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Effect of surfactant type on the dyeability and color resistance of semi-permanent basic hair dye 表面活性剂类型对半永久性碱性染发剂可染性和耐色性的影响
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-01-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00326-4
Kyeoungsook Yun, Cheunsoon Ahn

Basic Brown 16 pigment and three types of surfactants were used to prepare the cationic, nonionic, and anionic basic hair dyes. White hair and bleached hair were dyed using the three basic hair dyes and were shampooed 10 times using acidic, neutral, and alkaline shampoos prepared in the study. White hair and bleached hair dyed with the anionic basic hair dye resulted in a lower L*, a*, b* values and lower K/S values compared to the hair dyed with the cationic and nonionic basic hair dyes and the results were statistically significant at α = 0.05. Hair dyed with the anionic basic hair dye showed significantly higher ΔL*, Δa*, Δb*, and ΔE*ab values after 10 times of shampooing than those dyed with cationic and nonionic basic hair dyes (α = 0.05), indicating a lower color resistance for the anionic basic hair dye. Color difference after shampooing was significantly higher when alkaline shampoo was used (α = 0.05). Overall, the color difference after shampooing occurred more by the type of dye than by the type of shampoo.

用碱性棕16颜料和三种表面活性剂分别制备了阳离子、非离子和阴离子碱性染发剂。使用三种基本染发剂对白发和漂白后的头发进行染色,并使用研究中制备的酸性、中性和碱性洗发水洗发10次。与阳离子和非离子碱性染发剂染发相比,阴离子碱性染发剂染发后的白发和漂白头发的L*、a*、b*值和K/S值均较低,差异均有统计学意义(α = 0.05)。经10次洗发后,阴离子碱性染发剂染发后的ΔL*、Δa*、Δb*、ΔE*ab值显著高于阳离子和非离子碱性染发剂染发后的ab值(α = 0.05),表明阴离子碱性染发剂的耐色性较低。洗发后色差显著高于碱性洗发后色差(α = 0.05)。总的来说,洗发后的颜色差异更多是由染料的类型而不是洗发水的类型引起的。
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引用次数: 0
Development and performance of jacquard woven retro-reflective textiles with African design patterns 非洲图案提花织物反光织物的研制与性能
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-01-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00322-8
Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Sun Young Choi, Shouxiang Jiang

Retro-reflective materials are important for safety purposes, such as enhancing the visibility of pedestrians at night when they wear garments with reflective materials and therefore reducing pedestrian fatalities. This has challenged different manufacturers to produce effective materials that provide the best retro-reflection. Most of these materials are applied as stripes on clothing, but can also extend to artisans using reflective yarns in their creations. Nevertheless, there is a lack of research and the synthesis of reflective yarns and African design patterns (due to its symbolic value for the African people) to create effective textiles that have the necessary properties for visibility at night. In this research work, a new approach is adopted by using a design process that combines jacquard weaving technology, reflective threads and African design patterns to produce retro-reflective textiles. The subsequent reflective effects captured in a darkroom show the retro-reflective ability of the samples. The testing carried out by using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics shows that the total hand value (THV) of the samples makes them suitable for men’s winter dress shirts and women’s thin winter dresses (with positive values) but not suitable for the summer garment (with negative values) counterparts respectively. This new approach might extend the ideation to produce retro-reflective textiles that can be applied for many different uses.

反光材料对安全来说很重要,例如,当行人在夜间穿着带有反光材料的衣服时,可以提高他们的能见度,从而减少行人的死亡人数。这对不同的制造商提出了挑战,要求他们生产出能够提供最佳反光效果的有效材料。这些材料大多用作衣服上的条纹,但也可以扩展到工匠在他们的创作中使用反光纱线。然而,缺乏对反光纱线和非洲设计图案(由于其对非洲人民的象征价值)的研究和合成,以创造具有夜间能见度必要特性的有效纺织品。在这项研究工作中,采用了一种新的方法,将提花编织技术、反光线和非洲设计图案相结合的设计过程,生产出复古反光纺织品。随后在暗室中拍摄的反射效果显示了样品的反向反射能力。利用川端县面料评价系统进行测试,样品的总手值(THV)分别适合男士冬季礼服衬衫和女士冬季薄裙(正值),不适合夏装(负值)。这种新方法可能会扩展到生产可用于许多不同用途的反光纺织品的想法。
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引用次数: 2
Fabrication of polyester fabrics with tungsten bronze nanorods and a silane coupling agent for improved thermal storage and washing durability 用钨青铜纳米棒和硅烷偶联剂制备聚酯织物,以提高储热性和洗涤耐久性
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-01-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00310-y
Ye-eun Woo, Kyung Wha Oh

The thermal storage and washing durability of polyester fabrics treated with tungsten bronze nanorods(TBNRs) were analyzed to determine the optimal concentration for the photothermal effect in this study. TBNRs with an average length of 34.0 ± 2.5 nm and a diameter of 2.3 ± 0.4 nm were synthesized by the thermal decomposition of Ammonium metatungstate hydrate(AMT) in oleylamine (OA) to generate TBNRs that are capable of emitting heat by efficiently absorbing light in the near-infrared region. The effect of TBNR concentration and the silane coupling agent on the photothermal effect and washing durability of the PET fabric were evaluated with a solar simulator. As a result, as the concentration of TBNRs increased, the photothermal effect increased, and the maximum photothermal effect was shown at 5 wt%. In addition, washing durability were further improved by adding 0.5 wt% silane counpling agent. Overall, the post-processing treatment effectively increased the photothermal effect without a significant change in the physical properties and color of the polyester.

分析了钨青铜纳米棒(TBNRs)处理涤纶织物的储热性能和洗涤耐久性,以确定其光热效果的最佳浓度。利用偏钨酸铵水合物(AMT)在油胺(OA)中的热分解,合成了平均长度为34.0±2.5 nm,直径为2.3±0.4 nm的tbnr,该tbnr通过在近红外区有效吸收光来发射热量。利用太阳模拟器研究了TBNR浓度和硅烷偶联剂对涤纶织物光热效应和洗涤耐久性的影响。结果表明,随着tbnr浓度的增加,光热效应增强,在5 wt%时光热效应最大。此外,添加0.5 wt%硅烷偶联剂可进一步提高洗涤耐久性。总的来说,后处理有效地增加了光热效应,而聚酯的物理性能和颜色没有明显变化。
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引用次数: 2
Evaluation and trend of fashion design research: visualization analysis based on CiteSpace 服装设计研究的评价与趋势——基于CiteSpace的可视化分析
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00316-6
Yixin Zou, Sarawuth Pintong, Tao Shen, Ding-Bang Luh

Fashion or apparel refers to a topic discussed publicly as an indispensable discipline on a day-to-day basis, which has aroused rising attention from academic sessions over the past two decades. However, since the topic of fashion design covers knowledge in extensive ranges and considerable information, scholars have not fully grasped the research field of fashion design, and the research lacks directional guidance. To gain more insights into the existing research status and fronts in the fashion design field, this study conducts a quantitative literature analysis. The research of this study is conducted by employing CiteSpace technology to visualize and analyze 1388 articles regarding “fashion design” in the Web of Science (WOS) Core Collection. To be specific, the visualization and the analysis concentrate on the annual number of articles, author collaboration, institutional collaboration, literature citations, keywords clustering, and research trend evolution of the mentioned articles. As highlighted by this study, the effect of the US and the UK on academic research in fashion design is relatively stronger and extensive. Sustainable fashion refers to the research topic having aroused more attention since 2010, while new research topics over the past few years consist of “wearable fashion”, “transgender fashion” and “medical fashion”. The overall research trend of fashion design is developing as interdisciplinary cross research. This study systematically reviews the relevant literature, classifies the existing research status, research hotspots and frontier trends in the academic field of “fashion design”, and presents the knowledge map and information of literature for researchers in relevant fields.

时尚或服装是指作为日常生活中不可或缺的学科而被公开讨论的话题,在过去的二十年里,它引起了越来越多的学术会议的关注。然而,由于服装设计这一课题涉及的知识范围广,信息量大,学者们对服装设计的研究领域还没有完全掌握,研究缺乏方向性指导。为了更深入地了解服装设计领域的研究现状和前沿,本研究进行了定量的文献分析。本研究采用CiteSpace技术对Web of Science (WOS)核心馆藏中1388篇关于“服装设计”的文章进行可视化分析。具体而言,可视化和分析主要集中在年度论文数量、作者合作、机构合作、文献被引、关键词聚类、研究趋势演变等方面。正如本研究所强调的那样,美国和英国对服装设计学术研究的影响相对更强、更广泛。可持续时尚是指2010年以来比较受关注的研究课题,而过去几年新的研究课题包括“可穿戴时尚”、“跨性别时尚”和“医疗时尚”。服装设计的总体研究趋势是跨学科交叉研究。本研究系统梳理了相关文献,对“服装设计”学术领域的研究现状、研究热点和前沿趋势进行了分类,为相关领域的研究者呈现了知识地图和文献信息。
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引用次数: 1
Wearable capacitive pressure sensor using interdigitated capacitor printed on fabric 采用织物上印制的叉指电容器的可穿戴电容式压力传感器
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00320-w
TranThuyNga Truong, Ji-Seon Kim, Eunji Yeun, Jooyong Kim

This paper presented a systematic approach to electro-textile pressure sensors dependent on interdigitated capacitors (IDCs) printed on fabric. In this study, we proposed a highly sensitive, broad-range pressure sensor based on the combination of porous Ecoflex, carbon nanotubes (CNTs), and interdigitated electrodes. Firstly, characterizations of the interdigitated capacitor using silver ink on Cotton and Polyester fabric were completed by precision LCR meter across the frequency range from 1 to 300 kHz. The effect of the fabric on the performance of sensor sensitivity was included. Secondly, estimating and optimizing the volume fraction of CNTs and air gaps on the properties of composites are included. The presence of volume fraction CNTs enhanced the bond strength of composites and improved sensor deformability. The robustness of the presented sensor was demonstrated by testing under high pressure at 400 kPa for more than 20,000 cycles. Thirdly, the combination of CNTs and porous dielectric achieved a broad detection range (400 kPa) with a sensitivity range from 0.035 (at 400 kPa) to 0.15 ({mathrm{KPa}}^{-1}) (at 50 kPa). Finally, the Cotton and Polyester substrate comparison demonstrates that selecting a suitable dielectric substrate affects sensor sensitivity and signal output.

本文提出了一种基于印制在织物上的交叉电容(IDCs)的电纺织压力传感器的系统方法。在这项研究中,我们提出了一种基于多孔Ecoflex、碳纳米管(CNTs)和交叉指状电极组合的高灵敏度、宽量程压力传感器。首先,利用高精度LCR仪在1 ~ 300 kHz的频率范围内,用银墨水在棉和涤纶织物上完成了交叉电容的表征。考虑了织物对传感器灵敏度性能的影响。其次,估算和优化了CNTs的体积分数和气隙对复合材料性能的影响。体积分数CNTs的存在增强了复合材料的结合强度,改善了传感器的变形能力。在400千帕的高压下进行了超过20,000次的测试,证明了该传感器的稳健性。第三,CNTs与多孔介质的结合实现了较宽的检测范围(400 kPa),灵敏度范围从0.035 (400 kPa)到0.15 ({mathrm{KPa}}^{-1}) (50 kPa)。最后,通过对棉质衬底和聚酯衬底的比较表明,选择合适的介质衬底会影响传感器的灵敏度和信号输出。
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引用次数: 4
Exploring personalized fashion design process using an emotional data visualization method 运用情感数据可视化方法探索个性化服装设计过程
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00321-9
Na Ma, Jieun Kim, Jee Hyun Lee

In recent years, rapid economic growth and a rising personal income have increased the demand for personalized services. To address this demand, the fashion industry and academia are increasingly analyzing and developing methods to provide personalized fashion design products. This study investigated an emotional data and data visualization-based design method for personalized fashion products. By visualizing emotions and involving consumers, we generated experimental designs to encourage interpersonal and emotional communication. In addition, we proposed methods for visualizing 28 levels of emotion in design elements, as well as a generative design process based on emotional and personal text messages. In fashion products, we used color and print to match the emotion and intensity of the emotion. As a result, 40 design experiment participants rated personalized fashion design tools, outcomes, and purchase intention positively. The highest score was received by the average value for expression of personality (4.43), purchase intention (4.38), and preference and recommendation (4.42). Consequently, this study could be applied to the use of personal data in generative fashion design, as well as the systemization of the data-driven design method for personalized and participatory fashion design.

近年来,经济的快速增长和个人收入的增加增加了对个性化服务的需求。为了满足这一需求,时装界和学术界越来越多地分析和开发提供个性化时装设计产品的方法。本研究探讨了一种基于情感数据和数据可视化的个性化时尚产品设计方法。通过将情感可视化并让消费者参与进来,我们创造了鼓励人际和情感交流的实验设计。此外,我们提出了在设计元素中可视化28个情感层次的方法,以及基于情感和个人文本信息的生成设计过程。在时尚产品中,我们用颜色和印花来匹配情感和情感的强度。结果,40名设计实验参与者对个性化时装设计工具、结果和购买意愿给予了积极的评价。个性表现平均分(4.43分)、购买意向平均分(4.38分)、喜好推荐平均分(4.42分)得分最高。因此,本研究可以应用于个人数据在生成式服装设计中的应用,以及数据驱动设计方法在个性化和参与式服装设计中的系统化。
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引用次数: 0
Purchase intention toward sustainable masks after COVID-19: the moderating role of health concern COVID-19后可持续口罩的购买意愿:健康担忧的调节作用
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00317-5
Sae Eun Lee, Seo Jeong Kim, Kyung Wha Oh, Kyu-Hye Lee

This study aimed to investigate consumers’ intentions to purchase sustainable masks to reduce the environmental pollution caused by disposable masks in the context of COVID-19. A research model was derived based on the Value-Belief-Norm theory and the Theory of Planned Behavior, and the moderating role of health concerns and environmental knowledge due to the COVID-19 pandemic were examined. Through a Korean online survey company, we collected data on sustainable masks from respondents aged from their 20 s to 50 s, living in the Korea, and a structural equation analysis was performed on the 337 valid samples. Environmental concerns and beliefs were found to have a positive impact on the purchase intention on sustainable masks. Although environmental knowledge played the role of a moderator, we found that the higher the health concern, the stronger the purchase intention. Based on these results, it is possible to derive a strategy to increase the purchase of sustainable masks and reduce the environmental pollution caused by disposable masks. A sales strategy should be implemented for groups with high health concern. In addition, since the subjective norm increases the purchase intention for sustainable masks, advertising that stimulates them will help reduce environmental pollution caused by disposal masks. In the future, it will be possible to help reduce environmental pollution not only during the COVID-19 pandemic, but also during other emerging pandemics.

本研究旨在调查消费者在新型冠状病毒肺炎背景下购买可持续口罩的意愿,以减少一次性口罩对环境的污染。基于价值-信念-规范理论和计划行为理论建立研究模型,考察新冠肺炎大流行对健康关注和环境知识的调节作用。通过韩国在线调查公司,我们收集了生活在韩国的20多岁至50多岁的受访者的可持续口罩数据,并对337个有效样本进行了结构方程分析。环境问题和信念对可持续口罩的购买意愿有积极影响。虽然环境知识起到了调节作用,但我们发现健康关注度越高,购买意愿越强。基于这些结果,可以推导出增加可持续口罩购买的策略,减少一次性口罩造成的环境污染。应针对高度关注健康的群体实施销售策略。此外,由于主观规范增加了对可持续口罩的购买意愿,刺激他们的广告将有助于减少处置口罩对环境的污染。未来,它不仅可以在COVID-19大流行期间帮助减少环境污染,还可以在其他新出现的大流行期间帮助减少环境污染。
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引用次数: 2
What factors encourage the acceptance of cosmetic surgery? Differences in sociopsychological influences contingent upon cosmetic surgery experience 哪些因素促使人们接受整容手术?整容手术经验对社会心理影响的差异
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00318-4
Sunwoo Kim

While numerous sociopsychological factors affect one’s acceptance of cosmetic surgery, little is known about the sociopsychological influences that lead to cosmetic surgery acceptance based on one’s prior experience with cosmetic surgery. The present study identified the differences between two groups: women with cosmetic surgery experience and women without prior cosmetic surgery experience. A research model was developed with five hypotheses to identify the four sociopsychological influences on cosmetic surgery acceptance: upward appearance comparison, awareness of an emphasis on beauty ideals, internalization of beauty ideals, and body surveillance. Data were collected from 651 South Korean women in their 20 s to 40 s and were analyzed using second-order confirmatory factor analysis and multi-group structural equation modeling. In the cosmetic surgery group, upward appearance comparison, awareness of an emphasis on beauty ideals, and body surveillance had a positive effect on cosmetic surgery acceptance. Internalization of beauty ideals and body surveillance also had a positive effect on cosmetic surgery acceptance in the no cosmetic surgery group. Additionally, the effects of upward appearance comparison, awareness of an emphasis on beauty ideals, and internalization of beauty ideals on cosmetic surgery acceptance varied significantly between the two groups. The findings add insights on the design of therapeutic programs to prevent cosmetic surgery addiction and education programs to increase body appreciation.

虽然有许多社会心理因素会影响一个人对整容手术的接受程度,但基于一个人之前的整容经验,人们对导致整容手术接受程度的社会心理影响知之甚少。目前的研究确定了两组女性之间的差异:有整容经历的女性和没有整容经历的女性。本文建立了一个包含五个假设的研究模型,以确定对整容接受度的四种社会心理学影响:向上的外表比较、对美的理想的重视、美的理想的内化和身体监督。本研究收集了651名20 - 40岁韩国女性的数据,采用二阶验证性因子分析和多组结构方程模型进行分析。在整容手术组中,向上的外表比较、对美的理想的重视和对身体的监视对整容手术的接受度有积极的影响。在未接受整容手术的组中,美丽理想的内化和身体监控对整容接受度也有积极的影响。此外,外貌上的攀比、对美的理想的重视以及对美的理想的内化对整容手术接受度的影响在两组之间也有显著差异。这些发现为预防整容上瘾的治疗方案的设计和提高对身体欣赏的教育方案提供了见解。
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引用次数: 2
Cloth face mask fit and function for children part two: Material Selection 儿童布口罩的适用性和功能。第二部分:材料的选择
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00315-7
Katarina Goodge, Jenny Leigh Du Puis, Mona Maher, Margaret W. Frey, Fatma Baytar, Heeju Park

The second component of this three-paper series studying cloth face masks for children ages 4 to 6 years old concentrates on optimizing aerosol capture and air permeability through fabric selection. Material choices were evaluated in two modes: Flat Filter (FF) and Head Form (HF). FF isolates material factors while HF simulates the performance of the constructed masks on a 3D printed child head form. In FF mode, higher filtration efficiency correlated to lower air permeability in both reusable commercial and experimental face masks regardless of fiber contents, fabric structures, and number of layers. Our prototype face mask developed in design exploration successfully captured 37 ± 12% of 0.3 μm, 87 ± 3% of 0.5 μm, and 87 ± 2% of 1.0 μm particles while maintaining good air permeability, moisture capture, and aerosolized salt capture in HF mode. Sealing masks to minimize outward leakage reduced particle capture up to 64%. Particle leakage data captured at the eye level of the head form illuminated the synergy between mask design, material choice, and fit.

这三篇研究4 - 6岁儿童布口罩的系列论文的第二部分集中在通过织物选择优化气溶胶捕获和透气性。材料选择评估两种模式:平面过滤器(FF)和头部形式(HF)。FF隔离材料因素,而HF在3D打印儿童头部形式上模拟构建面具的性能。在FF模式下,无论纤维含量、织物结构和层数如何,可重复使用的商业口罩和实验口罩的过滤效率越高,透气性越低。我们在设计探索中开发的原型面罩成功地捕获了0.3 μm的37±12%,0.5 μm的87±3%和1.0 μm的87±2%的颗粒,同时在HF模式下保持了良好的透气性,水分捕获和雾化盐捕获。密封口罩最大限度地减少向外泄漏减少颗粒捕获高达64%。在头部形式的眼睛水平处捕获的颗粒泄漏数据阐明了面罩设计,材料选择和适合之间的协同作用。
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引用次数: 0
Examination of current U.S. female firefighting personal protective equipment (PPE) sizing and fitting process challenges: an opportunity to improve safety 检查目前美国女性消防个人防护装备(PPE)的尺寸和装配过程的挑战:提高安全性的机会
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-11-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00314-8
Susan L. Sokolowski, Linsey Griffin, Yingying Wu, Ellen McKinney, Kristen Morris, Christine Bettencourt

Between 2010 and 2014, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimated that female firefighters experienced 1260 injuries on the fireground each year. Previous research attributed some of these injuries to ill-fitting fire personal protective equipment (PPE). Therefore, in this mixed-method paper, the authors explored the relationship between fire PPE and injuries, and how they related to sizing and fit. To achieve this aim, data were collected from manufacturer-provided web communications regarding sizing and fit, user surveys (n = 74), and 1:1 interviews (n = 31) with U.S. female firefighters. The data considered how the size and fit standards established by the NFPA and how leading fire PPE manufacturers’ interpretation of standards impacted fit for female firefighters. Interview and survey data pinpointed experiences with the PPE sizing processes that led to poor fit. The data also identified previously undocumented knowledge gaps between NFPA size standards, commercialized products, and processes used by manufacturers and firehouses to fit female practitioners. The study discovered several opportunities to improve the size and fitting process women experienced when acquiring new turnout gear. With effective fire industry partnerships and future research, women can experience fewer injuries, improved comfort, and work performance with their PPE while establishing equality with their male counterparts.

2010年至2014年间,美国国家消防协会(NFPA)估计,女性消防员每年在火场受伤1260人。先前的研究将其中一些伤害归因于不合适的消防个人防护装备(PPE)。因此,在这篇混合方法的论文中,作者探讨了火灾PPE与伤害之间的关系,以及它们与尺寸和适合度的关系。为了实现这一目标,数据收集自制造商提供的关于尺寸和适合度的网络通信、用户调查(n = 74)和对美国女消防员的1:1访谈(n = 31)。数据考虑了NFPA制定的尺寸和适合度标准以及领先的消防PPE制造商对标准的解释如何影响女性消防员的适合度。访谈和调查数据明确指出了PPE尺码流程中导致不合适的经验。数据还确定了NFPA尺寸标准、商业化产品以及制造商和消防站使用的适合女性从业人员的过程之间先前未记录的知识差距。该研究发现了几个机会,以改善妇女在获得新的投票率时经历的尺寸和合身过程。通过有效的消防行业伙伴关系和未来的研究,女性可以减少伤害,改善舒适度和工作表现,同时建立与男性同行的平等地位。
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引用次数: 1
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