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Marking humans for consumption, whilst erasing others: Affective becomings and the workings of (dis)comfort 标记人类消费,同时抹杀他人:情感的形成和(dis)舒适的运作
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-02-24 DOI: 10.1177/14695405231160595
Maíra Magalhães Lopes
In the becoming of neoliberal cities, consumption can play an important role in the process of marking who is human, that is, fit for consumption, and who is not. This paper explores such processes as affective becomings and focuses on the workings of comfort and discomfort to highlight how some bodies are delegitimized in order for others to become legitimatized. Using an ethnographic approach with affective methodologies, I trace the process of erasing activism collectives that were resisting gentrification in São Paulo and advocating the ‘right to the city’. The contribution of this paper is threefold. Firstly, it highlights how the becoming of the neoliberal city follows a neoliberal normativity in tandem with a colonial one. By exploring how spaces, bodies, and norms are always related to one another in this process, I highlight how ‘the consumer’ has become the body who counts (i.e. the human). Secondly, this paper shows how activism work refracts the dynamics of the neoliberal-colonial normativity, as it (re)acts to its mechanisms for sorting out bodies. Thirdly, this paper highlights the political dimensions of (dis)comfort that mark the splitting of legitimate and illegitimatebodies in a social reproduction for consumption. Consequently, it explores how discomfort has been used as a political-affective tool of delegitimization, subjugation, and oppression.
在新自由主义城市的形成过程中,消费可以在标记谁是人的过程中发挥重要作用,即谁适合消费,谁不适合消费。本文探讨了情感形成等过程,并重点研究了舒适和不适的作用,以强调一些身体是如何被剥夺合法性的,从而使其他身体合法化。我使用民族志方法和情感方法,追踪了消除圣保罗抵制士绅化和倡导“城市权利”的激进主义集体的过程。本文的贡献有三个方面。首先,它强调了新自由主义城市的形成是如何遵循新自由主义规范和殖民规范的。通过探索空间、身体和规范在这个过程中是如何相互关联的,我强调了“消费者”是如何成为重要的身体(即人)的。其次,本文展示了激进主义工作如何折射新自由主义殖民规范的动态,因为它(重新)作用于其整理身体的机制。第三,本文强调了(dis)舒适的政治层面,这标志着合法和非法主体在消费的社会再生产中的分裂。因此,它探讨了不适是如何被用作剥夺合法性、征服和压迫的政治情感工具的。
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引用次数: 0
Book Review: Digital playgrounds: The hidden politics of children’s online play spaces, virtual worlds, and connected games 书评:数字游乐场:儿童在线游戏空间、虚拟世界和连接游戏的隐藏政治
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-02-13 DOI: 10.1177/14695405231157498
Zizheng Yu
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引用次数: 3
‘He wouldn’t be seen using it…’ Men’s use of male grooming products as a form of invisible consumption “他不会被看到使用它……”男性使用男性美容产品是一种无形的消费
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-02-01 DOI: 10.1177/14695405211066314
A. Byrne, Katie Milestone
Skincare products are well-established amongst female consumers. The market for male skincare products is far more recent and little research has been undertaken on this emerging sector. The practice of men using what was traditionally a product almost solely aimed at women poses some interesting questions about changing gendered identities and practices. Themes emerged from a series of interviews with respondents and key informants from industry about men’s use of skincare products. Based on our findings, we explore the importance of age as a factor in terms of men’s willingness to engage with this form of consumption. Our research showed that men are not comfortable talking with others about their grooming practices. We argue that men’s skincare consumption is an invisible form of consumption. As our findings show, men do not tend to speak openly about whether or not they use moisturiser and other facial skin care products. We concur with Hakim’s (2016) analysis about the pressure for men to continually improve their bodies in order to try to obtain market advantage in a cut-throat neoliberal context. However, with the case of skin care products, men may introspectively gaze in the mirror in contemplation of their improved appearance gained from using facial skincare products but they want this consumption to remain invisible to others. This invisible consumption could be viewed as an indication of wider uncertainty about masculinity in late modernity and the continuing trend for men to feel that there are certain aspects of their life that they feel they should keep to themselves.
护肤品在女性消费者中很受欢迎。男性护肤品市场是最近才出现的,对这一新兴领域的研究很少。男性使用传统上几乎完全针对女性的产品的做法,提出了一些关于性别身份和做法变化的有趣问题。主题从一系列的采访受访者和主要消息来源的行业关于男性使用护肤产品。根据我们的研究结果,我们探讨了年龄作为男性愿意参与这种消费形式的一个因素的重要性。我们的研究表明,男性不愿意与他人谈论他们的仪容整洁。我们认为男性护肤品消费是一种无形的消费形式。正如我们的研究结果所显示的,男性不倾向于公开谈论他们是否使用润肤霜和其他面部护肤品。我们同意哈基姆(2016)关于男性不断改善身体以试图在残酷的新自由主义背景下获得市场优势的压力的分析。然而,就护肤品而言,男性可能会自省地凝视镜子,沉思自己使用面部护肤品后获得的改善,但他们希望这种消费不被他人看到。这种无形的消费可以被视为一种迹象,表明在现代性晚期,人们对男子气概的不确定性越来越大,而且男性认为他们生活中的某些方面应该留给自己。
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引用次数: 3
Food consumption, social class and taste in contemporary Portugal 当代葡萄牙的食品消费、社会阶层和品味
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-01-06 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221149114
Vasco Ramos
In this article, I investigate the logic underlying household food consumption in Portugal and how it relates to class positioning, like other expressions of culture. Therefore, the paper examines the Bourdieusian hypothesis of homology between the field of food and the configuration of social positions in Portuguese society against the hypotheses that emphasise homogenisation and individualisation of consumption patterns. I start by remapping the Portuguese social space, using an approach inspired by the analysis pioneered by Bourdieu on Distinction and recently taken up by several streams of research. Drawing on the national Household Budget Survey, I then develop a Correspondence Analysis of expenditure on a wide range of foodstuffs. The analysis is supplemented by data from the Second Large Survey on Sustainability in Portugal, seeking to examine patterns in ethical dispositions concerning food and drink in contemporary Portugal and their homology with class. Concluding on a degree of similarity between the space of food consumption and the space of social positions engendered by differences in the overall volume and composition of capital, I close with reflections on the methodological challenges of this approach and on the broader significance of these results for our understanding of consumption in Portugal.
在这篇文章中,我调查了葡萄牙家庭食品消费的逻辑,以及它与阶级定位的关系,就像其他文化表达一样。因此,本文将葡萄牙社会中食物领域和社会地位配置之间同源性的布迪厄假说与强调消费模式同质化和个性化的假说进行了对比。我首先重新映射了葡萄牙的社会空间,采用了一种方法,这种方法的灵感来自布迪厄对差异的分析,最近被多个研究流所采用。根据全国家庭预算调查,我对各种食品的支出进行了对应分析。该分析得到了葡萄牙第二次可持续性大型调查的数据的补充,该调查旨在研究当代葡萄牙食品和饮料的道德倾向模式及其与阶级的同源性。最后,由于资本总量和构成的差异,粮食消费空间和社会地位空间之间存在一定程度的相似性,我最后反思了这种方法在方法上的挑战,以及这些结果对我们理解葡萄牙消费的更广泛意义。
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引用次数: 0
The German space of lifestyles: A multidetermined structure 生活方式的德国空间:一个多决定结构
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-01-05 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221149117
W. Atkinson, Piotr Marzec
This paper charts the space of lifestyles in Germany in order to assess whether its structure resembles that famously uncovered in France by Bourdieu. Mobilising multiple correspondence analysis and using data from a bespoke national survey of tastes and lifestyles fielded in 2017–18 ( n = 2244), it unveils a two-dimensional system defined by tastes for the culturally exclusive and the economically exclusive. These dimensions are strongly associated with indicators of cultural capital and economic capital, and reveal differences by both capital volume and capital composition, but they are also structured by age and ethnic origin. While age is indicative of Bourdieu’s concept of trajectory, the effects of ethnicity underscore the relative autonomy of the space of lifestyles and suggest its determination by more than one structural force.
本文绘制了德国生活方式的空间图,以评估其结构是否与布迪厄在法国发现的著名生活方式相似。利用多重对应分析,并使用2017-18年进行的一项针对品味和生活方式的定制全国调查的数据(n=2244),它揭示了一个由文化排他性和经济排他性的品味定义的二维系统。这些维度与文化资本和经济资本的指标密切相关,并揭示了资本数量和资本构成的差异,但它们也按年龄和种族出身构成。虽然年龄表明了布迪厄的轨迹概念,但种族的影响强调了生活方式空间的相对自主性,并表明它是由不止一种结构性力量决定的。
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引用次数: 1
Memories reminisced, reconciled, renewed: Hong Kong male consumers’ wardrobes and their search for a congruent self 回忆回忆,和解,更新:香港男性消费者的衣柜和他们对一致自我的追求
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-01-04 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221149098
T. Tse, Johanna von Pezold
Previous research on fashion, clothing and accessorising practices typically stressed either the symbolic and identity-creating or practical and habitual functions of fashion, often neglecting its affective, emotive and mnemonic aspects. Drawing on affective theory and the agency of things, we theorise how the affects, feelings and emotions attached to active and inactive fashion objects evoke and are evoked by the consumer’s ongoing reminiscence, reconciliation, and renewal of memories. Remapping the intricate relationship among consumers, memory, affect, and fashion objects, this article employs wardrobe study interviews to reconceptualise the clothing consumption, storage and disposal practices of male fashion consumers in Hong Kong and their trans-temporal self-memory-object relationships. Interviewing 21 gay male participants while physically going through their wardrobes together reveals the mnemonic abilities of clothes and accessories to bring up the past, their functioning as emotive devices, and the process of how affective, unpatterned feelings and sensations are reminisced, reconciled and renewed through fashion. These unique theoretical and methodological approaches make it possible to delve deeper into consumers’ intimate material and sensual relationships with clothing and accessory items, which are often used to make sense of incongruent memories and future fantasies, also enabling their ongoing mediation of unresolved affective experiences and curation of a linear cultural script of personal development.
以往对时尚、服装和配饰实践的研究通常强调时尚的象征性和身份创造,或实用性和习惯性功能,而往往忽视其情感、情感和记忆方面。根据情感理论和事物的能动性,我们对活跃和不活跃的时尚物品所产生的影响、感受和情绪是如何唤起消费者持续的回忆、和解和记忆更新的。本文通过对香港男性时尚消费者的服装消费、存储和处置行为及其跨时自我记忆-对象关系的问卷调查,重新梳理了消费者、记忆、情感和时尚对象之间的复杂关系。采访了21名男同性恋参与者,同时一起翻阅他们的衣柜,揭示了衣服和配饰唤起过去的记忆能力,它们作为情感装置的作用,以及情感、未经修饰的感觉和感受如何通过时尚被回忆、调和和更新的过程。这些独特的理论和方法使我们有可能更深入地研究消费者与服装和配饰的亲密物质和感官关系,这些关系通常被用来理解不协调的记忆和未来的幻想,也使他们能够持续调解未解决的情感体验,并策划个人发展的线性文化脚本。
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引用次数: 1
How does materiality ‘bite back’? Investigating cassette tapes in local, translocal and virtual music scenes 物质性是如何“反噬”的?调查本地、跨本地和虚拟音乐场景中的盒式磁带
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-01-04 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221149095
Benjamin Duester, A. Bennett
Despite its status as an analogue sound carrier, the cassette has shown remarkable resilience in the digital era. Drawing on qualitative data gathered in three significant markets for cassettes, Japan, Australia and the USA, during 2018 and 2019, this article explores how the cassette tape’s material significance in the 21st century manifests itself in a complex network of interrelated local, translocal and virtual practices of music creation, distribution and consumption. The article draws on Magaudda’s ‘circuit of practice’ concept and Peterson and Bennett’s three tier model of scenes (local, trans-local and virtual). Taking the cassette’s hybrid occurrence and usage throughout a plethora of highly distinctive music scenes in Japan, Australia and the United States as a basis, we argue that Magaudda’s ‘circuit of practice’ theory needs to be structurally extended to grasp the multifaceted circuits of music in the digital age. This requires that the occurrence of a single audio format such as the cassette is recurringly analysed within different cultural contexts in order to map and delineate the format’s overall significance for contemporary music practices.
尽管盒式磁带的地位是模拟声音的载体,但它在数字时代表现出了非凡的弹性。本文利用2018年至2019年期间在日本、澳大利亚和美国三个重要的磁带市场收集的定性数据,探讨了21世纪盒式磁带的物质意义如何在音乐创作、发行和消费的相互关联的本地、跨本地和虚拟实践的复杂网络中体现出来。本文借鉴了Magaudda的“实践回路”概念以及Peterson和Bennett的三层场景模型(本地、跨本地和虚拟)。以盒式磁带在日本、澳大利亚和美国众多极具特色的音乐场景中的混合出现和使用为基础,我们认为Magaudda的“实践电路”理论需要在结构上进行扩展,以把握数字时代音乐的多方面电路。这就要求在不同的文化背景下反复分析磁带等单一音频格式的出现,以便绘制和描绘该格式对当代音乐实践的总体意义。
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引用次数: 0
Marketing of donor eggs by offering possibilities for imaginary actualization of recipients’ ideal self 通过为接受者的理想自我提供想象实现的可能性来推销捐赠卵子
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221149103
Y. Bokek-Cohen
Donor eggs have become commercialized and egg agencies mediate between egg consumers and donors. Despite the rapid growth of this industry, there is a paucity of research focusing on the imaginary aspects of the marketing strategies employed in the egg donation commerce. This article is based on a content analysis of American egg donor profiles. Inspired by Baudrillardian theory, I analyze the marketing strategy and show how egg donors are perfectionized using cultural notions of hegemonic femininity, in order to attract egg consumers by tacitly encouraging them to create an imagined hyperreal ideal self. This marketing strategy aims to de-commodify genetic substance in order to facilitate the exploitation of consumers’ self-concept for business goals. The identity of the donor is imbued with greater meaning for consumers than merely her genetic material, hence offers possibilities for the imaginary actualization of consumers’ ideal selves. Consumers are invited to exercise their agency and form a simulacrum of their desired self and materialize their utmost psychological identity aspirations.
捐赠卵子已经商业化,卵子机构在卵子消费者和捐赠者之间进行调解。尽管这个行业发展迅速,但很少有研究关注卵子捐赠商业中使用的营销策略的想象方面。本文基于对美国卵子捐献者档案的内容分析。受鲍德里亚理论的启发,我分析了卵子捐献者的营销策略,并展示了如何利用霸权女性气质的文化观念来完善卵子捐献者,从而通过默许他们创造一个想象中的超现实理想自我来吸引卵子消费者。这种营销策略旨在将遗传物质去商品化,以促进利用消费者的自我概念实现商业目标。捐赠者的身份对消费者来说比她的遗传物质更有意义,因此为消费者理想自我的想象实现提供了可能性。消费者被邀请行使他们的代理权,形成他们想要的自我的模拟,实现他们最大的心理认同愿望。
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引用次数: 0
The good life as accountable: Moralities of dress consumption in China and Romania 美好生活的责任:中国和罗马尼亚的服装消费道德
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221141951
T. Tse, I. Gheorghiu
Practice theoretical approaches in consumption studies centre practices over practitioners, the material and mundane over the symbolic and embodied skill over individual choice. Pointing to practice theory’s neglect of the role of intersubjectivity and the deeply interactional character of performances in practice formation, this article relies on interviews with young urban consumers in China and Romania to explore dress practices in the two postsocialist locales in consumers’ pursuit of ‘the good life’. We reflect on the intertwining of consumption with this moral project grounded in both the materiality and sociality of dress. By centring performances, we rearticulate the relationship between normativity and accountability in materialising the everyday consumption norms. We tease out the meaningful role of interaction in maintaining and altering the boundaries of dress practices, and subjecting postsocialist consumers to processes of self- and mutual-monitoring on the way to attaining ‘the good life’. This comprehensive approach fruitfully complements the oft-criticised epistemological monism and theoretical imprecision of practice theory.
消费研究中的实践理论方法将实践置于从业者之上,将物质和世俗置于象征和具体技能之上,而非个人选择。针对实践理论忽视主体间性的作用以及表演在实践形成中的深层互动性,本文通过对中国和罗马尼亚城市年轻消费者的采访,探讨了这两个后社会主义地区消费者追求“美好生活”的着装实践。我们从服饰的物质性和社会性两个方面来思考消费与这个道德项目的交织。通过集中表现,我们重新阐述了规范性和问责制之间的关系,使日常消费规范具体化。我们梳理了互动在保持和改变着装实践界限方面的重要作用,并使后社会主义消费者在实现“美好生活”的过程中受到自我和相互监督。这种综合的方法有效地补充了经常被批评的认识论一元论和实践理论的理论不精确性。
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引用次数: 1
Divestment as investment: “Kondo-Ing” selves in the context of over accumulation 撤资即投资:过度积累背景下的“近道化”自我
IF 2.6 3区 社会学 Q1 CULTURAL STUDIES Pub Date : 2022-11-25 DOI: 10.1177/14695405221140545
Meghann Lucy
The accumulation, display, and use of objects have long been recognized as a means through which individuals construct social position and the self. Consumption can thus be thought of as investment, with seemingly infinite payoff as more status items are consumed. However, in the context of overaccumulation, privileged individuals with “cluttered” homes are disposing of their still-valuable possessions. This article uses narrative and content analyses of a critical case, Tidying Up with Marie Kondo, a Netflix program designed to help families with cluttered homes sort through their things, to explore the meanings associated with accumulating “too much”: namely, uncontrolled, unactualized selves; class transgression; and failed gender and parental roles. Discarding items, regardless of their value, reduces the clutter, which eliminates the problems symbolized by having too much. Thus, divestment is framed as a means through which individuals can invest in the self, particularly in class position, gender and parental roles, and agency.
长期以来,物体的积累、展示和使用一直被认为是个人构建社会地位和自我的一种手段。因此,消费可以被认为是一种投资,随着更多的状态物品被消费,似乎会有无限的回报。然而,在过度积累的背景下,拥有“杂乱”房屋的特权人士正在处理他们仍然宝贵的财产。这篇文章使用了对一个关键案例的叙事和内容分析,《与近藤玛丽一起整理》是一个网飞节目,旨在帮助家里杂乱的家庭整理他们的东西,以探索与积累“太多”相关的含义:即不受控制、未被实现的自我;阶级越轨;以及失败的性别和父母角色。丢弃物品,无论其价值如何,都会减少混乱,从而消除因拥有过多而带来的问题。因此,撤资被定义为一种个人可以投资自我的方式,特别是在阶级地位、性别和父母角色以及代理方面。
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引用次数: 1
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Journal of Consumer Culture
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