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Experimental investigation of solitary wave propagation over an elliptical atoll 椭圆环礁上孤立波传播的实验研究
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2026-01-06 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104947
Zhaopei Huang , Gang Wang , Songgui Chen , Hui Fang , Aifeng Tao
The distinct morphology of atolls drives complex three-dimensional hydrodynamics, yet field measurements in these remote environments remain scarce, and numerical models often fail to accurately capture key processes such as wave breaking on steep reef faces. To address this gap, we conducted physical experiments in a wave basin to investigate the propagation of solitary waves across a three-dimensional elliptical atoll under varying water depths and incident wave heights. Results show significant wave reflection, shoaling, and refraction as waves traverse across the atoll. Distinct hydraulic jumps, surge waves, and crest line lag were observed when solitary waves propagated into the lagoon over the emergent reef flat with h = 25 cm and 30 cm. Increased water depth from h = 25 cm to h = 30 cm or 35 cm enhances overtopping at the rear of the lagoon and advances its timing, transforming the leeward wave field from the converged diffracted waves to overtopping transmitted lagoon waves. Importantly, the wave height distribution depends critically on the water depth. When the atoll is emergent with h = 25 cm or 30 cm, wave heights are larger on the windward side and smaller within the lagoon and leeward region. Conversely, when the atoll is submerged with h = 35 cm, significant heights persisted windward, but larger maxima developed at the lagoon-rear and leeward sides. Notably, the measured maximum wave heights significantly exceed those from previous flume studies by a factor of ∼1.4 when the reef flat is at still water level with h = 30 cm and by a factor of ∼2.3 when submerged with h = 35 cm, which is attributed to the inclusion of refraction and diffraction effects in the three-dimensional basin experiments. Furthermore, solitary waves consistently trigger free oscillation within the lagoon across all depths. The free oscillation amplitude increases substantially, and higher-order modes progressively emerge with rising water depth. Future work should extend the study of solitary wave propagation over elliptical atolls by quantifying flow dynamics and incorporating surface roughness effects through high-resolution numerical simulations.
环礁的独特形态驱动着复杂的三维流体动力学,然而在这些偏远环境中的现场测量仍然很少,而数值模型往往不能准确地捕捉到关键过程,如陡峭珊瑚礁表面的波浪破碎。为了解决这一问题,我们在波盆中进行了物理实验,研究了不同水深和入射波高下孤立波在三维椭圆环礁上的传播。结果显示,当波浪穿过环礁时,明显的波浪反射、浅滩和折射。当h = 25 cm和30 cm时,孤立波在礁滩上传播到泻湖时,观察到明显的水力跳跃、浪涌波和波峰线滞后。水深从h = 25 cm增加到h = 30 cm或35 cm,增强了泻湖后部的过顶,并提前了其时间,将下风波场从汇聚绕射波转变为过顶透射泻湖波。重要的是,波高分布在很大程度上取决于水深。当环礁出水h = 25 cm或30 cm时,迎风面浪高较大,泻湖和背风区浪高较小。相反,当环礁被h = 35 cm的海水淹没时,显著的高度在迎风面持续存在,但在泻湖背面和背风面形成了更大的最大值。值得注意的是,当礁滩处于静止水位(h = 30 cm)时,测量到的最大波高明显超过以前水槽研究的结果,高出约1.4倍,而当淹没在水下(h = 35 cm)时,则高出约2.3倍,这是由于在三维盆地实验中包含了折射和衍射效应。此外,孤立的波浪不断触发泻湖内所有深度的自由振荡。随着水深的增加,自由振荡幅度显著增大,高阶模态逐渐出现。未来的工作应该通过量化流动动力学和通过高分辨率数值模拟纳入表面粗糙度效应来扩展椭圆环礁上孤立波传播的研究。
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引用次数: 0
Wave-induced wake dynamics of cylinders with surrogates of marine biofouling 海洋生物污垢替代物的圆柱体波浪诱导尾迹动力学
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-31 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104939
Clemens Krautwald , Constantin Schweiger , Jintian Liu , Christian Windt , David Schürenkamp , Markus Böl , Nils Goseberg
The rapid growth of offshore wind energy, motivated by the demand for sustainable energy solutions and the aim of achieving greenhouse gas neutrality, has led to increased attention to the impact of marine biofouling on substructures such as monopiles and jacket structures. Although the effects of hard biofouling have been studied, soft biofouling remains underexplored. This study investigates flow dynamics and vorticity patterns around eight cylindrical structures subjected to wave loading, with hard and soft biofouling surrogates. Soft biofouling is further divided into stiff and flexible models. Physical experiments are conducted with slender piles (D/L=0.07) in a mid-scale wave flume, covering Reynolds numbers of Re=21042105 and Keulegan–Carpenter numbers of KC=250. Volumetric flow velocities are measured using Particle-Tracking Velocimetry with the Shake-the-Box method. Results show that biofouling alters flow patterns, creating recirculation zones with reverse flow velocities. Vorticity analysis reveals vortex formation in the wake, expanding with wave period and roughness. For the same fibre lengths, flexible biofouling models allow high levels of vorticity to spread further downstream (up to 133%), while stiff models create distinctive recirculation zones with a 18% larger recirculation length. These findings improve understanding of wave-induced wake development for rough surfaces.
由于对可持续能源解决方案的需求和实现温室气体零排放的目标,海上风能的快速增长导致人们越来越关注海洋生物污染对单桩和导管结构等子结构的影响。虽然硬生物污染的影响已经被研究过,但软生物污染的研究还不够充分。本研究研究了八个圆柱形结构在波浪载荷作用下的流动动力学和涡度模式,并使用了软硬生物污垢替代品。软性生物污垢又分为刚性和柔性两种。在中尺度波浪水槽中采用细长桩(D/L=0.07)进行物理实验,雷诺数Re=2⋅104−2⋅105,Keulegan-Carpenter数KC=2−50。体积流速测量采用颗粒跟踪测速与摇盒法。结果表明,生物污染改变了流动模式,形成了流速相反的再循环区。涡度分析揭示了尾迹中涡的形成,随着波浪周期和粗糙度的增大而扩大。对于相同的纤维长度,柔性生物污垢模型允许高水平的涡度进一步向下游扩散(高达133%),而刚性模型产生独特的再循环区域,再循环长度增加18%。这些发现提高了对粗糙表面波浪诱导尾迹发展的理解。
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引用次数: 0
On the buoyancy production term for Reynolds-averaged modelling of breaking waves 论破碎波雷诺数平均模型的浮力产生项
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-29 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104935
Liangyi Yue, Yuzhu Pearl Li
The buoyancy production term has been recognized as essential in turbulence closure models to address the persistent overestimation of turbulence near the air–water interface in Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) simulations of breaking waves. While generally effective, two-equation kω based turbulence models typically use a simple representation of the buoyancy-production term with a constant closure coefficient in the turbulent kinetic energy equation. This can cause turbulence levels to collapse near the interface, essentially to zero within numerical accuracy, resulting in a loss of coupling between the two turbulence model equations. Such a breakdown inhibits the accurate initiation and evolution of turbulence, particularly during wave breaking onset. In this study, we address the decoupling problem by introducing a variable, turbulence-Reynolds-number-based closure coefficient for the buoyancy-production term. This adaptive formulation directly relates the strength of buoyancy production to local turbulence levels. For simulating spilling breaking waves, period-averaged surface elevation profiles show better agreement with experimental measurements. Wave-to-wave variability analysis further highlights the stabilizing effect of the proposed formulation. The notably improved undertow predictions support the use of this variable-coefficient approach in future RANS simulations of surface waves.
在紊流闭合模型中,浮力产生项被认为是解决reynolds -average Navier-Stokes (RANS)破碎波模拟中空气-水界面附近紊流持续高估的必要条件。虽然通常有效,但基于两方程k -ω的湍流模型通常使用湍流动能方程中具有恒定闭合系数的浮力产生项的简单表示。这可能导致湍流水平在界面附近崩溃,在数值精度范围内基本上为零,导致两个湍流模型方程之间失去耦合。这种击穿抑制了湍流的准确起始和演化,特别是在波浪破碎开始时。在本研究中,我们通过为浮力产生项引入一个可变的、基于湍流雷诺数的闭合系数来解决解耦问题。这种自适应公式直接将浮力产生的强度与当地湍流水平联系起来。对于溢出破碎波的模拟,周期平均地表高程曲线与实验测量值吻合较好。波对波的变异性分析进一步突出了所提出的公式的稳定效果。明显改进的暗流预测支持在未来的表面波RANS模拟中使用这种变系数方法。
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引用次数: 0
Subgrid modeling of storm surge inundation in a large coastal city considering building volumes 考虑建筑体量的大型沿海城市风暴潮淹没子网格模型
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-27 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104944
Nobuki Fukui , Nobuhito Mori , Sooyoul Kim , Yuto Okajima , Tomoya Shimura , Takuya Miyashita
The applicability of current subgrid models, particularly drag force models (DFMs), for the simulation of large-scale storm surge inundation in highly urbanized coastal megacities remains unclear, particularly in terms of their performance across varying grid resolutions and their ability to capture complex inundation dynamics at the city scale. This paper proposes an enhanced subgrid model, iDFM-MD, for storm surge inundation over a coastal city, incorporating both building drag and volume effects using a wet fraction formulation based on the authors’ previous subgrid model, iDFM. The proposed model was applied to the numerical modeling of storm surge inundation targeting a large coastal city along Tokyo Bay in a pseudo-global warming scenario involving Typhoon Hagibis (2019). The obtained results were compared with a high-resolution structure-resolving model: iDFM-MD produced better estimates of the inundation starting time, depth, and extent, attributed to the consideration of building volumes. The model could reduce the mean absolute error in the water depth to 0.27 m and improve building-scale inundation classification. A sensitivity analysis of the inundation characteristics helped confirm that the model could maintain its accuracy at resolutions of up to 60 m. Our findings demonstrate the capability of iDFM-MD in providing efficient and accurate predictions of urban inundation under future climatic conditions.
目前的子网格模型,特别是阻力模型(dfm)在高度城市化的沿海特大城市大规模风暴潮淹没模拟中的适用性尚不清楚,特别是在不同网格分辨率下的表现以及在城市尺度上捕获复杂淹没动态的能力方面。本文提出了一个增强的沿海城市风暴潮淹没子网格模型iDFM- md,该模型结合了建筑物阻力和体积效应,使用基于作者之前的子网格模型iDFM的湿分数公式。将该模型应用于2019年台风海贝思(Hagibis)的伪全球变暖情景下东京湾沿海大城市风暴潮淹没的数值模拟。将得到的结果与高分辨率的结构分辨模型进行比较:由于考虑了建筑体积,iDFM-MD对洪水开始时间、深度和范围做出了更好的估计。该模型可以将水深的平均绝对误差降低到0.27 m,提高建筑尺度的淹没分类。对洪水特征的敏感性分析有助于证实,该模型可以在高达60米的分辨率下保持其准确性。我们的发现证明了iDFM-MD在未来气候条件下提供有效和准确的城市淹没预测的能力。
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引用次数: 0
Scour mitigation for squat, shallowly embedded structures 对深蹲、浅埋结构的冲刷缓解
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-26 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104943
Lili Qu , Scott Draper , Hongwei An , Phil Watson
Squat, shallowly embedded subsea structures are widely used in offshore engineering as foundations to support other structures, but they are particularly vulnerable to local scour and undermining due to their geometric characteristics. This study investigates the effectiveness of various design modifications and protection strategies in mitigating scour around such structures under live-bed flow conditions. A comprehensive experimental program was conducted to examine the influence of corner geometry, skirt depth, skirt configuration, and protective countermeasures including rock berms and concrete mattresses. Results show that rounding corners reduces equilibrium scour depth more than 20 %, while deeper skirts delay undermining but may increase scour due to increased flow blockage. Among the tested designs, a configuration with only an inner skirt achieved the greatest scour reduction, by balancing reduced blockage with undermining resistance. Both reactive (post-scour rock dumping) and proactive (pre-installed protection layers) approaches proved effective, with pre-installed systems offering better long-term stability. These findings provide practical insights into scour control for squat offshore foundations, informing both design optimization and protection planning in erosive marine environments.
深蹲、浅埋的海底结构在海上工程中广泛用作支撑其他结构的基础,但由于其几何特性,它们特别容易受到局部冲刷和破坏。本研究探讨了在活床流动条件下,各种设计修改和保护策略在减轻此类结构周围冲刷方面的有效性。进行了一项综合实验计划,以检查角的几何形状,裙边深度,裙边结构以及包括岩石护堤和混凝土床垫在内的保护措施的影响。结果表明,圆角可使平衡冲刷深度降低20%以上,而较深的裙边可以延缓破坏,但可能会增加水流堵塞,从而增加冲刷深度。在测试设计中,只有内裙边的配置通过平衡减少堵塞和破坏阻力,实现了最大的冲刷减少。事实证明,被动(冲刷后倾倒岩石)和主动(预安装保护层)方法都是有效的,预安装系统提供了更好的长期稳定性。这些发现为深蹲海上基础的冲刷控制提供了实用的见解,为侵蚀海洋环境下的设计优化和保护规划提供了信息。
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引用次数: 0
Corrigendum to “Amplification of nonlinear response of floating photovoltaics by coastal topography: Experimental and numerical study” [Coast. Eng., 204 (January 2026), 104876 (2025)] “沿海地形对浮动光伏非线性响应的放大:实验和数值研究”的勘误[海岸]。Eng。, 204(2026年1月),104876(2025年)]
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-24 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104941
Qiujue Jiang , Deqing Zhang , Junfeng Du , Qingping Zou , Anteng Chang , Huajun Li
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引用次数: 0
Small-scale groynes as morphodynamic damper in a macrotidal estuary: A SAE-RR assessment framework 大潮河口小尺度沙坝的形态动力阻尼作用:一个SAE-RR评价框架
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-23 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104942
Ziyan Zhang , Xiaoming Xia , Bing Liu , Tinglu Cai , Huidi Liang , Yining Chen
Small-scale groyne systems in macrotidal environments can stabilize tidal flats. However, their stabilizing performance and functional limits remain poorly quantified. This study investigates a small-scale groyne system in Hangzhou Bay through a 2.5 year monitoring program combining high-frequency Surface Elevation Table (SET) measurements, broad-scale UAV-LiDAR surveys, and sediment dynamic observations. Field observations were subsequently integrated into the SAE-RR framework to enable a systematic assessment of groyne performance. At the site scale, Relative Reduction (RR) metrics reveal that the groyne consistently dampens natural morphodynamics with mean RR values of −0.38 on the sheltered side and −0.14 on the exposed side, and an influence extending approximately five groyne lengths downstream. At the local scale, the Sheltering Asymmetry Efficiency (SAE) metric, derived from SET data, quantifies this effect's strong asymmetry: the groyne suppresses erosion by up to 61 % and reduces accretion by 59 % on its sheltered side compared to the exposed side. Sediment dynamic observations further reveal the underlying mechanism for the damping effect that the groyne creates a gradient in sediment transport capacity by attenuating flow velocity and turbulent kinetic energy. This damping function has an operational limit, diminishing in effectiveness when background variation exceeds ∼0.58 m. These results suggest small-scale groynes as state-dependent morphodynamic dampers whilst SAE-RR as a process-based diagnostic framework for quantifying damping function, thereby providing quantitative constraints essential for implementing adaptive coastal engineering design and management.
大潮环境中的小尺度沙坝系统可以稳定潮滩。然而,它们的稳定性能和功能限制仍然很难量化。本文通过为期2.5年的监测项目,结合高频地表高程表(SET)测量、大尺度无人机-激光雷达(UAV-LiDAR)测量和沉积物动态观测,对杭州湾小型沙坝系统进行了研究。随后,将实地观察结果纳入SAE-RR框架,以便系统评估土石坝的性能。在场地尺度上,相对减少(RR)指标显示,护坡持续抑制自然形态动力学,在遮蔽侧的平均RR值为- 0.38,在暴露侧的平均RR值为- 0.14,并且影响延伸到下游约5个护坡长度。在局部尺度上,来自SET数据的庇护不对称效率(SAE)指标量化了这种强烈的不对称效应:与暴露的一侧相比,受保护的一侧抑制了高达61%的侵蚀,减少了59%的增积。泥沙动力观测进一步揭示了沙坝通过衰减水流速度和湍流动能而形成输沙能力梯度这一阻尼效应的潜在机制。该阻尼函数具有操作极限,当背景变化超过0.58 m时,其有效性就会减小。这些结果表明,小规模的沙坝是状态依赖的形态动力阻尼器,而SAE-RR是基于过程的诊断框架,用于量化阻尼函数,从而为实施自适应海岸工程设计和管理提供必要的定量约束。
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引用次数: 0
A quasi-3D SPH model to simulate wave interaction with permeable breakwaters 模拟波浪与透水防波堤相互作用的准三维SPH模型
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104938
Hassan Akbari, Melika MohammadBeiki
Wave interaction with permeable breakwaters has a direct influence on the stability and hydraulic response of these structures. SPH is a Lagrangian model with the ability to track wave particles within the breakwater layers. Modeling the complex 3D flow among the armors usually requires impractical computational effort. An alternative approach, called quasi-3D, is introduced in this research to approximate the wave penetration patterns through permeable layers. The proposed method is applicable to porous media consisting of large materials with interconnected free spaces. The performance of the proposed method is validated against experimental data, full-3D and 2D macroscopic numerical models. Then, wave run-up over different armor shapes is modeled, and the effects of armor arrangement and the layer's porosity on the results are investigated. In general, comparing the computational costs showed that the proposed model is at least 150 times faster than a full-3D model with the same resolution. Based on the results, it is concluded that overlooking the porosity of armor and underneath layers in numerical models leads to underestimated run-up values. In addition, using a macroscopic approach for modeling armor layer can result in underestimated values because it assumes no surface roughness. However, the macroscopic approach remains a suitable method for modeling the permeability of core layers with fine and wide-graded materials. On the other hand, both roughness and porosity of breakwater layers can be taken into account by the proposed model. Its results demonstrated that the arrangements as well as the shape of armor units have a great influence on the wave propagation pattern, its breaking type, and the forces applied to armor layer. Such information helps designers to estimate the stability of armor blocks accurately with low computational effort, as a function of armor shape and arrangement.
波浪与透水防波堤的相互作用直接影响结构的稳定性和水力响应。SPH是一种拉格朗日模型,具有跟踪防波堤层内波浪粒子的能力。对装甲间复杂的三维流动进行建模通常需要不切实际的计算量。在本研究中引入了一种称为准三维的替代方法来近似波穿过可渗透层的穿透模式。所提出的方法适用于由具有相互连接的自由空间的大块材料组成的多孔介质。通过实验数据、全三维和二维宏观数值模型验证了该方法的有效性。在此基础上,建立了波浪在不同形状装甲上的爬升模型,并研究了装甲布置和装甲层孔隙率对结果的影响。总的来说,计算成本的比较表明,所提出的模型比具有相同分辨率的全3d模型至少快150倍。结果表明,在数值模型中忽略了装甲和下垫层的孔隙率会导致弹跳值被低估。此外,使用宏观方法建模装甲层可能会导致低估的值,因为它假设没有表面粗糙度。然而,宏观方法仍然是模拟具有细级和宽级配材料的岩心层渗透率的合适方法。另一方面,该模型可以同时考虑防波堤层的粗糙度和孔隙率。结果表明,装甲单元的排列形式和形状对波的传播方式、破溃类型和作用在装甲层上的力有很大的影响。这些信息有助于设计者以较低的计算量准确地估计装甲块的稳定性,作为装甲形状和排列的函数。
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引用次数: 0
Experimental study on the local scour around flexible submarine cables exposed to three-dimensional current loading 三维电流载荷作用下海底柔性电缆局部冲刷试验研究
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-19 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104940
Fangyu Wang , Jisheng Zhang , Dongfang Liang , Yee-Meng Chiew , Yakun Guo
The flexible cables are prone to scour-induced damage, posing risks to the safe operation of underwater structures. To investigate these impacts, this study carries out three-dimensional laboratory experiments on local scour around a flexible cable. In the experiments, the flow is unidirectional, and only clear-water scour is considered under a constant water depth of 0.45m. By varying the flow intensity (0.7, 0.8, and 0.9), flow incident angle (α = 60°, 75°, 90°), and cable diameter (D = 5 cm and 6 cm), the paper systematically investigates the mechanisms of the local scour, cable motion, strain, lateral scour development velocity, and quasi-equilibrium scour state.
Due to the flexible nature of the cable, its motion differs from that of a rigid pipeline. There is a significant sagging during the scour process, which is quantified by the vertical displacement of the cable. Cable vibration is also observed, which is closely related to its natural frequency and varying test conditions. The deflection of the cable depends on the cable flexibility, test parameters, and the scour process. The result shows that the strain profile along the cable length typically exhibits a parabolic distribution. A point of discontinuity can be observed in the strain time-history curve, which signifies the completion of the lateral expansion of the span shoulder. Visual observations in the texts are consistent with mechanisms previously reported for seepage-induced pipeline-scour initiation, further supporting the applicability of this mechanism for flexible cable. An asymmetric scour pattern is prominent when the flow is oblique to the cable. A large incident angle leads to a more pronounced speed difference between the lateral scour development in two directions. Higher flow intensity results in an increased scour rate and deeper scour depth, as compared to lower flow conditions. As expected, a larger cable diameter yields a larger scour depth.
柔性电缆易受冲击损伤,对水下结构的安全运行构成威胁。为了研究这些影响,本研究对柔性电缆周围的局部冲刷进行了三维实验室试验。实验中,水流为单向流动,在0.45m恒定水深下,只考虑清水冲刷。通过改变流动强度(0.7、0.8和0.9)、流动入射角(α = 60°、75°、90°)和电缆直径(D = 5 cm和6 cm),系统地研究了局部冲刷、电缆运动、应变、侧向冲刷发展速度和准平衡冲刷状态的机理。由于电缆的柔韧性,它的运动不同于刚性管道。在冲刷过程中存在明显的下垂,这种下垂可以通过索的垂直位移来量化。索的振动与其固有频率和试验条件的变化密切相关。电缆的挠度取决于电缆的柔韧性、测试参数和冲刷过程。结果表明:应变沿索长呈抛物线型分布;应变时程曲线出现一个不连续点,表明跨肩侧胀完成。文中的视觉观察结果与先前报道的渗漏引起的管道冲刷启动机制一致,进一步支持了该机制对柔性电缆的适用性。当水流向电缆倾斜时,不对称冲刷模式突出。大入射角导致两个方向横向冲刷发展速度差更明显。与低流量条件相比,较高的流量强度导致冲刷速率增加,冲刷深度加深。正如预期的那样,电缆直径越大,冲刷深度越大。
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引用次数: 0
Influence of Posidonia oceanica accumulation on beach morphodynamics: A remote sensing study 海洋波西多尼亚堆积对海滩形态动力学影响的遥感研究
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-17 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104933
S. Terracciano , J. Montes , R. Brunetta , P. Cabrita , P. Ciavola , C. Armaroli
Beach morphology is influenced by climate-related changes, such as rising sea levels, shifting weather patterns, and storms, as well as human activities, making continuous monitoring essential for understanding its evolution. Within this dynamic context, some beaches develop morphological features that help attenuate the impact of high-energy events, effectively acting as natural barriers against coastal erosion and flooding. This research explores the role of Posidonia oceanica banquettes, natural seagrass accumulations, in influencing beach dynamics, shoreline stability, and dune development, processes that are common along much of the Mediterranean coast. The study developed a new methodological approach by integrating aerial ortophotos with high-temporal-resolution multispectral satellite imagery, to analyse beach evolution in the presence of Posidonia banquettes, with a focus on the impact of storm events. This approach examines shoreline, dune, and Posidonia accumulations through a combination of remote sensing techniques, enabling both medium-term through Satellite-Derived Shoreline (SDS) (∼10 years) and long-term analyses (∼70 years) using orthophotos. The results highlight the complex interactions between human activities, storm events, and natural processes, particularly the role of Posidonia accumulation in shaping beach and dune morphology. Medium-term analysis has offered detailed perspective on recent beach changes, illustrating fluctuations in Posidonia berms related to storm events and correlating shoreline positions with dune evolution. Meanwhile, long-term orthophotos analysis has provided insights into sediment transport dynamics and revealed trend patterns over extended timeframes. This integration of SDS data and aerial imagery leveraged the identification of “hotspot areas” by analysing the relationship between shoreline changes and dune toe retreat.
海滩形态受到气候相关变化的影响,如海平面上升、天气模式变化、风暴以及人类活动,因此持续监测对了解其演变至关重要。在这种动态环境下,一些海滩形成了有助于减弱高能事件影响的形态特征,有效地充当了抵御海岸侵蚀和洪水的天然屏障。本研究探讨了海洋波西多尼亚(Posidonia oceanica)的软垫、天然海草积累在影响海滩动态、海岸线稳定性和沙丘发展方面的作用,这些过程在地中海沿岸很常见。该研究开发了一种新的方法,通过将航空地形照片与高时间分辨率的多光谱卫星图像相结合,分析波西多尼亚沙滩存在时的海滩演变,重点关注风暴事件的影响。该方法通过结合遥感技术检查海岸线、沙丘和波西多尼堆积,利用正射影像仪实现中期到卫星衍生海岸线(SDS)(~ 10年)和长期分析(~ 70年)。这些结果强调了人类活动、风暴事件和自然过程之间复杂的相互作用,特别是Posidonia积累在形成海滩和沙丘形态中的作用。中期分析对最近的海滩变化提供了详细的看法,说明了波西多尼亚护堤与风暴事件有关的波动,并将海岸线位置与沙丘演变联系起来。与此同时,长期正射影像分析提供了沉积物运移动力学的见解,并揭示了延长时间框架内的趋势模式。通过分析海岸线变化和沙丘脚趾退缩之间的关系,SDS数据和航空图像的整合利用了“热点地区”的识别。
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Coastal Engineering
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