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Development of textile pattern design by M. C. Escher’s tessellation technique using chaekgeori icons 用埃舍尔的织纹图案镶嵌技术发展纺织品图案设计
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-04-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00336-w
Mi Hwa An, Ae Ran Jang

The purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the uniqueness and excellence of Korea’s traditional culture among members of the MZ generation (Millennials and generation Z) and explore the possibility of utilizing archetypes of traditional culture in the contemporary context. To that end, this study develops and proposes unique contemporary textile pattern designs applying M. C. Escher’s tessellation technique to the formative characteristics and symbolic meaning of Chaekgeori icons. To develop the designs, this study reviews the previous literature and theoretically considers the concept of Chaekgeori, its formative characteristics, and Escher’s tessellation. After extracting iconsrelated to the themes, stylized iconographic motives were applied to geometric shapes to create repeating units. Then, Escher’s tessellation was applied to these repeats to develop twelve contemporarily reimagined textile patterns. To verify the usability of the developed textile pattern designs in products targeting the MZ generation, in-depth interviews were conducted with the MZ generation living in Jeju. The developed textile patterns were mapped onto the selected items to prove the applicability of the developed textile patterns to the items preferred by the MZ generation. The contribution of this study lies in the fact that it develops unique and contemporary textile pattern designs based on the formative characteristics and symbolic meaning of Chaekgeori icons and maps the designs of fashion items preferred by the MZ generation, thereby raising awareness of the value and excellence of Chaekgeori as a part of Korea’s traditional culture and shedding light on the possibility of using traditional cultural archetypes in contemporary contexts.

本研究的目的是提高MZ世代(千禧一代和Z世代)成员对韩国传统文化独特性和卓越性的认识,并探索在当代背景下利用传统文化原型的可能性。为此,本研究将埃舍尔的镶嵌技术应用于柴格里图案的形成特征和象征意义,发展并提出独特的当代纺织品图案设计。为了发展设计,本研究回顾了以往的文献,并从理论上考虑了Chaekgeori的概念,其形成特征,以及埃舍尔的镶嵌。在提取与主题相关的图像后,将程式化的图像动机应用于几何形状以创建重复单元。然后,埃舍尔的镶嵌应用于这些重复开发了12个当代重新想象的纺织品图案。为了验证开发的纺织品图案设计在针对MZ一代的产品中的可用性,对居住在济州的MZ一代进行了深度访谈。将已开发的纺织品图案映射到所选择的项目上,以证明已开发的纺织品图案对MZ世代所偏爱的项目的适用性。本研究的贡献在于,它基于柴格里标志的形成特征和象征意义,开发出独特的当代纺织品图案设计,并绘制出MZ一代喜欢的时装设计,从而提高人们对柴格里作为韩国传统文化一部分的价值和卓越性的认识,并揭示了在当代背景下使用传统文化原型的可能性。
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引用次数: 0
Improved heating method for shape-memory alloy using carbon nanotube and silver paste 改进了用碳纳米管和银浆加热形状记忆合金的方法
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-04-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00331-1
Sang Jin Kim, Sang Un Kim, Chi Cuong Vu, Joo Yong Kim

Shape memory alloys (SMAs) have a special ability to remember their initial shape and return from operating temperature. For this special ability, there are many studies in the field of smart wearables to replace rigid, heavy, and large electric actuators with SMAs that can be a fabrication. The usual operating method of the SMA is heating the SMA by direct Joule heating with electricity. Although direct Joule heating is fast and easy, there is overshooting, unstable, and high-power consumption. For these issues to use the SMA as textile actuators, this research suggested a heating method with silver paste required lower power consumption and coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes (CNTs) to support heating stability and heat uniformity. The heating method evaluated the efficiency of heat by comparing direct heating and silver layer heating and the uniformity of heat with the infrared images of whether CNTs coated or not. In this research, we reached higher temperatures with lower power than direct Joule heating using wearable heaters manufactured using silver paste. In addition, we confirmed that coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes reduce the temperature imbalance, and improved the heating stability. This research is expected that SMA will be used as a wearable actuator to help develop wearable devices that can move.

形状记忆合金(sma)具有特殊的记忆其初始形状和从工作温度返回的能力。对于这种特殊能力,智能可穿戴设备领域有许多研究,用可制造的sma取代刚性,重型和大型电动执行器。SMA的常用操作方法是用电直接焦耳加热对SMA进行加热。虽然直接焦耳加热快速,容易,但有过冲,不稳定,高功耗。针对这些问题,本研究提出了一种用银浆加热的方法,该方法需要更低的功耗,并在基础织物上涂上碳纳米管(CNTs),以支持加热稳定性和热均匀性。加热方法通过比较直接加热和银层加热以及加热均匀性和是否包覆CNTs的红外图像来评价热的效率。在这项研究中,我们使用银膏制造的可穿戴加热器,以更低的功率达到比直接焦耳加热更高的温度。此外,我们还证实了碳纳米管涂层减少了基本织物的温度不平衡,提高了加热稳定性。该研究预计,SMA将被用作可穿戴驱动器,以帮助开发可移动的可穿戴设备。
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引用次数: 0
Preparation and properties of cotton fabrics dyed by Aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) extract and chitosan 野樱草(Aronia melanocarpa)提取物与壳聚糖染色棉织物的制备及性能研究
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-04-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00334-y
Kyung Hwa Hong

Naturally occurring compounds can be utilized as coloring and finishing agents in environmentally friendly textile products. Aronia melanocarpa (Aronia) fruits (berries) are rich in bioactive compounds such as various form of polyphenolic compounds showing antibacterial and antioxidant, and thus numerous studies have been actively conducted on Aronia berry extract (AE) in recent years. However, most natural compounds including pigments exhibit inferior fixation and fastness when applied to cellulosic fibers. Therefore, in this study, coloring and functional compounds were extracted from Aronia berries and applied with or without chitosan to cotton fabrics to improve dyeability and functionality. The cotton fabrics were treated as follows: dyed with an AE single aqueous solution; dyed with an AE–chitosan mixture; and dyed with AE after being pretreated with a chitosan solution. Cotton fabrics dyed with AE and/or chitosan were investigated for their coloring properties and functionality, such as antibacterial properties and antioxidant capacity. It was proven that AE can be used to dye chitosan pretreated cotton fabrics, obtaining good color properties. Moreover, the cotton fabrics dyed with AE after chitosan pretreatment completely inhibited the growth of bacteria (> 99.9%) and exhibited antioxidant properties.

天然化合物可作为环保型纺织品的着色剂和整理剂。黑桫椤(Aronia melanocarpa, Aronia)果实(浆果)中含有丰富的生物活性物质,如多种形式的多酚类化合物,具有抗菌和抗氧化作用,因此近年来人们对其提取物进行了大量的研究。然而,当应用于纤维素纤维时,包括色素在内的大多数天然化合物表现出较差的固着性和牢度。因此,本研究从野樱莓中提取色素和功能化合物,并在棉织物上添加或不添加壳聚糖,以提高其可染性和功能性。对棉织物进行了如下处理:用AE单水溶液染色;用ae -壳聚糖混合物染色;壳聚糖溶液预处理后用AE染色。研究了AE和壳聚糖染色棉织物的染色性能和抗菌、抗氧化等功能。结果表明,AE可用于壳聚糖预处理棉织物的染色,获得良好的染色性能。壳聚糖预处理后的AE染色棉织物完全抑制了细菌的生长(> 99.9%),并具有抗氧化性能。
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引用次数: 1
The inter-connection of sports bra design attributes and elderly women's perceptions 运动文胸设计属性与老年女性认知的内在联系
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-04-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00335-x
Jie Zhou, Qiwen Emma Lei, Qian Mao, Aosi Wang, Joanne Yip, Jun Zhang

As a sports facility category, a sports bra is regarded as an enabling technology garment with advanced functions and new cultural meanings. Women, particularly elderly women, are encouraged to wear a sports bra during physical activity because wearing a sports bra can not only prevent them from exercise-induced injuries but also increase the acceptance of their bodies. However, most studies usually targeted younger women. The requirements and expectations of elderly women on sports bras differ from younger individuals. Hence, this study aims to advance and explore the design demands, providing insights into age-friendly sports bra design by using more permeable physical and psychological boundaries based on conceptual frameworks. The sports bra evaluation words were extracted and calculated to construct the network. The appearance frequency of keywords, closeness centrality, betweenness centrality, and interconnection between every pair of words were illustrated and analyzed by using semantic-based network analysis. Network analysis deduced that the discomfort of sports bras was closely related with the support, tightness, cup design, and strap design. Beside, thermal management contributes significantly to the comfort. The outlook of a sports bra was associated with cup design. The Page-rank result showed that cup, tightness, hot, straps and quality were the top five important design attributes. The unobservable mechanisms underlying the keywords provide an alternative model, which can help to explore the key improvements for sports bra design.

运动文胸作为一种体育用品,被认为是一种具有先进功能和新的文化内涵的赋能科技服装。女性,尤其是老年女性,被鼓励在体育活动中穿运动文胸,因为穿运动文胸不仅可以防止她们因运动而受伤,还可以增加她们对自己身体的接受度。然而,大多数研究通常针对年轻女性。老年女性对运动文胸的要求和期望与年轻女性有所不同。因此,本研究旨在以概念框架为基础,利用更具渗透性的生理和心理边界,推进和探索适合年龄的运动文胸设计需求,为设计提供见解。对运动文胸评价词进行提取和计算,构建网络。利用基于语义的网络分析,对关键词的出现频率、每对词之间的紧密性中心性、中间性中心性和互联性进行了说明和分析。网络分析推断,运动文胸的不舒适程度与支撑度、松紧度、罩杯设计、肩带设计密切相关。此外,热管理有助于显著的舒适性。运动文胸的外观与罩杯设计有关。Page-rank结果显示,罩杯、紧度、热度、绑带和质量是最重要的五个设计属性。关键词的不可观察机制提供了另一种模型,可以帮助探索运动胸罩设计的关键改进。
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引用次数: 0
A latent approach in the fashion retailing context: segmenting co-creator users 时尚零售领域的一个潜在方法是:细分共同创造者用户
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-03-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00323-7
Carlota Lorenzo-Romero, María-del-Carmen Alarcón-del-Amo, Marta Frasquet-Deltoro

Co-creation activities have shown dramatic development somewhat recently. The initial step of a productive co-creation technique originates from a comprehension of people’s practices inside of these websites. Based on the limited knowledge of online co-creation behaviour in the retail sector, particularly in fashion retailing, this study develops a latent class segmentation analysis that allows examining the diversity of co-creation behaviours. Thus, the main objective of this paper is to analyse the heterogeneity of co-creators’ behaviours in the online retail environment. This study examines different indicators that determine the co-creation behaviour of users such as co-creation value and activities, engagement with the company/brand, satisfaction with the co-creation process, intention to continue co-creating) in the Spanish fashion sector. Three different segments have been obtained: “full co-creator”, “co-creator oriented to the company/brand” and “co-creator oriented to other people” that show three distinct ways of co-creating with a fashion firm. The findings offer fashion retailers an interesting perspective for attracting customers to co-creation ventures during the fashion online shopping process.

共同创造活动最近有了很大的发展。富有成效的共同创造技术的第一步源于对人们在这些网站内的实践的理解。基于对零售业(尤其是时尚零售业)在线共同创造行为的有限了解,本研究开发了一种潜在的阶级分割分析,可以检查共同创造行为的多样性。因此,本文的主要目的是分析在线零售环境中共同创造者行为的异质性。本研究考察了决定用户共同创造行为的不同指标,如共同创造价值和活动、与公司/品牌的互动、对共同创造过程的满意度、继续共同创造的意愿)。得到了“全面共同创造者”、“以公司/品牌为导向的共同创造者”和“以他人为导向的共同创造者”三个不同的细分,展示了与时尚公司共同创造的三种不同方式。这些发现为时尚零售商在时尚在线购物过程中吸引顾客参与共同创造企业提供了一个有趣的视角。
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引用次数: 1
New 3D knitted absorbent pad for a prospective safer and ecological reusable baby diaper 新的3D针织吸收垫,未来更安全,生态可重复使用的婴儿尿布
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-03-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00329-9
Rahma Tilouche, Faten Debbabi, Adnene Gharbi, Jun Xu, Lei Jiang, Mohamed Ben Hassen

Disposable diaper is one of the most polluting products in the world and presents many potential health risks for children. In this paper, to avoid those diaper problems, propose a safer reusable baby diaper with the same performances as disposable diapers with non-harmful materials. A comparative study has been conducted on the developed 3D knitted reusable diaper and some commercial disposable diapers including the most popular diaper goods. Thus, diaper performances have been measured and limit values have been checked. The obtained results prove that the properties of the developed reusable diaper are comparable to those of the disposable baby’s diapers available on the market. Finally, using chromatography analysis, we prove the non-harmful compounds in the developed baby diaper. For further investigation, a a new design of the risk assessment matrix related the menace trigger has been also prepared. The developed reusable diaper can be a promising alternative of the diaper with an efficient quality and functionality.

一次性纸尿裤是世界上污染最严重的产品之一,对儿童存在许多潜在的健康风险。为了避免纸尿裤的这些问题,本文提出了一种更安全的可重复使用的婴儿纸尿裤,其性能与一次性纸尿裤相同,使用无害材料。将所研制的三维针织可重复使用纸尿裤与目前市面上最流行的纸尿裤进行了对比研究。因此,纸尿裤的性能已经测量和限值已经检查。实验结果表明,所研制的可重复使用纸尿裤的性能与市场上现有的一次性婴儿纸尿裤相当。最后,通过色谱分析,证实了所研制的婴儿纸尿裤中无有害成分。为了进一步研究,本文还设计了一种新的与威胁触发相关的风险评估矩阵。所开发的可重复使用纸尿裤具有高效的质量和功能,是纸尿裤的一个很有前途的替代品。
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引用次数: 0
Determination of penetration and protection of fatty acids in bleached hair according to the fatty acid chain length and the application to understanding the protective effects of MCT oil and coconut oil 根据脂肪酸链长确定脂肪酸在漂白头发中的渗透和保护作用,并将其应用于了解 MCT 油和椰子油的保护作用
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-03-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00332-0
Suhwan Kim, Cheunsoon Ahn

Hair treatments containing vegetable oils protect the damaged hair by surface coating and by penetrating in hair thereby filling the gaps caused by oxidative damage. Vegetable oil is composed mostly of medium-chain or long-chain fatty acids which exist as triglycerides. Although there are literatures which deal with the penetration of specific natural oils into hair there is a lack of research which provide the empirical data that can be used to explain the penetration of larger population of vegetable oils. This research was aimed to examine whether the chain length of fatty acid affect the penetration of fatty acid and protection in hair and also to apply the results on explaining the protective effect of Medium-Chain Triglyceride oil (MCT oil) and Coconut oil. Nine different hair treatments were formulated with three medium-chain fatty acids (C8:0, C10:0, C12:0), three long-chain fatty acids (C14:0, C16:0, C18:0), MCT oil, Coconut oil, and a blank. Composition of fatty acids of hair was examined by the Gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Penetration of fatty acid in hair was examined by the UV–VIS spectrophotometry. Protection of damaged hair was examined by the differences in color, tensile strength, thickness, and the concentration of protein leak of 21-day vs. 0-day measurements. Results of t-test indicated that the penetration and the protection of the medium-chain fatty acid was significantly better than those of the long-chain fatty acid, and that MCT oil and coconut oil were not significantly different.

含有植物油的护发产品通过表面涂层和渗透头发来保护受损头发,从而填补氧化损伤造成的空隙。植物油主要由以甘油三酯形式存在的中链或长链脂肪酸组成。虽然有文献论述了特定天然油脂对头发的渗透性,但缺乏可用于解释更多植物油渗透性的经验数据。本研究旨在探讨脂肪酸链的长度是否会影响脂肪酸在头发中的渗透和保护作用,并将研究结果用于解释中链甘油三酯油(MCT 油)和椰子油的保护作用。用三种中链脂肪酸(C8:0、C10:0、C12:0)、三种长链脂肪酸(C14:0、C16:0、C18:0)、MCT 油、椰子油和空白配制了九种不同的头发护理剂。头发脂肪酸的组成采用气相色谱质谱法进行检测。用紫外-可见分光光度法检测头发中脂肪酸的渗透性。通过 21 天与 0 天测量结果在颜色、拉伸强度、厚度和蛋白质泄漏浓度方面的差异,检验对受损头发的保护作用。t 检验结果表明,中链脂肪酸的渗透性和保护性明显优于长链脂肪酸,而 MCT 油和椰子油没有明显差异。
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引用次数: 0
An experimental and numerical investigation of energy absorption of sportswear in seam area 运动服装在缝区吸能的实验与数值研究
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-03-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00330-2
Ali Sajjadi, Seyed Abdolkarim Hosseini, Saeed Ajeli, Mohammad Mashayekhi

This study aims to investigate the energy absorption of seam areas in sportswear. Weft knitted fabrics with two structures of plain and rib were fabricated by polyester/Lycra and viscose/ Lycra yarns. Fabrics were stitched in two stitch classes. Moreover, two types of seams were considered. A pull-out test was carried out on all samples to determine the energy absorption values. Furthermore, a finite element model was applied to predict the energy absorption of each structure. The unit cell of each sample was created in ABAQUS software and the tensile load was applied to the stitch yarn. The unit cells of the fabric and the stitched section were modeled in the meso-scale and then elastic and viscoelastic properties of the yarns were assigned to the model. The energy absorption of the sample with rib pattern, lapped seam, and 607 stitch class was more than other samples. Also, the numerical and experimental results showed a high correlation with each other in samples with 304 stitch class and flat seam type.

本研究旨在探讨运动服装接缝部位的能量吸收。以涤纶/莱卡纱和粘胶/莱卡纱为原料,制备了平纹和罗纹两种结构的纬编针织物。织物用两种针法缝制。此外,还考虑了两种类型的接缝。对所有样品进行拉出试验,以确定能量吸收值。此外,采用有限元模型对各结构的能量吸收进行了预测。在ABAQUS软件中创建每个样品的单元格,并对针纱施加拉伸载荷。在细观尺度上对织物和缝合段的单元胞进行建模,并对纱线的弹性和粘弹性特性进行建模。罗纹、搭缝、607针级的吸能效果较好。数值与实验结果均表明,在304缝级与平缝类型的样品中,两者具有较高的相关性。
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引用次数: 0
From brick-and-mortar to livestream shopping: product information acquisition from the uncertainty reduction perspective 从实体到直播购物:减少不确定性视角下的产品信息获取
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-02-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00327-3
Joohye Hwang, Song-yi Youn

This study investigates how livestream fashion shopping is associated with brick-and-mortar shopping, focusing on product uncertainty, and examines livestreaming’s role in reducing product uncertainty and promoting consumers’ purchase intention by adopting the Uncertainty reduction theory (URT). The study identifies the three product information sources (i.e., product demonstration, interaction with the seller, and other viewers’ reviews) that consumers use in livestream shopping via uncertainty-reducing strategies. PLS results (n = 292) indicate that consumers who rely on salespeople’s assistance as a product information source in brick-and-mortar shopping showed a positive perception of the two product information sources—interaction with the seller and other viewers’ reviews—in livestream shopping. The seller’s product demonstration played a significant role in reducing product uncertainty and subsequently affected purchase intention, while the other two information sources (i.e., interaction with the seller and other viewers’ reviews) affected the purchase intention directly. The findings extend the URT to improve our understanding of consumer information attainment in the livestream shopping context and exemplify a promising future for livestream fashion shopping by investigating its features that can potentially substitute for the brick-and-mortar shopping experience. Future studies can include motivational factors (i.e., service and/or technical barriers) in the model.

本研究以产品的不确定性为重点,探讨了直播时尚购物与实体购物之间的关系,并采用不确定性减少理论(URT)考察了直播在降低产品不确定性和促进消费者购买意愿方面的作用。该研究通过减少不确定性的策略确定了消费者在直播购物中使用的三种产品信息源(即产品演示、与卖家的互动以及其他观众的评论)。PLS结果(n = 292)表明,在实体店购物中依赖销售人员帮助作为产品信息源的消费者在直播购物中对两种产品信息源——与卖家的互动和其他观众的评论——表现出积极的感知。卖家的产品展示对降低产品不确定性有显著作用,进而影响购买意愿,而其他两个信息源(即与卖家的互动和其他观众的评论)直接影响购买意愿。这些发现扩展了URT,以提高我们对消费者在直播购物环境中的信息获取的理解,并通过调查直播时尚购物的特征来说明其有希望的未来,这些特征可能取代实体购物体验。未来的研究可以在模型中包括动机因素(即服务和/或技术壁垒)。
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引用次数: 1
Clothing pressure analysis of commercial women's leggings for applying medical compression classes 应用医用压缩类的商业妇女紧身裤的服装压力分析
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-02-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00324-6
Jeongeun Lee, Wolhee Do

The high-elasticity bottoms applying gradual pressurization to the blood vessels of the lower extremities simultaneously assisting to both prevention and treatment of multiple health conditions such as varicose veins. Medical compression stockings are classified as medical supplies, and there is a clear standard on magnitude and application for gradual pressure. However, in the case of leggings, there are no relevant experimental data or papers supporting these findings. This study was performed in order to analyse the gradual compression values in legging. Eight types of leggings currently available on the market by different brands, were analysed to determine the type of pressure applied. The pressure was measured at five points of the clothed body with leggings pulled across lower extremities. An airpack sensor was attached to a wooden leg model and five consecutive records at each measuring point were taken. Afterwards the average values were calculated. As observed in all eight leggings, the measuring point with the highest pressure applied was the back of the calf (mean 18.25 mmHg) or the below the knee circumference (mean 13.83 mmHg), pointing to deviance in applying gradual pressure as proposed in medical compression stockings. The commercial leggings used in this experiment did not show a gradual increase in pressure from the thigh to the ankle body zone. One can presume that the legs’ fatigue would increase over the time. Since, the gradual pressure should be applied in legging construction as seen in medical compression stockings.

高弹性底对下肢血管逐渐加压,同时有助于预防和治疗多种健康状况,如静脉曲张。医用加压长袜属于医疗用品,对逐步加压的大小和应用有明确的标准。然而,就打底裤而言,没有相关的实验数据或论文支持这些发现。本研究是为了分析legging的逐渐压缩值。目前市场上有八种不同品牌的打底裤,分析了它们所受压力的类型。在穿着衣服的身体的五个点测量压力,并在下肢拉上打底裤。在木腿模型上安装气包传感器,在每个测点连续记录5次。然后计算平均值。在所有八种打底裤中观察到,施加最大压力的测量点是小腿背部(平均18.25 mmHg)或膝盖周围以下(平均13.83 mmHg),这表明在医用压缩袜中建议的逐渐施加压力的偏差。在这个实验中使用的商业打底裤并没有显示从大腿到脚踝身体区域的压力逐渐增加。人们可以推测,随着时间的推移,腿的疲劳会增加。因此,逐渐的压力应该应用于绑腿结构,如在医用压缩袜。
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引用次数: 1
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