Ocean Modelling最新文献_第6页

Improving multi-variable wave forecasting with AI: Integrating LSTM and random forest, using a window and flatten technique 用人工智能改进多变量波浪预报：结合LSTM和随机森林，利用窗口和平坦化技术

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-10-06 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102638

Nerea Portillo Juan, Mónica Ferrer Gómez-Cano, Sara Yagüe Rubio, Vicente Negro Valdecantos

Accurate wave prediction is essential for coastal and ocean engineering, as sea state conditions directly impact the design and operation of marine infrastructure, renewable energy systems, and maritime safety. While most research focuses on forecasting significant wave height (Hs) using increasingly complex models, other essential variables such as wave period (Tp) and direction (Dir) are often overlooked despite their importance in fully characterizing sea states.

This study addresses this gap by applying Artificial Intelligence (AI) models – Long Short-Term Memory (LSTM) networks and Random Forests (RF) – to predict Hs, Tp, and Dir. A novel window and flatten technique was introduced to restructure temporal data into a format suitable for machine learning, enhancing model performance for Dir and Tp predictions. Both models were tested under various wave conditions in the Mediterranean Sea

Results show that LSTM generally outperforms RF, particularly for Dir. However, RF models, which are not inherently designed for time series tasks, performed surprisingly well for Hs prediction and for short term Tp predictions. This opens promising avenues for developing hybrid models that combine sequential and non-sequential methods, potentially surpassing traditional sequence-to-sequence approaches in accuracy and robustness.

The study also highlights the challenge of accurately modelling Tp and the importance of evaluating model performance under varying energy conditions. Significant sensitivity to testing scenarios was observed, underlining the need for careful dataset selection and model validation. These findings provide a foundation for extending wave forecasting tools to more energetic environments such as the Atlantic Ocean and for advancing hybrid AI-based prediction frameworks.

准确的海浪预测对于沿海和海洋工程至关重要，因为海况条件直接影响海洋基础设施、可再生能源系统和海上安全的设计和运行。虽然大多数研究都集中在使用日益复杂的模型预测有效波高（Hs），但其他基本变量，如波浪周期（Tp）和方向（Dir），尽管它们在充分表征海况方面很重要，但往往被忽视。本研究通过应用人工智能（AI）模型-长短期记忆（LSTM）网络和随机森林(RF) -来预测Hs， Tp和Dir，从而解决了这一差距。引入了一种新的窗口和平坦技术，将时间数据重构为适合机器学习的格式，提高了Dir和Tp预测的模型性能。两种模型都在地中海的各种波浪条件下进行了测试。结果表明，LSTM总体上优于RF，特别是对于Dir。然而，RF模型本身并不是为时间序列任务而设计的，它在Hs预测和短期Tp预测中表现得出奇地好。这为开发结合序列和非序列方法的混合模型开辟了有希望的途径，有可能在准确性和鲁棒性方面超越传统的序列对序列方法。该研究还强调了准确建模Tp的挑战以及在不同能量条件下评估模型性能的重要性。观察到对测试场景的显着敏感性，强调需要仔细选择数据集和模型验证。这些发现为将海浪预报工具扩展到大西洋等能量更大的环境以及推进基于人工智能的混合预测框架提供了基础。

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引用次数: 0

Advancing multi-scale wave modeling: Global and coastal applications during the 2022 Atlantic hurricane season 推进多尺度波浪模拟：2022年大西洋飓风季节的全球和沿海应用

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-09-26 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102623

Ali Abdolali , Tyler J. Hesser , Aron Roland , Martha Schönau , David A. Honegger , Jane McKee Smith , Héloïse Michaud , Luca Centurioni

Using the six-month hurricane season of 2022 as a case study and the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III, this effort shows that wave parameters produced via a variable-resolution global mesh (5–30 km) agree with a diverse array of validating observational datasets at a level comparable to that of a constant-resolution mesh (3 km) that is six times more costly to run. The optimized variable-resolution, unstructured triangular mesh is faithful to land geometry and wave transformation gradients while relaxing focus in deeper regions where gradients are typically less pronounced. Wave parameters measured via satellite altimetry, stationary buoy networks, and drifting buoys are employed to demonstrate not only a substantial increase in performance over a coarse, constant-resolution grid (40 km), with RMSE reduced from 0.28 m to 0.14 m and Correlation Coefficient (CC) improved from 0.92 to 0.98 overall, but also a comparable level of performance to that of a mesh that has undergone a full convergence analysis. Performance comparisons isolated to shallow regions and near cyclonic storms highlight the importance of resolving relevant geometries. For nearshore data, RMSE improves from 0.29 m to 0.13 m and CC from 0.89 to 0.98; in shallow regions, RMSE from 0.29 m to 0.15 m and CC from 0.88 to 0.97; and under cyclonic conditions, RMSE from 0.62 m to 0.35 m and CC from 0.93 to 0.98. Wave model results using the variable-resolution mesh were further analyzed to provide a detailed summary of the wave climate, including wind-wave and swell partitions, over the six-month study period in the study area.

以2022年6个月的飓风季节为例研究和波谱波模型WAVEWATCH III，这项工作表明，通过变分辨率全球网格（5-30公里）产生的波浪参数与各种验证观测数据集一致，其水平与恒分辨率网格（3公里）相当，后者的运行成本高出6倍。优化后的可变分辨率、非结构化三角形网格忠实于陆地几何形状和波浪变换梯度，同时在梯度通常不太明显的较深区域放松焦点。通过卫星测高、固定浮标网络和漂流浮标测量的波浪参数不仅证明了在粗糙、恒定分辨率网格（40 km）上的性能大幅提高，RMSE从0.28 m降至0.14 m，相关系数（CC）从0.92提高到0.98，而且性能水平与经过完全收敛分析的网格相当。与浅层区域和气旋风暴附近的性能比较突出了解决相关几何形状的重要性。近岸数据RMSE从0.29 m提高到0.13 m， CC从0.89提高到0.98；浅层RMSE为0.29 ~ 0.15 m， CC为0.88 ~ 0.97；气旋条件下RMSE为0.62 ~ 0.35 m， CC为0.93 ~ 0.98。进一步分析了使用变分辨率网格的波浪模型结果，以提供研究区六个月研究期间波浪气候的详细总结，包括风浪和涌浪分区。

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引用次数: 0

The influence of tidal currents and sea ice on wave dynamics in Cook Inlet, Alaska 阿拉斯加库克湾潮汐流和海冰对波浪动力学的影响

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-09-23 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102635

Martin Henke , Zhaoqing Yang

Cook Inlet, Alaska is a unique tidal estuary with extreme tidal regimes and the presence of seasonal ice coverage. In this study, the wave dynamics of Cook Inlet are explored through analysis of in-situ wave observations and spectral wave model simulations. The analysis first assesses the wave climate from an existing dataset — showing low-energy wave conditions as a mean state for the upper and lower inlets. Following, wave observations within the inlet are analyzed to reveal modulation by tidal constituents. Finally, a region-specific, ocean circulation coupled, spectral wave model is run over a storm event with current and ice forcings present. This simulation reveals that under extreme wind conditions, large waves can exceed 2 m and 6 m in the upper and lower inlet sections. Simulations results demonstrate that increases in significant wave height up to 1 m are observed due to the effects of wave–current interaction on opposing current gradients. This analysis provides insight into how the tidal phase can amplify or diminish wave energy over large extents of the inlet and the role sea ice plays in limiting regional wave energy. These outcomes demonstrate the combined influence of environmental variables current, water levels, and ice influencing wave dynamics and stress the importance of their implementation in wave modeling frameworks where applicable.

阿拉斯加的库克湾是一个独特的潮汐口，潮汐状态极端，季节性冰层覆盖。本研究通过现场波浪观测分析和谱波模型模拟，探讨Cook Inlet的波浪动力学。该分析首先评估了现有数据集的波浪气候，将低能波条件显示为上下入口的平均状态。接下来，分析了入口内的波浪观测，以揭示潮汐成分的调制作用。最后，对存在海流和冰强迫的风暴事件运行一个特定区域的、海洋环流耦合的谱波模式。模拟结果表明，在极端风条件下，进风口上下段的大浪可以超过2 m和6 m。模拟结果表明，由于波流相互作用对反向电流梯度的影响，有效波高增加了1 m。这一分析提供了对潮汐相位如何在入口的大范围内放大或减少波浪能量以及海冰在限制区域波浪能量方面所起作用的深入了解。这些结果表明了环境变量电流、水位和冰对波浪动力学的综合影响，并强调了在适用的波浪建模框架中实施它们的重要性。

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引用次数: 0

A structure-preserving nonstaggered central scheme for shallow water equations with wet–dry fronts and Coriolis force on triangles 具有干湿锋面和三角形科里奥利力的浅水方程的保结构非交错中心格式

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-09-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102626

Jian Dong , Xu Qian , Huizan Wang

This work introduces a structure-preserving nonstaggered central scheme for the two-dimensional shallow water equations with wet–dry fronts and Coriolis force on triangular meshes. A key innovation of our approach is the development of a novel discretization method for source terms that exploits the geometric properties of the mesh within staggered cells. This method effectively overcomes the limitations of existing central schemes, which often exhibit a lack of well-balanced property in configurations that involve wet–dry fronts. In particular, the defined numerical fluxes not only utilize information from the central points but also from the vertex points. We rigorously show that the proposed numerical scheme maintains both positivity-preserving and well-balanced properties, essential attributes that ensure the physical validity and stability of the simulations. To verify our theoretical results, we conduct comprehensive numerical experiments that encompass a variety of scenarios. The results highlight the method’s exceptional performance in accurately modeling complex fluid dynamics associated with wet–dry fronts and Coriolis force.

本文介绍了一种保留结构的非交错中心方案，用于三角网格上具有干湿锋面和科里奥利力的二维浅水方程。我们方法的一个关键创新是开发了一种新的源项离散化方法，该方法利用了交错单元内网格的几何特性。这种方法有效地克服了现有中央方案的局限性，这些方案在涉及干湿锋面的配置中往往表现出缺乏良好的平衡特性。特别是，所定义的数值通量不仅利用了中心点的信息，而且利用了顶点点的信息。我们严格地证明了所提出的数值格式既保持正性又保持平衡性，这是确保模拟的物理有效性和稳定性的基本属性。为了验证我们的理论结果，我们进行了包含各种场景的综合数值实验。结果表明，该方法在精确模拟与干湿锋面和科里奥利力相关的复杂流体动力学方面具有优异的性能。

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引用次数: 0

Impact of islands on the cross-shelf transport among the Pearl River Estuary, its adjacent coast and inner shelf 岛屿对珠江口及其邻近海岸和内陆架间跨陆架运输的影响

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-09-12 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102634

Pengpeng Hu , Guang Zhang , Suan Hu , Xiuquan Zhu , Heng Zhang , Wenping Gong

Cross-shelf transport is crucial for material exchange in the estuary-coast-shelf continuum. This study employs the Coupled Ocean-Atmospheric-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to quantify the cross-shelf transport and investigate the influence of islands on the cross-shelf transport between the Pearl River Estuary (PRE), the adjacent coast and the inner shelf. A budget-based method is applied to calculate the cross-shelf volume transport across key interfaces: the estuary-coast interface (the exit between Lantau Island and Macau at the PRE mouth) and the coast-inner shelf interface (25 m isobath). The results show that the Lantau-Macau exit serves as a key transport gateway for estuary-coast exchange, with a net offshore transport of 1.97 × 10³ m³ s⁻¹ in the dry season and 2.61 × 10³ m³ s⁻¹ in the wet season, respectively. The dynamical analysis shows that, at the estuary-coast interface, the islands strengthen the onshore horizontal advection, increasing the net onshore transport by 41.37 % in the dry season, and augment the offshore barotropic gradient, increasing the net offshore transport by 422 % in the wet season. At the coast-inner shelf interface, the cross-shelf transport is onshore at 11.35 × 10³ m³ s⁻¹ during the dry season and offshore at 0.74 × 10³ m³ s⁻¹ during the wet season. During the dry season, the islands enhance both the onshore and offshore transport through increased bottom pressure torque (BPT) and nonlinear advection, respectively, with the two effects nearly balancing each other. However, in the wet season, the islands strengthen the Joint Effect of Baroclinity And Relief (JEBAR), counteracting the advection and making BPT-driven onshore transport to become dominant, thereby enhancing onshore transport by 63 % at this interface. This study has implications for land-ocean interaction research and effective coastal management.

跨大陆架运输对河口-海岸-大陆架连续体中的物质交换至关重要。本研究采用海洋-大气-波浪-泥沙耦合输运（COAWST）模式系统，对珠江口（PRE）与邻近海岸和内陆架之间的跨陆架输运进行量化，并研究岛屿对跨陆架输运的影响。采用基于预算的方法计算了关键界面的跨大陆架体积运输：河口-海岸界面（大屿山和澳门之间的出口在PRE口）和海岸-内大陆架界面（25 m等深线）。结果表明：大屿山—澳门出口是河口—海岸交换的重要运输门户，干季和湿季的净离岸运输量分别为1.97 × 103 m3 s−1和2.61 × 103 m3 s−1。动力学分析表明，在河口-海岸界面，岛屿增强了陆上水平平流，旱季增加了41.37%的陆上净输送量，增加了海上正压梯度，雨季增加了422%的海上净输送量。在海岸-内陆架界面，陆架间运输在旱季为陆上11.35 × 103 m3 s- 1，在雨季为海上0.74 × 103 m3 s- 1。在旱季，岛屿分别通过增加底部压力扭矩（BPT）和非线性平流来增强陆上和海上运输，两者的作用几乎相互平衡。然而，在雨季，岛屿加强了斜压和下沉联合效应（JEBAR），抵消了平流，使bpt驱动的陆上运输成为主导，从而在该界面增强了63%的陆上运输。该研究对陆地-海洋相互作用研究和有效的海岸管理具有指导意义。

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引用次数: 0

A novel framework for studying oceanic freshwater transports, and its application in discerning the modelled fate of freshwater around the coast of Greenland 一个研究海洋淡水运输的新框架，及其在识别格陵兰海岸周围淡水的模拟命运中的应用

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-09-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102599

Fraser William Goldsworth

In the sub-polar North Atlantic, the accumulation of fresh meltwaters from Greenland and the Arctic can impact the strength of the climatically important Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation. In this study I investigate and map out the processes that contribute to the accumulation of freshwater in four different regions around Greenland, quantifying horizontal transports of freshwater and the expansion and depletion of freshwater reservoirs by surface sources and interior mixing. Rather than using traditional freshwater budgets, whose flaws are well documented, I propose the novel use of the freshwater transformation framework and apply it to outputs from an eddy resolving coupled climate model (10 km atmosphere and 5 km ocean).

Analysing volume transports in salinity space we observe the salinification of the boundary currents surrounding Greenland as they flow from Fram Strait towards the Labrador Sea. Using the freshwater transformation framework we are able to link the salinification to mixing, sea-ice formation or the accumulation of freshwaters stored in the waters surrounding Greenland. The balance changes depending upon the region and season under question. The mixing of freshwaters is found to be stronger during wintertime than in summertime. Furthermore, mixing plays a more dominant role in the freshwater transformation budget off Southern Greenland, where sea-ice cover is low, than off Northern Greenland, where sea-ice cover is high.

在亚极地北大西洋，来自格陵兰岛和北极的新鲜融水的积累可以影响对气候具有重要意义的大西洋经向翻转环流的强度。在这项研究中，我调查并绘制了导致格陵兰周围四个不同地区淡水积累的过程，量化了淡水的水平输送以及地表水源和内部混合导致的淡水水库的扩张和枯竭。我没有使用传统的淡水预算（其缺陷已被充分证明），而是提出了淡水转换框架的新用途，并将其应用于涡解析耦合气候模式（10公里大气和5公里海洋）的输出。通过分析盐度空间的体积输送，我们观察到格陵兰岛周围的边界流从弗拉姆海峡流向拉布拉多海时的盐碱化。利用淡水转化框架，我们能够将盐碱化与混合、海冰形成或储存在格陵兰周围水域的淡水积累联系起来。平衡的变化取决于所讨论的地区和季节。人们发现，冬季淡水的混合比夏季更强烈。此外，在海冰覆盖较少的南格陵兰海域，混合在淡水转化预算中比海冰覆盖较多的北格陵兰海域起着更大的作用。

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引用次数: 0

Exploring the tsunami generation potential of major faults in the sicilian channel using 3D numerical modeling 利用三维数值模拟探讨西西里海峡主要断层的海啸发生潜力

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-09-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102625

FX Anjar Tri Laksono , Manoranjan Mishra , Fadlin , János Kovács

The Sicilian Channel, part of the central Mediterranean Sea, contains several active fault systems capable of generating tsunamis. Although historical evidence of major tsunami events exists in the region, few numerical studies have explored tsunami generation and coastal impact scenarios associated with these fault zones. This study employs 3D hydrodynamic modelling using Delft3D to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and inundation resulting from three primary fault structures: the Gela Nappe Thrust Fault (GNTF), the Sciacca Strike-Slip Fault, and the Malta Graben Normal Fault (MGNF). The simulations indicate that tsunami wave heights along the southern coast of Sicily may reach up to 6 m, with inundation distances ranging from 23 to 144 m, depending on fault parameters and local bathymetric/topographic settings. These findings underscore the critical influence of regional bathymetry and fault source mechanisms in shaping tsunami behavior in semi-enclosed basins like the Sicilian Channel. This work contributes to the understanding of wave dynamics and coastal response in tectonically active marine environments, offering valuable insights for tsunami hazard assessment and early warning system planning.

西西里海峡是地中海中部的一部分，包含几个能够产生海啸的活跃断层系统。虽然该地区存在重大海啸事件的历史证据，但很少有数值研究探讨与这些断裂带相关的海啸发生和海岸影响情景。本研究利用Delft3D三维流体动力学模型，模拟了三个主要断层结构：杰拉推覆逆冲断层（GNTF）、夏卡走滑断层和马耳他地陷正断层（MGNF）造成的海啸的产生、传播和淹没。模拟表明，西西里岛南部海岸的海啸波高可能高达6米，淹没距离在23至144米之间，具体取决于断层参数和当地的水深/地形设置。这些发现强调了区域测深和断层源机制在塑造像西西里海峡这样的半封闭盆地的海啸行为方面的关键影响。这项工作有助于理解构造活跃的海洋环境中的波浪动力学和海岸反应，为海啸危害评估和早期预警系统规划提供有价值的见解。

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引用次数: 0

Wind-driven exchange flow and inter-basin connectivity in a multi-inlet bay during hurricane and non-hurricane periods 飓风和非飓风期间多入口海湾的风驱动交换流和盆地间连通性

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-08-31 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102624

Wei Huang , Chunyan Li , Arnoldo Valle-Levinson , Daniel Gann , Michael C. Sukop , Jayantha T. Obeysekera , Tiffany Troxler

This study quantifies wind-induced water volume exchanges through bay-ocean interfaces and among sub-bays of a multiple-inlet estuary, Biscayne Bay in Florida. The bay is elongated and oriented roughly in the north-south direction. Numerical simulations were conducted for both typical and extreme (Hurricane Irma) wind conditions. Results show that wind forcing accounts for 〈 10 % of total volume exchanges during typical winds but for 〉 60 % during hurricane conditions. Further, volume transport through seven inlets and five inter-basin transects is mainly driven by the North wind component (∼ parallel to the orientation of the bay). As a result, the major outflow through inlets is related to Ekman transport driven by southerly (or northward) winds. Except for the fifth inlet, volume transport through all the other six inlets is outward under southerly wind (R²>0.65). In contrast, southward inter-basin transports are mainly driven by northerly (or southward) wind and northward transports by southerly (or northward) wind. Inter-basin volume transport is highly related with the N-S wind (R² >0.74), i.e., the northward/southward transport is in line with the southerly/northerly wind. Additionally, the forcing-response joint Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis shows that Biscayne Bay exhibits only one predominant exchange pattern, which explains > 90 % under typical winds and > 80 % during hurricane winds.

本研究量化了佛罗里达州比斯坎湾（Biscayne Bay）一个多入口河口的海湾-海洋界面和子海湾之间的风致水量交换。海湾呈细长状，大致面向南北方向。数值模拟了典型和极端（飓风Irma）风条件。结果表明，在典型风条件下，风强迫占总体积交换的10%以下，而在飓风条件下，风强迫占60%以上。此外，通过七个入口和五个盆地间横断面的体积运输主要由北风分量驱动（与海湾方向平行）。因此，通过入口的主要流出与南风（或北风）驱动的Ekman运输有关。除第5进气道外，其余6个进气道在南风条件下均为向外输送（R2>0.65）。南向的盆地间运输主要由北风（或南风）驱动，向北的盆地间运输主要由南风（或北风）驱动。盆地间体积输送与南南风高度相关（R2 >0.74），即向北/向南输送与南北风一致。此外，强迫-响应联合经验正交函数（EOF）分析表明，比斯坎湾仅表现出一种主要的交换模式，在典型风和飓风中分别解释了90%和80%。

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引用次数: 0

The importance of free infragravity waves in the North Sea: Insights from field observations and unstructured SWAN modelling 北海自由次重力波的重要性：来自野外观测和非结构化SWAN模型的见解

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-08-25 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102619

Gal Akrish , Ad Reniers , Dirk Rijnsdorp , Marcel Zijlema , Jantien Rutten , Marion Tissier

This study examines the importance of free infragravity (FIG) waves in the North Sea using a recent collection of wave measurements and a newly developed unstructured SWAN model. The measurements include new observations of infragravity waves at offshore (30–40 m water depth) and nearshore (10–20 m water depth) locations in the southern North Sea. These observations serve as the basis for model optimization and verification. Good agreement is obtained between model predictions and measurements during two recent storm periods, including severe storms with unusual wind directions and high wind speeds (e.g., “Storm Babet”). Model investigation along the coasts of Belgium and the Netherlands demonstrated a strong dependence between nearshore FIG conditions (i.e., energy intensity and sources) and storm characteristics (i.e., alongshore wind pattern and storm track). Specifically, several storms have demonstrated significant contributions of FIG energy originating from remote sources (e.g., the coasts of UK and Denmark). This suggests that nearshore FIG conditions in the North Sea cannot be determined based on the local sea-swell conditions alone and may be significantly underestimated if non-local contributions are ignored. Finally, modelled and measured results at nearshore locations along the Dutch coast revealed that under storm conditions FIG energy can be an order of magnitude higher than energy due to bound infragravity (BIG) waves. This result, augmented with estimated ratios of free and forced infragravity energy at the shoreline, emphasizes the necessity of considering the FIG waves as an integral part of coastal safety assessments along the coasts of the North Sea.

本研究利用最近收集的波浪测量数据和新开发的非结构化SWAN模型，检验了自由次重力波（FIG）在北海的重要性。这些测量包括对北海南部近海（30-40米水深）和近岸（10-20米水深）的次重力波的新观测。这些观测结果是模型优化和验证的基础。在最近的两个风暴期间，模式预测和测量结果非常吻合，包括具有不寻常风向和高风速的强风暴（例如“风暴巴贝特”）。沿着比利时和荷兰海岸的模式调查表明，近岸FIG条件（即能量强度和来源）与风暴特征（即沿岸风型和风暴路径）之间存在很强的依赖性。具体来说，一些风暴已经证明了来自偏远地区（例如，英国和丹麦海岸）的FIG能量的重要贡献。这表明，北海近岸的FIG条件不能仅根据当地的海浪条件来确定，如果忽略非当地的贡献，可能会大大低估。最后，在荷兰海岸近岸地区的模拟和测量结果表明，在风暴条件下，FIG能量可能比束缚次重力波（BIG）能量高一个数量级。这一结果，加上海岸线上自由和强制亚重力能的估计比例，强调了将FIG波作为北海沿岸海岸安全评估的一个组成部分的必要性。

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引用次数: 0

The role of driving forces in sediment transport processes in an upwelling-driven continental shelf 上升流驱动的大陆架沉积物输运过程中驱动力的作用

IF 2.9 3区地球科学 Q2 METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES

Ocean Modelling

Pub Date : 2025-08-21 DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102620

Marili Viitak , Rita Nolasco , Nicolás Villacieros-Robineau , Paulo A. Silva , Carmen G. Castro , Jesús Dubert

Sediment transport in the continental shelf regions affects many interdisciplinary problems, including ecological and social issues. Understanding the underlying processes influencing sediment transport is essential for coastal management, distribution of nutrients, pollutants and abundance of benthic flora and fauna, which can impact the entire food chain in the marine ecosystem. The present work aims to enhance our understanding of the spatial and temporal variability of sediment transport in the upwelling affected continental shelves. A state-of-the-art 3D oceanic numerical model CROCO (v1.0) was used to simulate the suspended sediment transport on NW Iberian Peninsula continental shelf, considering an entire annual cycle from November 2008 to December 2009. The sediment transport patterns were influenced by the seasonality of the shelf current and wave dynamics. While low sediment movement was observed during spring and summer, considerable transport could be seen from mid-autumn and winter, associated with storms. The shelf circulation, mainly driven in response to atmospheric forcing, determined the transport direction, while wave energy regulated the re-suspended sediment mass. Storm-driven upwelling and downwelling events predominantly promoted sediment transport southward and northward through the bottom boundary layer, respectively. The morphological features of the shelf and the frontal dynamics between the oceanic and fresh water in the mid-and inner shelf, modulated by upwelling and downwelling, shaped the suspended sediment transport across and along the water column. In the northern region of the study area, the simulated shelf-scale near-bottom eddies induced transport pathways to the open ocean.

大陆架区域的泥沙运移影响着许多跨学科的问题，包括生态和社会问题。了解影响沉积物运输的潜在过程对于沿海管理、营养物分布、污染物和底栖动植物丰富度至关重要，这可能影响海洋生态系统中的整个食物链。本研究旨在提高我们对受上升流影响的大陆架沉积物输运时空变异性的认识。利用三维海洋数值模型CROCO （v1.0）模拟了伊比利亚半岛西北大陆架的悬沙输运，考虑了2008年11月至2009年12月的整个年周期。沉积物输运模式受陆架洋流和波浪动力的季节性影响。春季和夏季沉积物运动较少，而秋季和冬季则出现了大量与风暴有关的输沙。主要受大气强迫驱动的陆架环流决定了输运方向，波能调节了再悬质。风暴驱动的上升流和下升流事件主要促进沉积物分别通过底部边界层向南和向北运移。陆架的形态特征以及陆架中部和内部海洋与淡水的锋面动力学，在上升流和下升流的调节下，决定了悬浮物在水柱上和水柱上的运移。在研究区北部，模拟的陆架尺度近底涡流诱导了向公海的运输路径。

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引用次数: 0