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Knowledge roadmap of sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry: a scientometric analysis 纺织服装行业可持续发展的知识路线图:科学计量分析
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-10-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00308-6
Zhaoshan Wu, Liya Zhou, Xuemei Ding, Xiongying Wu, Laili Wang

Practices in the textile and apparel industry (TAI) have led to numerous environmental and social problems, which have prompted extensive research on the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI). This paper presents a comprehensive and quantitative analysis of the status quo in the SDTAI domain using scientometrics. From 1987 to 2019, the Web of Science core collection databases (SCI and SSCI) included 863 journal articles related to SDTAI, and our analysis results were as follows: (1) 60 critical research keywords occur in the knowledge base; (2) four research hotspots were identified; (3) five themes constituted the main knowledge area; and (4) based on the knowledge base, research hotspot, and knowledge domain, the knowledge structure consisted of nine subjects and five systems. This paper proposes a knowledge roadmap that can be helpful for practitioners and academicians to better understand the current sustainable development status and trends in the TAI.

纺织服装行业的实践导致了许多环境和社会问题,这促使人们对纺织服装行业的可持续发展进行了广泛的研究。本文利用科学计量学对SDTAI领域的现状进行了全面、定量的分析。1987 - 2019年,Web of Science核心收录数据库(SCI和SSCI)收录SDTAI相关期刊论文863篇,分析结果如下:(1)60个关键研究关键词出现在知识库中;(2)确定了4个研究热点;(3)五个主题构成了主要的知识领域;(4)基于知识库、研究热点和知识领域,知识结构由9个学科和5个系统组成。本文提出了一个知识路线图,可以帮助从业者和学者更好地了解当前TAI的可持续发展状况和趋势。
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引用次数: 2
Automatic extraction of upper body landmarks using Rhino and Grasshopper algorithms 使用Rhino和Grasshopper算法自动提取上半身标志
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-10-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00302-y
Eun Joo Ryu, Hwa Kyung Song

The aim of this study is to develop algorithms for automatic landmark extraction on women with various upper body types and body inclinations using the Grasshopper algorithm editor, which enables the user to interact with the 3D modeling interface. First, 15 landmarks were defined based on the morphological features of 3D body surfaces and clothing applications, from which automatic landmark extraction algorithms were developed. To verify the accuracy of the algorithms on various body shapes, this study determined criteria for key body shape factors (BMI, neck slope, upper body slope, and shoulder slope) that influence each landmark position, classified them into body shape groups and sorted the scan samples for each body type using the 6th SizeKorea database. The statistical differences between the scan-derived measurements and the SizeKorea measurements were compared, with an allowable tolerance of ISO 20685. In the case of landmarks with significant differences, the algorithm was modified. It was found that the algorithms were successfully applied to various upper body shapes, which improved the reliability and accuracy of the algorithm.

本研究的目的是利用Grasshopper算法编辑器开发对不同上半身类型和身体倾斜的女性进行自动地标提取的算法,使用户能够与3D建模界面进行交互。首先,基于三维人体表面和服装应用的形态特征定义了15个地标,并据此开发了自动地标提取算法;为了验证算法在各种体型上的准确性,本研究确定了影响每个地标位置的关键体型因素(BMI、颈部坡度、上身坡度和肩部坡度)的标准,将其分类为体型组,并使用第6 SizeKorea数据库对每种体型的扫描样本进行分类。扫描测量和SizeKorea测量之间的统计差异进行了比较,允许公差为ISO 20685。在地标差异显著的情况下,对算法进行修改。结果表明,该算法成功地应用于各种上半身形状,提高了算法的可靠性和准确性。
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引用次数: 2
The effect of touch simulation in virtual reality shopping 触摸模拟在虚拟现实购物中的效果
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-10-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00312-w
Ha Kyung Lee, Namhee Yoon, Dooyoung Choi

This study aims to explore the effect of touch simulation on virtual reality (VR) store satisfaction mediated by VR shopping self-efficacy and VR shopping pleasure. The moderation effects of the autotelic and instrumental need for touch between touch simulation and VR store satisfaction are also explored. Participants wear a head-mounted display VR device (Oculus Go) in a controlled laboratory environment, and their VR store experience is recorded as data. All participants’ responses (n = 58) are analyzed using SPSS 20.0 for descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, exploratory factor analysis, and the Process macro model analysis. The results show that touch simulation positively influences VR store satisfaction, which is mediated by the self-efficacy and by the dual path of the self-efficacy and the pleasure. Furthermore, the relation between touch simulation and pleasure is moderated by need for touch. For individuals with a high level of autotelic need for touch, the effect of touch simulation on the pleasure is heightened. However, instrumental need for touch does not moderate the path of touch simulation on the self-efficacy.

本研究旨在探讨触觉模拟对虚拟现实购物自我效能感和虚拟现实购物愉悦感所介导的虚拟现实商店满意度的影响。本文还探讨了触觉模拟与虚拟现实商店满意度之间的自利性和工具性触觉需求的调节作用。参与者在受控的实验室环境中佩戴头戴式显示VR设备(Oculus Go),他们的VR商店体验被记录为数据。采用SPSS 20.0进行描述性统计、信度分析、探索性因子分析和Process宏观模型分析。结果表明,触摸模拟对虚拟现实商店满意度有正向影响,其中介作用为自我效能感,并通过自我效能感与愉悦感的双重路径。此外,触觉模拟和愉悦之间的关系受到触觉需求的调节。对于具有高水平自利性触觉需求的个体,触觉模拟对愉悦感的影响更大。然而,触摸的工具性需要并没有调节触摸模拟对自我效能的影响。
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引用次数: 1
Evaluation of 3D apparel design spatial visualization training for cognitive function of older adults: cross-cultural comparisons 三维服装设计空间可视化训练对老年人认知功能的评价:跨文化比较
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-10-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00292-x
Hyo Jung Julie Chang, Seoha Min

This study examined how older adults of four different ethnic groups evaluate the spatial visualization training using 3D apparel design software. The model tested was derived from the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) and a Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT). A quantitative research design with an online questionnaire using the purposive quota sampling was used. Structure equation modeling and ANOVAs were performed to test the hypotheses with 600 completed data. The result shows significant ethnic differences of the perceptions, attitude, and behavioral intention for our spatial visualization training. Especially, Asian Americans found the training easy to be involved with and were more likely to use it, whereas Caucasian Americans felt the training to be most difficult and were less likely to use it, compared to other ethnic groups. Also, perceived ease of use and the performance expectancy are cardinal in increasing the positive attitude toward the training. This study discovered the significant factors influencing the intention to use the apparel design virtual technology to improve cognitive functioning. The ethical differences found on the latent variables among four ethnic groups indicate the need of more thoughtful training development by considering the different cultural requirements and challenges.

本研究考察了四个不同民族的老年人如何评价三维服装设计软件的空间可视化训练。所测试的模型来源于技术接受模型(TAM)和技术接受与使用统一理论(UTAUT)。采用有目的的定额抽样,采用在线问卷的定量研究设计。采用结构方程模型和方差分析对600份完整数据进行假设检验。结果显示,不同种族对空间可视化训练的认知、态度和行为意向存在显著差异。特别是,亚裔美国人觉得培训很容易参与,更有可能使用它,而白人美国人觉得培训最难,与其他种族相比,不太可能使用它。此外,感知易用性和绩效期望是提高培训积极态度的主要因素。本研究发现影响使用服装设计虚拟技术改善认知功能意愿的显著因素。四个民族在潜在变量上的伦理差异表明,需要考虑到不同的文化要求和挑战,进行更加周到的培训开发。
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引用次数: 1
Development of cellulosic-based hemostatic dressing with antibacterial activity 具有抗菌活性的纤维素基止血敷料的研制
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00305-9
Mostafa Goodarz, Amir Behzadnia, Hassan Mohammadi

A cotton-based hemostatic dressing featuring antibacterial properties was developed with the potential of being used in traffic accidents to control hemorrhage. Cotton gauze was oxidized initially in an acidic medium and then coated by PVA nanofibers and/or PVA nanofibers loaded with Ciprofloxacin. Fabricated dressings were characterized by FTIR analysis and SEM images. The FTIR spectrum showed the existence of carboxyl groups on the oxidized cotton gauze's surface. The carboxyl groups content was estimated to be 17.3 ± 0.3 for the oxidized sample with a mixture of nitric acid and phosphoric acid for 24 h (OCF-Mixed acid24). Moreover, the effect of the exposure duration of cotton gauze in the acidic medium on the blood coagulation activity was assessed. It was observed that the OCF-Mixed acid24 sample exhibited an agreeable hemostatic activity (BCIs = 10). The antibacterial activity against E. coli and S. aureus bacteria was also captured for the coated cotton gauze by the PVA nanofibers loaded with Ciprofloxacin.

开发了一种具有抗菌性能的棉基止血敷料,具有在交通事故中控制出血的潜力。首先在酸性介质中氧化棉纱,然后用PVA纳米纤维和/或负载环丙沙星的PVA纳米纤维包覆棉纱。用FTIR和SEM对敷料进行了表征。红外光谱分析表明,氧化棉纱网表面存在羧基。用硝酸和磷酸混合24 h (OCF-Mixed acid24)氧化样品,羧基含量估计为17.3±0.3。此外,还评估了棉纱布在酸性介质中暴露时间对凝血活性的影响。观察到ocf -混合酸24样品具有良好的止血活性(bci = 10)。采用环丙沙星负载的聚乙烯醇纳米纤维包被棉纱,并对大肠杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌进行了抑菌活性测定。
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引用次数: 0
Triangulation proves Geum brocade with the horizontal loom of Gojoseon Gojosen水平织机三角剖分Geum织锦
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5
Jisu Kim, Young-Joo Na

Geum (錦, Jin) is a jacquard brocade silk fabric (or doubled~tripled woven) with multi-colored warps. Because patterns are shown by colored yarns of overlapping warp layers, it is dense and stiff, making bulky silhouette of layerlook suitable in cool or dry weather. This fabric is completely different from the drape and lightweight low-density plain weave of ‘China silk’. KyungGeum (經錦, warp direction color yarns) requires a high level of weaving technology, different from WiGeum(緯錦, weft direction color yarns). Geums excavated in Louran and Niya of Xinjiang Autonomous Region, Astana, Pazyrik and Noin-Ula have the pattern of animal flock style of Northern people. The purpose of this study is to find out who wove these Geum fabrics by the triangulation of literatures, relics and loom technology. The pattern was quite complex, so a horizontal and rectangular type of loom or a special loom ‘JeHwa-Ru(製華樓)’ were required. Since the ‘Warring States Period(戰國時代)’ of China, all Han (漢) looms were oblique looms with one heald and KyungGeum production was impossible with these looms. The same is true for vertical looms in Central Asia. Also, the Odes(詩經) and the Shujing(書經) told that barbarian and bandits had weaved KyungGeum. Geum as the special products of Goguryeo and Silla it was exported to China and Japan. Therefore it is reasonable to regard the KyungGeum relics of Niya and of Louran as those from Gojoseon, Goguryeo, Silla(Seres) of Korea, as a result of comprehensive examining the year of production, historical documents, pattern symbolism and loom types.

锦是一种多色经线的提花锦丝织物(或两倍~三倍编织)。因为图案是由重叠经纱层的彩色纱线显示的,它是致密和坚硬的,使层的粗大轮廓看起来适合在凉爽或干燥的天气。这种织物完全不同于“中国丝绸”的垂坠和轻质低密度平纹织物。京锦(经向色线)不同于京锦(纬向色线),对织造工艺的要求较高。新疆娄然、尼雅、阿斯塔纳、巴济日克、努因乌拉等地出土的金雕具有北方人畜群风格的纹样。本研究旨在透过文献、文物与织机技术的三角分析,找出这些锦布的织者。由于图案非常复杂,所以需要一种卧式和长方形的织机,或者一种特殊的“织布机”。自中国的“战国”以来,所有的汉织机都是斜向织机,只有一个综,用这些织机不可能生产景锦。中亚的立式织机也是如此。此外,《诗经》和《书经》都说,蛮族和土匪编织了京锦。琴是高句丽和新罗的特产,曾出口到中国和日本。因此,从生产年份、历史文献、图案象征、织机种类等方面综合分析,可以认为尼雅和楼兰的景今文物是古朝鲜、高句丽、新罗(新罗)的景今文物。
{"title":"Triangulation proves Geum brocade with the horizontal loom of Gojoseon","authors":"Jisu Kim,&nbsp;Young-Joo Na","doi":"10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5","DOIUrl":"10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5","url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Geum (錦, Jin) is a jacquard brocade silk fabric (or doubled~tripled woven) with multi-colored warps. Because patterns are shown by colored yarns of overlapping warp layers, it is dense and stiff, making bulky silhouette of layerlook suitable in cool or dry weather. This fabric is completely different from the drape and lightweight low-density plain weave of ‘China silk’. KyungGeum (經錦, warp direction color yarns) requires a high level of weaving technology, different from WiGeum(緯錦, weft direction color yarns). Geums excavated in Louran and Niya of Xinjiang Autonomous Region, Astana, Pazyrik and Noin-Ula have the pattern of animal flock style of Northern people. The purpose of this study is to find out who wove these Geum fabrics by the triangulation of literatures, relics and loom technology. The pattern was quite complex, so a horizontal and rectangular type of loom or a special loom ‘JeHwa-Ru(製華樓)’ were required. Since the ‘Warring States Period(戰國時代)’ of China, all Han (漢) looms were oblique looms with one heald and KyungGeum production was impossible with these looms. The same is true for vertical looms in Central Asia. Also, the Odes(詩經) and the Shujing(書經) told that barbarian and bandits had weaved KyungGeum. Geum as the special products of Goguryeo and Silla it was exported to China and Japan. Therefore it is reasonable to regard the KyungGeum relics of Niya and of Louran as those from Gojoseon, Goguryeo, Silla(Seres) of Korea, as a result of comprehensive examining the year of production, historical documents, pattern symbolism and loom types.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":555,"journal":{"name":"Fashion and Textiles","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2022-09-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/counter/pdf/10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48497066","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
UV protection effect of cotton dyed with Flos Sophorae (Sophora Japonica L.) extracted with acid hydrolysis 酸性水解提取的槐花染色棉的紫外线防护效果
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00304-w
Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn

Flos Sophorae extract was hydrolyzed using a mixed solution of methanol, HCl, and water to convert rutin to quercetin for the purpose of enhancing the UV protective effect of dyed cotton. Relative yield (%) of quercetin in the hydrolyzed extract was determined by the percent ratio of the absorbance of untreated Flos Sophorae extract at 359 nm to the absorbance of hydrolyzed extract at 370–371 nm. Quercetin yield was 93.09% when 1 M HCl was applied and 52.03% when 0.5 M HCl was applied, both with 60 min reaction time. The latter was applied in dyeing cotton with the dyebath containing hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract and water by 50:50 or 75:25 ratio. By dyeing with hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract the UPF value of cotton was enhanced to 13.80 indicating 92.76% blockage of the UV rays as opposed to 84.78% blockage by the same fabric without Flos Sophorae dyeing. The present method could produce a light-weight summer cotton with yellow color which could provide a moderate UV protection for daily summer attire.

采用甲醇、盐酸和水的混合溶液对槐花提取物进行水解,将芦丁转化为槲皮素,以增强染色棉的防紫外线效果。槲皮素的相对得率(%)由未处理的槐花提取物在359nm处的吸光度与370 ~ 371nm处的吸光度之比确定。在反应时间为60 min的条件下,1 M HCl的槲皮素得率为93.09%,0.5 M HCl的槲皮素得率为52.03%。将槐花水解液与水按50:50或75:25的比例进行染色。经槐花水解提取物染色后,棉织物的UPF值提高到13.80,对紫外线的阻隔率为92.76%,而未经槐花染色的棉织物对紫外线的阻隔率为84.78%。本方法可以生产出一种重量轻,颜色为黄色的夏季棉,可以为日常夏装提供适度的紫外线防护。
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引用次数: 1
Review on dry film photoresist-based patterning of Ag nanowire flexible electrodes for wearable electronics 可穿戴电子用银纳米线柔性电极干膜光刻技术研究进展
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-09-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00303-x
Byungil Hwang, Paolo Matteini

Silver (Ag) nanowires have attracted significant attention as flexible electrodes for various wearable electronic devices owing to their excellent optical and electrical properties. Patterning is an important step in the fabrication of Ag nanowire electrodes of appropriate size and shape for electronic device applications. Among the various methods to pattern Ag nanowires, photolithography using a liquid photoresist is the most widely used. However, some factors have limited an extensive use of this method, such as the non-uniform thickness of liquid photoresist on large-scale coatings and the requirement of a post-annealing step that limits the application to few polymeric substrates. In turn, these factors affect the successful application of the roll-to-roll fabrication process. Dry film photoresist (DFR), a solid-state film-type photoresist, can enable a fast and simple patterning process at lower temperatures, as DFR-based patterning process only requires a simple lamination step to coat the photoresist on the substrates. The DFR process is performed at a temperature below 80 °C, which enables the application of most polymeric substrates. Furthermore, this process doesn’t involve any additional post-annealing process, which makes it an appropriate technology for the roll-to-roll fabrication process. Owing to the advantages of DFR patterning, several recent studies have focused on this process for Ag nanowires patterning. This review provides an overview of successful examples of Ag nanowire patterning based on the use of DFR, along with the application of patterned Ag nanowires substrates as obtained by this method.

银纳米线由于其优异的光学和电学性能,在各种可穿戴电子器件中作为柔性电极而受到广泛关注。图案化是制备尺寸和形状合适的银纳米线电极的重要步骤。在银纳米线的各种制模方法中,使用液体光刻胶的光刻技术是应用最广泛的。然而,一些因素限制了该方法的广泛使用,例如大规模涂层上液体光刻胶的厚度不均匀,以及对后退火步骤的要求,限制了该方法在少数聚合物基板上的应用。反过来,这些因素影响了卷对卷制造工艺的成功应用。干膜光刻胶(DFR)是一种固态薄膜型光刻胶,可以在较低温度下实现快速简单的图案化过程,因为基于DFR的图案化过程只需要简单的层压步骤就可以将光刻胶涂覆在基材上。DFR工艺在低于80°C的温度下进行,这使得大多数聚合物基板的应用成为可能。此外,该工艺不涉及任何额外的后退火工艺,这使其成为卷对卷制造工艺的合适技术。由于DFR图像化的优点,近年来的研究主要集中在银纳米线的DFR图像化上。本文综述了基于DFR的银纳米线图案化的成功案例,以及通过该方法获得的银纳米线图案化衬底的应用。
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引用次数: 1
Virtual simulation of Yue Opera costumes and fashion design based on Yue Opera elements 基于越剧元素的越剧服饰虚拟仿真及服装设计
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-08-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00300-0
Kaixuan Liu, Shunmuzi Zhou, Chun Zhu, Zhao Lü

Yue Opera is known as the second most important national opera in China. The costume is an important part of the performance of Yue Opera, which carries the culture and history of Yue Opera. The purpose of this paper is to attempt a virtual simulation of Yue Opera costumes through an understanding and analysis of Yue Opera costumes, as well as to use the extracted elements related to Yue Opera costumes for modern fashion design based on Yue Opera costume style. The research method of this paper is to draw 12 sets of traditional costumes of Yue Opera by understanding and studying the costume culture of Yue Opera and transform them into a 3D digital virtual presentation of the costumes. The costume elements are then extracted for costume design so that the designed fashions can reflect the cultural characteristics of Yue Opera, and then virtual simulation technology is used for costume display to realize the dissemination of Yue Opera costume culture. The use of three-dimensional virtual simulation technology to digitize costumes contributes to the preservation and dissemination of Yue Opera costume culture. Secondly, the design of modern fashion using the concept of Yue Opera plays a role in the preservation and dissemination of Yue Opera costume culture.

越剧被认为是中国第二重要的民族戏剧。服装是越剧表演的重要组成部分,它承载着越剧的文化和历史。本文的目的是通过对越剧服饰的理解和分析,尝试对越剧服饰进行虚拟模拟,并将提取的越剧服饰相关元素运用到基于越剧服饰风格的现代服装设计中。本文的研究方法是通过对越剧服饰文化的了解和研究,绘制出12套越剧传统服饰,并将其转化为服装的三维数字虚拟呈现。然后提取服装元素进行服装设计,使设计出的服装能够体现越剧的文化特征,再利用虚拟仿真技术进行服装展示,实现越剧服装文化的传播。利用三维虚拟仿真技术对服装进行数字化,有助于越剧服装文化的保存和传播。其次,运用越剧理念设计现代服饰,对越剧服饰文化起到了保存和传播的作用。
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引用次数: 4
Spatial ability of transitioning 2D to 3D designs in virtual environment: understanding spatial ability in apparel design education 虚拟环境中二维设计向三维设计过渡的空间能力——对服装设计教育中空间能力的理解
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 Social Sciences Pub Date : 2022-08-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00293-w
Anna Moritz, Song-yi Youn

As the apparel industry has been transforming through digital-driven technologies in the apparel design process, the need for students to learn spatial visualization skills specified within a three-dimensional virtual environment is critical. By applying an apparel spatial visualization test into a virtual environment (ASVT-V), the purpose of this study is to examine the three-dimensional visualization skills in a virtual prototype environment of students who are majoring in apparel design and product development at the college level. The dataset was collected from 70 college students and analyzed by adopting correlation and variance analysis (ANOVA). Results from an online survey indicate that their ASVT-V scores were positively related to their general spatial visualization skills measured by a paper folding test. The results also indicate that students who received higher scores on the ASVT-V performed better in apparel design-related courses, while there was no influence on their perceived performance from the number of apparel design-related courses taken. This study provides practical implications for professionals in apparel design and product development education in that they can consider ASVT-V scores to understand and enhance domain-specific spatial visualization skills.

随着服装行业在服装设计过程中通过数字驱动技术进行转型,学生学习三维虚拟环境中指定的空间可视化技能的需求至关重要。本研究采用服装空间可视化测试(ASVT-V),考察服装设计与产品开发专业大学生在虚拟样机环境中的三维可视化能力。数据来源于70名大学生,采用相关方差分析(ANOVA)对数据进行分析。一项在线调查的结果表明,他们的ASVT-V分数与他们通过折纸测试测量的一般空间可视化技能呈正相关。结果还表明,ASVT-V得分越高的学生在服装设计相关课程上的表现越好,而服装设计相关课程的学习次数对其感知成绩没有影响。本研究对服装设计及产品开发教育的专业人员有实际意义,他们可以参考ASVT-V分数来了解和提高特定领域的空间可视化技能。
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引用次数: 1
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Fashion and Textiles
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