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Geometric-spatial parameterization of storm sandbars in post-storm beach profile self-recovery: Modulated by tide-wave-sandbar interplay 风暴后海滩剖面自恢复中风暴沙洲的几何空间参数化:由潮-波-沙洲相互作用调制
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-17 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104973
Xi Feng , Yuanshu Jiang , Yingtao Zhou , Yu Zhu , Aifeng Tao , Jinhai Zheng
One of the most prominent modifications to beaches by storms is the formation of nearshore sandbars, which complicates processes in the surf and swash zones. However, the migration processes of these sandbars and their influence on the recovery of post-storm beaches remain unclear, especially under low-wave-energy conditions. This study, based on field campaign data, revealed that a storm-deposited sandbar formed after Typhoon Kompasu provided an essential sediment source for the eroded backshore, thereby boosting the self-recovery of the storm-altered profile. To further explore the hydrodynamic and morphological controls on the migration and dispersion of the storm-deposited sandbar, a state-of-the-art numerical model for coastal processes, XBeach, was employed. Simulation results are consistent with observational data, demonstrating that even in a micro-tidal regime, tides play a vital role in post-storm morphological evolution: by regulating wave asymmetry and wave breaking, tides prolong the duration of processes in the swash and surf zones. Specifically, rising tides facilitate sandbar overwash, while ebbing tides enhance sediment accretion on both the backshore and foreshore. In micro- to meso‑tidal environments, a berm can be more easily developed using sediment from storm-induced sandbars, whereas such berms rarely form in macro-tidal environments. Moreover, the initial configuration of sandbars controls the geometric features of equilibrium profiles in micro- to meso‑tidal environments, but this influence does not appear in macro-tidal settings. Notably, only when sandbars have a moderate width-to-height ratio (γsb≈20) and are positioned 0.1–0.3 times the incident wavelength from the dune toe can they effectively replenish the eroded backshore while preventing dune erosion. The findings of this study highlight the importance of incorporating tidal fluctuations into experimental setups and provide a scientific basis for formulating artificial intervention strategies for beach protection.
风暴对海滩最显著的改变之一是近岸沙洲的形成,这使冲浪区和冲浪区的过程复杂化。然而,这些沙洲的迁移过程及其对风暴后海滩恢复的影响仍不清楚,特别是在低波能条件下。研究结果表明,台风“孔帕”后形成的风暴沉积沙洲为被侵蚀的后海岸提供了重要的泥沙来源,从而促进了风暴蚀变剖面的自我恢复。为了进一步探索风暴沉积沙洲迁移和扩散的水动力和形态控制,采用了最先进的海岸过程数值模型XBeach。模拟结果与观测数据一致,表明即使在微潮状态下,潮汐在风暴后的形态演变中也起着至关重要的作用:通过调节波浪不对称和波浪破碎,潮汐延长了冲刷带和冲浪带过程的持续时间。具体来说,涨潮促进了沙洲的冲过,而退潮则加强了后海岸和前海岸的沉积物增加。在微潮到中潮环境中,利用风暴引起的沙洲的沉积物可以更容易地形成一个护堤,而在大潮环境中很少形成这样的护堤。此外,沙洲的初始形态控制着微潮至中潮环境中平衡剖面的几何特征,但这种影响在大潮环境中不表现出来。值得注意的是,沙洲只有具有中等的宽高比(γsb≈20),且位于距离沙丘趾部入射波长的0.1 ~ 0.3倍处,才能有效补充被侵蚀的后滩,同时防止沙丘侵蚀。这项研究的结果突显了将潮汐波动纳入实验装置的重要性,并为制定保护泳滩的人工干预策略提供科学依据。
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引用次数: 0
Reconstruction of the underwater sound speed field of mesoscale eddies in typical sea areas based on the physically-constrained deep learning model 基于物理约束深度学习模型的典型海域中尺度涡旋水声声速场重建
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-24 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104988
Yuyao Liu , Jiru Wang , Wei Chen, Yu Chen, Jing Zhu, Weixuan Zhang, Zhou Meng
As a widespread dynamical phenomenon in the world’s oceans, mesoscale eddies significantly alter the temperature and salinity of water masses, leading to differences in the sound speed profile (SSP) within the eddies compared to the surrounding seawater. These differences in turn affect underwater acoustic detection. In this study, a Physically-Constrained Attention Residual Network (PC-ARN) has developed to reconstruct the sound speed field of eddies in Kuroshio Extension (KE) and Subtropical Counter Current (STCC) regions. The PC-ARN model integrates Convolutional Block Attention Module (CBAM) into the Residual Network (ResNet) and is trained using extensive remote sensing data, eddy parameter data, and Argo float observations. A multi-scale feature fusion mechanism preserves the specificity of remote sensing data, while the CBAM mechanism enhances eddy feature extraction. Furthermore, we introduce a novel physical constraint based on a normalized eddy representation, derived from spatiotemporally matched eddy parameters and Argo data via normalization analysis. Incorporating this constraint improves PC-ARN’s reconstruction performance, reducing the root mean square error (RMSE) of reconstructed Argo SSPs by an average of over 13 %. The core depth errors of reconstructed eddies are 5 m (1.7 %), 10 m (6.9 %), and 20 m (4.5 %), respectively. Acoustic field predictions demonstrate that the proposed reconstruction scheme can efficiently capture unique eddy-induced transmission loss patterns without relying on in situ underwater observations in eddy environments.
作为世界海洋中广泛存在的动力现象,中尺度涡旋显著地改变了水团的温度和盐度,导致涡旋内的声速分布(SSP)与周围海水的声速分布(SSP)存在差异。这些差异反过来又影响水声探测。本文采用物理约束注意残差网络(PC-ARN)重建黑潮延伸区和副热带逆流区涡旋声速场。PC-ARN模型将卷积块注意模块(CBAM)集成到残差网络(ResNet)中,并使用大量遥感数据、涡流参数数据和Argo浮标观测数据进行训练。多尺度特征融合机制保留了遥感数据的特异性,CBAM机制增强了涡流特征提取。此外,我们通过归一化分析,从时空匹配的涡流参数和Argo数据中导出了一种新的基于归一化涡流表示的物理约束。结合这一约束提高了PC-ARN的重建性能,将重建Argo ssp的均方根误差(RMSE)平均降低了13%以上。重建涡旋的岩心深度误差分别为5 m(1.7%)、10 m(6.9%)和20 m(4.5%)。声场预测表明,所提出的重建方案可以有效地捕获独特的涡流诱导传输损耗模式,而无需依赖于涡流环境中的水下原位观测。
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引用次数: 0
Spatiotemporal numerical modeling of wave overtopping flow over dike crests and landward slopes 波浪漫过堤峰和向陆坡的时空数值模拟
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104972
Niels van der Vegt , Bas Hofland , Vera M. van Bergeijk , Suzanne J.M.H. Hulscher , Jord J. Warmink
Wave overtopping can cause severe erosion on the crest and landward slope of a dike. Accurate erosion prediction requires resolving the spatiotemporal evolution of overtopping flow, which remains insufficiently understood. This study investigates the behavior of overtopping flow along the crest and landward slope using a new, efficient numerical model based on the Steep-Slope Shallow Water Equations. The model was validated against measurements from field experiments using a wave overtopping simulator.
The model was applied to a typical dike geometry (Bc = 5 m; tan(α) = 1V:3H), where the overtopping flow is imposed at the waterside crest line based on a schematization using empirical equations from literature and insights from small-scale overtopping experiments. The spatiotemporal evolution of the flow was analyzed along the crest and landward slope for different overtopping volumes. The flow was observed to stretch in time along both the crest and slope while the wavefront steepens, causing the peak flow thickness (hpeak) to decrease significantly. The peak flow velocity (upeak) decreases along the crest but initially accelerates on the slope due to gravitational forcing. As the flow becomes progressively thinner and faster downslope, frictional forcing increases, reducing the acceleration. Eventually, gravitational and frictional forces balance, causing upeak to decelerate and then decrease.
Overall, the model captures key spatiotemporal dynamics such as flow stretching, wavefront steepening, and deceleration of upeak on long slopes, which are absent in time-independent analytical models. It offers a computationally efficient approach that provides a practical middle ground between simplified analytical methods and full CFD simulations.
波浪漫过会对堤坝的波峰和向陆坡造成严重的侵蚀。准确的侵蚀预报需要解决过顶流的时空演变问题,这一点目前还没有得到充分的认识。本文利用基于陡坡浅水方程的一种新的高效数值模型,研究了沿坡顶和向陆坡的过顶流行为。利用波浪过顶模拟器对该模型进行了实测验证。该模型应用于典型的堤防几何形状(Bc = 5 m; tan(α) = 1V:3H),其中溢水流施加在水边波峰线上,基于文献经验方程的示意图和小规模溢水实验的见解。分析了不同漫顶体积下沿峰顶和向陆坡方向流动的时空演变规律。当波前变陡时,沿波峰和坡方向的流动随时间拉长,导致峰值流动厚度(hpeak)显著减小。峰值流速(upeak)沿峰顶减小,但由于重力作用在坡面上开始加速。随着气流逐渐变薄,下坡变快,摩擦力增加,加速度减小。最终,重力和摩擦力平衡,导致峰值减速,然后减小。总的来说,该模型捕获了关键的时空动力学,如流拉伸、波前陡增和长斜坡上峰值的减速,这些在时间独立的分析模型中是不存在的。它提供了一种计算效率高的方法,在简化的分析方法和完整的CFD模拟之间提供了一个实用的中间地带。
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引用次数: 0
Traction characteristics and failure mechanisms of deep-sea ultra-soft sediment under grouser shear 沙砾剪切作用下深海超软质沉积物的牵引特性及破坏机制
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-11 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104952
Yanli Chen , Guocheng Zhao , Yong Yang , Longfei Xiao , Lixin Xu
Traction performance is a critical factor governing the robust operation of deep-sea tracked mining vehicles on ultra-soft sediments. However, classic terramechanics models, such as the Bekker and Wong formulas, systematically underestimate traction capabilities as they neglect the complex soil accumulation and geometric effects induced by curved grousers. To address this, an improved analytical model based on Coulomb's passive earth pressure theory was developed, incorporating a correction factor (k) to account for grouser curvature and soil accumulation. A biomimetic grouser inspired by buffalo hoof morphology was designed and experimentally tested to validate the model. Results demonstrate that optimizing the dimensionless straight segment length (L*) and curvature radius (R*) enhances traction by 3–6 % compared to traditional flat grousers. A response surface analysis identified the optimal configuration (L = 50 mm, R = 200 mm) and revealed that L plays a more dominant role than R. Crucially, comparative analyses confirm that the proposed model significantly outperforms the Bekker model, reducing the prediction error from 12.55 % (Bekker model) to just 0.75 %. These findings provide precise quantitative guidance for optimizing the maneuverability of next-generation deep-sea mining vehicles.
牵引性能是控制深海履带式采矿车在超软底质上稳健运行的关键因素。然而,经典的地形力学模型,如Bekker和Wong公式,系统地低估了牵引能力,因为它们忽略了复杂的土壤积累和弯曲土槽引起的几何效应。为了解决这个问题,基于库仑被动土压力理论开发了一个改进的分析模型,其中包含一个校正因子(k)来考虑粗糙曲率和土壤堆积。以水牛蹄的形态为灵感,设计了一种仿生松鸡,并进行了实验验证。结果表明,优化后的无量纲直段长度(L*)和曲率半径(R*)比传统平刨机提高了3 - 6%的牵引力。响应面分析确定了最优配置(L = 50 mm, R = 200 mm),结果表明L比R起更大的主导作用。关键的是,对比分析证实,所提出的模型显著优于Bekker模型,将预测误差从12.55% (Bekker模型)降低到仅0.75%。这些研究结果为优化下一代深海采矿车的机动性能提供了精确的定量指导。
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引用次数: 0
Numerical and experimental investigation into field joint strain concentration in concrete-weight coated pipelines under bending 弯曲条件下砼包覆管道现场接头应变集中的数值与试验研究
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104960
G.M. Harun-Or-Rashid , Ahmed Reda , Mohamed A. Shahin , Ali Karrech
Strain localisation at the field joint (FJ) for concrete-weight coated (CWC) pipelines subjected to bending during installation and operation remains a critical design concern. This study develops a high-fidelity finite element model (FEM), validated against newly available full-scale bending tests, to characterise the nonlinear mechanical behaviour of CWC pipelines. The model accurately reproduces the measured bending response, local strain behaviour, and displacement profile, and captures the progression of cracking, interfacial slip, and strain concentration factor (SNCF) observed during testing. The results show that tensile SNCF at the field joints governs the response and defines the onset of critical behaviour, with concrete crushing marking the serviceability limit. A direct comparison of the obtained results with DNV-RP-F105 reveals significant limitations in the existing stiffness-ratio formulation for predicting SNCF. To address this issue, a set of normalised master curves is established, providing an efficient and generalisable framework for assessing field-joint performance across a range of practical geometries. The influence of internal pressure on strain localisation is also quantified, demonstrating its beneficial role in reducing tensile SNCF. The overall outcomes provide valuable insights into the interaction between coating geometry, internal pressure, and localised strain behaviour, leading to safer and cost-effective offshore pipeline design practices.
混凝土重量涂层(CWC)管道在安装和运行过程中受到弯曲,其现场接头(FJ)处的应变定位仍然是一个关键的设计问题。本研究开发了一个高保真的有限元模型(FEM),通过最新的全尺寸弯曲试验进行验证,以表征CWC管道的非线性力学行为。该模型准确再现了测量的弯曲响应、局部应变行为和位移曲线,并捕获了测试过程中观察到的开裂、界面滑移和应变集中系数(SNCF)的进展。结果表明,现场节理处的拉伸SNCF控制了响应并定义了临界行为的开始,混凝土破碎标志着使用极限。将所得结果与DNV-RP-F105进行直接比较,可以发现用于预测SNCF的现有刚度比公式存在明显的局限性。为了解决这个问题,建立了一套标准化的主曲线,为评估一系列实际几何形状的现场接头性能提供了一个有效且通用的框架。内部压力对应变局部化的影响也被量化,证明了其在减少拉伸SNCF方面的有益作用。总体结果为涂层几何形状、内部压力和局部应变行为之间的相互作用提供了有价值的见解,从而实现了更安全、更经济的海上管道设计实践。
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引用次数: 0
Safe region prediction and constraint design for INS–polarization–acoustic hybrid navigation ins -极化-声混合导航安全区域预测与约束设计
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-19 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104983
X.J. Fan , F. Kong , Y.J. Guo
Accurate and robust navigation in complex underwater environments requires the effective integration of heterogeneous sensors. Inertial navigation systems (INS) suffer from drift accumulation, polarization-based heading is sensitive to environmental disturbances, and acoustic positioning is limited by low update rates and measurement uncertainties. Despite recent progress in multi-sensor fusion, systematically modeling and handling uncertainties induced by dynamic sensor availability, environment-dependent degradation, and stochastic measurement errors remains challenging. This paper proposes a probabilistic hybrid navigation framework that tightly fuses INS, polarization, and acoustic information by modeling the system as a stochastic hybrid process with Markovian mode transitions. We further employ forward stochastic reachability to predict the future state distribution under switching sensor configurations and disturbances, from which probabilistic occupancy functions and dynamic confidence sets are derived. These safe regions are integrated as real-time probabilistic constraints in the fusion process to enable adaptive sensor weighting and enhance robustness under degraded or intermittent sensing. Extensive simulations under realistic uncertainty settings demonstrate improved positioning accuracy, reduced constraint violation rates, and better uncertainty bounding, indicating the potential of the proposed framework for long-duration autonomous underwater navigation.
复杂水下环境下的精确鲁棒导航需要异构传感器的有效集成。惯性导航系统(INS)存在漂移积累问题,基于极化的航向对环境干扰敏感,声波定位受低更新率和测量不确定性的限制。尽管最近在多传感器融合方面取得了进展,但系统地建模和处理由动态传感器可用性、环境依赖性退化和随机测量误差引起的不确定性仍然具有挑战性。本文提出了一种概率混合导航框架,通过将系统建模为具有马尔可夫模式转换的随机混合过程,将INS、极化和声学信息紧密融合。我们进一步利用前向随机可达性来预测开关传感器配置和干扰下的未来状态分布,并由此导出了概率占用函数和动态置信集。在融合过程中,这些安全区域被集成为实时概率约束,以实现自适应传感器加权,并增强退化或间歇感知下的鲁棒性。在现实不确定性设置下的大量模拟表明,该框架提高了定位精度,降低了约束违反率,并且具有更好的不确定性边界,表明该框架具有长时间自主水下导航的潜力。
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引用次数: 0
High-resolution underwater mapping in low-visibility and confined environments using imaging sonar 利用成像声纳在低能见度和受限环境中进行高分辨率水下测绘
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-11 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104959
Xiaoteng Zhou , Yusheng Wang , Katsunori Mizuno , Kenichiro Tsutsumi , Hideki Sugimoto
The detailed characterization of low-visibility and confined underwater environments remains a critical challenge for autonomous exploration due to the limited spatial resolution of conventional sensing techniques. Previous mapping methods often depend on complex multi-sensor systems, which increase operational cost and reduce adaptability across diverse environments. This study proposes a novel high-resolution mapping approach using a single imaging sonar, which integrates acoustic mosaicking techniques with a shadow cue-based target height estimation model. This approach can be regarded as a 2.5-D mapping strategy: a planar mapping is first generated from 2-D sonar images, and the estimated target heights are then used to compensate for the missing elevation information to achieve a spatial representation. Unlike conventional 3-D reconstruction techniques, it emphasizes the rapid acquisition of spatial contours rather than the recovery of structural details. Experiments conducted in controlled pool environments demonstrate that the proposed method can reliably reconstruct spatial layouts and target dimensions, offering a robust and scalable solution for autonomous underwater perception. The approach advances low-altitude surveys in extreme environments, opening new pathways for efficient perception using marine robotic systems.
由于传统传感技术的空间分辨率有限,低能见度和受限水下环境的详细特征仍然是自主探测的关键挑战。以往的制图方法往往依赖于复杂的多传感器系统,这增加了操作成本,降低了对不同环境的适应性。本研究提出了一种使用单个成像声纳的新型高分辨率制图方法,该方法将声学拼接技术与基于阴影线索的目标高度估计模型相结合。这种方法可以看作是一种2.5维映射策略:首先从二维声纳图像生成平面映射,然后使用估计的目标高度来补偿缺失的高程信息,从而实现空间表示。与传统的三维重建技术不同,它强调空间轮廓的快速获取,而不是结构细节的恢复。在受控水池环境中进行的实验表明,该方法可以可靠地重建空间布局和目标尺寸,为自主水下感知提供了鲁棒性和可扩展性的解决方案。该方法推进了极端环境下的低空测量,为使用海洋机器人系统进行有效感知开辟了新的途径。
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引用次数: 0
Flow-induced buckling of a viscoelastic bistable structure in time varying flow 时变流动中粘弹性双稳结构的流致屈曲
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-14 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104977
Leixin Ma, Varshitha Janavi, Muhammad Umer Khan Mughal, Uday Kumar Punna
This study investigates the influence of linear viscoelasticity on the snap-through dynamics of bistable structures subjected to fluid flows with changing speed. The viscoelastic behavior is modeled using a Prony series, capturing the time-dependent relaxation modulus. Numerical simulations based on the Arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian framework are conducted to analyze the structural response under changing flow speeds. Key parameters, including relaxation times and Prony coefficients, are systematically evaluated to elucidate their roles in governing dynamic stability and energy transfer between the fluid and structure systems. Two critical dimensionless parameters are identified: a Cauchy number modified by viscoelastic stiffness and the Deborah number. The modified Cauchy number quantifies the interaction between fluid forces and effective structural stiffness, while the Deborah number captures the transition between viscous-dominated and elastic-dominated regimes. Structures with significant viscous effects exhibit delayed buckling and increased strain energy under faster inlet flow acceleration, indicating a stiffness amplification effect. These findings provide insight into the interplay between viscoelastic material response and flow conditions and inform the design of adaptive bistable structures for applications in soft robotics, morphing surfaces, and energy-harvesting technologies.
本文研究了线性粘弹性对双稳结构在变速流体作用下的断裂动力学的影响。粘弹性行为是使用一个proony系列,捕捉随时间的松弛模量。基于任意拉格朗日-欧拉框架进行了数值模拟,分析了结构在变流速下的响应。系统地评估了关键参数,包括松弛时间和proony系数,以阐明它们在控制流体和结构系统之间的动力稳定性和能量传递中的作用。确定了两个关键的无量纲参数:粘弹性刚度修正的柯西数和黛博拉数。修正的柯西数量化了流体力和有效结构刚度之间的相互作用,而黛博拉数捕获了粘性主导和弹性主导之间的过渡。具有明显粘性效应的结构在较快的进口流加速度下表现出延迟屈曲和应变能增加,表明刚度放大效应。这些发现为粘弹性材料响应和流动条件之间的相互作用提供了见解,并为软机器人、变形表面和能量收集技术中自适应双稳态结构的设计提供了信息。
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引用次数: 0
The contribution of sensitivity analysis and data assimilation to tidal-stream resource assessment: The example of the Alderney Race 敏感性分析和数据同化对潮汐流资源评价的贡献:以奥尔德尼种族为例
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-09 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104970
Jérôme Thiébot , Cédric Goeury , Jean-Paul Travert , Anju Sebastian , Julien Salomon
Highly accurate modeling of tidal current is crucial in the assessment of tidal-stream resource. We use a method for refining the predictions of a two-dimensional tidal model applied to estimate the resource of the Alderney Race (English Channel). The first phase consists in identifying the input parameters which have the greatest influence on the model’s performance. The sensitivity analysis relies on the Sobol’ indices. It is found that the adjustment of the phase of the M2 (lunar semidiurnal) constituent is the most efficient way to reduce model’s errors. Bottom friction and amplitudes of M2 and S2 (solar semidiurnal) are also influential on model performance. The second phase relies on data assimilation. The 3DVar algorithm is used to adjust the calibration parameters so that they reduce the errors between model predictions and depth-averaged current speed measured by ADCPs. The method, although common in other coastal engineering applications, is tested in the context of estimating tidal resource. It gives promising results as it reduces root mean square errors in current speed by 19%. This corresponds to a reduction of root mean square error in power density of 31% at the ADCP locations. By comparing maps of power density before and after the model calibration, we show that the adjustment of model parameters significantly modifies the resource assessment in the Alderney Race.
高精度的潮流模拟是评价潮流资源的关键。我们使用一种方法来改进二维潮汐模型的预测,用于估计奥尔德尼竞赛(英吉利海峡)的资源。第一阶段包括识别对模型性能影响最大的输入参数。敏感性分析依赖于Sobol指数。研究发现,调整月球半日线M2分量的相位是减小模型误差的最有效方法。底部摩擦和M2和S2(太阳半日线)振幅也对模型性能有影响。第二阶段依赖于数据同化。使用3DVar算法调整校准参数,以减小模型预测与ADCPs测量的深度平均电流速度之间的误差。该方法虽然在其他海岸工程应用中很常见,但在潮汐资源估算的背景下进行了测试。它给出了有希望的结果,因为它将当前速度的均方根误差降低了19%。这相当于ADCP位置的功率密度均方根误差降低了31%。通过对比模型校正前后的功率密度图,我们发现模型参数的调整显著地改变了奥尔德尼赛的资源评价。
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引用次数: 0
Assessing the performance of a coupled wave–current model in coral reef systems 评估珊瑚礁系统中耦合波流模型的性能
IF 4.4 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, OCEAN Pub Date : 2026-03-01 Epub Date: 2026-02-14 DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2026.104974
Zereng Chen , Chi Zhang , Yang Nie , Yuan Li , Qinghe Zhang
Numerical simulation using wave–current coupled models is a key approach to investigate the propagation of irregular waves over coral reefs. In this study, a three-dimensional coupled model, developed within a discontinuous Galerkin hydrodynamic framework and a phase-averaged wave module, is applied to evaluate its performance at both laboratory and field scales. In the laboratory reef–lagoon–channel system, the model accurately reproduces wave spectra, significant wave heights, setup, and currents, with high accuracy from the fore reef to the mid-reef flat and slightly reduced performance in the back reef and lagoon. Field applications at the southeastern coast of Hainan Island, China, show that the model effectively captures water levels and wave heights over a continuous five-day period. Compared with measurements, tidal level variation is the primary driver of the simulated wave-height fluctuations over the reef flat, while including tidal currents further improves accuracy by about 42% on average. Tidal level and currents together account for 32–76% of total wave-height variations, with tidal elevation dominating (14–58%) and current effects ranging from 10 to 23%. Near the reef edge, tidal level and current influences are comparable, whereas the tidal level effect becomes up to sixfold stronger shoreward. The combined laboratory and field results suggest that nonstationary wave and tide boundary conditions are more favorable for accurately reproducing wave heights, setup, and currents in the coupled model. Further adding and refining low-frequency wave energy transfer and wave reflection parameterizations will be essential to improve the performance over coral reef coasts.
波浪流耦合模型的数值模拟是研究不规则波浪在珊瑚礁上传播的关键方法。在本研究中,在不连续Galerkin流体动力框架和相位平均波模块中建立了一个三维耦合模型,用于评估其在实验室和现场尺度上的性能。在实验室珊瑚礁-泻湖-水道系统中,该模型准确地再现了从前礁到中礁平坦的波浪谱、显著波高、设置和电流,精度较高,后礁和泻湖的性能略有下降。在中国海南岛东南沿海的现场应用表明,该模型有效地捕获了连续5天的水位和波高。与实测数据相比,潮位变化是礁滩上模拟波高波动的主要驱动因素,而加入潮流进一步提高了平均约42%的精度。潮位和海流共同占总波高变化的32-76%,其中潮汐高程占主导地位(14-58%),海流影响范围为10 - 23%。在珊瑚礁边缘附近,潮汐水平和水流的影响是相当的,而潮汐水平的影响在海岸上要强六倍。实验和现场结果表明,非平稳波和潮汐边界条件更有利于准确再现耦合模型中的波高、设置和流。进一步增加和改进低频波能量传递和波反射参数化对于提高在珊瑚礁海岸上的性能至关重要。
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Applied Ocean Research
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