Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1903050r
N. Ristic, D. Jocić, I. Ristić
Today, polyester is the most important textile fi ber by consumption. The aesthetic appearance, feel and comfort of polyester fabrics can be improved by controlled surface modifi cation, by treatment in alkaline solution. In this paper, the eff ect of sodium hydroxide solution on the chemical and morphological changes of the polyester fabric is studied and their eff ect on some comfort properties, such as moisture transport and air permeability. Linear weight loss of fabric with processing time was determined. The roughness of the fi ber surface and the incorporation of oxygen functional groups into the fi ber structure contribute the modifi ed specimens to have greater air permeability and better moisture absorption and transport than the original fabric.
{"title":"Modification of polyester fabric by treatment in alkaline solution","authors":"N. Ristic, D. Jocić, I. Ristić","doi":"10.5937/tekstind1903050r","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/tekstind1903050r","url":null,"abstract":"Today, polyester is the most important textile fi ber by consumption. The aesthetic appearance, feel and comfort of polyester fabrics can be improved by controlled surface modifi cation, by treatment in alkaline solution. In this paper, the eff ect of sodium hydroxide solution on the chemical and morphological changes of the polyester fabric is studied and their eff ect on some comfort properties, such as moisture transport and air permeability. Linear weight loss of fabric with processing time was determined. The roughness of the fi ber surface and the incorporation of oxygen functional groups into the fi ber structure contribute the modifi ed specimens to have greater air permeability and better moisture absorption and transport than the original fabric.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71135915","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1902050V
Kosana Vićentijević
{"title":"Non-financial reporting in the textile industry","authors":"Kosana Vićentijević","doi":"10.5937/TEKSTIND1902050V","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/TEKSTIND1902050V","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71135267","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1903045m
S. Maksimov, Sashka Golomeova-Longurova, Sonja Jordeva, D. Andronikov
In this study, mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated in order to fi nd the cause for seam puckering problem in armhole and neckline area of woman’s blouse. The same model of woman’s blouse was produced from two types of fabrics with diff erent raw material content: 100% silk and 100 % polyester. The obtained results show that both fabrics have a low shear rigidity, indicating that fabrics extension in bias direction is high. The fabrics extension in bias direction has infl uence on seam puckering in armhole and neckline area of the blouse because there is sewing in bias direction except sewing in warp and weft directions.
{"title":"Investigation of seam puckering in woman's blouse","authors":"S. Maksimov, Sashka Golomeova-Longurova, Sonja Jordeva, D. Andronikov","doi":"10.5937/tekstind1903045m","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/tekstind1903045m","url":null,"abstract":"In this study, mechanical properties of the fabrics were investigated in order to fi nd the cause for seam puckering problem in armhole and neckline area of woman’s blouse. The same model of woman’s blouse was produced from two types of fabrics with diff erent raw material content: 100% silk and 100 % polyester. The obtained results show that both fabrics have a low shear rigidity, indicating that fabrics extension in bias direction is high. The fabrics extension in bias direction has infl uence on seam puckering in armhole and neckline area of the blouse because there is sewing in bias direction except sewing in warp and weft directions.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71136024","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1901025R
N. Ristic, I. Ristić, Dragana Marković-Nikolić, Aleksandra Mičić, A. Zdravković
Removal of hydrolysed reactive dye is an important stage in cotton dyeing as it aff ects the exploitation and hygienic properties of textile products. As a major consumer of water and chemicals, this work process is being studied from the point of view of saving natural resources and environmental protection. In this paper, studied was the eff ect of washing agents on the basis of surfactants with diff erent ionogenicity as well as pure water on the removal of hydrolyzed reactive dyes having diff erent functional groups. The obtained results suggest that clean water with a larger bath ratio (1:30) and a washing time of 30 min can be an eff ective remover for hydrolysed monoreactive dye. In the removal of the hydrolysed bifunctional dye, beside the bath ratio and washing times, the concentration of surfactants can also have a signifi cant eff ect on the process effi ciency.
{"title":"Removal of hydrolized reactive dyes from cotton fabric after dyeing","authors":"N. Ristic, I. Ristić, Dragana Marković-Nikolić, Aleksandra Mičić, A. Zdravković","doi":"10.5937/TEKSTIND1901025R","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/TEKSTIND1901025R","url":null,"abstract":"Removal of hydrolysed reactive dye is an important stage in cotton dyeing as it aff ects the exploitation and hygienic properties of textile products. As a major consumer of water and chemicals, this work process is being studied from the point of view of saving natural resources and environmental protection. In this paper, studied was the eff ect of washing agents on the basis of surfactants with diff erent ionogenicity as well as pure water on the removal of hydrolyzed reactive dyes having diff erent functional groups. The obtained results suggest that clean water with a larger bath ratio (1:30) and a washing time of 30 min can be an eff ective remover for hydrolysed monoreactive dye. In the removal of the hydrolysed bifunctional dye, beside the bath ratio and washing times, the concentration of surfactants can also have a signifi cant eff ect on the process effi ciency.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"107 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71134607","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1904020n
Ineta Nemeša, E. Csanák
Laser fi nishing is one of the methods which combined with other traditional denim fi nishing methods gives the best quality to ready denim garments. Changing process parameters diff erent level and shape material degradations are created to obtain visual look and touch of long time worn clothing. During the last time period traditional denim fi nishing methods are used to get the main eff ects and soft touch of the material, while by help of laser fi nishing dipper degradations of smaller size are created. On the bases of productivity, which depends on laser power and dimensions and movement principles of the work surface, laser fi nishing equipment can be divided in several groups: shop lasers, laser equipment for small and medium orders, laser equipment for medium and large orders and laser equipment for large production orders.
{"title":"Laser finishing in manufacturing of denim garments","authors":"Ineta Nemeša, E. Csanák","doi":"10.5937/tekstind1904020n","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/tekstind1904020n","url":null,"abstract":"Laser fi nishing is one of the methods which combined with other traditional denim fi nishing methods gives the best quality to ready denim garments. Changing process parameters diff erent level and shape material degradations are created to obtain visual look and touch of long time worn clothing. During the last time period traditional denim fi nishing methods are used to get the main eff ects and soft touch of the material, while by help of laser fi nishing dipper degradations of smaller size are created. On the bases of productivity, which depends on laser power and dimensions and movement principles of the work surface, laser fi nishing equipment can be divided in several groups: shop lasers, laser equipment for small and medium orders, laser equipment for medium and large orders and laser equipment for large production orders.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71135785","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1902045N
Ineta Nemeša
Lay planning and marker making are processes which prepare and organize work process in a cutting room. Traditionally, material requirement planning, material inventory and lay planning are separate work steps fulfi lled in diff erent departments by diff erent specialists. A lot of paperwork, manual performance of calculations and inexistence of united and easy accessible data base complicates work process and reduces its quality. Already the second decade several companies off er specialized software which links together ERP (Enterprise Recourse Planning), fabric management system, CAD and CAM, exchanges information in between these systems and creates the best solutions to cut material for manufacturing orders. The most important work steps are: running of diff erent planning scenarios, establishing the marker processing time, performing marker calculations, spreading planning and processing of manufacturing reports.
{"title":"Automated management systems to organize work process in a cutting room","authors":"Ineta Nemeša","doi":"10.5937/TEKSTIND1902045N","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/TEKSTIND1902045N","url":null,"abstract":"Lay planning and marker making are processes which prepare and organize work process in a cutting room. Traditionally, material requirement planning, material inventory and lay planning are separate work steps fulfi lled in diff erent departments by diff erent specialists. A lot of paperwork, manual performance of calculations and inexistence of united and easy accessible data base complicates work process and reduces its quality. Already the second decade several companies off er specialized software which links together ERP (Enterprise Recourse Planning), fabric management system, CAD and CAM, exchanges information in between these systems and creates the best solutions to cut material for manufacturing orders. The most important work steps are: running of diff erent planning scenarios, establishing the marker processing time, performing marker calculations, spreading planning and processing of manufacturing reports.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71135199","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1904036k
Marija Kertakova
The eff orts of fashion modellers, designers, and manufacturers to produce clothing for the modern man have led to a huge variety of stylistic tendencies when designing the clothes. However, they are based on both archetypal principles related to the immutability of the physical parameters of the human body and its psycho-physical needs, related to the design, production, sale and use of clothing. The artist and fashion designer, as well as all the other fi gures in the consumer-creator chain, are rethinking their role. The value of clothing as a work of art comes to the fore, but it is also very important for the modern man to be signifi cative with the help of clothes which the wearer wears as information on his cultural and philosophical doctrine. The relationship between art and costume is atypical for an average person, but only for one who has a particularly thorough knowledge of both objects and understands that fashion is part of applied art (which means that fashion is on its own way – very individual specifi c kind of art). In connection with the above works, the object of my research is the process of emulation, processing and applying the artistic experience of XX century painting – i.e. Surrealism in the costume of XX and XXI centuries. How was the transfer of the artistic elements of painting done, their adaptation and modifi cation in some of the most emblematic models of world-famous designers working in the XX and XXI centuries.
{"title":"The influence of ideas of surrealism in fashion design","authors":"Marija Kertakova","doi":"10.5937/tekstind1904036k","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/tekstind1904036k","url":null,"abstract":"The eff orts of fashion modellers, designers, and manufacturers to produce clothing for the modern man have led to a huge variety of stylistic tendencies when designing the clothes. However, they are based on both archetypal principles related to the immutability of the physical parameters of the human body and its psycho-physical needs, related to the design, production, sale and use of clothing. The artist and fashion designer, as well as all the other fi gures in the consumer-creator chain, are rethinking their role. The value of clothing as a work of art comes to the fore, but it is also very important for the modern man to be signifi cative with the help of clothes which the wearer wears as information on his cultural and philosophical doctrine. The relationship between art and costume is atypical for an average person, but only for one who has a particularly thorough knowledge of both objects and understands that fashion is part of applied art (which means that fashion is on its own way – very individual specifi c kind of art). In connection with the above works, the object of my research is the process of emulation, processing and applying the artistic experience of XX century painting – i.e. Surrealism in the costume of XX and XXI centuries. How was the transfer of the artistic elements of painting done, their adaptation and modifi cation in some of the most emblematic models of world-famous designers working in the XX and XXI centuries.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71136095","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/TEKSTIND1901004R
S. Risteski, Sonja Kortoseva, Vineta Srebrenkoska
Quality is the best investment to strengthen the competitiveness of enterprises in the international market. Achieving quality is the responsibility of every worker in the organization. The role of quality control is to detect defects by constantly monitoring the production process, analyzing the defects, fi nd the source of their occurrence and take appropriate corrective measurements. In this paper, are presented some factors that have infl uence on defects occurrence in the process of sewing one model of female trousers. The obtained results during the inter-phase control in two production lines in the four week period are analyzed. Possible reasons for detected defects are indicated by: Working days in the week, the structure of the employees in the production lines, their work experience, their age and diffi culty of operations. The infl uence of each of these factors is discussed separately.
{"title":"Inter-phase control of defects and reasons for their occurrence in the process of sewing women's trousers","authors":"S. Risteski, Sonja Kortoseva, Vineta Srebrenkoska","doi":"10.5937/TEKSTIND1901004R","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/TEKSTIND1901004R","url":null,"abstract":"Quality is the best investment to strengthen the competitiveness of enterprises in the international market. Achieving quality is the responsibility of every worker in the organization. The role of quality control is to detect defects by constantly monitoring the production process, analyzing the defects, fi nd the source of their occurrence and take appropriate corrective measurements. In this paper, are presented some factors that have infl uence on defects occurrence in the process of sewing one model of female trousers. The obtained results during the inter-phase control in two production lines in the four week period are analyzed. Possible reasons for detected defects are indicated by: Working days in the week, the structure of the employees in the production lines, their work experience, their age and diffi culty of operations. The infl uence of each of these factors is discussed separately.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71134760","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1903004s
V. Stefanović, S. Urošević
The business dynamics of modern organizations require a proactive approach to protecting the health and safety of employees at work, which will identify potential risks, eliminate them, or reduce the likelihood of their occurrence to an acceptable level by preventive action. In this regard, the research in this paper focuses on the analysis of the working environment and working conditions, from the aspect of risk assessment, in various industrial sectors in the territory of the Jablanica Administrative District. Twenty work places in diff erent manufacturing processes were observed and analyzed, those work places where the level of occupational risk is increased and where employed women are exposed to a number of negative infl uance of risk factors that occur in the work process. Based on the results, it was concluded that the most common negative impact on the health and safety of employees has noise and chemical hazards. It has been found that there is a high level of risk due to the exposure of employees to chemical hazards in textile manufacturing. The obtained results indicate that the methods used in this research can be successfully used in order to identify risk factors in the work process, and thus to manage the quality of the work environment.
{"title":"The impact of harmfulness in work process on safety and health of employed women with regard to the textile industry","authors":"V. Stefanović, S. Urošević","doi":"10.5937/tekstind1903004s","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/tekstind1903004s","url":null,"abstract":"The business dynamics of modern organizations require a proactive approach to protecting the health and safety of employees at work, which will identify potential risks, eliminate them, or reduce the likelihood of their occurrence to an acceptable level by preventive action. In this regard, the research in this paper focuses on the analysis of the working environment and working conditions, from the aspect of risk assessment, in various industrial sectors in the territory of the Jablanica Administrative District. Twenty work places in diff erent manufacturing processes were observed and analyzed, those work places where the level of occupational risk is increased and where employed women are exposed to a number of negative infl uance of risk factors that occur in the work process. Based on the results, it was concluded that the most common negative impact on the health and safety of employees has noise and chemical hazards. It has been found that there is a high level of risk due to the exposure of employees to chemical hazards in textile manufacturing. The obtained results indicate that the methods used in this research can be successfully used in order to identify risk factors in the work process, and thus to manage the quality of the work environment.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71135631","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-01-01DOI: 10.5937/tekstind1904026f
Dragana Frfulanović-Šomođi, Milena Savić
Byzantine art, though strictly canonized in theme and style, has given, through works of art such as mosaics, fresco painting, and illuminated manuscripts, numerous plays illustrating the canons and fashion of the Byzantine man. The most prominent are examples of portraits of the Byzantine emperors, which create the opinion that Byzantine fashion was primarily ceremonial, created for the needs of offi cial performances. This type of clothing has its stages of development and change conditioned by the constant need for more beautiful and diff erent. The symbolism of each segment of the ruler’s costume and jewelry indicates the need to stand out as unique in front of his subjects, which draws a kind of parallel with today’s high fashion world and celebrities as their representation in socially signifi cant events. The work also follows examples of contemporary collections of famous fashion designers inspired by Byzantine art.
{"title":"Bizantyne art and its influence on contemporary fashion","authors":"Dragana Frfulanović-Šomođi, Milena Savić","doi":"10.5937/tekstind1904026f","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5937/tekstind1904026f","url":null,"abstract":"Byzantine art, though strictly canonized in theme and style, has given, through works of art such as mosaics, fresco painting, and illuminated manuscripts, numerous plays illustrating the canons and fashion of the Byzantine man. The most prominent are examples of portraits of the Byzantine emperors, which create the opinion that Byzantine fashion was primarily ceremonial, created for the needs of offi cial performances. This type of clothing has its stages of development and change conditioned by the constant need for more beautiful and diff erent. The symbolism of each segment of the ruler’s costume and jewelry indicates the need to stand out as unique in front of his subjects, which draws a kind of parallel with today’s high fashion world and celebrities as their representation in socially signifi cant events. The work also follows examples of contemporary collections of famous fashion designers inspired by Byzantine art.","PeriodicalId":33802,"journal":{"name":"Tekstilna industrija","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71135838","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}