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Obtaining of medical textiles based on viscose and chitosan with simultaneously improved sorption and antibacterial properties by using dielectric barrier discharge 采用介质阻挡放电法制备粘胶和壳聚糖医用纺织品,同时提高了其吸附和抗菌性能
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104046k
Matea Korica, A. Kramar, Zdenka Peršin, B. Obradović, M. Kuraica, L. Fras-Zemljič, M. Kostić
This study aimed to obtain textile based on viscose and chitosan with simultaneously improved sorption and antibacterial properties. For that reason, before functionalization with chitosan, the viscose fabric was modified by nonthermal gas plasma of dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) to introduce into its structure functional groups suitable for improved adsorption of chitosan. Functional groups' content of unmodified and DBD modified viscose fabric was determined by the calcium acetate method, while their influence on the surface charge, as well as the success of the functionalization of viscose fabrics with chitosan, was evaluated by measuring the zeta potential. Morphological, sorption and antibacterial properties of unmodified and DBD modified viscose fabrics, before and after functionalization with chitosan, were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, capillary rise method, and standard test method ASTME 2149-01: 2001, respectively. The obtained results showed that the treatment with DBD contributed to the simultaneous improvement of sorption and antibacterial properties of viscose fabric functionalized with chitosan, making it suitable for the production of high value-added medical textiles.
以粘胶和壳聚糖为基料,制备具有较好吸附性能和抗菌性能的织物。为此,在壳聚糖功能化之前,先用介质阻挡放电(DBD)的非热等离子体对粘胶织物进行改性,在其结构中引入适合壳聚糖增强吸附的官能团。采用醋酸钙法测定了未改性和DBD改性的粘胶织物的官能团含量,并通过测定zeta电位来评价其对表面电荷的影响,以及壳聚糖对粘胶织物的功能化是否成功。采用扫描电子显微镜、毛细管上升法和ASTME 2149- 01:20 01标准试验方法,对壳聚糖功能化前后未改性和DBD改性粘胶织物的形态、吸附性能和抗菌性能进行了表征。结果表明,经DBD处理后,壳聚糖功能化粘胶织物的吸附性能和抗菌性能同时得到改善,适合生产高附加值医用纺织品。
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引用次数: 0
The development of textile industry in Shtip 上海纺织工业的发展
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104014k
Silvana Zhezhova, Sonja Jordeva, Sashka Golomeova-Longurova, S. Maksimov, Vanga Dimitrijeva-Kuzmanoska
The city of Shtip is the main garment production center in the Eastern part of the Republic of North Macedonia. The textile industry participates with 70% in the total achievements of the industry in the Municipality. There are over 60 companies for production of clothes in Shtip, and among their most important partners are Germany, Italy, Austria, Belgium and the Netherlands. Most of the clothing companies are organized as small or medium enterprises for production of casual clothes such as shirts, blouses, etc., which operate on the basis of the "LON" (LOHN) production system.
施提普市是北马其顿共和国东部的主要服装生产中心。全市纺织工业产值占全市纺织工业产值的70%。Shtip有60多家服装生产公司,其中最重要的合作伙伴是德国、意大利、奥地利、比利时和荷兰。服装公司大多组织为生产衬衫、衬衫等休闲服装的中小型企业,以“LON”(LOHN)生产体系为基础运作。
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引用次数: 1
Theses for new strategies of work and development of textile and clothing industry, part 3 第三部分:纺织服装行业工作与发展的新战略
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104004d
D. Dimitrijević
The modern business of the textile and clothing industry implies product fragmentation, which is followed by the defragmentation of the production cycle on a global level, which today is facilitated by technical and technological innovations. The dominance of the corporate entity in the modern economy means that every company must constantly monitor changes, in order to actively engage in the continuous generation of competitive advantages. It can be said that the basis of modern competitiveness today is quality, flexibility, the existence of raw materials, degree of automation, organizational innovation, human resources and cluster business, while creativity - original design, specialization, diversification, technical and technological innovation, e-business and circular economy are key factors in maintaining a competitive position in the global market. Coexistence with the new global rules is the inevitability of modern strategies for the work and development of the textile and clothing industry, which requires, among other things, continuous investment in raising productivity or product credibility, using internationally accepted certification methods, launching new product lines and expanding markets by conquering new segments on different basis (branding, online shopping, recycling, fast fashion, etc.). It should be noted that in addition to all the above factors companies (part - 1, 2 and 3) influencing the work and development of textile and clothing industry, which should be an integral part of new strategies, there are other factors that may be important or even crucial for successful and efficient operation, development and operation of textile and clothing industry companies.
纺织和服装工业的现代商业意味着产品的碎片化,随之而来的是全球范围内生产周期的碎片化,而今天,技术和技术创新促进了这一点。公司实体在现代经济中的主导地位意味着每个公司都必须不断地监测变化,以便积极地从事持续产生竞争优势。可以说,今天现代竞争力的基础是质量、灵活性、原材料的存在、自动化程度、组织创新、人力资源和集群业务,而创造力——原创设计、专业化、多样化、技术和技术创新、电子商务和循环经济是在全球市场上保持竞争地位的关键因素。与新的全球规则共存是纺织服装行业工作和发展的现代战略的必然,这需要在提高生产力或产品信誉方面不断投入,使用国际公认的认证方法,推出新的产品线,并通过在不同基础上征服新的细分市场(品牌,网上购物,回收,快时尚等)来扩大市场。需要指出的是,除了上述所有影响纺织服装行业工作和发展的因素(第1、2、3部分)应该成为新战略的组成部分之外,还有其他因素对于纺织服装行业公司的成功和高效的运作、发展和运作可能是重要的,甚至是至关重要的。
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引用次数: 0
Management of communication in crisis situations in the textile and clothing companies 纺织服装公司危机情况下的沟通管理
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2103010v
Aleksandra Vuković, Milovan Vuković, S. Urošević, I. Mladenović-Ranisavljević
Numerous branches of industry, involving the textile and clothing sector, are subjected to various negative trends of the COVID-19 pandemic period and other crises. Crisis management in a systematic manner within a company represents one of the possible replies aiming at reducing the adverse effects of these events. The analysis of companies' experiences in encountering such an unwanted event shows that good communication facilitates crisis management. The main goal of this paper is to consider the role of public relations in the crisis management. The first part of this paper considers different forms of crisis that every production company has to take into account. The middle part of the paper focuses on the crisis management process, and, also, analyzes possible communication strategies. In the final part of the paper, attention is paid to the recent experiences in terms of crisis communication management in well-known companies.
包括纺织和服装行业在内的众多行业都受到新冠肺炎大流行期间和其他危机的各种负面趋势的影响。在公司内部以系统的方式进行危机管理是一种可能的解决办法,旨在减少这些事件的不利影响。通过对企业遭遇此类意外事件的经验分析,可以看出良好的沟通有助于危机管理。本文的主要目的是考虑公共关系在危机管理中的作用。本文的第一部分考虑了每个生产公司必须考虑的不同形式的危机。论文的中间部分重点介绍了危机管理过程,并分析了可能的沟通策略。在论文的最后部分,重点介绍了近年来知名企业危机沟通管理的经验。
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引用次数: 0
Fashion shows and fashion week during Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 2020年2019冠状病毒病大流行期间的时装秀和时装周
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2103029s
Milena Savić, Radmila Savić, Dragana Frfulanović
The pandemic that hit the world in 2020 significantly affected global business and the fashion industry. Companies have been forced to rethink their current way of doing business, while consumers have reviewed their priorities, emerging needs and constraints, care for health, the environment, and the community. All these aspects together have shaped a slightly different global fashion market and companies' business practices, which have made great efforts to maintain their status, audience, and sales. The focus of this paper is Milan's "Fashion Week" held during 2020 and innovative technological solutions that serve to compensate for the limitations imposed by circumstances. Also, there's a few words about other (un)predictable situations such as price fluctuations, closure of production plants, overcoming safety and environmental challenges, and sustainable business.
2020年席卷全球的新冠肺炎疫情严重影响了全球商业和时尚产业。公司被迫重新思考他们目前的经营方式,而消费者则重新审视了他们的优先事项、新出现的需求和限制,以及对健康、环境和社区的关注。所有这些因素共同塑造了一个略有不同的全球时尚市场和公司的商业惯例,这些公司都在努力保持自己的地位、受众和销售。本文的重点是2020年举行的米兰“时装周”和创新的技术解决方案,以弥补环境施加的限制。此外,还有一些其他(不可预测的)情况,如价格波动,关闭生产工厂,克服安全和环境挑战,以及可持续发展的业务。
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引用次数: 0
3D virtual fitting system on woman's garment 女装3D虚拟试衣系统
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104072j
M. Jankoska
Fit is one of the major concerns for the clothing industry, and pattern development process is significant during clothing manufacturing and the way clothing is constructed. Various pattern making methods have been introduced to the industry considering clothing fit satisfaction, but it is still impossible to provide the optimized clothing pattern for mass production. The aim of this paper is practical implications about 3D virtual fit simulation technology as a fit assessment tool in the fashion industry i.e. to predict the behavior of women's pants in relation to fitting and comfort in different poses of avatar. This was done by application CAD Clo 3D fashion design software.
合身是服装行业关注的主要问题之一,而图案开发过程在服装制造和服装构造过程中具有重要意义。考虑到服装合身的满意度,各种制版方法已经被引入到行业中,但仍然无法提供适合批量生产的最佳服装图案。本文的目的是关于3D虚拟合身模拟技术作为时尚行业合身评估工具的实际意义,即预测女性裤子在不同姿势下的合身和舒适行为。这是通过应用CAD Clo三维服装设计软件完成的。
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引用次数: 2
Analysis of the first autochthonous subculture in fashion history: Antimode style of "Incroyables" and "Marveilleuses" 时尚史上第一次本土亚文化分析:“不可思议”和“奇迹”的反时尚风格
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2102048k
Marija Kertakova, Sonja Jordeva, J. Efremov
This scientific article is devoted to an extremely intriguing topic, so relevant among connoisseurs of fashion history and fashion costume (but not enough among ordinary fashion lovers) and is of great benefit to today's science, fashion and fashion industry, as it relates to the question of how socio-political events can greatly influence the construction of a completely new costume, radically different from the conventional one. One of the main goals of this scientific work is to reconsider and critically analyze the costumes of the most rebellious young people who lived in the late XVIII century. The so-called "Incroyables" and "Merveilleuses" emerged as the first autochthonous subculture in the history of fashion, contributing to fashion through the characteristic elements and variations of men's and women's costumes, thus defining a completely new social ideal of beauty, embodied and expressed with the help of fashionable women's and men's suits from this period. On the other hand, thanks to the knowledge and study of this new way and method of structuring the costume, the horizon is born in which it becomes clear how the new young people appeared after the second half of the 20th century, and the designers of the new age cleverly use accumulated historical material in their creative practice and embody the same in a way so characteristic of the spirit of the time. Due to the fact that fashion has various manifestations, I have also used cross-cultural research methods -attracting certain parts of sociology and structural and systematic analysis..
这篇科学文章致力于一个非常有趣的话题,与时尚历史和时尚服装鉴赏家相关(但对普通时尚爱好者来说还不够),对今天的科学、时尚和时尚产业有很大的好处,因为它涉及到社会政治事件如何极大地影响一种全新的服装的构建,从根本上不同于传统的。这项科学工作的主要目标之一是重新考虑和批判性地分析生活在十八世纪晚期最叛逆的年轻人的服装。所谓的“Incroyables”和“Merveilleuses”是时尚史上第一个本土亚文化,通过男女服装的特色元素和变化为时尚做出贡献,从而定义了一种全新的社会审美理想,并借助这一时期的时尚男女西装来体现和表达。另一方面,由于对这种新的服装结构方式和方法的认识和研究,20世纪下半叶之后的新年轻人是如何出现的,新时代的设计师们在创作实践中巧妙地运用了积累的历史材料,并以一种具有时代精神特征的方式体现出来。由于时尚具有多种表现形式,我也使用了跨文化的研究方法——吸引了社会学的某些部分以及结构和系统的分析。
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引用次数: 0
Blindstitch machines for men suit manufacturing: Part 2 男西服制造用盲针机。第2部分
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2103041n
Ineta Nemeša
Different blindstitch machines are used in men suit industrial manufacturing process to replace traditional manual sewing techniques and ensure high work process productivity. The waistband of the trousers is felled with special machines of stitches 103. Beltloop machines process double-folded belt loops for trousers with or without inserted tape. To create 3D shape to lapels and collars of jacket padding machines are used. Spot tacking machines fix together two or more layers of fabric with stitches invisible on the face side of the garment. Machines for felling undercollars create V-shaped zig-zag stitches 314. Two kind of machines are used to fell the lining in the armhole and bottom of the sleeve. Blindstitch machines for certain technological operations are manufactured by companies: Strobel, Maier, Japsew, Global, others.
西服工业生产过程中采用不同的盲缝机,取代传统的手工缝制工艺,保证了较高的工序生产率。裤子的腰身是用特殊的机器缝成的。腰带环机加工裤子的双折腰带环,有或没有插入胶带。为了创建三维形状的翻领和衣领的夹克填充机使用。点钉机将两层或多层织物固定在一起,在衣服正面看不见缝线。裁剪衣领下的机器会缝出v形的锯齿形针脚。有两种机器用来在袖窿和袖子底部打落衬里。用于某些技术操作的盲针机器由以下公司制造:Strobel, Maier, Japsew, Global等。
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引用次数: 1
The emergence of fashion elements in facemasks during the early stages of Covid-19 pandemic: Evidence from social media Part I: Investigation of facemask trends among Instagram fashion influencers 在Covid-19大流行的早期阶段,口罩中出现了时尚元素:来自社交媒体的证据第一部分:对Instagram时尚影响者中口罩趋势的调查
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2104030t
Elena Tomovska
The global Covid 19 pandemic introduced a new item in everyday dress-the facemask. During 2020, fashion elements crept in the design of this primarily functional item. This research aims to analyse fashion trends in facemasks in the early stages of the Covid 19 pandemic. Photos with facemasks on social media were used, as traditional fashion photography underrepresents facemask wearing. The research showed that fashion influencers on Instagram-the media of choice of the fashion industry, showed facemasks primarily as a PPE. The uncertainty on how long non-pharmaceutical solutions in the fight against Covid 19 will be in place raises the question if fashion should be ignored. When persuading people to wear facemasks could fashion be the carrot to the stick of legislation?
2019冠状病毒病(Covid - 19)全球大流行在日常着装中引入了一种新物品——口罩。在2020年期间,时尚元素悄悄进入了这款主要功能物品的设计中。本研究旨在分析新冠肺炎大流行初期口罩的流行趋势。他们使用了社交媒体上戴口罩的照片,因为传统的时尚摄影不足以代表戴口罩。研究表明,在时尚界的首选媒体instagram上,有时尚影响力的人表示,口罩主要是作为个人防护用品。在抗击Covid - 19的斗争中,非药物解决方案的不确定性会持续多久,这引发了一个问题,即时尚是否应该被忽视。在说服人们戴口罩时,时尚是否可以成为立法大棒上的胡萝卜?
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引用次数: 1
Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes 用天然染料染色纺织品
Pub Date : 2020-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind2004012j
Sonja Jordeva, Marija Kertakova, Silvana Zhezhova, Sashka Golomeova-Longurova, Kiro Mojsov
In recent years there has been a great interest in the application of natural dyes in dyeing textiles due to their biodegradability and high compatibility with the environment. According to the experts, there is a great potential for using natural dyes to the extent that in some areas they can very easily replace synthetic ones. This paper reports the studies available on the characterization, classification and analysis of natural dyes; extraction of dyes from onion's outer shell and effects of different mordants and mordanting methods on the color shade. From an environmental point of view, replacing synthetic dyes with natural ones is not only a strategy to reduce risk and pollutants, but also an opportunity for new markets and jobs.
近年来,由于天然染料具有生物可降解性和与环境的高度相容性,在纺织品染色中的应用受到了极大的关注。专家们认为,使用天然染料有很大的潜力,在某些领域,它们可以很容易地取代合成染料。本文综述了天然染料的表征、分类和分析等方面的研究进展;洋葱外壳染料的提取及不同媒染剂和媒染法对洋葱色泽的影响。从环境的角度来看,用天然染料替代合成染料不仅是减少风险和污染的策略,也是开拓新市场和就业机会的机会。
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引用次数: 3
期刊
Tekstilna industrija
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