Fashion and Textiles最新文献

During the Joseon Dynasty, light and convenient leather armors were developed to replace metal armors, which were heavy and difficult to manufacture. Leather armors allowed easy movement of the troops and, because arrows were the primary weapons at the time, provided them with protection. The excellent performance of leather armors can be attributed to their materials and manufacturing method. The scales of the leather armor relics are prepared by layering animal skins, attaching them with natural glue, and then coating their outer surface with lacquer. The lacquer extracted from the lacquer (Ott) tree is an excellent material with high strength, waterproofing and antiseptic properties, insect repellency, heat resistance, as well as chemical resistance. The superior performance of the leather scale was reported in old scripts; however, it has not been proven through scientific analysis and testing. Therefore, in this study, the physical and mechanical properties, impact resistance, and anti-stab performance of leather scales manufactured following the traditional method were investigated. The results confirmed the excellent protection, impact resistance, and mechanical properties of the leather specimens glued with fish glue and coated with lacquer compared to those of specimens glued with synthetic glue and uncoated specimens glued with fish glue. This study reveals the excellent properties of fish glue and lacquer, which enable them to be used in various industries.

3D body scanning and printing are attracting attention as innovative technologies for producing dress forms. While designing dress forms, the shape of the human body must be accurately reflected in the different postures. This study explored the development of dress forms as a tool to understand changes in body size and shape according to postures and reflect this information to design and fit evaluation in the apparel industry. The holistic development process of dress forms in standing and sitting postures was suggested for representing the body shape of a specific target group. The average shape of middle-aged Korean women was derived by analyzing the 6th Size Korea data. A representative participant whose dimensions were closest to the average size was selected among recruited participants for the dress form development. The body data were acquired with a portable 3D scanner and corresponding dress forms and accessories were modeled using 3D CAD software. The models were inspected and corrected through prototyping. Full-size dress forms in standing and sitting postures were printed using a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer and post-processed. Completed dress forms were body-scanned and their accuracy was evaluated through morphological similarity comparison, cross-sectional image comparison, surface area and volume comparison, and mesh deviation analysis. Although there were some minor differences caused by the modeling process, the developed dress forms reflected the main characteristics and shapes of the representative body satisfactorily.

This study investigated the visual behavior of consumers within an immersive virtual reality (VR) fashion store on the basis of their fashion involvement. Their shopping motivation was considered as a moderator. A total of 23 consumers participated, and the participants’ actual visual behaviors were recorded in real-time during their store experience section using an eye-tracking device attached to a VR head-mounted display. Results revealed that the greater the consumer’s fashion involvement, the greater their attention to the store area, and the greater their ability to observe more diverse areas in the store. Consumers with higher fashion involvement and browsing motivation spent less time focusing on the product area. Meanwhile, consumers with higher fashion involvement and searching motivation spent more time focusing on the product area. Visual attention to the store area positively affected experience satisfaction, and the effect of visual attention to the product area on satisfaction was moderated by consumers’ shopping motivation.

The aim of this study is to develop digitalized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis. To develop the shrinkage assessment method, 81 grid dots (nine horizontal lines and nine vertical lines) are introduced into the test fabric. This allows the shrinkage to be verified based on the change in distance between neighboring dots, which not only presents the shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, but also the area shrinkage and skewness. The developed evaluation method yields a value that differs from the actual measured value by less than 1 mm, which confirms its significance. To develop a damage evaluation method using the Original Danish MA test fabric, the change in area caused by loosening threads in five holes is evaluated. The area change in the developed method and the number of loosened threads in the conventional method has a high correlation. Comparing the number of dots in the Poka-Dot test fabric before and after washing enables one to distinguish incorrectly created dots during the manufacturing process and to accurately measure the number of missing dots such that the result is similar to the actual measurement. The accuracy and reproducibility of the developed measurement method are confirmed using various verification such as error rate, washing cycle, and washing time. Digitizing the evaluation method can contribute to the digital transformation of apparel quality evaluation by reducing labor and errors between evaluators.

Recycling and converting  textile waste into value-added products with enhanced functional properties pave the way toward a circular economy for sustainability. This research investigates the utilization of recycled cotton fiber from apparel cutting waste for fabricating high-performance thermal barrier fabrics. The physical characterization of the developed fabrics revealed a regular arrangement of fibers, consequently the uniform thickness of the fabric with no distortion on fiber surfaces due to the recycling operation of cotton waste. The developed fabrics also demonstrated a high softness index and low compression and bending average rigidity compared to the commercial fabric with similar thickness. The heat protection performance revealed an increase in fabric conductive and radiative heat resistance with increasing the amount of recycled cotton fiber in the fabrics. The inherent thermal resistance of cotton fiber and the low inter-fiber spacing because of their uniform orientation in the fabric lead to the high thermal resistance of developed fabrics. In the case of fabric air permeability concerning the clothing thermal comfort, no significant difference in breathability was observed among the test specimens. Besides, the moisture management profile of developed fabrics indicated the capability to create favorable thermal comfort within the clothing-skin microenvironment because of improved liquid transportation and diffusion of perspiration vapor through the fabric.

The thermal comfort of a work glove affects wear compliance. This study investigates the thermal comfort of five types of anti-vibration gloves that use chloroprene rubber and spacer fabric as materials to isolate vibration. An evaluation of the fabric and material on the palm and dorsal of the glove, and a wear trial of the gloves were subsequently carried out. The results showed that the palm of the glove made of spacer fabric had higher air and water vapour permeabilities than chloroprene rubber. Using a thin mesh fabric for the dorsal of the glove resulted in a significantly lower skin temperature than using spacer fabric or chloroprene rubber during hand activity. The thermal sensation of the subjects showed no significant difference among the five glove samples. However, the glove wear comfort of the spacer fabric glove was the lowest. Recommendations for the fabric thickness and glove design are provided for developing anti-vibration gloves.

An exhaustive and integrative overview of recent developments in 3D and 4D textiles based on Additive Manufacturing (AM) were provided in order to identify the current state‐of‐the‐art. Despite all scientific progress, AM applied on textiles is a challenging technique and is still at an embryonic stage of research and technological development (R&TD), mainly due to the technological gap between featured prototypes and scalability in manufacturing. Despite its full potential across a range of different applications, such as development of functional filament fibres/wires, 3D printing on textiles, 3D printing completed garments and 4D textiles, needs future developments. Although, AM applied on textiles, enables cost and resource efficiency for small scale production through localised production, shorten supply chain and demand driven manufacture, both customisable and scalable, embracing cost and environmental sustainability. The opportunities and limits of 3D and 4D printing textiles are also discussed. Finally, the conclusion highlights the potential future development and application of the convergence of advanced computational design techniques, product customization, mathematical modelling, simulation, and digital modelling within multifunctional textiles.

Graphical Abstract

Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and socialsustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.

Fashion image datasets, in which each fashion image has a label indicating its design attributes and styles, have contributed to the achievement of various machine learning techniques in the fashion industry. Computer vision studies have investigated labeling categories (such as fashion items, colors, materials, details, and styles) to create fashion image datasets for supervised learning. Although a considerable number of fashion image datasets has been developed, different style classification criteria exist because of a lack of understanding concerning fashion style. Since fashion styles reflect various design attributes, multiple styles can often be included in a single outfit. Thus, this study aims to build a Hybrid Style Framework to develop a fashion image dataset that can be efficiently applied to supervised learning. We conducted focus group interviews with six fashion experts to determine fashion style categories with which to classify hybrid styles in fashion images. We developed 1,206,931K-fashion image datasets and analyzed the hybrid style convergence. Finally, we applied the datasets to the machine learning model and verified the accuracy of the computer’s ability to recognize style. Overall, this study concludes that the Hybrid Style Framework and developed K-fashion image datasets are helpful, as they can be applied to data-driven fashion services to offer personalized fashion design solutions.

Herein, we analyzed total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and the antioxidant activity of the ethanol and distilled water extracted Houttuynia cordata perennial herb. Later, we investigated the possibility of producing Houttuynia cordata extract (HCE) loaded Polyurethane (PU) nanofibers via the electrospinning technique. The analysis confirmed that the total polyphenol, total flavonoid content, and antioxidant activity of the ethanol extracted HCE were higher than the distilled water extracted HCE. Therefore, the ethanol extracted HCE was used to prepare HCE/PU nanofibers by varying concentrations of HCE and PU. The HCE/PU nanofibers showed a mixed pattern of beads and fibers at a PU concentration of 10 wt%. However, at 12 wt% PU concentration, relatively uniform nanofibers with an average diameter of about 200 nm were formed at 1.0% and 1.5 wt% of HCE. The successful incorporation of HCE in PU nanofibrous matrix was confirmed by the presence of its characteristic bands in Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) spectra. The addition of HCE increased the crystallinity, the amount of heat required for pyrolysis, and the thermal stability of HCE/PU nanofibers, which must be credited to the HCE-derived quercitrin and quercetin crystallite solids.