Pub Date : 2025-07-25DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104843
Khurram Riaz , Marion McAfee , Simone Simeone , Salem Gharbia
Coastal erosion is a global environmental challenge affecting biodiversity, infrastructure, and livelihoods. Remote sensing techniques have improved coastal monitoring, yet many studies focus solely on a single shoreline proxy and neglect the influence of extreme waterlines. This study introduces an integrated methodology that concurrently analyses high waterline (HWL) and low waterline (LWL) positions alongside shoreline (SL) trends, providing a more comprehensive view of coastal dynamics. Applied to three morphologically distinct beaches in northwest Ireland (ranging from dissipative to reflective profiles) over 25 years, this approach reveals how extreme tidal excursions modulate long-term shoreline stability. By simultaneously plotting HWL, LWL, and SL positions, the method identifies hotspot areas where large tidal ranges coincide with notable shoreline movements, highlighting sections prone to erosion or rapid sediment turnover. The results show that the two sites with broader, dissipative morphologies exhibit relatively stable or accreting shorelines under consistent extreme waterline trends, whereas the narrower, more reflective beach displays pronounced variability with the greatest landward shoreline retreats. Seasonal analysis further indicates that winter extreme waterlines lie significantly closer to the backshore baseline than in summer, signalling heightened erosion risk during storm seasons. This novel HWL/LWL-integrated approach yields a more accurate representation of coastal processes across different beach types and provides valuable information for coastal management, improving the prediction of erosion hotspots and informing adaptive strategies.
{"title":"Remote sensing techniques for exploring waterline influence on shoreline stability in Northwest Ireland","authors":"Khurram Riaz , Marion McAfee , Simone Simeone , Salem Gharbia","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104843","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104843","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Coastal erosion is a global environmental challenge affecting biodiversity, infrastructure, and livelihoods. Remote sensing techniques have improved coastal monitoring, yet many studies focus solely on a single shoreline proxy and neglect the influence of extreme waterlines. This study introduces an integrated methodology that concurrently analyses high waterline (HWL) and low waterline (LWL) positions alongside shoreline (SL) trends, providing a more comprehensive view of coastal dynamics. Applied to three morphologically distinct beaches in northwest Ireland (ranging from dissipative to reflective profiles) over 25 years, this approach reveals how extreme tidal excursions modulate long-term shoreline stability. By simultaneously plotting HWL, LWL, and SL positions, the method identifies hotspot areas where large tidal ranges coincide with notable shoreline movements, highlighting sections prone to erosion or rapid sediment turnover. The results show that the two sites with broader, dissipative morphologies exhibit relatively stable or accreting shorelines under consistent extreme waterline trends, whereas the narrower, more reflective beach displays pronounced variability with the greatest landward shoreline retreats. Seasonal analysis further indicates that winter extreme waterlines lie significantly closer to the backshore baseline than in summer, signalling heightened erosion risk during storm seasons. This novel HWL/LWL-integrated approach yields a more accurate representation of coastal processes across different beach types and provides valuable information for coastal management, improving the prediction of erosion hotspots and informing adaptive strategies.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"203 ","pages":"Article 104843"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144926566","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-25DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104844
Alberto Fernandez-Perez , Javier L. Lara , Iñigo J. Losada
Port infrastructures are increasingly exposed to the impacts of compound climate hazards, yet current adaptation strategies often lack the flexibility required to deal with uncertain future conditions. This study presents a novel framework to design flexible adaptation strategies for port infrastructures, integrating compound climate risk assessment with an operational monitoring strategy. The framework identifies key climate drivers and their interactions, evaluates adaptation options, and defines a set of signposts, tipping points, and triggers to inform timely decision-making. The approach is applied to a case study at the Port of Llanes (Spain), demonstrating how adaptation options can be prioritized and adjusted in response to evolving climate risks. Results highlight the relevance of monitoring the combined effects of waves, sea level, and wind to anticipate infrastructure failures and service disruptions. This work offers an actionable methodology that port authorities can integrate into master plans to ensure climate-resilient operations, while providing a scalable tool for other critical coastal infrastructures.
{"title":"Flexible adaptation strategies for managing compound climate change risks in port infrastructures","authors":"Alberto Fernandez-Perez , Javier L. Lara , Iñigo J. Losada","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104844","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104844","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Port infrastructures are increasingly exposed to the impacts of compound climate hazards, yet current adaptation strategies often lack the flexibility required to deal with uncertain future conditions. This study presents a novel framework to design flexible adaptation strategies for port infrastructures, integrating compound climate risk assessment with an operational monitoring strategy. The framework identifies key climate drivers and their interactions, evaluates adaptation options, and defines a set of signposts, tipping points, and triggers to inform timely decision-making. The approach is applied to a case study at the Port of Llanes (Spain), demonstrating how adaptation options can be prioritized and adjusted in response to evolving climate risks. Results highlight the relevance of monitoring the combined effects of waves, sea level, and wind to anticipate infrastructure failures and service disruptions. This work offers an actionable methodology that port authorities can integrate into master plans to ensure climate-resilient operations, while providing a scalable tool for other critical coastal infrastructures.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104844"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144739564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-25DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104841
Leo C. van Rijn , Bastiaan J.A. Huisman
This paper is focused on the simulation of longshore sand transport (LST) and associated coastline changes at the central coast of Holland with and without structures using 1D coastline models. Results of 2DH models are also given. Two contrasting sites are considered: 1) the large-scale beach plain south the long breakwaters of IJmuiden and 2) the large scale (mega) nourishment site south of The Hague. Both sites have a coastline that was brought significantly out of equilibrium as a result of the interventions, and the coastline changes involved are therefore very insightful for studying both the development towards the new equilibrium coastline orientation as well as the associated rate of coastline change and longshore transports involved. The LST-values were computed with the semi-empirical LST equation of Van Rijn (2014) and analyzed to better understand the actual drivers for coastal change along the coast of Holland coast and performance of the models. The models were forced with measured and simulated wave data from nearby offshore stations over a relatively long period of time between 1979 and 2021 (40 years). The 1D models provided good hindcast results of the long-term net coastal change at the Sand Motor and IJmuiden. The actual coastal curvature in the shadow zone of the long IJmuiden breakwaters was slightly under-represented, but could be calibrated with moderate adjustments. The effect of the wave shadowing zone in the lee of the IJmuiden breakwaters could be represented with sufficient accuracy either by using nearshore wave conditions (using the SWAN wave model) as well as with a much simpler engineering method for wave diffraction of Kamphuis (1992). For the Sand Motor site, the 1D model provided sufficiently accurate predictions for assessments of erosion along the tip, but the area south of the Sand Motor was not represented well because it is affected by the accelerating tidal current and the wave shadowing of the long breakwaters at Hoek van Holland (entrance to Rotterdam harbour). The estimated net annual longshore transport at the original (undisturbed) coastline at both sites are: about 50,000 m3/yr to north at IJmuiden (km 55–65) and about 100,000 m3/yr to north at the Sand Motor site (at km 109). Annual variations are very large at both sites as the contribution of waves from the south-western and northern sectors can vary considerably. Including the harbour breakwaters of IJmuiden, the net LST increases to 300,000 m3/yr to north at km 66 (south of IJmuiden) due to wave shadowing effects. Similarly after construction of the Sand Motor nourishment, the net LST-values at both flanks of nourishments changed drastically.
本文采用一维海岸线模型，对荷兰中部海岸有无构筑物的海岸沙输运及其相关的海岸线变化进行了模拟。并给出了2DH模型的结果。考虑了两个不同的地点：1)IJmuiden长防波堤以南的大型海滩平原和2)海牙南部的大型（mega）营养场地。这两个地点的海岸线都因干预而明显地偏离了平衡，因此所涉及的海岸线变化对于研究新平衡海岸线方向的发展以及相关的海岸线变化速率和所涉及的海岸运输都非常有意义。利用Van Rijn（2014）的半经验LST方程计算LST值，并对其进行分析，以更好地了解荷兰海岸沿海变化的实际驱动因素和模型的性能。这些模型是用1979年至2021年（40年）相对较长时间内附近海上站的测量和模拟海浪数据进行的。一维模式提供了沙马达和IJmuiden长期净海岸变化的良好后验结果。长IJmuiden防波堤阴影区的实际海岸曲率略显不足，但可以通过适度调整进行校准。IJmuiden防波堤背风处波浪阴影区的影响可以通过近岸波浪条件（使用SWAN波浪模型）以及Kamphuis（1992）波浪衍射的更简单的工程方法来足够精确地表示。对于沙马达站点，1D模型为沿尖端的侵蚀评估提供了足够准确的预测，但沙马达以南的区域没有很好地代表，因为它受到加速的潮流和Hoek van Holland（鹿特丹港入口）长防波堤的波浪阴影的影响。两个站点原始（未受干扰的）海岸线的年净海岸运输量估计为：IJmuiden向北（55-65公里）约50,000立方米/年，Sand Motor站点向北（109公里）约100,000立方米/年。这两个地点的年变化都非常大，因为来自西南和北部的波浪的贡献可能有很大变化。包括IJmuiden的海港防波堤在内，由于波浪阴影效应，净地表温度在km 66 （IJmuiden以南）向北增加到300,000 m3/年。同样，在沙车营养区建设后，营养区两侧的净lst值也发生了巨大变化。
{"title":"Long term modelling of longshore sand transport and coastline changes along central COAST of Holland","authors":"Leo C. van Rijn , Bastiaan J.A. Huisman","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104841","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104841","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This paper is focused on the simulation of longshore sand transport (LST) and associated coastline changes at the central coast of Holland with and without structures using 1D coastline models. Results of 2DH models are also given. Two contrasting sites are considered: 1) the large-scale beach plain south the long breakwaters of IJmuiden and 2) the large scale (mega) nourishment site south of The Hague. Both sites have a coastline that was brought significantly out of equilibrium as a result of the interventions, and the coastline changes involved are therefore very insightful for studying both the development towards the new equilibrium coastline orientation as well as the associated rate of coastline change and longshore transports involved. The LST-values were computed with the semi-empirical LST equation of Van Rijn (2014) and analyzed to better understand the actual drivers for coastal change along the coast of Holland coast and performance of the models. The models were forced with measured and simulated wave data from nearby offshore stations over a relatively long period of time between 1979 and 2021 (40 years). The 1D models provided good hindcast results of the long-term net coastal change at the Sand Motor and IJmuiden. The actual coastal curvature in the shadow zone of the long IJmuiden breakwaters was slightly under-represented, but could be calibrated with moderate adjustments. The effect of the wave shadowing zone in the lee of the IJmuiden breakwaters could be represented with sufficient accuracy either by using nearshore wave conditions (using the SWAN wave model) as well as with a much simpler engineering method for wave diffraction of Kamphuis (1992). For the Sand Motor site, the 1D model provided sufficiently accurate predictions for assessments of erosion along the tip, but the area south of the Sand Motor was not represented well because it is affected by the accelerating tidal current and the wave shadowing of the long breakwaters at Hoek van Holland (entrance to Rotterdam harbour). The estimated net annual longshore transport at the original (undisturbed) coastline at both sites are: about 50,000 m<sup>3</sup>/yr to north at IJmuiden (km 55–65) and about 100,000 m<sup>3</sup>/yr to north at the Sand Motor site (at km 109). Annual variations are very large at both sites as the contribution of waves from the south-western and northern sectors can vary considerably. Including the harbour breakwaters of IJmuiden, the net LST increases to 300,000 m<sup>3</sup>/yr to north at km 66 (south of IJmuiden) due to wave shadowing effects. Similarly after construction of the Sand Motor nourishment, the net LST-values at both flanks of nourishments changed drastically.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104841"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144771009","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-24DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104842
Chunguang Yuan , Mingxiao Xie , Jinquan Wang , Xiaoliang Xia , Long Xiao , Na Zhang , Cheng Cui
<div><div>Silt is widely distributed in offshore regions where numerous marine structures are located. Compared to sandy bed, silt exhibits lower cohesion and consolidation characteristics, which can significantly influence sediment transport processes. However, there remains a lack of research on local scour and its temporal evolution around circular monopiles in silty beds. This study presents an experimental investigation of equilibrium scour depth and scour process around a slender circular pile in a silty bed (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>d</mi><mn>50</mn></msub></mrow></math></span> = 0.075 mm, <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>ρ</mi><mi>d</mi></msub></mrow></math></span> = 1.64 g/cm<sup>3</sup>) under steady current and wave-current combined conditions. The normalized scour depth and the dimensionless scour time scale <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> in the silty bed were compared with those in sandy beds under corresponding hydrodynamic conditions, and the effects of parameters e.g. relative water depth, Keulegan–Carpenter (<em>KC</em>) number, relative current strength <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span> and Shields parameter were analyzed. Results show that the maximum scour depth around a monopile in the silty bed primarily occurs at the pile sides. Wave superposition significantly influences the scour hole size and the slope angle. Under steady current, the normalized scour depth of the silty bed is generally lower than that of sandy beds and increases with the relative Shields parameter and relative water depth. Conversely, <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> in the silty bed is significantly larger than that of the sandy bed and decreases with increasing relative Shields parameter and decreasing relative water depth. Under combined wave-current conditions, the scour depth in the silty bed exhibits a non-monotonic increase-decrease trend with the increase of <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>, peaking at <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span> = 0.8–0.9. For a given <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>, due to weaker inter-particle interlocking force, larger sediment transport capacity and reduced bedload supply applied in this study, partial scour depths in the silty bed exceed those in sandy beds with larger <em>KC</em> numbers. <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> in the silty bed is approximately 10–100 times greater than that of sandy beds under similar hydrodynamic conditions. As <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span> and wave-induced Shields parameter increase, <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> sh
{"title":"Experimental investigation on local scour evolution around a circular monopile in the silty bed under wave-current combinations","authors":"Chunguang Yuan , Mingxiao Xie , Jinquan Wang , Xiaoliang Xia , Long Xiao , Na Zhang , Cheng Cui","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104842","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104842","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Silt is widely distributed in offshore regions where numerous marine structures are located. Compared to sandy bed, silt exhibits lower cohesion and consolidation characteristics, which can significantly influence sediment transport processes. However, there remains a lack of research on local scour and its temporal evolution around circular monopiles in silty beds. This study presents an experimental investigation of equilibrium scour depth and scour process around a slender circular pile in a silty bed (<span><math><mrow><msub><mi>d</mi><mn>50</mn></msub></mrow></math></span> = 0.075 mm, <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>ρ</mi><mi>d</mi></msub></mrow></math></span> = 1.64 g/cm<sup>3</sup>) under steady current and wave-current combined conditions. The normalized scour depth and the dimensionless scour time scale <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> in the silty bed were compared with those in sandy beds under corresponding hydrodynamic conditions, and the effects of parameters e.g. relative water depth, Keulegan–Carpenter (<em>KC</em>) number, relative current strength <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span> and Shields parameter were analyzed. Results show that the maximum scour depth around a monopile in the silty bed primarily occurs at the pile sides. Wave superposition significantly influences the scour hole size and the slope angle. Under steady current, the normalized scour depth of the silty bed is generally lower than that of sandy beds and increases with the relative Shields parameter and relative water depth. Conversely, <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> in the silty bed is significantly larger than that of the sandy bed and decreases with increasing relative Shields parameter and decreasing relative water depth. Under combined wave-current conditions, the scour depth in the silty bed exhibits a non-monotonic increase-decrease trend with the increase of <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>, peaking at <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span> = 0.8–0.9. For a given <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span>, due to weaker inter-particle interlocking force, larger sediment transport capacity and reduced bedload supply applied in this study, partial scour depths in the silty bed exceed those in sandy beds with larger <em>KC</em> numbers. <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> in the silty bed is approximately 10–100 times greater than that of sandy beds under similar hydrodynamic conditions. As <span><math><mrow><msub><mi>U</mi><mrow><mi>c</mi><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math></span> and wave-induced Shields parameter increase, <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>T</mi><mo>∗</mo></msup></mrow></math></span> sh","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104842"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144714354","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-22DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104838
Huiran Liu, Pengzhi Lin
In this study, we developed a 2-D fully coupled numerical model to investigate interactions between waves and flexible vegetation. The model integrates a flexible vegetation dynamics model—capable of simulating large deflections of vegetation blades under external forcing—into the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) fluid solver NEWFLUME. A two-way coupling methodology transfers hydrodynamic fluid forces to drive blade motion, while the reactive forces from the blade are incorporated as source terms in the fluid momentum equations. The model was validated against experimental data for flexible vegetation under regular wave conditions, demonstrating its capability to predict blade deformation and wave attenuation characteristics. Numerical experiments across a wide range of Cauchy numbers (0.01–10,000) revealed distinct behavioral regimes in how vegetation flexibility affects wave attenuation. When Ca < 1, flexible vegetation behaves similarly to rigid vegetation, whereas Ca > 1 exhibits power-law decay in both wave attenuation rate and hydrodynamic forces. Highly flexible vegetation exhibits up to an 81 % reduction in wave height attenuation rate compared to rigid conditions, with blade motion patterns transitioning from cantilever beam-like oscillations to complex whip-like motions as flexibility increases. Further validation with large-scale experiments confirmed the model's ability to simulate irregular wave attenuation through a flexible vegetation domain. The model captured complex hydrodynamic features, including three-layer mean flow structures under irregular wave conditions and velocity amplification at blade tips that exceed local flow velocities in highly flexible vegetation.
在这项研究中，我们建立了一个二维全耦合数值模型来研究波浪与柔性植被之间的相互作用。该模型将一个灵活的植被动力学模型集成到reynolds - average Navier-Stokes （RANS）流体求解器NEWFLUME中，该模型能够模拟植被叶片在外力作用下的大挠度。双向耦合方法将流体动力流体力传递到驱动叶片运动，而来自叶片的反作用力作为源项纳入流体动量方程。通过常规波浪条件下柔性植被的实验数据验证了该模型对叶片变形和波浪衰减特性的预测能力。在柯西数（0.01-10,000）的大范围内进行的数值实验揭示了植被灵活性如何影响波衰减的不同行为机制。当Ca <；1、柔性植被的行为与刚性植被相似，而Ca >；1波浪衰减率和水动力均呈幂律衰减。与刚性条件相比，高度灵活的植被表现出高达81%的波高衰减率降低，随着灵活性的增加，叶片运动模式从悬臂梁状振荡转变为复杂的鞭子状运动。通过大规模实验的进一步验证证实了该模型通过灵活植被域模拟不规则波衰减的能力。该模型捕获了复杂的水动力特征，包括不规则波浪条件下的三层平均流动结构和高度柔性植被中叶片尖端超过局部流速的速度放大。
{"title":"A coupled numerical model for interactions between waves and flexible vegetation blades","authors":"Huiran Liu, Pengzhi Lin","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104838","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104838","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>In this study, we developed a 2-D fully coupled numerical model to investigate interactions between waves and flexible vegetation. The model integrates a flexible vegetation dynamics model—capable of simulating large deflections of vegetation blades under external forcing—into the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) fluid solver NEWFLUME. A two-way coupling methodology transfers hydrodynamic fluid forces to drive blade motion, while the reactive forces from the blade are incorporated as source terms in the fluid momentum equations. The model was validated against experimental data for flexible vegetation under regular wave conditions, demonstrating its capability to predict blade deformation and wave attenuation characteristics. Numerical experiments across a wide range of Cauchy numbers (0.01–10,000) revealed distinct behavioral regimes in how vegetation flexibility affects wave attenuation. When <em>Ca</em> < 1, flexible vegetation behaves similarly to rigid vegetation, whereas <em>Ca</em> > 1 exhibits power-law decay in both wave attenuation rate and hydrodynamic forces. Highly flexible vegetation exhibits up to an 81 % reduction in wave height attenuation rate compared to rigid conditions, with blade motion patterns transitioning from cantilever beam-like oscillations to complex whip-like motions as flexibility increases. Further validation with large-scale experiments confirmed the model's ability to simulate irregular wave attenuation through a flexible vegetation domain. The model captured complex hydrodynamic features, including three-layer mean flow structures under irregular wave conditions and velocity amplification at blade tips that exceed local flow velocities in highly flexible vegetation.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104838"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144714353","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
<div><div>Alongshore and temporal variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions are investigated on an intermediate beach using lidar-derived elevation transect timeseries. The lidar scanners were deployed at two alongshore locations separated by <span><math><mo>∼</mo></math></span>330 m at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center Field Research Facility in Duck, NC and collected 30 min (41 min) linescan time series at 7.1 Hz (5 Hz) each hour over an 11-day period before, during, and after Hurricane Matthew in October 2016. Runup and water surface-elevation time series at the estimated 0.5-m depth contour were used to determine the extreme runup <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>, the mean runup and inner surfzone water surface elevation, and the significant runup and inner-surf wave heights across sea-swell, infragravity, and all frequency bands. Offshore wave conditions were determined from an array of pressure gauges located in <span><math><mo>∼</mo></math></span>8-m water depth. Results show that the significant wave height in the sea-swell frequency band <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> was intermittently depth-limited in the inner surf zone, with the ratio of significant sea-swell wave height in the inner surf zone to that in about 8-m depth (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi><mo>,</mo><mi>I</mi><mi>S</mi><mi>Z</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>/<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi><mo>,</mo><mn>8</mn><mspace></mspace><mi>m</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>) ranging from 0.42 to 1.31 during low-energy conditions and from 0.19 to 0.39 during high-energy conditions. Significant temporal variability in runup parameters was observed over the 11-day period, with <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> ranging from 1.07 to 3.07 m at the southern lidar location and from 1.45 to 3.36 m at the northern lidar location. Alongshore differences in <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> ranged from 0.00 to 0.90 m, with both <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> and the significant swash height <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi><mi>i</mi><mi>g</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> typically larger at the northern lidar location. Alongshore variability in most inner surfzone and runup parameters was largest during low-energy offshore wave conditions when the inner surf zone was unsaturated, although this trend was weakest in <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>. The mean runup elevation <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>m</mi><mi>e</mi><mi>a</mi><mi>n</mi></
{"title":"Alongshore variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions on an intermediate beach","authors":"Annika O’Dea , Britt Raubenheimer , Katherine Brodie , Steve Elgar","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104822","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104822","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Alongshore and temporal variability in wave runup and inner surfzone wave conditions are investigated on an intermediate beach using lidar-derived elevation transect timeseries. The lidar scanners were deployed at two alongshore locations separated by <span><math><mo>∼</mo></math></span>330 m at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center Field Research Facility in Duck, NC and collected 30 min (41 min) linescan time series at 7.1 Hz (5 Hz) each hour over an 11-day period before, during, and after Hurricane Matthew in October 2016. Runup and water surface-elevation time series at the estimated 0.5-m depth contour were used to determine the extreme runup <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>, the mean runup and inner surfzone water surface elevation, and the significant runup and inner-surf wave heights across sea-swell, infragravity, and all frequency bands. Offshore wave conditions were determined from an array of pressure gauges located in <span><math><mo>∼</mo></math></span>8-m water depth. Results show that the significant wave height in the sea-swell frequency band <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> was intermittently depth-limited in the inner surf zone, with the ratio of significant sea-swell wave height in the inner surf zone to that in about 8-m depth (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi><mo>,</mo><mi>I</mi><mi>S</mi><mi>Z</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>/<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>S</mi><mi>S</mi><mo>,</mo><mn>8</mn><mspace></mspace><mi>m</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>) ranging from 0.42 to 1.31 during low-energy conditions and from 0.19 to 0.39 during high-energy conditions. Significant temporal variability in runup parameters was observed over the 11-day period, with <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> ranging from 1.07 to 3.07 m at the southern lidar location and from 1.45 to 3.36 m at the northern lidar location. Alongshore differences in <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> ranged from 0.00 to 0.90 m, with both <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span> and the significant swash height <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>s</mi><mi>i</mi><mi>g</mi></mrow></msub></math></span> typically larger at the northern lidar location. Alongshore variability in most inner surfzone and runup parameters was largest during low-energy offshore wave conditions when the inner surf zone was unsaturated, although this trend was weakest in <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mtext>%</mtext></mrow></msub></math></span>. The mean runup elevation <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>m</mi><mi>e</mi><mi>a</mi><mi>n</mi></","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104822"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144780894","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This study investigates the nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis of harbor oscillations using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. Numerical results confirm the presence of two nonlinear phenomena in harbor oscillations: hardening stiffness, where the resonant frequency increases with the response amplitude, and hysteresis, where the harbor's response to incoming waves is influenced by its previous oscillatory state.
For gravity waves neglecting surface tension, the restoring force is gravity. The nonlinear restoring term in the wave equations is typically expressed by the surface gradient term g(h+η)▽η. As η increases, the nonlinear restoring term intensifies, thereby providing a basis for the emergence of nonlinear stiffness.
The nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis phenomena are identified as case-specific. The Duffing oscillator model is adopted to explain these characteristics. It is determined that the nonlinear stiffness parameter and damping coefficient of oscillatory patterns significantly influence the nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis observed in harbor oscillations. A larger stiffness parameter and smaller damping coefficient make nonlinear stiffness more likely to occur. Conversely, if the stiffness parameter is small and the damping is large, nonlinear stiffness is less likely to manifest. Furthermore, a high damping coefficient indicates that the harbor quickly releases the energy from past oscillations to the open sea, preventing the system from retaining a 'memory' of its previous states and thus minimizing hysteresis. The case-specific nature of these nonlinear phenomena highlights the importance of considering specific oscillatory pattern when assessing harbor dynamic response.
{"title":"Nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis phenomena of harbor oscillations","authors":"Zhenjun Zheng , Xiaozhou Ma , Yujin Dong , Guohai Dong","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104832","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104832","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study investigates the nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis of harbor oscillations using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. Numerical results confirm the presence of two nonlinear phenomena in harbor oscillations: hardening stiffness, where the resonant frequency increases with the response amplitude, and hysteresis, where the harbor's response to incoming waves is influenced by its previous oscillatory state.</div><div>For gravity waves neglecting surface tension, the restoring force is gravity. The nonlinear restoring term in the wave equations is typically expressed by the surface gradient term <em>g</em>(<em>h</em>+<em>η</em>)▽<em>η</em>. As <em>η</em> increases, the nonlinear restoring term intensifies, thereby providing a basis for the emergence of nonlinear stiffness.</div><div>The nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis phenomena are identified as case-specific. The Duffing oscillator model is adopted to explain these characteristics. It is determined that the nonlinear stiffness parameter and damping coefficient of oscillatory patterns significantly influence the nonlinear stiffness and hysteresis observed in harbor oscillations. A larger stiffness parameter and smaller damping coefficient make nonlinear stiffness more likely to occur. Conversely, if the stiffness parameter is small and the damping is large, nonlinear stiffness is less likely to manifest. Furthermore, a high damping coefficient indicates that the harbor quickly releases the energy from past oscillations to the open sea, preventing the system from retaining a 'memory' of its previous states and thus minimizing hysteresis. The case-specific nature of these nonlinear phenomena highlights the importance of considering specific oscillatory pattern when assessing harbor dynamic response.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104832"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144694996","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-19DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104820
Adrien N. Klotz , Paula Gurruchaga , Rafael Almar , Athina M.Z. Lange , Erwin W.J. Bergsma
Nearshore bathymetry and water surface elevation are estimated using the temporal correlation method and the sky glint method, respectively, from a 14 min UAV video captured at Torrey Pines State Beach, CA, USA, under relatively energetic wave conditions ( m) generating breaking waves. The estimated bathymetry shows strong agreement with in-situ measurements, with an RMSE of 0.74 m, a bias of 0.52 m, and , comparable to other established methods. More importantly, the resulting depth estimation remains unaffected by the abrupt transitions caused by wave breaking and the presence of wave-induced foam in the surf zone. At the breaking point, the temporal correlation method consistently estimates wave celerities at this point, providing accurate depth measurements - a persistent challenge in nearshore bathymetry studies. A methodology to assess the correlation significance of the estimated bathymetry is presented. These results highlight the method’s potential for monitoring nearshore morphological changes such as induced by storms. The application of the sky glint method shows a tendency to overestimate individual wave heights (RMSE m and Bias m) compared to in-situ pressure sensor measurements. Surface elevations time series derived from the video are phase-coherent with in-situ pressure sensor measurements but overestimations are attributed to the use of a linear Modulation Transform Function (MTF). While further study is required, this proof of concept could constitutes a non-labour-intensive, remotely sensed method for generating water surface elevation datasets for sea state assessments and hydrodynamic model forcing. This study demonstrates the abundance of information that can be extracted from a 14 min UAV flight, offering a cost-effective, high-frequency sampling and high-resolution approach for coastal managers and researchers to monitor and study their nearshore environments, with potentially short - daily - revisit time.
根据在美国加利福尼亚州Torrey Pines State Beach拍摄的一段14分钟无人机视频，在相对高能波浪条件下（H0=1.96 m）产生破碎波，分别使用时间相关法和天空闪烁法估计近岸水深和水面高程。估计的水深测量结果与原位测量结果非常吻合，RMSE为0.74 m，偏差为0.52 m, R2=0.98，与其他已建立的方法相当。更重要的是，所得到的深度估计不受波浪破碎引起的突变和海浪区存在的波浪诱导泡沫的影响。在断点处，时间相关方法可以一致地估计该点的波速，从而提供准确的深度测量-这是近岸测深研究中的一个持续挑战。提出了一种评估估计水深的相关意义的方法。这些结果突出了该方法在监测近岸形态变化方面的潜力，例如由风暴引起的变化。与现场压力传感器测量相比，天空闪烁法的应用显示出高估单个波高的趋势（RMSE =0.59 m, Bias =0.31 m）。从视频中获得的地表高程时间序列与现场压力传感器测量相相干，但由于使用线性调制变换函数（MTF），会产生高估。虽然需要进一步的研究，但这种概念证明可以构成一种非劳动密集型的遥感方法，用于生成海面高程数据集，用于海况评估和水动力模式强迫。这项研究表明，从14分钟的无人机飞行中可以提取出丰富的信息，为沿海管理者和研究人员提供了一种经济高效、高频采样和高分辨率的方法，以监测和研究他们的近岸环境，可能每天的重访时间很短。
{"title":"Deriving nearshore bathymetry and waves characteristics from a single UAV video","authors":"Adrien N. Klotz , Paula Gurruchaga , Rafael Almar , Athina M.Z. Lange , Erwin W.J. Bergsma","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104820","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104820","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Nearshore bathymetry and water surface elevation are estimated using the temporal correlation method and the sky glint method, respectively, from a 14 min UAV video captured at Torrey Pines State Beach, CA, USA, under relatively energetic wave conditions (<span><math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>H</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>0</mn></mrow></msub><mo>=</mo><mn>1</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>96</mn></mrow></math></span> m) generating breaking waves. The estimated bathymetry shows strong agreement with in-situ measurements, with an RMSE of 0.74 m, a bias of 0.52 m, and <span><math><mrow><msup><mrow><mi>R</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn></mrow></msup><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>98</mn></mrow></math></span>, comparable to other established methods. More importantly, the resulting depth estimation remains unaffected by the abrupt transitions caused by wave breaking and the presence of wave-induced foam in the surf zone. At the breaking point, the temporal correlation method consistently estimates wave celerities at this point, providing accurate depth measurements - a persistent challenge in nearshore bathymetry studies. A methodology to assess the correlation significance of the estimated bathymetry is presented. These results highlight the method’s potential for monitoring nearshore morphological changes such as induced by storms. The application of the sky glint method shows a tendency to overestimate individual wave heights (RMSE <span><math><mrow><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>59</mn></mrow></math></span> m and Bias <span><math><mrow><mo>=</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>31</mn></mrow></math></span> m) compared to in-situ pressure sensor measurements. Surface elevations time series derived from the video are phase-coherent with in-situ pressure sensor measurements but overestimations are attributed to the use of a linear Modulation Transform Function (MTF). While further study is required, this proof of concept could constitutes a non-labour-intensive, remotely sensed method for generating water surface elevation datasets for sea state assessments and hydrodynamic model forcing. This study demonstrates the abundance of information that can be extracted from a 14 min UAV flight, offering a cost-effective, high-frequency sampling and high-resolution approach for coastal managers and researchers to monitor and study their nearshore environments, with potentially short - daily - revisit time.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104820"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144704267","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-19DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104821
Alessandro Romano , Giorgio Bellotti , Gabriel Barajas , Javier L. Lara
Tsunamis generated by landslides represent a significant hazard in coastal, fjord and lake environments. Their accurate modeling, using both physical and mathematical models, is crucial for activities such as risk assessment and mitigation strategies. Both approaches can provide valuable insights on the physics of landslide-tsunamis; however, due to the very complex nature of the problem, more efforts are needed to further understand the basic process of tsunami generation and propagation. In this sense, the study of the problem from an energetic perspective can provide valuable information, especially focusing on the energy transfer mechanisms between landslides and water waves. This paper presents a two-dimensional (2D) numerical study aimed at the energy mapping of tsunamis generated by subaerial granular landslides. To this end, several parametric simulations are carried out with OpenFOAM®, systematically varying some selected governing parameters (landslide falling height, water depth, and slope angle). For each simulation, several dimensionless energy quantities were computed and analyzed to investigate the energy transfer mechanisms between the landslide and the water waves. Further, the ability of some parameters to describe the efficiency of the energy transfer process for tsunami generation and propagation is investigated. At least for the cases considered in this study, it appears that the shape of the landslide vertical front at the impact and the extent of the submerged path are more important than the landslide velocity at the impact in terms of tsunamis generation efficiency. Finally, synthetic energy quantities have been examined from a broader perspective to derive overall insights into the energy transfer process between subaerial granular landslides and tsunamis, leading to the formulation of a first basic version of a nondimensional energy wavemaker curve.
{"title":"On the energy transfer of tsunamis generated by subaerial granular landslides: A 2D numerical analysis","authors":"Alessandro Romano , Giorgio Bellotti , Gabriel Barajas , Javier L. Lara","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104821","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104821","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Tsunamis generated by landslides represent a significant hazard in coastal, fjord and lake environments. Their accurate modeling, using both physical and mathematical models, is crucial for activities such as risk assessment and mitigation strategies. Both approaches can provide valuable insights on the physics of landslide-tsunamis; however, due to the very complex nature of the problem, more efforts are needed to further understand the basic process of tsunami generation and propagation. In this sense, the study of the problem from an energetic perspective can provide valuable information, especially focusing on the energy transfer mechanisms between landslides and water waves. This paper presents a two-dimensional (2D) numerical study aimed at the energy mapping of tsunamis generated by subaerial granular landslides. To this end, several parametric simulations are carried out with OpenFOAM®, systematically varying some selected governing parameters (landslide falling height, water depth, and slope angle). For each simulation, several dimensionless energy quantities were computed and analyzed to investigate the energy transfer mechanisms between the landslide and the water waves. Further, the ability of some parameters to describe the efficiency of the energy transfer process for tsunami generation and propagation is investigated. At least for the cases considered in this study, it appears that the shape of the landslide vertical front at the impact and the extent of the submerged path are more important than the landslide velocity at the impact in terms of tsunamis generation efficiency. Finally, synthetic energy quantities have been examined from a broader perspective to derive overall insights into the energy transfer process between subaerial granular landslides and tsunamis, leading to the formulation of a first basic version of a nondimensional energy wavemaker curve.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104821"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144685788","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2025-07-18DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104836
Tao Lv , Aifeng Tao , Yuzhu Pearl Li , Gang Wang , Yuanzhang Zhu , Jinhai Zheng
In the context of increasingly frequent typhoons, tropical cyclones, and severe coastal storms that pose growing risks to maritime safety and offshore infrastructure, accurate reconstruction of ocean wave fields under sparse observation conditions has become a critical yet underexplored challenge. We propose a hybrid neural network model that integrates physical prior knowledge into a deep learning framework to optimize key observation point selection and enable high-accuracy reconstruction of wave statistics. The model comprises a U-Net-based decision network (Actor) for selecting observation points and a U-Net–GAN-based reconstruction network (Critic) for wave field recovery. A hybrid loss function incorporating physical constraints and region-specific sensitivity heatmaps guides the model toward high-impact observation areas, while spatial clustering strategies ensure broad spatial coverage. The closed-loop optimization mechanism leverages reconstruction error feedback to iteratively refine both observation strategies and reconstruction performance. Experiments using hourly multi-variable ERA5 reanalysis data in the South China Sea demonstrate that, under sparse observation settings, our approach significantly outperforms conventional deployment strategies in reconstruction accuracy, validating its effectiveness for resource-constrained marine monitoring applications.
在日益频繁的台风、热带气旋和严重的沿海风暴对海上安全和海上基础设施构成越来越大的风险的背景下，在稀疏观测条件下准确重建海浪场已成为一个关键但尚未得到充分探索的挑战。我们提出了一种混合神经网络模型，该模型将物理先验知识集成到深度学习框架中，以优化关键观测点的选择并实现波浪统计的高精度重建。该模型包括基于u - net的观测点选择决策网络（Actor）和基于u - net - gan的波场恢复重建网络（Critic）。结合物理约束和区域特定敏感性热图的混合损失函数将模型引导到高影响观测区域，而空间聚类策略确保了广泛的空间覆盖。闭环优化机制利用重建误差反馈迭代优化观测策略和重建性能。利用南海每小时多变量ERA5再分析数据进行的实验表明，在稀疏观测设置下，我们的方法在重建精度上显著优于传统部署策略，验证了其在资源有限的海洋监测应用中的有效性。
{"title":"A new framework for selecting observation points and reconstructing wave fields under sparse observations","authors":"Tao Lv , Aifeng Tao , Yuzhu Pearl Li , Gang Wang , Yuanzhang Zhu , Jinhai Zheng","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104836","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104836","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>In the context of increasingly frequent typhoons, tropical cyclones, and severe coastal storms that pose growing risks to maritime safety and offshore infrastructure, accurate reconstruction of ocean wave fields under sparse observation conditions has become a critical yet underexplored challenge. We propose a hybrid neural network model that integrates physical prior knowledge into a deep learning framework to optimize key observation point selection and enable high-accuracy reconstruction of wave statistics. The model comprises a U-Net-based decision network (Actor) for selecting observation points and a U-Net–GAN-based reconstruction network (Critic) for wave field recovery. A hybrid loss function incorporating physical constraints and region-specific sensitivity heatmaps guides the model toward high-impact observation areas, while spatial clustering strategies ensure broad spatial coverage. The closed-loop optimization mechanism leverages reconstruction error feedback to iteratively refine both observation strategies and reconstruction performance. Experiments using hourly multi-variable ERA5 reanalysis data in the South China Sea demonstrate that, under sparse observation settings, our approach significantly outperforms conventional deployment strategies in reconstruction accuracy, validating its effectiveness for resource-constrained marine monitoring applications.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"202 ","pages":"Article 104836"},"PeriodicalIF":4.2,"publicationDate":"2025-07-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144671053","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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