首页 > 最新文献

Coastal Engineering最新文献

英文 中文
Impact of banquette structures on a sandy beach profile: Laboratory experiments 宴会结构对沙滩剖面的影响:实验室实验
IF 4.2 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-14 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104815
Carlos Astudillo-Gutierrez , Joan Pau Sierra , César Mösso , Vicente Gracia
A novel experiment using a mimic banquette is presented. This study investigates the morphodynamic effects of different banquette configurations on a sandy beach under erosive wave conditions. Following a six-hour exposure to irregular waves with significant heights of 0.6 metres, different banquette configurations were tested to assess their role in coastal protection. Wave height evolution, bar parameters, total sediment transport and shoreline position were used to evaluate the coastal protection efficiency of the banquette. The results of the study indicate that all banquette structures effectively reduced the flow of water towards the upper beach, limiting run-up and mitigating backshore erosion compared to a beach without protection. Larger banquettes provided greater stability by forming an active berm that restricted water passage, allowing minimal infiltration. In contrast, smaller banquettes, which allowed overtopping, influenced localized erosion and accretion near the shoreline, while still protecting the upper beach. Morphological changes were primarily observed near the shoreline, while sand profiles in the offshore bar region remained stable due to minimal variations in incident wave heights. Banquette structures also induced wave reflections at their toe, increasing localized erosion, particularly for those preventing overtopping. The findings demonstrate the effectiveness of banquette structures in reducing coastal erosion, with performance variations depending on the size and overtopping capacity. The study offers valuable insights for the optimization of coastal protection strategies, guiding the design of nature-based defences to mitigate erosion impacts on sandy shorelines.
提出了一种新颖的模拟宴会实验。本文研究了在侵蚀波条件下,不同滩形结构对沙滩的形态动力学影响。在经历了6个小时的高度为0.6米的不规则海浪之后,研究人员测试了不同的沙滩配置,以评估它们在海岸保护方面的作用。利用浪高演变、沙洲参数、总输沙量和岸线位置等指标评价了滨滩的海岸防护效果。研究结果显示,与没有防护的海滩相比,所有的沙滩结构都有效地减少了流向上层海滩的水流,限制了上升,减轻了后海岸的侵蚀。较大的软垫提供了更大的稳定性,形成了一个活动的护堤,限制了水的通过,允许最小的渗透。相比之下,较小的沙滩会导致浮顶,影响海岸线附近的局部侵蚀和增生,同时仍能保护上部海滩。形态变化主要发生在海岸线附近,而滨外沙洲区域的沙剖面由于入射波高变化较小而保持稳定。条形结构也会在其脚趾处引起波浪反射,增加局部侵蚀,特别是对于那些防止溢流的结构。研究结果表明,宴会结构在减少海岸侵蚀方面是有效的,其性能变化取决于大小和过顶能力。该研究为海岸保护策略的优化提供了有价值的见解,指导了基于自然的防御设计,以减轻对沙质海岸线的侵蚀影响。
{"title":"Impact of banquette structures on a sandy beach profile: Laboratory experiments","authors":"Carlos Astudillo-Gutierrez ,&nbsp;Joan Pau Sierra ,&nbsp;César Mösso ,&nbsp;Vicente Gracia","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104815","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104815","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A novel experiment using a mimic banquette is presented. This study investigates the morphodynamic effects of different banquette configurations on a sandy beach under erosive wave conditions. Following a six-hour exposure to irregular waves with significant heights of 0.6 metres, different banquette configurations were tested to assess their role in coastal protection. Wave height evolution, bar parameters, total sediment transport and shoreline position were used to evaluate the coastal protection efficiency of the banquette. The results of the study indicate that all banquette structures effectively reduced the flow of water towards the upper beach, limiting run-up and mitigating backshore erosion compared to a beach without protection. Larger banquettes provided greater stability by forming an active berm that restricted water passage, allowing minimal infiltration. In contrast, smaller banquettes, which allowed overtopping, influenced localized erosion and accretion near the shoreline, while still protecting the upper beach. Morphological changes were primarily observed near the shoreline, while sand profiles in the offshore bar region remained stable due to minimal variations in incident wave heights. Banquette structures also induced wave reflections at their toe, increasing localized erosion, particularly for those preventing overtopping. The findings demonstrate the effectiveness of banquette structures in reducing coastal erosion, with performance variations depending on the size and overtopping capacity. The study offers valuable insights for the optimization of coastal protection strategies, guiding the design of nature-based defences to mitigate erosion impacts on sandy shorelines.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104815"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144653238","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Alongshore variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions on an intermediate beach 在一个中间的海滩上,波浪上升和内表面带波浪条件的沿岸变化
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-21 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104822
Annika O’Dea , Britt Raubenheimer , Katherine Brodie , Steve Elgar
<div><div>Alongshore and temporal variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions are investigated on an intermediate beach using lidar-derived elevation transect timeseries. The lidar scanners were deployed at two alongshore locations separated by <span><math><mo>∼</mo></math></span>330 m at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center Field Research Facility in Duck, NC and collected 30 min (41 min) linescan time series at 7.1 Hz (5 Hz) each hour over an 11-day period before, during, and after Hurricane Matthew in October 2016. Runup and water surface-elevation time series at the estimated 0.5-m depth contour were used to determine the extreme runup <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>, the mean runup and inner surfzone water surface elevation, and the significant runup and inner-surf wave heights across sea-swell, infragravity, and all frequency bands. Offshore wave conditions were determined from an array of pressure gauges located in <span><math><mo>∼</mo></math></span>8-m water depth. Results show that the significant wave height in the sea-swell frequency band <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> was intermittently depth-limited in the inner surf zone, with the ratio of significant sea-swell wave height in the inner surf zone to that in about 8-m depth (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi><mo>,</mo><mi>I</mi><mi>S</mi><mi>Z</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>/<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi><mo>,</mo><mn>8</mn><mspace></mspace><mi>m</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>) ranging from 0.42 to 1.31 during low-energy conditions and from 0.19 to 0.39 during high-energy conditions. Significant temporal variability in runup parameters was observed over the 11-day period, with <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> ranging from 1.07 to 3.07 m at the southern lidar location and from 1.45 to 3.36 m at the northern lidar location. Alongshore differences in <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> ranged from 0.00 to 0.90 m, with both <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> and the significant swash height <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi><mi>i</mi><mi>g</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> typically larger at the northern lidar location. Alongshore variability in most inner surfzone and runup parameters was largest during low-energy offshore wave conditions when the inner surf zone was unsaturated, although this trend was weakest in <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>. The mean runup elevation <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>m</mi><mi>e</mi><mi>a</mi><mi>n</mi></
利用激光雷达衍生的高程样条时间序列研究了中间海滩上波浪上升和内表面带波浪条件的沿岸和时间变化。激光雷达扫描仪部署在北卡罗来纳州Duck的美国陆军工程研究与开发中心现场研究设施的两个沿岸位置,相距约330米,并在2016年10月飓风马修之前,期间和之后的11天内以每小时7.1 Hz (5 Hz)的频率收集30分钟(41分钟)的线性扫描时间序列。利用估算的0.5 m深度等值线上的浪涌和水面高程时间序列,确定了极端浪涌R2%、平均浪涌和内表层水面高程,以及海浪、重力和各频段的显著浪涌和内浪高。近海波浪条件由位于~ 8米水深的一系列压力表确定。结果表明:海涌频带HSS显著浪高在内浪带呈间歇性深度限制,低能条件下,内浪带显著浪高与约8m深度(HSS,ISZ/HSS,8m)显著浪高之比在0.42 ~ 1.31之间,高能条件下,显著浪高之比在0.19 ~ 0.39之间;在11 d的时间内,运行参数的时间变化显著,南部激光雷达位置的R2%在1.07 ~ 3.07 m之间,北部激光雷达位置的R2%在1.45 ~ 3.36 m之间。沿岸R2%的差异范围为0.00 ~ 0.90 m,在北部激光雷达位置,R2%和显著浪涌高度Rsig通常都较大。在低能量近岸波条件下,当内浪带不饱和时,大多数内浪带和上升参数的沿岸变化最大,尽管这种趋势在R2%中最弱。静水位以上的平均上升高度Rmean与波浪驱动的内浪带水面超高程仅呈弱相关(Zmean, R2 = 0.23),表明波浪诱导的设置只是影响Rmean的一个因素。虽然显著的海浪冲刷高度RSS和沿岸差异与前滨滩坡度β前滨相关(R2 = 0.59和R2 = 0.70),但R2%、Rmean及其沿岸变化与β前滨无关。R2%和Rmean与内浪带Hsig、ISZ的显著波高相关(R2 = 0.61和R2 = 0.72),且受浪带内波浪耗散模式的强烈影响。这些结果表明,虽然β前滨影响了平均上下冲振荡的幅度,但它对中间海滩上的冲升所达到的总高程的作用较小。此外,研究结果还说明了表层测深的重要性,以及由此产生的表层内波高随时间和沿岸变化的极值和平均上升。
{"title":"Alongshore variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions on an intermediate beach","authors":"Annika O’Dea ,&nbsp;Britt Raubenheimer ,&nbsp;Katherine Brodie ,&nbsp;Steve Elgar","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104822","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104822","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Alongshore and temporal variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions are investigated on an intermediate beach using lidar-derived elevation transect timeseries. The lidar scanners were deployed at two alongshore locations separated by &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mo&gt;∼&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;330 m at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center Field Research Facility in Duck, NC and collected 30 min (41 min) linescan time series at 7.1 Hz (5 Hz) each hour over an 11-day period before, during, and after Hurricane Matthew in October 2016. Runup and water surface-elevation time series at the estimated 0.5-m depth contour were used to determine the extreme runup &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;, the mean runup and inner surfzone water surface elevation, and the significant runup and inner-surf wave heights across sea-swell, infragravity, and all frequency bands. Offshore wave conditions were determined from an array of pressure gauges located in &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;mo&gt;∼&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;8-m water depth. Results show that the significant wave height in the sea-swell frequency band &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; was intermittently depth-limited in the inner surf zone, with the ratio of significant sea-swell wave height in the inner surf zone to that in about 8-m depth (&lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;,&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mi&gt;I&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;Z&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;/&lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;H&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;S&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mo&gt;,&lt;/mo&gt;&lt;mn&gt;8&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mspace&gt;&lt;/mspace&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;) ranging from 0.42 to 1.31 during low-energy conditions and from 0.19 to 0.39 during high-energy conditions. Significant temporal variability in runup parameters was observed over the 11-day period, with &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; ranging from 1.07 to 3.07 m at the southern lidar location and from 1.45 to 3.36 m at the northern lidar location. Alongshore differences in &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; ranged from 0.00 to 0.90 m, with both &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; and the significant swash height &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;s&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;i&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;g&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt; typically larger at the northern lidar location. Alongshore variability in most inner surfzone and runup parameters was largest during low-energy offshore wave conditions when the inner surf zone was unsaturated, although this trend was weakest in &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mn&gt;2&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;%&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;&lt;/span&gt;. The mean runup elevation &lt;span&gt;&lt;math&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;R&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/mrow&gt;&lt;mrow&gt;&lt;mi&gt;m&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;e&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;a&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mi&gt;n&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;/","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104822"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144780894","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
On the uncertainties in stone armor stability 论石甲稳定性的不确定性
IF 4.2 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-05-31 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104790
Giulio Scaravaglione , Jeffrey A. Melby , Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Alessandra Saponieri
The present research aims to investigate the uncertainties in the evaluation of stone armor stability. Data synthesis was achieved by collecting and homogenizing data from 4 distinct studies, considering the inherent variability of the original data. Established stability equations are then applied to the synthetized database to assess both the strengths and limitations of different approaches across deep, shallow, and very shallow water. The results indicate that while nearly all formulations perform well in deep water, some inadequacies emerge in shallow and very shallow water. To address these limitations, the stability equations were recalibrated using the new database, with a focus on error and uncertainty quantification. The refitted Etemad-Shahidi et al. (ES, 2020) and Modified ES (Scaravaglione et al., 2025) equations consistently demonstrate better predictive capability across all water depths. However, damage assessment reveals persistent uncertainties across all formulations, rendering the selection of a single equation inconclusive, mainly due to the high uncertainty of the available laboratory data. Further synthesizing and homogenizing require additional modeling given the varying modeling approaches, the non-homogenous nature of the parametric data, and the limited understanding possible of the detailed laboratory techniques and data analysis carried out.
本研究旨在探讨石甲壳稳定性评价中的不确定因素。考虑到原始数据的内在变异性,通过收集和均匀化来自4个不同研究的数据来实现数据综合。然后将建立的稳定性方程应用到综合数据库中,以评估不同方法在深水、浅水和极浅水中的优势和局限性。结果表明,虽然几乎所有配方在深水中都表现良好,但在浅水和极浅水中出现了一些不足。为了解决这些限制,使用新的数据库重新校准了稳定性方程,重点是误差和不确定度的量化。修正后的Etemad-Shahidi等人(ES, 2020)和修正后的ES (Scaravaglione等人,2025)方程在所有水深均表现出更好的预测能力。然而,损害评估揭示了所有公式中持续存在的不确定性,使得单个方程的选择不确定,主要是由于现有实验室数据的高度不确定性。考虑到不同的建模方法,参数数据的非同质性,以及对详细实验室技术和数据分析的有限理解,进一步的综合和均质化需要额外的建模。
{"title":"On the uncertainties in stone armor stability","authors":"Giulio Scaravaglione ,&nbsp;Jeffrey A. Melby ,&nbsp;Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio ,&nbsp;Marcel R.A. van Gent ,&nbsp;Alessandra Saponieri","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104790","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104790","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The present research aims to investigate the uncertainties in the evaluation of stone armor stability. Data synthesis was achieved by collecting and homogenizing data from 4 distinct studies, considering the inherent variability of the original data. Established stability equations are then applied to the synthetized database to assess both the strengths and limitations of different approaches across deep, shallow, and very shallow water. The results indicate that while nearly all formulations perform well in deep water, some inadequacies emerge in shallow and very shallow water. To address these limitations, the stability equations were recalibrated using the new database, with a focus on error and uncertainty quantification. The refitted Etemad-Shahidi et al. (ES, 2020) and Modified ES (Scaravaglione et al., 2025) equations consistently demonstrate better predictive capability across all water depths. However, damage assessment reveals persistent uncertainties across all formulations, rendering the selection of a single equation inconclusive, mainly due to the high uncertainty of the available laboratory data. Further synthesizing and homogenizing require additional modeling given the varying modeling approaches, the non-homogenous nature of the parametric data, and the limited understanding possible of the detailed laboratory techniques and data analysis carried out.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104790"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144653236","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Surrogate root system modeling — A hybrid dune reinforcement 代根系统建模-混合沙丘加固
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-28 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104835
Lukas Ahrenbeck , Oliver Lojek , Johannes Schattmann , Björn Mehrtens , Constantin Schweiger , Viktoria Kosmalla , David Schürenkamp , Nils Goseberg
Coastal dunes are a critical natural defense against storm surges and sea level rise, yet their stability is increasingly compromised by intensified hydrodynamic forces. To withstand stronger and more frequent storm surges as a result of climate change, engineered natural coastal barriers play an important role. This study systematically investigates the potential of artificial root system surrogates based on the root structure of Ammophila arenaria to augment dune stability under simulated storm surge conditions. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a 1.0 m wide and 90.0 m long wave flume, replicating the geomorphological characteristics of a dune profile from Sankt Peter-Ording, Germany, at a scale of 1:7. Three surrogate materials (i) coir grid, (ii) basalt grid, and (iii) coir mat were evaluated across three distinct placement configurations (Crest-only, Crest-Slope and Crest-Slope-Foot) under hydrodynamic regimes corresponding to collision, minor overwash, and heavy overwash. High-resolution 3D-lidar scanning provided quantitative, continuous assessments of erosion volumes and dune profile changes. The experimental results indicate that the flexibility of the materials, particularly coir grid and coir mat, substantially mitigates erosion through attenuation of incoming waves and sediment retention, while the relatively stiffer basalt grid exhibits inferior performance. Comparative analyses of small-scale experiments demonstrate that strategically designed artificial root systems can reduce erosion by 13.3 % to 47.6 %, thereby matching or surpassing the 23 % to 40 % reductions documented for natural vegetation. These findings provide critical insights for advancing nature-based coastal defense strategies and highlight the necessity for further large-scale investigations to refine material properties and deployment configurations.
海岸沙丘是抵御风暴潮和海平面上升的重要天然屏障,但它们的稳定性日益受到强化的水动力的损害。为了抵御气候变化带来的更强、更频繁的风暴潮,人工设计的天然海岸屏障发挥了重要作用。本研究系统探讨了在模拟风暴潮条件下,以砂氨藻(Ammophila arenaria)根系结构为基础的人工根系替代物增强沙丘稳定性的潜力。实验室实验在一个1.0 m宽、90.0 m长的波浪水槽中进行,以1:7的比例复制了德国圣彼得-奥丁沙丘剖面的地貌特征。三种替代材料(i)椰壳网格,(ii)玄武岩网格,和(iii)椰壳垫在三种不同的放置配置(仅波峰,波峰坡和波峰坡脚)下进行评估,对应于碰撞,轻微冲过和严重冲过的水动力机制。高分辨率3d激光雷达扫描提供了定量、连续的侵蚀量和沙丘剖面变化评估。实验结果表明,材料的柔韧性,特别是椰壳网格和椰壳垫,通过衰减入射波和泥沙滞留,大大减轻了侵蚀,而相对较硬的玄武岩网格表现出较差的性能。小规模试验的对比分析表明,精心设计的人工根系可以减少13.3%至47.6%的侵蚀,从而达到或超过自然植被23%至40%的减少量。这些发现为推进基于自然的海岸防御战略提供了重要见解,并强调了进一步大规模调查以改进材料特性和部署配置的必要性。
{"title":"Surrogate root system modeling — A hybrid dune reinforcement","authors":"Lukas Ahrenbeck ,&nbsp;Oliver Lojek ,&nbsp;Johannes Schattmann ,&nbsp;Björn Mehrtens ,&nbsp;Constantin Schweiger ,&nbsp;Viktoria Kosmalla ,&nbsp;David Schürenkamp ,&nbsp;Nils Goseberg","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104835","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104835","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Coastal dunes are a critical natural defense against storm surges and sea level rise, yet their stability is increasingly compromised by intensified hydrodynamic forces. To withstand stronger and more frequent storm surges as a result of climate change, engineered natural coastal barriers play an important role. This study systematically investigates the potential of artificial root system surrogates based on the root structure of <em>Ammophila arenaria</em> to augment dune stability under simulated storm surge conditions. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a 1.0<!--> <!-->m wide and 90.0<!--> <!-->m long wave flume, replicating the geomorphological characteristics of a dune profile from Sankt Peter-Ording, Germany, at a scale of 1:7. Three surrogate materials (i) coir grid, (ii) basalt grid, and (iii) coir mat were evaluated across three distinct placement configurations (Crest-only, Crest-Slope and Crest-Slope-Foot) under hydrodynamic regimes corresponding to collision, minor overwash, and heavy overwash. High-resolution 3D-lidar scanning provided quantitative, continuous assessments of erosion volumes and dune profile changes. The experimental results indicate that the flexibility of the materials, particularly coir grid and coir mat, substantially mitigates erosion through attenuation of incoming waves and sediment retention, while the relatively stiffer basalt grid exhibits inferior performance. Comparative analyses of small-scale experiments demonstrate that strategically designed artificial root systems can reduce erosion by 13.3<!--> <!-->% to 47.6<!--> <!-->%, thereby matching or surpassing the 23<!--> <!-->% to 40<!--> <!-->% reductions documented for natural vegetation. These findings provide critical insights for advancing nature-based coastal defense strategies and highlight the necessity for further large-scale investigations to refine material properties and deployment configurations.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104835"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144739562","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Impact of mooring configurations on wave attenuation of porous floating breakwater: A comparative experimental study 系泊方式对多孔浮式防波堤波浪衰减影响的对比实验研究
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-08-08 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104823
Kaiqing Luo, Yiyong Dong, Jing Yuan
Floating breakwaters are increasingly used for coastal protection, especially in deep-water environments where traditional fixed breakwaters are impractical. The performance of porous floating breakwaters (PFBs) is highly dependent on their mooring systems, which has not been thoroughly investigated to date. This study presents a comparative experimental investigation of four mooring systems, i.e., fixed, pile-restrained, catenary, and taut, for PFBs, focusing on their wave transmission coefficients (Kt) and motion response (heave, surge and pitch). The PFB, constructed from cubically packed stainless-steel spheres, was subjected to periodic waves with varying steepness and ratio of width (B) to wave length (L). Fixed mooring, with no dynamic response, provided good wave attenuation, especially when fully submerged (Kt0.5 for B/L0.18). Pile-restrained mooring, allowing vertical motion, performed comparably to emerged fixed mooring, with minimal impact from heave motion. Catenary mooring, characterized by high compliance, exhibited poor performance for long waves (Kt>0.8 for B/L<0.3) due to large surge and heave motions. Taut mooring, with high stiffness due to pre-tensioned mooring chains, demonstrated superior attenuation when fully submerged, outperforming fixed mooring in some cases. However, its performance degraded when the PFB was not fully submerged and without the pre-tension. The study highlights the critical role of restricting translational motions (surge and heave) in enhancing wave dissipation. Submergence was also found to be a key factor, with fully submerged PFBs dissipating more energy. These findings provide valuable insights for optimizing mooring systems in practical applications.
浮动防波堤越来越多地用于海岸保护,特别是在深水环境中,传统的固定防波堤是不切实际的。多孔浮式防波堤(PFBs)的性能高度依赖于其系泊系统,迄今为止尚未对其进行深入研究。本研究对固定系泊、桩约束系泊、悬链线系泊和拉紧系泊四种系泊系统进行了对比实验研究,重点研究了它们的波传递系数(Kt)和运动响应(升沉、浪涌和俯仰)。PFB由立方体填充的不锈钢球体构成,经受不同陡峭度和宽度(B)与波长(L)之比的周期波。固定系泊无动力响应,对波浪的衰减效果较好,特别是在完全淹没时(当B/L≥0.18时,Kt≈0.5)。桩约束系泊,允许垂直运动,与出现的固定系泊相比,受升沉运动的影响最小。悬链网系泊具有高顺应性,但由于浪涌和升沉运动较大,在长波(B/L<;0.3时Kt>;0.8)下性能较差。绷紧系泊,由于锚链的预张拉而具有高刚度,在完全淹没时表现出更好的衰减,在某些情况下优于固定系泊。然而,当PFB未完全浸入水中且没有预张力时,其性能下降。该研究强调了限制平动运动(浪涌和升沉)对增强波浪耗散的关键作用。淹没也是一个关键因素,完全淹没的pfb消耗更多的能量。这些发现为在实际应用中优化系泊系统提供了有价值的见解。
{"title":"Impact of mooring configurations on wave attenuation of porous floating breakwater: A comparative experimental study","authors":"Kaiqing Luo,&nbsp;Yiyong Dong,&nbsp;Jing Yuan","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104823","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104823","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Floating breakwaters are increasingly used for coastal protection, especially in deep-water environments where traditional fixed breakwaters are impractical. The performance of porous floating breakwaters (PFBs) is highly dependent on their mooring systems, which has not been thoroughly investigated to date. This study presents a comparative experimental investigation of four mooring systems, i.e., fixed, pile-restrained, catenary, and taut, for PFBs, focusing on their wave transmission coefficients (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>K</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>t</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>) and motion response (heave, surge and pitch). The PFB, constructed from cubically packed stainless-steel spheres, was subjected to periodic waves with varying steepness and ratio of width (<span><math><mi>B</mi></math></span>) to wave length (<span><math><mi>L</mi></math></span>). Fixed mooring, with no dynamic response, provided good wave attenuation, especially when fully submerged (<span><math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>K</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>t</mi></mrow></msub><mo>≈</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>5</mn></mrow></math></span> for <span><math><mrow><mi>B</mi><mo>/</mo><mi>L</mi><mo>≥</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>18</mn></mrow></math></span>). Pile-restrained mooring, allowing vertical motion, performed comparably to emerged fixed mooring, with minimal impact from heave motion. Catenary mooring, characterized by high compliance, exhibited poor performance for long waves (<span><math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>K</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>t</mi></mrow></msub><mo>&gt;</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>8</mn></mrow></math></span> for <span><math><mrow><mi>B</mi><mo>/</mo><mi>L</mi><mo>&lt;</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>3</mn></mrow></math></span>) due to large surge and heave motions. Taut mooring, with high stiffness due to pre-tensioned mooring chains, demonstrated superior attenuation when fully submerged, outperforming fixed mooring in some cases. However, its performance degraded when the PFB was not fully submerged and without the pre-tension. The study highlights the critical role of restricting translational motions (surge and heave) in enhancing wave dissipation. Submergence was also found to be a key factor, with fully submerged PFBs dissipating more energy. These findings provide valuable insights for optimizing mooring systems in practical applications.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104823"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144860383","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Experiments on Tsunami-induced scour at circular and rectangular onshore structures 海啸对圆形和矩形陆上建筑物的冲刷试验
IF 4.2 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-17 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104818
N.S. Amiri , D.J. McGovern , T. Rossetto , R. Day
An experimental study of the scour development around circular and rectangular structures exposed to tsunami-induced flows is presented. Tsunami waves of different periods (147 s, 49 s, and 20 s) are generated in a flume at 1:50 Froude-scaled to analyse the scour processes around these structures. This study demonstrates how the geometry of the structure significantly impacts the scour depths. The results show that the rectangular structure experiences the maximum scour depth compared to square and circular structures, reaching approximately 0.16 m, this is primarily due to a strong vortex caused by the lateral boundary separation and greater blockage ratio. The evolution of scour depth was found to be time-dependent, with the maximum depth achieved early in the inundation phase and slumping observed towards the end of inundation, reducing the final scour depth by approximately one-third.
The analysis of the sediment’s angle of repose in scour processes shows that over-steepened slopes exceeding the natural angle (31°) were observed, reaching maximum slope angles of 84° on the side face and 70° on the front face of rectangular structures. Scour depths depended not on the magnitude of Shields parameter but rather on the duration for which the Shields parameter exceeded its critical threshold (θ>θcr). This research advances our understanding of scour mechanisms acting on different coastal structures, emphasising the influence of wave parameters, structural geometry, and sediment dynamics on scour mechanisms, offering a foundation for developing improved design guidelines for coastal infrastructure resilience against tsunami-induced scour.
本文对圆形和矩形构筑物在海啸作用下的冲刷发展进行了实验研究。不同时期(147秒、49秒和20秒)的海啸波以1:50弗劳德比例在水槽中产生,以分析这些结构周围的冲刷过程。本研究证明了结构的几何形状如何显著影响冲刷深度。结果表明:矩形结构比方形和圆形结构冲刷深度最大,约为0.16 m,这主要是由于侧向边界分离引起的强涡和较大的堵塞比。冲刷深度的演变与时间有关,在淹没阶段早期达到最大深度,在淹没结束时出现滑坡,最终冲刷深度减少约三分之一。冲刷过程中沉积物的休止角分析表明,矩形构筑物的坡面坡度超过了自然坡度(31°),最大坡面坡度为84°,最大坡面坡度为70°。冲刷深度不取决于护盾参数的大小,而是取决于护盾参数超过其临界阈值(θ>θcr)的持续时间。本研究促进了我们对作用于不同海岸结构的冲刷机制的理解,强调了波浪参数、结构几何形状和沉积物动力学对冲刷机制的影响,为制定改进的沿海基础设施抵御海啸冲刷的设计指南提供了基础。
{"title":"Experiments on Tsunami-induced scour at circular and rectangular onshore structures","authors":"N.S. Amiri ,&nbsp;D.J. McGovern ,&nbsp;T. Rossetto ,&nbsp;R. Day","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104818","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104818","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>An experimental study of the scour development around circular and rectangular structures exposed to tsunami-induced flows is presented. Tsunami waves of different periods (147 s, 49 s, and 20 s) are generated in a flume at 1:50 Froude-scaled to analyse the scour processes around these structures. This study demonstrates how the geometry of the structure significantly impacts the scour depths. The results show that the rectangular structure experiences the maximum scour depth compared to square and circular structures, reaching approximately 0.16 m, this is primarily due to a strong vortex caused by the lateral boundary separation and greater blockage ratio. The evolution of scour depth was found to be time-dependent, with the maximum depth achieved early in the inundation phase and slumping observed towards the end of inundation, reducing the final scour depth by approximately one-third.</div><div>The analysis of the sediment’s angle of repose in scour processes shows that over-steepened slopes exceeding the natural angle (31°) were observed, reaching maximum slope angles of 84° on the side face and 70° on the front face of rectangular structures. Scour depths depended not on the magnitude of Shields parameter but rather on the duration for which the Shields parameter exceeded its critical threshold (<span><math><mrow><mi>θ</mi><mo>&gt;</mo><msub><mrow><mi>θ</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>r</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>). This research advances our understanding of scour mechanisms acting on different coastal structures, emphasising the influence of wave parameters, structural geometry, and sediment dynamics on scour mechanisms, offering a foundation for developing improved design guidelines for coastal infrastructure resilience against tsunami-induced scour.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104818"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144653237","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
REEF3D::NHFLOW—A high-performance non-hydrostatic solver for coastal wave propagation REEF3D: nhflow -一种高性能的海岸波传播非流体静力解算器
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-26 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104819
Hans Bihs, Widar Weizhi Wang
In this paper the new three-dimensional non-hydrostatic wave model NHFLOW is presented. It solves the non-hydrostatic Euler equations on a σ-coordinate grid, which follows the free surface and bottom topography, allowing for grid refinement near the water surface. The governing equations are treated with a Godunov-type scheme. A pressure correction algorithm is implemented, which results in excellent dispersion properties. Together, this delivers a unique combination of shock-capturing properties and dispersive wave modeling capabilities. The structure of the coefficient matrix of the Poisson equation is simplified through a deferred correction approach, increasing the iterative solver’s performance significantly. In order to model propagating waves with a high level of accuracy, the numerical fluxes are reconstructed with the fifth-order WENO scheme. Developed within the open-source hydrodynamic framework REEF3D, the new model is fully parallelized and utilizes the domain decomposition strategy with MPI communication between processors. This paper showcases the capabilities of this new and efficient non-hydrostatic model through verification and validation with a range of laboratory and real-world wave propagation cases.
本文提出了一种新的三维非流体静力波模型NHFLOW。它在σ坐标网格上求解非流体静力欧拉方程,该网格遵循自由表面和底部地形,允许在水面附近进行网格细化。控制方程用godunov型格式处理。实现了一种压力校正算法,得到了良好的色散特性。总之,这提供了一个独特的组合冲击捕获特性和色散波建模能力。采用递延修正方法简化了泊松方程系数矩阵的结构,显著提高了迭代求解器的性能。为了高精度地模拟传播波,采用五阶WENO格式重建了数值通量。在开源流体力学框架REEF3D中开发的新模型是完全并行的,并利用处理器之间的MPI通信的领域分解策略。本文通过一系列实验室和现实世界波浪传播案例的验证和验证,展示了这种新的高效非流体静力模型的能力。
{"title":"REEF3D::NHFLOW—A high-performance non-hydrostatic solver for coastal wave propagation","authors":"Hans Bihs,&nbsp;Widar Weizhi Wang","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104819","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104819","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>In this paper the new three-dimensional non-hydrostatic wave model NHFLOW is presented. It solves the non-hydrostatic Euler equations on a <span><math><mi>σ</mi></math></span>-coordinate grid, which follows the free surface and bottom topography, allowing for grid refinement near the water surface. The governing equations are treated with a Godunov-type scheme. A pressure correction algorithm is implemented, which results in excellent dispersion properties. Together, this delivers a unique combination of shock-capturing properties and dispersive wave modeling capabilities. The structure of the coefficient matrix of the Poisson equation is simplified through a deferred correction approach, increasing the iterative solver’s performance significantly. In order to model propagating waves with a high level of accuracy, the numerical fluxes are reconstructed with the fifth-order WENO scheme. Developed within the open-source hydrodynamic framework REEF3D, the new model is fully parallelized and utilizes the domain decomposition strategy with MPI communication between processors. This paper showcases the capabilities of this new and efficient non-hydrostatic model through verification and validation with a range of laboratory and real-world wave propagation cases.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104819"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144756935","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Alongshore velocities and turbulence in the swash and surf zone forced by oblique, monochromatic waves on smooth and rough impermeable beaches 在平滑和粗糙的不透水海滩上,斜的、单色的波浪迫使冲刷和冲浪区的沿岸速度和湍流
IF 4.2 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-06-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104812
Alexandra E. Schueller , Thomas Pendergast , Kelsey Fall , Hyungyu Sung , Dawson Ethier , Ryan P. Mulligan , Jason Olsthoorn , Nimish Pujara , Jack A. Puleo
Wave breaking on beaches drives complex nearshore flow patterns and turbulence. A series of controlled laboratory experiments were conducted to better understand swash and surf zone hydrodynamics on smooth and rough planar impermeable beaches under obliquely incident waves. The experiments were performed in a 26.0 m long, 20.6 m wide, and 1.0 m deep wave basin using a fixed concrete beach with a 1:10 slope. The beach surface was roughened through sandblasting following smooth surface experiments to allow a direct comparison between smooth and rough bed conditions. Regular waves with heights of 0.10 m, 0.125 m, and 0.15 m and a period of 2.0 s were generated with the wave paddle positioned at angles of 0°, 10°, and 20° with respect to the beach. An array of sensors recorded high-frequency data on water surface elevations and velocities at multiple cross-shore positions. Differences in the cross-shore velocities were most evident near the breaker zone, with peak onshore velocities approaching 0.8 m/s. Bed roughness was found to delay wave breaking and modulate velocity profiles compared to smooth bed conditions. Alongshore velocities remained predominantly positive, indicating consistent wave-driven mean flow along the beach, generally increasing with wave paddle angle, and measurements over the smooth bed contained larger nearbed gradients and alongshore flows during flow reversal. Mean nearbed turbulent kinetic energy (k) in the surf zone was on the order of 10−3 m2/s2. Roughness resulted in an increase of nearbed k of approximately 12 % at the sensor closest to wave breaking. Analysis of nearbed Reynolds stresses close to the wave breaking location showed roughly a factor of 2 increase for beach normal waves compared to obliquely incident waves. This may suggest influence of reflections off of the beach increased by the intermediate-to-steep slope in this study.
海滩上的波浪破碎驱动了复杂的近岸流动模式和湍流。为了更好地理解斜入射波作用下光滑和粗糙平面不透水海滩上的冲刷和冲浪带水动力,进行了一系列的室内对照实验。实验在26.0 m长,20.6 m宽,1.0 m深的波浪池中进行,采用固定的混凝土海滩,坡度为1:10。在光滑表面实验之后,通过喷砂对海滩表面进行粗糙处理,以便直接比较光滑和粗糙的床况。当桨叶与海滩的角度分别为0°、10°和20°时,产生高度为0.10 m、0.125 m和0.15 m的规则波,周期为2.0 s。一系列传感器记录了多个跨岸位置的水面高度和速度的高频数据。在破碎带附近,跨岸速度的差异最为明显,陆上速度峰值接近0.8 m/s。与光滑的床面条件相比,粗糙的床面可以延迟波的破碎和调制速度剖面。沿海岸流速主要为正,表明沿海滩的平均流量与波浪驱动的一致,通常随着波桨角的增加而增加,并且在平滑床上的测量结果包含更大的近床梯度和流动反转期间的沿海岸流量。冲浪区的平均近床湍流动能(k)约为10−3 m2/s2。在最接近破波的传感器处,粗糙度导致近床k增加约12%。对靠近破波位置的近床雷诺兹应力的分析表明,与斜入射波相比,海滩正常波大约增加了2倍。这可能表明,在本研究中,中陡坡增加了海滩反射的影响。
{"title":"Alongshore velocities and turbulence in the swash and surf zone forced by oblique, monochromatic waves on smooth and rough impermeable beaches","authors":"Alexandra E. Schueller ,&nbsp;Thomas Pendergast ,&nbsp;Kelsey Fall ,&nbsp;Hyungyu Sung ,&nbsp;Dawson Ethier ,&nbsp;Ryan P. Mulligan ,&nbsp;Jason Olsthoorn ,&nbsp;Nimish Pujara ,&nbsp;Jack A. Puleo","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104812","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104812","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave breaking on beaches drives complex nearshore flow patterns and turbulence. A series of controlled laboratory experiments were conducted to better understand swash and surf zone hydrodynamics on smooth and rough planar impermeable beaches under obliquely incident waves. The experiments were performed in a 26.0 m long, 20.6 m wide, and 1.0 m deep wave basin using a fixed concrete beach with a 1:10 slope. The beach surface was roughened through sandblasting following smooth surface experiments to allow a direct comparison between smooth and rough bed conditions. Regular waves with heights of 0.10 m, 0.125 m, and 0.15 m and a period of 2.0 s were generated with the wave paddle positioned at angles of 0°, 10°, and 20° with respect to the beach. An array of sensors recorded high-frequency data on water surface elevations and velocities at multiple cross-shore positions. Differences in the cross-shore velocities were most evident near the breaker zone, with peak onshore velocities approaching 0.8 m/s. Bed roughness was found to delay wave breaking and modulate velocity profiles compared to smooth bed conditions. Alongshore velocities remained predominantly positive, indicating consistent wave-driven mean flow along the beach, generally increasing with wave paddle angle, and measurements over the smooth bed contained larger nearbed gradients and alongshore flows during flow reversal. Mean nearbed turbulent kinetic energy (<em>k</em>) in the surf zone was on the order of 10<sup>−3</sup> m<sup>2</sup>/s<sup>2</sup>. Roughness resulted in an increase of nearbed <span><math><mrow><mi>k</mi></mrow></math></span> of approximately 12 % at the sensor closest to wave breaking. Analysis of nearbed Reynolds stresses close to the wave breaking location showed roughly a factor of 2 increase for beach normal waves compared to obliquely incident waves. This may suggest influence of reflections off of the beach increased by the intermediate-to-steep slope in this study.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104812"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144671051","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
A new framework for selecting observation points and reconstructing wave fields under sparse observations 稀疏观测条件下观测点选择与波场重构的新框架
IF 4.2 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-18 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104836
Tao Lv , Aifeng Tao , Yuzhu Pearl Li , Gang Wang , Yuanzhang Zhu , Jinhai Zheng
In the context of increasingly frequent typhoons, tropical cyclones, and severe coastal storms that pose growing risks to maritime safety and offshore infrastructure, accurate reconstruction of ocean wave fields under sparse observation conditions has become a critical yet underexplored challenge. We propose a hybrid neural network model that integrates physical prior knowledge into a deep learning framework to optimize key observation point selection and enable high-accuracy reconstruction of wave statistics. The model comprises a U-Net-based decision network (Actor) for selecting observation points and a U-Net–GAN-based reconstruction network (Critic) for wave field recovery. A hybrid loss function incorporating physical constraints and region-specific sensitivity heatmaps guides the model toward high-impact observation areas, while spatial clustering strategies ensure broad spatial coverage. The closed-loop optimization mechanism leverages reconstruction error feedback to iteratively refine both observation strategies and reconstruction performance. Experiments using hourly multi-variable ERA5 reanalysis data in the South China Sea demonstrate that, under sparse observation settings, our approach significantly outperforms conventional deployment strategies in reconstruction accuracy, validating its effectiveness for resource-constrained marine monitoring applications.
在日益频繁的台风、热带气旋和严重的沿海风暴对海上安全和海上基础设施构成越来越大的风险的背景下,在稀疏观测条件下准确重建海浪场已成为一个关键但尚未得到充分探索的挑战。我们提出了一种混合神经网络模型,该模型将物理先验知识集成到深度学习框架中,以优化关键观测点的选择并实现波浪统计的高精度重建。该模型包括基于u - net的观测点选择决策网络(Actor)和基于u - net - gan的波场恢复重建网络(Critic)。结合物理约束和区域特定敏感性热图的混合损失函数将模型引导到高影响观测区域,而空间聚类策略确保了广泛的空间覆盖。闭环优化机制利用重建误差反馈迭代优化观测策略和重建性能。利用南海每小时多变量ERA5再分析数据进行的实验表明,在稀疏观测设置下,我们的方法在重建精度上显著优于传统部署策略,验证了其在资源有限的海洋监测应用中的有效性。
{"title":"A new framework for selecting observation points and reconstructing wave fields under sparse observations","authors":"Tao Lv ,&nbsp;Aifeng Tao ,&nbsp;Yuzhu Pearl Li ,&nbsp;Gang Wang ,&nbsp;Yuanzhang Zhu ,&nbsp;Jinhai Zheng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104836","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104836","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>In the context of increasingly frequent typhoons, tropical cyclones, and severe coastal storms that pose growing risks to maritime safety and offshore infrastructure, accurate reconstruction of ocean wave fields under sparse observation conditions has become a critical yet underexplored challenge. We propose a hybrid neural network model that integrates physical prior knowledge into a deep learning framework to optimize key observation point selection and enable high-accuracy reconstruction of wave statistics. The model comprises a U-Net-based decision network (Actor) for selecting observation points and a U-Net–GAN-based reconstruction network (Critic) for wave field recovery. A hybrid loss function incorporating physical constraints and region-specific sensitivity heatmaps guides the model toward high-impact observation areas, while spatial clustering strategies ensure broad spatial coverage. The closed-loop optimization mechanism leverages reconstruction error feedback to iteratively refine both observation strategies and reconstruction performance. Experiments using hourly multi-variable ERA5 reanalysis data in the South China Sea demonstrate that, under sparse observation settings, our approach significantly outperforms conventional deployment strategies in reconstruction accuracy, validating its effectiveness for resource-constrained marine monitoring applications.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104836"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144671053","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Wave-induced incipient motion of non-buoyant plastic particles: Laboratory experiments 波浪诱导非浮力塑料颗粒的初始运动:实验室实验
IF 4.5 2区 工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL Pub Date : 2025-12-15 Epub Date: 2025-08-08 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104848
Giulia Bonanno , Giovanni Passalacqua , Claudio Iuppa , David R. Fuhrman , Carla Faraci
The incipient motion of nine non-buoyant plastic particles, having different shapes and densities, beneath surface waves is systematically investigated on both smooth and rough beds in a 2D flume. In each test, ten identical particles are placed on the bed, and the threshold for motion is defined when at least half of the particles move during each wave cycle. Experimental results are first compared with the classical Shields curve, originally developed for natural sediments under steady flow. To enhance predictive accuracy, the present dataset was combined with additional data sets from the literature acquired under steady flows, and the consolidated data were subjected to a systematic analysis. As has been established for steady flows, the effects of static friction and hiding-exposure need to be accounted for. However, it is found that these alone are not sufficient to achieve reconciliation with the classical Shields diagram for parameterizing incipient motion conditions. To ensure consistency with classical formulations based on steady flows, the shear velocity near the bed was estimated under wave forcing by applying a phase-averaging method. The peak near-bed velocity during the wave crest phase was extracted and used to compute the corresponding friction velocity. The novelty of this study is that an additional function, depending on the ratio of boundary layer thickness to particle size, has been incorporated to parameterize incipient motion beneath unsteady (oscillatory) wave-induced flows to account for the partial submergence of particles within the boundary layer. After accounting for this additional dependence, reconciliation with the Shields diagram is achieved, with remaining scatters being of the same order of magnitude for all the considered datasets. The proposed framework improves predictions of plastic debris mobility under both steady and wave-driven flow conditions.
在二维水槽中,系统地研究了不同形状和密度的9个非浮力塑料颗粒在表面波下的初始运动。在每次测试中,将10个相同的颗粒放置在床上,并且当在每个波周期中至少有一半的颗粒移动时定义运动阈值。首先将实验结果与经典的盾构曲线进行了比较。为了提高预测精度,本数据集与稳定流下获得的文献中的其他数据集相结合,并对合并后的数据进行系统分析。正如已经建立的稳定流动一样,需要考虑静摩擦和隐藏暴露的影响。然而,我们发现,仅凭这些还不足以与经典的盾构图调和,以参数化初始运动条件。为了保证与基于稳定流动的经典公式的一致性,采用相位平均法估计了波浪强迫作用下床附近的剪切速度。提取波峰相的峰值近床速度,并用于计算相应的摩擦速度。这项研究的新颖之处在于,一个额外的函数,取决于边界层厚度与颗粒大小的比例,已经被纳入参数化非定常(振荡)波诱导流下的初始运动,以解释边界层内颗粒的部分淹没。在考虑了这种额外的依赖性之后,就实现了与Shields图的协调,剩余的散点对于所有考虑的数据集都具有相同的数量级。提出的框架改进了在稳定和波浪驱动流动条件下塑料碎片迁移性的预测。
{"title":"Wave-induced incipient motion of non-buoyant plastic particles: Laboratory experiments","authors":"Giulia Bonanno ,&nbsp;Giovanni Passalacqua ,&nbsp;Claudio Iuppa ,&nbsp;David R. Fuhrman ,&nbsp;Carla Faraci","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104848","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104848","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The incipient motion of nine non-buoyant plastic particles, having different shapes and densities, beneath surface waves is systematically investigated on both smooth and rough beds in a 2D flume. In each test, ten identical particles are placed on the bed, and the threshold for motion is defined when at least half of the particles move during each wave cycle. Experimental results are first compared with the classical Shields curve, originally developed for natural sediments under steady flow. To enhance predictive accuracy, the present dataset was combined with additional data sets from the literature acquired under steady flows, and the consolidated data were subjected to a systematic analysis. As has been established for steady flows, the effects of static friction and hiding-exposure need to be accounted for. However, it is found that these alone are not sufficient to achieve reconciliation with the classical Shields diagram for parameterizing incipient motion conditions. To ensure consistency with classical formulations based on steady flows, the shear velocity near the bed was estimated under wave forcing by applying a phase-averaging method. The peak near-bed velocity during the wave crest phase was extracted and used to compute the corresponding friction velocity. The novelty of this study is that an additional function, depending on the ratio of boundary layer thickness to particle size, has been incorporated to parameterize incipient motion beneath unsteady (oscillatory) wave-induced flows to account for the partial submergence of particles within the boundary layer. After accounting for this additional dependence, reconciliation with the Shields diagram is achieved, with remaining scatters being of the same order of magnitude for all the considered datasets. The proposed framework improves predictions of plastic debris mobility under both steady and wave-driven flow conditions.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104848"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144827621","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
期刊
Coastal Engineering
全部 Acc. Chem. Res. ACS Applied Bio Materials ACS Appl. Electron. Mater. ACS Appl. Energy Mater. ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces ACS Appl. Nano Mater. ACS Appl. Polym. Mater. ACS BIOMATER-SCI ENG ACS Catal. ACS Cent. Sci. ACS Chem. Biol. ACS Chemical Health & Safety ACS Chem. Neurosci. ACS Comb. Sci. ACS Earth Space Chem. ACS Energy Lett. ACS Infect. Dis. ACS Macro Lett. ACS Mater. Lett. ACS Med. Chem. Lett. ACS Nano ACS Omega ACS Photonics ACS Sens. ACS Sustainable Chem. Eng. ACS Synth. Biol. Anal. Chem. BIOCHEMISTRY-US Bioconjugate Chem. BIOMACROMOLECULES Chem. Res. Toxicol. Chem. Rev. Chem. Mater. CRYST GROWTH DES ENERG FUEL Environ. Sci. Technol. Environ. Sci. Technol. Lett. Eur. J. Inorg. Chem. IND ENG CHEM RES Inorg. Chem. J. Agric. Food. Chem. J. Chem. Eng. Data J. Chem. Educ. J. Chem. Inf. Model. J. Chem. Theory Comput. J. Med. Chem. J. Nat. Prod. J PROTEOME RES J. Am. Chem. Soc. LANGMUIR MACROMOLECULES Mol. Pharmaceutics Nano Lett. Org. Lett. ORG PROCESS RES DEV ORGANOMETALLICS J. Org. Chem. J. Phys. Chem. J. Phys. Chem. A J. Phys. Chem. B J. Phys. Chem. C J. Phys. Chem. Lett. Analyst Anal. Methods Biomater. Sci. Catal. Sci. Technol. Chem. Commun. Chem. Soc. Rev. CHEM EDUC RES PRACT CRYSTENGCOMM Dalton Trans. Energy Environ. Sci. ENVIRON SCI-NANO ENVIRON SCI-PROC IMP ENVIRON SCI-WAT RES Faraday Discuss. Food Funct. Green Chem. Inorg. Chem. Front. Integr. Biol. J. Anal. At. Spectrom. J. Mater. Chem. A J. Mater. Chem. B J. Mater. Chem. C Lab Chip Mater. Chem. Front. Mater. Horiz. MEDCHEMCOMM Metallomics Mol. Biosyst. Mol. Syst. Des. Eng. Nanoscale Nanoscale Horiz. Nat. Prod. Rep. New J. Chem. Org. Biomol. Chem. Org. Chem. Front. PHOTOCH PHOTOBIO SCI PCCP Polym. Chem.
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
0
微信
客服QQ
Book学术公众号 扫码关注我们
反馈
×
意见反馈
请填写您的意见或建议
请填写您的手机或邮箱
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
现在去查看 取消
×
提示
确定
Book学术官方微信
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:604180095
Book学术
文献互助 智能选刊 最新文献 互助须知 联系我们:info@booksci.cn
Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。
Copyright © 2023 Book学术 All rights reserved.
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号 京ICP备2023020795号-1