Coastal Engineering最新文献

{"title":"Experimental investigation of scour effects on regular and breaking wave loads on a monopile","authors":"Biao Li ,&nbsp;Wen-Gang Qi ,&nbsp;Fu-Ping Gao ,&nbsp;Ben He ,&nbsp;Li-Jing Yang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104696","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104696","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study conducted a series of model tests to assess the variations of regular and breaking wave loads on monopile foundations during the scouring process. The wave forces acting on the pile were determined by measuring the strain distributions along the pile depth using fiber Bragg grating technology. Under regular wave conditions, the horizontal loads on the pile above the pre-scour (initial) mudline are minimally affected by the local scour, while the lateral shear forces and moments on the pile body within symmetric scour holes are amplified. In asymmetric scour holes, the pile section partially that is partially exposed to water waves experiences both wave-induced shear forces and active/passive soil pressures simultaneously. Based on the Morison equation and appropriate wave theories, a novel approach incorporating the increased exposure area within scour holes is introduced to evaluate the horizontal wave forces on a monopile under scour conditions. In contrast to regular wave loads, breaking wave loads consist of Morison forces and slamming forces. A new method for dividing Morison forces and slamming forces based on the characteristics of wave motion is proposed. A comparative analysis indicates that the slamming coefficient is minimally affected by scour, while the behavior of Morison forces of breaking wave forces resembles that of regular waves.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104696"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156244","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Higher-harmonic contributions to surface elevation, kinematics, and wave loads in wave packets across an abrupt depth transition","authors":"Charlotte S. Moss ,&nbsp;David M. Schultz ,&nbsp;Ben Parkes ,&nbsp;Yan Li ,&nbsp;Samuel Draycott","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104693","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104693","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The evolution of narrow-banded wave packets across an abrupt depth transition is examined using both laboratory experiments and a fully nonlinear potential-flow model. Whereas available theoretical studies focus up to the second harmonic, here we focus on higher harmonics (i.e., third–fifth) leading to nonlinearity and thereby amplified wave steepness, wave kinematics, and wave force. Surface elevations obtained from laboratory experiments are used to verify the model, with good agreement up to and including the fifth harmonic. Horizontal velocity and acceleration from the model simulations are used to calculate the horizontal force on a cylinder using the Morison equation. The first to fifth harmonics are extracted from the profiles of wave characteristics (e.g., surface elevations, kinematics, wave force) using a Fast Fourier Transform-based bandpass filter to assess their contributions. Higher harmonics accounted for up to 25% of the total surface elevation, up to 30% of horizontal acceleration, and up to 33% in wave force. Thus, higher harmonics should be accounted for in the evolution of waves in coastal waters to ensure loads are not under-estimated.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104693"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156243","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Application of laboratory dam break experiments to non-impulsive wave overtopping","authors":"Joshua Bagg ,&nbsp;Mark Battley ,&nbsp;Colin Whittaker ,&nbsp;Tom Shand","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104695","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104695","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study evaluates the novel application of a laboratory dam break flume to replicate non-impulsive wave overtopping of coastal structures, without geometric scaling. The bore generated by the dam break flume is characterised and compared with overtopped bore parameters from the literature. For a more detailed wave-by-wave comparison across a broad parameter space, XBeach non-hydrostatic was used to simulate non-impulsive waves overtopping smooth-sloped coastal structures. From the XBeach dataset of individual overtopped bores, empirical relationships were derived to predict maximum water depth, velocity and flow rate using bore volume, offshore wave parameters and coastal structure parameters. Compared to the XBeach dataset, the flume bores replicate the overtopped bore flow characteristics for gentle slopes <span><math><mrow><mn>6</mn><mo>≤</mo><mo>cot</mo><mrow><mo>(</mo><mi>α</mi><mo>)</mo></mrow><mo>≤</mo><mn>10</mn></mrow></math></span>, with peak wave period <span><math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>T</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>p</mi></mrow></msub><mo>&gt;</mo><mn>4</mn></mrow></math></span> <!--> <!-->s and at a distance from the crest edge <span><math><mrow><mn>1</mn><mo>≤</mo><msub><mrow><mi>x</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>c</mi></mrow></msub><mo>≤</mo><mn>5</mn></mrow></math></span> <!--> <!-->m. Considering wave overtopping hazards, the flume bore maximum water depth and maximum velocity can exceed thresholds for pedestrian stability.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"198 ","pages":"Article 104695"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143139484","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Nearshore space-time ocean wave observation using low-cost video cameras","authors":"Matheus Vieira ,&nbsp;C. Guedes Soares ,&nbsp;Pedro V. Guimarães ,&nbsp;Filippo Bergamasco ,&nbsp;Ricardo M. Campos","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104694","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104694","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A low-cost stereo vision technique is presented to estimate the ocean wave field in space and time. The method costs only about 1% of traditional instruments for wave measurements and is even cheaper and easier to implement than typical stereo video techniques. Despite the system providing lower-resolution data than higher-grade stereo video systems with advanced optics and synchronisation tools, the low-cost video synchronisation scheme does not require dedicated acquisition software, triggers, and cables, making the system completely portable. The system's performance was validated using a co-located pressure gauge, enabling wave measurements during experimental campaigns conducted in shallow water and the surf zone. The wave data obtained using the proposed method with two action cameras showed very small deviations in significant wave height measurements and effectively identified the dominant frequency in the wave field. Although this system is currently designed for a fixed setup, it can be adapted for use on mobile platforms such as ships, drones, or other moving systems, provided that appropriate motion correction is applied. The results indicate a higher significant wave height when considering spatial wave fields than in the temporal point elevation series. The low-cost stereo video method is a promising approach for acquiring spatiotemporal wave data for specific wave-related engineering problems.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104694"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156242","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wind forcing, source term and grid optimization for hurricane wave modelling in the Gulf of Mexico","authors":"Hafeez O. Oladejo ,&nbsp;Diana N. Bernstein ,&nbsp;M. Kemal Cambazoglu ,&nbsp;Dmitri Nechaev ,&nbsp;Ali Abdolali ,&nbsp;Jerry D. Wiggert","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104692","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104692","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study evaluates the performance of WAVEWATCH III model driven by different wind forcing products (ECMWF-forecast, ERA5, HRRR, and Copernicus), as well as the behavior of different parameterizations of the model's source terms controlling energy input and dissipation (ST4, ST6) and quadruplet wave-wave interactions (Discrete Interaction Approximation - DIA, Generalized Multiple DIA - GMD) during Hurricane Ida (2021). We also compare the performance of the model configured on uniform unstructured grids (30, 20, 10, 3, and 1 km) and conventional non-uniform unstructured grids. Key findings show that ECMWF-forecast and HRRR outperformed other wind forcing products in capturing wind speeds relative to buoys, satellite and the revised Atlantic hurricane database (HURDAT2) observations. However, all wind products tended to underestimate wind speeds above 20 m/s, with ECMWF and HRRR occasionally performing better for most wind speed values above 35 m/s relative to observations. The corresponding wave simulation results indicated that Ida's wave fields were better captured by model simulations with ECMWF and HRRR wind products, with biases of 2% against buoys in the Gulf of Mexico and 6% and 3% respectively against satellite data. The wave model source terms comparison results showed that simulations with ST4-DIAs exhibited superior performance in bulk wave analyses and were computationally efficient. Simulation using ST4-GMD with three quadruplets performed better than with five, while those with ST6-DIA and ST6-GMD showed the highest error in bulk metrics. We also highlighted limitations in bulk wave analysis by computing partial H_s and 1D spectra density differences between model and buoy for some selected source terms. This reveals consistent overestimation at the lowest frequency bin (0.05–0.1 Hz) and underestimation of the three higher frequency bins (0.1–0.15; 0.15–2; 0.2–0.49 Hz) with a mix of negative and positive energy density difference across different frequencies. The parameterization ST4-DIA with optimal wind adjustment parameter outperformed other configurations in the three high frequency bins having lowest HH, RMSE, and bias. Lastly, the grid comparison result showed a reduction in H_s bias from 30 km to 1 km grid configuration by up to 13% (over 4 m). The 3 km and 1 km grids generally showed similar results. Conventional unstructured grid with 95k nodes demonstrated comparable or slightly better performance than 1 km grid with 1.86 million nodes. Increasing model's resolution did not reduce wave biases when the wind field was misrepresented, and even the source term with the highest agreement with observations could not compensate for these wind uncertainties.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104692"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156245","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"New 2D laboratory experiments on wave overtopping at vertical walls under impulsive and non-impulsive conditions","authors":"Claudia Cecioni ,&nbsp;Yuri Pepi ,&nbsp;Leopoldo Franco","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104689","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104689","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This paper describes 2D physical model study on wave overtopping at vertical coastal structures. Results of two experimental campaigns are presented, where different wave and geometrical parameters are considered. Wide ranges of relative water depth at the toe of the structure and relative crest freeboard are explored, considering two foreshore slopes in front of the vertical wall. Wave–wall interactions both for pulsating and impulsive regime are tested. The wave overtopping time series measurement allows to analyze not only mean overtopping discharges but also individual overtopping volumes. Single overtopping volumes distribution is investigated relating it to geometrical and hydraulic parameters.</div><div>The present experimental analysis is coherent with the literature, in the already explored range of wave and geometrical parameters of the structure; moreover, it extends the previous findings, providing two main outcomes: (i) new mean wave overtopping measurements for a wider ranges of relative water depth and relative freeboards; (ii) new individual wave overtopping volumes measurements at vertical walls, specifically under impulsive conditions. New insights on the mean overtopping discharge and on the probability distribution of individual overtopping volumes are provided.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104689"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156239","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"From points to waves: Fast ocean wave spatial–temporal fields estimation using ensemble transform Kalman filter with optical measurement","authors":"Feng Wang ,&nbsp;Qidan Zhu ,&nbsp;Chengtao Cai ,&nbsp;Xiaoyu Wang ,&nbsp;Renjie Qiao","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104690","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104690","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Accurate spatial–temporal wave measurement is vital for ocean engineering applications. Although stereo vision shows great potential in this field, performing dense reconstruction requires processing vast amounts of pixel data, which reduces the efficiency of stereo image matching and subsequent point cloud processing. Recently, the paradigm of fusing sparse 3D points with predictions has emerged as a promising solution that balances accuracy and efficiency, yet requires an optimization framework capable of handling both state estimation and robust outlier filtering. Therefore, this study proposes a Kalman filter (KF)-based method for ocean wave field estimation, aiming to improve efficiency through recursion and to remove outliers and interpolation errors in measurements. The method leverages linear gravity wave dispersion relations for prediction, with sparse 3D points interpolated to a uniform grid as measurements. To address limitations of high-dimensional data processing, the study implements the Ensemble Transform Kalman Filter (ETKF), incorporating fuzzy logic to handle potential outliers. By maintaining an ensemble of states and employing ensemble transformation techniques to avoid computationally expensive matrix inversions, ETKF significantly improves recursive processing efficiency. Both CPU and GPU implementations were evaluated on published and field-collected datasets, demonstrating superior performance in efficiency, accuracy, and robustness compared to existing methods under the same paradigm.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104690"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156241","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"GreenSurge: An efficient additive model for predicting storm surge induced by tropical cyclones","authors":"Beatriz Pérez-Díaz,&nbsp;Laura Cagigal,&nbsp;Sonia Castanedo,&nbsp;Valvanuz Fernandez-Quiruelas,&nbsp;Fernando J. Méndez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104691","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104691","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Storm surge is one of the main components of sea level beyond coastal flooding induced by intense storm events such as tropical cyclones (TCs). This component can be estimated using dynamic numerical simulations that consider both the inverse barometer effect induced by pressure gradients and wind setup. However, the dynamic approach can be computationally demanding and time-consuming, particularly for being included in early warning systems of resource-constrained communities. In this study, we introduce as an alternative, a novel additive hybrid model known as GreenSurge. This model relies on the generation of a library of sea-level responses to unitary wind sources from any direction, along with the assumption of a linear dynamics framework for the summation of the spatial and temporal sea-level responses, facilitating the efficient reconstruction of storm surge at regional-to-local scales. To showcase the capabilities of GreenSurge, we have implemented the method in the Pacific Island of Tongatapu (Tonga) to predict the storm surge induced by several TCs and compare its capabilities against dynamic numerical simulations and available tide gauge data. Given its similar accuracy (errors less than 10% of the maximum storm surge value) and higher computational efficiency when compared with dynamic hydrodynamic models, GreenSurge has proven to be a great alternative for reconstructing historical time series, feeding coastal flooding models, or even analysing climate change scenarios.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104691"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156238","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Full-scale tsunami-induced scour around a circular pile with three-dimensional seepage","authors":"Zhengyu Hu,&nbsp;Yuzhu Pearl Li","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104676","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104676","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Seepage flows induced by geophysical tsunamis play a significant role in the tsunami boundary layer dynamics and associated sediment mobility. However, its impact on sediment transport and seabed morphodynamics in the presence of coastal structures remains unclear. In this study, we conduct rigid-bed and morphological simulations to investigate the role of seepage response in full-scale tsunami-induced flow features and sediment transport around a circular pile. The expressions for the onset threshold of sediment transport and the bed load motions are derived considering both bed-slope modifications and three-dimensional seepage forces, which are implemented in the coupled hydrodynamic, morphological, and soil models. The rigid-bed simulations demonstrate that the seabed suction response to the elevation wave can reduce the bed shear stress amplification underneath the contraction of streamlines alongside the pile and lee-wake vortices. The seabed injection response to the depression wave increases the stress amplification. It advances the position of boundary layer separation over the height of the pile, which further changes the lee-wake vortices. Note that the size of the horseshoe vortex and the upward-directed pressure gradient within it are less affected by the seepage flows. In morphological simulations, suspended load transport dominates the scour around the pile. Seabed suction during the elevation wave can slightly reduce the sediment transport rate, decreasing the scour depth, especially at the pile side. Seabed injection during the elevation wave causes exacerbated suspended load transport, leading to a more rapid and severe scour at the back of the pile. This study advances the understanding of seepage effects on tsunami-induced sediment transport and scour around a monopile foundation.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104676"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156237","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wave dissipation induced by flow interactions with porous artificial reefs","authors":"Jianjun Huang ,&nbsp;Ryan J. Lowe ,&nbsp;Marco Ghisalberti ,&nbsp;Jeff E. Hansen","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104688","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104688","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Porous artificial reefs can be used for coastal protection when they are effective at dissipating incident wave energy. Previous studies have used observations of wave interactions with porous reefs to develop empirical formulations to parameterize wave transmission as a function of reef geometry and hydrodynamic parameters. However, such approaches do not distinguish between the different processes that contribute to dissipation, namely wave breaking and drag-induced dissipation. While drag-induced dissipation can be more significant in porous reefs than in conventional rubble mound structures, the mechanisms that govern wave dissipation by drag forces within porous reefs are not well characterized. As a result, there is limited predictive capacity for describing wave-driven hydrodynamic processes in the interior of porous reefs and how these processes translate into wave dissipation. In this study, physical modelling experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the detailed velocity structure, forces and wave dissipation within multi-row and single-row porous cubic artificial reefs that were exposed to a range of non-breaking regular wave conditions and submergence depths. The results reveal how the porous reef modifies the dynamics of the in-reef flows that are responsible for generating horizontal and vertical drag forces. Drag coefficients for different configurations of single- and multi-row reefs were similar and decreased with a reef Keulegan-Carpenter number (defined as the ratio of the wave orbital excursion to a structural hydraulic radius). Rates of wave dissipation derived from changes in wave energy fluxes across the reef could be explained primarily by the work done by horizontal drag forces, with vertical drag forces playing only a secondary role. Finally, the results from this study were used to develop an analytical model to predict drag-induced dissipation by porous reefs, which was shown to accurately predict wave attenuation across the reef as a function of reef, wave, and depth characteristics.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 104688"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2024-12-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143156235","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}