Coastal Engineering最新文献_第8页

Green-gray connections: Coupled equations of wave attenuation and structural response for engineering design of hybrid infrastructure 绿灰连接：混合基础设施工程设计中波浪衰减与结构响应的耦合方程

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-30 Epub Date: 2025-09-15 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104877

Margaret Libby , Tori Tomiczek , Daniel T. Cox , Pedro Lomónaco

A quantitative method is proposed for predicting the engineering performance of a hybrid green-gray system comprised of a mangrove forest seaward of a conventional engineered structure to mitigate wave action. The method coupled existing empirical equations to (1) predict the wave height attenuation of random waves transmitted through the mangrove forest and (2) use the resulting significant wave height as input to existing equations to estimate wave overtopping on a vertical wall or rubble-mound revetment or wave force on a vertical wall. The predicted wave height attenuation was parameterized by a drag coefficient obtained from an empirical relation developed from previous laboratory results. The method was validated with data from two large-scale wave flume studies of wave overtopping and wave force, which used similar model mangroves at 1:2 and 1:1 scale, respectively. The method conservatively predicted the overtopping of a vertical wall or rubble-mound revetment within a factor of 1.7 for discharge rates greater than 1 × 10⁻³ m³/s/m and a factor of 3.5 for discharge rates greater than 1 × 10⁻⁴ m³/s/m. The predictions of wave forces were also conservative and were within a factor of 1.3 compared to the measurements. The overprediction of the wave force increased slightly with mangrove forest density, indicating a possible interaction between the waves and the green and gray features that reduced the wave forces more than expected from the wave attenuation alone. The apparent interaction was small, and the results of the proposed method were reasonable compared to the observations. The present results show promise for a design approach which assumes independent performance of the components to motivate a calculation coupling empirical equations to estimate the performance of hybrid green-gray systems for coastal defenses. Future study is necessary to parameterize wave attenuation by natural mangrove forests and to account for nonlinear processes such as wave breaking and wave-induced setup.

提出了一种定量的方法来预测一个由红树林组成的混合绿灰系统的工程性能，以减轻波浪作用的传统工程结构。该方法将现有经验方程耦合到(1)预测通过红树林传播的随机波的波高衰减；(2)将得到的显著波高作为现有方程的输入，以估计垂直墙或碎石丘护岸上的波浪过顶或垂直墙上的波浪力。预测的波高衰减由阻力系数参数化，阻力系数是从以前的实验室结果中得到的经验关系。该方法通过两个大型波浪水槽研究的数据进行了验证，这两个研究分别使用了1:2和1:1比例的类似模型红树林。对于流量大于1 × 10−3 m3/s/m的垂直墙或碎石丘护岸，该方法的保守预测因子为1.7；对于流量大于1 × 10−4 m3/s/m的护岸，该方法的保守预测因子为3.5。波浪力的预测也是保守的，与测量结果相比，误差在1.3倍以内。随着红树林密度的增加，对波浪力的过度预测略有增加，这表明波浪与绿色和灰色特征之间可能存在相互作用，这种相互作用比仅从波浪衰减中预期的更能降低波浪力。表观相互作用较小，所得结果与观测结果比较合理。目前的结果表明，一种假设组件独立性能的设计方法有望激发计算耦合经验方程来估计海防混合绿灰系统的性能。未来的研究需要对天然红树林的波浪衰减进行参数化，并考虑波浪破碎和波浪诱导建立等非线性过程。

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引用次数: 0

Effects of design parameters and sea level rise on lifecycle performance of rubble-mound breakwaters: A computational-statistical framework 设计参数和海平面上升对碎石丘防波堤生命周期性能的影响：一个计算统计框架

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-30 Epub Date: 2025-10-27 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104897

Mahdieh Givehki , Jeffrey Melby , Fabian Garcia Moreno , Kevin Hodgens , Ali Farhadzadeh

This study presents a simulation-based framework to evaluate the long-term performance of rubble-mound breakwaters under hydrodynamic forcing and sea level rise (

S L R

). The framework integrates synthetic storm generation (StormSim), process-based damage modeling (CSHORE), and suite of statistical methods, including Cox hazard models, Principal Component Analysis (

P C A

), and machine learning classification, to identify performance-critical parameters and assess structural resilience under non-stationary forcing conditions.

The methodology is demonstrated through application to 32 breakwater configurations at a site within the North Atlantic Coast Comprehensive Study region, with 1000 synthetic lifecycles spanning 50 years. Key findings for the tested wave climate include: steeper slopes exhibited 20-fold higher initial failure risk than milder slopes, though this differential decreased over time; armor stone size and porosity strongly influenced time-to-repair; spectral wave height and water level dominated damage prediction (odds ratios,

O R =

15.6 and 4.6); and

S L R

incorporation accelerated damage progression, particularly after Year 30.

The framework successfully quantified time-dependent reliability, extracted spatial damage patterns via PCA, and ranked forcing parameters by importance. While quantitative results are specific to North Atlantic conditions and selected breakwater configurations, the methodology is transferable given appropriate storm climatology,

S L R

projections, and structural parameters. The results demonstrate the importance of integrating sea level rise into performance-based coastal infrastructure design through physics-based modeling coupled with comprehensive statistical assessment.

本研究提出了一个基于模拟的框架来评估碎石丘防波堤在水动力强迫和海平面上升（SLR）作用下的长期性能。该框架集成了合成风暴生成（StormSim）、基于过程的损伤建模（CSHORE）和一套统计方法，包括Cox风险模型、主成分分析（PCA）和机器学习分类，以识别性能关键参数并评估非平稳强迫条件下的结构弹性。该方法通过应用于北大西洋海岸综合研究区域内的一个地点的32个防波堤配置来证明，1000个合成生命周期跨越50年。测试波浪气候的主要发现包括：陡坡的初始破坏风险是缓坡的20倍，尽管这种差异随着时间的推移而降低；护甲石的大小和孔隙度对修复时间有很大影响；波谱波高和水位在灾害预测中占主导地位（比值比，OR= 15.6和4.6）；单反掺入加速了损伤的进展，特别是在30年后。该框架成功地量化了时间依赖的可靠性，通过主成分分析提取了空间损伤模式，并根据重要程度对强迫参数进行了排序。虽然定量结果特定于北大西洋条件和选定的防波堤配置，但在适当的风暴气候学，SLR预测和结构参数的情况下，该方法是可转移的。结果表明，通过基于物理的建模和综合统计评估，将海平面上升纳入基于性能的沿海基础设施设计的重要性。

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引用次数: 0

A multistep statistical model to derive extreme sea levels for the global coastlines 一个多步骤统计模型，以得出全球海岸线的极端海平面

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-30 Epub Date: 2025-11-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104909

Duy Anh Alexandre, Chiranjib Chaudhuri

Coastal flooding due to extreme storm surges, high tides and extreme waves poses a significant threat to communities and ecosystems, especially in low-lying coastal floodplains. Coastal flood risk assessment requires the estimation of extreme sea levels to simulate the inundation extent. We develop an innovative multistep statistical model to estimate extreme sea levels around the global coastlines. Several sources of data are combined and a state-of-the-art extreme value model is employed to derive accurate extreme sea levels worldwide for the present time. Estimation of the still sea level is based on hindcast sea level data using ERA5 reanalysis and hydrodynamic modeling combined with historical records of sea levels from GLOSS-GESLA global tide gauges. This draws strength from the globally complete coverage of hindcast data and the accuracy and localized nature of observed sea level data. Additionally, the wave contribution to extreme sea level is considered, using significant wave height data from ERA5 reanalysis. The estimation of extreme sea levels is based on the Skew Surge Joint Probability Method, a statistical model which accounts for the separation of the sea level into the tide and surge components and has been used successfully to map extreme sea levels in the UK. The tide-surge separation of the sea levels is proven to improve the accuracy of the extreme sea level estimates, yet to our knowledge, such indirect methods have not been used in a global coastal risk assessment. The methodology yields a final database of present time extreme sea levels (18 return periods) for the global coastlines at 10km resolution.

由极端风暴潮、涨潮和极端海浪引起的沿海洪水对社区和生态系统构成重大威胁，特别是在低洼的沿海洪泛平原。沿海洪水风险评估需要估算极端海平面来模拟淹没程度。我们开发了一个创新的多步骤统计模型来估计全球海岸线周围的极端海平面。结合了几种来源的数据，并采用了最先进的极值模式，以获得目前全球范围内的精确极端海平面。静止海平面的估算基于ERA5再分析和水动力模拟的后验海平面数据，并结合GLOSS-GESLA全球潮汐计的海平面历史记录。这得益于全球全面覆盖的后播数据以及观测到的海平面数据的准确性和局地性。此外，利用ERA5再分析的重要波高数据，考虑了波浪对极端海平面的贡献。极端海平面的估计是基于歪斜浪涌联合概率法，这是一种统计模型，它将海平面分为潮汐和浪涌组成部分，并已成功地用于绘制英国的极端海平面图。经证实，潮汐与风暴潮之间的分离可以提高极端海平面估计的准确性，但据我们所知，这种间接方法尚未用于全球沿海风险评估。该方法产生了一个最终的数据库，其中包括当前全球海岸线的极端海平面（18个回归期），分辨率为10公里。

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引用次数: 0

Surrogate modelling of dike wave overtopping hydrodynamics using an adapted deep learning Vision Transformer 采用自适应深度学习视觉转换器的堤波过顶流体动力学代理建模

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-09-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104874

Wouter P. Schrama , Vera M. van Bergeijk , Patricia Mares-Nasarre , Joost P. den Bieman , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Juan P. Aguilar-López

Sea level rise can compromise the safety of coastal flood defences, as wave overtopping events are becoming more frequent and severe. This increasing threat emphasizes the need for accurate assessment of wave overtopping hydrodynamics over dikes, which is essential for evaluating flood safety. The currently available methods do not combine computational efficiency, detailed results and general applicability, which limits their use in modelling wave overtopping and the resulting dike erosion. To address these limitations, this study introduces the Wave Overtopping Surrogate Model (WOSM), a novel method for rapidly generating high-quality two-dimensional simulations of wave overtopping over the dike crest and landward slope. The foundation of the WOSM is the Vision Transformer Image to Image (ViTI2I), a new deep learning model that combines an adapted Vision Transformer with a convolutional decoder for next-frame prediction. Trained on CFD wave overtopping simulations, the WOSM accurately reproduces the overtopping hydrodynamics such as flow velocities, water depths, overtopping duration and vertical velocity profiles, including both spatial and temporal variations. The scope of the training data limits the applicability of the WOSM and its ability to consistently capture complex phenomena such as flow separation and reattachment, both of which could be improved by enriching the dataset. Its low computational demand makes it suitable for exploring additional applications, such as probabilistic design or simulating wave overtopping with evolving dike profiles for erosion assessment. Additionally, this study serves as a proof of concept that the WOSM framework could benefit other fields encountering comparable modelling constraints.

海平面上升可能危及沿海防洪堤的安全，因为海浪超过水面的事件变得越来越频繁和严重。这种日益增加的威胁强调了对堤防上浪漫过水动力进行准确评估的必要性，这对于评估洪水安全至关重要。目前可用的方法没有将计算效率、详细结果和一般适用性结合起来，这限制了它们在模拟波浪漫顶和由此产生的堤防侵蚀方面的应用。为了解决这些限制，本研究引入了波浪漫溢代理模型（WOSM），这是一种快速生成高质量波浪漫溢堤顶和向陆坡二维模拟的新方法。WOSM的基础是视觉转换图像到图像（ViTI2I），这是一种新的深度学习模型，将自适应视觉转换器与卷积解码器相结合，用于下一帧预测。经过CFD波浪过顶模拟的训练，WOSM可以精确地再现过顶流体动力学，如流速、水深、过顶持续时间和垂直速度分布，包括空间和时间变化。训练数据的范围限制了WOSM的适用性及其持续捕获复杂现象（如流动分离和再附着）的能力，这两者都可以通过丰富数据集来改进。它的低计算需求使其适合于探索其他应用，例如概率设计或模拟波浪漫过与不断变化的堤防剖面进行侵蚀评估。此外，本研究证明了WOSM框架可以使遇到类似建模约束的其他领域受益。

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引用次数: 0

Stability of single - layer cube armoured roundheads under wind and swell waves 单层立方体铠装圆头在风浪作用下的稳定性

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-09-02 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104873

Yalcin Yuksel , Esin Cevik , Cihan Sahin , Marcel R.A. van Gent , Burak Rehber , Baran Polat , Chingiz Mustafazade , Umutcan Inal , Mehmet Utku Ogur

This study investigates the stability of single-layer cube-armored breakwater roundheads under varying wave conditions, focusing on the influence of wave steepness, packing density, and cube material density. Experiments were conducted to assess the impact of different packing arrangements (62 % and 69 %) and unit weights (24 kN/m³ and 31.5 kN/m³) on the movement and displacement behavior of armor units. Wind and swell wave conditions were analyzed to evaluate sector-specific behavior across the roundhead. The results reveal that wave steepness plays a critical role in damage initiation, with wind waves causing earlier and more significant movement in the frontal sectors, while swell waves lead to delayed but widespread displacements toward the rear sectors due to enhanced diffraction effects. The roundhead exhibited non-uniform damage distribution, particularly in the second (45°–90°) and third (90°–135°) sectors, which emphasizes the importance of a sector-specific analysis in the design process. Furthermore, this study showed that packing density significantly influences the stability, with higher packing densities providing improved stability, irrespective of the block material density. High density (HD) cubes exhibited less movement compared to normal density cubes, highlighting the importance of geometric arrangement and lateral resistance in ensuring stability. Furthermore, a new formula has been derived based on the experimental data for the one - layer placement of normal density (ND) cubes. Overall, the findings underscore the need for a detailed sector-specific analyses in the design and evaluation of breakwater roundheads to enhance stability and resilience under varying wave conditions.

本文研究了不同波浪条件下单层立方铠装防波堤圆头的稳定性，重点研究了波浪陡度、填料密度和立方材料密度对圆头稳定性的影响。实验评估了不同装填方式（62%和69%）和单位重量（24 kN/m3和31.5 kN/m3）对装甲单位运动和位移行为的影响。分析了风和涌浪条件，以评估整个圆头的扇形特定行为。结果表明，波浪陡度对损伤起关键作用，风波在前缘扇区引起更早、更显著的运动，而膨胀波由于增强的衍射效应导致向后扇区延迟但广泛的位移。圆头显示出不均匀的损伤分布，特别是在第二扇区（45°-90°）和第三扇区（90°-135°），这强调了在设计过程中扇区特定分析的重要性。此外，该研究表明，填料密度显著影响稳定性，无论块体材料密度如何，填料密度越高，稳定性越好。与正常密度立方体相比，高密度立方体表现出较少的运动，突出了几何排列和横向阻力在确保稳定性方面的重要性。在此基础上，根据实验数据导出了一种新的正态密度立方体单层放置公式。总的来说，研究结果强调了在设计和评估防波堤圆头时需要进行详细的行业分析，以提高在不同波浪条件下的稳定性和弹性。

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引用次数: 0

Predicting shoreline changes using deep learning techniques with Bayesian optimisation 利用贝叶斯优化的深度学习技术预测海岸线变化

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-08-16 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104856

Tharindu Manamperi , Alma Rahat , Doug Pender , Demetra Cristaudo , Rob Lamb , Harshinie Karunarathna

Accurate prediction of shoreline change is vital for effective coastal planning and management, especially under increasing climate variabilities. This study explores the applicability of deep learning (DL) techniques, particularly Long Short-Term Memory (LSTM) and Convolutional Neural Network-LSTM (CNN-LSTM) models, for shoreline forecasting at monthly to inter-annual timescales, under two modelling approaches—direct input (DI) and autoregressive (AR). All models demonstrated the ability to reproduce temporal shoreline variability, while the autoregressive DL models were performing better.

Further, a noise impact assessment revealed that seasonal decomposition and noise filtering significantly enhanced the model performance. In particular, the models using 52-week data decomposition and residual noise reduction improved the model performance. The reduction of data noises also resulted in narrower ensemble prediction envelopes, indicating that ensemble candidate models behave with low diversity. The temporal data resolution analysis showed that lower data resolutions reduce the predictive performance of the model and at least fortnightly data are required to satisfactorily capture the trend of variability of the shoreline position at this beach.

The use of ensemble predictions, derived from a selected subset of model trials based on their collective performance, proved beneficial by capturing diverse temporal behaviours, thereby offering a quasi-probabilistic forecast with minimal computational cost. Overall, the study underscores the potential of DL models, particularly with autoregressive architectures, for reliable and transferable shoreline change prediction. It also emphasizes the importance of data quality, resolution, and preprocessing in improving model robustness, laying the groundwork for future research into use of DL in multi-scale shoreline predictions.

海岸线变化的准确预测对于有效的沿海规划和管理至关重要，特别是在气候变化日益增加的情况下。本研究探讨了深度学习（DL）技术，特别是长短期记忆（LSTM）和卷积神经网络-LSTM （CNN-LSTM）模型，在直接输入（DI）和自回归（AR）两种建模方法下，对月至年际时间尺度的海岸线预测的适用性。所有模型都显示出再现时间海岸线变化的能力，而自回归DL模型表现得更好。此外，噪声影响评估表明，季节分解和噪声滤波显著提高了模型的性能。特别是采用52周数据分解和残差降噪的模型，提高了模型的性能。数据噪声的降低也导致集合预测包络更窄，表明集合候选模型表现出较低的多样性。时间数据分辨率分析表明，较低的数据分辨率降低了模型的预测性能，至少需要两周的数据才能令人满意地捕捉到该海滩岸线位置的变化趋势。集合预测的使用是基于模型试验的集体表现，通过捕获不同的时间行为，从而以最小的计算成本提供准概率预测，证明是有益的。总的来说，该研究强调了DL模型的潜力，特别是具有自回归架构的模型，用于可靠和可转移的海岸线变化预测。它还强调了数据质量、分辨率和预处理在提高模型鲁棒性方面的重要性，为未来在多尺度海岸线预测中使用深度学习的研究奠定了基础。

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引用次数: 0

Energetics analysis of solitary waves using a multi-layer model 用多层模型分析孤立波的能量学

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-08-30 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104868

Hunter Boswell , Frank D. Han , Guirong Yan , Wouter Mostert

This study investigates the performance of a vertically-Lagrangian multi-layer model on numerically simulating shoaling and breaking two-dimensional solitary waves during both the breaking and post-breaking processes. The energy dissipation of the breaking event for the multi-layer waves is analyzed and compared to prior direct numerical simulation work with the same bathymetric and wave cases. It shows very similar data collapse to shallow-water inertial theory. For post-breaking behavior, bore characteristics are compared to an experimental study of bores formed from breaking solitary waves and similar results are found. While the multi-layer method was not found to behave sufficiently well for direct force measurement at a vertical wall, the resulting bore characteristic behavior is found to be sufficient for use in theoretical estimations of the impact force on the wall. These findings in this study suggest that vertically-Lagrangian multilayer models resolve propagating bores sufficiently well when trying to estimate dynamic loads on vertical seawalls with minimal model tuning.

本文研究了垂直拉格朗日多层模型对二维孤立波在破碎过程和破碎后的浅化和破碎过程的数值模拟性能。分析了多层波浪破碎事件的能量耗散，并与前人在相同水深和波浪情况下的直接数值模拟结果进行了比较。它显示了与浅水惯性理论非常相似的数据崩溃。对于破碎后的行为，将孔的特征与破碎孤立波形成的孔的实验研究进行了比较，发现了相似的结果。虽然多层方法不能很好地用于垂直壁面的直接力测量，但由此产生的孔特性行为足以用于对壁面冲击力的理论估计。本研究的这些发现表明，当试图估计垂直海堤上的动态载荷时，垂直拉格朗日多层模型可以很好地解决传播钻孔的问题，只需最小的模型调整。

引用次数: 0

Turbulent field beneath monochromatic waves subjected to varying wind conditions 受不同风况影响的单色波下的湍流场

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-09-23 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104879

Fabio Addona, Luca Chiapponi

Wind-wave interaction affects momentum, energy, and chemicals transfer at the air–water interface. In this study, we report on the turbulent flow field beneath laboratory monochromatic waves subjected to different wind speeds and direction (following or opposing). The flow field is decomposed into three main components: a mean, a swell-induced, and a fluctuating term, the latter including the effects of wind-induced ripples and turbulence. After a brief survey on the mean and wave-induced fields, we focus our attention on the fluctuating-turbulence field. Our results show that the turbulent stresses increase with increasing water friction, and that the condition of wind opposing the swell results in enhanced momentum transfer at deeper water levels. The distribution of fluctuating kinetic energy (TKE) along the swell phase indicates a maximum at the trough, which was addressed to the kinematics of the free surface by previous researchers. Furthermore, we investigate all the terms in the 2D energy equations that contribute to the TKE production by assuming that waves propagate with a rigid translation. A close look to the TKE budget suggests positive production of TKE on the leeside before the trough for all wind conditions, with destruction of TKE windwards for wind following the swell, possibly due to a sheltering effect. For opposing wind, however, positive production is almost ubiquitous along the swell phase, and this would justify larger mean TKE production for that particular condition. These findings are discussed to address possible causes; the phase-dependent behavior of TKE budgets are attributed to the combined action of swell-induced acceleration, wind shear on the crest, the stochastic phase offsets of the wind waves, and microscale breaking. A quadrant analysis highlights the main direction of momentum transfer and helps the individuation of the bursts, i.e., of strong events that support high momentum transfer. As expected, the net momentum transfer due to the fluctuating components is from air to water, with conditional averages (i.e., the quadrant map of the fluctuating velocities) confirming that finding. Finally, the analysis of the fluctuating principal stresses tensor reports that anisotropy increases for increasing water friction, although the system tends to isotropic conditions immediately below the air–water interface. For wind following the swell, the principal axes approaches the free surface with an angle

- π / 4

, which is typical when a shear current is dominant near the surface. Important implications of these findings include the availability of further data to improve wave forecasting and prediction of swell and wind conditions.

风波的相互作用影响着空气-水界面的动量、能量和化学物质的传递。在这项研究中，我们报告了实验室单色波下的湍流流场在不同的风速和方向（顺或反）下。流场被分解为三个主要部分：平均项、膨胀项和波动项，后者包括风致波纹和湍流的影响。在简要介绍了平均场和波动场之后，我们将注意力集中在波动湍流场上。我们的研究结果表明，湍流应力随着水摩擦力的增加而增加，并且在较深的水位处，风与膨胀相反的条件导致动量传递增强。波动动能（TKE）沿膨胀阶段的分布表明在槽处最大，这是前人对自由表面运动学的研究。此外，我们通过假设波以刚性平移传播来研究二维能量方程中有助于TKE产生的所有项。仔细观察TKE预算表明，在所有风况下，在槽前的背风面产生的TKE都是正的，随着风的膨胀，TKE风向被破坏，可能是由于遮蔽效应。然而，对于逆风，在膨胀阶段几乎无处不在的正产量，这将证明在特定条件下更大的平均TKE产量是合理的。讨论这些发现，以解决可能的原因；TKE收支的相位依赖行为归因于膨胀引起的加速度、波峰上的风切变、风波的随机相位偏移和微尺度破碎的共同作用。象限分析突出了动量转移的主要方向，并有助于爆发的个性化，即支持高动量转移的强事件。正如预期的那样，由于波动分量造成的净动量转移是从空气到水，条件平均（即波动速度的象限图）证实了这一发现。最后，对波动主应力张量的分析表明，各向异性随着水摩擦的增加而增加，尽管系统在空气-水界面以下趋于各向同性。对于跟随膨胀的风，主轴以−π/4的角度接近自由表面，这是在表面附近剪切流占主导地位时的典型特征。这些发现的重要意义包括提供进一步的数据，以改进海浪预报和对涌浪和风况的预测。

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引用次数: 0

Remote sensing techniques for exploring waterline influence on shoreline stability in Northwest Ireland 探索爱尔兰西北部水线对海岸线稳定性影响的遥感技术

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-07-25 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104843

Khurram Riaz , Marion McAfee , Simone Simeone , Salem Gharbia

Coastal erosion is a global environmental challenge affecting biodiversity, infrastructure, and livelihoods. Remote sensing techniques have improved coastal monitoring, yet many studies focus solely on a single shoreline proxy and neglect the influence of extreme waterlines. This study introduces an integrated methodology that concurrently analyses high waterline (HWL) and low waterline (LWL) positions alongside shoreline (SL) trends, providing a more comprehensive view of coastal dynamics. Applied to three morphologically distinct beaches in northwest Ireland (ranging from dissipative to reflective profiles) over 25 years, this approach reveals how extreme tidal excursions modulate long-term shoreline stability. By simultaneously plotting HWL, LWL, and SL positions, the method identifies hotspot areas where large tidal ranges coincide with notable shoreline movements, highlighting sections prone to erosion or rapid sediment turnover. The results show that the two sites with broader, dissipative morphologies exhibit relatively stable or accreting shorelines under consistent extreme waterline trends, whereas the narrower, more reflective beach displays pronounced variability with the greatest landward shoreline retreats. Seasonal analysis further indicates that winter extreme waterlines lie significantly closer to the backshore baseline than in summer, signalling heightened erosion risk during storm seasons. This novel HWL/LWL-integrated approach yields a more accurate representation of coastal processes across different beach types and provides valuable information for coastal management, improving the prediction of erosion hotspots and informing adaptive strategies.

海岸侵蚀是影响生物多样性、基础设施和生计的全球性环境挑战。遥感技术改善了海岸监测，但许多研究只关注单一的海岸线代理，而忽视了极端水线的影响。本研究引入了一种综合方法，同时分析高水线（HWL）和低水线（LWL）位置与海岸线（SL）趋势，提供更全面的沿海动态视图。应用于爱尔兰西北部三个形态不同的海滩（从耗散到反射剖面）超过25年，该方法揭示了极端潮汐漂移如何调节长期海岸线稳定性。通过同时绘制HWL、LWL和SL位置，该方法确定了大潮差与显著海岸线运动重合的热点区域，突出了容易发生侵蚀或沉积物快速翻转的区域。结果表明，在一致的极端水线趋势下，具有较宽、耗散形态的两个地点的海岸线相对稳定或增加，而较窄、反射性更强的海滩则表现出明显的变异性，海岸线向陆地退缩最大。季节分析进一步表明，冬季极端水线明显比夏季更接近后海岸基线，表明风暴季节侵蚀风险增加。这种新颖的HWL/ lwl集成方法可以更准确地表示不同海滩类型的海岸过程，并为海岸管理提供有价值的信息，改进侵蚀热点的预测并为适应策略提供信息。

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引用次数: 0

Quantifying overwash in a laboratory experimental analysis using bichromatic waves 用双色波定量实验室实验分析中的过洗

IF 4.5 2区工程技术 Q1 ENGINEERING, CIVIL

Coastal Engineering

Pub Date : 2026-01-15 Epub Date: 2025-09-02 DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104869

Jana Echave Lezcano, Colin Whittaker, Giovanni Coco

Overwash influences dune resilience and sediment transport, yet the physical parameters governing this process remain poorly understood due to complex hydrodynamic and morphodynamic interactions. This study investigates how broad and narrow-band wave groups and water level variations govern the feedback between overwash dynamics and dune morphological response. Three overwash scenarios were identified: (1) early-stage overwash, where the system begins in overwash and transitions to collision; (2) intermittent overwash; and (3) persistent overwash, characterised by stronger onshore sediment transport.

Results indicate that small initial water level variations (

<

4% of the water depth) can significantly influence overwash intensity and frequency, with the highest tested water level (0.775 m) producing the most persistent overwash conditions. Longer wave groups enhance overwash initiation by maintaining elevated infragravity swash across successive waves, increasing the likelihood of crest exceedance. In contrast, shorter groups generate more frequent individual runup events that interact with the dune, increasing overwash occurrences. However, under high water levels, wave group effects become secondary.

The Overwash Potential (OP) metric is assessed as an indicator of overwash occurrence. Findings show that threshold values between collision and overwash are scale-dependent, requiring calibration to reflect dune freeboard effects accurately. Additionally, OP estimation is highly sensitive to the beach slope definition; using a non-representative slope can underestimate OP exceedance, overwash frequency, and severity.

Future laboratory studies should treat water level as a key design parameter and incorporate long-term morphological feedback and field-scale validation. These steps will improve predictive model accuracy and inform the development of effective coastal resilience strategies under extreme conditions.

冲过影响沙丘恢复力和沉积物输运，但由于复杂的水动力和形态动力相互作用，控制这一过程的物理参数仍然知之甚少。本研究探讨了宽、窄带波群和水位变化如何控制冲积动力和沙丘形态响应之间的反馈。确定了三种过冲情景：(1)早期过冲，系统从过冲开始过渡到碰撞；(2)间歇过洗；(3)持续的冲过，以更强的陆上沉积物输送为特征。结果表明，较小的初始水位变化（<；4%的水深）可以显著影响过冲强度和频率，最高测试水位（0.775 m）产生的过冲条件最持久。较长的波群通过在连续的波之间保持较高的次重力冲刷，增加了波峰超越的可能性，从而增强了过冲的开始。相比之下，较短的群体会产生更频繁的个体上升事件，与沙丘相互作用，增加溢水的发生。然而，在高水位下，波群效应是次要的。过冲电位（OP）指标被评估为过冲发生的一个指标。研究结果表明，碰撞和冲过之间的阈值与尺度有关，需要校准才能准确反映沙丘干舷效应。此外，OP估计对海滩坡度定义高度敏感；使用非代表性斜率可能会低估OP超标、过洗频率和严重程度。未来的实验室研究应将水位作为关键的设计参数，并结合长期的形态反馈和现场规模验证。这些步骤将提高预测模型的准确性，并为在极端条件下制定有效的沿海恢复策略提供信息。

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引用次数: 0