Coastal Engineering最新文献_第4页

Laboratory observations of long wave inundation of shorelines in the shadow of islands 岛屿阴影处海岸线长波淹没的实验室观测

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-29 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104923

John T. Goertz , Nikos Kalligeris , Sunghoon Han , James M. Kaihatu , Patrick J. Lynett , Costas E. Synolakis

Observations of coastal inundation on the western coast of South Pagai Island (Indonesia) in the wake of the 2010 Mentawais tsunami revealed up to 50 % more inundation in areas in the shadow zone of a large island (located 4 km offshore of South Pagai) than in open coastal areas. A series of laboratory tests of long waves impacting islands were conducted to verify this observation. Long waves (both solitary waves and evolving “error function” waves) were generated in a large directional wave basin. Laboratory-scale islands were made from sheet metal in two configurations of two different diameters apiece: a full conical cross-section (representing a volcanic island) and a conical section truncated at the water line (representing a fringing reef). The islands were also located at varying distances from the sloping beach. Video imagery taken from cameras mounted on a tank-spanning bridge was used to quantify the runup in the shadow zone of the island. It is shown that the runup inundation on the beach in the shadow zone of each island is amplified relative to the inundation on portions of the beach not facing an island. Comparisons to existing formulations for solitary wave runup on open coast beaches show increasing deviations from these expressions for cases in which the “effective wavelength” of the solitary wave is smaller than the base diameter of the island. In most cases the runup is greatest when the island is closest to the beach, with the next-highest inundation seen when the island is furthest away. This observation is further buttressed by similar trends in energy characteristics and inundation surface area and may be linked to the greater lateral spread of the long wave disturbance seen in larger island distances.

2010年明打威海啸之后，对南巴盖岛（印度尼西亚）西海岸沿海淹没情况的观测显示，一个大岛的阴影区（位于南巴盖岛离岸4公里处）的淹没程度比开阔的沿海地区高出50%。为了证实这一观察结果，进行了一系列长波冲击岛屿的实验室试验。长波（孤立波和演化的“误差函数”波）在大的定向波盆地中产生。实验室规模的岛屿由两种不同直径的金属板制成：一个完整的圆锥形截面（代表火山岛）和一个在水线处截断的圆锥形截面（代表边缘珊瑚礁）。这些岛屿距离倾斜的海滩也有不同的距离。从安装在跨越坦克的桥上的摄像机拍摄的视频图像被用来量化岛屿阴影区的上升。结果表明，相对于非面向岛屿的海滩部分，每个岛屿阴影区的海滩上的累积淹没被放大。与开放海岸海滩上孤立波上升的现有公式的比较表明，在孤立波的“有效波长”小于岛屿基直径的情况下，与这些表达式的偏差越来越大。在大多数情况下，当岛屿离海滩最近时，洪水泛滥程度最高，而当岛屿离海滩最远时，洪水泛滥程度次之。能量特征和淹没面积的类似趋势进一步支持了这一观察结果，并可能与在较大岛屿距离上看到的长波扰动的更大横向传播有关。

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引用次数: 0

A three-dimensional process-based morphodynamic model on orthogonal unstructured grids for coastal applications 基于正交非结构网格的三维过程形态动力学模型

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-27 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104915

Johan Reyns , Bert Jagers , Roshanka Ranasinghe , Herman Kernkamp , Dano Roelvink

This study presents a 3D process-based morphodynamic model that uses orthogonal unstructured grids. It is designed for coastal applications involving complex bathymetry and varying spatial scales. The model extends the Delft3D-FM framework by incorporating full 3D representation of wave, wind, and density-driven effects in the short-wave-averaged, non-linear shallow water equations. The framework includes expressions for wave and roller effects on flow forcing, turbulence, and bed shear stress, and integrates sediment transport and morphodynamic feedback. Multi-fraction sediment transport is supported, and the model tracks stratigraphy through a layered bed composition framework. Features such as infragravity wave dynamics, sediment mass slumping, swash zone slope nudging and morphological acceleration techniques are incorporated to better capture long-term morphological trends as well as storm erosion. The framework supports in-memory model coupling and is fully parallelized, enabling efficient, large-scale simulations. Model verifications presented here include analytical benchmarks and comparisons with laboratory and field observations, demonstrating reliable reproduction of wave–current interaction, sediment transport rates, and bed level changes. The model has the potential to bridge the gap between high-resolution event-scale modelling and long-term morphodynamic prediction, offering a flexible framework to study coastal sedimentary dynamics.

本研究提出了一个基于三维过程的形态动力学模型，该模型使用正交非结构化网格。它是为涉及复杂测深和不同空间尺度的沿海应用而设计的。该模型扩展了Delft3D-FM框架，在短波平均、非线性浅水方程中加入了波浪、风和密度驱动效应的完整3D表示。该框架包括波浪和滚子对流动强迫、湍流和河床剪切应力的影响表达式，并整合了泥沙输运和形态动力反馈。该模型支持多组分沉积物输运，并通过层状地层组成框架跟踪地层。结合了亚重力波动力学、沉积物滑坡、冲积带斜坡推动和形态加速技术等特征，以更好地捕捉长期形态趋势和风暴侵蚀。该框架支持内存中的模型耦合，并完全并行化，从而实现高效、大规模的模拟。本文提出的模型验证包括分析基准和与实验室和现场观测的比较，证明了波流相互作用、沉积物输运率和床面变化的可靠再现。该模型有可能弥合高分辨率事件尺度建模和长期形态动力学预测之间的差距，为研究海岸沉积动力学提供了一个灵活的框架。

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引用次数: 0

Bragg resonant reflection characteristics of the trapezoidal submerged bars on flat and sloped terrain 平坦和倾斜地形下梯形淹没杆的Bragg谐振反射特性

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-24 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104914

Mi-An Xue , Yulu Liang , Jinhai Zheng , Xiaoli Yuan , Cheng Liu

Bragg resonance reflection on flat terrain has been more extensively investigated. However, in reality, offshore sea areas generally have sloping bathymetry. In this study, the Funwave-TVD model, based on the Boussinesq equation is employed to investigate the Bragg resonance reflection characteristics of trapezoidal Bragg submerged bars on flat and sloped terrain. The model is first validated against available experimental data, showing good agreement. Subsequently, the Bragg resonance characteristics on flat and sloped terrain are compared to reveal the influence of slope on Bragg resonance reflection behavior. The coupling effect of sloped terrain and Bragg submerged bars affects the reflected wave height in front of the bars, the deformation of wave at the bar crest, and the phase difference of the wave behind the bars. The influence of submerged bar structures on sloped terrain on the Bragg resonance reflection is also investigated. The results show that increasing the number of submerged bars, their height, top width, and the seabed slope gradient leads to higher reflected wave heights and lower transmitted wave heights. The transmission coefficient increases with greater distance between the submerged bars, and the conditions for the occurrence of Bragg resonance reflection are not limited to a single distance value but exist within a range.

平坦地形上的布拉格共振反射已经得到了更广泛的研究。然而，在现实中，近海海域通常具有倾斜的水深测量。本文采用基于Boussinesq方程的Funwave-TVD模型研究了平坦和倾斜地形上梯形Bragg淹没杆的Bragg共振反射特性。该模型首先与现有的实验数据进行了验证，显示出良好的一致性。随后，比较了平坦和倾斜地形下的Bragg谐振特性，揭示了坡度对Bragg谐振反射行为的影响。坡面地形与Bragg淹没沙洲的耦合效应影响了沙洲前的反射波高、沙洲波峰处的波变形以及沙洲后的波相位差。本文还研究了坡面上的淹没杆结构对Bragg共振反射的影响。结果表明：增大潜坝的数量、高度、顶宽和海底坡度，反射波高增大，透射波高减小；透射系数随潜杆间距离的增大而增大，发生布拉格共振反射的条件并不局限于单一距离值，而是存在于一定范围内。

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引用次数: 0

Beach monitoring: Do we need to survey to spring low tide? 海滩监测：我们是否需要调查春季退潮？

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-24 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104911

Samuel Rose , Chris Blenkinsopp , Andrew Barnes , William Russell , Charlie Thompson

When collecting coastal monitoring data, it is common practice to survey down to spring low tide to capture the maximum extent of the exposed subaerial beach. However, collecting topographic beach data is possible for only a few days per month. By reducing the seaward extent of the survey, the incurred costs and risks to the survey schedule could be greatly reduced. However, this would result in information loss at the lowest extremes of the subaerial beach. This study assesses the feasibility of predicting this part of the beach using deep learning neural networks based on partial beach profile data. A range of network architectures were tested alongside linear extrapolation, which was used as a baseline model. Each model was tested on three beaches with varying morphology, ranging from steep (reflective) to mildly sloping (dissipative). The presence of morphological features was found to play a dominant role in the accuracy of the predicted profiles; profiles with more pronounced cross-shore morphological features, such as sandbars, produced the highest error. While local connectivity of each network architecture was found to be the key factor in producing realistic profiles, the 1D Convolutional Neural Network was found to be the most effective with an average RMSE of between 0.026–0.119 m. This RMSE is not substantially larger than the vertical accuracy of current survey techniques (0.03 m), and the study found that errors of this magnitude have negligible effects when the survey data is used to calculate beach volumes and conduct numerical wave runup analysis to assess coastal flood risk.

在收集海岸监测数据时，通常的做法是调查至春季退潮，以捕捉暴露的陆上海滩的最大范围。然而，每个月只有几天可以收集海滩地形数据。通过减小测量的向海范围，可以大大降低测量进度所产生的成本和风险。然而，这将导致地面海滩最低极端的信息丢失。本研究评估了基于部分海滩剖面数据的深度学习神经网络预测这部分海滩的可行性。一系列网络架构与线性外推一起进行了测试，这被用作基线模型。每个模型都在三个不同形态的海滩上进行了测试，从陡峭（反射）到温和倾斜（耗散）。发现形态特征的存在对预测剖面的准确性起主导作用；具有更明显的跨海岸形态特征的剖面，如沙洲，产生的误差最大。虽然发现每个网络架构的本地连通性是生成真实剖面的关键因素，但发现1D卷积神经网络最有效，平均RMSE在0.026-0.119 m之间。该RMSE并不比当前调查技术的垂直精度（0.03 m）大多少，研究发现，当调查数据用于计算海滩体积和进行数值波浪累积分析以评估沿海洪水风险时，这种量级的误差影响可以忽略不计。

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引用次数: 0

Monitoring beach face morphology from stereo satellite imagery 利用立体卫星图像监测海滩表面形态

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-21 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104905

Shannon Brown , Annika O'Dea , Jeffrey Ruby , Erwin W.J. Bergsma , Rafael Almar , Katherine Brodie

High-resolution topographic data are critical in determining the vulnerability of a beach system to coastal hazards. In this work, five Digital Surface Models (DSMs) of the coastal environment in Duck, NC, USA are generated using a fully remote photogrammetry-based workflow applied to stereo satellite imagery and compared to lidar-derived Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) of the beach face and dune collected by a van-mounted lidar referred to as CLARIS. The workflow applies an autoGCP optimization methodology that automatically identifies matching features between background regional datasets and the new satellite imagery and thus removes the need for manually surveyed or extracted tie points. The resulting DSMs have root mean square differences (RMSDs) of 0.30–0.41 m when compared to the closest CLARIS DEM. Morphologic change over time-scales ranging from 14-days to 4-years is well correlated with the lidar-derived morphologic change (R² = 0.68 − 0.74), although the satellite DSMs contained some small-scale noise on the beach-face. The RMSDs of cross-shore volume change over the same time steps ranged from 6.77 to 21.59 m³/m. Coastal morphological parameters relevant to coastal hazard assessments (dune crest location and elevation, dune toe location, and beach slope) were extracted and compared to mobile or aerial lidar surveys. The satellite-derived parameters captured the observed alongshore variability in each parameter, with RMSDs in dune toe and crest cross-shore positions of 1.06–2.22 m, dune elevation RMSDs of 0.40–0.61 m, and beach slope RMSDs of 0.01–0.05 m/m. Satellite-derived DSMs generated with this workflow thus have the potential to contribute to efforts by coastal scientists and managers to understand the “now-state” of their coastlines and employ cost effective adaptive management techniques.

高分辨率地形数据对于确定海滩系统对海岸灾害的脆弱性至关重要。在这项工作中，美国北卡罗来纳州鸭子市沿海环境的五个数字表面模型（DSMs）是使用完全基于远程摄影测量的工作流程生成的，该工作流程应用于立体卫星图像，并与由车载激光雷达（CLARIS）收集的海滩表面和沙丘的激光雷达衍生数字高程模型（dem）进行比较。该工作流程采用autoGCP优化方法，自动识别背景区域数据集和新卫星图像之间的匹配特征，从而消除了手动测量或提取结合点的需要。与最接近的CLARIS DEM相比，所得dsm的均方根差（rmsd）为0.30-0.41 m。在14天至4年的时间尺度上，尽管卫星DSMs在海滩表面上含有一些小尺度的噪声，但形态变化与激光雷达衍生的形态变化具有良好的相关性（R2 = 0.68−0.74）。跨岸体积变化的rmsd在6.77 ~ 21.59 m3/m之间。提取与海岸灾害评估相关的海岸形态参数（沙丘顶部位置和海拔、沙丘脚趾位置和海滩坡度），并与移动或空中激光雷达调查进行比较。卫星衍生参数捕获了观测到的各参数沿岸变化，沙丘顶和沙丘顶跨岸位置rmsd为1.06 ~ 2.22 m，沙丘高程rmsd为0.40 ~ 0.61 m，海滩坡度rmsd为0.01 ~ 0.05 m/m。因此，由这一工作流程产生的卫星衍生的dsm有可能有助于沿海科学家和管理人员努力了解其海岸线的“现在状态”，并采用具有成本效益的适应性管理技术。

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引用次数: 0

Extreme wave conditions and Tropical Cyclone contributions based on high-resolution wave modeling 基于高分辨率波浪模拟的极端波浪条件和热带气旋贡献

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-19 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104913

Xingkun Xu , Kaushik Sasmal , Zunya Wang , Pavel Tkalich

Accurate estimation of extreme wave conditions and their long-term changes is essential for designing resilient coastal infrastructure in the South China Sea (SCS), where densely populated coastlines face frequent extreme weather events. Based on a nested, high-resolution WAVEWATCH III (WW3) hindcast driven by ERA5 winds (1979–2023), this study identifies spatially heterogeneous trends in significant wave height (

H_{s}

). Notably, the 99th percentile and annual maxima of

H_{s}

show pronounced increases exceeding 1.5 cm/year and 3.0 cm/year, respectively, in the central deep basin, with the most significant seasonal intensification occurring during boreal winter (DJF). To support long-term risk assessment and design, three extreme value analysis (EVA) approaches, GEV annual maxima (AM), GPD peak-over-threshold (POT), and GPD based on declustering (DC), are employed for a comprehensive estimation of extreme wave return levels spanning 10–100 years. While the GEV annual maxima (AM) method generally produces the highest return level estimates at typhoon-prone locations and the POT method yields more conservative values, the declustered (DC) approach provides a reasonable intermediate balance between the two. Specifically, the 100-year return levels estimated by GPD DC reach 8.25 m, 12.36 m, 9.69 m, and 8.40 m at four representative offshore sites (P1–P4), respectively. To assess coastal hazard relevance, a normalized risk index (

H_{s, 100 r p}

/mean

H_{s}

) highlights hotspots along the southeastern coast of Vietnam, the Beibu Gulf, and the Luzon Strait. Building on these spatial patterns, TC contributions are further investigated, representing that Tropical Cyclone–induced extremes dominate the northern SCS, the western Luzon Strait, and the southeastern coast of China, while other synoptic systems may possibly play a larger role in the southwestern regions of SCS.

对极端海浪条件及其长期变化的准确估计对于设计具有弹性的南海沿海基础设施至关重要，南海人口密集的海岸线面临频繁的极端天气事件。基于ERA5风驱动的高分辨率WAVEWATCH III （WW3）嵌套后播（1979-2023），本研究确定了显著波高（Hs）的空间异质性趋势。值得注意的是，在中部深盆地，Hs的第99个百分点和年最大值分别超过1.5 cm/年和3.0 cm/年，其中以寒带冬季（DJF）的季节性增强最为显著。为了支持长期风险评估和设计，采用了GEV年最大值（AM）、GPD超阈值峰值（POT）和基于聚类的GPD （DC）三种极值分析（EVA）方法，对10-100年的极端波回归水平进行了综合估计。GEV年极大值（AM）方法通常在台风易发地点产生最高的回归水平估计，而POT方法产生更保守的值，而散聚（DC）方法在两者之间提供了一个合理的中间平衡。具体而言，GPD DC估计的100年回归水平在四个代表性海上站点（P1-P4）分别达到8.25 m, 12.36 m， 9.69 m和8.40 m。为了评估沿海灾害的相关性，标准化风险指数（Hs，100rp/平均Hs）突出了越南东南沿海、北部湾和吕宋海峡的热点地区。在这些空间格局的基础上，进一步研究了TC的贡献，表明热带气旋引起的极端事件主要发生在南海北部、吕宋海峡西部和中国东南沿海，而其他天气系统可能在南海西南部地区发挥更大的作用。

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引用次数: 0

Fluid-structure interaction of European brushwood groynes in waves and tides: Simulating natural decay 波浪和潮汐中欧洲灌丛石坝的流固相互作用：模拟自然衰变

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-14 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104912

Felix Spröer , Oliver Lojek , Jan Malte Paulsen , Christina Bischoff , Nils Goseberg

Tidal mudflats and salt marshes adapt to sea level rise (SLR) through vertical growth and inland retreat. However, in areas of coastal squeeze where retreat is constrained, SLR may exceed vertical accretion due to limited sediment supply or unfavourable hydrodynamics. In Northern Europe, brushwood groyne fields, historically used for land reclamation, have been constructed to enhance sedimentation and foreshore resilience. These structures, comprising rows of wooden posts with compacted brushwood bundles, create hydrodynamically quiescent zones that facilitate suspended sediment deposition and reduce sediment remobilization by dampening waves and currents. Scholarly and practical interest in optimizing brushwood groyne arrangements continues to rise in the framework of nature-based solutions. Their biodegradable material supports ecological integration but limits structural lifespan and alters flow resistance over time. Thus, a detailed assessment of their flow-retentive properties, accounting for deterioration, is essential for optimization. This study addresses the knowledge gap regarding the evolution of flow resistance in European brushwood groynes. The study assesses current- and wave-structure interactions together with a quantification of material parameters for the confined brushwood along the vertical structure using two laboratory campaigns. Parametrizations are provided through Darcy–Forchheimer and wave transformation coefficients. A Forchheimer coefficient of

β = 1.44

was found to best represent a range of groynes with varying porosities and compositions. Parametrized hyperbolic fits described both wave reflection and transmission behaviour. All parametrizations enable improved design and longevity of brushwood groynes, enhancing their ability to support mudflat and salt marsh resilience, thereby preserving both their ecological and coastal protection functions.

潮汐泥滩和盐沼通过垂直生长和内陆退缩来适应海平面上升。然而，在退缩受限的海岸挤压区，由于泥沙供应有限或不利的水动力，SLR可能超过垂直增生。在北欧，历史上用于土地复垦的灌丛林岗地已经建成，以增强沉积和前海岸的恢复能力。这些结构由一排排木桩和密实的灌木捆组成，形成了水动力静止区，通过抑制波浪和水流，促进悬浮沉积物沉积，减少沉积物的再流动。在以自然为基础的解决方案框架中，对优化灌丛植被安排的学术和实践兴趣继续上升。它们的可生物降解材料支持生态整合，但限制了结构寿命并随着时间的推移改变了流动阻力。因此，详细评估它们的保流性能，考虑恶化，是优化的必要条件。本研究解决了关于欧洲灌丛沟壑区流动阻力演变的知识差距。该研究评估了电流和波浪结构的相互作用，并利用两个实验室活动对沿垂直结构的受限灌丛木的材料参数进行了量化。通过Darcy-Forchheimer和波变换系数提供参数化。Forchheimer系数β=1.44最能代表不同孔隙度和成分的地层。参数化双曲拟合描述了波的反射和透射行为。所有参数化都可以改善灌丛石坝的设计和使用寿命，增强其支持泥滩和盐沼的恢复能力，从而保持其生态和海岸保护功能。

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引用次数: 0

Effect of clay content on the coupled seabed response and local scour around a free-spanning pipeline under combined waves and currents 波浪和水流联合作用下粘土含量对自由跨管道周围海床响应和局部冲刷的影响

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-13 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104910

Hongyi Zhao , Fei Lin , Yaru Gao , Zheng Wang , Mengxiao Li , Xiaoli Liu , Shuang Han , Dong-Sheng Jeng

Scour around submarine pipelines on a sand–clay mixed seabed under combined wave and current loading conditions involves complex interdisciplinary interactions among hydrodynamics, seabed mechanics and sediment transport processes. Although previous studies have addressed the scour or dynamic response of the seabed in isolation, their relationship remains unclear. This study performs laboratory experiments to clarify the integrated processes between local scour and seabed response around pipelines laid on a sand–clay mixed seabed with clay contents ranging from 5% to 20%. The results show that increasing the clay content enhances the dissipation of wave energy and reduces the dynamic pressure under high wave steepness, while simultaneously promoting tunnel scour beneath the pipeline due to cumulative pore pressure build-up. The phenomenon reduces the velocity and local pressure below a pipeline. Furthermore, the presence of clay shifts the maximum oscillatory pore pressures to intermediate depths and alters the residual pressure distributions depending on the extent of the scour. Although upward seepage induced by residual pore pressure in clay-rich seabeds has limited influence on wave-induced shear stress, it plays a critical role in reducing the threshold for sediment initiation, accelerating early-stage scour and increasing suspended sediment concentration (SSC), particularly under large wave steepness (that is,

H / L_{0}

=

0.052). At smaller wave steepness (that is,

H / L_{0}

=

0.018), an addition of 5% clay enhances SSC and promotes scour, while a higher clay content suppresses sediment mobility, where seepage induced by oscillatory pore pressure may play a significant role. An empirical formula incorporating clay content, the Keulegan–Carpenter (KC) number, and the Shields parameter is proposed to support engineering design in mixed sand–clay seabed conditions.

波浪和水流联合作用下的砂-粘土混合海底管道冲刷是水力学、海底力学和输沙过程相互作用的复杂学科。虽然以前的研究孤立地处理了海床的冲刷或动力反应，但它们之间的关系仍不清楚。在粘土含量为5% ~ 20%的砂-粘土混合海床上铺设管道，通过室内实验，阐明管道周围局部冲刷与海底响应的综合过程。结果表明：在高波浪陡度条件下，增加粘土含量可增强波浪能的耗散，降低动压，同时由于累积孔隙压力的积聚，促进管道下方隧道冲刷；这种现象降低了管道下方的速度和局部压力。此外，粘土的存在将最大振荡孔隙压力移至中间深度，并根据冲刷程度改变残余压力分布。虽然富粘土海床中残余孔隙压力引起的向上渗流对波浪剪切应力的影响有限，但在降低起沙阈值、加速早期冲刷和增加悬沙浓度（SSC）方面具有关键作用，特别是在大波浪陡度（即H/L0 = 0.052）下。当波浪陡度较小（H/L0 = 0.018）时，掺5%粘土增强了SSC，促进了冲刷，而掺5%粘土抑制了沉积物的流动性，其中振荡孔压诱发的渗流可能起重要作用。提出了结合粘土含量、Keulegan-Carpenter （KC）数和Shields参数的经验公式，以支持砂-粘土混合海底条件下的工程设计。

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引用次数: 0

A multistep statistical model to derive extreme sea levels for the global coastlines 一个多步骤统计模型，以得出全球海岸线的极端海平面

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104909

Duy Anh Alexandre, Chiranjib Chaudhuri

Coastal flooding due to extreme storm surges, high tides and extreme waves poses a significant threat to communities and ecosystems, especially in low-lying coastal floodplains. Coastal flood risk assessment requires the estimation of extreme sea levels to simulate the inundation extent. We develop an innovative multistep statistical model to estimate extreme sea levels around the global coastlines. Several sources of data are combined and a state-of-the-art extreme value model is employed to derive accurate extreme sea levels worldwide for the present time. Estimation of the still sea level is based on hindcast sea level data using ERA5 reanalysis and hydrodynamic modeling combined with historical records of sea levels from GLOSS-GESLA global tide gauges. This draws strength from the globally complete coverage of hindcast data and the accuracy and localized nature of observed sea level data. Additionally, the wave contribution to extreme sea level is considered, using significant wave height data from ERA5 reanalysis. The estimation of extreme sea levels is based on the Skew Surge Joint Probability Method, a statistical model which accounts for the separation of the sea level into the tide and surge components and has been used successfully to map extreme sea levels in the UK. The tide-surge separation of the sea levels is proven to improve the accuracy of the extreme sea level estimates, yet to our knowledge, such indirect methods have not been used in a global coastal risk assessment. The methodology yields a final database of present time extreme sea levels (18 return periods) for the global coastlines at 10km resolution.

由极端风暴潮、涨潮和极端海浪引起的沿海洪水对社区和生态系统构成重大威胁，特别是在低洼的沿海洪泛平原。沿海洪水风险评估需要估算极端海平面来模拟淹没程度。我们开发了一个创新的多步骤统计模型来估计全球海岸线周围的极端海平面。结合了几种来源的数据，并采用了最先进的极值模式，以获得目前全球范围内的精确极端海平面。静止海平面的估算基于ERA5再分析和水动力模拟的后验海平面数据，并结合GLOSS-GESLA全球潮汐计的海平面历史记录。这得益于全球全面覆盖的后播数据以及观测到的海平面数据的准确性和局地性。此外，利用ERA5再分析的重要波高数据，考虑了波浪对极端海平面的贡献。极端海平面的估计是基于歪斜浪涌联合概率法，这是一种统计模型，它将海平面分为潮汐和浪涌组成部分，并已成功地用于绘制英国的极端海平面图。经证实，潮汐与风暴潮之间的分离可以提高极端海平面估计的准确性，但据我们所知，这种间接方法尚未用于全球沿海风险评估。该方法产生了一个最终的数据库，其中包括当前全球海岸线的极端海平面（18个回归期），分辨率为10公里。

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引用次数: 0

Experimental study of the wave-induced groundwater hydrodynamics under different periods 不同时期波浪诱导地下水水动力的试验研究

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-11-11 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104908

Donghui Zhao , Yihao Zheng , Haijiang Liu

Wave period is a crucial factor in determining the complex wave-induced groundwater hydrodynamics, which however has not been systematically investigated. In this study, laboratory experiments were carried out to illustrate the groundwater hydrodynamics under different wave period conditions in a medium-sized sand beach. Detailed pore-pressure data at various elevations and cross-shore positions, together with the shoreline movement, the exit point mitigation, and the free water surface profile, were measured and recorded to specify the spatiotemporal varying characteristics of the groundwater seepage flows and the groundwater table oscillations under different wave periods. Comparing the results among different swash stages reveals that variations in the surface water level, the seepage face, and the groundwater table under different wave periods lead to notable differences in the instantaneous groundwater responses and distinct statistical characteristics of the seepage flow direction over a wave cycle. From a time-averaged perspective, short-period waves induce stronger seepage flows and larger spatial gradients of the total hydraulic head, while long-period waves lead to less pronounced overall groundwater hydrodynamics. The limited migration extension of the exit point under the short wave period results in smaller intra-cycle oscillations of the groundwater table, while a larger groundwater overheight comparing with the relevant long period results. In addition, two types of groundwater table fluctuations are observed for the short wave period case, i.e., the harmonic oscillation caused by the periodic wave swash, and the wave breaking induced groundwater table oscillation. During its inland propagation, the swash-induced oscillation features with rapid magnitude attenuation but no phase lag, whereas the wave-breaking induced oscillation characterizes by the spatially uniform magnitude while a clear phase lag in the capillary truncated zone. Findings from the present study further enhance our understandings on the wave-induced groundwater hydrodynamics.

波浪周期是决定复杂波致地下水水动力学的关键因素，但目前尚未有系统的研究。本文通过室内试验研究了某中型沙滩不同波浪周期条件下的地下水水动力学。通过测量和记录不同海拔高度和跨岸位置的详细孔隙压力数据，以及岸线运动、出口点缓减和自由水面剖面，明确了不同波周期下地下水渗流和地下水位振荡的时空变化特征。对比不同冲刷阶段的结果发现，不同波周期下地表水位、渗流面和地下水位的变化导致地下水瞬时响应的显著差异和一个波周期内渗流方向的显著统计特征。从时间平均的角度来看，短周期波引起的渗流更强，总水头的空间梯度更大，而长周期波引起的地下水整体水动力不太明显。出口点在短波周期下的有限迁移延伸导致地下水位的周期内振荡较小，而地下水超限比长周期结果更大。此外，在短波周期情况下，观测到两种类型的地下水位波动，即周期性波浪冲刷引起的谐波振荡和破波引起的地下水位振荡。在内陆传播过程中，斜冲振荡具有震级衰减快、无相位滞后的特点，而破波振荡具有震级空间均匀、毛细截断区有明显相位滞后的特点。本文的研究结果进一步加深了我们对波致地下水水动力学的认识。

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引用次数: 0