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Modification of polyester fabric by treatment in alkaline solution 涤纶织物碱溶液改性研究
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1903050r
N. Ristic, D. Jocić, I. Ristić
Today, polyester is the most important textile fi ber by consumption. The aesthetic appearance, feel and comfort of polyester fabrics can be improved by controlled surface modifi cation, by treatment in alkaline solution. In this paper, the eff ect of sodium hydroxide solution on the chemical and morphological changes of the polyester fabric is studied and their eff ect on some comfort properties, such as moisture transport and air permeability. Linear weight loss of fabric with processing time was determined. The roughness of the fi ber surface and the incorporation of oxygen functional groups into the fi ber structure contribute the modifi ed specimens to have greater air permeability and better moisture absorption and transport than the original fabric.
今天,涤纶是消耗量最大的纺织纤维。通过在碱性溶液中进行表面改性,可以改善涤纶织物的美观性、手感和舒适性。本文研究了氢氧化钠溶液对涤纶织物的化学和形态变化的影响及其对织物的吸湿性和透气性等舒适性能的影响。测定了织物的线性失重随加工时间的变化。纤维表面的粗糙度和氧官能团在纤维结构中的掺入使改性后的样品比原始织物具有更大的透气性和更好的吸湿和输湿性。
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引用次数: 0
Non-financial reporting in the textile industry 纺织行业的非财务报告
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1902050V
Kosana Vićentijević
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引用次数: 3
Investigation of seam puckering in woman's blouse 女衬衫缝褶的研究
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1903045m
S. Maksimov, Sashka Golomeova-Longurova, Sonja Jordeva, D. Andronikov
In this study, mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated in order to fi nd the cause for seam puckering problem in armhole and neckline area of woman’s blouse. The same model of woman’s blouse was produced from two types of fabrics with diff erent raw material content: 100% silk and 100 % polyester. The obtained results show that both fabrics have a low shear rigidity, indicating that fabrics extension in bias direction is high. The fabrics extension in bias direction has infl uence on seam puckering in armhole and neckline area of the blouse because there is sewing in bias direction except sewing in warp and weft directions.
为找出女式衬衫袖窿及领口部位缝起皱的原因,对面料的力学性能进行了研究。同一款女式衬衫由两种不同原料含量的面料制成:100%真丝和100%涤纶。结果表明,两种织物的剪切刚度均较低,表明织物在偏置方向上的伸长率较高。面料偏伸对袖窿和领口部位的缝起皱有影响,因为除了经纬方向的缝外,还有偏伸方向的缝。
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引用次数: 0
Removal of hydrolized reactive dyes from cotton fabric after dyeing 棉织物染色后水解活性染料的去除
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1901025R
N. Ristic, I. Ristić, Dragana Marković-Nikolić, Aleksandra Mičić, A. Zdravković
Removal of hydrolysed reactive dye is an important stage in cotton dyeing as it aff ects the exploitation and hygienic properties of textile products. As a major consumer of water and chemicals, this work process is being studied from the point of view of saving natural resources and environmental protection. In this paper, studied was the eff ect of washing agents on the basis of surfactants with diff erent ionogenicity as well as pure water on the removal of hydrolyzed reactive dyes having diff erent functional groups. The obtained results suggest that clean water with a larger bath ratio (1:30) and a washing time of 30 min can be an eff ective remover for hydrolysed monoreactive dye. In the removal of the hydrolysed bifunctional dye, beside the bath ratio and washing times, the concentration of surfactants can also have a signifi cant eff ect on the process effi ciency.
水解活性染料的脱除是棉染色的重要环节,它直接影响到纺织品的开发利用和卫生性能。作为水和化学品的主要消费者,这一工作过程正从节约自然资源和保护环境的角度进行研究。本文研究了以不同离子原性表面活性剂为基础的清洗剂和纯水对不同官能团水解活性染料的去除效果。结果表明,较大浴液比(1:30)、洗涤时间为30min的清水可作为水解单活性染料的有效去除剂。在水解双功能染料的脱除中,除浴液比和洗涤次数外,表面活性剂的浓度对工艺效率也有显著影响。
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引用次数: 0
Laser finishing in manufacturing of denim garments 牛仔服装制造中的激光整理
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1904020n
Ineta Nemeša, E. Csanák
Laser fi nishing is one of the methods which combined with other traditional denim fi nishing methods gives the best quality to ready denim garments. Changing process parameters diff erent level and shape material degradations are created to obtain visual look and touch of long time worn clothing. During the last time period traditional denim fi nishing methods are used to get the main eff ects and soft touch of the material, while by help of laser fi nishing dipper degradations of smaller size are created. On the bases of productivity, which depends on laser power and dimensions and movement principles of the work surface, laser fi nishing equipment can be divided in several groups: shop lasers, laser equipment for small and medium orders, laser equipment for medium and large orders and laser equipment for large production orders.
激光整理是与其他传统牛仔布整理方法相结合,使牛仔布成衣达到最佳质量的方法之一。改变工艺参数,产生不同程度和形状的材料降解,以获得长时间穿着的服装的视觉外观和触感。在过去的一段时间里,传统的牛仔织物整理方法是为了获得面料的主要效果和柔软触感,而激光整理则可以产生更小尺寸的退化。在生产力的基础上,这取决于激光功率和工作表面的尺寸和运动原理,激光精加工设备可分为几组:车间激光器,中小型订单激光设备,中大型订单激光设备和大型生产订单激光设备。
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引用次数: 1
Automated management systems to organize work process in a cutting room 自动管理系统,在剪辑室组织工作过程
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1902045N
Ineta Nemeša
Lay planning and marker making are processes which prepare and organize work process in a cutting room. Traditionally, material requirement planning, material inventory and lay planning are separate work steps fulfi lled in diff erent departments by diff erent specialists. A lot of paperwork, manual performance of calculations and inexistence of united and easy accessible data base complicates work process and reduces its quality. Already the second decade several companies off er specialized software which links together ERP (Enterprise Recourse Planning), fabric management system, CAD and CAM, exchanges information in between these systems and creates the best solutions to cut material for manufacturing orders. The most important work steps are: running of diff erent planning scenarios, establishing the marker processing time, performing marker calculations, spreading planning and processing of manufacturing reports.
铺设计划和标记制作是在切割室中准备和组织工作过程的过程。传统上,物料需求计划、物料库存和铺设计划是由不同部门的不同专家完成的独立工作步骤。大量的文书工作、手工计算以及缺乏统一、易于访问的数据库使工作过程复杂化,降低了工作质量。在过去的十年里,一些公司已经开发了专门的软件,将ERP(企业资源规划)、织物管理系统、CAD和CAM连接在一起,在这些系统之间交换信息,并为制造订单创造最佳的材料切割解决方案。最重要的工作步骤是:运行不同的计划场景,建立标记处理时间,执行标记计算,传播计划和制造报告的处理。
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引用次数: 1
The influence of ideas of surrealism in fashion design 超现实主义思想对服装设计的影响
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1904036k
Marija Kertakova
The eff orts of fashion modellers, designers, and manufacturers to produce clothing for the modern man have led to a huge variety of stylistic tendencies when designing the clothes. However, they are based on both archetypal principles related to the immutability of the physical parameters of the human body and its psycho-physical needs, related to the design, production, sale and use of clothing. The artist and fashion designer, as well as all the other fi gures in the consumer-creator chain, are rethinking their role. The value of clothing as a work of art comes to the fore, but it is also very important for the modern man to be signifi cative with the help of clothes which the wearer wears as information on his cultural and philosophical doctrine. The relationship between art and costume is atypical for an average person, but only for one who has a particularly thorough knowledge of both objects and understands that fashion is part of applied art (which means that fashion is on its own way – very individual specifi c kind of art). In connection with the above works, the object of my research is the process of emulation, processing and applying the artistic experience of XX century painting – i.e. Surrealism in the costume of XX and XXI centuries. How was the transfer of the artistic elements of painting done, their adaptation and modifi cation in some of the most emblematic models of world-famous designers working in the XX and XXI centuries.
时装模特、设计师和制造商为现代人生产服装的努力,在设计服装时导致了各种各样的风格倾向。然而,它们是基于与人体物理参数的不变性有关的原型原则和与服装的设计、生产、销售和使用有关的心理-生理需求。艺术家和时装设计师,以及消费者-创造者链上的所有其他角色,都在重新思考自己的角色。服装作为一件艺术品的价值是显而易见的,但对现代人来说,穿着者所穿的衣服作为其文化和哲学教义的信息也很重要。艺术和服装之间的关系对普通人来说是非典型的,但只有对这两种对象都有特别透彻的了解并理解时尚是应用艺术的一部分的人(这意味着时尚是自己的方式-非常个性化的特定艺术类型)。结合以上作品,我的研究对象是对二十世纪绘画艺术经验——超现实主义在二十世纪和二十一世纪服装中的模拟、加工和应用的过程。绘画艺术元素的转移是如何完成的,它们在20世纪和21世纪工作的世界著名设计师的一些最具代表性的模型中是如何适应和修改的?
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引用次数: 1
Inter-phase control of defects and reasons for their occurrence in the process of sewing women's trousers 女式裤子缝制过程中疵点的阶段性控制及产生原因
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1901004R
S. Risteski, Sonja Kortoseva, Vineta Srebrenkoska
Quality is the best investment to strengthen the competitiveness of enterprises in the international market. Achieving quality is the responsibility of every worker in the organization. The role of quality control is to detect defects by constantly monitoring the production process, analyzing the defects, fi nd the source of their occurrence and take appropriate corrective measurements. In this paper, are presented some factors that have infl uence on defects occurrence in the process of sewing one model of female trousers. The obtained results during the inter-phase control in two production lines in the four week period are analyzed. Possible reasons for detected defects are indicated by: Working days in the week, the structure of the employees in the production lines, their work experience, their age and diffi culty of operations. The infl uence of each of these factors is discussed separately.
质量是加强企业在国际市场上竞争力的最佳投资。实现质量是组织中每个工人的责任。质量控制的作用是通过不断监控生产过程,分析缺陷,找到缺陷发生的根源,并采取适当的纠正措施来发现缺陷。介绍了一款女裤在缝制过程中产生疵点的一些影响因素。分析了两条生产线在4周时间内的阶段性控制结果。检测到缺陷的可能原因用:每周工作天数,生产线员工结构,工作经验,年龄,操作难度。对这些因素的影响分别进行了讨论。
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引用次数: 0
The impact of harmfulness in work process on safety and health of employed women with regard to the textile industry 纺织行业工作过程中有害因素对就业妇女安全和健康的影响
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1903004s
V. Stefanović, S. Urošević
The business dynamics of modern organizations require a proactive approach to protecting the health and safety of employees at work, which will identify potential risks, eliminate them, or reduce the likelihood of their occurrence to an acceptable level by preventive action. In this regard, the research in this paper focuses on the analysis of the working environment and working conditions, from the aspect of risk assessment, in various industrial sectors in the territory of the Jablanica Administrative District. Twenty work places in diff erent manufacturing processes were observed and analyzed, those work places where the level of occupational risk is increased and where employed women are exposed to a number of negative infl uance of risk factors that occur in the work process. Based on the results, it was concluded that the most common negative impact on the health and safety of employees has noise and chemical hazards. It has been found that there is a high level of risk due to the exposure of employees to chemical hazards in textile manufacturing. The obtained results indicate that the methods used in this research can be successfully used in order to identify risk factors in the work process, and thus to manage the quality of the work environment.
现代组织的业务动态要求采取积极主动的办法来保护工作中的雇员的健康和安全,这种办法将识别潜在风险,消除风险,或通过预防行动将其发生的可能性降低到可接受的水平。在这方面,本文的研究侧重于分析的工作环境和工作条件,从风险评估方面,在贾布拉尼察行政区境内的各个工业部门。对20个不同生产工序的工作场所进行了观察和分析,这些工作场所的职业风险水平较高,就业妇女在工作过程中受到各种风险因素的负面影响。根据这些结果,得出的结论是,对员工健康和安全最常见的负面影响是噪音和化学危害。人们发现,在纺织制造业中,由于雇员接触到化学品危害,存在很高的风险。研究结果表明,本研究中使用的方法可以成功地用于识别工作过程中的风险因素,从而管理工作环境的质量。
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引用次数: 3
Bizantyne art and its influence on contemporary fashion 比赞泰艺术及其对当代时尚的影响
Pub Date : 2019-01-01 DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1904026f
Dragana Frfulanović-Šomođi, Milena Savić
Byzantine art, though strictly canonized in theme and style, has given, through works of art such as mosaics, fresco painting, and illuminated manuscripts, numerous plays illustrating the canons and fashion of the Byzantine man. The most prominent are examples of portraits of the Byzantine emperors, which create the opinion that Byzantine fashion was primarily ceremonial, created for the needs of offi cial performances. This type of clothing has its stages of development and change conditioned by the constant need for more beautiful and diff erent. The symbolism of each segment of the ruler’s costume and jewelry indicates the need to stand out as unique in front of his subjects, which draws a kind of parallel with today’s high fashion world and celebrities as their representation in socially signifi cant events. The work also follows examples of contemporary collections of famous fashion designers inspired by Byzantine art.
拜占庭艺术虽然在主题和风格上被严格地奉为经典,但通过马赛克、壁画和彩绘手稿等艺术作品,许多戏剧都展示了拜占庭人的经典和时尚。最突出的例子是拜占庭皇帝的肖像,这使人们认为拜占庭的时尚主要是礼仪,是为官方表演的需要而设计的。这种类型的服装有其发展和变化的阶段,条件是不断需要更美丽和不同。这位统治者的服装和珠宝的每一部分都具有象征意义,这表明他需要在他的臣民面前脱颖而出,这与当今的高级时装界和名人在社会重大事件中的代表有某种相似之处。该作品还遵循了受拜占庭艺术启发的当代著名时装设计师的作品。
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引用次数: 0
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Tekstilna industrija
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