Pub Date : 2025-12-16DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104937
Yufei Wang, Xiaotian Zeng, Yifan Lu, Jiarui Lei
Coastal vegetation reduces wave energy and improves shoreline stability, yet its effectiveness depends on spatial arrangements. This study investigates four vegetation layouts with varied spacing—half vegetated, segmented, staggered, and fully vegetated—using theoretical modeling and laboratory experiments with flexible vegetation models. Laboratory experiments began with force measurements on individual vegetation stems to determine their effective length under varying wave conditions. An analytical model based on energy balance principles predicted the average wave decay coefficient (), compared to the measured wave decay. A combined spacing parameter, , characterizes the relationship between the incoming wave and the vegetation layout, providing a quantitative link between dissipation-driven energy loss and diffraction-driven lateral redistribution. When Sr < 1, wave attenuation is uniform; when Sr > 1, it is non-uniform. Spatial variability in wave attenuation was evaluated using the coefficient of variation (CoV) across the flume width. Results show that the staggered layout achieves uniform wave damping comparable to full coverage, with a smaller vegetation footprint. These findings offer insights for resource-conscious vegetation-based coastal protection strategies.
{"title":"Vegetation layouts influence the spatial uniformity of wave attenuation: Laboratory insights","authors":"Yufei Wang, Xiaotian Zeng, Yifan Lu, Jiarui Lei","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104937","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104937","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Coastal vegetation reduces wave energy and improves shoreline stability, yet its effectiveness depends on spatial arrangements. This study investigates four vegetation layouts with varied spacing—half vegetated, segmented, staggered, and fully vegetated—using theoretical modeling and laboratory experiments with flexible vegetation models. Laboratory experiments began with force measurements on individual vegetation stems to determine their effective length under varying wave conditions. An analytical model based on energy balance principles predicted the average wave decay coefficient (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>K</mi><mi>D</mi></msub></mrow></math></span>), compared to the measured wave decay. A combined spacing parameter, <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>S</mi><mi>r</mi></msub></mrow></math></span>, characterizes the relationship between the incoming wave and the vegetation layout, providing a quantitative link between dissipation-driven energy loss and diffraction-driven lateral redistribution. When <em>S</em><sub><em>r</em></sub> < 1, wave attenuation is uniform; when <em>S</em><sub><em>r</em></sub> > 1, it is non-uniform. Spatial variability in wave attenuation was evaluated using the coefficient of variation (CoV) across the flume width. Results show that the staggered layout achieves uniform wave damping comparable to full coverage, with a smaller vegetation footprint. These findings offer insights for resource-conscious vegetation-based coastal protection strategies.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104937"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145797679","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-15DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104936
Zihao Tang, Yuzhu Pearl Li
Vertical contraction scour occurs when the flow is vertically obstructed by submerged structures, resulting in increased shear stress and scour on the sand bed. In the present study, vertical contraction scour under solid and porous obstacles is investigated with a fully coupled hydrodynamic and morphological sediment transport model and theoretical analysis. The numerical model is validated against our experiments of scour below a rectangular slab. We examined the influence of distance between submerged obstacles and the undisturbed bed (i.e., obstacle elevation) on scour depth. In addition, the effects of obstacle height, length and porosity on scour depth are investigated. A general relationship between obstacle elevation and scour depth is identified, showing three regimes: very small elevation, intermediate elevation, and high elevation when the obstacle emerges above the water surface. A maximum scour depth is observed when the obstacle elevation is approximately 0.15 times the flow depth. Increasing porosity significantly reduces vertical contraction scour, and when porosity exceeds 75 %, the scour depth becomes negligible. The theoretical analysis conducted in the present study demonstrates its ability to estimate the flow rate distribution above and below the obstacles, along with its corresponding effects on bed shear stress. Furthermore, an empirical equation is proposed for predicting pressure scour beneath porous obstacles, showing acceptable accuracy for engineering applications.
{"title":"Vertical contraction scour beneath solid and porous obstacles in steady currents: A numerical and theoretical study","authors":"Zihao Tang, Yuzhu Pearl Li","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104936","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104936","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Vertical contraction scour occurs when the flow is vertically obstructed by submerged structures, resulting in increased shear stress and scour on the sand bed. In the present study, vertical contraction scour under solid and porous obstacles is investigated with a fully coupled hydrodynamic and morphological sediment transport model and theoretical analysis. The numerical model is validated against our experiments of scour below a rectangular slab. We examined the influence of distance between submerged obstacles and the undisturbed bed (i.e., obstacle elevation) on scour depth. In addition, the effects of obstacle height, length and porosity on scour depth are investigated. A general relationship between obstacle elevation and scour depth is identified, showing three regimes: very small elevation, intermediate elevation, and high elevation when the obstacle emerges above the water surface. A maximum scour depth is observed when the obstacle elevation is approximately 0.15 times the flow depth. Increasing porosity significantly reduces vertical contraction scour, and when porosity exceeds 75 %, the scour depth becomes negligible. The theoretical analysis conducted in the present study demonstrates its ability to estimate the flow rate distribution above and below the obstacles, along with its corresponding effects on bed shear stress. Furthermore, an empirical equation is proposed for predicting pressure scour beneath porous obstacles, showing acceptable accuracy for engineering applications.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104936"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145797365","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-12DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104932
Maurizio Brocchini, Francesco Marini, Agnese Baldoni
This study presents the first structured and comprehensive analysis of wave–current interactions at microtidal river mouths, a topic often overlooked in estuarine flood studies. Using long-term observations and modeling from the Misa River (Italy), we reveal how opposing currents significantly alter incoming sea waves, through processes such as wave blocking, steepening, and infragravity wave upriver propagation, leading to increased flood risk and morphological changes. A key contribution of this work lies in the detailed physical analysis of wave–current interaction mechanisms, developed through a combined theoretical and observational approach. The superposition of opposing flows and wave fields modifies wave propagation, bottom boundary layer dynamics, sediment transport, and energy dissipation at river mouths. Observations at the Misa River from monitoring system showed a shift from frequent moderate floods to fewer but more intense events. This change triggered cyclical sediment dynamics and mouth bar reshaping, driven by alternating low-flow accumulation and flood-induced erosion. The upriver propagation of IGWs, typically linked to tidal forcing, was detected despite negligible tides, confirming the dominant role of wave–current interactions. These dynamics, also documented at other microtidal rivers (e.g., Rhône, Mississippi), govern key processes such as sediment transport, nearshore wave patterns, and compound flooding. When river floods coincide with high sea levels, due to storm surge or sea level rise, the extent of flooding can increase substantially, particularly in low-lying urban areas. We give evidence of such process through the results of a novel numerical analysis performed at the Misa River estuary. The paper is an elaboration of the keynote lecture given by the first Author on the same topic at the 38th International Conference on Coastal Engineering.
{"title":"Wave–current interactions within microtidal systems","authors":"Maurizio Brocchini, Francesco Marini, Agnese Baldoni","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104932","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104932","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study presents the first structured and comprehensive analysis of wave–current interactions at microtidal river mouths, a topic often overlooked in estuarine flood studies. Using long-term observations and modeling from the Misa River (Italy), we reveal how opposing currents significantly alter incoming sea waves, through processes such as wave blocking, steepening, and infragravity wave upriver propagation, leading to increased flood risk and morphological changes. A key contribution of this work lies in the detailed physical analysis of wave–current interaction mechanisms, developed through a combined theoretical and observational approach. The superposition of opposing flows and wave fields modifies wave propagation, bottom boundary layer dynamics, sediment transport, and energy dissipation at river mouths. Observations at the Misa River from monitoring system showed a shift from frequent moderate floods to fewer but more intense events. This change triggered cyclical sediment dynamics and mouth bar reshaping, driven by alternating low-flow accumulation and flood-induced erosion. The upriver propagation of IGWs, typically linked to tidal forcing, was detected despite negligible tides, confirming the dominant role of wave–current interactions. These dynamics, also documented at other microtidal rivers (e.g., Rhône, Mississippi), govern key processes such as sediment transport, nearshore wave patterns, and compound flooding. When river floods coincide with high sea levels, due to storm surge or sea level rise, the extent of flooding can increase substantially, particularly in low-lying urban areas. We give evidence of such process through the results of a novel numerical analysis performed at the Misa River estuary. The paper is an elaboration of the keynote lecture given by the first Author on the same topic at the 38th International Conference on Coastal Engineering.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104932"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145797681","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-11DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104934
Rafail Ioannou , Vasiliki Stratigaki , Eva Loukogeorgaki , Peter Troch
Fluid-flexible floating structure interaction studies in Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) remain predominantly two dimensionals, limiting the exploration of three dimensional effects crucial for the design of Very Flexible Floating Structures (VFFSs). To address this gap, this work extends a previously developed Applied Element Method (AEM) beam formulation into a plate formulation within the coupling of the weakly compressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) solver of DualSPHysics and the Multibody Dynamics (MBD) module of Project Chrono. The new structural scheme demonstrates comparable accuracy to established non-linear shell formulations in problems dominated by large displacements. Incorporated into an SPH variable resolution scheme for the fluid phase, the proposed formulation is validated experimentally for flexible floating plates, confirming both the accuracy of the three dimensional AEM framework in fluids and the robustness of the coupling under variable resolution conditions. Thus, the developed fluid-flexible structure interaction model establishes a foundation for advancing the design analysis of VFFSs, including future applications with complex mooring line configurations or large-scale interconnected modular arrays.
{"title":"A novel thin floating plate formulation in SPH: Extension to a three dimensional Applied Element Method framework","authors":"Rafail Ioannou , Vasiliki Stratigaki , Eva Loukogeorgaki , Peter Troch","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104934","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104934","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Fluid-flexible floating structure interaction studies in Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) remain predominantly two dimensionals, limiting the exploration of three dimensional effects crucial for the design of Very Flexible Floating Structures (VFFSs). To address this gap, this work extends a previously developed Applied Element Method (AEM) beam formulation into a plate formulation within the coupling of the weakly compressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) solver of DualSPHysics and the Multibody Dynamics (MBD) module of Project Chrono. The new structural scheme demonstrates comparable accuracy to established non-linear shell formulations in problems dominated by large displacements. Incorporated into an SPH variable resolution scheme for the fluid phase, the proposed formulation is validated experimentally for flexible floating plates, confirming both the accuracy of the three dimensional AEM framework in fluids and the robustness of the coupling under variable resolution conditions. Thus, the developed fluid-flexible structure interaction model establishes a foundation for advancing the design analysis of VFFSs, including future applications with complex mooring line configurations or large-scale interconnected modular arrays.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104934"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145749734","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-05DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104931
Wen Deng , Cyprien Simonnet , Lauren Nolan , David P. Callaghan , Tom E. Baldock
Coral rubble refers to fragments of coral skeleton or reef rock that have broken down through mechanical or chemical processes on reefs. Coral rubble motion under waves can cause larval mortality, bury live corals, and disrupt binding, hindering reef recovery after disturbances. This study integrates tilting base tests (previously applied in sediment transport studies) with wave flume experiments to advance understanding of rubble motion thresholds. Tilting tests on 17 rubble pieces, conducted both in air and underwater, showed no significant difference in critical angles, supporting the use of in-air tests as a practical alternative to more resource-intensive underwater trials. Additional tilting experiments on 24 rubble pieces across three substrate types revealed a mean critical angle of approximately 40° for a 50 % probability of motion, irrespective of substrate characteristics. This suggests that rubble morphology, particularly cylindrical shapes, plays a dominant role by bridging substrate roughness and maintaining stable contact points. Threshold velocities and probabilities of motion for individual rubble pieces were predicted from critical angles and validated against wave flume experiments. A sensitivity analysis of lift force coefficients indicated that a value of approximately 0.35 provided the best agreement between predicted and observed probabilities of motion. Additionally, the sheltering effect of the upwave rubble were examined, revealing that the probability of motion was reduced by 22 % and 50 % for a two-diameter and a one-diameter spacing, respectively. Overall, the findings of this study contribute to risk management frameworks for predicting thresholds of rubble mobilisation, identifying unstable reef areas, assessing recovery potential, and designing targeted restoration interventions.
{"title":"Investigating coral rubble dynamics through tilting base and flume experiments","authors":"Wen Deng , Cyprien Simonnet , Lauren Nolan , David P. Callaghan , Tom E. Baldock","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104931","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104931","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Coral rubble refers to fragments of coral skeleton or reef rock that have broken down through mechanical or chemical processes on reefs. Coral rubble motion under waves can cause larval mortality, bury live corals, and disrupt binding, hindering reef recovery after disturbances. This study integrates tilting base tests (previously applied in sediment transport studies) with wave flume experiments to advance understanding of rubble motion thresholds. Tilting tests on 17 rubble pieces, conducted both in air and underwater, showed no significant difference in critical angles, supporting the use of in-air tests as a practical alternative to more resource-intensive underwater trials. Additional tilting experiments on 24 rubble pieces across three substrate types revealed a mean critical angle of approximately 40° for a 50 % probability of motion, irrespective of substrate characteristics. This suggests that rubble morphology, particularly cylindrical shapes, plays a dominant role by bridging substrate roughness and maintaining stable contact points. Threshold velocities and probabilities of motion for individual rubble pieces were predicted from critical angles and validated against wave flume experiments. A sensitivity analysis of lift force coefficients indicated that a value of approximately 0.35 provided the best agreement between predicted and observed probabilities of motion. Additionally, the sheltering effect of the upwave rubble were examined, revealing that the probability of motion was reduced by 22 % and 50 % for a two-diameter and a one-diameter spacing, respectively. Overall, the findings of this study contribute to risk management frameworks for predicting thresholds of rubble mobilisation, identifying unstable reef areas, assessing recovery potential, and designing targeted restoration interventions.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104931"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145749733","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-02DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104924
Charlotte F.K. Uphues , Graziela Miot da Silva , Arnold van Rooijen , Patrick A. Hesp
The ability to quantify sediment transport and morphological evolution in coastal environments is essential for informed, adaptive management under changing climate conditions. However, predicting sediment dynamics in embayed environments remains challenging. This study applies a coupled wave-flow-sediment model to investigate sediment dynamics within a headland–bay environment in South Australia, exposed to a high-energy, bimodal wave climate. The model was used to assess sediment transport pathways under three modal and storm-driven sea and swell regimes, and to explore variations driven by projected changes in water level and wave forcing. Results showed distinct pathways driven by wave conditions, circulation cells, and water level gradients. Highest transport occurred during southwesterly storm swell and northwesterly storm seas. Alongshore transport gradients indicate erosion and accretion zones, with all regimes showing net accretion in the bay’s north. The southern beaches in the headland’s shadow showed mixed responses, with yearly-weighted averages indicating accretion near the headland and erosion southeastward. Projected future scenarios with more energetic westerly waves enhanced transport and accretion in the north and centre but suggested sediment loss on sheltered beaches. Elevated water levels and more southerly waves reduced transport rates, leading to net sediment loss in the bay. These findings highlight critical erosion areas and sediment sources, demonstrating the value of high-resolution morphodynamic modelling for adaptive coastal planning in headland–bay systems.
{"title":"Modelling sediment dynamics in a high energy coastal embayment","authors":"Charlotte F.K. Uphues , Graziela Miot da Silva , Arnold van Rooijen , Patrick A. Hesp","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104924","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104924","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The ability to quantify sediment transport and morphological evolution in coastal environments is essential for informed, adaptive management under changing climate conditions. However, predicting sediment dynamics in embayed environments remains challenging. This study applies a coupled wave-flow-sediment model to investigate sediment dynamics within a headland–bay environment in South Australia, exposed to a high-energy, bimodal wave climate. The model was used to assess sediment transport pathways under three modal and storm-driven sea and swell regimes, and to explore variations driven by projected changes in water level and wave forcing. Results showed distinct pathways driven by wave conditions, circulation cells, and water level gradients. Highest transport occurred during southwesterly storm swell and northwesterly storm seas. Alongshore transport gradients indicate erosion and accretion zones, with all regimes showing net accretion in the bay’s north. The southern beaches in the headland’s shadow showed mixed responses, with yearly-weighted averages indicating accretion near the headland and erosion southeastward. Projected future scenarios with more energetic westerly waves enhanced transport and accretion in the north and centre but suggested sediment loss on sheltered beaches. Elevated water levels and more southerly waves reduced transport rates, leading to net sediment loss in the bay. These findings highlight critical erosion areas and sediment sources, demonstrating the value of high-resolution morphodynamic modelling for adaptive coastal planning in headland–bay systems.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104924"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145749732","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-01DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104930
Giulio Scaravaglione , Jeffrey A. Melby
Coastal rubble mound armor stability prediction uncertainty is relatively high in the field of civil engineering. The present study aims to provide an in-depth review of the principal sources of stone armor stability uncertainty derived from laboratory experiments. The study delineates the contribution of each source and sub-class to the total uncertainty based on the body of knowledge from the literature and data analysis. Uncertainty is first classified into two main components: aleatory (intrinsic), which is irreducible and arises from the inherent randomness of natural processes, and epistemic uncertainty, which relates to limited knowledge of physical processes, observations, and predictive methods, and can be reduced with appropriate precautions. Epistemic uncertainty is further subdivided into three main categories: data uncertainty (waves and damage), predictive model uncertainty, and experimental errors. The focus is on empirical stability equations and the underlying data and experiments. For each category and sub-class, a semi-quantitative estimation of the coefficient of variation is provided to convey a sense of the magnitude of the component contribution to the total epistemic uncertainty in stability predictions. Results indicate that data uncertainty, particularly related to damage assessment, is the dominant contributor, followed by predictive model uncertainty, while error-related uncertainty have a smaller impact. The findings highlight the importance of improving data quality and standardization to reduce epistemic uncertainty, thereby enhancing the reliability of empirical design models, and supporting more consistent probabilistic design of rubble mound structures.
{"title":"A comprehensive review of the primary sources of uncertainty in stone armor stability","authors":"Giulio Scaravaglione , Jeffrey A. Melby","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104930","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104930","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Coastal rubble mound armor stability prediction uncertainty is relatively high in the field of civil engineering. The present study aims to provide an in-depth review of the principal sources of stone armor stability uncertainty derived from laboratory experiments. The study delineates the contribution of each source and sub-class to the total uncertainty based on the body of knowledge from the literature and data analysis. Uncertainty is first classified into two main components: aleatory (intrinsic), which is irreducible and arises from the inherent randomness of natural processes, and epistemic uncertainty, which relates to limited knowledge of physical processes, observations, and predictive methods, and can be reduced with appropriate precautions. Epistemic uncertainty is further subdivided into three main categories: data uncertainty (waves and damage), predictive model uncertainty, and experimental errors. The focus is on empirical stability equations and the underlying data and experiments. For each category and sub-class, a semi-quantitative estimation of the coefficient of variation is provided to convey a sense of the magnitude of the component contribution to the total epistemic uncertainty in stability predictions. Results indicate that data uncertainty, particularly related to damage assessment, is the dominant contributor, followed by predictive model uncertainty, while error-related uncertainty have a smaller impact. The findings highlight the importance of improving data quality and standardization to reduce epistemic uncertainty, thereby enhancing the reliability of empirical design models, and supporting more consistent probabilistic design of rubble mound structures.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104930"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145749731","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-12-01DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104926
Sarah Krogh Iversen, Mads Røge Eldrup, Thomas Lykke Andersen
To correctly assess the wave loading on coastal and offshore structures in physical model testing, it is necessary to relate the wave forces to the wave kinematics. In the model, reflection may be present and, if neglected, could result in an incorrect evaluation of the load coefficients. Thus, measurement of the wave kinematics in physical model testing of such structures is needed to accurately estimate the load coefficients in the model. However, such measurements can be an expensive and cumbersome task, especially because measurement of the total acceleration, including the convective terms is difficult. Thus, the particle velocities and accelerations are often estimated by a mathematical model established from measurements of the surface elevation. The present work describes how the results from a NL-SORS wave decomposition of nonlinear, short-crested waves measured in physical models can be used for the estimation of the particle velocities and accelerations of such waves. The overall finding is that the wave particle velocities may be accurately estimated in the presence of nonlinear interactions, directional spreading and reflected waves, as opposed to existing methods that estimate the particle velocities assuming that all energy propagate in the same direction. The approach is demonstrated using data of increasing complexity, ranging from simple trichromatic synthetically generated wave fields to numerical, and finally, experimental data.
{"title":"Estimation of wave kinematics of nonlinear multidirectional waves using multiple surface elevation measurements","authors":"Sarah Krogh Iversen, Mads Røge Eldrup, Thomas Lykke Andersen","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104926","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104926","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>To correctly assess the wave loading on coastal and offshore structures in physical model testing, it is necessary to relate the wave forces to the wave kinematics. In the model, reflection may be present and, if neglected, could result in an incorrect evaluation of the load coefficients. Thus, measurement of the wave kinematics in physical model testing of such structures is needed to accurately estimate the load coefficients in the model. However, such measurements can be an expensive and cumbersome task, especially because measurement of the total acceleration, including the convective terms is difficult. Thus, the particle velocities and accelerations are often estimated by a mathematical model established from measurements of the surface elevation. The present work describes how the results from a NL-SORS wave decomposition of nonlinear, short-crested waves measured in physical models can be used for the estimation of the particle velocities and accelerations of such waves. The overall finding is that the wave particle velocities may be accurately estimated in the presence of nonlinear interactions, directional spreading and reflected waves, as opposed to existing methods that estimate the particle velocities assuming that all energy propagate in the same direction. The approach is demonstrated using data of increasing complexity, ranging from simple trichromatic synthetically generated wave fields to numerical, and finally, experimental data.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104926"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145694767","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-11-29DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104925
Thomas Pendergast , Ryan P. Mulligan , Benjamin Davidson , Alexandra Schueller , Kelsey Fall , Dawson Ethier , Nimish Pujara , Jack A. Puleo , Jason Olsthoorn
Contaminants in nearshore regions can have negative consequences for aquatic life, public health, and the economic value of beaches. The associated risk in these regions depends on the relative concentrations of the contaminant at different distances from the shore. To address this concern, we performed passive tracer studies during a series of experiments in a laboratory wave basin, releasing dye near-instantaneously into the swash zone and outside of the breaking zone under monochromatic waves of varying heights and incident angles. By tracking dye patch evolution with cameras, we approximated horizontal diffusivity of the dye from the time rate of change of its variance in the cross-shore and alongshore directions. We performed approximately 50 dye release experiments with a combination of three wave heights and three wave angles. From these experiments, we approximate cross-shore and alongshore diffusivities () and explore parameterizations of these diffusivities on the basis of cross-shore location and wave conditions. The results indicate an order of magnitude increase in both and from the region of wave shoaling to the surf and swash zones. The nearshore diffusivity estimates show good agreement with previous empirical models and values reported in the literature, and for the first time provide insight on the detailed cross-shore distribution of horizontal diffusivity inside and outside of the wave breaking region.
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