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Words Matter: A Content Analysis of the Definitions and Usage of the Terms for Apparel Marketed to People Living With Disabilities 词语很重要:面向残疾人销售服装术语的定义和用法的内容分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-07-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19890416
Kerri McBee-Black, Haebeen Jung
The purpose of this study was to gain a baseline understanding of the terms currently used to define apparel for people living with disability (PLWD) and to encourage discussion for satisfying the apparel needs and wants of PLWD. The objectives were to conduct a literature review of the terms—adaptive, functional, universal design, and inclusive design—to survey how these terms are used in the marketplace, and to compare their usage to that in the literature. The results of a content analysis showed that adaptive is the most popular term used in the marketplace, yet, according to the literature review, reflects a medical model of disability. The term functional reflects a utilitarian purpose in the literature, with minimal application for PLWD in the marketplace. The terms universal and inclusive design are rarely used to define apparel for PLWD in the marketplace despite the heavy focus in the literature.
本研究的目的是对目前用于定义残疾人服装的术语有一个基本的了解,并鼓励讨论如何满足残疾人的服装需求。我们的目标是对适应性设计、功能性设计、通用设计和包容性设计等术语进行文献回顾,调查这些术语在市场上的使用情况,并将其与文献中的使用情况进行比较。内容分析的结果表明,适应性是市场上最常用的术语,然而,根据文献综述,反映了残疾的医学模式。“功能性”一词反映了文献中的功利目的,PLWD在市场上的应用很少。术语通用和包容性设计很少用于定义服装的PLWD在市场上,尽管在文献的沉重焦点。
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引用次数: 7
Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion 重点问题导论:纺织品和时尚的历史
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20935637
L. Welters, Abby Lillethun
The introduction to the focused issue draws attention to research in the history of textiles and fashion among International Textile and Apparel Association members. It is divided into three parts: the past, the present, and the future. In the first section, a review of the history of dress and textiles under the umbrella of “clothing and textiles” is provided. In the section on the present, a snapshot is given of the current situation now that dress and textile history has been accepted by a wide range of academic disciplines. Finally, suggestions are offered to move the historic area forward in the journal and the organization.
对重点问题的介绍引起了国际纺织服装协会成员对纺织品和时尚历史研究的关注。它分为三个部分:过去、现在和未来。在第一部分中,在“服装和纺织品”的框架下,对服装和纺织品的历史进行了回顾。在关于现在的部分中,简要介绍了服装和纺织史已被广泛的学术学科所接受的现状。最后,提出了在学报和组织中推进历史区域建设的建议。
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引用次数: 0
Machine Learning (ML) for Tracking Fashion Trends: Documenting the Frequency of the Baseball Cap on Social Media and the Runway 追踪时尚趋势的机器学习(ML):记录社交媒体和t台上棒球帽的频率
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-06-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20931195
R. Getman, D. Green, K. Bala, Utkarsh Mall, Nehal Rawat, Sonia Appasamy, B. Hariharan
With the proliferation of digital photographs and the increasing digitization of historical imagery, fashion studies scholars must consider new methods for interpreting large data sets. Computational methods to analyze visual forms of big data have been underway in the field of computer science through computer vision, where computers are trained to “read” images through a process called machine learning. In this study, fashion historians and computer scientists collaborated to explore the practical potential of this emergent method by examining a trend related to one particular fashion item—the baseball cap—across two big data sets—the Vogue Runway database (2000–2018) and the Matzen et al. Streetstyle-27K data set (2013–2016). We illustrate one implementation of high-level concept recognition to map a fashion trend. Tracking trend frequency helps visualize larger patterns and cultural shifts while creating sociohistorical records of aesthetics, which benefits fashion scholars and industry alike.
随着数码照片的激增和历史图像的日益数字化,时尚研究学者必须考虑解释大型数据集的新方法。在计算机科学领域,通过计算机视觉来分析大数据的视觉形式的计算方法正在进行中,在计算机视觉中,计算机通过一种称为机器学习的过程来训练“读取”图像。在这项研究中,时尚历史学家和计算机科学家合作,通过两个大数据集——Vogue Runway数据库(2000-2018)和Matzen等人——研究与一种特定时尚物品(棒球帽)相关的趋势,探索这种新兴方法的实际潜力。Streetstyle-27K数据集(2013-2016)。我们举例说明了一个高级概念识别的实现,以映射时尚趋势。跟踪趋势频率有助于可视化更大的模式和文化转变,同时创造美学的社会历史记录,这对时尚学者和行业都有好处。
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引用次数: 5
Fashioned Bodies in Roller Derby League Logos: Critical Analysis of Race, Gender, Body Size and Position, Clothing, and Aesthetics 时尚的身体在轮滑德比联赛标志:种族,性别,身体大小和位置,服装和美学的批判性分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-06-17 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20930086
Kelly L. Reddy-Best, D. Green, Kelsie Doty
Revival of roller derby in the early 2000s garnered significant interest in the sport, and an extensive network of leagues began to form. By 2018, approximately 1,500 leagues were operating in North America, each with a unique logo. In this study, we focus on the league logos as a potent form of embodied fashion representation. Using content analysis, we examined all of the logos for U.S. Women’s Flat Track Derby Association–member leagues and have interpreted our findings through a critical cultural analysis. Revival of roller derby in the aughts has repositioned the sport as inclusive of diverse bodies; however, the logos tell a different story. League logos perpetuate hyperfeminized, thin-centric, white bodies—that is, the norms that derby athletes are performatively challenging through participation in the sport.
21世纪初,轮滑德比的复兴引起了人们对这项运动的极大兴趣,一个广泛的联盟网络开始形成。到2018年,大约有1500个联赛在北美运营,每个联赛都有一个独特的标志。在这项研究中,我们将重点放在联赛标志作为一种具身时尚表现的有力形式上。使用内容分析,我们检查了美国女子平道德比协会成员联盟的所有标志,并通过批判性的文化分析来解释我们的发现。轮滑德比在奥运会上的复兴重新定位了这项运动,使其包括各种各样的团体;然而,商标却讲述了一个不同的故事。联盟的标志延续了超级女性化的、以瘦为中心的、白人的身体——也就是说,德比运动员通过参与这项运动在表演上挑战了这些规范。
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引用次数: 2
Song Brocade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties 明清时期的宋锦
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-06-17 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20932657
Kunying Chen, D. Lu, Zimin Jin, Miao Su, Jing Jin
Song brocade is Chinese traditional brocade that originated in the Song dynasty but flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Its delicate patterns, graceful colors, and exquisite techniques show the unique craftsmanship of ancient China. The fabric structure, pattern, and weaving technique had changed greatly because of the social environment, cultural customs, and other factors during the Ming and Qing dynasties. This article proposed a new series of classification for Song brocade patterns in Ming and Qing dynasties and recurred the fabric weave of Song brocade in Ming and Qing dynasties. Besides, the research provided a concise English-language description of historical background, varieties, and specifications based primarily on Chinese-language research publications.
宋锦是中国传统的织锦,起源于宋代,兴盛于明清时期。其精致的图案,优雅的色彩,精湛的工艺显示了中国古代独特的工艺。明清时期,由于社会环境、文化习俗等因素的影响,其织物结构、图案和编织技术都发生了很大的变化。本文对明清时期的宋锦图案提出了一系列新的分类,并对明清时期宋锦的织法进行了梳理。此外,本研究主要以中文研究出版物为基础,对历史背景、品种和规格进行了简明的英文描述。
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引用次数: 2
Millennials’ Intention to Use Self-Checkout Technology in Different Fashion Retail Formats: Perceived Benefits and Risks 千禧一代在不同时尚零售形式中使用自助结账技术的意图:感知的好处和风险
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-05-19 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20926577
Hanna Lee, K. Leonas
With an increase in automation, fashion retailers started to offer a self-checkout option in their stores to meet diverse consumers’ demand. Self-checkout technology has great potential to enhance the shopping experience of millennials, who increasingly dominate the market with increasing buying power, placing convenience as their top priority in the shopping process. However, despite the potential, it is unclear what drives and inhibits millennials to use self-checkout in the fashion retail context. Therefore, the aim of this study is to examine millennials’ intention to use self-checkout in the fashion retail environment with regard to their perceptions of benefits and risks. Data were collected from 352 millennials through an online survey. Perceived benefits and risks identified in this study are the key antecedents of the intention to use self-checkout in the fashion retail stores. Also, individuals who have a low need for human interaction are more likely to use self-checkout.
随着自动化程度的提高,时尚零售商开始在店内提供自助结账选项,以满足不同消费者的需求。自助结账技术在提升千禧一代的购物体验方面具有巨大的潜力,随着购买力的增强,千禧一代日益主导市场,在购物过程中,方便是他们的首要任务。然而,尽管有潜力,但目前尚不清楚是什么驱动和抑制了千禧一代在时尚零售领域使用自助结账。因此,本研究的目的是研究千禧一代在时尚零售环境中使用自助结账的意图,以及他们对收益和风险的看法。通过在线调查收集了352名千禧一代的数据。本研究确定的感知利益和风险是时尚零售商店使用自助结账意愿的关键前因。此外,那些对人际交往需求不高的人更有可能使用自助结账。
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引用次数: 5
Muslim Women’s Purchasing Behaviors Toward Modest Activewear in the United States 美国穆斯林女性对适度运动服的购买行为
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-05-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20926573
Chanmi Hwang, Tae Ho Kim
This study examines Muslim women’s purchasing behaviors toward modest activewear in the United States and tests the underlying mechanism of intent to purchase activewear, based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). A sample of veiled Muslim women (N = 328) participated in this study. Results from structural equation modeling revealed that perceived aesthetic attributes and compatibility with regard to apparel functionality, expressiveness, and aesthetics are significant predictors of attitude toward purchasing activewear. Attitude and subjective norm are significantly related to intent to purchase modest activewear, and religiosity indirectly influences purchase intention through the social norm. This research extends the TPB and contributes to the growing body of research on Muslim consumers’ purchasing behavior and to the growing modest apparel market and pro-hijab movement in the industry.
本研究基于计划行为理论(TPB),考察了美国穆斯林女性对适度运动服的购买行为,并检验了运动服购买意向的潜在机制。一个戴面纱的穆斯林妇女样本(N = 328)参与了这项研究。结构方程模型的结果显示,感知审美属性和服装功能性、表现力和美学的兼容性是运动服购买态度的显著预测因子。态度和主观规范与适度运动服购买意愿显著相关,宗教信仰通过社会规范间接影响购买意愿。这项研究扩展了TPB,并有助于越来越多的关于穆斯林消费者购买行为的研究,以及日益增长的适度服装市场和行业中支持头巾的运动。
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引用次数: 9
Sexy-Clothing Behavior of High School Girls: Sexual Self-Congruity and Parental and Popular Girls’ Influences 高中女生的性服饰行为:性自我和谐与父母与流行女孩的影响
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-05-11 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20923729
Jessie H. Chen-Yu, A. Elkins, Marjorie J. T. Norton
The present study focused on the sexy-clothing behavior of high school girls. Specifically, we examined whether high school girls wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts and whether parents and popular girls influence those behaviors. The results, obtained by applying structural equation modeling to analyze the data collected from 384 ninth-grade girls, imply that such girls wear sexy clothes to convey their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts. The girls’ perceptions of parents’ sexy-clothing approval and of popular girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior influence the high school girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior. Parents significantly influence high school girls’ tendencies to wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts. Popular girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior influences high school girls’ tendencies to wear sexy clothes to achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts. Implications of the findings are discussed.
本研究以高中女生的性感服饰行为为研究对象。具体来说,我们考察了高中女生穿着性感服装是否表达了她们实际的性自我概念,并实现了她们理想的性自我概念,以及父母和受欢迎的女孩是否影响了这些行为。运用结构方程模型对384名九年级女生的数据进行分析,结果表明,这些女生穿着性感服装是为了传达她们真实的性自我概念,实现她们理想的性自我概念。女生对家长对性感服饰认可的认知和对流行女生性感服饰行为的认知影响高中女生的性感服饰行为。父母显著影响高中女生穿性感服装来表达她们实际的性自我概念的倾向。流行女生的性感穿着行为影响了高中女生穿性感服装以实现理想性自我概念的倾向。讨论了研究结果的含义。
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引用次数: 0
Apparel Design Scholarship Practices: Analysis of ITAA Professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings From 1999 to 2017 服装设计奖学金实践:1999 - 2017年ITAA专业人士设计摘要论文集分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-04-29 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20921461
Young-A Lee, Seoha Min, S. Koo
We explored the topical trends of the International Textile and Apparel Association professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings (DAP) and how apparel design scholarship has been cited in the discipline for the past two decades. Using a content analysis, three research objectives were as follows: to examine (a) designer-identified keywords trends of the DAP, (b) to examine DAP directly cited in scholarly works, and (c) to examine DAP not directly cited but related to designers’ scholarship. Six overarching themes (inspirational references, apparel design, technology, sustainability practices, textiles, and nonapparel) were identified through the keywords analysis and used for further analyses. We found that design scholars were not used to cite other relevant scholarly works or their own works in their scholarly design work. The study findings provide an awareness for the strong need to establish citation practices for design scholars, which will add to the body of knowledge in clothing and textiles and increase the impact of design scholarship beyond the discipline.
我们探讨了国际纺织服装协会专业人员设计摘要会议(DAP)的主题趋势,以及过去二十年来服装设计奖学金在该学科中的引用情况。使用内容分析,三个研究目标如下:检查(a)设计师确定的DAP关键词趋势,(b)检查DAP在学术作品中直接引用,(c)检查DAP不直接被引用,但与设计师的学术研究相关。通过关键词分析确定了六个总体主题(灵感参考、服装设计、技术、可持续发展实践、纺织品和非服装),并用于进一步分析。我们发现,设计学者在其学术设计著作中不习惯引用其他相关学术著作或自己的著作。研究结果让人们意识到,为设计学者建立引文实践的强烈需求,这将增加服装和纺织品领域的知识体系,并增加设计学术在学科之外的影响力。
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引用次数: 4
The Ties That Bind: Britain’s Use of Scottish Highland Dress 纽带:英国人对苏格兰高地服饰的使用
IF 1.9 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Pub Date : 2020-04-13 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x20910789
David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders
For over 300 years, Britain has influenced Scotland’s national identity. Scottish Highland dress, which consists of kilts and tartans has been appropriated, manipulated, and transformed by the British in order to forward political, commercial, and social objectives. Scotland’s national dress has contributed to a more cohesive identity within the United Kingdom. However, available research only examines specific instances of British influence on—and usage of—kilts and tartans. The purpose of this study was to identify and explore a sample of key figures and historical events that illustrate the use of Scottish Highland dress to forward British interests. The researchers triangulated databases and secondary literature along with extant objects and materials, with the aim of developing a more holistic understanding of appropriation, manipulation, and transformation. Findings indicate how the context and usage of Scottish Highland dress was transformed over time.
300多年来,英国一直影响着苏格兰的民族认同。苏格兰高地服饰,由短裙和格子呢组成,被英国人挪用、操纵和改造,以推进政治、商业和社会目标。苏格兰的民族服饰使其在联合王国内部更具凝聚力。然而,现有的研究只考察了英国对苏格兰方格呢裙和格子呢的影响和使用的具体实例。本研究的目的是确定和探索一个关键人物和历史事件的样本,说明苏格兰高地服装的使用,以促进英国的利益。研究人员将数据库和二手文献与现存的物品和材料进行了三角测量,目的是对挪用、操纵和转化进行更全面的理解。研究结果表明,苏格兰高地服饰的背景和用法是如何随着时间的推移而改变的。
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引用次数: 1
期刊
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
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