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Developing textile sustainability education in the curriculum: pedagogical approaches to material innovation in fashion. 在课程中发展纺织品可持续性教育:时装材料创新的教学方法。
Pub Date : 2022-10-31 eCollection Date: 2023-01-01 DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2022.2131913
Jane Wood, James Redfern, Joanna Verran

The textile industry needs to adopt environmentally sustainable approaches to address ecologically damaging practices. Whilst driven by initiatives such as Textiles 2030, it is current students who will carry this agenda forward. This project investigated pedagogical approaches to develop sustainable textiles for the fashion design curriculum. Pilot studies, using bacterial cellulose (BC) as a material for millinery, revealed members of the public were prepared to experiment with this novel material, and BC was compatible with traditional hat-making techniques. A further study challenged secondary school students, based on an experiential learning model, to grow their own BC biofilm, exploring this as a sustainable apparel fabric. Initial attitudes of reluctance developed into acceptance once engaged in the practical activity. This study illustrates that with appropriate communication and education strategies, the principles of sustainability in fashion, and the acceptability of novel materials, can be engendered in different audiences.

纺织业需要采用环境可持续发展的方法来解决破坏生态的做法。在《纺织业 2030》等倡议的推动下,目前的学生将推动这一议程。本项目研究了为时装设计课程开发可持续纺织品的教学方法。试点研究使用细菌纤维素(BC)作为制帽材料,结果表明公众愿意尝试这种新型材料,而且细菌纤维素与传统制帽技术兼容。另一项研究以体验式学习模式为基础,让中学生自己种植 BC 生物膜,探索将其作为可持续服装面料的可能性。学生们从最初的不情愿到参与实践活动后的接受。这项研究表明,通过适当的交流和教育策略,时尚的可持续性原则以及新型材料的可接受性可以被不同的受众所接受。
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引用次数: 1
«Eternal Images» of Antiquity: Functional Analysis in the Scope of the Late 20th – Early 21st Centuries Visual Culture 古代的“永恒影像”:20世纪末至21世纪初视觉文化范围内的功能分析
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0873
N. Getashvili
Traced the desire of star artists from France, Italy, Spain, Great Britain, Russia, different generations and with fundamentally different worldview foundations of creativity, in recent decades to include antique motifs in their imaginative programs; moreover, making them the translators of individual artistic expressions reflecting socio-cultural reception. The portrayal of ancient images, on different aesthetic and worldview bases, are present in the experimental works of the modernism, in the postmodernism (which became a reflection of the collapse of the whole picture of the world observed in modern psychology, philosophy, history), are a means of actualization gender issues, the problems of the LDF community, a reflection of glamorous aesthetics, arise in examples of street art and arte-pover, elite and mass culture, etc. For the first time in many centuries, «antique» sculptures appear at city crossroads and squares, bearing signs of the formal vocabulary of new trends. Over the past more than half a century, the individual statements of artists, in an attempt to remain in the field of polemical discourse, in an effort to expand the boundaries of the norm, including the recently approved ones, took place within the framework of large-scale (it is important to be aware) conceptual projects, thematically completely based on the interpretation of the images of Antiquity, which takes place for the first time in the history of exhibition practice. Moreover, these projects sometimes seem to be milestones in the development of contemporary art
追溯近几十年来,来自法国、意大利、西班牙、英国、俄罗斯的明星艺术家的愿望,他们不同的年代,有着根本不同的世界观和创造力基础,在他们富有想象力的节目中加入古董主题;此外,使他们成为反映社会文化接受的个人艺术表达的翻译者。在现代主义的实验作品中,在后现代主义中(后现代主义反映了现代心理学、哲学、历史中观察到的整个世界图景的崩溃),对古代形象的描绘存在于不同的审美和世界观基础上,是一种实现性别问题的手段,LDF社区的问题,是一种迷人美学的反映,在街头艺术和艺术权力、精英和大众文化等例子中出现。许多世纪以来,“古董”雕塑第一次出现在城市的十字路口和广场上,标志着新趋势的正式词汇。在过去的半个多世纪里,艺术家的个人陈述,试图留在辩论话语的领域,努力扩大规范的边界,包括最近批准的规范,发生在大型(重要的是要意识到)概念项目的框架内,主题上完全基于对古代图像的解释,这是展览实践历史上第一次发生。此外,这些项目有时似乎是当代艺术发展的里程碑
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引用次数: 0
On the attribution of the Stichera Cycle «Most Blessed Father» in honour of the Metropolitan of All Russia Peter to the musical and hymnographic works of Tsar Ivan the Terrible 关于Stichera循环«最受祝福的父亲»的归属,以纪念全俄罗斯彼得大都会的音乐和赞美诗作品的沙皇伊凡雷帝
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0878
N. Parfentieva
The authors address the problem of the attribution of the chanting cycle «Most Blessed Father», ascribed in science as work of Tsar Ivan the Terrible’s authorship. The study was carried out by means of a comparative textual analysis of sources of the 16th‑17th centuries, the main of which is the Stichirar writtten by outstanding raspevshik (church chant master) Login Shishelov. It contains the cycle «Most Blessed Father Saint Peter», the first stichera of which was attributed by Login to Tsar Ivan the Terrible. The preservation of the tsar’s musical creation by Login Shishelov is one of the most important evidence in favour of the reliability of this attribution. It is established that in 1585 Login was a monk of the Chudov Monastery, located in the Moscow Kremlin, and could have the opportunity to obtain written evidence of the work of Tsar Ivan the Terrible. The authors reveals the history of this manuscript after its introduction into scientific circulation in 1887, pointing out that this study is in fact the first reference to the tsar’s cycle from it after a century of interruption. The researchers also analyse the scientific works of N. S. Seregina, who in the 90s, when the manuscript was considered lost, believed that she had discovered rewritten several times version of the Tsar Ivan the Terrible cycle, but without attributing remark. The authors of the article found out that this version contains the same verbal texts as the Login’s, but is radically different in musical terms. Therefore, the musical content of the nameless cycle, performed by N. S. Seregina, cannot be attributed to the work of the tsar. The authors of the article established that there are two differing musical versions of the single verbal text of the stichera, while the structure of the cycle with attribution to the tsar consists of four chants, and in the nameless masters – of three. The cycle from Login’s manuscript is unique musically, since so far such neumanic record of its text is found only in this single source. The authors conclude that Login Shishelov’s definitely attribution to the tsar’s authorship the musical and hymnographic text of only the first stichera of the cycle inspires confidence. Whether the other three stichera of the cycle are belonging to the tsar’s authorship remains to be seen in the future. The probability of their belonging to the work of the tsar is also great
作者解决的问题归属的吟诵周期«最祝福的父亲»,在科学归因于工作的沙皇伊凡雷帝的作者。这项研究是通过对16 - 17世纪的文献来源进行比较文本分析来进行的,其中主要是由杰出的raspevshik(教会圣歌大师)Login Shishelov撰写的Stichirar。它包含了“最受祝福的父亲圣彼得”的循环,其中的第一个stichera是由Login归因于沙皇伊凡雷帝。由Login Shishelov创作的沙皇音乐作品的保存是支持这一归属可靠性的最重要证据之一。据悉,1585年,洛恩是位于莫斯科克里姆林宫的楚多夫修道院的一名修道士,他有机会获得沙皇伊凡雷帝工作的书面证据。作者揭示了这份手稿在1887年进入科学流通后的历史,指出这项研究实际上是在中断了一个世纪之后第一次参考沙皇的周期。研究人员还分析了n·s·塞列吉纳的科学著作。90年代,当手稿被认为丢失时,塞列吉纳认为她发现了被重写了几次的《沙皇伊凡大帝》,但没有给出评论。这篇文章的作者发现,这个版本包含了与Login相同的口头文本,但在音乐方面却截然不同。因此,由n.s.s Seregina演奏的无名循环的音乐内容不能归因于沙皇的作品。文章的作者确定,有两个不同的音乐版本的单一口头文本的stichera,而结构的循环与归属沙皇包括四个圣歌,在无名大师-三个。从Login的手稿的循环是独特的音乐,因为到目前为止,它的文本这样的抒情记录只发现在这个单一的来源。作者的结论是,Login Shishelov明确地认为沙皇的作者,音乐和赞美诗的文本只有第一章的周期激发了信心。至于其他三幅画是否属于沙皇的作品,未来还有待观察。它们属于沙皇的作品的可能性也很大
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引用次数: 0
The Concept of “Genre” in the Scientific Heritage of Feodosy Rubtsov 论鲁夫佐夫科学遗产中的“体裁”概念
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0879
Evgenia S. Redkova
Professor of the Leningrad State Conservatory composer Feodosy Antonovich Rubtsov (1904-1986) entered the history of Russian musicology as the author of the original concept of the structure of scales of folk songs. The scientist formulated main positions in monographs “Intonation Relations in the Songs of Slavs” (1962) and “The principles of mode construction in Russian Folk Songs” (1964). Comprehension of the concept of “genre”, the definition of genre features of traditional folk songs is a little-known side of Rubtsov’s scientific heritage. The study of archival documents (in particular, the transcripts of the report “Principles for Determining Genres of Folk Songs”, which was made in 1966 at the Leningrad department of the Union of Composers at the scientific conference “Theoretical Problems of Musical Forms and Genres”) shows that the scientist formulated a number of positions that were relevant for the 1960–1970. “Genre” is a genus and species concept, multi-level concept. The main criterion for determining the genre is the function, the stylistic features and the type of form are important too. Rubtsov noted that the genre system of folklore is capable of renewal, and the characteristic property of the genres of musical folklore lies in their ability in a certain context to act as a function of another genre
列宁格勒国立音乐学院教授、作曲家费奥多西·安东诺维奇·鲁普佐夫(1904-1986)作为民歌音阶结构的原创概念的作者,进入了俄罗斯音乐史。这位科学家在他的专著《斯拉夫人歌曲中的语调关系》(1962)和《俄罗斯民歌中的调式构建原则》(1964)中阐述了他的主要观点。对“体裁”概念的理解,对传统民歌体裁特征的界定,是鲁伯特索夫科学遗产中鲜为人知的一面。对档案文件的研究(特别是1966年在列宁格勒作曲家联盟部门在“音乐形式和流派的理论问题”科学会议上发表的“确定民歌流派的原则”报告的文本)表明,这位科学家制定了一些与1960-1970年相关的立场。“类型”是一个属和种的概念,多层次的概念。判断文体的主要标准是文体的功能,文体特征和形式类型也很重要。Rubtsov指出,民俗学的体裁系统具有更新的能力,音乐民俗学体裁的特性在于它们能够在一定的语境中充当另一体裁的功能
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引用次数: 0
Art School of the Krasnoyarsk Region: Formation Features Analysis Through the Prism of the Fractal Concept 克拉斯诺亚尔斯克地区艺术学院:通过分形概念的棱镜分析形成特征
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0882
L. Stroj
The article is based on a study aimed to the possibility of applying the fractal concept for the region’s artistic life study and the formation of its professional art education system. There are main features of the application of the fractal concept in this study, its subject is the activity of creative leaders at the initial stage of the formation of the professional art education system in Krasnoyarsk at the turn of the XIX–XX centuries. Historical analysis and historiographic approach for studying the formation of art education makes it possible to determine the key origin points of the regional art school, and due to use of an anthropological approach the role of the individuals in the periphery artistic life reveals, as well as the launch and coordination of self-organizing processes. There were a set of factors which determined the unique appearance of the regional art culture and the features of its educational tradition at the initial stage of the professional art education system formation which were manifested primarily through the activities of creative leaders: M. A. Rutchenko and P. I. Ivanov-Radkevich, who could be called as anthropological fractals. The main directions of their work and artistic and teaching methods made it possible to determine the basic provisions for the development of the culture of the region and important steps towards the historical, geographical and ethnographic self-identification in the culture and art of Krasnoyarsk
本文是基于对分形概念应用于区域艺术生活研究和专业艺术教育体系形成的可能性的研究。分形概念在本研究中的应用有其主要特点,其研究对象是19 - 20世纪之交克拉斯诺亚尔斯克专业艺术教育体系形成初期创造性领导者的活动。通过历史分析和史学方法研究艺术教育的形成,可以确定区域艺术学校的关键起源点,并通过人类学方法揭示个人在外围艺术生活中的作用,以及自组织过程的启动和协调。在专业艺术教育体系形成的初始阶段,有一系列因素决定了区域艺术文化的独特外观及其教育传统的特征,这些因素主要通过m.a. Rutchenko和p.i. Ivanov-Radkevich这两位创造性领袖的活动表现出来,他们可以被称为人类学的分形。他们工作的主要方向以及艺术和教学方法使他们能够确定发展该地区文化的基本规定,并在克拉斯诺亚尔斯克文化和艺术中实现历史、地理和民族自我认同的重要步骤
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引用次数: 0
Polychromy in Modern Russian Sculpture 现代俄罗斯雕塑中的多色
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0876
Marina V. Moskaliuk
This publication analyzes the possibilities of using polychromy in the creative practice of Russian sculptors. The emphasis is on highlighting the main criteria for the use of color. Hermeneutical and analytical approaches are used in combination with induction and comparison. In general, formal stylistic analysis prevails in the research methodology. The novelty of the study is due to the low level of study of the work of Russian sculptors and the weak elaboration of the problem of polychromy in the theory of sculpture as a whole. Having briefly demonstrated the experience of using polychromy in sculpture throughout the history of the development of world cultures, the authors, based on the analysis of modern sculptural compositions, draw conclusions about the relevance and diversity of the use of polychromy in domestic sculpture of the twenty-first century. Two functions of using color in sculpture are highlighted, namely: imitation/animation and symbolic/sacred. The characteristics of these functions are considered on the basis of concrete examples, in conclusion, the prospects for the development of polychromy as one of the most expressive compositional techniques of plastics are evaluated
本出版物分析了在俄罗斯雕塑家的创作实践中使用多色的可能性。重点是强调使用颜色的主要标准。解释学和分析方法与归纳和比较相结合。一般来说,形式文体分析在研究方法中占主导地位。研究的新颖性是由于对俄罗斯雕塑家作品的研究水平较低,对雕塑整体理论中多色问题的阐述较弱。在简要展示了世界文化发展史上在雕塑中使用多色的经验之后,作者基于对现代雕塑作品的分析,得出了在21世纪国内雕塑中使用多色的相关性和多样性的结论。强调了在雕塑中运用色彩的两个功能,即:模仿/动画和象征/神圣。结合具体实例分析了这些功能的特点,最后对多色作为最具表现力的塑料合成技术之一的发展前景进行了展望
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引用次数: 0
West-European Engraving in Siberian Collection: the Problems of Attribution (on the Basis of Yudin’s Collection) 西伯利亚藏品中的西欧版画:归属问题(以尤丁藏品为例)
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0885
S. Iakovleva
The paper is devoted to the study of Siberian bibliophile G. V. Yudin’s West-European graphic arts collection, which is owned by the Krasnoyarsk Regional Local Lore Museum. There is an objective need to give additional information on the attribution of auteur, reproductive and book engravings in art and documentary research. The authors address the authorship attribution through art analysis using stylistic and biographical factors. The article also responds to the problem of relevant translation of proper nouns (artists, engravers, printers, publishers) and texts on graphics. The study presents the results of literary translation of engraving texts (legends, book illustrations, caricatures). The translation is based on the knowledge of characters’ language, intentions of the author and reflects the unity of visual artwork and the literary source
这篇论文致力于研究西伯利亚藏书家g·v·尤丁(G. V. Yudin)的西欧图形艺术收藏,这些收藏归克拉斯诺亚尔斯克地区地方艺术博物馆所有。客观需要提供更多的资料,说明艺术和纪录片研究中作者、生殖和书籍雕刻的归属。作者通过艺术分析,运用文体因素和传记因素来探讨作者归属。文章还对图形的专有名词(艺术家、雕刻家、印刷商、出版商)和文本的相关翻译问题进行了回应。本研究介绍了雕刻文本(传说、书籍插图、漫画)的文学翻译结果。翻译是建立在对人物语言的了解和作者意图的基础上,体现了视觉艺术与文学来源的统一
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引用次数: 0
Regional Art Studies in Modern Russia (Introductory Article) 现代俄罗斯地域艺术研究(导论)
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0872
N. P. Koptseva
The introductory article reveals the principles of forming a science direction, dedicated to the theory and history of arts, for the journal of the Siberian Federal University «Humanities & Social Sciences». To analyze the topical problems of regional scientific schools of contemporary Russian art history, several principles were chosen: geographical (when studies are presented by regions where the corresponding scientific schools are developing), historical (in accordance with the problems characteristic of one or another significant era in the history of world and domestic art), conceptual (in accordance with the basic ideas, theories, concepts that are shared by the authors), thematic (uniting scientists dealing with similar art history issues). The main approaches of the authors, the topics of their articles, art history ideas and theories that they develop are presented. At this point the schools of Russian art history are associated with the cities of Moscow, St. Petersburg, Chelyabinsk and Krasnoyarsk
引言文章揭示了形成科学方向的原则,致力于艺术理论和历史,为西伯利亚联邦大学杂志“人文与社会科学”。为了分析俄罗斯当代艺术史区域科学流派的主题问题,选择了以下几个原则:地理(当研究由相应的科学学派发展的地区提出时),历史(根据世界和国内艺术史上一个或另一个重要时代的问题特征),概念(根据作者共享的基本思想,理论,概念),主题(联合科学家处理类似的艺术史问题)。介绍了作者的主要研究方法、文章主题、艺术史思想和发展的理论。在这一点上,俄罗斯艺术史的学校与莫斯科,圣彼得堡,车里雅宾斯克和克拉斯诺亚尔斯克等城市有关
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引用次数: 0
The Image of Parfen Rogozhin in «The Idiot», the Opera by M. Weinberg and A. Medvedev 温伯格和梅德韦杰夫的歌剧《白痴》中帕芬·罗戈津的形象
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0883
S. Voitkevich
The article is to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Fedor Mikhailovich Dostoyevsky; it concerns a musical version of his novel, «The Idiot». The Russian writer’s work has attracted attention of many composers. In 1986 Mieczysław Weinberg completed the eponymous opera. The librettist Aleksandr Medvedev follows the logic of the original story and constructs the musical drama preserving the specific features and versatility of each character, which is also reflected in the music. The image of Parfen Rogozhin reveals the development of his contradictory nature. The character is represented with ensemble and solo scenes. Parfen’s Song from Scene Nine stands out among the solos. The song «Akh, talan li moi, talan» (Oh My Bad Luck) is quoted as its source. The lyrics of the song were first published together with its tune in 1790, in a book edited by N. A. Lvov and I. G. Prach, «Collection of Russian Folk Songs with Their Tunes» (Lvov-Prach Collection). The study has found that there are different versions of the text in the oral tradition. Their variety can be reduced to two types: the bridal song and the jailhouse ballad with its steady archetype of «beauty and the rogue». Each type has a semantic correlation in the context of the opera. The quotation obviously changes in the opera. The librettist has introduced his own lines enhancing the tragic focus of the song. The composer renders them in the tune emphasizing the intonation intrinsic to the genre of lamentation
这篇文章是为了纪念陀思妥耶夫斯基诞辰200周年;它涉及他的小说《白痴》的音乐版本。这位俄罗斯作家的作品引起了许多作曲家的注意。1986年Mieczysław温伯格完成了同名歌剧。编剧亚历山大·梅德韦杰夫遵循原著故事的逻辑,构建了音乐剧,保留了每个角色的特点和多样性,这也体现在音乐上。罗戈津的形象揭示了他矛盾本性的发展。这个角色是用合奏和独奏的场景来表现的。帕芬的《第九幕之歌》在众多独唱中脱颖而出。歌曲«Akh, talan li moi, talan»(哦,我的坏运气)被引用为其来源。这首歌的歌词在1790年首次与曲调一起出版,在一本由n.a.利沃夫和i.g.普拉奇编辑的书中,“俄罗斯民歌与曲调合集”(利沃夫-普拉奇合集)。研究发现,在口述传统中有不同的文本版本。它们的种类可以减少到两种类型:新娘之歌和监狱民谣,其稳定的原型是“美女与流氓”。每种类型在歌剧的上下文中都有语义关联。这句话在歌剧中有明显的变化。歌词作者加入了自己的歌词,增强了这首歌的悲剧性。作曲家在曲调中演奏它们,强调悲歌体裁固有的语调
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引用次数: 0
Reflection of the Spiritual World of Nikita Grigorievich Stroganov in Church Art 从教堂艺术看斯特罗加诺夫的精神世界
Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.17516/1997-1370-0884
S. Voroshin
In this article the author examines the peculiarities of the personalities of the Stroganovs, entrepreneurs and patrons of the arts at the example of the Nikita Grigorevich. The main pivotal concepts that existed in the culture of the Late Middle Ages are determined, the channels of their transmission in society are indicated. To understand the factors that influenced his worldview and were reflected in the art of the Late Middle Ages, the theory of identity was chosen, which determines the involvement of a person in certain areas of culture at universal, national and regional level. This phenomenon is realized through the adoption of fundamental values characteristic of society. The translators of these values and cultural codes in Russia during the late Middle Ages were the church, chronicles and books, public and family institutions and art. The latter is able to convey semantic concepts through a system of images and symbols filled with emotions and forming a person’s involvement with the themes and ideas of the works. The author describes the influence of the fundamental ideas of that time on the formation N. G. Stroganov’s spiritual world. It’s identified cultural codes that shape the personality of entrepreneur and found their manifestation in the art he revered
在这篇文章中,作者以尼基塔·格里戈瑞维奇为例,研究了斯特罗加诺夫家族、企业家和艺术赞助人的个性特点。确定了中世纪晚期文化中存在的主要关键概念,指出了它们在社会中的传播渠道。为了了解影响他的世界观并反映在中世纪晚期艺术中的因素,选择了身份理论,这决定了一个人在普遍、国家和地区层面上参与某些文化领域。这种现象是通过采纳具有社会特征的基本价值观来实现的。在中世纪晚期的俄罗斯,这些价值观和文化规范的翻译者是教会、编年史和书籍、公共和家庭机构以及艺术。后者能够通过充满情感的图像和符号系统来传达语义概念,形成一个人对作品主题和思想的参与。作者描述了当时的基本思想对斯特罗加诺夫精神世界形成的影响。它确定了塑造企业家个性的文化规范,并在他所崇敬的艺术中找到了体现
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Journal of Siberian Federal University - Humanities and Social Sciences
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