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Impact of storm-induced morphological changes on extreme wave runup and overtopping of sandy beaches and dunes 风暴引起的形态变化对沙滩和沙丘极端浪涌和漫顶的影响
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-12-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102671
Mohammad Jamous, Reza Marsooli
Extreme wave runup and overwash are among the most common natural hazards that threaten coastal regions by causing severe erosion and flooding. Sea level rise is expected to exacerbate these hazards, as deeper water allows for more energetic waves to reach shorelines. Physics-based modeling is a robust approach for quantifying these extreme wave hazards, yet it remains a challenging task due to the presence of various coupled physical processes, including rapid morphological changes and their effects on hydrodynamics and waves. In this work, we propose a modeling framework to simulate erosion, runup, and overwash of sandy beach-dune systems during extreme wave events while accounting for the effects of morphological changes. The framework consists of a hierarchy of hydrodynamic (XBeach-Non-Hydrostatic), morphodynamic (XBeach-Surfbeat), and spectral wave and ocean circulation models (ADCIRC+SWAN) that simulate total water levels, frequency-direction wave spectrum, morphological changes of beach-dune systems, and runup and overwash of individual waves. The framework is applied to Hurricane Sandy to simulate wave hazards at beach-dune systems on the Barrier Islands of New Jersey in the U.S. To demonstrate the importance of morphological changes on wave hazards, we perform simulations under various scenarios of sea level rise. We find that excluding morphological changes results in wave overwash volumes being overestimated at dunes that are not severely eroded during the storm, while underestimated at dunes that are severely eroded. Besides the effects of morphological changes, the results also show a substantial shift in storm impact regimes under future sea level rise scenarios.
极端浪涌和冲过是最常见的自然灾害,它们会造成严重的侵蚀和洪水,威胁沿海地区。海平面上升预计会加剧这些危险,因为更深的水允许更强的海浪到达海岸线。基于物理的建模是量化这些极端波浪危害的强大方法,但由于各种耦合物理过程的存在,包括快速形态变化及其对水动力学和波浪的影响,它仍然是一项具有挑战性的任务。在这项工作中,我们提出了一个建模框架来模拟极端波浪事件期间沙滩-沙丘系统的侵蚀、冲刷和冲过,同时考虑形态变化的影响。该框架由水动力(XBeach-Non-Hydrostatic)、形态动力(XBeach-Surfbeat)和频谱波浪和海洋环流模型(ADCIRC+SWAN)组成,这些模型模拟了总水位、频率-方向波浪谱、海滩-沙丘系统的形态变化以及单个波浪的上升和冲过。将该框架应用于飓风桑迪,模拟美国新泽西州堰洲岛海滩-沙丘系统的波浪危害。为了证明形态变化对波浪危害的重要性,我们在各种海平面上升情景下进行了模拟。我们发现,排除形态变化会导致风暴期间侵蚀不严重的沙丘的波浪冲过量被高估,而严重侵蚀的沙丘的波浪冲过量被低估。除了形态变化的影响外,研究结果还表明,在未来海平面上升的情景下,风暴影响机制也会发生实质性的变化。
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引用次数: 0
Tsunami data assimilation and forecast in the Kii Channel using high-frequency radar: Bathymetry effects on the propagation of measurement errors 利用高频雷达同化和预报Kii海峡的海啸资料:测深对测量误差传播的影响
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-11-05 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102651
Muhammad Irham Sahana , Ryotaro Fuji , Hirofumi Hinata
High-frequency (HF) radar has become a promising tool for tsunami forecasting based on assimilation of surface current data. However, the accuracy of HF radar-derived velocity vectors is affected by multiple error sources, including sea surface conditions, ionospheric disturbances, human activities, and inherent measurement errors associated with the beam-crossing angles. If not properly accounted for, these errors can degrade the tsunami forecast accuracy. This study explored the influence of realistic bathymetry on the propagation and amplification of noise-induced (measurement error-induced) tsunamis. These tsunamis caused localized variations in the assimilated and forecasted tsunami heights, particularly through refraction and shoaling. Measurement error assimilation with energy ray tracing has significant implications for tsunami early warning systems: it helps identify regions likely to undergo noise-induced tsunamis originating from radar coverage. By incorporating beam-angle-dependent measurement errors into the optimal interpolation method and considering actual bathymetry, we achieved stable and accurate tsunami forecasts for the Mw 9.0 Nankai Trough earthquake scenario. The method predicted maximum coastal tsunami heights 23–78 min before they arrived at Osaka Bay, with 92 % forecast accuracy and 0.8 % standard deviation across 15 experiments. In addition, careful tuning of the optimal characteristic length (L) in relation to tsunami velocities and observation errors was found to be crucial for balancing the suppression of noise-induced tsunamis and retention of tsunami signals. Both excessively small and large values of L degraded the performance, underscoring the importance of dynamic tuning for operational systems. Future research should focus on optimizing the assimilation parameters by monitoring the measurement error status.
高频(HF)雷达已成为一种很有前途的基于表面流资料同化的海啸预报工具。然而,高频雷达速度矢量的精度受到多种误差源的影响,包括海面条件、电离层干扰、人类活动以及与波束穿越角相关的固有测量误差。如果不加以适当的考虑,这些误差会降低海啸预报的准确性。本研究探讨了现实测深对噪声(测量误差)海啸传播和放大的影响。这些海啸引起了同化和预测海啸高度的局部变化,特别是通过折射和浅滩作用。利用能量射线追踪的测量误差同化对海啸预警系统具有重要意义:它有助于确定雷达覆盖范围内可能发生由噪声引起的海啸的区域。通过将波束角相关测量误差纳入最优插值方法,并结合实际测深,实现了Mw 9.0南开海槽地震情景下稳定、准确的海啸预报。该方法在海啸到达大阪湾前23-78分钟预测了最大海岸海啸高度,15次实验的预测精度为92%,标准偏差为0.8%。此外,仔细调整与海啸速度和观测误差相关的最佳特征长度(L)对于平衡噪声引起的海啸的抑制和海啸信号的保留至关重要。L的值过小或过大都会降低性能,这强调了动态调优对操作系统的重要性。未来的研究应着眼于通过监测测量误差状态来优化同化参数。
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引用次数: 0
Internal solitary waves with different density distribution approximation schemes in background shear currents 背景剪切流中不同密度分布近似格式的内孤立波
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-10-30 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102644
Zhuoyue Li , Haibao Hu , Chen Chen , Zhan Wang , Zhongliang Xie , Peng Du
The density distribution scheme determines the characteristics of internal solitary waves (ISWs). Based on three typical density distributions, ISWs are modeled in two-layer, three-layer, and continuous-density systems, while also considering the effect of background shear currents. ISWs are generated using high-level Green–Naghdi (HLGN) and Dubreil-Jacotin-Long (DJL) theories, which serve as initial conditions for the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) flume. In all systems, linear background shear currents can significantly affect the ISW properties, such as wave profiles, induced velocity, propagation speed, and energy distribution. Positive-vorticity background shear currents pycnocline thinning, whereas negative-vorticity currents result in thickening. The ISW shear strength is evaluated by the average rate of change of horizontal velocity at the pycnocline. In the two-layer system, positive-vorticity currents reduce the ISW shear effect, whereas the opposite occurs with negative-vorticity currents. The conclusions for the three-layer and continuous-density systems are in contrast to those of the two-layer system. This indicates that consideration or neglect of the pycnocline thickness may lead to opposite conclusions regarding the effects of background shear currents on the ISW shear effect. Furthermore, the influence of the nonlinear background shear currents is discussed. For most properties, the effects of nonlinear currents are consistent with those of linear currents, although they are generally weak.
密度分布方案决定了内孤立波的特性。在三种典型密度分布的基础上,分别建立了两层、三层和连续密度系统的isw模型,同时考虑了背景剪切流的影响。isw是利用高阶Green-Naghdi (HLGN)和Dubreil-Jacotin-Long (DJL)理论生成的,它们是计算流体动力学(CFD)水槽的初始条件。在所有系统中,线性背景剪切流都会显著影响ISW特性,如波廓线、感应速度、传播速度和能量分布。正涡度背景切变流导致斜斜变薄,而负涡度背景切变流导致增厚。ISW抗剪强度由斜斜处水平速度的平均变化率来计算。在两层体系中,正涡度流降低了ISW剪切效应,而负涡度流则相反。三层连续密度系统的结论与两层系统的结论相反。这表明,对于背景剪切流对ISW剪切效应的影响,考虑或忽略斜斜厚度可能会得出相反的结论。进一步讨论了非线性背景剪切流的影响。对于大多数特性,非线性电流的影响与线性电流的影响是一致的,尽管它们通常很弱。
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引用次数: 0
DB-SICNet: A dual-branch model for predicting Arctic sea ice concentration DB-SICNet:预测北极海冰浓度的双分支模式
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-12-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102658
Ling Tan , Jinlong Xu , Wei Zhang , Wenjia Chen , Jingming Xia
In the context of global climate warming, the changes in Arctic sea ice have garnered significant attention. Traditional models face challenges in predicting sea ice concentration (SIC) due to the complexity and interdependence of meteorological factors, which make it difficult to quantify their impacts on sea ice variability. Temporal dynamics of sea ice concentration changes are underutilized, while the limitations of single-model predictions worsen the issue. To address these challenges, this paper proposes a novel dual-branch Arctic sea ice concentration forecasting method, called DB-SICNet. This method integrates OSI-SAF sea ice data and ERA5 meteorological data, employing a multi-scale feature fusion module to extract key features from the meteorological factors. A dynamic temporal weighting mechanism captures periodic variation patterns by assigning weights to data points over time, and the model combines ConvLSTM and UNet in a dual-branch integrate to improve prediction accuracy. Comprehensive experimental evaluations demonstrate that, compared to popular models such as CMIP6 and IceNet, DB-SICNet provides more accurate forecasts of Arctic sea ice coverage for the upcoming month. The study also employs DeepLIFT attribution analysis to identify the critical role of sea surface temperature in the prediction of SIC. The findings of this research can offer robust support for navigation planning and sea ice-related applications in the Arctic region.
在全球气候变暖的背景下,北极海冰的变化引起了人们的极大关注。由于气象因子的复杂性和相互依赖性,传统模式在预测海冰浓度方面面临挑战,难以量化其对海冰变率的影响。海冰浓度变化的时间动态未得到充分利用,而单一模式预测的局限性使这一问题更加严重。为了解决这些挑战,本文提出了一种新的双分支北极海冰浓度预测方法,称为DB-SICNet。该方法将OSI-SAF海冰数据与ERA5气象数据相结合,采用多尺度特征融合模块从气象要素中提取关键特征。该模型采用动态时间加权机制,通过为数据点分配权重来捕获周期性变化模式,并将ConvLSTM和UNet结合在双分支集成中,以提高预测精度。综合实验评估表明,与CMIP6和IceNet等流行模式相比,DB-SICNet对未来一个月的北极海冰覆盖率提供了更准确的预测。利用DeepLIFT归因分析,确定了海表温度在SIC预测中的关键作用。本研究结果可为北极地区的导航规划和海冰相关应用提供强有力的支持。
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引用次数: 0
Exploring the tsunami generation potential of major faults in the sicilian channel using 3D numerical modeling 利用三维数值模拟探讨西西里海峡主要断层的海啸发生潜力
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-09-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102625
FX Anjar Tri Laksono , Manoranjan Mishra , Fadlin , János Kovács
The Sicilian Channel, part of the central Mediterranean Sea, contains several active fault systems capable of generating tsunamis. Although historical evidence of major tsunami events exists in the region, few numerical studies have explored tsunami generation and coastal impact scenarios associated with these fault zones. This study employs 3D hydrodynamic modelling using Delft3D to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and inundation resulting from three primary fault structures: the Gela Nappe Thrust Fault (GNTF), the Sciacca Strike-Slip Fault, and the Malta Graben Normal Fault (MGNF). The simulations indicate that tsunami wave heights along the southern coast of Sicily may reach up to 6 m, with inundation distances ranging from 23 to 144 m, depending on fault parameters and local bathymetric/topographic settings. These findings underscore the critical influence of regional bathymetry and fault source mechanisms in shaping tsunami behavior in semi-enclosed basins like the Sicilian Channel. This work contributes to the understanding of wave dynamics and coastal response in tectonically active marine environments, offering valuable insights for tsunami hazard assessment and early warning system planning.
西西里海峡是地中海中部的一部分,包含几个能够产生海啸的活跃断层系统。虽然该地区存在重大海啸事件的历史证据,但很少有数值研究探讨与这些断裂带相关的海啸发生和海岸影响情景。本研究利用Delft3D三维流体动力学模型,模拟了三个主要断层结构:杰拉推覆逆冲断层(GNTF)、夏卡走滑断层和马耳他地陷正断层(MGNF)造成的海啸的产生、传播和淹没。模拟表明,西西里岛南部海岸的海啸波高可能高达6米,淹没距离在23至144米之间,具体取决于断层参数和当地的水深/地形设置。这些发现强调了区域测深和断层源机制在塑造像西西里海峡这样的半封闭盆地的海啸行为方面的关键影响。这项工作有助于理解构造活跃的海洋环境中的波浪动力学和海岸反应,为海啸危害评估和早期预警系统规划提供有价值的见解。
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引用次数: 0
Assessing the effects of sea level rise on ocean waves and surge events along the victorian coast 评估海平面上升对维多利亚海岸的海浪和浪涌事件的影响
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-11-14 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102653
Rui Li , Huy Quang Tran , Jak McCarroll , Alexander V. Babanin
This study investigates nonlinear surges and extreme wind-wave patterns off the coast of Victoria by simulating sea level rise (SLR) scenarios of 0.5, 0.8, 1.0 and 1.4 meters alongside a 31-year hindcast (1990–2020) using the validated SCHISM-WWMIII coupled wave-circulation model. Model simulations were compared with observational data, confirming the accuracy of the results. Our findings indicate that sea levels along the Victorian coast have been rising at a rate of 1.46 × 102 cm/year, while wave heights in the Southern Ocean have also increased over time. However, the rate of wave height increase is lower along the Victorian coast compared to the Southern Ocean. Due to island blocking, mean wave heights in Bass Strait remain lower than those in the Southern Ocean, yet extreme water levels in the strait exceed those in the open ocean. The impact of SLR is most pronounced in the waters south of Tasmania, where maximum elevations exceed 1.2 meters under the 1.0-meter SLR scenario. SLR contributes to higher mean water levels and increased wave heights off the coast of Victoria, underscoring the complex interactions between rising sea levels and coastal wave dynamics. Wave direction and peak period were also examined, but their changes under SLR scenarios were found to be minimal. These findings highlight the importance of incorporating both SLR and wave dynamics into coastal hazard assessments to better understand future risks.
本研究利用经验证的schistic - wwmiii波浪环流耦合模式,模拟了1990-2020年31年的海平面上升(SLR)情景(0.5、0.8、1.0和1.4米),研究了维多利亚海岸的非线性涌浪和极端风浪模式。将模型模拟结果与观测数据进行了比较,证实了结果的准确性。我们的研究结果表明,维多利亚海岸的海平面一直在以每年1.46 × 10⁻2厘米的速度上升,而南大洋的海浪高度也随着时间的推移而增加。然而,与南大洋相比,维多利亚海岸的浪高增长率较低。由于岛屿阻塞,巴斯海峡的平均波高仍然低于南大洋,但海峡的极端水位超过了公海。单反的影响在塔斯马尼亚岛以南的水域最为明显,在1.0米单反的情况下,那里的最大海拔超过1.2米。SLR导致了维多利亚海岸平均水位的上升和浪高的增加,强调了海平面上升和海岸波浪动力学之间复杂的相互作用。波浪方向和峰值周期也进行了研究,但发现它们在单反情景下的变化很小。这些发现强调了将SLR和波浪动力学结合到海岸危害评估中的重要性,以更好地了解未来的风险。
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引用次数: 0
Global wave model performance in the vicinity of the Monterey Bay, California 加州蒙特利湾附近全球波浪模式的表现
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-10-30 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102645
Agustinus Ribal , Brian K. Haus , Stefan Zieger , Milan Curcic
Accurate wave modeling is crucial for coastal management, navigation, and marine safety, particularly in complex coastal environments like Monterey Bay. Here, we investigated the performance of a global wave model, specifically the third-generation WAVEWATCH III model, downscaled to Monterey Bay, California, over a two-year period. We employed two different source term packages, namely ST4 and ST6, for wind input. Four distinct grids were generated, with three of them being regular grids and one being unstructured. A two-way nesting approach was applied for three grids, with resolutions in the latitude of 0.5°, 0.2°, and 0.05°, respectively. The fourth grid is unstructured, with maximum and minimum resolutions of 2 km and 0.15 km, respectively. Boundary conditions for the unstructured grids were obtained from the two-way nesting grids. Additionally, the model was forced by CFSv2 wind data with resolutions of 0.2°. This study focuses on the highest-resolution model, which utilizes an unstructured grid. Significant wave heights were validated against data from five NDBC buoys, six CDIP buoys, 22 CLASI buoy locations, eight spotter buoys, and altimeter data. Across all 41 buoy locations and altimeter data, the model exhibits excellent agreement with the measurements in terms of statistical properties. Furthermore, we observed that ST4 outperformed ST6 in terms of scatter index and Pearson’s correlation coefficient, while ST6 exhibited lower RMSE and bias. Regarding computational time, it was found that ST4 runs 25 % slower than ST6. In addition to significant wave height, wind sea, and swell were also compared based on one-dimensional wave spectra. Eleven buoys were used to validate the swell, with both ST4 and ST6 showing similar statistical performance for wind sea while ST6 should be used in swell conditions because it runs faster and gives better results.
准确的波浪建模对海岸管理、导航和海洋安全至关重要,尤其是在像蒙特利湾这样复杂的沿海环境中。在这里,我们调查了全球波浪模型的性能,特别是第三代WAVEWATCH III模型,缩小到加利福尼亚州蒙特利湾,为期两年。对于风输入,我们使用了两个不同的源项包,即ST4和ST6。生成了四个不同的网格,其中三个是规则网格,一个是非结构化网格。对纬度分别为0.5°、0.2°和0.05°的三个网格采用双向嵌套方法。第四个网格是非结构化的,最大和最小分辨率分别为2公里和0.15公里。由双向嵌套网格得到非结构化网格的边界条件。此外,模型是由分辨率为0.2°的CFSv2风资料强迫的。本研究的重点是采用非结构化网格的最高分辨率模型。根据5个NDBC浮标、6个CDIP浮标、22个CLASI浮标位置、8个观测浮标和高度计数据验证了显著波高。在所有41个浮标位置和高度计数据中,该模型在统计特性方面与测量结果非常吻合。此外,我们观察到ST4在散点指数和Pearson相关系数方面优于ST6,而ST6的RMSE和偏差更低。在计算时间方面,发现ST4比ST6慢25%。除了显著的波高外,还比较了基于一维波浪谱的风海和涌浪。我们使用了11个浮标来验证涌浪,ST4和ST6在风浪条件下的统计性能相似,而ST6应该在涌浪条件下使用,因为它运行更快,结果更好。
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引用次数: 0
Three-dimensional spatiotemporal simulation of tritium discharge from Fukushima 福岛氚排放的三维时空模拟
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2026-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-11-03 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102652
Yi Liu , Zhen-Zhong Hu , Robert H. Richmond , Jian-Min Zhang , Chang Zhao , Shengli Chen
The ALPS treated water has been discharged into the Pacific Ocean since August 2023. This study investigates this discharge using a newly developed three-dimensional dispersion model that incorporates migration, diffusion, and decay processes of radionuclides. A simulation over ten years is conducted using reanalyzed oceanographic data. The results indicate that tritium released from Fukushima primarily disperses eastward along the 35°N latitude line. In later stages, local concentration peaks emerge in the northeastern Pacific, exceeding those in the northwest Pacific. For the vertical distribution, the tritium is generally reduced greatly with depth, but displays maximum values at subsurface layer (∼50m) in some regions. The concentration reaches a steady state over time, defined as the characteristic concentration, whose spatial distribution and attainment time are detailed. For major fishing grounds in the Pacific Ocean, the Hokkaido area shows the highest tritium levels, followed by Hawaii, California, Zhoushan, the Korean Peninsula, Mexico, the Philippines, Alaska, and Peru in descending order. Critically, simulated tritium concentrations in most North Pacific regions (∼0.01 Bq/m3) remain orders of magnitude below natural background levels (∼50 Bq/m3). This research elucidates three-dimensional radionuclide dispersion mechanisms in global oceans, providing a quantitative methodology for future marine emergency response and contributing to long-term marine conservation efforts.
自2023年8月以来,阿尔卑斯山处理过的水被排放到太平洋。本研究使用一个新开发的三维色散模型来研究这种放电,该模型包含了放射性核素的迁移、扩散和衰变过程。利用重新分析的海洋学资料进行了为期十年的模拟。结果表明,福岛核泄漏的氚主要沿北纬35°向东扩散。在后期,局部浓度高峰出现在东北太平洋,超过西北太平洋。在垂直分布上,氚一般随深度的增加而大幅度减少,但在某些区域在近地表(~ 50m)处达到最大值。浓度随时间达到稳定状态,定义为特征浓度,详细描述了其空间分布和达到时间。在太平洋的主要渔场中,氚含量最高的是北海道地区,依次为夏威夷、加利福尼亚、舟山、朝鲜半岛、墨西哥、菲律宾、阿拉斯加、秘鲁。重要的是,大多数北太平洋地区的模拟氚浓度(~ 0.01 Bq/m3)仍然比自然背景水平(~ 50 Bq/m3)低几个数量级。这项研究阐明了全球海洋中的三维放射性核素扩散机制,为未来的海洋应急反应提供了定量方法,并有助于长期的海洋保护工作。
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引用次数: 0
The role of driving forces in sediment transport processes in an upwelling-driven continental shelf 上升流驱动的大陆架沉积物输运过程中驱动力的作用
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2025-12-01 Epub Date: 2025-08-21 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102620
Marili Viitak , Rita Nolasco , Nicolás Villacieros-Robineau , Paulo A. Silva , Carmen G. Castro , Jesús Dubert
Sediment transport in the continental shelf regions affects many interdisciplinary problems, including ecological and social issues. Understanding the underlying processes influencing sediment transport is essential for coastal management, distribution of nutrients, pollutants and abundance of benthic flora and fauna, which can impact the entire food chain in the marine ecosystem. The present work aims to enhance our understanding of the spatial and temporal variability of sediment transport in the upwelling affected continental shelves. A state-of-the-art 3D oceanic numerical model CROCO (v1.0) was used to simulate the suspended sediment transport on NW Iberian Peninsula continental shelf, considering an entire annual cycle from November 2008 to December 2009. The sediment transport patterns were influenced by the seasonality of the shelf current and wave dynamics. While low sediment movement was observed during spring and summer, considerable transport could be seen from mid-autumn and winter, associated with storms. The shelf circulation, mainly driven in response to atmospheric forcing, determined the transport direction, while wave energy regulated the re-suspended sediment mass. Storm-driven upwelling and downwelling events predominantly promoted sediment transport southward and northward through the bottom boundary layer, respectively. The morphological features of the shelf and the frontal dynamics between the oceanic and fresh water in the mid-and inner shelf, modulated by upwelling and downwelling, shaped the suspended sediment transport across and along the water column. In the northern region of the study area, the simulated shelf-scale near-bottom eddies induced transport pathways to the open ocean.
大陆架区域的泥沙运移影响着许多跨学科的问题,包括生态和社会问题。了解影响沉积物运输的潜在过程对于沿海管理、营养物分布、污染物和底栖动植物丰富度至关重要,这可能影响海洋生态系统中的整个食物链。本研究旨在提高我们对受上升流影响的大陆架沉积物输运时空变异性的认识。利用三维海洋数值模型CROCO (v1.0)模拟了伊比利亚半岛西北大陆架的悬沙输运,考虑了2008年11月至2009年12月的整个年周期。沉积物输运模式受陆架洋流和波浪动力的季节性影响。春季和夏季沉积物运动较少,而秋季和冬季则出现了大量与风暴有关的输沙。主要受大气强迫驱动的陆架环流决定了输运方向,波能调节了再悬质。风暴驱动的上升流和下升流事件主要促进沉积物分别通过底部边界层向南和向北运移。陆架的形态特征以及陆架中部和内部海洋与淡水的锋面动力学,在上升流和下升流的调节下,决定了悬浮物在水柱上和水柱上的运移。在研究区北部,模拟的陆架尺度近底涡流诱导了向公海的运输路径。
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引用次数: 0
Real-time wave model error correction via coupled neural networks and WAM under extreme weather 极端天气下基于耦合神经网络和WAM的实时波模型误差校正
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES Pub Date : 2025-12-01 Epub Date: 2025-07-23 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102600
Aiyue Liu , Xiaofeng Li , Dongliang Shen
Accurate forecasts of wave parameters, especially significant wave height, are essential for maritime operations, yet predicting wave heights during extreme weather remains difficult due to rapid error growth in numerical models. This study presents a real-time error correction framework that couples a spatiotemporal attention-based neural network with the WAM wave model. The correction network is trained using CFOSAT satellite observations and dynamically coupled with WAM via a Fortran–Python interface. Applied to 114 typhoon events in the Northwest Pacific, the system reduces significant wave height (SWH) root mean square error (RMSE) by 24.6 % and increases the structural similarity index (SSIM) by 26.3 %, compared to WAM predictions made with default tuning parameters. Validation across 32 tropical cyclones with diverse intensities in the Gulf of Mexico shows strong generalization, achieving up to a 47 % reduction in RMSE and enhancing wave spectral accuracy by >30 %. These results highlight the robustness and scalability of this hybrid AI-physics framework, demonstrating its practical value for real-time wave forecasting during extreme weather events.
准确预报波浪参数,特别是重要的浪高,对海上作业至关重要,但由于数值模式的误差迅速增长,在极端天气下预测浪高仍然很困难。本研究提出了一种基于时空注意力的神经网络与WAM波模型相结合的实时纠错框架。校正网络使用CFOSAT卫星观测进行训练,并通过Fortran-Python接口与WAM动态耦合。该系统应用于西北太平洋114个台风事件,与使用默认调谐参数的WAM预测相比,有效波高(SWH)均方根误差(RMSE)降低了24.6%,结构相似指数(SSIM)提高了26.3%。对墨西哥湾32个不同强度热带气旋的验证显示出很强的泛化能力,RMSE降低了47%,波谱精度提高了30%。这些结果突出了这种混合ai -物理框架的鲁棒性和可扩展性,展示了其在极端天气事件中实时海浪预报的实用价值。
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Ocean Modelling
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