Coastal Engineering最新文献_第6页

Amplification of nonlinear response of floating photovoltaics by coastal topography: Experimental and numerical study 沿海地形对浮动光伏非线性响应的放大：实验和数值研究

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-18 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104876

Qiujue Jiang , Deqing Zhang , Junfeng Du , Qingping Zou , Anteng Chang , Huajun Li

Nearshore coastal regions have become popular for floating photovoltaics (FPV) installations. During propagation over seabed topography towards nearshore FPV systems, waves undergo intricate transformations by shoaling, reflection and refraction, potentially influencing hydrodynamic responses of these emerging marine renewable energy structures in ways that are not well understood. Therefore, wave flume experiments and multiscale fully coupled time-domain fluid-structure interaction (FSI) simulations are performed to examine the topography effect on the nonlinear responses of nearshore FPV systems at a field site in the East China Sea. Experimental results reveal that near-resonant wave interactions in coastal regions drive significant energy transfer among different wave frequencies, amplifying the nonlinear dynamic responses of FPV systems by channeling energy toward their natural modes. As a result, second-order heave and pitch responses are amplified by up to 117.87 % and 136.38 % compared to the case without topography, which in turn lead to an increase in mooring tension. Moreover, the topography-induced amplification of nonlinear wave harmonics enhances the surge mean drift of FPV. This enhancement exhibits a negative correlation with the relative FPV length with respect to the wavelength. Comparisons between experiments and fully coupled simulations for irregular waves indicate that neglecting topography causes the FPV dynamic response model to produce inaccurate estimations of heave/pitch motions, while FSI simulations forced by high-fidelity local wave fields predicted by the fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model are capable of capturing the observed topographic effect. These findings provide the theoretical basis for design consideration of the safe, cost-effective deployment of efficient FPV systems in coastal waters.

近岸沿海地区已成为浮动光伏（FPV）安装的热门地区。在海底地形向近岸FPV系统传播的过程中，波浪通过浅滩、反射和折射经历了复杂的转变，可能以尚不清楚的方式影响这些新兴海洋可再生能源结构的水动力响应。为此，本文采用波浪水槽实验和多尺度全耦合时域流固耦合（FSI）模拟来研究地形对东海近岸FPV系统非线性响应的影响。实验结果表明，沿海地区的近共振波相互作用驱动不同波频之间的能量传递，通过将能量引导到其自然模态，放大了FPV系统的非线性动态响应。结果，与没有地形的情况相比，二阶升沉和俯仰响应放大了117.87%和136.38%，这反过来导致系泊张力增加。此外，地形引起的非线性谐波放大增强了FPV的浪涌平均漂移。这种增强与相对FPV长度相对于波长呈负相关。实验与不规则波的完全耦合模拟对比表明，忽略地形会导致FPV动力响应模型产生不准确的升沉/俯仰运动估计，而由完全非线性Boussinesq波模型预测的高保真局部波场强迫的FSI模拟能够捕捉到观测到的地形效应。这些发现为在沿海水域安全、经济地部署高效FPV系统的设计考虑提供了理论基础。

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引用次数: 0

Discussion/comments of “Drag coefficient prediction model for simulating breaking waves propagating on partly submerged vegetated sloping beaches using a RANS model” by Yanxu Wang, Quanlin Qiu, Zegao Yin, Xiutao Jiang and Xuan Zang 王艳旭、邱全林、尹泽高、蒋秀涛、臧璇对“基于RANS模型模拟部分淹没植被斜坡滩破碎波传播的阻力系数预测模型”的讨论/评论

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-18 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104878

Dag Myrhaug, Bernt J. Leira

The purpose of these comments and discussion has been to point out how wave statistics can be incorporated in applications of the drag coefficient model for regular breaking waves propagating on partly submerged vegetated sloping beaches proposed by Wang et al. (2025). This is demonstrated by using a distribution of the surf parameter provided by Myrhaug and Fouques (2007). Examples of results are given by applying a Phillips wave amplitude spectrum for wind sea.

这些评论和讨论的目的是指出如何将波浪统计纳入Wang等人（2025）提出的在部分淹没植被斜坡海滩上传播的规则破碎波的阻力系数模型的应用中。这可以通过Myrhaug和Fouques（2007）提供的surf参数分布来证明。文中给出了应用菲利普斯波幅谱分析风海的实例结果。

引用次数: 0

Green-gray connections: Coupled equations of wave attenuation and structural response for engineering design of hybrid infrastructure 绿灰连接：混合基础设施工程设计中波浪衰减与结构响应的耦合方程

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-15 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104877

Margaret Libby , Tori Tomiczek , Daniel T. Cox , Pedro Lomónaco

A quantitative method is proposed for predicting the engineering performance of a hybrid green-gray system comprised of a mangrove forest seaward of a conventional engineered structure to mitigate wave action. The method coupled existing empirical equations to (1) predict the wave height attenuation of random waves transmitted through the mangrove forest and (2) use the resulting significant wave height as input to existing equations to estimate wave overtopping on a vertical wall or rubble-mound revetment or wave force on a vertical wall. The predicted wave height attenuation was parameterized by a drag coefficient obtained from an empirical relation developed from previous laboratory results. The method was validated with data from two large-scale wave flume studies of wave overtopping and wave force, which used similar model mangroves at 1:2 and 1:1 scale, respectively. The method conservatively predicted the overtopping of a vertical wall or rubble-mound revetment within a factor of 1.7 for discharge rates greater than 1 × 10⁻³ m³/s/m and a factor of 3.5 for discharge rates greater than 1 × 10⁻⁴ m³/s/m. The predictions of wave forces were also conservative and were within a factor of 1.3 compared to the measurements. The overprediction of the wave force increased slightly with mangrove forest density, indicating a possible interaction between the waves and the green and gray features that reduced the wave forces more than expected from the wave attenuation alone. The apparent interaction was small, and the results of the proposed method were reasonable compared to the observations. The present results show promise for a design approach which assumes independent performance of the components to motivate a calculation coupling empirical equations to estimate the performance of hybrid green-gray systems for coastal defenses. Future study is necessary to parameterize wave attenuation by natural mangrove forests and to account for nonlinear processes such as wave breaking and wave-induced setup.

提出了一种定量的方法来预测一个由红树林组成的混合绿灰系统的工程性能，以减轻波浪作用的传统工程结构。该方法将现有经验方程耦合到(1)预测通过红树林传播的随机波的波高衰减；(2)将得到的显著波高作为现有方程的输入，以估计垂直墙或碎石丘护岸上的波浪过顶或垂直墙上的波浪力。预测的波高衰减由阻力系数参数化，阻力系数是从以前的实验室结果中得到的经验关系。该方法通过两个大型波浪水槽研究的数据进行了验证，这两个研究分别使用了1:2和1:1比例的类似模型红树林。对于流量大于1 × 10−3 m3/s/m的垂直墙或碎石丘护岸，该方法的保守预测因子为1.7；对于流量大于1 × 10−4 m3/s/m的护岸，该方法的保守预测因子为3.5。波浪力的预测也是保守的，与测量结果相比，误差在1.3倍以内。随着红树林密度的增加，对波浪力的过度预测略有增加，这表明波浪与绿色和灰色特征之间可能存在相互作用，这种相互作用比仅从波浪衰减中预期的更能降低波浪力。表观相互作用较小，所得结果与观测结果比较合理。目前的结果表明，一种假设组件独立性能的设计方法有望激发计算耦合经验方程来估计海防混合绿灰系统的性能。未来的研究需要对天然红树林的波浪衰减进行参数化，并考虑波浪破碎和波浪诱导建立等非线性过程。

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引用次数: 0

Surrogate modelling of dike wave overtopping hydrodynamics using an adapted deep learning Vision Transformer 采用自适应深度学习视觉转换器的堤波过顶流体动力学代理建模

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104874

Wouter P. Schrama , Vera M. van Bergeijk , Patricia Mares-Nasarre , Joost P. den Bieman , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Juan P. Aguilar-López

Sea level rise can compromise the safety of coastal flood defences, as wave overtopping events are becoming more frequent and severe. This increasing threat emphasizes the need for accurate assessment of wave overtopping hydrodynamics over dikes, which is essential for evaluating flood safety. The currently available methods do not combine computational efficiency, detailed results and general applicability, which limits their use in modelling wave overtopping and the resulting dike erosion. To address these limitations, this study introduces the Wave Overtopping Surrogate Model (WOSM), a novel method for rapidly generating high-quality two-dimensional simulations of wave overtopping over the dike crest and landward slope. The foundation of the WOSM is the Vision Transformer Image to Image (ViTI2I), a new deep learning model that combines an adapted Vision Transformer with a convolutional decoder for next-frame prediction. Trained on CFD wave overtopping simulations, the WOSM accurately reproduces the overtopping hydrodynamics such as flow velocities, water depths, overtopping duration and vertical velocity profiles, including both spatial and temporal variations. The scope of the training data limits the applicability of the WOSM and its ability to consistently capture complex phenomena such as flow separation and reattachment, both of which could be improved by enriching the dataset. Its low computational demand makes it suitable for exploring additional applications, such as probabilistic design or simulating wave overtopping with evolving dike profiles for erosion assessment. Additionally, this study serves as a proof of concept that the WOSM framework could benefit other fields encountering comparable modelling constraints.

海平面上升可能危及沿海防洪堤的安全，因为海浪超过水面的事件变得越来越频繁和严重。这种日益增加的威胁强调了对堤防上浪漫过水动力进行准确评估的必要性，这对于评估洪水安全至关重要。目前可用的方法没有将计算效率、详细结果和一般适用性结合起来，这限制了它们在模拟波浪漫顶和由此产生的堤防侵蚀方面的应用。为了解决这些限制，本研究引入了波浪漫溢代理模型（WOSM），这是一种快速生成高质量波浪漫溢堤顶和向陆坡二维模拟的新方法。WOSM的基础是视觉转换图像到图像（ViTI2I），这是一种新的深度学习模型，将自适应视觉转换器与卷积解码器相结合，用于下一帧预测。经过CFD波浪过顶模拟的训练，WOSM可以精确地再现过顶流体动力学，如流速、水深、过顶持续时间和垂直速度分布，包括空间和时间变化。训练数据的范围限制了WOSM的适用性及其持续捕获复杂现象（如流动分离和再附着）的能力，这两者都可以通过丰富数据集来改进。它的低计算需求使其适合于探索其他应用，例如概率设计或模拟波浪漫过与不断变化的堤防剖面进行侵蚀评估。此外，本研究证明了WOSM框架可以使遇到类似建模约束的其他领域受益。

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引用次数: 0

Wave-driven hydrodynamics around a saltmarsh cliff under storm conditions: the role of cliff height and vegetation 风暴条件下盐沼悬崖周围波浪驱动的流体力学：悬崖高度和植被的作用

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-08 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104875

J.R.M. Muller , B.W. Borsje , J.J. van der Werf , D. Dermentzoglou , B. Hofland , A. Antonini , S.J.M.H. Hulscher

Saltmarshes are a promising nature-based alternative for conventional flood protection. However, saltmarshes can erode under storm conditions, whereby the seaward edge of the saltmarsh often forms a vertical cliff. Despite its importance, the effect of storm conditions on erosion at the saltmarsh cliff remains understudied, especially when waves traverse over a cliff. This research investigates the complex flow patterns around a saltmarsh cliff non-intrusively using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) conducted through a series of scaled monochromatic wave flume experiments. We adopted realistic foreshore configurations (e.g. cliff heights) and hydraulic loading conditions from the Dutch Wadden Sea. Results show two local near-bed velocity maxima on top of the saltmarsh, created during different wave phases by water depth contraction, wave transmission and interaction between flow and vortices that are shed from the cliff. Under the wave crest, high onshore-directed near-bed velocities were measured at approximately 2.5–4 times the cliff height onshore from the cliff. Under the wave trough, high offshore-directed velocities were found at the marsh edge. Both onshore- and offshore-directed velocities increase with increasing cliff height, larger wave height or lower water depth. Vegetation on top of the marsh reduces both the incoming and outgoing velocities in front of the cliff. Increasing the cliff height resulted in a greater reduction in velocities by the vegetation. These results demonstrate how local near-bed velocity maxima and location are influenced by the presence of a cliff and the interaction with vegetation on top of the saltmarsh. This research highlights the vulnerability of the cliff even during inundation of the cliff and will help to implement saltmarshes as nature-based solutions for flood defence.

盐沼是一种很有前途的基于自然的传统防洪替代方案。然而，盐沼在风暴条件下会被侵蚀，因此盐沼的向海边缘经常形成垂直的悬崖。尽管它很重要，但风暴条件对盐沼悬崖侵蚀的影响仍未得到充分研究，特别是当波浪穿过悬崖时。采用粒子图像测速技术（PIV）对盐沼悬崖周围的复杂流场进行了非侵入式研究，并进行了一系列单色波槽实验。我们采用了现实的前海岸配置（例如悬崖高度）和荷兰瓦登海的水力加载条件。结果表明，在不同的波相中，海水深度收缩、波浪传播以及悬崖上的水流与涡的相互作用，在盐沼顶部产生了两个局部近床速度最大值。在波峰下，测量到的高陆上导向近床速度约为悬崖岸上高度的2.5-4倍。在波槽下，沼泽边缘有较高的向海速度。陆上和海上方向的速度都随着悬崖高度、波浪高度或水深的增加而增加。沼泽顶部的植被降低了悬崖前进入和离开的速度。增加悬崖高度导致植被对速度的更大降低。这些结果表明，悬崖的存在以及与盐沼顶部植被的相互作用如何影响局部近床速度最大值和位置。这项研究强调了悬崖的脆弱性，即使在悬崖被淹没的情况下，也将有助于实施盐沼作为基于自然的防洪解决方案。

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引用次数: 0

Laboratory investigation of turbulence scales of swash flows generated by consecutive solitary waves 连续孤立波冲刷流湍流尺度的实验室研究

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-06 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104870

In Mei Sou , Jinghua Wang , Yun-Ta Wu , Philip L.-F. Liu

Using direct spatial spectrum and continuous wavelet transform analyses, turbulence scales in the swash flows, generated by six consecutive solitary waves in the laboratory, are examined. This study focuses on the interactions between uprush flows and downwash flows under two different incident wave conditions. Because the spatial resolution in the experimental data is limited, the direct spatial spectral method can only provide meaningful information in the region with larger turbulence length scales, which is of the order of the integral length scale in the energy cascade of the turbulent kinetic energy spectrum. In the present experiments, the integral length scale is found to be as large as the local water depth (1 to 3 cm). Since the temporal resolution of the experimental data is high, the continuous wavelet transform is employed to investigate the smaller turbulence length scale region within the inertial subrange by invoking the Taylor-frozen hypothesis. The results reveal that the slope of the time-dependent energy cascade changes rapidly, showing that the exchange of turbulent kinetic energy across the length scales occurs through the inverse cascade, the downward cascade, and the typical

- 5 / 3

slope cascade for turbulent flows. The

- 3

slope of the energy cascade occurs due to the bed-generated eddies when the nonstationary hydraulic jump develops. The energy cascade with

- 1

slope occurs at the flow reversal from the downwash to the uprush at which the broken bore develops. The typical slope

- 5 / 3

occurs during the uprush flow. Taking the time average of the time-dependent spectrum obtained by the continuous wavelet transform method, an overall slope of

- 1

is found across multiple energy bumps throughout the inertial subrange of the energy cascade for the two interacting wave conditions.

利用直接空间谱和连续小波变换分析，研究了在实验室中由6个连续孤立波产生的斜冲流的湍流尺度。本文研究了两种不同入射波条件下的上冲流和下冲流的相互作用。由于实验数据的空间分辨率有限，直接空间谱法只能在湍流动能谱能量级联的积分长度尺度较大的区域提供有意义的信息。在本实验中，发现积分长度尺度与当地水深（1 ~ 3cm）相当。由于实验数据的时间分辨率较高，采用连续小波变换，利用泰勒冻结假设对惯性子范围内较小的湍流长度尺度区域进行研究。结果表明，随时间变化的能量级联的斜率变化很快，表明湍流动能在长度尺度上的交换主要通过逆级联、向下级联和湍流典型的- 5/3斜率级联进行。当非平稳水跃发展时，由于床层产生的涡流，能量级联出现−3斜率。斜率为- 1的能量级联出现在破碎孔发育的下冲逆流处。典型的坡度为−5/3，出现在上冲过程中。对连续小波变换方法获得的时间相关谱进行时间平均，发现在两种相互作用的波条件下，能量级联惯性子范围内的多个能量颠簸之间的总斜率为−1。

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引用次数: 0

Standalone color-based bathymetry over 10 years at Duck (NC, USA) from optical satellite imagery and wave breaking analysis 在Duck （NC， USA）使用光学卫星图像和波浪破碎分析进行了10多年的独立彩色测深

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-06 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104855

Salomé Frugier , Rafael Almar , Erwin W.J. Bergsma , Spicer A. Bak

Coastal hazard forecasting and morphological modeling rely on having accurate and up-to-date nearshore bathymetry. Traditional methods (shipborne surveys, LiDAR...) provide high precision but they are expensive, complex to deploy, and only cover limited areas, leaving many coastal regions either unmapped or under surveyed. In this context, Satellite-Derived Bathymetry (SDB) provides a more accessible and scalable alternative, enabling frequent and global observations of the nearshore zone. This study applies the color-based log-band ratio method to extract nearshore bathymetry at Duck, North Carolina (USA), a highly dynamic environment with a wide range of turbidity values and wave breaking extents. The log-band ratio method is an empirical approach for estimating shallow-water depths from multispectral satellite imagery which relies on the natural attenuation of light in water column, where the ratio of two spectral bands (typically blue and green) is logarithmically related to water depth. Unlike traditional SDB approaches that require in situ bathymetry calibration, this method relies only on nearshore in situ wave height data, using satellite-detected breaking positions and breaker height-to-depth ratio as depth calibration points. Additionally, an automated approach is used to select images where the green/blue band penetrates sufficiently into the water to retrieve bathymetry (cloud, breaking, sky specular reflection, and turbidity effects) avoiding the subjectivity of traditional manual selection. The method is validated through alongshore median- and profile-based assessments, yielding a median RMSE of

\sim

60 cm. Sensitivity tests on key parameters, including the breaker height-to-depth ratio and the calibration time window, demonstrate that a constant breaker height-to-depth ratio (

γ

= 0.36) provides reliable results and that a significant number of calibration points is necessary for accurate bathymetry retrieval (

Δ T

>

2 years

\approx

150 images with breaking occurring). This approach retrieves instant bathymetries and allows for the extraction of bathymetry evolution over time, with 90 bathymetry maps available over the 10-year period due to the very high resolution (5-m) and 2-day revisit VEN

μ

S satellite and the 10-m/5-day Sentinel-2 mission. The method is transferable to other optical satellites such as Landsat, although it should be applied with caution, enabling long-term nearshore bathymetry monitoring from the 1980s to the present.

海岸灾害预报和形态建模依赖于精确和最新的近岸水深测量。传统的测量方法（船载测量、激光雷达等）精度很高，但它们价格昂贵、部署复杂，而且只能覆盖有限的区域，导致许多沿海地区要么没有测绘，要么勘测不足。在这种情况下，卫星衍生水深测量（SDB）提供了一种更容易获得和可扩展的替代方案，可以对近岸区域进行频繁的全球观测。本研究应用基于颜色的对数频带比方法提取美国北卡罗莱纳州达克近岸水深，这是一个高度动态的环境，具有广泛的浊度值和波浪破碎程度。对数波段比法是一种从多光谱卫星图像中估计浅水深度的经验方法，它依赖于光在水柱中的自然衰减，其中两个光谱波段（通常是蓝色和绿色）的比值与水深呈对数相关。与传统的SDB方法需要现场水深校准不同，该方法仅依赖近岸现场波高数据，使用卫星探测到的破碎位置和破碎高度与深度比作为深度校准点。此外，采用自动化方法选择绿色/蓝色波段充分渗透到水中的图像，以检索水深（云、破碎、天空镜面反射和浊度效应），避免了传统人工选择的主观性。该方法通过岸上基于中值和剖面的评估进行了验证，得出的中值RMSE为~ 60 cm。对关键参数（包括破碎机高度与深度比和校准时间窗）的灵敏度测试表明，恒定的破碎机高度与深度比（γ = 0.36）提供可靠的结果，并且需要大量的校准点才能准确地检索水深（ΔT >； 2年≈150张发生破碎机的图像）。该方法检索即时测深数据，并允许提取随时间变化的测深数据，由于极高分辨率（5米）和2天重访的VENμS卫星和10米/5天的Sentinel-2任务，在10年期间可以获得90张测深图。这种方法可以转移到其他光学卫星上，例如陆地卫星，但应用时应谨慎，以便从1980年代到现在进行长期近岸测深监测。

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引用次数: 0

Stability of single - layer cube armoured roundheads under wind and swell waves 单层立方体铠装圆头在风浪作用下的稳定性

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-02 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104873

Yalcin Yuksel , Esin Cevik , Cihan Sahin , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Burak Rehber , Baran Polat , Chingiz Mustafazade , Umutcan Inal , Mehmet Utku Ogur

This study investigates the stability of single-layer cube-armored breakwater roundheads under varying wave conditions, focusing on the influence of wave steepness, packing density, and cube material density. Experiments were conducted to assess the impact of different packing arrangements (62 % and 69 %) and unit weights (24 kN/m³ and 31.5 kN/m³) on the movement and displacement behavior of armor units. Wind and swell wave conditions were analyzed to evaluate sector-specific behavior across the roundhead. The results reveal that wave steepness plays a critical role in damage initiation, with wind waves causing earlier and more significant movement in the frontal sectors, while swell waves lead to delayed but widespread displacements toward the rear sectors due to enhanced diffraction effects. The roundhead exhibited non-uniform damage distribution, particularly in the second (45°–90°) and third (90°–135°) sectors, which emphasizes the importance of a sector-specific analysis in the design process. Furthermore, this study showed that packing density significantly influences the stability, with higher packing densities providing improved stability, irrespective of the block material density. High density (HD) cubes exhibited less movement compared to normal density cubes, highlighting the importance of geometric arrangement and lateral resistance in ensuring stability. Furthermore, a new formula has been derived based on the experimental data for the one - layer placement of normal density (ND) cubes. Overall, the findings underscore the need for a detailed sector-specific analyses in the design and evaluation of breakwater roundheads to enhance stability and resilience under varying wave conditions.

本文研究了不同波浪条件下单层立方铠装防波堤圆头的稳定性，重点研究了波浪陡度、填料密度和立方材料密度对圆头稳定性的影响。实验评估了不同装填方式（62%和69%）和单位重量（24 kN/m3和31.5 kN/m3）对装甲单位运动和位移行为的影响。分析了风和涌浪条件，以评估整个圆头的扇形特定行为。结果表明，波浪陡度对损伤起关键作用，风波在前缘扇区引起更早、更显著的运动，而膨胀波由于增强的衍射效应导致向后扇区延迟但广泛的位移。圆头显示出不均匀的损伤分布，特别是在第二扇区（45°-90°）和第三扇区（90°-135°），这强调了在设计过程中扇区特定分析的重要性。此外，该研究表明，填料密度显著影响稳定性，无论块体材料密度如何，填料密度越高，稳定性越好。与正常密度立方体相比，高密度立方体表现出较少的运动，突出了几何排列和横向阻力在确保稳定性方面的重要性。在此基础上，根据实验数据导出了一种新的正态密度立方体单层放置公式。总的来说，研究结果强调了在设计和评估防波堤圆头时需要进行详细的行业分析，以提高在不同波浪条件下的稳定性和弹性。

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引用次数: 0

Quantifying overwash in a laboratory experimental analysis using bichromatic waves 用双色波定量实验室实验分析中的过洗

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-02 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104869

Jana Echave Lezcano, Colin Whittaker, Giovanni Coco

Overwash influences dune resilience and sediment transport, yet the physical parameters governing this process remain poorly understood due to complex hydrodynamic and morphodynamic interactions. This study investigates how broad and narrow-band wave groups and water level variations govern the feedback between overwash dynamics and dune morphological response. Three overwash scenarios were identified: (1) early-stage overwash, where the system begins in overwash and transitions to collision; (2) intermittent overwash; and (3) persistent overwash, characterised by stronger onshore sediment transport.

Results indicate that small initial water level variations (

<

4% of the water depth) can significantly influence overwash intensity and frequency, with the highest tested water level (0.775 m) producing the most persistent overwash conditions. Longer wave groups enhance overwash initiation by maintaining elevated infragravity swash across successive waves, increasing the likelihood of crest exceedance. In contrast, shorter groups generate more frequent individual runup events that interact with the dune, increasing overwash occurrences. However, under high water levels, wave group effects become secondary.

The Overwash Potential (OP) metric is assessed as an indicator of overwash occurrence. Findings show that threshold values between collision and overwash are scale-dependent, requiring calibration to reflect dune freeboard effects accurately. Additionally, OP estimation is highly sensitive to the beach slope definition; using a non-representative slope can underestimate OP exceedance, overwash frequency, and severity.

Future laboratory studies should treat water level as a key design parameter and incorporate long-term morphological feedback and field-scale validation. These steps will improve predictive model accuracy and inform the development of effective coastal resilience strategies under extreme conditions.

冲过影响沙丘恢复力和沉积物输运，但由于复杂的水动力和形态动力相互作用，控制这一过程的物理参数仍然知之甚少。本研究探讨了宽、窄带波群和水位变化如何控制冲积动力和沙丘形态响应之间的反馈。确定了三种过冲情景：(1)早期过冲，系统从过冲开始过渡到碰撞；(2)间歇过洗；(3)持续的冲过，以更强的陆上沉积物输送为特征。结果表明，较小的初始水位变化（<；4%的水深）可以显著影响过冲强度和频率，最高测试水位（0.775 m）产生的过冲条件最持久。较长的波群通过在连续的波之间保持较高的次重力冲刷，增加了波峰超越的可能性，从而增强了过冲的开始。相比之下，较短的群体会产生更频繁的个体上升事件，与沙丘相互作用，增加溢水的发生。然而，在高水位下，波群效应是次要的。过冲电位（OP）指标被评估为过冲发生的一个指标。研究结果表明，碰撞和冲过之间的阈值与尺度有关，需要校准才能准确反映沙丘干舷效应。此外，OP估计对海滩坡度定义高度敏感；使用非代表性斜率可能会低估OP超标、过洗频率和严重程度。未来的实验室研究应将水位作为关键的设计参数，并结合长期的形态反馈和现场规模验证。这些步骤将提高预测模型的准确性，并为在极端条件下制定有效的沿海恢复策略提供信息。

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引用次数: 0

Coastal erosion hazards in northwest Florida due to extreme wind waves generated by tropical cyclones 由于热带气旋产生的极端风浪，佛罗里达州西北部海岸受到侵蚀

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2025-09-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104872

ASM Alauddin Al Azad , Reza Marsooli , Mohammad Jamous , Christian M. Appendini , Pablo Ruiz Salcines , Rodrigo Duran

Tropical cyclones (TCs) pose significant threats to sandy coastal environments, largely due to the extreme wind-generated waves. Sandy beach-dune systems, acting as natural barriers, can significantly exacerbate coastal flood risks when eroded or breached by extreme waves. Northwest Florida's Gulf coast beaches and dunes are highly exposed to TC-generated waves, which can cause significant erosion of these natural and nature-based defenses. Using a physics-based morphodynamic model, this study quantifies TC-induced coastal erosion hazards due to extreme waves at seven sites along the northwest coast of Florida. The model is forced by wave parameters derived from synthetic TCs, which are generated based on ERA5, NCEP, and MERRA2 reanalysis datasets. The results indicate that the choice of reanalysis dataset significantly influences the estimated erosion volumes, with ERA5-based synthetic TCs consistently producing lower erosion volumes than those based on NCEP and MERRA2. However, the erosion return periods derived from the ERA5 TC dataset align well with those from the other datasets, due to the higher annual frequency of TCs in the ERA5 dataset compared to the other two datasets. We also found significant spatial variability in erosion hazards, with profiles just a few kilometers apart exhibiting different erosion responses under identical storm forcing. Our analysis highlights the important role of local morphological characteristics, such as beach slope and nearshore sandbar size, in modulating the impact of extreme waves on coastal erosion. The study findings underscore the importance of ensemble high-resolution, site-specific hazard assessments for effectively managing and protecting beach-dune systems against extreme wave events.

热带气旋（tc）对沙质海岸环境构成重大威胁，主要是由于极端的风力产生的海浪。沙滩-沙丘系统作为天然屏障，当被极端海浪侵蚀或破坏时，会大大加剧沿海洪水的风险。佛罗里达州西北部的海湾海岸海滩和沙丘高度暴露于tc产生的波浪中，这可能会对这些自然和基于自然的防御造成严重侵蚀。本研究使用基于物理的形态动力学模型，量化了佛罗里达西北海岸七个地点的极端海浪造成的tc引起的海岸侵蚀危害。该模型采用基于ERA5、NCEP和MERRA2再分析数据集生成的合成tc的波浪参数。结果表明，再分析数据的选择显著影响了估算的侵蚀量，基于era5的合成tc产生的侵蚀量始终低于基于NCEP和MERRA2的合成tc。然而，由于ERA5数据集中的侵蚀回归周期高于其他两个数据集，因此ERA5数据集中的侵蚀回归周期与其他两个数据集的侵蚀回归周期很好地吻合。我们还发现了侵蚀危害的显著空间变异性，在相同的风暴强迫下，仅相隔几公里的剖面就表现出不同的侵蚀响应。我们的分析强调了当地形态特征，如海滩坡度和近岸沙洲大小，在调节极端海浪对海岸侵蚀的影响方面的重要作用。研究结果强调了整体高分辨率，特定地点的危害评估对于有效管理和保护海滩-沙丘系统免受极端海浪事件的影响的重要性。

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