个Maki图标,以质疑身体被描绘、抽象或抹去的方式。我分析了图标的符号化,特别是身体形式的存在/不存在,具象对象的存在/不存在,以及图标的象似性。我的女权主义分析揭示了Maki图标集合中潜在的沉默、默认和权力动态。我呼吁地图制作者通过女权主义的视角,重新思考图标中对身体的描绘,以及更广泛地说,“通用”图标集的作用。我提供设计机会作为这种努力的起点。
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引用次数: 3
Film as Method in the Geohumanities 电影作为地球人文科学的研究方法
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-05-14 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1898287
M. Gandy
Filmmaking has become an increasing focus of interest within geography, the geohumanities, and related fields. The use of film ranges from enhanced forms of ethnographic fieldwork to the production of feature-length documentaries shown at international festivals. The making of documentaries has become an increasingly significant research method in itself that has the potential to become a widely recognized type of interdisciplinary research output. How should we interpret the role of film in relation to wider epistemological debates over the production of knowledge? How can we contextualize the methodological turn toward film within the broader historiography of filmmaking and the cinematic apparatus? This article argues that documentary film has a distinctive role to play in expanding the research imagination, enhancing pedagogic practice, reaching new audiences, and producing unique cultural artifacts. At the same time, however, the use of film is also entrained in complex debates concerning the verisimilitude of representational practices and the wider institutional context for the production and evaluation of knowledge.
电影制作已经成为地理、地理人文和相关领域日益关注的焦点。电影的使用范围从加强形式的民族志田野调查到制作在国际电影节上放映的长篇纪录片。纪录片的制作本身已经成为一种越来越重要的研究方法,有可能成为一种被广泛认可的跨学科研究成果。我们应该如何解释电影在知识生产的认识论辩论中所扮演的角色?我们如何在更广泛的电影制作史学和电影设备的背景下,将方法论转向电影?本文认为,纪录片在拓展研究想象力、加强教学实践、接触新观众和生产独特的文化制品方面发挥着独特的作用。然而,与此同时,电影的使用也卷入了关于再现实践的真实性和知识生产和评价的更广泛的制度背景的复杂辩论中。
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引用次数: 5
Roden Crater: Home Edition 有两种
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-05-13 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2021.1886863
Jacqueline Bowring
Roden Crater, Arizona, engages with the phenomenology of light and the celestial sphere. Because such phenomena elude capture by photography, first-hand experience is necessary. However, the project will not be open to the public for years, as artist James Turrell wants to first achieve an overall sense of completion. As a geographer and landscape architect, my fascination with phenomenology and in particular with Roden Crater grew into a series of experiments at a domestic scale, to explore the potential for generating parallel experiences. This paper documents the practice of making 1:1 scale experiments that are based on Roden Crater, and the ways in which phenomena can be amplified and experienced. The experiments transformed my sensation of the sky and the perception of being on a moving planet, acts of defamiliarization and strangemaking that intensify our seeing of place
亚利桑那州的罗登陨石坑与光的现象学和天球有关。因为这种现象是摄影无法捕捉到的,所以第一手的经验是必要的。然而,该项目将不会向公众开放数年,因为艺术家詹姆斯·特雷尔(James Turrell)希望首先实现整体的完成感。作为一名地理学家和景观设计师,我对现象学的迷恋,尤其是对罗登火山口的迷恋,发展成为一系列国内规模的实验,探索产生平行体验的潜力。本文记录了以罗登陨石坑为基础进行1:1比例实验的实践,以及放大和体验现象的方法。这些实验改变了我对天空的感觉,改变了我在一个移动的星球上的感觉,这些陌生和陌生的行为强化了我们对地方的认识
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引用次数: 0
Trans Subjectifications: Drawing an (Im)personal Politics of Gender, Fashion, and Style 跨主体化:描绘性别、时尚和风格的个人政治
IF 0.7 Q3 GEOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2021-03-08 DOI: 10.1080/2373566X.2020.1852881
Sage Brice
The lived experiences of gender transition highlight tensions between new and traditional western conceptions of gender and identity, and afford an intimate and unusually broad insight into the mechanisms through which subjectification is gendered and gender subjectivised through daily practices of fashion and style. This experimental, practice-based contribution makes playful and subversive use of a fashion activity book intended for young women and girls to document the author’s experiences of gender transition, taking as its cue the notion that the challenges and joys of transition in many ways resemble a form of second adolescence. It draws on an extended ethnographic engagement with gendered social space to explore how we might rethink the question of subjectification in fashion and style as a fundamentally distributed and yet intensely personal social process. The accompanying text maps out some of the project’s theoretical impetuses, methodological affordances, and onto-political implications.
性别转变的生活经验突出了新的和传统的西方性别和身份观念之间的紧张关系,并提供了一个亲密的和不同寻常的广泛的洞察机制,通过这种机制,主体化是性别化的,性别主体化是通过日常的时尚和风格的实践。这本实验性的、以实践为基础的作品以有趣和颠覆性的方式使用了一本旨在为年轻女性和女孩提供的时尚活动手册,记录了作者的性别转变经历,并将这种转变的挑战和乐趣在许多方面类似于第二青春期的概念作为提示。它利用扩展人种学与性别社会空间的接触,探索我们如何重新思考时尚和风格的主体化问题,将其作为一种基本分布的,但强烈个人的社会过程。随附的文本列出了该项目的一些理论推动力、方法启示和对政治的影响。
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引用次数: 6
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Geohumanities
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